A SuperSlicer Super Deep Dive!!

[@StevePrior]

I'm just starting to try SuperSlicer after using exclusively S3D for years and years. The things I'm trying to wrap my head around with SuperSlicer are: - The patterns they draw on the bed for Voron and Sidewinder X1 make my eyes bleed - how to remove that without starting from scratch. - How to define settings for a printer that doesn't have presets (in my case a MakerGear M2 and Monoprice Mini Delta, for example I created a MakerGear M2 profile that works but is much slower than my S3D M2 profile was so I'm missing stuff) - How to organize settings at the printer/filament/print level so you reuse more general settings as much as possible across nozzle sizes, layer heights, and filaments. - How to translate S3D settings you've been happy with into starter SuperSlicer settings. A Rosetta Stone from S3D to SuperSlicer would be awesome! - Basically any help in how to think like SuperSlicer wants you to if your head was shaped by S3D.

[@3DMusketeers]

For the patterns, you can delete the picture they use in Printer Settings> Bed Shape. There you can upload your own texture and model, It can be whatever you want. For a printer without presets you would add a custom printer in the wizard menu You can have filament overrides that will override the normal numbers for retraction and more, this is found under Filament Settings. You can also make a few different settings under Print Settings that can be purely custom per machine and using dependencies you can ensure that settings for the Delta wont show up for the M2 Most of the settings are pretty similar, but SuperSlicer has WAY more than S3D. Do note, the coast feature is absent and more or less replaced with the wipe settings. It is not a full coast, but it works fine. If we get enough people asking for a way to transfer over we may do that video, however I uninstalled S3D when PrusaSlicer 2.4 went into Beta because at this point, there is no reason to use it anymore in my opinion. Hope this helps! Let me know if you have any other questions! -G

[@hugolatra]

@@3DMusketeers Thank you for that. I found S3D handle the supports better or maybe its easier for my. I´m struggling with supports in SuperSlicer.

[@3DMusketeers]

@@hugolatra When they grab the new paint on snug supports from PS 2.4 it will be MUCH better. So for now, I run PS 2.4 beta 1

[@pffthulu6545]

Underrated channel!

[@3DMusketeers]

Thanks! :)

[@photelegy]

41:18 🌳 So are there some kind of tree-support or something similar in SuperSlicer? I really love them in Cura but want to use SuperSlicer because of other settings.

[@3DMusketeers]

Snug supports are the closest you will get. Personally I find them better than tree, but that's just me.

[@photelegy]

@@3DMusketeers Will they also suppoert from an angle? E.g. if there are multiple U-shapes on top of each other, can it support them alls from the print plate comming from the side?

[@3DMusketeers]

It is known PS is implementing Tree Supports soon. But I do not know. It has never been an issue for me. I just use a good interface distance and I dont have scarring on the top surfaces where support contacts them to support something above

[@MegaAfiss]

I have learned a lot from this video. Thank you very much!

[@3DMusketeers]

absolutely!

[@heeder777]

Support interface on Prusa and Superslicer seem to be to well attached to the model. What setting would you suggest I adjust to make the interface easier to separate?

[@3DMusketeers]

More gap between the interface and the model. Also using the Thin Bridges setting in the 2.4 beta with PrusaSlicer would likely help with that as well. Generally though, if you have issues with the supports breaking off, look at that separation gap. 0.2mm is normal in most slicers.

[@jdsax456]

Found your channel through the TT channel. Love your channel name!

[@3DMusketeers]

Thanks! It's also our business name!

[@gglovato]

just switched to superslicer after Teaching Tech video, and your video is just what i needed to understand some options.

[@3DMusketeers]

Awesome! Glad you liked it!

[@ThatOneStopSign]

Now this is what I've been waiting for! This is awesome.

[@3DMusketeers]

You all asked, we delivered! Enjoy!

[@bradcooper122]

Super Slicer now has the snug support option!

[@3DMusketeers]

Sweet. A year after I make that video LOLOL

[@mrdriver511]

I love brim ears it’s perfect when you print large parts with sharp corners in PETG So the corners won’t lift

[@3DMusketeers]

YES! so good!

