A Different Edwardian Lace Blouse | The 1905 Berry Travel Suit Project Part 1

Hello everyone and welcome to a new video!
I'm so glad to FINALLY be able to share this project with you! The folks over on Patreon voted for this costume make back in 2021, and I started in earnest only to fizzle out like a candle at the end of its wick. I managed to get some of it done over the winter of 2021 into 2022, but once the winter was over I lost all motivation. But I decided this was the year to finish it! So back in December, I picked the project back up and I am finally at a point where I can share the beginnings since I am confident in the ending.
This project is inspired by an extant costume at the Hillwood Museum in the USA (hillwoodmuseum.org/collection.... It was made in 1905 by B. Altman (with shops in New York and Paris), so it was a fairly expensive and important ensemble. I think it really shows the fashion lines of the mid 1900s in all of its peak Edwardian-ness. It really captured my eye when I first saw it on Pinterest! At the time that I started making it, there was little information about it, but since then the museum has added a written description with further details (showing I've made some incorrect assumptions along the way, but oh well!).
The blouse took about 2 meters of plain cotton for the lining, and around 10 meters of different laces for the overlay, as well as some berry satin for the details. I don't have a pattern up for this on my Patreon, but I think Black Snail's #0816 Edwardian Blouse (blacksnailpatterns.com/en/pro...) could be adapted for something like this. There is an exclusive video over on Patreon that includes a discussion on materials and project planning, as well as links to some of the lace and materials.
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[@annerigby4400]

The cost of sewing is the main reason why I predominantly use cotton. I don't like polyester - sweaty, plasticky - I just can't stand it. So, it's cotton for me. It comes in different thicknesses and so I can always find what I need and wait for sales. Another fabric I have found that I can afford is ramie - it's like linen but made with nettles and a lot cheaper.

[@jenniferpingleton8389]

I'd never heard of ramie! I've got to check that out, I was dreading the cost of linen

[@CatsCostumery]

I love cotton too!

[@olgahein4384]

Interesting, here where i live i stumble among Ramie VERY rarely and it's more expensive than linnen here or cotton imitating linnen (like, 5 bucks per meter for cotton, 7-8 for fake linnen out of cotton, 10-12 for cheaper linnen, 15 bucks for ramie). The prices can vary a lot though, depending on where you buy. I purchase my linnen from the same online seller for years, cause i really don't wanna drive to their store at the other end of the country every time.

[@RockinTheBassGuitar]

Where I live, linen is thankfully becoming more affordable but I think the reason is that they don't distinguish between linen made from flax and linen made from hemp. They function similarly though. But I love cotton. It is amazing to work with.

[@dawsie]

@@olgahein4384 I have bought Ramie, it’s like flax just a different plant and it was reasonably priced, I do know it’s not hemp, in the past few years there have been new/old types of Fiber being used. Bamboo is nice but it’s made in the same way as the wood Fiber is made, where as banana, and other plants are cleaned and spun like flax, wool and Cotten so I am very happy to buy and use them. I refuse to use polyester now I’m so tired of going out shopping only to have large sparks between me and the shelving caused by wearing synthetics. I have just spent the past we years buying and collecting fabrics in either natural or white so I can dye them myself for the colours I love, some fabrics I have bought which are floral or patterned fabric, I don’t follow fashion as it’s just not my style never has been all my life, I love long skirts and matching tops I stopped worrying about the fashion world and only go with what I love. Sometimes you just have to save up for that perfect fabric because cutting corners you will never ever be happy with the finished garment, I have done this in my youth (I’m 60 now so I don’t cut those corners anymore) and the end result was I have a stunning out fit that I was never happy to wear. Where as now I buy the fabric I love it takes time to get everything gathered but at the end I have an out fit that I will wear all the time. Funny enough I have even gone back to hand sewing again, I have a machine but no were to set it up yet so I have been hand sewing and funny enough I have really been enjoying it.😊😊

[@maggierobertson2962]

The hidden cost for me is that so many projects are 3 or more layers. A 5 yard project can really take up to 15 yards of various materials.

[@Rhaifha]

Thank you for discussing budget constraints! It's wild to me how much of the historical costuming community on youtube is like; "Oh yeah, you *have* to buy several meters of silk satin, just because it is more historically accurate!". It gets quite gatekeep-y honestly. Also, that's a lovely project! I can't wait to see the rest of it!

