A New Take on the Full Bust Adjustment

[@stevezytveld6585]

Thank you. This is the clearest explanation I've seen for FBA's. Thank you. I will be coming back to this video allot. - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

[@alexandraarellano8823]

I’ve been searching for such an adjustment forever . So glad I stumbled soon this . Thank you so much!!

[@IvyRosethebus]

Brilliant! Thank you

[@tamipugh3377]

In a class I took they had you make the adjustment opposite of what you did. We increased on the arm side of the pattern. Which did not work. Thank you so much. I can see what you did would really work. So much better.

[@VAPiper]

This is a wonderful tutorial that saves so many steps in adjusting a bodice. Less trial and error. So helpful. Thank you.

[@keviny5196]

I've seen many kinds of adjustment but never considered doing it this way. I'm excited to try it!

[@nervengewitter]

I know this video is a few years old, but I still want to thank you for making it! Thanks to this, I had an epiphany with regards to a pattern that only had a shoulder dart. This modification is great because by adding the necessary CF length, you also get the needed additional width. This way, I was finally able to achieve the measurements I had in mind. With other methods, I would get too much width right below the armpit, where I am fairly flat, since my breast volume sits lower.

[@EuphemiaGrubb]

You are the first person I've come across to explain that the waist does not have to increase with a FBA. It seems to be accepted if the bust is bigger then the waist must be. Thank you so much for showing this is not the case.

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

You're welcome!

[@maxineprobst8899]

This is exactly what I needed for a vintage pattern with only a shoulder dart! Thank you!

[@susiejones3201]

thanks so much for your wonderful , expertly and clearly explained, videos!!!!!!!!!

[@paulaperedocordeiro2545]

Very helpful video!! thank you so much!!

[@LindaKay-v9v]

Very helpful you Explained well

[@renejames8207]

hello Alexandra. Thank you for explaining "what to do with the block pattern" from last week. 😘💐👌

[@StitchesSeams]

You're a very good teacher, thank you for sharing.

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

Thank you!

[@airenlumangtad6284]

Stitches & Seams thank u this is helpful to my work. More power and god bless

[@normagates1562]

Kh

[@normagates1562]

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[@normagates1562]

I'll

[@eileenfb1948]

Thank you - baggy , gaping armholes. This looks a much better way to deal with it. Thank you.

[@Khadija.B.]

Very happy to discover your channel😊. Thanks so much for this GREAT video.

[@wendyalfaro7367]

Wow, yessssss. It makes so much sense now. Thank you so much for this informative video.

[@janicek6399]

Thanks, I needed to watch a couple of times to get the method in my head, but it works great!

[@manishgrover4116]

Very informative video...thanks

[@jamesraczkowski6441]

Perfectly explained! Now I get it. Thanks!

[@getachewkassa9942]

wow! Thank you so much for this informative video.

[@carollavallee2040]

Thank you

[@momzilla9491]

Hi Alexandra, greetings from just North of Ryerson. Now you know who I am! Although my two attempts at sewing a commercial pattern haven't worked out, I have already learned how to draft a fitted bodice. When I know that we are going to need a full bust adjustment, should I use a shorter High Point Shoulder to waist measurement in my draft first? The b.a. will raise my Shoulder Height almost an inch and that is going to create extra bulk through the upper chest that I don't need. What I am learning is every adjustment to an already sewn garment causes an effect somewhere else. LOL I am working very hard to keep my projects out of the Landfill!

[@AS-rc1jr]

Muchas gracias por mostrar esta técnica, ha sido de mucha ayuda,👍👍👍

[@bnyzhny]

Thank you, sooo much, Alexandra. The pattern fits me reasonably well elsewhere. Love your clear direct teaching style, and I believe it is only fair to warn you that IF such an exHAUSting reality as reincarnation exists (I hope to God, NO), I get first dibs on your elegant voice :)

[@tracyheaton7995]

Lovely clear explanation. Thank you

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

Awesome, thank you!

[@normagates1562]

how do l find sexy lingerie?

[@jessica5391]

Thanks! I've always avoided FBAs and you made them look simple!

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

You're welcome! Thanks for commenting!

[@lamachinacoudre]

Thank you; This is very helpful to me

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

You're welcome!

[@puledressdesigns]

Thank you for sharing this!

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

You're welcome.

[@janicek6399]

Thank you so much, this explained just what I needed to know!

[@jeanetteh6842]

Most helpful information clearly presented thank you

[@mansbridgepenny]

Thank you this was so helpful, and your video on dartless full bust adjustment was great to ;-)

[@CC-yz3ud]

Excellent video! Thanks so much!

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

+Cally Cycleuse Awesome! I'm glad you liked it!

[@bernadettepierre7935]

What if the pattern doesn't contain a shoulder dart? Do you just put a slash line through the shoulder?

[@saharkaddah8737]

Thank you very much That you have explaned a mistereose things to me. For give me for the weak english.

[@janicek6399]

Thanks, this did help me to figure out how to fix the gaps 😀

[@TC-rg3iw]

Could you please show us how to make a full bust adjustment on a pattern with a cut on sleeve like NewLook 6217 B?

[@mohammadshoaib1464]

Helpful Tutorial. Thank you

[@kay2577]

This is really good! Thank you!

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

+Kay G Great! So glad you like it!

[@susanstone969]

Thanks for this, my front piece now fits my bust much better. However, now I find that the shoulder piece at the front is a good inch wider than the shoulder piece on the back...so how do I match the two pieces together when I sew? I have a narrow back and large bust so don't want to increase the back width at the shoulder? Any tips you can share? Thank you.

