A Typical Night Out With NINA

[@christianvulpescu1398]

Nomen est omen! 😄 A night without NINA! Boy! I can't live without her anymore since I met her!😄

[@PatriotAstro]

Classic

[@Jcastleinfo]

Fantastic! This video is recommended for anyone thinking about NINA but wanting to see how a nights workflow compares to something else.

[@Arcteek]

Brilliant video as usual. In my opinion you're at the same level as Cuiv and the best channels, in a more practical and very useful style.

[@jean-clauderoussil6830]

Tranquility base here they eagle has landed!!!

[@PatriotAstro]

Yep!!!

[@jpgillette18]

Thank you for all the NINA content! Wonderful instructions and so comprehensive. Much appreciated!!!

[@DocAstro]

Very well done!!! Thank you!

[@michealbeaudry8776]

Excellent video!!! So helpful! Thank you so much!

[@PatriotAstro]

Glad it helped! Keep watching, there is a lot more to learn! :)

[@astronomynotebook]

Wow this is very helpful to see Nina in action with the related tutorials for each step….very organized.

[@PatriotAstro]

Glad it was helpful!

[@JohnDoe-pm9cg]

Thank u for your quick guide. The most Videos I've seen on Nina were epicly long. 👍

[@PatriotAstro]

I try to find a sweet-spot where it is helpful, still something you can follow, but gets you back outside quicker. :)

[@adyjoy]

Really helpful video that links all the NINA setup tasks. Looking forward to the mosaic video 😉

[@PatriotAstro]

It's on the short list. I'll show you how to take them... but I hate shooting them, because of the processing after the fact. :) I'd rather go out and get a wider filed scope than process a mosaic. LOL

[@asmxh]

This is a really great channel. Lots of great stuff. I’m just getting started in Astrophotography & NINA and would highly recommend this channel to those like me.

[@PatriotAstro]

I agree! :) Thanks for watching!

[@seafurymike]

This was such a useful video. I'll have to watch it a few more times to ensure i get the most out of it, but it definitely helped with expanding my understanding - such as just kicking off the guider and NINA will do the rest. I need to get more into sequencing, that seems like the "ducks nuts" to making the night successful. I'm super glad CUIV pointed us out to you.

[@PatriotAstro]

CUIV is the best! He took me to a whole new level as well. I’m so happy he’s back to making some videos, although I completely get it, while this is very enjoyable… It is super time-consuming. When you need a break, you really need a break. :-) i’m glad you found this particular video, I thought it might help a few people connect the dots or at least get them thinking about the rest of the product and how it all can be used. If you end up with questions, reach out to me. Feel free to use the comments or go to my KZbin page’s about section and you’ll find my email address.

[@stephanw196]

Hi! Only recently I found out about your channel but it quickly became my number one source for NINA! Thank you for all the effort you put into your videos. Exciting times indeed

[@TheAlros100]

Agree with you. I am very impressed with the content and teaching style ! Looking forward to more videos

[@PatriotAstro]

Thank you so much. I have more NINA stuff in the works. I can''t wait to move on to a couple other things as well (mixed in) that I've had planned for quite a while now. Thanks for watching!

[@PatriotAstro]

Thanks!

[@TheAlros100]

Great video - thanks for sharing your process

[@PatriotAstro]

...at least the basics. Enough to get a regular, every day, session going. Let me know if I can help.

[@starpartyguy5605]

I’m amazed at how clear your explanations are. And I’m amazed that NINA is free with all this capability. I started imaging in 2002 with the ST237 and Maxim. Prices for each upgrade were over $100 each and if it was a major redesign, they charged you full price. Over several years I must have paid over $1000 for this software alone. I spent last week with the scope in the back yard setting things up. New QHY 268m with cfl-large filter wheel. Ran into a couple issues with oag spacing and needed a few extra power cables. But I have it right now, I think. As it always happens, once I had everything ready, clouds, rain, thunderstorms… Took the scope down till it clears, sometime later this week.

[@PatriotAstro]

Thanks! Best of luck!

