98-03 Dodge Durango Front Wheel Bearing Hub How to Replace Removal and Install

How to remove and replace the front wheel hub / front wheel bearing. 98-03 Dodge Durango. 2wd 4wd 4x4. Diy removal and installation.

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Hey guys: Not sure if it's different between years/trim, but it seems that most Durango caliper bolts do in fact have the torx bit head like I used in the video. Sometimes it's possible that other owners in the past replace hardware with different sized stuff, so that's also a possibility. Please be aware that yours may be different!

[@skyflaky]

Guns&Cars dude uu shudda jst put the fccn wheel back on! Lmao. Uu look stupid. I actually cracking up watching ur video. Can’t believed uu posted shit like this. Lol js

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Can't believe you don't know how to spell the simplest words correctly...

[@xdsilenceclipsyt4280]

It is a t45 torx

[@tylerschaub1791]

Lock in the 4X4 axle nut comes off way easier

[@spenserdeferbrache5756]

If you tern the wheel you can get to the bolts in the back better

[@Paul-rx2ov]

old cv joint main castle nut is 300lbs of torque on a small car ford excorts the 23mm nut

[@dragone236]

Thanks for posting this! You saved me a huge headache removing my caliper.

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

👍

[@chasingwaves11]

Lol yeah dodge made a wicked stupid design on those Slid Pins!! They are so common to get stripped out or crossed threaded into the Knuckles ! 🤦🏽‍♂️🤦🏽‍♂️🤦🏽‍♂️ fucking retarded design by Dodge!!

[@cameronhiggins5040]

If i know I'm taking my axel nut off I loosen it while the wheel is on and on the ground with the weight of the truck to help me break it... I've always done it this way

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

This one was so tight I think I would have spun the tire on the ground if I did that lol.

[@danielbellos9391]

Turn on the 4x4 spray with WD or Blaster

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

The 4x4 doesn't work lol 😭

[@geneberger4270]

Bro...leave the break rotor on..stick a screw driver in one of the slots in the rotor..then you can crack it free easy monery

[@FSAUDIOGUY]

Those hub nuts can be a mother after years of corrosion and heat, its like they weld together. I periodically get under my truck with a can of lubricant and hit everything with bolts from front to back. It pays off when its time to do major work. Good job on the work!

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Thank you man, and that's not a bad idea.

[@supercancerman1959]

That was a great video. Thanks for the help. I'm a tired old man but I'm gonna try and replace these myself.

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Powerful impact gun will really help to get the axle nut off.

[@supercancerman1959]

@@BuckeyeBallistics Thanks, another question...I'm assuming my issue is front hub-bearing but not sure what side. I jacked it up and spun both sides by hand and couldn't tell. I have checked out the front and rear diff. & transfer case, no issues. How can I test to see which side bearing is bad? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

@@supercancerman1959 Spin it and listen as you did, or grab the tire and shake/twist it back and forth, left and right, top to bottom to see if it has play. But doing this will also let the wheel/tire flop around if there is a bad ball joint or other component to the front suspension geometry that'a bad, so watch those and be sure that it's not one of those before assuming bearing. Other than that, stick your head out the window and do a bunch of turns in a big empty parking lot and listen, then have someone else drive and stick your head out the other side to find which side it is.

[@angelahighwolf]

Dude, put a jack under under that wrench on the axle nut.

[@c-lomx9008]

Thank you for a real video no editing shit this is real no easy make believe shit this is the real deal.

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Why thank you! I try to show the struggles in case my viewers run into the same problems, so they know how to handle them. Believe it or not I have been criticized for this approach before, so it's nice to hear that you appreciate it. Thanks for watching!

[@robertcasianosr]

Where is the front ABS sensors located on/near the hub?

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Typically they would be on the back or side of the hub, but mine for example doesn't have abs...

[@blackhawkxlh102]

Awesome job with that video my friend very informative and detailed thank you very much that's going to help me with doing the exact same procedure

[@clintpeterson9028]

Thanks for video I got one to do but bearing locked up and wheel came off b lot more fun

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Wow, good luck man.