[@robertorebola7532]

God damn this video is just EPIC on all scales thank you so much for your time and patience to teach the community and noobs like me

[@3DMusketeers]

Glad we could help!

[@pitdusk8]

You got a subscriber, I really want more of superslicer, like new features and so on.

[@3DMusketeers]

Glad you liked it. Do note though, that video is over a year old, so much has changed.

[@karlh6692]

It was a great video to have going while I tuned the superslicer z probing test prints and filament flow tests.

[@3DMusketeers]

Glad it helped!

[@erikhoogstraten7400]

Does it also support CraftBot 3 printer?? Still strubbeling with the CraftWare slicer…

[@3DMusketeers]

It should support any printer. It's just G-Code. So unless craftbot uses custom file extensions or something, it should work fine. BUT it may not have profiles so you may need to make one.

[@Sembazuru]

If IDEX is for independent DUAL extruder, what is the PrusaXL? IMEX?

[@3DMusketeers]

I guess? Yeah, that tracks

[@GuestBez]

Any chance that super slizer can work with plugin's. Like tree support etc which Cura offers? Thanks, for video.

[@3DMusketeers]

Not that I am aware of.. We will be doing a test on tree vs. other support styles soon!

[@robertstokes8708]

I have only used slic3r tell this week thought id try ps. Then just learned about ss today. Your vid was amazing. I don't see suport pillars in ps or your vid for ss. Or am i just missing it? Thanks

[@3DMusketeers]

Not sure what you mean by support pillars?

[@robertstokes8708]

@@3DMusketeers in slic3r for support pattern you have rectilinear, rectilinear grid, honeycomb, and pillars.

[@3DMusketeers]

oh, that would be support cubic I think?

[@robertstokes8708]

I will play with some settings. Thanks.

[@3DMusketeers]

@@robertstokes8708 Awesome, good luck!

[@giova62gds34]

Is there a way to disable cooling?

[@3DMusketeers]

yeah, in printer settings, set it all to 0

[@thomasyoung8116]

Any idea where I can find the machine settings for SuperSlicer for FLSun Super Racer?

[@3DMusketeers]

It may not be added and you'd have to do that yourself. If FL Sun didn't provide profiles then you'll likely be stuck hoping someone posted one you can use or make one from scratch

[@johnhawkes7681]

Yep Epic video!!! It's gonna take me months to take all this in. Cracking job. Thanks.

[@3DMusketeers]

Thank you!

[@NeilLund]

What is your speedboat challenge SuperSlicer profile?

[@3DMusketeers]

I dont have one. No need for tons of speed here, prefer quality!

[@DWIT3D]

The temp tower feature was a mic-drop moment!

[@3DMusketeers]

But my mic is on a boom arm and I love it.. so it stays ;)

[@HelgeKeck]

using SS for my ratrig, but for my MK3S MMU2S im still using PS, SS seems to mess up many times with MMU prints, getting error messages directly on the printer

[@3DMusketeers]

interesting! Will have to ask buddies with MMU's but they really like the painting in 2.4!

[@4lowdiesel]

Can you explain why there is such a huge print time difference between Super Slicer and Simplify 3D. All settings are the same, yet super slicer will take almost twice as long for the same print file.

[@3DMusketeers]

Acceleration likely. S3d doesn't account for it in it's estimations.

[@chevalsauer]

Hey I'm about in the middle of my skillz at creating and slicing, and what I'm after is the ability to set details to fine for the exterior of a building, but set the walls thickness to thick to speed up the print... I'm hoping to find these in Superslicer, as there is nothing much in Flashforge's FlashPrint... any pointers that can get me in the right directions please???

[@3DMusketeers]

Line width I think is what you're after. If you're just starting I'd recommend Prusaslicer and only up to super slicer iffffff you need more control

[@gglovato]

i'd love to see you cover the adaptive layer feature in superslicer, as in cura it's automatic and in SS it's manual-ish. Also integrating arc welder to the output

[@3DMusketeers]

What is the integrating arc welder thing? You are not the first person to say that and I have NO CLUE what that is lol. We can look at doing adaptive layers!

