A Tale of Two Pugs : Repair Request

These two wee brown saddle tanks were sent to me by Darren as they weren't running.
ko-fi.com/00bi...

[@donniblanco5239]

I love these and Have several in different Guises and as you Say some Run well and Others try harder - Some Great tips there Cheers

[@johnmassey7687]

giving a pug a wedgie great innovation to fix the problem thanks for the video

[@richardclowes6123]

Hi Bill, love the way you send them through the engine shed to the bench. Adds a touch of light-hearted humour ! Always enjoy watching you take them apart. I'd have thought that little ones like this would all be the same . . . . clearly different engines, motors etc. Thanks.

[@learn_with_gern]

It is always surprising how these pocket rockets need servicing as well, despite being a Scalextric motor with two gears and nearly no valvegear!

[@TheDaf95xf]

Nice fix Bill 👍🏻 I think every young boy had a Pug at one point 😆

[@darrenridgway4332]

A good job well done there! A vast improvement in the running of both locos. Well pleased!

[@pedalcarguy]

Pugs can be tricky. I have converted several of my pugs, including a Caledonian one, to use a particular 6-pole motor. I 3D printed a new mounting bracket for the motors. The pugs are now my slowest but also among my most sure-footed locos, capable of running at very slow speeds with good torque. The top speed is also considerably lower and more to scale. These pugs are often jokingly referred to as "pocket rockets". My pugs are rockets no more. Bill, if you are interested, I could send you one of the motors with the mounting bracket. Thank you for sharing!

[@thewatcher7682]

Do you have a link to where you bought the motors?

[@pedalcarguy]

@@thewatcher7682 I ordered them from Aliexpress. Mabuchi SF-266SH 18mm Square 6-Pole Rotor. Unlike the listing says, the brushes are not carbon, but a silver alloy along with the commutator. I know because I opened one to make sure. KZbin does not allow posting direct links, so you have to do a search on the website.

[@PeterJewell2]

@@pedalcarguy - sounds like an opportunity! These Hornby 0-4-0s have been frustrating modellers since they were introduced, so I'm sure there are more than a few people who would pay for an upgrade kit.

[@dj_efk]

@@pedalcarguy looking forward to your channel’s inauguration. Going to be interesting content for sure.

[@jbrailways]

I have two of these which were manufactured by Dapol, one in WD livery and one in BR livery and I fitted a DCC chips into each and they both run extremely well. JBR

[@peteredwards338]

That takes the biscuit !

[@oobill]

Crumbs!

[@bigmac60]

That’s a little to much to Digest ive

[@esseel7896]

his names Bill not Gary

[@damiendye6623]

best thing for those is to replace the 3 pole motors with a 5 pole and then to increase the reduction on the gears for improved slow speed running.

[@michaeldavies9600]

I have a few of these,some run great other's not so but i love them all the same ;) I bought a little blue one with 3, 4 wheel coaches for £12 and my newest was from Hatton's they were doing a offer a black British Rail jobbie for £15 :) nice tip with the cable tie it makes me want to look at my not so good runners now.

[@peternorris6438]

Another good use of cable ties job well done

[@ArcadiaJunctionHobbies]

I replaced the motor in mine with a 24v motor off ebay and the performance and torque was a superb improvement.

[@PeterJewell2]

Sounds interesting. Could you provide a link or a description, please?

[@railway187]

Interesting repair video 👍👌🤩

[@peterlittle6651]

The bad standing start on these could be down to the two capacitors where fitted and their values. One capacitor would certainly be better.

[@frankhughes4088]

OO Bill, watching your videos is exceptionally educational, been watching these how to repair videos for some time. Have to say how informative it is, especially to me as it’s given me the skill and chance to repair and modify my collection. I have to thank you very much for that. I’ve just watched your running session from January 2021. There’s plenty of signals and points on your circuit. Watching your video Iam interested to find out how you control your points etc. what point motors do you use as the layout is built on thick insulation boards? Many Thanks, Frank Hughes.

[@oobill]

I just use standard Hornby point motors that clip onto the underside of the point. I cut a pit into the baseboard to house them and use card to cover it so the ballast doesn't fall in. I use old style Hornby lever switches wired using a terminal block as a bus. kzbin.info/www/bejne/a17Tlominp2HnpY

[@astolatpere11]

Fun!

[@nicholasbishop3300]

Nice job Bill Nick Australia

[@beeble2003]

Read the first half of the title, thought it was a _Girl with the Dogs_ video, was _very_ confused.

