A Guide to Wiring Your Modular Model Railroad

Whether you're a seasoned enthusiast or just starting your journey into the world of model trains, this video will take you through essential techniques and tips to ensure flawless operation on your modular model railroad.
There are hundreds of possible ways to wire a model railway layout and this is just one of those ways, however this video will get you started for wiring a layout specifically designed to be modular. It’s important to have good reliable wiring, there’s nothing more frustrating than having your train stutter or completely stop because of poor wiring and track work.
This video will help ensure you get started in the right direction when wiring your train layout.
Be sure to visit www.bouldercreekrailroad.com for the complete series of articles and videos showcasing this layout and its construction.

[@simarshall2474]

I'm a wargamer, not a train guy, and that's why I've been subbed here for so long. That said I just sat and watched 15 minutes on how to wire up a train layout. And thoroughly enjoyed it :D Obviously I can't wait until you get to the scenic section of the layout though!

[@The_Modeling_Underdog]

I scratch-build gliders in 1/2nd scale. Yet, I watch Luke's and wargaming videos. There's always something to be learned, innit? This one was particularly interesting.

[@twocvbloke]

A note on leaded solder - If you're creating lead vapours, you're soldering at far too high a temperature, as it will only vaporise at about 1,750 degrees Celcius (average soldering temps are generally in the 300-400 degrees range), the vapours you see emitted when soldering is the flux evaporating, and unless it's that nasty lead-free flux that needs some harsh chemicals to get it to stick, it's generally not considered harmful...

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Oh nice, good to know 😉 so I guess it's the flux that's creating the fumes. It still probably good to avoid the fumes, I did some soldering and didn't have good ventilation not long ago and after about 5 minutes I started to get a headache! Thanks for the info 👍

[@twocvbloke]

@@BoulderCreekRailroad There are simple ways to deal with the fumes (usually they use Rosin as a flux, which is a natural product from Pine trees), one of which is a comptuer fan that's blowing through an air filter of some sort, I have one attached to a Kirby vacuum cleaner bag (a rather large charcoal-filter style bag), fumes go in, air gets filtered, but in general I've rarely had issues with the fumes, but I tend to solder with the window open anyway... :)

[@lawrencemanning]

The average leaded solder will be cored with rosin flux, which is harmful if inhaled. This is why the average electronics hobbiest will employ sone kind of fume extraction device. Ultimately it’s about being sensible: if you are only soldering once a week for a few minutes, opening the window is sufficient. But there’s a reason why anyone doing it in a commercial setting is required to have fume extractors in place. But yea, the lead isn’t the problem.

[@twocvbloke]

@@lawrencemanning I added a reply describing what I use for filtering the fumes, a comptuer fan blowing into a charcoal based vacuum cleaner bag, very cheap and simple to put together... :)

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Yeah, I'm lucky to solder once a month, but when I do I solder a whole bunch of things at the same time. I prefer the leaded solder because it flows so much nicer and yes it has rosin flux. I'll make sure to use a fan and keep the windows open when I do soldering for sure 😉

[@froppygirl994]

I can’t wait to see this fully built it’s gonna look awesome

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Yeah I really hope so 😉

[@Bruno.Trains]

There are many impressive model railways, but this one is just spectacular. I could only dream to have a layout like this!

[@MJA6995]

I have been watching your channel for a few years now, and I can't wait to see what you do with the layout. Amazing work, Luke.

[@tombuck]

You always make everything look so easy and simple. Really goes to show how years of experience pay off!

[@Waleram1]

The master of the modelism H0. Your ideas help me. Regards from Spain.

[@bekahbabie]

Have I ever made a single diorama? No. Do I plan to ever make a diorama? No. Am I interested in trains in general? No. Was I absolutely fascinated and entertained throughout this entire video nonetheless? Hell yeah!!

[@seeing8spots]

Same 😂

[@martin0mac2000]

If your looking for a thinner wire than the 18AWG Jaycar stuff you have used in this layout, Altronics has a 21AWG wire available (or from a altronics stockist) its part W2261.