[@keiransolaris1929]

@@3DMusketeers arc welder is a plugin in octoprint (maybe other places too?) that looks over the gcode and converts the pile little of G0/G1 commands used to make a circle into G2 arc commands.

[@3DMusketeers]

Okay, that is cool! I have not even looked into this, but now I really want to!

[@barenekid9695]

@@3DMusketeers Seriously!? Then PLEASE stop shilling stuff you know Nothing about.

[@3DMusketeers]

@@barenekid9695 I am certainly NOT shilling. Superslicer, nor any of the slicer brands, at this time, DO NOT pay us for any reason. This video was not sponsored, other than by my own company, because I can lol. I dont know Arc Welder, and I never pretended to, nor did I talk about it like I did. I actually have not mentioned it in a video. Not sure why you are so angry here...

[@kokodin5895]

why do you badmouth rafts? i use them quite often printing really tiny parts from abs otherwise they don't stick to table and i can't find them , it also helps with my warped ender 3 bed but i am a wierdo who print really detailed trains with 0,2mm nozzle from abs in open air :P

[@3DMusketeers]

Because rafts make for ugly bottom layers. Use a brim, it will work similarly without causing damage to your prints :) But yes, you are a mad lad ha ha!

[@kokodin5895]

@@3DMusketeers brim doesn't work well with 3 mm diameter, single extrusion width headlight rings made out of 3 layers of filement :] i mean my parts can be this tiny or smaller and they are usually cut off with a scalpel and tweezers , there is no bottom layer badness because that usually a side that being glued on keep the rafts safe, they are needed!

[@3DMusketeers]

I would put like a 15mm brim on it and send it! lol

[@MrOrangeman18]

great video and has helped me alot. one thing i wish it had though is the ability to adjust how far away the nozzle possition is relitive to the outside walls when in moved within the part. i notice when i set it to move only in the part it moves very close to the walls and would like the ability to even just set it to move only in infil. hope this makes sense

[@3DMusketeers]

I think you have the "avoid crossing perimeters" or some form of it turned on. If you turn it off, increase retraction some and use z hop you should not have issues with crossing perimeters

[@MrOrangeman18]

@@3DMusketeers hi thanks for the reply. yes i set the avoid crossing perimeters turned on as if i didnt i would get tiny blobs on the outside of my print where you can see its moved to another part of my print

[@3DMusketeers]

ah, that is all about tuning retraction and pressure advance :)

[@Printed_Visionz3D]

How do you show seams?

[@3DMusketeers]

I am not sure it can do this, however if you check Show Retraction and Detractions in the preview you should be able to find them easily

[@Ryan-ud9fk]

Im trying to iront text ontop of a flat surface, any idea how I can get the flat surface to be ironed fully and then have it print ontop of that? I need the cavitiies of the letters (inside the o's a's etc) to be the flat ironed surface below.

[@3DMusketeers]

Iron only top surfaces, if I am understanding that correctly? Or is there something else?

[@ImpossibleLink]

Do you ever use threaded inserts? I been looking for a press that can hold my soldering gun.

[@3DMusketeers]

We do. Pretty often in fact. We have a special tip for our soldering iron that is used to insert them, but I've never used a press with it before.

[@ImpossibleLink]

@@3DMusketeers I been looking at the drill gun presses and thinking about making a mod that would hold my soldering gun. I just need to go straight down. I just ordered one of those tips last week they are awesome!

[@3DMusketeers]

Could definitely whip something up fast to make it work, no need for something fancy IMO, just needs to hold the soldering iron SECURE. don't want it dropping LOL

[@ImpossibleLink]

@@3DMusketeers yeah just needs to hold it tight so it doesnt slip or wobble and i think this drill press idea would work great.

[@3DMusketeers]

It definitely would!

[@michaelleal4238]

Hello in last version of sslicer small perimeters speed doesnt change why? I put values min 1mm and max 15mm at speed 10mms and speeds dont change. Dont know if in older versions does the same

[@3DMusketeers]

What printer are you using? The latest should work like Prusa Slicer 2.3.3 which I have had success with on every machine we have here for the small perimeters. You may not have a perimeter small enough to work though?

