A Bit of Ship Model Q & A, Part 2

[@jonathansimmonds5784]

So glad to see you use Underhill's books, every rigger and most owners I've met have a copy, the fold out deck plan of pinrails is priceless.

[@arthurskim7898]

Tom, only recently discovered your channel, I am truly amazed at you vast knowledge of model ship building, and ability to pass on that knowledge. BRAVO ZULU

[@shipmodelguy]

Sorry, Arthur. I just saw this one.

[@jonathansimmonds5784]

That's what is known as a 'harbour stow' in the photo of the Champion, sailors wouldn't furl a sail like that every time as it takes too long to do. Your sails look fine to me for a 'working' stow, which is basically just bunted up and secured with gaskets although the ideal is to have the sail on top of the yard (note the lack of the word 'arm', not all square riggers have yards with arms, the long bit outboard of the lifts usually painted white to assist in the setting of studding sails). I once had to go aloft in a force ten gusting eleven in the full rigger Sorlandet off the Azores in November, the main royal had blown out of it's gaskets and was flogging so badly to risk losing the royal mast, even the tying of gaskets needs to be done correctly. The bosun gave the whole crew a refresher course after that. But boy what a ride that was 120ft up with the ship lying a-hull rolling both rails under!

[@kevinm3751]

For your dye take a look at Rit graphite for the dark lines. I love the contrast it gives and is more accurate than using the dark brown.

[@shipmodelguy]

Thanks, Kevin. I will give it a try.

[@jimcleland4419]

Tom your models are a work of art. I like the way you weather things and create a realistic look. Like you I've worked my life at what I love . You in modelling and myself in the theatre creating sets . It's all about subliminal touches as the eye picks out things that sometimes we aren't aware of. Thank you Tom for your excellent youtube clips ...Safe travels good health and happy modelling.... Jim Cleland ...Aldinga Beach..... South Australia

[@shipmodelguy]

Hi Jim, I believe you've written to me before. Glad you're enjoying the videos. And, I agree: your life's work and mine are, indeed very similar. Stay tuned for "more stuff". And anytime the spirit moves you, leave some feedback. Good Holidays, Tom

[@benjaminschomburg7746]

Thanks for all that great content! I am really glad I ended up on your channel. I placed my first order at Syren today and am looking forward to the new materials :)

[@shipmodelguy]

Afetr you've had a chance to use them on a project, let me know what you think. I've had limited experience with their linen line as I still have a very large stash of vintage stuff. The Syren line I have looks and feels good. But, I still prefer the old linen.

[@benjaminschomburg7746]

Hi Tom, after some trouble with customs I finally have my Syren line here. I also ordered some 2mm blocks that look pretty good and will be great with a little work. The line looks very convincing, especially compared with the kit contents I have here. I do not really have a lot of experience to speak of, I only just started modelling with a Corel Kit (my first build). But I will let you know when I have got some use of the line, will start with bolt-ropes on the sails. Your videos are a source of inspiration and something to aspire to, so thanks again for that! Cheers Ben

[@shipmodelguy]

@@benjaminschomburg7746 Hi Ben, Do keep me apprised of your progress. All the Best, T

[@jpjobojo]

very useful tips as usual.. Tom you are very helpful, the way you explain every aspect of the subject is just amazing.. thank you and keep it coming.

[@jeffwatts4264]

i think that the vinegar added to the dye is to enable the pigment to enter the body of the fabric easier , i think i would leave the vinegar out and just leave the thread in the dye bath for a little longer

[@shipmodelguy]

You may be right about it making it easier for the dye to get in. I have also found out that the vinegar acts as a mordant or fixer that helps to set the dye more permanently without fading with repeated washings. Since I don't see the possibility of repeatedly washing my ship models, I vote to leave it out of the mix. Also, I found that using dye hot with the vinegar, as suggested by the dye maker, totally unravels silk line. So, if you're using silk, DEFINITELY leave the vinegar out. Thanks for writing, Tom

[@rlr1173]

Thanks for sharing your passion with us. I watched your video on draw plates, the only draw plates I can find are in metrics, do you have any idea what size I will need? Thanks for your time Richard

[@shipmodelguy]

Thanks for writing and I'm glad you're enjoying the videos. It seems you're right. After a quick web search, I've only seen metric stuff. But they are still totally usable. If you're using digital calipers, just measure your stock in mm's. Then hit the button to go back to imperial and you've got it. It seems like the 3mm to 0.5mm would be the most useful for ship models. In imperial measurement, that would go from .078" or a bit over 5/64" down to .019", or just over 1/64". Doing it this way, you should be able to come to within a couple of thousandths of you target. Hope this helps. PS Here's a link to drawplates offered by Contenti Co. They're one of my faves. Good stuff, reasonable prices and fast shipping. contenti.com/draw-plates/steel-draw-plates/economy-round-drawplate

[@jimhernandez6415]

Thanks for sharing your gift.

