Finishing Vegetable Tanned Leather w/ Neatsfoot Oil and Tan Kote -

There's almost too many ways to finish leather, it gets confusing. Here's a simple finish for natural vegetable tanned leather that will condition and seal it beautifully for years and years of use.
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[@christianmatchett1442]

Yeah, the number of options for conditioning & finishing is one of the most frustrating things for folks just starting out. Thank you for being so open to sharing your knowledge and experience with the community!!

[@whitandpark]

I totally relate to that. Thanks for watching Christian:)

[@garyhammond2213]

I refinished a saddle one time using 100% pure Needsfoot oil and topped off with Tan Kote. It came out beautiful.

[@V3leathercraft]

I use 2 part beeswax & 2 part cocoa butter melted well in hot pan and in simmer heat, i mix 1 part extra virgin olive oil in it. Then wait it solidify in room temperature for applying and rub it after 30minutes.👌👌🙏🙏 It really works well giving good shine and condition 👌👌

[@whitandpark]

awesome tip, thank you!

[@FatManLeather]

I'm a fan of the oil and tankote finish and have been doing it for several years, the patina it gets with age is beautiful.

[@critterpower]

Thank you so much! Such a critical part of the leatherworking process- Nobody explains it, it's always skipped for some stupid reason. Your input helped a lot!

[@bombshelterleather777]

Olive oil is my preferred choice. Great tip vid.

[@londonjacks8371]

I always use 100% pure Neatsfoot oil followed by a Tan-kote finish, brings out the natural beauty of the leather, using a scrap of sheepskin for the application works well.

[@whitandpark]

Yeah I go back and forth between 100% and prime. I haven't noticed a huge difference between them, what are your thoughts on that?

[@londonjacks8371]

@@whitandpark I’ve only ever used the 100% pure Neatsfoot, the prime has petroleum additives in it and that doesn’t seem to me to be a good thing to add to the leather, just my opinion of course, I tend to stick with a product if it works for me.

[@jaleatherworks4425]

Man sure love the end of video and seeing how humble you are. To want to help others really is a blessing

[@AnonYmous-ii4tc]

That beautiful work man. Thanks for the shared knowledge.

[@RogerF]

Helped me a lot. Great video. Thank you!

[@bmanparacord1876]

You were the one to inspire me to get into leather working.

[@whitandpark]

wow that's awesome, thank you!

[@ANONIE47]

Beautiful items, beautiful finish, and a very nice video. Thank you 🙂 .

[@LibertyGraphicDesigns]

that's an awesome item!! looks amazing

[@whitandpark]

Thank you!

[@juliangonzales2916]

Excelente acabado👍👍👍

[@saulcantu347]

hanks for the great tip. Awesome

[@kensmapleleafretirement]

Thanks for the video, I made a Belt yesterday and 2 sheaths a couple of days ago. I just wanted to see how to apply Tan-Kote. I put it on and let it dry as it says on the bottle, but it turned out sticky and caked on, so I assume it has to be buffed off while wet... I will give that a try. I subbed and Liked it. I do mainly Blacksmith work on my channel. Leather is a side project... Thanks for the demo, man...

[@randyreichert5911]

Thanks for the video. Would you do anything differently if the leather was dyed beforehand?

[@johnbhancock]

Thanks for the great tip. After I have done the final finish with Tan-kote I give it a rub down with Dubbin. I use a local one Joseph Lyddy which is economical and gives it a really nice supple finish.

[@johnbhancock]

@@hakimmohamad6216 yes but not as readily. Also the conditioner helps protect it. I also reapply conditioner regularly.

[@stevebuckskinner5482]

I used to know a saddlemaker that used vegetable oil all the time.

[@whitandpark]

Yeah it seems to be pretty popular with saddle makers

[@FatManLeather]

That's interesting, my understanding is that vegetable oil will go rancid over time and actually cause the leather to rot. Coconut and olive oil don't get rancid nor do mink or neatsfoot oils. I might have to look into this more.

[@the_filthy_mcnastiest6803]

Really appreciate your videos. I just bought my first veg tan leather shoes. How often do you recondition your leather products? Once again. Love your videos friend

[@bananaeater4332]

for how long do you wait for the oil to dry? i have no idea on what time to leave between coats and products... im getting started...

[@meriecuir3838]

thanks for video , is nets foot oil pure or compound

[@Rocky-ji6cj]

Tan coat seals it but does it affect the absorbtion of more neatsfoot in the future since the leather was sealed with tan coat?

[@stilljustaguy]

What color are you using for the edgekote?

[@rubentovar5957]

Nice work. Where did you get the Leather from? And what size is this.

[@thundercell13]

So what’s the difference between applying an oil or a conditioner? Do you oil first then tancote and then a conditioner is later applied when the leather needs some love and new protection?

[@enriqueballejo4823]

What’s better prime neatsfoot or 100%?

[@toliodor8769]

what's the thickness of leather of this item?

[@jensrb50]

Not a fan of pure neatsfootoil .It will go rancid/oxidize.BUT the low melting point makes it soak in beautiful so I mix in ascorbic acid to make it shelf stable .I also ad some synthetic oils to dilute the neatsfootoil because it has a lot of unsaturated fats.

[@colt5189]

How long does neatsfoot oil stay fresh before it goes rancid after opening? And how can you tell it's gone rancid?