[@michaelleal4238]

@@3DMusketeers will try in older version of ss

[@3DMusketeers]

Okay, let me know how it goes!

[@peterbloch5590]

Excellent information and detail for this program. However, presentation would benefit by better resolution of superslicer pages. I'm looking very closely at the screen to see the settings you are discussing, (and then jerked backward as your visage suddenly appears :)). Some zooming in to the settings you are discussing would also be very helpful. (Easily done with ScreenPal). Thanks for this.

[@3DMusketeers]

its also a multi year old video, so there is that... We use OBS for recording. If you have issues seeing things toss that resolution up :)

[@doncoolman6457]

I learned a lot thanks. I would like to see a video, a very thorough walkthrough, on all the calibration options in super slicer. Specifically where to find the settings you need to change upon completing a calibration print. Which settings to use, which settings not to use and what to expect as a result. It is matting sometimes when you change filament colors or brands and everything seems to be out of whack and it seems everything needs recalibrated. I have been 3D printing for almost a year now and still feel like a new when it comes to calibrating and tuning my printer per filament. I would think a lot of people would benefit from a thorough explanation and how to video for Super Slicer. Thanks

[@3DMusketeers]

That is a good idea, at least the "how to read a temp tower" or something like that. I like it!

[@TiphysFPV]

great video. Also, thank you for explaining the shrinking voodoo of silk filament. I just experienced this a few weeks ago and I was worried that my extruder was freaking out. 🤣

[@3DMusketeers]

Nope, all normal! Lolol

[@Dark0Storm]

I use the infill connected options all the time, usually just to set the top surface to not be connected so it doesn't have those little zig zag connected lines along the perimeter. It just looks a bit nicer (imo).

[@3DMusketeers]

Hmm I have never thought of it this way. But I also do not get those lines along the perimeters, at least I do not think so?

[@Dark0Storm]

@@3DMusketeers it's not always noticeable in the print for sure (especially at my preferred .28 width for top infill), but you can def see it in the sliced view. I found occasionally that extra filament made any slightly rough surface edges a bit worse too... but I'm not wildly experienced so I may just be imagining that.

[@3DMusketeers]

Are you talking about gap fill? Could be?

[@suicunegames5782]

This slicer is interesting, but I dont think I will switch, especially because prusaslicer will add fuzzy skin and other features in the new version.

[@3DMusketeers]

My guess is that they will pick it up, but unless I am calibrating, which SuperSlicer DEFINITELY does better, I think I will stick with PrusaSlicer as well!

[@TommiHonkonen]

I imported my settings from ps to ss and seemed to work just fine. Some things didn't populate because they are not in ps.

[@3DMusketeers]

OOOOOH maybe it is fixed now!

[@KRich408]

Link to Superslicer?

[@3DMusketeers]

github.com/supermerill/SuperSlicer/releases That is where updates and such will be posted. We used the latest stable version for this episode :) as of 11/01/2021 at least lol

[@UpcycleElectronics]

This was helpful. I need to try it. If you get the chance and are interested, is the Prusa SL1-___ the only FULLY open source SLA printer? I don't do extortion software, rent my tools, or write blank checks to borrow hardware. Subscription software is a criminal scam IMO. $2k for the SL1, is way too much money IMO. I might put up as much as my MK3s+ for a complete tool package, but even that is a stretch for such a messy stinky tool that I will use far less than FDM. So what's the deal? What are the options beyond the stupid maketing hype? What are my Gentoo capable, FOSS friendly options? No binary file nonsense. -Jake

[@3DMusketeers]

Yes it is. Basically all the others used closed sourced boards from Chitu Systems. If you want an open source resin that is basically as far as you go. We use Elegoo products here as the 2k was too much to swallow back then and while we do pay for lychee slicer pro ($50/yr) I believe that money is well spent on their dev teams making that software better. And it is MUCH better than Chitubox. We have covered both softwares, as well as prusa slicer in the past, feel free to go through that catalogue and see what you like, but if you are looking for open source only, then the Prusa SL1S is your only option as far as I am aware.

