A new Neat-lac is available. Does it work like the old Neat-lac leather finish?

I really like Neat-lac as a finish for leather carvings that I plan to leave natural color. I bought several quarts of it when it was discontinued and still have part of one left. I went to look for a substitute for when it ran out and saw that Tandy was selling a new product labeled as Neat-lac. I could not find much online where anyone was talking about how it worked, so I decide to get some of it and compare it to the old stuff. I hope this helps someone out if they are also considering this as a leather finish.
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[@eksine]

so the old neat lac is oil or solvent based and the new one is water based. the new one has a color in it because otherwise it would have no color. this is to reproduce the darkening of the old neat lac. Thanks for the comparison, very informative

[@homeyv]

thank you!

[@agarfrance9272]

Good to know, thanks!!

[@bransonsgeneralstore]

Thank you

[@derrycksena8718]

I was at thrift store today and came across a box full of old leather goods and there was a new bottle of the old stuff so I had to watch your video on do’s and donts but I can definitely see difference on both samples thanks

[@bransonsgeneralstore]

Very cool! Thanks for watching!

[@barbarianleatherandblades8686]

I have an old can of neat-lac too and it lasts a long time but it finally started to harden in the can and turned a dark color. Just triedbto use it this week and it was no good bummer.

[@eksine]

the solvents evaporated, just find out what that is and add it to the can and shake or stir, like new

[@bodeine454]

Thanks for the info! 👍 I wanted to know if you could give me some advice on how to finish some leather motorcycle handlebar grips that I'm making out of leather. The plan is to carve something into them as well as probably some tool stamping and then some oil dying and antiquing, not sure if I should use an antique gel, paste or what kind or if it's a bad idea to antique something that's going to be handled a lot. And then the finish, another leather crafter suggested Saddle Lac but I read in a comment on a completely different video that Saddle Lac can crack and peel so I'm not sure if that's the best option. What is your opinion on the best way for me to finish these?

[@bransonsgeneralstore]

If you ask five leather workers about finishes you will probably get six different answers. I prefer spraying finishes over antique stains rather than wipe on finishes. My go to is Fiebing's spray leather sheen. Saddle lac is too glossy for my preference so I don't have a lot of experience with it. for dyed leather without antique I usually use Fiebing's Acrylic Resolene, but I have had wipe on finishes like that leave swirls when used over antiques. I have had good results with using antique on items that are handled a lot. My preference is the gel antiques, I think they are easier to work with, but some people prefer the paste. Fiebings Oil dyes, which I think are now being sold as pro dye, are my current favorite dyes. To sum all that up what I would probably do. Carve, Oil dye, Maybe use a clear finish like super sheen or Neat lac as a resist. Let the finish dry overnight to be sure it is completely dry. Then Gel antique just to highlight the carving or stamping and after that is dry spray with Leather Sheen.

[@homeyv]

It looks like the consistancy of Resolene? I am deciding on what top finish I should be using. I am making wallets and things that bend a lot. Would this be a good product?

[@bransonsgeneralstore]

It is thinner than Resolene. This has held up well on the projects I have used it on. I also use Resolene thinned with some water on most of what I make. Leather Sheen is good as well. There are two versions of it a spray can and a wipe on liquid. Generally I have found that leather quality makes a big difference. Any finish seems to work well on good leather. I have seen finish peel off of pieces made from the cheap import sides.

[@JoyinFlorida]

Do you have a recommendation for a couch? I always buy waxed finished because of the easier clean with my dogs but THIS time it slipped my mind and not knly is it NOT waxed, but I bought light grey. Its a nightmare lol. Am I able to re create some sort of wax finish on it??

[@bransonsgeneralstore]

I don't know how to help with that. You would have to somehow remove the light grey finish. That may not be possible without damaging the leather. You can contact the manufacturer of the product and see if they have any advice.

[@JoyinFlorida]

@@bransonsgeneralstore I appreciated your input and the MORE I've been researching it, the more you spend correct. I may just cut my losses and sell it :(((

[@mattsmith1737]

Talking to someone at my local Tandy when it first came out said it works well unless it’s something that bends a lot it can/will crack. Any idea on that? I never used the old stuff idk how it did with bending either.

[@bransonsgeneralstore]

I didn't have any problems with cracking. Cracks are usually caused by the leather being old, dried out, or just poorly tanned. The alcohol solvent dyes can also dry a piece out.

[@mattsmith1737]

@@bransonsgeneralstore it wasn’t the leather cracking it was the finish. According to the Tandy employee.

[@bransonsgeneralstore]

I will admit I am just guessing. I have not had it crack on anything yet so I don't think it is something inherent to the finish. It could be technique or leather quality that caused it. I have seen finishes crack or peel off of Tandy's Craftsman grade leather because they did not adhere to the surface. Especially common after using dye on it. I worked for Tandy for eight years, and developed a dislike for their cheaper leathers. Especially since that was the leather they where using in their kits at that time. My bias against those cheap south American Quebracho tanned sides could be why I assume it was the leather that caused it.

[@ematt85]

I learned how to make stockwhips and bullwhips from someone in Tasmania, AU. He used the older neat lac when it was available and thinned it down to 50%. Nothing is going to flex and move more than a whip and it worked amazingly well without the plastic look of shellac commonly used on leather goods. If the employee said that and the newer version of the neat lac does that then it was because the newer version is not as good due to more than likely the ingredients changing to meet newer environmental standards, etc. My mentor used neat lac for years and never had an issue and I still use it too. It is now rebranded by LCI as clear lac. There is a specific thinner for it still as well. This is the company that used to make it for Tandy. Many of the new products no matter what they are made to meet new regulations these days which removes ingredients that may have been found slightly dangerous over the years, (take that with a grain of salt) but unfortunately without them the product doesn't work as well. Leather workers, (saddle makers, cobblers, etc) have used a type of glue called barge cement for years and years. The original stuff came in a red and yellow can with a dauber like PVC glue does. It had toulouene in it and once they weren't allowed to use toulouene anymore they rebranded the barge cement in a blue and black tube that's available everywhere including craft stores. Guess what, it doesn't work anywhere near as good as the original formula. Hope this helps. If there's anything else let send me a message if you'd like. Also, keep in mind too that if leather itself, whether it's a flexible item or not is cracking, that's an entirely different problem altogether.

[@bransonsgeneralstore]

When I made the video about it I couldn't find a supplier for clear lac. And Barry King's Wyosheen was unavailable indefinitely. Both are supposed to be identical to neat lac and made by LCI. It can be a bit of an Internet scavenger hunt to find them. My comparison was to see if the stuff I could get with a half hour drive would work for what I do. As far as Barge cement goes I still buy and use the old yellow and red version of it and can buy it locally. Depending on the environmental laws where you are that might not be possible. I do agree that the blue can Barge AP doesn't seem to work as well especially on wet leather.