[@jameschase9002]

Hi Chad - I've made it through appx 1/2 of your vids (...they're all really GREAT, by the way...); and, it's clear you are an avid Advanced Sequencer guy. I hope to get up there with you one day, but because I'm still very much in learning mode with NINA, it would really be helpful if you could put together a beginner's vid showing how to (through close and continuous monitoring) collect individual long-exposure images outside of the sequencer. I'm just not ready yet to get into the sequencer when I'm still trying to learn autofocus (for example). Once I fully understand and can apply all the various sub-system elements in NINA, then I'll be in a much better position to tackle the AS. Anyway, Thanks for what you're doing to help all of us!

[@PatriotAstro]

I've been considering doing a set of more basic videos around moving to NINA. I don't want to get into comparing APT or SGP or ASIair or whatever else as a 1:1 comparison, BUT I do think a simple "here is how you can get imaging from day 1" video would help. I'm also considering doing a basic intro to the advanced sequencer... sort of a basics of programming logic type video. Maybe with some stuff people can do to follow along as well. Trying to get people comfortable with the interface, loops, etc. We'll see.

[@jameschase9002]

@@PatriotAstro Thanks Chad... 'Looking forward to seeing what you come-up with.

[@PatriotAstro]

@@jameschase9002 me too! :)

[@thelovin71]

Great video as always. The next obvious video step would be taking calibration frames and then processing that target from start to finish ;-)

[@PatriotAstro]

I actually already have a Flats Wizard video in the works but haven't been too happy with it. I may re-shoot that this weekend. :)

[@thelovin71]

@@PatriotAstro Thanks for replying. I think a good video on taking calibration frames would be useful. Darks are straight forward but good flats are harder. Not just a how to but what can go wrong / what bad calibration frames and badly correctly light frames look like. This is more your style to explain and show relatable examples to help explain. As for other ideas I think a PHD2 series would be useful. Guiding assistant, typical issues and how to address etc. Under / over sampling, matching optics to pixel size, focal length limits and seeing, when to drizzle etc. could be another video (or three). Backfocus with flatterers / reducers and how to know if you are too near or too far from the sensor based on star shapes. How to deal with tilt. I’ve seen a couple of home built optical test benches with a laser pen recently to help identify and fix tilt during the daytime. That’s a nice project / video.

[@BrentMantooth]

Great jump start to get me going in 1.11

[@PatriotAstro]

Thanks! Let me know if you have questions.

[@JB-iz8bi]

reallyyyy helpful video

[@PatriotAstro]

Glad to hear that!

[@arcadium86]

Very very helpful mate! GJ!

[@PatriotAstro]

Glad you think so!

[@andamd1983]

Thanks!

[@PatriotAstro]

No problem!

[@roothog501]

Wow! This is so well put together. I've been needing something like this. I'm tired of all my gear sitting in cases as I try to figure out how to use it all. Thanks so much!!

[@PatriotAstro]

Glad it was helpful!

[@HeavenlyBackyardAstronomy]

Another great tutorial on NINA, Chad. I must start using the 'Advanced Sequencer more often'. I've been quite spoiled by the 'Basic Sequencer', which is usually enough for my session.

[@PatriotAstro]

it makes perfect sense to only use what you need. the KISS method, right? (Keep It Simple Stupid) :) I'll be updating my downloadable sequences very soon, so stay on the lookout for those. You may find them to be handy starting points.

[@matthewfletcher]

This is wonderful thanks!! Giving me serious considerations to asiair Vs mini pc

[@marcelisler8145]

Hey there, great tutorial on how to get started with Nina. I am using the same mount as you do and was wondering if you have a video on what you had to do to get it work reliably, i.e. tackle backlash etc. Mine is a bit of a fickle xxx :)

[@PatriotAstro]

I too have fought from time to time and actually need to do it again. I think i actually made things worse the last time i messed with it. :) I dont have a video on this and just have relied on my own youtube searches to find some decent ones. :(

[@sergiofonte4067]

I would like to thank you for the excellent videos you make and the excellent teaching method, but in your video at 2:48, you say required pre-step for my AZGTI with EQMOD, I have an AZGTI but I still can't use it with this drive ascom EQMOD, only using it with Nina I have to open the control application of my assembly for it to communicate with it do you know how I can do it this way because it seemed to me that I don't need to open the application to make the connection with AZGTI, do I have to connect a cable between the assembly and my notebook???

