A New Bespoke Shoemaker Born In The U.S.A!

Francis Waplinger is a bespoke shoemaker from NYC who does everything himself; from the measurements, lasts, and crafting, his work is incredible! Let's meet him and learn about his process!
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Contact Francis Waplinger
Website: www.franciswaplinger.com/
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Let's Meet A Bespoke Shoemaker from NYC!
00:00 Introduction
02:40 Francis' Inspiration
05:17 Black Captoe Oxford
6:51 Burgundy Captoe Oxford
7:35 Museum Calf Captoe Oxford
8:41 Tan Derby
10:19 Francis' Journey into Bespoke
14:20 Francis' Methodology
18:29 Why Go Bespoke?
24:13 What's Your Process?
34:17 How to Reach Francis
36:14 Prices
37:36 What Is Francis Wearing?
38:58 Italian VS American Process
42:05 Francis' Goals
43:06 Closing
WHAT IS KIRBY WEARING
Tie: bit.ly/3DI15Vs
Pocket Square: bit.ly/3DHm4ay
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FAQ’s www.kirbyallison.com/faq

[@111ImNumber1]

The US needs more bespoke shoemakers. The US is the largest bespoke shoe market, so it makes sense to have more bespoke shoemakers

[@kirbyallison]

Exciting to see Francis’s work. It is really quite remarkable!

[@plugejike5721]

U are correct...am a bespoke shoemaker based in lagos nigeria

[@Deezhan]

This generation is too afraid of physical labour. They all want office jobs.

[@CYBERNYCAUTO]

Nanucella in Brooklyn IC is Bespoke Boot company check them out

[@allenwinston9225]

@@kirbyallison thank you for your chanel. I am looking to start a foundation that can offer scholarships and start up funds to Satorial artisans for US citizens.

[@TrashfordKent]

thanks for highlighting this and giving Francis a platform to show his work.

[@kirbyallison]

We love supporting quality, craftsmanship, and tradition! Especially from small, independent artisans!

[@amadejpesko]

Great to see some new faces in the world of bespoke shoes.

[@kirbyallison]

Agreed!

[@jjo3949]

New face. Step here Kirby -offers body-. Keep it up; the fittings, the jovial scenes, the dense testosterone air of wealth and honest fun. The bespoke artisan shoes and measurements is better than Netflix and pills😩

[@rob379lqz]

Impressed. Thank-you Kirby, and Guest FRANCIS.

[@wizaxed]

Kirby - You ask great questions. Great interview of this guy! Those are some really nice looking shoes!

[@VickyDIncecco]

Yay Francis! Well deserved! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻

[@paulthompson8642]

I'm here for the passion absolutely love and somebody finds what they love to do to help others

[@SOLENOID4]

Congratulations both !

[@zagoista1]

Great video. Love to see this

[@davidpoel1021]

Beatiful shoes and really original!

[@trevorbain4637]

Grea video once again Kirby. Does Dominic Casey not do the full process himself in England?

[@francisstephen999]

The saddle shoe is really good, a traditional American aesthetic and very stylish and elegant!

[@philmartinez1872]

Very happy to see this being from NY

[@TitusGidel]

As a Shoemaker from KENYA 🇰🇪 I do like this

[@jakeMontejo3272]

Always interesting videos. I will probably never be a part of this world, but the topics are interesting- nonetheless. This gent, compared to the other cobblers, seems to be the youngest and most unrefined on camera, but you can feel his passion.

[@caseyjonesbklyn5796]

Good interview

[@professorpelotard7925]

A very pleasant chat indeed

[@fokkelman64231]

Beautiful!

[@JAG214]

Great video and glad you are from Dallas, TX like myself because I am born, raise and live in Dallas

[@vaughnreedjr6592]

Oak Cliff

[@gregorythomas2674]

Trained in the right place for style. Will check this guy out for sure! Interesting conversation. Many American brands were top shelf back in their day. I even have an older pair of AEs that are just amazing. Leather like butter and just flawless. Sadly today AEs are poorly made and I buy elsewhere. Looking forward to seeing what he has here in the good ol' USA!

[@kirbyallison]

The older AE stuff is really exceptional. Definitely something to hold onto.

[@gregorythomas2674]

@@kirbyallisonCheers to that! Great conversation with Francis! Keep the great videos coming!

[@Iberian247]

Hello Kirby, maybe when you begin traveling overseas again, you can visit Casa Fagliano. Yes they make mostly boots, but they also make oxfords, JLC Reverso straps, etc. I think it’d be a great trip for your team and a nice interview.

[@ericrickert3045]

This was a really nice explanation of this process. At this time, a bespoke shoe is outside of my budget, but I certainly do want to have them at some point. My primary takeaway, for now, was about shoe trees. I had to pause this video to look at your 27 Jul 2018 video about the shoe trees. Here is what I learned: I use shoe trees, but I use them incorrectly (darn...)--I was not using them with shoes tied (I have a few loafers so those are ok). Every Allen Edmonds shoe I have that is re-crafted I always pay extra for the shoe tree (ensures I get one that fits my shoe). The reason I took note of this was I saw the shoes with shoe trees in and the shoes were tied. I think though, that my shoe trees are somewhat effective, but I am modifying how I use them now to get the desired result. Meanwhile, I will check out your shoe trees and try them. Thanks for all you do!!