[@UpcycleElectronics]

@@3DMusketeers Well, that settles it then. Hobby resin printers don't exist... yet. I don't rent hardware. Sell me the software and hardware, no strings attached. If not, I will host the party the day they go bankrupt. Your little trick of using prusa slicer still relies on the "free" version of proprietary software. I've seen this plague of blank check software from companies like Autodesk. I'll never touch that crap again. I use FreeCAD, Blender, KiCAD, GIMP, Inkscape, Linux. Heck I won't even use a Google equip Android rom on anything other than this ancient phone I don't use for anything else. Newpipe is the only way to watch YT. To any reps slinging hardware: I would buy something if it is a fully open source tool chain. Invest in the product enough to sell me the whole thing for a straightforward price, otherwise I look forward to the day when the company goes out of business. -Sincerely

[@3DMusketeers]

I mean, they DO but not ones that are fully open source and "cheap" which of course makes sense. Software is a pain to develop and costs a ton of money. In my opinion, the Prusa is WELL WORTH its cost of admission. I tried FreeCAD once, you are braver than I, I could not figure it out.. I hate paying for software as well, but it is the new norm. Companies want to keep that IP internal and keep those looking to copy them from being able to compete without any issues. Open source is great if everyone plays by the rules and are not jerks, alas, that is not common these days either.. I can only hope we get a resolution for something truly open source, but I am not holding out hope.

[@UpcycleElectronics]

@@3DMusketeers I imagine Joe is pricing the SL1 so high because of the total risk for his return on investment. If that's the case, it should scale with time, and the pricing will fall drastically within a couple of years. More people should be squeaky wheeling this problem by stating they are not okay with the status quo. Tell your rep contacts. Share my comments. Tell them how real money is being left on the table. I'm a gimp on a tight budget. I don't have the money to buy the tool twice or write blank checks. I only want to get a resin printer to try making a few electrical connectors and some tight tolerance bearing shims. I couldn't care less about the trinket crap most people seem to print in resin. My curiosities are not worth $2k, but I'm not whoring out my morals for the opportunity to play with resin either. As far as FreeCAD, it's super easy, once you learn how to get around the topological naming issue. Half of the problems people have come from old video crap posted on YT. The real trick is to look for the actual FC devs that post YT content, like Mark Ganson, and/or just use the wiki, it's surprisingly good. The best part about FC is that it is scripted in current Python. Even if you don't know Python, FC makes it easy to start learning, but also works perfectly well if you do not want to code. The Py console literally spells out the code syntax for everything that is happening in the GUI. You can also use Open SCAD scripts directly. Ultimately, this is capitalism. The rules of business are determined by what we, the consumer, allow. Subscription software is stealing ownership away from us. In 10 years or less you will be left with a pile of useless garbage hardware. Not to mention the software is nothing but spyware, constantly phoning home collecting who knows what. Enable a white list firewall on your network and look at the traffic going on with this kind of crap. I have. It's not okay with me.

[@3DMusketeers]

I would be remised if I did not mention that we offer printing services to keep you from having to buy a 2k machine because we did for you lol. Most people love the scripting in FreeCad but as someone with minimal to 0 programming experience it is not my style. I wish I could learn it though! We are ITAR compliant so we actually end up disabling the phoning home and sometimes even feed it bad data when it wont work with internet disabled. It sucks, but yes, consumers are allowing this.. Looking at YOU all the "company name+" streaming services...

[@BackwoodsTinkerer]

Because of what I print, SuperSlicer has become my go to, because of ONE simple setting I cant believe isnt in PrusaSlicer... Single perimeter on top layer. It give me much better details on my top layer for my plates. If it wasnt for that i'd stick to Prusa because superslicer does some odd things with the top solid layer.

[@3DMusketeers]

That is a nice feature, I just did not personally find that to be worth it, especially with 2.4 bein beta now. I MUCH prefer the new painting for supports that Prusa does over the old school painting in SS. Mind you I am sure they will do a pull and bring it over, but still lol. I generally get good layers so I have not had the issue where the 1 perimeter really helps, however with silk prints or on ironed ones I could see how the single top perimeter would be nice.