[@SMCoasters97]

Seeing you upload is always the highlight of my month/couple of months, I always prefer the full project videos but any video always turns out great even though I don’t actually do any of this myself

[@avlisk]

I'd never heard of those point motors before. Thanks for the info.

[@owentorres2389]

Definitely looking forward to the lighting video. I’ve always felt that poor lighting can ruin the best looking layouts.

[@andrewsmith2591]

Looking forward to seeing your railroad in operation, with all the excellent scenery modules you have created in your past videos.

[@cheeseisdelicious4627]

So meticulous, I'm always watching for the sake of appreciation and seeing things come together looks so cool.

[@jean-lucdevaux41]

Hello Luke, I regularly look at your constructions and the latest ones more particularly concerning your modular rail network. Like you, I use the MTB relays under the table and like you, I made templates to position them easily. On the other hand, I inserted a piece of 2mm cork between the motor and the template because I find that they make noise when they move. The cork dampens these vibrations a little. You explain very well, keep up the good work. Hello from France

[@WillJamesRailways]

Great stuff as always Luke! Some excellent tips!

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks Will, looking forward to seeing some updates on your layout as well 😉 p.s. love your news videos, I struggle to keep up with what all the various manufacturers are doing so the research you do is greatly appreciated!

[@19scamps92]

i hoped for so many years, that you will get "back to the roots" and start more on "real" train related stuff. I am super happy with your new video series and can't wait for the next video! Great work as always and i MUCH apreciate your work and your sharing! Thank you and cheers from Switzerland

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks mate, glad you're enjoying the new series of videos 😉

[@diorama_ksa]

Hi Luke. The professional diorama maker. I learned a lot from you especially the details of the details. 👍👍👍

[@carlosfabian6870]

Ola Luke towan felicitaciones 👏 👏 por ese trabajo 👍 saludos 🇺🇾🇺🇲🇺🇾🇺🇲🇺🇾🇺🇲

[@davidchapman1519]

I've been modeling a looong time, and I love your videos for ideas that I may have never thought of. The Laser level is such a good idea!

[@johnd8892]

Wow ... An SDS/Phoenix D3 4-6-0 steam locomotive makes it to a Luke Towan video. I am sure Steve and the staff at SDS will be pleased.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

It's an awesome model! I love it... runs so well 😉

[@Zankoran]

I wish I could afford some VR steam locos. I'm forced by my budget to model British OO instead.

[@TheMrXtian]

Hi Luke, I wanted to thank you for the really good, informative and factual videos. No gimmicks, just facts. I found your profile just by chance... I wanted to ask you some questions, but the content of the videos always led me to the answers. Stay healthy and good luck. Christian, a fan of Berlin

[@natashabittinger5233]

Can't wait for you to add trees and grass and mabe water.

[@nebula28]

Mamma mia... Again and again Luke you keep doing it... Cant wait to see this beauty when its done...

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks mate, yeah I'm really looking forward to doing scenery!

[@josefbuckland]

Super. Some surprising choices but I know your always ahead of the curve. I too have two vids coming up that continually pay homage to the fellow QLD’er that is the oracle of this. I must say as my layout is coming together it would never look as good as it does without that brilliant brain of yours sharing with us the skill to turn our imagination into reality. Sensational.

[@valborchardt3596]

Thank you Luke. Take care

[@onnomulder9775]

Another great 'how to' Luke!!! Awesome as usual!! I liked it very much. Thank you for sharing this video! Cheers Onno.

