2005 4Runner Head Rebuild and Timing Belt Replacement - Part 1 of 4 | 2UZ-FE 4.7L V8

[@wille8266]

This video was a life saver. Used for removing/replacing heads on 2003 Sequoia after a broken timing belt at highway speed. Vehicle has approx 340k mi. Here is what I learned for those attempting. First, I found that there are three phases to this work. 1. Tear down and make parts list. 2. Source all parts and prep work. 3. Re assemble. If you are going to do this you need proper tools. All worth it given the money you will save. A necessity to make the job go well. Major parts replaced: remanufactured heads sourced (allied motor parts), new head bolts, full Toyota gasket kit as Joey mentioned plus crank front seal, reman starter since already in there, factory timing belt w pulleys and tensioner plus fan bracket, sent fuel injectors off for service as suggested (sent to Witch Hunter Performance at $23/ea), new TRQ performance coils from 1A Auto for around $230 (kept a couple of the best looking original factory ones as backups though most were cracking w split rubber boots), new Denso plugs and radiator w hoses, new factory T stat and the two upstream o2 sensors since already there. Replace any vacuum and fuel/evap hoses that look like they need it. Tools/Supplies: need a large and small torque wrench (started with just a large one and ended up snapping a cam bolt). Need a metric tap and die set. Chase all threads in aluminum block especially at cam bolts. Chase w tap and a bit of WD-40. That with a small torque wrench turned the cam bolts into an enjoyable pet of this exercise (after breaking one as mentioned). Also needed to do some thread repair at exhaust connection. Full 1/4”, 1/2” and 3/4” ratchet sets with extension and a swivel head, metric open end wrench set, heat gun made loosening stuck rubber hoses a breeze including installing new hoses to get over connections, compressor and air chuck for blowing off things as well as a a good clean shop vac especially when keeping piston/ heads clean, telescoping magnet will be your best friend in this project, speaking a friends a second hand will be needed for removing/reinstalling heads and intake manifold assembly (great time for family to get involved :)), Assortment of supplies: Grease w a small paint brush to apply to cam areas and seals, silicon grease for rubber o rings, dielectric grease for electrical connections, anti seize, blue loctite (for timing belt tensioner bolt), PB Blaster or equivalent to pre soak stuck nuts/bolts, couple cans of TB cleaner for TB and misc cleaning, Mass Airflow cleaner for MAF and sensitive electrical areas, carb cleaner for non sensitive area cleaning, citrus degreaser for general cleaning of parts before reassembly (during prep phase), Toyota factory form in place gasket (FIPG), Toyota factory red coolant (2 gal and then buy 2 gal of distilled to mix in bucket and then fill), propane torch to help unstick stubborn bolts, breaker bar or cheater pipe to use over ratchet handles, I am of the opinion the SST may be worth it for the crank bolt removal (the wood worked but may have just been easier to source proper tool online, medicine syringe or similar for squirting oil over cams before replacing covers to avoid dry start up (in addition to greasing the journals and wiping the cylinder walls w oil), obtain factory service manual which was a handy reference in addition to these videos, box of rubber gloves, two rolls of paper shop towels, alcohol wipes for cleaning parts prior to install, and roll of craft paper to line tables and floor area, rechargeable headlamp or lots of spare batteries, toothpicks and q tips for small detail work, plugs/caps for trans line to radiator (from auto parts store). Oil drain pan and funnel as well as 5 gal bucket for coolant, Zip ties to hang wiring harness up and out of the way and as needed here and there. Process: Create a suitable work space with ample LED lighting and set up a couple of folding tables with craft paper and a pen for taking notes. Place cardboard under vehicle to catch drips and cushion you (wish i had a crawler and a floor that would allow one to roll :), Place parts on table in the order they come off and label them, can store things under the tables too, also on the table closest to truck layout all of your tools and keep them in this area. Also have a chair. Set up a cleaning station w hose and GOJO for what seemed like a hundred hand cleanings as well as part washing. I found removing the heads with exhaust header worked fine without having to remove all those bolts in tight area. Once off can unbolt exhaust headers and heat shields more easily and reinstall to replacement heads prior to install (grab help for this). Result: Started up nicely after a bit of time for fuel rails to fill. Runs like a top! Proves this engine (at least pre VVti) can break a timing belt without catastrophic damage. Pistons are dished at valves to maybe prevent contact? Spun the cams slowly at top dead center and confirmed no contact of valves to pistons (remove plugs to make this easier), original heads showed no signs of damage but figured at 340k best to just replace anyway and did find that head and exhaust manifold gaskets were nearing the end of their lives anyway. Block and pistons looked fantastic with original honing still visible. Interesting to not that for the life of me i could not get factory belt marking to match perfectly the timing marks on both cam pulleys as well as crank at same time. Confirmed that it was the right factory belt i was given. After a bunch of research i found that the belt markings are inconsequential and what really matters is the TIMING MARKS ON CAMS AND CRANK. With arrows pointing to front of vehicle get the belt on with the tensioner loosened w holding pin in it. This allows for slack. When you get it where you think it is good tighten tensioner and pull pin. Confirm that the notch cams match the timing line and the notch in crank matches the nub on oil pump body as video shows. Had to remove tensioner 3 times, recompress in vice and put pin back in then repeat. Once I got close the last time I ended up sneaking a zip tie around both cam pulleys to keep it from jumping and then released tensioner for last time and all marks lined up. Rotated crank two times as suggested to verify and it was finally perfect. Keep messing with this until you get it right. All in i was $4,500 in parts and 3 1/2 weeks working on it as i could. Helped having two other cars in household to share the duties of getting everyone to school and work. Guess you could rent a vehicle if needed. Glad it is all over but definitely better than $10k and 8 weeks I was quoted at Toyota dealership. Buying new or used replacement vehicle in this market did not end up being feasible so decided to attack this project. Hopefully good for a few more years with this beast. Thanks again to 9 to 5 escape for filming and best of luck to others taking this on. Also, plan on a break in oil/filter change around 500 mi or so after the work. These are great motors/rigs and worthy of the effort. Peace!