[@BackwoodsTinkerer]

@@3DMusketeers I use multi color prints so that's where the 1 perimeter helps big time. SS also just came out with another release that gives that option for the first layer, something I'm beyond excited for because I use Wham Bam mats which I can now have my prints have that glassy look that up until now only the backside got. What bums me out SS at the moment is the lack of the color paint option that PS 2.4 has. I'm hoping that's a pull as well. Would love to see them combine into one SuperPrusa Slicer because they both have amazing options that the other doesn't.

[@3DMusketeers]

If history serves us well, it should only be a matter of time!

[@dfordesmondg]

Hi, Good vid but it would be really really really helpful if you have visuals for more of the things you talk about. 80 percent of the vid is just you talking about certain settings. what would be really valuable for a nubie like me would be visual representations of what happens when you change a certain setting you were talking about. besides that pretty informative... and thanks for the knowledge.

[@3DMusketeers]

It is almost impossible to show the settings in a way that would be understandable. So many of the settings change incredibly fine things. It would also minimally double the length of the video lol

[@mkhmkh1266]

Day late and a dollar short on my part a year later, but you probably realize by now you overestimated the speed of a v6 with a bondtech nozzle. With a .6CHT, 50W heater, plated copper block and titanium heatbreak, I'm maxed at 24 with ABS.

[@3DMusketeers]

Yeah I don't even remember what I said ha ha!

[@chrise1004]

Anyone know how to update Super Slicer and save your settings?

[@3DMusketeers]

Update should be under help I think in the top menu. To save your settings go to file>export>config bundle. And choose everything.

[@chrise1004]

@@3DMusketeers I actually figured it out..I thought the way that SuperSlicer runs without an installation out of a folder it wouldn't translate configs when you delete that folder to move to a new version. But it stores configurations separately outside of that folder. You can see where it stores by going to Help > Show Configuration Folder. I also found out you can change that to a cloud based folder, so now have SuperSlicer across all my devices configurations synced in real time.

[@3DMusketeers]

That is fancy!

[@joeking5211]

@@3DMusketeers Like everything in SuperSlicer, configs everywhere, a total Toy R Us UI mess, best of luck, a quick tip backup, backup and backup again as you will loose it all in time, what a total fiasco SS is. Your finding of - But it stores configurations separately outside of that folder. - is correct, and the BOZO's whoever wrote it DON'T tell you that with an info box or such like before it walks all over your n hours of setup / testing if you happen to do what I would think a logical step to create another 'test' folder with another copy in to do any tests before committing to your final copy, as this is a non install prog, just unzip to folder, ie a portable app, one would have thought a .ini file for the settings would have been the order of the day so everything is local. What a total JOKE.

[@n8bot]

Rafts exist because soluble supports exist. :)

[@3DMusketeers]

hmmm, not sure what the raft would do that would be useful for soluble supports. Is there something specific? I know Dense layers are there for soluble supports and material savings, but not sure what else.

[@n8bot]

The raft in general becomes more viable when it is printed with soluble material. It's (as you know) used to make a big thick "first" layer that can fill in/compensate for the variation of the bed surface. Then, the real first object layer can be printed at a much finer layer thickness on top of the soluble raft/dense interfaces like you mention (they merge and become the same extrusion role.... in PrusaSlicer, at least). Having it soluble, as you'd imagine, makes it easier to remove. On top of that, it can provide a small amount of thermal insulation from the bed. First few layers of PLA can look bad. Putting a raft in between can help with that. Also, PVA sticks very nicely to lots of bed surfaces. It can be just easier sometimes to have only a single material contacting the bed surface. Then, the bed surface requirements can be relaxed (as I alluded to earlier). It's not exactly essential, but IMO it's a good idea... and like you pointed out, rafts of the same material of the object make less sense.