[@djantwan6155]

Hello Mr Towan. My wife Yvonne and I (Antwan) have been planning 2 H0 scale model train layout for almost 3 years. Both tracks should be dismountable. And we are also in the process of setting up the 2 rooms. So far so good, the layout is on paper and partly in my memory. They will be analogue tracks, with control panels just like the ones in your presentation. I have experience with acrylic plexiglass so that will be fine. The solder tin I use has 60% tin and there is flux in it. I have the temperature set at 336 degrees. Little smoke or smells. The rails are from Fleischmann the brass variant without ballast. You are our great example on the internet though, because of your input we are also going to use magnorail. There are images on KZbin showing that magnorail can also be used at a rail crossing. Then, however, a layer of the rails has to be ground away through the bottom with a dremel or proxxon. My father taught me to build with wood, and I am a heating engineer and plumber. We still want to go to Germany in Hamburg to see the most famous model railway exhibition. That will hopefully happen one day. My wife and I wish you all the best and who knows, maybe you will come to the Netherlands one day at a model railway exhibition or the train museum. Greetings Yvonne and Antwan.

[@johnpapp92]

Luke, a tip if you need small gauge wire and can't find it. Go buy a roll of thermostat wire, peel the individual strands apart and strip the sheathing off of them. Presto! That's what I did for my N scale model.

[@laillaE]

Missed your videos! ❤

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

I'm glad you like them 😃

[@thibautjutan4180]

Les vidéos sont toujours très instructives et bien faites bravo merveilleux travail impressionnant. Dommage que je ne comprenne pas l'anglais pauvre de moi. Mais j'apprends malgré tout bravo et merci

[@Trains-stuff]

I love watching your videos they have helped me when I’m working my layout keep up the great work 👍🏻

[@RealAndySkibba]

New Luke Towan video to start the week!

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Hope you like it 😉

[@RealAndySkibba]

​@LukeTowan it was great! And I don't even have a model railroad

[@basmodels]

Instead of soldering a tag board you could consider using Wago 221 series terminals (or some other brand available in your local hardware store). These are meant for connecting both solid and stranded wires in house installations. They provide a firm joint and will save you quite some time in soldering. That being said, great video and looking forward to the next!

[@donaldlembo1263]

This video is fantastic. Your instruction is wonderful. I can’t wait to see the next installment. You are amazing!

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thank you so much! Glad your enjoying the videos 😉 I'm really looking forward to building this layout!

[@michaelimpey1407]

Luke, great progress.

[@MCsCreations]

Fantastic work, Luke! 😃 And you gave some pretty good soldering tips! Thanks!!! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks! 👍 really glad you're enjoying the videos. Yeah I'm really looking forward to seeing this progress, and get some scenery on it 😉

[@subascosauce8288]

I personally will never, ever! wire anything!, even so, when Luke talks wiring…or anything for that matter, I drop everything and watch intently, the guys a genius.

[@The_Wooseong]

_Not the first, but the second ^^ The viewers are so fun~~ [ I am enjoying model railways in Korea ]_

[@HAL9000.]

Are you 12 years old?

[@The_Wooseong]

@@HAL9000. I'm 50 years old

[@The_Wooseong]

@PowerpointEasyandSimple Thank you ^^

[@The_Wooseong]

@@Nic_B That may be so. But the time I watched was 40 seconds after release ^^ What is important about rankings? It's important that you watched this video quickly~

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Not quite... but close 😄

[@ModelMinutes]

I like trains :) also, love watching this series :)

[@railfilm]

Nice work Luke! From transportation point of view it is better to install the control panels witch switches about 10-15 mm behind the fascia surface.

[@sarahpoet6014]

Enjoyed this video!

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Awesome, thank you!

[@ag3365]

MTB switchers from Czechia 😃😃👋🏻👋🏻

[@MattRLR]

Love the videos keep ut the amazing work!

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Glad you like them! I'm excited to start on scenery... my favourite part 😉

[@dandiehm8414]

@@BoulderCreekRailroadMy favorite part too. I'm so thankful that you are the type of person who completes what he begins. Many KZbinrs start a project like this, then let is sit for months, then never complete it. Looking forward to the future episodes!

[@MarksGoneWicked]

I had to look up those switch machines. I hadn't seen them before. Still leaning towards servos for my switches.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Yeah, they are good 👍 whatever works should be good though. Servos are great, there are lots of different options for switch motors and they all have their ups and downs 😉

[@hamiltonsullivan6563]

Wooo 4am special!