[@Thelazylizzie]

great tutorial thank you so much

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

You're so welcome!

[@madebymeah]

Amazing tutorial! I have scoured the internet beyond belief. I have just drafted my first bodice block as being petite with small waist and larger bust, commercial patterns are a nightmare. A couple of beginner questions for you: with your second method, I increased my neck to apex length. Do I now need to extend my shoulder dart to my bustline or is there supposed to a gap between the two dart point and the apex? x

[@nataliebrown1647]

How would you do this with a bodice with just a bust dart? Or a low bust dart?

[@hjkennaugh]

That was lovely and clear but what happens if you don’t have a shoulder dart please?

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

You can see this video: inhousepatterns.com/blogs/news/another-new-take-on-the-full-bust-adjustment

[@siamese35]

So you would just sew the darts at the new spread out width?

[@kathleenflint1466]

The commercial pattern that I am using does not have the "bust symbol or a bust line. If I use my "shoulder to bust point measurement" will that be close enough to make the full bust adjustments? Thank you

[@queenododo4499]

Thanks very much for this video. If I am doing a full bust adjustment where I need to add a large amount to the pattern, say 7cm, will this still work? Won't the pattern be distorted? And which of the methods would you recommend for larger amounts?

[@oluwatobiolubiyi8042]

Thank you for this question but unfortunately it wasn't answered. Pls may I ask which method you adopted for the 7cm extra needed? Thanks you

[@queenododo4499]

It's been a while, but I think I went ahead and added the 7cm, the pattern wasn't as distorted as I thought it would be

[@sirpanurmela7774]

It's little bit hard to understand inch. I'm from Finland and we works with cm. I have to look all yours videos. You learn very good. Even if I don't understand everything thing. Thank you. 🌸

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

Sirpa Nurmela, yes I often forget to give both measurements but 1 inch is equal to 2.54 cm. Hope that helps!

[@謝孟真-l7t]

Good

[@nishavi1]

Dear Alexandra, I hope u r doing well. I have a curious query!! It's about easing required in the pattern of a deep neck, fitted blouse of waist length. In the above-mentioned kind of pattern, does the easing needed in the bust circumference vary with respect to the high bust circumference of a body. That is, if the high bust of a pattern is 32", the ease needed in the bust has to be lesser than that which is needed for the pattern with 42" high bust. thanks in advance :)

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

The high bust girth does not relate to the pattern precisely. It is used as a measure to estimate cup size but cup size. Have you watched the series on contour darts? kzbin.info/aero/PLWvNxSS04DxDu0ShPas2QzDnTmqpaRAWu

[@suhanas9783]

Thank u

[@barbaraferron7994]

What about a G cup i find thay when I do FBA attempting spread it that far that i get distortions that throw the grain lines off and gives the arm hole a crazy shape.

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

You can do a Y cup size adjustment and add an additional slash line that extends from bust point to shoulder point.

[@barbaraferron7994]

@@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns thank you. Where on the shoulder? In the center of the shoulder dart? And do the hinge points change?

[@sirpanurmela7774]

Do I understand right that the cup numbers different is 9 mm from B-C C-D9mm. D-E9mm. =+2,7 cm if I have E- Cup.

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

Sirpa Nurmela 3/8” is equal to 1cm😀

[@navyachandrika977]

Awesome explanation. Which part of armhole s the red line actually? (is it half of arm hole?) similarly, for shoulder please. Thanks!

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

Hi Navya, the slash line at the armhole is usually at the deepest part of the curve or about 1/3 of the armhole. The shoulder slash line in this example is going through the center of the dart.

[@navyachandrika977]

Alexandra Morgan thanks for the quick response. Regards, Navya.

[@dorothyfielding8209]

❤️

[@sandralisboa2660]

Muito bom.

[@bnyzhny]

My fitting problem is a gaping front armhole when I pinch it out a three inch dart forms How many three eighths measures must I add in applying your first technique Thank you

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

Hi Bonnie, if you have a 3" dart forming at the armhole, this could indicate that there is more than one fitting issue present. You might want to make a full bust adjustment based on your bra cup size to start with and then see what the resulting armhole gape looks like. Alternatively, you can slash your sample according to the slash lines in the video and pin fabric into the openings that occur, this is how much you'll need to add to your paper pattern.

[@marysinclair1917]

hi Alexandra, im confused, I have learned about fba's and adjust the bust ,and grading up, do I do all three when altering the size or just one. I am a c cup+ and size 28 UK (53" bust)

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

Hi Mary, it really depends on what the pattern measures compared to your body and what your fitting garment is telling you. I recommend measuring the pattern and seeing how it compares to your body before making any adjustments. From there you can decide if you need a larger or smaller size. Once the pattern is close to what you need you can assess other areas. You can check out my Fitting Fundamentals series here on my channel for more info.

[@beth12svist]

Doesn't the second method change the length of the side seam in the front when you straighten it?

[@AlexandraMorganInHousePatterns]

Hi Beth! You've got a great eye! Yes, it will change the length of the front side seam slightly so it's a good idea to check to see what the difference is. To correct you can bring the base of the front armhole up to bring the measurement back to it's original or you can keep the side seam slightly curved, you just want to smooth out the seam line so that there isn't a corner there. Hope that helps!

[@謝孟真-l7t]

GOOD

[@sourivongkhemphet5252]

👍👍👍🙏

[@mehadijamal879]

nice how to dart making professional