[@fatsparrowsewing]

I agree! I saw the phrase 'stitch counting' as a take on 'gate keeping' recently and thought yes! There totally is! Many of the big names in historical costuming have a lot of money to spend on fabrics, and it is so easy for them to bang on about historical accuracy but for everyday folks? Nah, I'm going to stick with upcycled sheets and doona covers, thanks. Maybe splash out and use some curtains I was given for free or bought in an op shop! Hahaha

[@aksez2u]

Hmm ... I don't know. I'm sure I know who you're talking about, and it seems to me that they are holding THEMSELVES to those standards because among their goals is to be as historically accurate as possible, but I've never heard anyone say that other people's work isn't valid if they have other goals or constraints. The common term is "costume" which I think implies a lot of latitude. I don't think anyone should feel bad about how and of what material they make their costumes and garments.

[@SwimmingInSunlight]

It feels like you are taking personally that other people showcasing the techniques can afford and want to use more authentic materials 😅 I've always worked with discount materials and use costube as learning resource and I've never gotten judgemental vibe from any towards budget options, some actively encourage to just sew with anything you can 😬

[@RychaardRyder]

@@SwimmingInSunlightoh my, any chance i could get a hint on who that is? sorry I'm not always caught up in the costuming community

[@SwimmingInSunlight]

@@RychaardRyder who? I was speaking of costubers in general

[@sharontownsend-thompson9505]

Thank you for good advice about using alternative fabrics to make historical clothing.👌

[@mrs.knecro7044]

100% use what you have. I’ve thrifted bed sheets and curtains to make wearable mock ups. I try to go for colors and patterns I like so if it works out I can wear it. If you aim for cottons even better but sometimes polyester is what you get and that’s ok too! I think it’s so wrong for people to get upset if somethings not exact like it’s your project and your interpretation of the garment they can heck off if they want to be that nit picky about everything

[@makeda6530]

It’s sooooo pretty! As much as I love sewing it is a very costly hobby and people don’t realize how much it actually costs. Especially when people will be like, ‘you could totally sell that/setup up an Etsy’ like I have the money to go out and buy yards and yards to recreate things. Anyway, I get it, the cost is real for our pretty things, I hope it’s still good enough and makes you happy. Cotton and discounts for the win~!

[@skatfan]

It’s lovely and I can see that you will enjoy wearing it! Merriwether Post was an heiress to the Post cereal fortune and her homes were famous (Donald Trump turned one into Mar-a-lago!).

[@theMoporter]

Omg, so so so pretty!! I agree with your rant from the start but got EXTREMELY distracted by how beautiful it turned out!

[@kagamisorrows9306]

Coffee / tea staining lace works so nicely, even on partly synthetic lace. I found a blog post that listed the different colours that different teas produced a while ago and since then use green tea for a more yellowish creme colour and black if I want more of a pinkish tone. I never thought that green tea would also stain. Never used coffee before, maybe I can try that next. Also this video makes me want to reorganise my lace drawer 😅

[@conniemurdoch8528]

It turned out lovely.

[@pegaseg70]

You could put coffee only on the white part of the lace and avoid the net

[@julieroyce4497]

Gorgeous blouse - beautiful sewing!

[@quicksilvertears921]

The blouse is beautiful. I like yours better than the original.

[@LaurenKozur]

amazing work!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@darkeyedfran]

It’s beautiful Cat!!!! I truly enjoy this piece

[@jacquelineshrader2106]

There is an outdoor concert venue near Washington, D.C. in the United States named Merriweather Post Pavilion - named for Marjorie Merriweather Post for her many years of financially supporting the national symphony! I suppose this was her blouse originally :) Love seeing your videos!

[@maudline]

Love those sleeves! Such a beautiful shape 😻 And that red satin is amazing on you ❤❤❤

[@KathleenStidham]

This blouse is so beautiful, and looks lovely on you. I appreciate how you always describe what worked, what didn't (and what you did to get around it), and what you would do differently next time. I am nowhere near doing this kind of sewing, but it's always a wonderful break in my daily life when your videos come out.

[@robintheparttimesewer6798]

Oh wow this project! I’m going to have to visit the site and see all the pictures! Your blouse is amazing! All that lace is so beautiful. Can’t wait to see what you do for the suit. Also I’m with you sewing is expensive and as long as you’re happy with the material who cares what anyone else thinks. I’m sure it will be stunning no matter what material you use.