[@up3371]

This is awesome

[@Iberian247]

The widow’s peak feature on the captoes is certainly unique.

[@pedrovilchez1688]

Hope one day can buy the reddish shoes .just beautiful

[@StarWarriorMusic]

Francis is probably my best bet to have the ultra rare vintage City Club model i want. i bet he would be able to make the ones i want (or at least get super close to them). I will always want a pair of originals but they are basically un-findable.

[@uptowned]

I have more than 200 pairs of bespoke shoes at home and I still can't get enough! Have you ever heard of the old master "Ramadan Deral" from Istanbul? You should visit him as well!

[@maxhearld1035]

Kirby to my knowledge you have never done anything on fine revolvers a classic gentleman definitely carried a fine revolver

[@ericday4505]

I love great shoes I kind of grew up on Allen Edmonds and Cole Haan, I am looking to grab some Carmina's, but I really don't want to drive all the way to NYC I live in north Philadelphia, I am going to try King Of Prussia Mall, but my searches online did not turn out well. I just can't see me shopping on line without trying on a pair of $600-500 pair of shoes. Are there not any Carminas in southeastern PA, or do I have to make that trip up I95 to NYC?

[@robbhereford6381]

I have to drive up from Alabama...

[@abdulazizal-thibaiti6517]

How long has he been working in the US ? He did 3 years in Florence + ?!

[@andrewcaplen5088]

Is there an affordable bespoke shoe Kirby?

[@mattiasx4623]

Great

[@rsforpr0s]

Love the suit color and fabric? Could you tell what it is precisely?

[@relandoronato]

God bless America!!!!

[@irawanwijaya7951]

Wow...he should be an American national treasure

[@juicebox86]

Everybody knows that is actually Justin Tucker from the Baltimore Ravens.

[@bryancheron6902]

Wait, so his goal is 24 pairs of shoes a year. Even if all of those are first-time clients, meaning $3,200 each, that's a gross revenue of only $76,800. Then he has to pay for materials, equipment, not to mention whatever a shop in New York costs. How is he surviving on this?

[@jlozano2014]

He's just getting started, wouldn't doubt his prices go closer to 4500 - 5000 sooner rather than later

[@acresofcosmos7563]

This is why there aren’t many bespoke shoemakers. It’s just not realistic to imagine making a living from in most cases. Also imagine how much money he had to spend to live and study full time in Italy for 3 years on top of that. It’s not something 99% of people would see as a worthwhile investment. Even if you’re the most passionate person in the world regarding the craft, at some point, it just doesn’t work.

[@TheJellyfish703]

That’s a polarising hairstyle, just like the shoes.

[@karldelavigne8134]

It's not a flattering hairstyle, which is a shame as he could present far better. But it's his choice 🤷‍♂️

[@HamiltonRb]

You are buying his shoes, not his hair

[@MichaelOssen]

First!

[@jackeddemon]

This is semi-bespoke if he starts with a premade last. But Kirby didn’t care??

[@kirbyallison]

Not really… most all the bespoke makers start with a rough turn. Helps improve consistency.

[@jackeddemon]

@@kirbyallison Kirby, I love you but by definition this guy is semi-bespoke. Don’t disrespect the maestros of England and Italy

[@brianlippert6096]

Where in ny is he post his phone an address

[@supersonique001]

I just hate being a 'Charlie Munger' but think about it : 2 pairs of Waplingers= $6400, $6400=16 pairs of Allen Edmond(factory new), life expectancy 20 years each with proper care , 320 years wear ability and less boredom than with only 2 pair of shoes!!! Hummm....really? Just saying !

[@kirbyallison]

Certainly bespoke shoes are for the person who seeks a higher caliber shoe than what AE puts out… but with proper shoe care and resoling, you can certainly get 20 years out of a pair of AE’s.

[@supersonique001]

@@kirbyallison Agreed but my point is at what cost, at one point the law of diminishing returns takes effect and it no longer makes any sense unless of course money is no object and you perceive it to be important to you, don't get me wrong I enjoy the finer things in life otherwise I would not appreciate your site and core values and endorse many of your passions only not 'blindly' . Cheers, Michel.

[@HamiltonRb]

I suppose I looked at the financial part from his end, but he commented that he only makes two pairs a month, that is $6400 a month, minus the cost of the material, and other expenses, which hardly seems profitable. Not sure if I am missing something here?

[@Laverntempleton]

Part of the appeal to bespoke is supporting the preservation of the craft and the artisans.

[@HamiltonRb]

@@Laverntempleton Still trying to make a living and the math doesn't add up to much after expenses?

[@albertspencer5264]

American made, Americans paid! 🙈🙉🙊

[@dqalombardi]

The thumbnail does disjustice to the shoes he makes.

[@greghart6310]

Hey send me some cash instead of blowing so much on your wardrobe!

[@emoney2480]

Go work

[@WeltedWare]

Well worthy of your consideration is Bob Bautista (RAB Bespoke) , also @skives_the_limit, who is doing bespoke makes and fits out of Seattle. Trained in the UK and a great traditional maker