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Wow, your up early.... or going to bed late 😴

[@hamiltonsullivan6563]

@@BoulderCreekRailroad 14 hours shift aren't exactly a treat...

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Oh gosh... that's a long day! I hope they pay you well for those kinds of hours!

[@hamiltonsullivan6563]

@@BoulderCreekRailroad fairly well for the State I live in... but it does fund this hobby!

[@danielpas368]

I hope Jaycar sponsored this :D

[@henryD9363]

Love your videos. Watch every one. And watch some of the old ones more than a few times. Your LED wiring shows 100 ohm resistor series with a green LED with a 12 volt supply. The voltage drop across the LED will be close to 2 volts and therefore 10 volts across the resistor. I = V/R = 10V/100ohms, or 100ma. This means there's 100ma flowing through the LED and resistor. The LED Power consumption is 2V * 0.1A or 0.2 watts. This is an awful lot for the tiny LED chip to dissipate. The upper limit for an LED is typically 10 to 20 ma. So your example gives really too much current for the LED and may burn it out. To bring it down to a safe 20ma use R = V/I = 10V / 0.020A = 500ohms. The nearest value is 470ohms. For 10ma use a 1K resistor but this might be too dim for your environment.

[@047678]

I do not know AWG codes. I use 14x0.2 mm copper stranded cable (code is 14/020) that I get from alarm suppliers in 100 metre rolls. They are sold in two and three pair rolls, so you can get six colours in a three pair cable. I use this for droppers or point motors but you could use the finer 7x020 for short runs. You can also get 18 strand, 21 and 24, which are used for speaker installations. For bus wires I use 2.5mm household electrical cable, the stuff used for power points. I strip the outer insulation and use the red and black cables. I also use the Wago cable joiners mentioned below.

[@sharoneastley1349]

I've missed your videos

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks mate, I can't wait to start on scenery!

[@murselgalip5606]

çok güzel birçalışma .mükemmel

[@NicholassTrainChannel]

Awesome video Luke. The wiring s one of the most important things on a layout and I like how you made it look so easy! Those switch motors look good. Nice to see trains running too.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks mate, yeah wiring is very important! I'm a huge fan of the low profile switch machines, it's just a bummer they aren't easily available from Australia, I had to order the ones I have from France, which isn't a problem except postage cost are quite high!

[@lukevanrijthoven826]

Great video, can you please do a video on how you set up and your thoughts on the NCE cab control system your using, im looking at changing my expo layout to run off that.

[@tylergerhart4806]

Hey Luke love your videos. Could you do a Halloween themed diorama for October?

[@4623620]

If you first remove the mask from the surrounding black and paint this, then remove the mask from the tracks parts and paint the whole backside white, make a little box with some dim light for the panel, you can see the tracks much easier in the dark❗

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

That's a really cool idea 💡

[@4623620]

@@BoulderCreekRailroad Thank you.

[@graemetaylor202]

How do you rate the MP1 switch motors against the Tortoise ones for noise? I find running the Tortoise motors at a lower voltage (9v) makes them quieter and the points throw more slowly/realistically. It may be worth a few experiments on the breadboard... Great to BCR finally coming to life. 🙂

[@stevehole2747]

Hi Luke. Really enjoyed this video and your others I have seen. Where did you get the MP1 point switch. I cannot see it at local suppliers

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

I actually bought them from a hobby shop in France. Unfortunately I too haven't found anyone who sells them locally 😔 I think you should find some from the UK, but postage is a bit expensive and the price of the unit has gone up a lot in the last 12 months, but they are great little point motors! Cheers, Elle.