[@9to5Escape]

Wow you ended up replacing a lot more parts than I did! Glad it went well and glad to be able to help with the job! The burnt valve that I had was quoted at $3k to fix for one head but I ended up spending $1.5k in parts and was able to rebuild both heads and replace a lot of parts for half the price.

[@9to5Escape]

All in all your Sequoia will last you many years after all the hard work.

[@wille8266]

@@9to5Escape that’s the hope! My 14 year old son helped w project and this will be his to get through high school. Helped me rationalize the expense knowing we needed to get another 5 years out of it.

[@wille8266]

@@9to5Escape Update after 2,000 mi on the above rebuild. Motor runs great but smokes a bit. At 340,000 mi I should have also gone ahead and done the rings and bearings. A super tight new or redone heads on high mileage bottom end can pull oil past the old rings. Not sure what the cutoff is off between head job only versus head job + rings and bearings. Maybe 200k mi and above it would be worth a more complete rebuild.

[@9to5Escape]

@@wille8266 I haven't had any smoke but I only had 190k on the engine.

[@Kiss__Kiss]

Very Nice!!! I am here for these vids, as I have two 4.7L 2UZ-FE vehicles!!!

[@FASTECAUTO]

Thanks for making this video... isn't easy man.

[@Kiss__Kiss]

May I make a suggestion? Instead of saying Left, or Right.. Just say, Driver, Or Passenger Side (Kind of like when you go wheelin'), That way people don't ask, or think, is that standing in front of the vehicle? or is that while you are in the driver seat? Awesome Job!!! Though, guys!!!

[@9to5Escape]

Noted. Thanks for the feedback! The reason why I said left vs right is because a lot of the parts reference left vs right (cams, timing belt, exhaust manifold gasket, head gasket, etc.).

[@Kiss__Kiss]

@@9to5Escape You are absolutely correct about that.. But for someone learning and whatnot, it may be better, visually to orient them/us that way.. Just a thought... Thanks for your patience in tearing her apart.. I am sure in the end, she will be as good as NEW!!!! :)

[@classic-kool]

Not a job for anyone but an expert...........I'm jealous of your knowledge and skills LoL!!!

[@9to5Escape]

Honestly not an expert. With a lot of research and patience it wasn't too bad.

[@GiulioSciorio]

Excellent! Thanks so much for going through the trouble of recording video while you two were working on the engine. How are you keeping track of what hoses goes where? Also, perhaps I missed it, the other fella doing the work - is he friend or pro or both? Looking forward to the other parts.

[@9to5Escape]

No problem. I had trouble finding any video references for removing the heads on the 2UZ-FE so I decided to make my own. Recording the video and taking lots of pictures helped with putting it all back together by watching it in reverse. If you can see in the video, I also used green painters tape to mark certain electrical connectors, hoses, and pipes to keep track. My helper was my dad who is just another DIY garage mechanic with no professional experience.

[@Isaac-lo7yc]

@@9to5Escape Do you know how many hours labor are for ths job ???

[@9to5Escape]

@@Isaac-lo7yc If I had to guess probably somewhere in the 40-60 hour range.

[@izzyc.4746]

Just subscribed love the video best video out there❤️

[@avishaigebler8084]

This was such a helpful video - thank you! I wish I had paid more attention to your vacuum line walkthrough because now I’m left trying to reattach the vacuum hose that goes under the intake manifold. (The one you mention at 21:12). Any idea if I can reattach it to the intake manifold without having to take off the whole manifold?

[@9to5Escape]

Did you detach the vacuum line from the manifold? I'm not sure where that line attaches to the manifold, but it's somewhere underneath. I didn't take the line off of the manifold.

[@avishaigebler8084]

@@9to5Escape It turns out that it can be reattached even after the intake manifold is bolted back in! For anyone else who makes the same mistake I did, It's little tricky, but doable with a flexible grip and long-nosed pliers. (I detached it from the manifold while changing out my starter, and forgot to reattach.)

[@9to5Escape]

@@avishaigebler8084 Good to know! Sounds like brain surgery.