[@Paul-rx2ov]

use a thick piece of pipe about 2' long called a cheater bar

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

I guess you missed the part where I did exactly that?

[@jakrizmo4483]

My Dakota has the exact same settup except for the Pin, dont know why but 2 different videos is what I had to use to help me through this 😂😂👍

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Hmmm. Well at least I helped!

[@codyschwoch5451]

And my dude if you turn your wheel, it’ll be a hell of a lot more clearance for you to take out your bolts from the hub assembly except for your upper one is a pain in the ass

[@supercancerman1959]

Ok, some more advice needed...As you suggested had a friend drive the truck around in circles and wasn't able to diagnose which wheel bearing was grinding. So I guessed and pulled the drivers side. It came off pretty easy I think overnight soaking and several squirts of BP did the trick. So after I get the hub off the thing doesn't have any slop to it and when I spin it by hand it doesn't grind. So...I move to the passenger side and pull it. Same result. So I'm going to obviously replace both sides, just wondering is it possible that the bearing(s) is shot but doesn't have any slop to it or grinding when spinning on the bench, by hand. I guess my worry is maybe I misdiagnosed the whole mess and I'll replace both hubs for 300+ and still have the grinding in the front end. That said both had moisture and red-rust colored liquid with no grease in the cups whatsoever. Clairvoyant anyone???? Tks in advance? Wally

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

If it's dry in there, no grease on the bearings, then it's going to make some noise. Mine did the same thing, only made noise with the weight of the vehicle on it. Other than that, could be in the front diff/transfer case if it's a 4x4.

[@supercancerman1959]

@@BuckeyeBallistics Ok, thanks thats what I was thinking. Guess I'll replace both bearing hubs and then I'll have an answer, In the process of diagnosing the original problem I drained both differentials and transfer case and replaced the fluid. So I guess its the hubs. I'll let you know as soon as it stops raining and I can get back to it.

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

@@supercancerman1959 Without hearing it myself, that would be my guess.

[@mitchlehammers1883]

saftywise concrete blocks are not safe and prone to sudden failure with no warning, i would never use one for support when working under or partly under a vehicle. just saying.

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

I wasn't under it so I wasn't that worried about it. I do need to invest in larger jack stands for my trucks though, because the ones I have are too small.

[@paulunderwood8960]

Was your hub bearing making a thud sound from time to time....i have a 2002 Durango....and thats what im experiencing....changed out rack n pinion...inner and outer tie rods....brakes and shocks...

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

I've changed out a lot of wheel bearings/hubs and I can't say that I've ever heard one "thud," though they can make various noises when they are worn. I've heard grinding, whirring, clicking, and even what sounded like a dirtbike accelerating because one was so dry. If your hub is making a thud sound, then it's about to fall apart lol. I just recently made a short clip about how to check if they are bad: kzbin.infoSp6-swrvrT0?feature=share

[@paulunderwood8960]

Yeah you know I say thud a-poppin loud popping sound you can feel it through the steering wheel but anyway I'm rebuilding the whole front end everything brand new so it don't matter... I guess you could even describe it as a loud pop... I'm changing the CV axles upper and lower control arm both sides rotors hub bearing assembly calipers and shocks and rack and pinion so it'll all be brand-new shortly

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

My best guess would be a ball joint but it's hard to tell without actually driving and hearing it for myself in person.

[@paulunderwood8960]

@@BuckeyeBallistics yep thought about those to... but they come on the new on upper and lower control arms.... but we're pretty positive that the movement is coming from where the CV axle goes through the hub bearing assembly

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

If you remember after the parts are installed, update me because I would be curious to know what you find.

[@thatdudeinblack8707]

Was your old wheel bearing making a clicking noise?