[@paulking6293]

Yes, very good video, as usual.. but what about the clouds?

[@PatriotAstro]

I know. The clouds...

[@cesarg8936]

Is there a PDF file with these explanations? It would be fantastic!

[@jenniferwatson1949]

When you connect your mount at about 4:45 in.... it brings up what looks like an ascom interface for your mount. I have seen a couple of other vids where that comes up. I have a SW Gti mount. Do I need that interface? I have downloaded the ascom dirver for synscan.

[@gkather]

Yet another great video! I see you use HFR to determine when the sequencer needs to run autofocus. What tolerance do you set? I could not see your settings in the video. Thanks!

[@PatriotAstro]

This is going to be very much dependent on your optical train, and maybe some other things as well. So much to unpack here. :) What I would do is watch the HFR History in the imaging panel and also the associated changing statistic near that trigger as it runs. (FYI - you can change the settings on the fly while the sequence is running.) Get a feel for where you need to make the AF occur. The problem with just throwing a number out there is that it uses percent change, and is affected by things like current Focal Length and Seeing Conditions. On my C8 and in my typical seeing conditions, the stars are larger and it is not unusual for me to have an HFR around 5. 5% of 5 is only 0.25 HFR change. On my wide-field imaging, my stars are smaller and my HFR can be closer to 2.5. 5% of 2.5 is just 0.125. These numbers could be within margin of error if your seeing conditions are not great, or are fluctuating... or they could be perfect numbers to use in great seeing conditions. As you can see, I'm dancing around giving you a specific answer, because there isn't one. I will say, in worse conditions, increase the Sample Size to get a longer term 'average'. HFR% is something you can try to sort out based on your incoming data. All in all, maybe start at 10 and 10% and see where that starts to drive you. I would likely then consider lowering one or both of these values, but unlikely I would increase either past 10. Clear. As. Mud. :) LOL :) Hope it helped explain it at least a little.

[@MG-Dub]

Quick question- on the Asiair pro you have the option to select ‘ Tracking’for the mount . Where would this be set in Nina. Thanks

[@PatriotAstro]

Are you talking about tracking speed, or just tracking in general (on/off)? Nina automatically starts tracking when imaging, but there is also an advanced sequencer command for setting the tracking speed. Additionally, depending on hardware in use, you can check the equipment > telescope page in NINA for your mount to see if may also be available in there.

[@deeber35]

Thought my mount was PA in NINA (< 1 degree fro both), but when I slew to coordinates, the camera is way off; I did get a warning it didn't slew far enough or something, to somehow change slew rate? but that warning went away when I next PA; what could be wrong? Used an L bracket for the camera, but that shouldn't be a problem

[@PatriotAstro]

If after using 3PPA for PA in NINA you get a warning message about starting too far off... make some adjustments using the 3PPA... then, restart 3PPA and do another alignment. It should be much better and the warning should go away,

[@hael8680]

Another great video! Is it possible to get rid of the graph in the statistics panel? I find it is useless while taking up precious screen space.

[@PatriotAstro]

The histogram image below statistics is part of that panel and not detachable BUT if you grab the bottom of that panel, you can drag it upward effectively hiding the histogram while the statistics remain.

[@hael8680]

@@PatriotAstro I'll give this a try. Thanks!

[@stevemills6473]

What do you use to communicate to your stick PC? I am currently using Team Viewer, but yours is so quick!

[@PatriotAstro]

I had problems with team viewer as well. I use Windows remote desktop. Your operating system will have to be pro and not home but it works extremely well.

[@evertontoledo1612]

I have a newtonian 130 f5. My DSLR only focuses with a barlow lens. Can I platesolve in NINA?