[@jensrb50]

@@colt5189 you can't tell by the smell of the oil .It takes quite some time to get rancid in a tin can . Just don't store it in a hot room or clear container with sun exposure. If it doesn't take up room maybe in a fridge but it's probably overkill. Air and heat makes it go rancid . Soaked into leather makes it more stable than on its own . You can add a bit of mineral oil and tea tree oil and it won't go rancid. Mineral oil kills bacteria and some mold for cheap . That's why neatsfootoil compound exists . Obenaufs is pretty good 👍

[@russellharrison619]

So do you use unfinished leather for each of your products? I mean instead of getting W&C finished or another brand that's been finished already.

[@whitandpark]

It just depends on the item. We sell products in Buck Brown Harness leather, Chestnut bridle, Black Skirting, Hot Dipped Harness, etc...Natural veg is just one of the things we use:)

[@Glorfindel_117]

I'm new to the craft and was told by the employee at Tandy to use Tan-Kote as a finish for my mystery braid bracelets and belt since its more flexible than Resolene is. I used brown dye, Golden Mink Oil, and then Tan-Kote as he suggested but the instant my belt got wet, the dye started bleeding off. Since then I've started using Resolene since I heard from other people it's a bit more water resistant, but I havent gotten any of those items wet yet so idk if thats true. Any ideas of why this happened, or if this is normal? I dont really want to be making things for myself (or selling them) if its just gonna be instantly destroyed be a light misting of water. I'll just buy a factory made item thats 100% waterproof...

[@TheUndergroundRave]

I will say the first project I made I used and alcohol based leather dye and spray on Fiebing's leather sheen and it bled a lot every time it got wet. Second project I used an oil based Fiebing's dye and Leather balm and they don't bleed at all. I think the difference is using an oil based dye and good top coat

[@abarasabwehttam]

Fiebing Pro Dye and Resolene is what I use on all my items and they do not bleed.

[@Jlayism]

Have you personally ever used tan kote over dye? I've had issues in the past of it not locking in the color, so I quit using it and have been using acrylic top coats..that I hate.. I dread applying the acrylic stuff.

[@whitandpark]

i don't have a lot of experience dying leather in general. So it's possible i'd have the same issues. But as for oil, I feel like Tan kote does a great job

[@Jlayism]

@@whitandpark I'll give it another go. Thanks.

[@FatManLeather]

I was having the same issues with dyed leather and Tankote, I started applying neatsfoot oil after dye and let it dry before Tankote and it seems to work out much better.

[@Jlayism]

@@FatManLeather hey, thanks!

[@franotoole2702]

Tankote is probably the worst finnish ever invented. It pics up everything, from dye to antique. It also washes off, so its not ideal for sheaths. Resolene is a far better product, and is one of the best water resist finishes out there. although you do need to spray it on if your antiquing as it will pick up antique like tankote. I mix it 50/50 with water, makes it go on better so you dont get a heavy coat.

[@siham7010]

Whats about chrome tan Sir? Thanks for videos and Happy Holidays.

[@whitandpark]

Different treatment for chrome tan. Maybe i'll do a separate video

[@whitandpark]

P.S Happy holidays! and thanks for watching;)

[@siham7010]

@@whitandpark kindly do. Please please.

[@mw3designs]

How long after applying the Neatsfoot oil do you apply the Tan Kote?

[@Canadaman4403]

.. ??

[@colt5189]

Did you ever find this out?

[@mw3designs]

@@colt5189 I did not

[@colt5189]

@@mw3designs What I plan to do is dye the flesh side with Pro Oil dye. Then wait a day, do the neatsfoot oil, wait a day or so. Then do Seiwa Tokonole sealer on the flesh side using a piece of glass to smooth out the flesh side. Then flip it over and dye the grain side, wait a day, do neatsfood oil, wait a day, then use my waterbased sealer on the top grain side. As I don't like real shiny sealers. Then after that I punch the leather for my spots, and then cut it out, and then dye the edges. Though, I'll probably punch and cut out the leather before I finish the top grain side with my waterbased sealer. I did tests where I first punch out my slits for my spots. And then dyed, etc. and stuff got through the slits to the other side.

[@camiladovalle9311]

❤

[@jerryduncan1585]

Lexol is good for leather

[@thomasbeckett1245]

I prefer coconut butter 🧈, because it’s not going to go rancid like olive oil’s

[@stanhegeman8751]

Try Legolas, baby.

[@OakmanNZ]

Olive oil spoils over time. Don't use it

[@cyclone538]

Let’s go first one to comment lol

[@whitandpark]

haha nice work!

[@cyclone538]

Let’s goo, got my morning brew and time to finish up some craft

[@dancanta8592]

olive oil will go rancid, fact. That's not what you want in leather...

[@franotoole2702]

Tankote is probably the worst finnish ever invented. Its fine for plain color leathers thatbare not subject to weather. It pics up everything, from dye to antique so when your wiping it your project will be smeared, almost impossible to save. It also washes off, so its not ideal for sheaths. Resolene is a far better product, and is one of the best water resist finishes out there. although you do need to spray it on if your antiquing as it will pick up antique like tankote. I mix it 50/50 with water, makes it go on better so you dont get a heavy coat.

[@mylastlight]

I used resolene on my project that had an antique and it did pick it up, now with your comment I'm gonna try spraying it! Thanks