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

If I remember correctly, it was making a whirring/grinding sound. But I actually just replaced the other side finally just a few weeks ago and it (passenger side) was making a clicking/grinding sound when I would go around a slight left hand corner at the right speed. I have also heard them sound like a freaking motorbike when they are dried up, and even clicking/marbles rolling around sound. It's real easy to check them- I just posted a "short" a few weeks ago showing how to check the bearing (on the durango actually). Check it out...

[@thatdudeinblack8707]

@@BuckeyeBallistics right on brother! My driverside is making a clicking noise that's why i asked. Im getting ready to buy some mevotech ones. I'll check it out for sure!

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

If not the bearing then most likely the axle (if it's a 4x4). That is the common tell-tale sign of a failing axle- clicking. But a bearing can do it too...

[@Paul-rx2ov]

most the time I've broke a couple breaker bars the best I've used was a 1/2 " drive good rachet no chrome alloy like a older rachet with no chrome alloy

[@JacobEcret]

I use a dewalt 1/2 inch impact for the axle nut

[@JacobEcret]

It’s got a couple thousand foot pound of torque

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

I didn't have an impact at the time of this video, and yeah the impact I have now still wouldn't take it off lol.

[@wheeliesforlife5511]

Just to let you know I'm not sure if your car has it but if you pop out the center cap and loosen it while the wheel is on it that's what I did to my Durango

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

This one was so tight it would have spun the tire on the ground (have done it before). At that point you need someone to stand on the brake for you. But I often work alone and don't have the option of help like that, so I have to improvise...

[@scdrummer07]

Awesome video. Plan on doing my 2000 dakota 4wd today. Not looking forward to it

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Lol yeah, hopefully yours goes a little smoother for yah.

[@JacobEcret]

It’s actually not that hard

[@JacobEcret]

Guns&Cars mine was born and raised in Arizona, got the whole job done in about 45 min

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

With your fancy power tools lol.

[@JacobEcret]

Guns&Cars well.. yes. But I do have the advantage of no rust.

[@michaelparker8669]

how long did it take you to do this

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

2-3 hours. When everything goes smoothly I can have one in and out in about an hour...

[@dillankori9023]

The t45 is normally what it comes with from the factory on the brake caliper..

[@AllHailSAHtan]

Invest in a torch

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

🤔

[@johnwitt8217]

Not good to heat the spindle..just saying

[@w829l5]

I know this video was posted 2 years ago. If you have this same issue with the axle nut use your jack

[@chankludo1]

If you have the time to wait, pre-soak those rusty bolts for 1-3 days. Every minute helps.

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

You aren't wrong. I've soaked some overnight that I absolutely couldn't get after a 20min application and they came right out the next day.

[@joevanatta1587]

T45 on the caliber

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Thanks

[@leonardradley52]

Is it not possible to replace just the bearing? I have 2002 Durango with 2wd 5.9l Or is it the whole assembly

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Typically it's the whole assembly, but I *have* seen people replace just the bearing before if you can find just the bearing and seal somewhere. But for the cost of the bearing and seal and time/effort to replace it, it's better (for most) to just replace the whole untit- especially if it has abs, because then you aren't putting new bearings with an old speed sensor that might fail later down the road. Also, depending on how bad the bearings are, the whole thing might be trash anyway.

[@chasingwaves11]

Hey man thanks for the video! Tomorrow I have to replace both sides , wheel bearings are starting to hum when taken corners.. GUYs !! Here is a wicked helpful tip !! For those back yard Mechanics or even repairs on the side of the road or your nearest Walmart lol 😂 wink wink haha … Breaking that Axle nut free ! Guys break the Nut free when the truck is on the ground still with the tire on with the Engine weight !! It makes life so much easier !!! I can’t stress enough that some people get there ass kicked trying to get that nut off if they don’t have a 1/2 or 1” air gun with them .. I hope I save or help someone out with this helpful tip !! I may be a surfer but I’m also a diesel mechanic my Farther was a mechanic so I was pretty much a grease Monkey the day I was born haha 😆 .. Stay rad ! 🤘🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

If yours is as tight as mine was, it will spin the tire on pavement (ask me how I know). In such a scenario, you will have no choice but to take the tire off and chain it up.