[@user-mt2zt4bu3j]

"MARGA CIPTA" INDONESIA PRIDE 😂❤

[@phillipisley9693]

Those point motors look ideal for my layout as clearance is an issue and I just don't like the switches for the Peco version. My problem is, I am having trouble sourcing them in Australia (Sydney preferably) and was wondering how you managed to acquire them. Cheers

[@mrsameerst5511]

🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥

[@chriscorrigan7420]

G'day Luke. As always another fine display of your handiwork. Would you mind if I asked where you got those point motors from? Please.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks mate, I got them from France, here is a link to the hobby shop website 😉 www.maketis.com/en/tracks/7472-model-railway-motor-switch-mp1-mtb-4043186743091.html?search_query=mp1&results=27

[@LittlePwnageMusicFan]

I choose Bachmann's EZ Command, because it's easier to set up in my opinion.

[@nathanlacey4732]

Hi from the UK, I love your videos and have seen every single one!! Would you ever consider opening a model museum, or making dioramas your full-time job? Or would you prefer to keep it as a way to relax and unwind? Thanks for you dedication and for endless hours of entertainment 😁

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks Nathan, I actually enjoy this as a relaxing hobby. I have my regular day job that pays the bills and model railroading is just for fun. I'd worry that if I turn it into a full time job it might lose its enjoyment. So for the time being I'm just doing videos every now and then to share the hobby 😉

[@nathanlacey4732]

@@BoulderCreekRailroad Sounds good! I'm excited to see where this one goes

[@salmanbaloch2858]

It's look like a subway 🚇

[@zkolorowahistoria8149]

I have qestion. Do you can add information abaut wires thick in Millimeters ? .

[@treystudio_art]

I saw there was a brand of acrylic, Marga Cipta, it's from Indonesia?

[@monsvillerailways5736]

Nice work Luke. Clearly explained. 👍 Did you insulate the garage door so you can use an air con unit? Humidity here is not good for my layouts. Happy Modelling. Mon

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks Mon, I haven't done anything yet about insulation. I'm actually planning on removing the garage door and putting a sliding glass door... but that's a future project 😄

[@monsvillerailways5736]

@@BoulderCreekRailroad you bet it is is. Maybe double glazed to keep the heat out? Good luck with that. 👍

[@bluwtr]

Why not use lower wattage LEDs to lower the brightness, and acrylic should always be solvent welded.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

They didn't have the colour I wanted in a lower wattage LED, also it's more than ok to use the spray adhesive, if I need to dismantle the panel I can simple soak it with alcohol and separate the parts. If I use solvent that won't be an option... I was originally planning to not use adhesive at all given the screws hold the panel together 😉

[@Chickenchicken46]

Luke, lovely video as always Is there an Australian supplier for the MP1 switches?

[@Mike__B]

That was certainly interesting and informative. I'm curious though, I know general wiring works for either DC or DCC setups, but what about those switch flippers, it seemed that you wired in to the same as your track wiring, but it won't work with DCC will it?

[@Drobek1989]

No, the motor in the MTB MPx switches can be operated with AC (12-15V) or DC (9-14V) voltage, so you can use track voltage to operate the motor. But there is no decoder, so no DCC.

[@Mike__B]

@@Drobek1989 Ok, so if you want a setup to run DC or DCC with the flip of a switch you'll want to wire these up separately of the track voltage. Thanks.

[@Drobek1989]

@@Mike__B exactly. On our club layouts I am keeping track and "steering" (switches, lamps etc.) circuits completely separate, so we can use them as DC or DCC

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Yeah, I probably wasn't entirely clear, I have 2 BUS wires, one is connected to the DCC control unit which has all the feeders connected to it via the tag board. The second BUS wire is connected to a 12 volt power supply which is separate from the DCC system. The second BUS is what powers the switch machines to change the direction of the points. The switch machine has a SPDT switch built into it which is connected to the track power (the DCC BUS) which changes the polarity of the frog. Hope that helps 😉

[@maxkaiser2276]

Just one question: I went to the local hobby store but they didnt even know what the Hey Joe scale is! 😅 😉

[@c.a.mcdivitt9722]

I really love your work. I do have to say, though, that you lost a lot of strength replacing that whole section of front board with the control panel. I would recommend going about 3 inches back from the old board and adding a brace to reinforce the whole set-up, or the whole thing is going to want to twist when it's being lifted or moved.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Yeah I did consider that, when I removed the section I gave it a test to see if it lost much rigidity and it held really well, there was minimal twisting. Plus once I attach the fascia which is 4.8mm hard board it should bring back a small amount of rigidity. If it's a problem I'll go back and add additional support but at the moment it seems OK 👍

[@haiqall7872]

Any chance of a 1:64 model in the future?