[@nickschuldt9229]

I'm having trouble getting the back part of the intake manifold up. I disconnected all hoses and wires and removed all the nuts and bolts. Is there anything special on the back side of the housing that I'm missing?

[@9to5Escape]

Make 100% sure you got all the bolts. Does it move or wiggle? Have you tried prying from the front a bit? There shouldn't be anything else other than the bolts holding it down.

[@TheFrancsBand]

Damn, you're lucky none of the bolts, brackets, or lines are rusty. I'm in NJ and have a 4uzfe in a 2000 Tundra and no way I'd try that. I'd be snapping bolts left and right...roughly where'd you get the 4Runner?

[@9to5Escape]

Didn't have any issues with stuck or rusted parts. The car has been in Arizona its whole life.

[@kennethdonovan_nm]

First off, thank you for the videos. I am about to embark on this journey on my 2003 V8 4th gen. Can you provide a link to the head gasket kit you purchased? Also what other components did you replace along the way aside from the timing belt, water pump which I completed last year. any special tools I should purchase before hand? Thanks again

[@9to5Escape]

Hello! Good luck with the teardown! Toyota sells a gasket kit (04112-50442) that includes all of the gaskets you need that are not replaceable. I replaced the timing belt, drive belt, all gaskets included in the kit I mentioned, idler pulley, tensioner pulley, drive belt tensioner, water pump, thermostat. If you look at the description in the video there is a link to a kit. I would suggest investing in some articulating sockets because some nuts and bolts are tough to get to, a very large torque wrench for the crank pulley bolt, and some sort of pulley remover tool to remove the crank pulley bolt. Let us know if you have any more questions!

[@kennethdonovan_nm]

@@9to5Escape Thanks so much. I noticed there are a few nuts/bolts/parts that are not re-usable. I noted: exhaust nuts and maybe studs, water bypass tube that you cut, head bolts. Are there any others? I am just trying to get everything ordered to avoid delays once I tear into it. Also on the heads, what did you have the machine shop do? Just re-surface? Did you remove the cams before sending them in? Thanks again.

[@9to5Escape]

@@kennethdonovan_nm Exhaust studs are fine unless the threads are shot. Pretty much all of the gaskets need to be replaced. The machine shop check the tolerances on the valves, cleaned/painted the heads, and refinished the mating surface. I put the cams back into the heads when giving it to the shop so they could check tolerances.

[@FurryKeidran98]

I'm removing the intake manifold on my uncle's 4runner (05, V8) and I can't seem to get a vacuum hose off of the back of the lower intake manifold. You can see the top of the diaphragm the hose is attached to at 20:30, when you point out the rearmost intake bolt on the passenger side. Did that hose just slip off for you? Or did you take it off and I've missed it every time I watched? Thank you for the video either way!

[@9to5Escape]

If you're talking about that hard rigid hose with the two clamps I did not remove that one. The only vacuum lines I removed were the ones on top that slip off.

[@9to5Escape]

Isn't that part of the fuel line?

[@9to5Escape]

Yeah that's part of the fuel line. You don't need to remove that. That all comes out with the intake manifold.

[@FurryKeidran98]

@@9to5Escape I ended up getting the intake off, she was just stuck and I needed to use more force that I was using at the time. The line I was referring to is part of a diaphram and it goes from the bottom of the intake to the diaphram, which then controls a flap on the upper part of the intake. No clue what any of it does, but it's all contained on the intake and there was no reason to remove any of it. The car had been in a wreck and the positive wire for the starter solenoid was cut / shorted, so I had to repair the wire.

[@9to5Escape]

@@FurryKeidran98 Yeah I think that's part of the fuel rail that's attached to the intake manifold. Glad you got it!

[@FordMustangGTRocks]

My 2uz fe had a radiator fail on the highway. Temp gauge pegged out and motor seized up. 2 hours later it started fine and drove home with multiple stops to fill coolant. Now it is misfiring on the 7th and 8th cyl.. going to open it up soon. Any input is appreciated....

[@FordMustangGTRocks]

Misfire started about a month after new radiator/ fluids

[@9to5Escape]

Could be a blown head gasket, damaged cylinder walls, busted rings... Kind of impossible to tell without popping the heads off. A leak down and compression test might help diagnose first before removing the heads.

[@FordMustangGTRocks]

@@9to5Escape thank you, ill be giving that a try soon!

[@doncouins641]

OK doing complete valve job set timing motor correct position right bank at correct timming mark but left bank cam sprocket is at 700 0clck what is or am I doing wrong?

[@9to5Escape]

Is this before or after you have the belt on?

[@9to5Escape]

Try giving the crank a few full rotations. If you put the belt on the correct marks they won't line up on every rotation, it lines up on every other rotation I believe.

[@doncouins641]

@@9to5Escape sorry for not responding but yes before the belts on think I just needed to turn left bank cam to right setting so I had to replace every valve in head so was a job and then sims were off so had to redo

[@23dt444]

Not very helpful, the video stops halfway through the tear down, and all of a sudden you're putting the engine back together???? Didn't make any sense

[@sanjaygandhi7962]

How anyone can remember how to put everything back together is beyond my comprehension.

[@9to5Escape]

Record it then play it in reverse!