[@petrocksgarage]

@@BuckeyeBallistics, an alternate method is before removing the caliper & rotor, stick a decent thickness (sacrificial) screw driver in the fins inside the rotor. When you turn the nut the rotor/hub will spin until the screw driver comes in contact with the caliper mount and stop the rotor/hub from turning. You want the shaft of the screw driver to come in contact with the caliper, not the plastic handle of course. It will lock it in place so you can really get some force on the breaker bar to break the nut loose. The distance between the outer diameter of the rotor and the caliper is pretty small so the screw driver may only bend a little if at all. Nothing near the almost 90 degrees like the long extension used in this video (btw, wow!). The same technique works for torquing the nut back down at the end. Hope that helps someone.

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

If it's tight enough as I discussed above, I would be concerned about cracking the rotor. You may think that's not possible, but I've seen it happen.

[@petrocksgarage]

@@BuckeyeBallistics, I would think the screw driver would bend way before that would happen. Screw driver metal is not as tough as brake rotor metal. Rotors withstand considerable forces during braking, so they are pretty strong. But yeah, anythings possible (e.g. if the rotor was already cracked from excessive heat).

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Well it would depend on the size of the screwdriver and the quality of the rotor. The fins you would jam the screwdriver into are usually much thinner than the rotor itself. In general yeah it should be fine and it's a good tip, but you never know because not all rotors are created equal. There has been a problem lately with cheap knock off rotors comming in from China being sold as something of higher quality. I have seen the aftermath of some of these comming apart...

[@Paul-rx2ov]

my 2002 has 7mm hex head bolts but one bad thing is not let your friends or son take the two pin guide bolts out without watching them because they have no knowledge of cross threading or not using there fingers to put them back in and wiggle the caliper slightly till you at least get 2 or three or more twist while you know for a fact they started threading or you'll have problems finding a oversize bolt that cost 25 bolt that retreads the stripped treads.

[@chvydrptop]

The bolt on the 1st gen durango's are hex bit NOT torque bits. You can jamb a torque in there and it might work, but your going to damage the bolt eventually.

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

I made that clear in the video... I said "allen type head", like an allen wrench, which is hex, and even showed it. I made it clear that I was improvising. Also, if you read my pinned comment, some or most of them do have the torx head, and not hex. Like I said in the video, sometimes new components come with new hardware. The truck might come with hex or torx, but then if someone replaces the caliper down the road with new hardware and pins, it may come with a different head. So anybody out there could run into anything in reality. So regardless of which kind you encounter, I made it clear that you should use the correct one if you can....

[@TheBuckwoody]

Man I tried a four foot breaker bar and that hub nut wouldnt budge just sprayed more junk on it and used 1400 foot lb impact in the end.

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Hell yeah lol

[@tylerrobertson9729]

For those who go through hubs constantly avoid cost efficient hubs moog or timken have good warranty and reliability as well. If you over torque the axle/spindle nut you will go through bearings fast as well. This is obvious but make sure your ball joints are good before finishing... having your wheel seperate isn't a fun experience. lol @Guns&Cars was equipped with the knowledge as it seems

[@chankludo1]

The axle seals cost 20 bux each, for this vehicle.

[@tylerpreston8720]

I can't find where to buy those hub bolts

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

The mounting bolts?

[@tylerpreston8720]

@@BuckeyeBallistics yes

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

@@tylerpreston8720 Typically hardware stores like lowes and home depot won't carry automotive sized bolts, because they are built to stronger standards than what they carry. You will either have to get them at an auto parts store, or order them from a Dodge dealer; they will be expensive from the dealer.