[@deeber35]

After very accurate PA with EQ mount (connected via EQMOD) in NINA, when I slew to an object, the scope is way off (40+ degrees). Why by so much? Coordinates will be off from then on when slewing to other targets, as Slew and Center does not re-set coordinates to be accurate. Will NINA, when i center and slew, track with the object centered, or track based on the faulty Alt/Az?

[@kennethhynes9782]

Great video, when do you take your calibration files (flats, darks ...)?

[@PatriotAstro]

I'm super lazy about this. Darks and Bias, I do when I get a new temperature controlled astro camera. First thing I shoot with it... Bias is quick, then Darks right after that (at the expected temperature for a range of exposure lengths for the Darks of course). These Dark/Bias frames become a permanent library for that camera and it would be very unlikely I would need to shoot them again. Flats/DarkFlats (or Flat Darks depending on who you are talking to at the time), you should do after every imaging session. Since I roll my equipment in and out without any disassembly, I have found I can sometimes go several (many) sessions without reshooting new Flats. (See, ... lazy). There are challenges to this approach since it means I cannot adjust the optical train or rotate framing, etc or the old flats will not work. Of course, with a non-temp controlled camera, the recommendation is to take Darks every session as well since the sensor temp will be night dependent. I plan to have some videos coming on calibration soon-ish. :)

[@paulwilson8367]

As a raw beginner, this is an essential video, and it helped me get further along on my 2nd session attempt with NINA. I took notes that I read in the dark. Got everything to connect, did my first AF (my curve wasn't a thing of beauty) and made it through PA now that I know about the little white square (1st time, I got a good PA, but didn't know how to tell it to stop! Ha). I searched and found my target, I thought I was gonna get there. But then, problems. NINA reported that I wasn't tracking. That should be automatic! Ok, where is the tracking button? I couldn't find it. I am reading on EQMOD? Which button is sidereal? What happened was, when I told NINA to slew to target, scope just stayed sideways on Polaris. Will NINA slew to target directly from last PA position? The other thing, and you did mention this, was "I got lost", because NINA was moving the viewing windows around on the screen without me wishing them moved. I am connecting remotely to a mini PC on the scope with an iPad, so everything is tiny. I have to use the remote software's "mouse". I read there is a button to return to default, but I couldn't find it on the imaging page with all the windows mucked up. Ha, today I have to set up and get back to defaults while I continue to learn where stuff is. Without this video however, I would have been stopped in my tracks much more quickly. You have to learn to walk before you can fly.

[@cdh79]

Thanks, that's really useful.. does the AZ-GTi need to be set to EQ mode every time it's started up new? I just got it, and am still waiting for the counter-balance-bar, so I haven't used it yet.

[@PatriotAstro]

Mine seems to need that set every time. If you just stick with the Synscan App, it doesn't really matter since you need to start it anyway. But for EQMOD, I still need to get into synscan to 'wake it up' :)

[@PatriotAstro]

quick note: If you are comfortable with opening up electronics/mechanical devices, you may want to get into the AzGTi mount and clean it up. Mine came with all sorts of metal shavings inside it that negatively affected my guiding at first. I'm sure the manufacturer says not to do this, so be careful if you do. :)

[@cdh79]

​@@PatriotAstro thanks.. i will be using EQMOD or GSS as well, so I guess it'll be the same.. in regards to the cleaning: I've already opened it up to have a quick look on the day that I got it, but at least at first glance I didn't notice any metal shavings. I did not fully take it apart yet though, so there may still be a lot hiding under the PCB or the gears. I wanted to first give it a run, so I have an understanding where it's performance is at from the factory, and then take it apart and re-grease it at a later stage so I can compare. I used to have an AZ-EQ6 in 2016 and I replaced the worm gear bearings on both axis with SKF ones, and for that took the whole mount apart. I also found that my specific unit had metal shavings from a press-fitted bearing that seemingly must have been hammered in, as the cage had a lot of dents and there were lots of metal shavings in the grease. QC of the Skywatcher mounts really isn't great. Thanks for the heads-up though. :)

[@PatriotAstro]

@@cdh79 You've definitely got this sorted! :) Clear Skies!

