PrusaSlicer 2.4 FULL RELEASE Is Here! - Everything You Need To Know

[@ripmax333]

@16:20 I didn't catch that part, what benefit did actually does to go from 3mm to 1 with the first layer expansion?

[@3DMusketeers]

allows you to have parts closer together. That expansion is there to ensure the support sticks well to your build plate.

[@jacobstringfellow6802]

Honestly loved the older version but can definitely appreciate the new features! Thanks for the very informative vid!

[@3DMusketeers]

It is honestly so much better. Simply if they changed NOTHING else but snug supports I would still be over the moon, but the new changes are awesome! And realistically you dont have to use them all

[@joepomo9636]

The negative shape feature should allow you to resize features like holes without returning to CAD. Probably also useful if you only have an STL available to begin with

[@3DMusketeers]

This is true! We do find it is REALLY tough to get that hole centered so it does not always work as intended, but hey, better than nothing!

[@joepomo9636]

@@3DMusketeers Oh that's a really great point! I wonder if the developers could use the painting feature to capture the geometry of holes/etc. rather than relying on alignment. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[@3DMusketeers]

Gosh that would be AMAZING!

[@Awesom_Austin]

Why not use the Smart fill with the paint on supports.

[@3DMusketeers]

On some models this will work well, but on others it is not great. It is a nice feature if you can get that percentage dialed in, but I do still prefer the paint on method personally.

[@oldsalty3d122]

PrusaSlicer always puts that purge line out in the middle of nowhere at the end of a print. It's not because you had a filament change at that point. I'm not sure why it does it.

[@3DMusketeers]

Oh, I figured that was because of a change! Odd!

[@HackMonkey]

@@3DMusketeers The purge block ends at the last layer change, but I think this final move in thin air has to do with the unload sequence of the MMU2. If No Sparse Layers is used (awesome feature!) it will lower the head to the purge block. But have to watch for collisions!

[@3DMusketeers]

Oh man those collisions could be BAD! I need to get an MMU, have stayed my distance because of some of the horror stories lol. But now I know quite a few people with them happily

[@oldsalty3d122]

@@3DMusketeers I love my MMU2, it's been very reliable. It prints non stop when I'm not out at sea, and I hardly have any problems with it.

[@3DMusketeers]

You, Bob, and others have been my inspiration to get one lol.. May just wait for the next iteration though.

[@marcus3d]

29:10 It's not at all ridiculous to be able to move models above the bed. You might be printing on top of something else (like a previous print cut short).

[@3DMusketeers]

Yes, this has shown to be a pain in recent days..

[@joelstolarski2244]

When I slice the slider shows for a couple of seconds and the disappears. Is it a glitch ? I can see the sliced object for about 2 or 3 seconds . Know it's slicing. Click on left bottom 3d Editor block view. model still there. Click on stack looking blocks, that is the preview and no model. Perplexing !

[@3DMusketeers]

Does it give you the sliced info in the bottom right? If not it is not done slicing. I have not seen this issue, if you want, email us some screen shots, happy to take a look!

[@joelstolarski2244]

@@3DMusketeers I really think it was a temporary glitch, or file related. This morning, downloaded some different stl's to see if it was happening. Rebooted computer, and then laoded a file, and slice and preview worked fine. I'll see if I can recreate the error. I've been using Cura, and wanted to explore Prusaslicer so I can cut some portions of the stl's. Also designing some simple 3d models, and Prusa does have some really useful features. If problem re-occurs will send a screenshot.

[@3DMusketeers]

Dang gremlins are like that some times!

[@eusouocara23]

Can you edit a g-code on the g-code viewer? Or do you have to just start over with your STL or MF file? Thanks!

[@3DMusketeers]

You can edit gcode in notepad or any text editor. What do you need to edit?

[@eusouocara23]

@@3DMusketeers I'm sorry, not g-code per se. I meant a g-coded object. like if I sliced an object but wanted to tweak it in the g-code viewer and don't have the original STL file anymore. if that makes sense. haha.. thanks for the reply!

[@3DMusketeers]

What would you want to tweak? Some things are easy but others are VERY complicated. Normally the answer is no because you have to reprogram it all. I'm not certain if it does but I'd hedge and say it does not. What are you trying to do specifically?

[@eusouocara23]

@@3DMusketeers well, I had book marker model that I had downloaded and lost the original file. Only have the g-coded file. Then, when I open the file it only opens on g-code viewer, no on the slicer. Thata what I was wondering if you can re-slice that file in g-code viewer, instead of downloading the STL again and slice it the slicer. But I thinks it's not possible. And I don't think you can open a sliced file into slicer to re-slice it. Anyways, thanks for being so cool and helping out!