[@Hogsmeadejunction]

Was the motor in the MR one up side down, I had that in a southern green 0-4-0 tank engine it ran badly and kept getting hot, I looked at my other ones and appeared someone had put it back together with the motor in upside down.

[@PeterJewell2]

As I understand it, the two extra components in the Chinese version are to slow the motor and provide better control. At first glance they look like a resistor and a second capacitor, although how and why they work I haven't yet worked out. It's possible that these may also affect the startup characteristics. Anyone confirm this?

[@_RandomPea]

Certainly looks like it, the Chinese one has alot less torque but seems to run steadier and with less wriggling. I have 2, one from the 90s and one WCR one from 2000s, and there is a clear difference in running performance, on both I still find the removal of the chassis unnecessarily tricky, I've snapped both my ones now... And the 90s one doesn't have the screw. So the firebox comes loose... Appears that the addition of the front chassis screw may have come into the design so remedy this as a cheap and nasty fix, saves them redesigning the model entirely ...

[@johngibson4641]

Hi Bill ,, I have been pulling old 12 v dc motors out of computer printers ie the motors that drive the paper feeds and they seem to work quite well. Do these motors (out of the printers) fit in these little pugs and a heap of other locos i have here. Cheers from John in Australia.

[@User-3O3]

Abrupt pulling away is just the nature of a lot of the Hornby 0-4-0's, unfortunately.

[@garydoc]

¡Hola buenos días Bill! As a regular, sub”d, viewer to your videos, one question I have been meaning to ask - which Contact Cleaner do you use? (Referred to at time stamp 2:31) I ask as, after watching many repair videos, over the years, yours are ones which feature the use of said cleaner the most. Keep up the great work with the repair and, servicing videos, I hope others are as grateful for the tips and advice your offer as I am. Stay safe and well. Un saludo. Gary

[@PeterJewell2]

This question seems to be asked on every repair video, but that's no reason for not answering you! Bill uses "WD40 (Specialist, Fast-Drying) Contact Cleaner", which I am happy to confirm is amazing stuff, and I'm very grateful to Bill for introducing me to it. (Make sure you get the right one, the Contact Cleaner not 'ordinary' WD40!)

[@garydoc]

@@PeterJewell2 Thanks for your reply Peter and, I have to say, on a further question to Bill, regarding the cleaner he uses, I have received a response from him. I am eagerly awaiting the delivery of a can as I write this! Cheers. Gary

[@shedhead00]

The motors are just junk, no speed or full speed , great tip with the cable ties .

[@arrow1414]

How about installing a electrolytic capacitor to act as a rudimentary keep alive circuit so it won't stall on points too much?

[@oobill]

I'm DC not DCC. If only there was an easy stay alive solution for DC.

[@arrow1414]

@@oobill The single capacitor is for dc. Just wire the capacitor terminals across the motor terminals. It would act like a very short life battery that would discharge its charge when power is cut to the motor acting like a flywheel. And it should be a non electrolytic capacitor, the non polarized ones. I made a mistake saying it should be electrolytic.

[@oobill]

@@arrow1414 I'm no electrical boffin but my understanding was that a capacitor to function as a stay alive on a DC loco would need to be large and not at all practical. Do you have any links to more info?

[@mikeking2539]

Not sure that they are Pugs!

[@User-3O3]

They are ex-Caledonian Class 264 Pugs.

[@_RandomPea]

I've got a China built pug, wcr one and no matter what I do it will not release the front. The instructions don't even tally with its build... Why 😭!! On my British built one it just pops off like your video... Anyone know how to remove??

[@_RandomPea]

Managed to work it out, it needed wedging up just behind the pistons. Wasn't very easy to spot. The design of these things are quite bad, on both my ones I've managed to break the tabs, the plastic is just so thin that even when I was really gentle it's broken. Disappointed in my clumsyness but equally frustrating as I was hardly being rough

[@oobill]

The clips are always broken on these things but the bodies fit on fine without them and are subsequently easier to remove again. I don't think these locos are really meant to be taken apart.

[@_RandomPea]

@@oobill odd that isnt it, manufactured not to be maintained. I was so careful Bill, I guess I could have used a long wooden coffee stirer rather than a screwdriver but even so... I think it's ok for about 2 services and then the plastic clips just can't handle it. I might try and copy the Chinese setup as it does run alot more realistic than my old 90s one

[@_RandomPea]

@@oobill on another note, have you bought one of the DC Bluetooth controllers yet? They look great, my son will love using the tablet to control the trains... (Me too 😂)

[@oobill]

I've looked at them and may buy one at some point.

[@JohnJohnson-cn9fh]

nice one bill.jpj