[@alfredobeltran611]

Very good video. Thank you for posting it. I have a question. I'm a long time SGP user and one feature that I like is the capability of stop guiding when clouds come in and then, after are gone, resume guiding. How can you configure that in NINA? Thanks, Alfredo

[@PatriotAstro]

The way NINA deals with this is by using the 2 following trigger instructions: Center after Drift and Resume Guiding. Resume Guiding will ensure guiding restarts if it ever stops during that part of the sequence. Center after Drift will check you image centering via a background platesolve every some number of frames (definable). It then compares the new location to the expected location and if it drifted more than you allowed, it will recenter the target. So, while it doesn't detect clouds and stop guiding, ... it will be able to recover from clouds, animal issues, cable snag, etc. Just place and configure both of those instructions in your trigger section.

[@alfredobeltran611]

Thank you Chad. Totally worth trying.

[@PatriotAstro]

@@alfredobeltran611 I have a video demonstrating this capability coming very soon, maybe even 24 hours from now. :) Be on the lookout!

[@alfredobeltran611]

@@PatriotAstro Excellent! Your proposed solution will recover guiding after the defined amount of frames has drifted. But, if the mount tracks correctly, and is well polar aligned, the drift will be very slow, so the question would be how to define that treshold. Let’s say clouds come in and after a while (let’s assume 15 min) that area of the sky is clear. Then a trigger should be in a loop to check sky conditions and, if it’s clear, then begin to capture the next frame. How could it be done?

[@PatriotAstro]

@@alfredobeltran611 It is important to understand the entire process. We are taking pictures and clouds roll through, the first threshold we meet is the frame count (how often we background plate solve to see if drift occurs). But, the clouds are still in the way so the plate solve doesn't provide data because the clouds are in the way. And the system is still happily taking pictures of clouds, that are useless to us. Also, at this point, guiding is failing because there is no guide star to lock on to. So, this is when drift could occur, and with a really good mount and PA, you may not drift much at all. (And that is a good thing, these instructions are a safety net and are hopefully never needed.) Ok, now... eventually... the clouds part and we are able to resume guiding! Great, but if we drifted too much, we just locked onto a guidestar that is keeping us in our drifted position... not good. Then we wait for the next frame count threshold (defined as every X frames by you). While continuing to take images, of the potentially off target sky, ... the plate solve determines we are outside our drift tolerance (X arc-minutes, that also calculates pixels for you). The trigger parameter is now ready, after the current exposure ends, to stop the sequence and force a full "Slew and Center" to occur. This brings us back to where we want to be and guiding on that location is re-activated. Remember, triggers are checked BEFORE every instruction, so once the conditions are met, that is when it will kick in and override the system temporarily... just like a Meridian Flip Trigger does, etc. One follow-on point to make is that this is not meant to save you on disk space by stopping the taking of images throughout, it doesn't do sky quality or other similar detection, it is all about coordinates. You will still have to throw away the bad frames. BUT, you don't lose a chunk of the night to bad framing. I see this as being more regularly helpful for people that have cheaper mounts, bad PA, issues after meridian flips occur, plus the regulars of clouds and animals, etc.

[@troyhunter4740]

awesome video!!, but jeez you fly through things so quickly, Nothing wrong with a video that goes for an hour or two.

[@PatriotAstro]

Thanks! Duration is a difficult balance. From my end, a longer video means much more editing and review, which is very time consuming. But from the watching side, I have found that there seem to be 'sweet spots' in the video length that is dependent on the type of material covered. If the video goes too long, people actually end up watching less of it than if it were shorter. Long story short (no pun intended), I've settle on mid-weight videos when possible that I hope are thorough enough to be valuable, allow you to see onscreen callouts (without it being excessive) or pause as needed, and also try to cover smaller chunks in separate videos that contain greater detail. All in all, it is a ton of work, but I hope you are enjoying them and are able to get what you need out of them. Clear Skies!