[@dorota1504]

It doesn't matter how long it takes, because when we actually get there the result it's stunning :D. It looks so lovely on you Cat. Can't wait to see the rest.

[@ushere5791]

cat, it's amazing and stunning and beautiful and perfect! please always use hook and eye tape--i'm sure the victorians and edwardians would have loved to.

[@brookedonaldson1354]

So beautiful 😍 I love the lace detailing and those sleeves are wonderful ❤

[@pegrichard2820]

Such a gorgeous piece of work!

[@TheHopeDreier]

It looks lovely, but my dear, Gloves are a must.

[@dee-annegordon5959]

Worth all the time and effort. The blouse is stunning! I love lace and this top is literally dripping lace.

[@bonniecolleenpappin8807]

Adorable!

[@theculteredvulture13]

What a lovely result. The pop of red is stunning! Thanks for sharing.

[@NerdXertz]

It looks lovely

[@gkseeton]

Beautiful!

[@pippaseaspirit4415]

I love your comment about “wild hair”! I think your hair is gorgeous! My hair looked at yours and said: “ Wild? Nah! Not really trying!” My hair has unresolved conflict issues 😂😂😂 Yours is just being gloriously unfettered! The blouse is absolutely gorgeous 😍😍

[@michellecornum5856]

This blouse is insanely beautiful

[@MysteryMommy1]

It’s lovely

[@KenZchameleon]

It's so gorgeous! The faux layers are brilliant and the red is just gorgeous. It looks fabulous and so do you!!

[@jeansando6849]

So pretty!!

[@hazeluzzell]

Have you ever been to a Re enactor’s Market? You can get suiting weight wool much more cheaply than that. I usually pay £8 per metre. Btw…my mum was born in 1905. Yes, I am that old!

[@bunhelsingslegacy3549]

That's really cute. And nice save on the burned bit!

[@farangarris2598]

Wow it came out so pretty! Good job. Beautiful.

[@maleahlock]

Thank you for sharing a difficult process and how you made it work on a budget. I hope despite the stress it caused you, that you can now enjoy it in most epic ways! It came out absolutely stunning! 🎉

[@conniemurdoch8528]

Coffee is the way I always worked with lace for me. If you have poly laces , poly doesn’t pick up dye but if they are a blend some of the ?poly content might do so. I was always satisfied with the slight amt in reproduction laces which are 90-95% cotton. But there are blends with poly that might do much darker that other mystery element. You will always need to test as you buy fabric/laces. Just always check the % age as that will usually give you a better idea how much content the extras elements could change part of the overall look.

[@KelseyDrummer]

I'm so excited!!

[@charlarp]

So beautiful!💕💕💕

[@elizabethh1804]

Hillwood Museum is a *beautiful* house museum, gallery, and garden here in Washington DC. I saw an exhibition of Faberge there a few years ago, and it's well worth a visit if you're ever in the area.

[@nancyvance1873]

Marjorie Merriweather Post went to Hot Springs, Virginia on her honeymoon...only about 45 minutes from where I live!

[@debcarroll8192]

This shirtwaist is so lovely!

[@RichardLyleEsq]

Captain Floofheart. I love it.

[@diamondslashranch]

It’s absolutely lovely great job!

[@BrooklynneMichelle]

This is such a stunning blouse! I can't wait to see the rest of the outfit!

[@sarahwatts7152]

Glorious! Worth all the work

[@susankellam8844]

That's sooo beautiful!

[@TealCheetah]

so fluffy, I love it!

[@fannydriscoll]

It is absolutely gorgeous!!!!!

[@BethAge95]

It turned out lovely!

[@elizabethw.6154]

I love the burgundy ribbon 🎀 part.

[@sophieinspired]

It does look really pretty 💖

[@Hysteria_Costumes]

I love it😍 Looking forward to the rest of the suit.

[@MeadowoodRanch]

It’s beautiful!!!!

[@iconstarchild8567]

Well done. It was fun to watch your process.

[@fatsparrowsewing]

Wow, what an ambitious project! It came out great!!!

[@vfrances5159]

Love your work! However, I damn near choked on the high collar! I'm really glad I live in modern times!