[@domenicomotta6759]

What laser do you use?

[@robertangermann9238]

Sieht richtig gut aus.weiter so. Was für einen lasercuter benutzt du? LG Robert

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Thanks, I'm using the Beamo 30 watt laser cutter from Flux3D.

[@RFC3514]

0:13 - Were you shivering from the cold, or was the tracking just kind of dodgy there? ;-)

[@hmeyers4]

Nice video - I’ve not seen the tag boards before, where did you source them? Or is there a different name for them?

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

I got them from Jaycar in Australia 😉

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Luke , what type of toggle switch, momentary or stays on

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

It stays on 😉

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Thanks Luke

[@dundasjunctionmodelr.r-jam8267]

Luke excellent, where can you buy those switch machines

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

I ordered these once from a hobby shop in France, here is a link to their website: www.maketis.com/en/tracks/7472-model-railway-motor-switch-mp1-mtb-4043186743091.html?search_query=mp1&results=27

[@HumancityJunction]

Why did you choose DC instead of DCC?

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

It's DCC, I'm using ESU Cab Control 😉

[@HumancityJunction]

I realized when I got to the end of the video@@BoulderCreekRailroad , but the turnouts all seem to be analog controlled.

[@chickenfist1554]

If you're painting clear acrylic from the back it's best to start with your darkest colour and work your way to the lightest. You won't have to re-mask and the darker colour won't bleed through the lighter ones :)

[@jansenhobbs4347]

What is that? Blood?

[@jean-luccotteret6817]

Très beau,,mais je trouve que les moteurs d aiguillages sont trop rapides,,j utilise des moteurs " tortoise " lents,sans bruit, et plus réel,,

[@ClinchfieldModelRailroad]

Hi, what model is your laser cutter ?

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Hi, it's called Beamo, from. Flux3D. It's on the less powerfull side, being only 30 watts but that's more than enough for what I do with it 😉

[@Johnny_Guitar]

Hobby Laser Cutter = $4,499.99 USD Solid Metal Hobby Knife = 2.50 USD ....uuhhmm....I'll take the Hobby Knife! Oh....and 100,000 blades to go please! 👈🤣🤣🤣

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

Brand new iPhone = $1500 1999 Nokia 3210 = $17 I bet you're not walking around with a nokia 3210 🤭 That logic can be applied to basically any situation. It's up to you what you consider worth your time and money, we all have different priorities.

[@gtuxgtux]

I want diorama builds 😔

[@Shadow0fd3ath24]

lots of older ones to go back to!

[@gtuxgtux]

Watched them all a thousand times 😅@@Shadow0fd3ath24

[@Solikin_Nenjap]

Akriliknya buatan marga cipta😅

[@aaronbuttitchy444]

Woohoo 1st comment

[@johnd8892]

But are you the first with something useful to contribute?

[@aaronbuttitchy444]

@@johnd8892definitely not… but I enjoyed the video anyway

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

LOL... too fast 😄 you being here is contribution enough!

[@jth1987leb]

I’d be editing out that “black to the back”

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

😬 I'm cancelled...

[@jth1987leb]

@@BoulderCreekRailroad not trying to cancel you. I know it’s not meant to be derogatory but someone might.

[@jth1987leb]

@@Nic_B I’m a model railroader and have never heard that. I’m just saying some people may be offended. It’s better safe than sorry

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

LOL this is where we are at as a society, I know you were just joking but the fact that it is something that is mentioned none the less is pretty eye opening. I'm pretty sure 99.9999% of people won't be offended, I won't publish the apology videos just yet 😄

[@cantfindclips]

Say “Railway” instead.

[@BoulderCreekRailroad]

LOL I say both 🤣