[@tylerpreston8720]

@@BuckeyeBallistics I really just don't know what part number the bolts are or what they're called. All the auto parts stores at check they only sell the bolts with the hub

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

@@tylerpreston8720 Hardware and fasteners like that may not have a part number. But if they do, your local Dodge dealer will have it. Just call the dealer and ask for the parts department. Then ask them for the part number. If you're trying to order it by the part number, then it's going to be expensive whether you buy it from a dealer or not, so might as well buy it from them at that point. If you want cheap bolts, take one to a hardware store and find out what thread/pitch it is with their check tools, then measure the length, and now you know what bolt you need. What thread is it and how long, that's all you need. Those bolts have to be strong so they don't break off; you don't want your hub comming apart at 80mph or when you hit a pothole. So that's why the hardware store may not carry the size you need, but the autoparts store may. Other than that, you'll just have to buckle and pay full price from the dealer, $5-$10 per bolt.

[@captainpencil5761]

Clockwise or counterclock wise to loosen bearing nuts?

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Counter? Didn't you see me jumping on the bar? Lol, don't skip the video and then ask questions that were answered in the video...

[@captainpencil5761]

@@BuckeyeBallistics not the axle nut. At 10:13

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Everything is counter clockwise- lefty loosey, righty tighty. Usually the reverse thread crap is exhuast stud/engine components.

[@ozzy5368]

You never reinstalled the caliper spring thingie!

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

You're right, I forgot! 1000 miles later, still works fine without it! I think I showed how I reinstalled it in my brake video if anyone needs to see.

[@tylerrobertson9729]

It was only a Anti-rattle clip lol

[@danahardy8176]

Next time use a torch to heat the axle but makes the job a lot easier

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

If I had one at the time I would have...

[@TheDragonsDogma]

First thing I learned when getting my degree was metal on metal is a huge no no lol

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Yeah, generally doesn't work out too well lol

[@popeye6996776]

This guy makes this look hard, I just did it and its not that hard OMG...

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Um, what part? Cause I never said it was hard. I try to be thorough and discuss anything one might run into, especially for the unsuspecting first timer trying to do it themselves. And sometimes axle nuts come off easy as shit with a standard ratchet, and sometimes you snap a freakin breaker bar off on them. I've removed a few dozen axle nuts in the past decade, how about you? If you're not referring to any of the afore mentioned, please enlighten me...

[@tylerrobertson9729]

About 2 years ago my bango looked rusted bad like that now here I sit after 10,000 this year in maintenance.. 0-0 Oh well runs good drives good ;-;

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

$10,000? Please tell me that's a typo, because you could've bought 3-4 of them for that.

[@tylerrobertson9729]

@@BuckeyeBallistics It's the sad truth I'm afraid lol Oh well might as well throw a 392 in it next lol

[@tylerrobertson9729]

Last night I rebuilt a wheel hub press in bearing that failed early Lol Don't let the "mechanics" tell you that you can't rebuild just the bearing. I'm 22 years old and class is in session lol

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

You can rebuild them with the proper tools, but it's a pain. I'm about to do a press fit bearing on our Corolla, hope my bearing driver will get it in there because I don't have a press. Gonna throw it in the freezer first.

[@tylerrobertson9729]

@@BuckeyeBallistics I used a pry bar and your video length worth of patience the freezer makes everything better. I know a lady in my area selling her bango for 600 bucks because it is running poor lol I just hate to steal it it hurts xD There is no way I will sell my truck for what people want for them. Not after my dedication to the speedy grocery gas gulper to make sure it's heart beats better than mine. LOL

[@angelahighwolf]

You poor thing. I know exactly how it goes. Why does fixing my car always have to involve pain?? LOL

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

Because that is our punishment for not buying a new vehicle, as is our intended designation per the big 3...

[@jeffreypugh5191]

You would have been better off breaking the big nut before you took the break off.

[@sheakerman9285]

Your brick has no strength being used like that

[@johnwitt8217]

Next time loosen your axle nut before you Jack it up..lug nut

[@BuckeyeBallistics]

As tight as that one was the tire would have just spun, unless you had a helper to stand on the brake...

[@codyschwoch5451]

My dude called a rotor caliper lmfao