[@3DMusketeers]

My understanding of rafts, and why I used to use them was because ABS and non heated beds. The raft would warp protecting the part, but I guess I can see that being useful if you have the capabilities. Here in FL though, we try to avoid PVA because it becomes worthless pretty fast :( Ultimaker adds some sort of 11 herbs and spices to make it more stable, but it is only in 3mm so far.

[@n8bot]

Ah yes, you bring up another interesting point. It is useful for reducing warping, even with a heated bed. Because the rectilinear raft, which is often sparse, has more "relaxed" stresses inherent in the traces -- they have a tendency to warp less, and so improving adhesion and chances for success. The part isn't directly in contact with all the heat (going back to the insulation I mentioned), so it also tends to warp less. Sometimes, even with printing big thick brims, parts want to warp. The raft can do lots for that. As for PVA in Florida... lol. Yeah. I'm in Vancouver, which is not exactly dry. If you buy an air-tight container, like a pet-food container, and run PTFE tube to it, and throw in an over-sized desiccant bag (made for like drying out humid RVs and such)... you will not have problems with moisture! Lololo. I maintain

[@3DMusketeers]

We have active drying solutions that we currently use but for machines like the Prusa XL this may not be possible, we will see. Yep, soluble is easy once you have the equipment, the actual tuning of it is not bad at all.

[@bob55today]

Supper Slicer can NOT add and subtract Supports !!! WHY does it not have this ability ?

[@3DMusketeers]

What do you mean by this? It has enforcers and blockers as well as paint on supports.

[@bob55today]

@@3DMusketeers Hi 3D Musketeers, Thank you for your reply. I normally use Simplify 3D which I am able to add or remove any supports I choose. I am new to trying Supper Slicer and I have not been able to find any way to remove particular unwanted supports. I have not seen or found anything about enforcers, blockers or paint on supports in Supper Slicer 2.3.56. Is there a video which show how in Supper Slicer, how to remove particular unwanted supports ?

[@3DMusketeers]

Make sure to set supports for enforcers only then on the main screen on the left hand column next to your model, you will see a paint brush, click on that to enter paint on supports. Personally, I like this much more than the system S3D uses. I do prefer the implementation of Prusaslicer 2.4 over SS, but technically PS 2.4 is not out of beta as of yet, but it is worth it IMO. Hope this helps! If you still have trouble, shoot me an email and I can send you some screenshots and such :)

[@bob55today]

​@@3DMusketeers Thank you, I will look for it. I am not seeing any Supports when I am in “3D View” And the supports are being shown when in “Sliced preview” and “Gcode preview” BUT there is no way to make any support adjustment in those tabs. What’s up with this or how are you supposed to make support adjustments when they are not seen ?

[@3DMusketeers]

shoot me an email, lets just get a 15 minute call set up, I can try to type it out, or, I can just show you and I think the showing will help more :)

[@Super-650]

I think Prusaslicer deals with seams better. For whatever reason Superslicer doesn't have the "Nearest" option unless you have One loop perimerers enabled whick causes other problems. Great video 0/

[@3DMusketeers]

*checks Superslicer* huh.. how about that.. Well, yeah that is kind of odd isn't it? Unless you are a power user wanting MAXIMUM CONTROL, Prusaslicer is normally enough. Although those calibration items are so nice! Thanks for the support!

[@Super-650]

Tip*** With regard to small perimeter speed settings, if you want to use One loop Perimeters, multiply the small perim. target size by the number of walls, for example 8mm x 3(walls)=24mm. Then small perim.speed will work properly.

[@3DMusketeers]

ooooh I did not know that! Thanks for the tip!

[@MisterkeTube]

Brim and skirt differ when you have multiple objects. A single skirt goes around all objects at once, whereas each object should have its own brim ...

[@3DMusketeers]

correct, not sure if I made that clear in the video, thank you for correcting me if not!

[@Serp1313]

Pretty shallow deep dive.

[@3DMusketeers]

How much more do you need?

[@johnallen8094]

you talk to much!

[@3DMusketeers]

you are too rude.

[@eclypse3d]

Pink eye FTW

[@3DMusketeers]

technically, but it is stress induced, you will see it come and go throughout my career here.. But hey, thanks for being a dick about it!