[@3DMusketeers]

@@eusouocara23 Alas, no, without completely reprogramming the gcode by hand, you will need to find the STL again. Sorry there is not a solution but glad I could try and help!

[@michaelplaczek9385]

I will be very excited when they release Tree Supports

[@3DMusketeers]

I will be too. I have not given tree supports a fait chance, but man, the snug works so dang well. We really do need to work on the Tree Supports vs. the world video...

[@monsterstorm78]

Do u have to have an dual extruder to do the painting tho on the 3D printer

[@3DMusketeers]

yes, with only one nozzle and no MMU, you would get no value out of the painting

[@monsterstorm78]

@@3DMusketeers when u have the dual extruder do u still have to do color swap or no

[@3DMusketeers]

@@monsterstorm78 nope, you can set it up to change extruders

[@monsterstorm78]

@@3DMusketeers is it complicated to do

[@3DMusketeers]

Depends on the printer. It definitely can be.

[@avejst]

Support is my best update 👍 Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍🙂

[@3DMusketeers]

Absolutely! Thanks for watching and supporting the channel

[@HackMonkey]

Curious, did you end up changing the Extruder Clearance Height to make sequential printing work? I noticed you cut away on an invalid data, and came back with it working. That is the only way I have ever got anything over 20mm tall to sequentially print.

[@3DMusketeers]

Good eye! Yes there was a few minutes of footage cut out while I figured out how to fix it. Yes. I changed the clearance height!

[@HackMonkey]

@@3DMusketeers I was mostly listening to the video, to see if there was anything you touched on I wasn't aware of. When you got to that point, I perked up!

[@3DMusketeers]

LOL you caught the sneaky edit ;)

[@KraftsyDE]

Hi can You please make a video step by step, and show us what are the best print settings for PrusaSlicer 2.4 ? Thanks :)

[@3DMusketeers]

If you have a prusa, just use stock. Unfortunately there are SO MANY variables and printers out there. To show getting perfect settings would only apply to the printer, material, etc. that we would be using. We can maybe look at a video going over the basics of tuning a printer though!

[@KraftsyDE]

@@3DMusketeers Yeah that would be cool, im using MK3s+, im looking for better options for support to get them easier out after print, and also wondering what’s the best infill pattern ? - or it depends what you are printing ? Anyway thanks for answering my question 👍

[@3DMusketeers]

BEST is gyroid, it is even along all axes. But we use adaptive cubic. We run basically stock settings other than adaptive cubic and snug supports rather than grid. works great. Infill is dependent on what you print. We use gyroid for time lapses but adaptive cubic elsewhere.

[@KraftsyDE]

@@3DMusketeers Thank You 😊 will definitely try it out 👍

[@3DMusketeers]

Good luck, if you hit roadblocks let us know!

[@monsterstorm78]

Do u still gotta do an color swap

[@3DMusketeers]

color swaps are done differently than painting.

[@marcus3d]

0:56 "Even the alphas, and some of the betas, were a little bit buggy." - Surprised about that?

[@3DMusketeers]

No, not really, but the bugs they did have were pretty minimal.

[@cgrosbeck]

Still no real way for FDM tree supports

[@3DMusketeers]

correct, but the snug supports are damn good. We will be covering Cura 5 soon which will include tree!

[@cgrosbeck]

@@3DMusketeers Thanks for the reply, I just hate jumping from slicer to slicer for features not found across the board like top surface pasterns are fantastic in PrusaSlicer but not found in CURA. If PrusaSlicer had FFF / FDM tree suports it would be complete, as CURA is missing SPACE MOUSE support and the big one is multi material paint. Or if CURA could add SPACE MOUSE support and multi material paint. Cura plugins ability is alsow grate, main dislike in CURA is all settings centralized in one list which can cause confusion to my students, PrusaSlicer has defined tabs and profiles under each to build on a proper slice setup.

[@3DMusketeers]

One day we will get a slicer with everything!

[@canadaplease7981]

You missed some choice Valorant Brim jokes when talking about the brim settings lol Good video though

[@3DMusketeers]

As someone who does not play Valorant I doubt I could have integrated them well anyways LOL. Looking to make some of the weapons from the game though as a buddy does a good job modeling them!

[@bulldog3494]

Dont waist your money and time for the MMU2. Had it for three months and a ton of problems. Had to sell it was not worth it. It not a product that was though out. Very disappointed on the product that they are selling. The Prusa Printer is the best workhourse.

[@3DMusketeers]

I know people on both sides of that fence, ones that love it and ones that hate it. I am told basically all printed parts need to be re done for it to work well.