[@shipmodelguy]

Jim, Thanks for watching.

[@chriscicoski1684]

Tom, thank you much. Really have me inspired for my next build.

[@alancabrera7116]

Wonderful video. I found it very informative. In regard to your opinion about using synthetics, I have heard from champions of synthetic threads that they are immune to changes in humidity. How much of a concern is this with the threads espoused in this video? To be sure, I've seen them used and the lie of the lines seems weird to me and it breaks me out of the illusion of scale.

[@shipmodelguy]

I don’t have the expertise to speak to the invulnerability of synthetics. And I have seem first hand, the effects of humidity on natural fibers (linen and cotton). Having said all that, I still stick to my opinion on synthetics vs. naturals, mostly because of the reason you cited- their unnatural appearance and, perhaps, my own inability to get them to behave the way I want. The other unknown, at least for me, is their projected lifespan. Linen and even cotton, if cared for properly will last literally hundreds of years. I don’t know if the same is true for the synthetic lines. Then, there is the off gassing factor-for me, that’s another unknown. Yes, everything off-gasses, even linen and cotton. Those have been looked at by the people who know how to assess such a threat. The general feeling is the threat is minimal. I don’t know if synthetics have been subject to the same scrutiny. So, for what’s left of my model building life, I will probably stick to my faves and forgo the synthetics. Until proven differently, it’s probably best to stick with that which you know works. Just my opinion and this is certainly a subject worth exploring, but I’m lucky enough to have a good supply of my favorite fiber lines to carry me through the rest of my active modeling days. Thanks for writing and for your patience. Tom

[@jonathansimmonds5784]

Or like Malcolm Darch once said to me he makes proper sails even on a furled display because someone might set them one day.

[@johnbrock1602]

Can you explain planking the hull. I like a realistic look on the hull not a cut and shape the planks to fit. Thank you for your time.

[@shipmodelguy]

John, I just saw this. Sorry I didn't write back sooner. I don't have any plans to do a video on hull planking (but that can change). I am not an expert on it, by any means. And, I currently don't have a project that requies it. Everything I know about the subject I learned from the book, "Plank on Frame Ship Models" by Harold Underhill. It is an old book, well written and well illustrated. You should be able to find it on Amazon or eBay. I believe Model Shipways also has a book on the subject. I don't have any idea how good it is, though. Hope this helps. Tom

[@danewing4658]

Hey Tom i just started ship building can you please tell me the best website/ store to buy all the tools and accessories. Thank you so much for the Channel i am learning alot. THANKS again

[@shipmodelguy]

Glad you're getting something out of the videos. As far as buying tools, etc... Go easy until you have a good feel for what you really need. And, keep in mind that while there are tools common to most ship model guys, there are many things that I might find essential, that you could think are totally useless. This is especially true for places like Micro Mark, which do sell many very usable tools, but also sell a lot of things that are basically tits on a bull and a waste of money. Contenti Jewelry Supplier Gesswien Jewelry Supplier Bluejacket Shipcrafters Syren Ship Models These are a few of the places out there to get what you need. And yes, I do occasionally order stuff from Micro Mark, too.

[@danewing4658]

Thanks for responding! I will look into it.

[@charlesmiller9462]

I want to rig my models with authentic rigging blocks been wooden or brass ( I can paint the brass ones), could you direct me to where I could buy good authentic looking ones?

[@shipmodelguy]

Bluejacket Shipcrafters sells blocks made from Britannia metal. They are very nicely made and only need a minimum of clean up. A link to their website is in the description, above.

[@taylorwoodw5107]

Nice video 👍🏻

[@shipmodelguy]

Thanks, Taylor

[@dugan6056]

We don't prefer the rigging line etc in the UK, that's what's available. We have to import good gear from overseas. Somebody please start a store over here!