[@hsama]

Ok I saved the same project. 😅 this is so pretty 😊

[@emmadavey3892]

Stunning! You suit the romantic look.

[@juniperberrymead]

Totally unrelated but your hair is so beautiful!!!

[@TealCheetah]

I wish nice fabric was affordable

[@brendafalk5162]

Absolutely gorgeous! It will be sad to cover it with a jacket.

[@anessaharris9947]

🇨🇦😃

[@EclecticRefresh]

First of all, absolutely beautiful work as always. You always inspire me!! Second, is the dress you’re wearing while coffee staining the lace a dress you’ve made? And if so is there a pattern? I’ve seen it and now I literally can’t stop thinking about making one for myself!

[@Noel.Chmielowiec]

I mainly use cotton. I bought wool suiting for skirt, but it's mid calf length and doesn't use that much fabric (also it was discounted), I absolutely hate polyester, because I'm so hot in it. But also I make clothes that I'm going to wear everyday. I think that if Victorians/Edwardians would have access to cheap fabrics they would use them. They had synthetic silk (was it rayon? or am I wrong) so if they used it why can't we?

[@nanner3135]

With historical costuming I sometimes have to ask, if they made this style of clothing now, would they have chosen the same fabrics? For my current project I could have bought linen blend but a pure cotton bed spread set was $5, so way cheaper and cotton feels more comfortable to me.

[@CatsCostumery]

I think about this too!

[@elizharber3564]

🧵✨

[@Vixenventures]

What kind of tea were you using that gave a slight pink undertone? I love wearing blush tones and would love to die some things I have that are stark white.

[@CatsCostumery]

I used basic British black tea 🤣 I think it was PG

[@Vixenventures]

@@CatsCostumery Oh ok, I have some black tea that does have a reddish/pink color to it. I'm in the US, so looking in my cabinet is much easier than online, lol. Thank you!!

[@mandylavida]

Did you make the rest of this project? I can't find the videos.

[@GymGirl88]

I have a friend who's Post money 😅.

[@annerigby4400]

So, I'm about halfway through the video and I have to say this. I know absolutely nothing about historical clothing, but it seems to me that the sleeves of the blouse are like a regular sleeve where layers of lace have been gathered onto it in three places - the large from the shoulder flounce kind of lace, a sleeve space, then a gathered piece of lace that overlaps with the next piece of gathered lace and so one plus the satin ribbon. I was surprised to see the part that is gathered under to form the volume at the top. I'm not saying you're doing it wrong, just that from the picture it seemed to me to be what I describe.... probably fortunate I'm not making it, hahahah!

[@waterbitten]

Historical accuracy is elitist and exclusionary! Let's in mind people are mostly making costumes, not day to day way unlike the people they're trying to be accurate too who worn the same pieces as part of thier daily wardrobe. If you want to make a period piece, do the research get the knowledge but make the costume with whatever you can afford, that! Is historically accurate.

[@rachelboersma-plug9482]

*Insisting* on historical accuracy can be exclusionary, but there is a time and place for it. Wool can be important for reenactment purposes because it's safer around fire, and it's often a better choice for reasons of warmth, if you live in a cold place, or extended costume life, if you are going to wear something often.

[@olgahein4384]

@@rachelboersma-plug9482 Exactly, i made my first viking outfit from a poly-cotton blend and oh boy - did i regret it. Not only did i regret the time and effort i put into useless material that is mostly plastic, actually wearing it was a pain (i thought: well, i live in the south of Germany, it doesn't get really that cold here like in Scandinavia, i can get away with that - i sweat my ass off, still felt cold at 30°C AND got rashes all over). When i switched out everything against linnen i never looked back and adding actual wool (so what if it's 30bucks per meter, it's like eating out in a restaurant once) was the best decision in my life. I then quickly moved on to changing my everyday wardrobe to the same materials: got rid of anything out of plastic, and bought cotton and modal for summer and linnen and wool for all year round. And if it was too expensive, i just made it myself, be it sewing, knitting, crocheting or nailbinding. Not that hard.

[@maleahlock]

Historical accuracy is actually really important for historical practice/research. No one should be holding costumers to historical standards. Thankfully the many channels I follow have never pushed that on others and only stated what was accurate and what they personally were using. If anyone gatekeeps you, slam that gate!!! You enjoy your hobby any way you can afford.