AC | Formula Hybrid 2023 @RedBullRing |

[@ntst22]

Telemetry: www.unitedracingdata.com/telemetry/s/0vK0BIuNyMjnC3lheLaP/l/3NnR7QUs7bih8MCiO5n4

[@yangrui168]

Can I transfer your video? It will be credited to the author and the link.

[@ntst22]

​@@yangrui168go ahead :)

[@yangrui168]

@@ntst22 Thx Man

[@mistersir3185]

Absolute animal! As Red Bull team would've put it. Also nice save right there 1:56 . S/O to you for being so transparent about the setup and tools you used. Not many do that. But I gotta say I am slightly concerned that the car ran out of fuel so early.

[@ntst22]

Thank you for your comment! I did leave the fuel at 5L since I geared the setup towards 1-lap performance. Feel free to add a bit more fuel and see how the car behaves. Some changes might have to be made, but I believe it's a good base setup :) Also, feel free to add a new comment, or continue the thread if you have any questions - I check the comments pretty often.

[@AlbiM1]

Great lap buddy💪🏻💪🏻

[@ntst22]

Thank you!💪

[@yangrui168]

Best driver ever, thank you for sharing to make AC better.

[@dougdude69]

Great lap! I'm getting ready to tackle the track this weekend. Any suggestions for MGU delivery methods? I assume you adjust to attack somewhere during the lap. I'm trying to figure out the mgu methods and what works best. Also, any chance of ever uploading your setups to google drive or some other platform?

[@ntst22]

Hello, thank you for the comment! For MGU-k modes, I usually leave it in "Build", and deploy the ERS whenever I want to (make sure you have a button bound). As for recovery modes, usually the higher the better, as you can recover more battery during a stint. Only draw back is that it can increase braking distances. Only other thing to note is that if you do want to save more battery, you can change from ERS mode from 'Motor' to 'Battery', will help harvest a bit more ERS. As for setups, it has been suggested that I put the setups on platform to make it easier for someone, and it's on my to-do list. I'll have a Google Drive link posted soon :))

[@dougdude69]

@@ntst22 thanks for the reply! So when you say deploy, does that mean attack?

[@ntst22]

No, so I have an "ERS Deploy" button bound in the AC settings. That allows me to deploy the battery whenever I push the button.

[@bluebatracing208]

@@ntst22 Hmm... ok, I think I might be doing something wrong. I thought it just auto deployed when you changed the method from "no deploy" to "attack." I'll have to see if I can find the actual deploy button. When I'm hotlapping, I guess your way would allow me to leave it in "attack" and then just deploy when I want it instead of having some auto deploy method when changing from no deploy to attack. That sound right?

[@ntst22]

So it does auto-deploy on all the modes except "no-deploy". I just override it because sometimes, even in attack, it doesn't deploy 100% power if you're at the top of the speed/Rev-range. So attack will deploy 100% from 3-7th gear for example, but will come down at the top of 8th gear to about 60%. Using a button makes sure you get 100%, even at the top of 8th gear. You'll notice on other hotlaps, I have it in build, as the ERS deploy is not as aggressive, and makes it a bit more consistent. I just happened to have it in attack, since the setup allows for it, and I found that I sometimes had left-over ERS at thr end of the lap, which is worth a few hundredths.

[@ultrainstinct1181]

Remove the blur mate,it's unnatural 😂. anyways good lap...your shifting is defs not natural but ok,what works works..good one.

[@ntst22]

Ya, should probably get rid of the blur. Can I ask what part of the shifting is not natural? I thought the shifting points were alright, and the downshifting, although quick, is something that they do IRL (refer to Max's pole lap last year at RedBull Ring)

[@r1ckyy-]

@@ntst22 I think he's trying to say that it feels completely different from reality, which I kind of think as well. It felt like an F1 game hot lap. Great job on the lap! Don't take this comment as a hate comment, it's just my personal opinion.

[@ntst22]

Ya, I understand. I just want to see how I can improve the qualities of my videos. Any constructive comment I take seriously, and I try to implement them :D

[@ntst22]

@ultrainstinct1181 @r1ckyy- If you don't mind, can you guys check my recent videos? I turned down the motion blur in those videos, would appreciate some feedback :D

[@BuzzInept]

Might wanna fix that title ahaha, nice lap mate

[@ntst22]

Oops

[@zsoltimatyas4682]

Hi im on the verge of pulling out my hair because i cant figure out why my tires overheat like crazy (im very new to this track) what ambient temp are you running ? Or just a skill issue ?

[@ntst22]

First, I'm running 10c ambient, which is quite cold. Furthermore, it's a qualifying setup, so it's geared more towards one lap performance, rather than a full race stint. Though in some testing, I didn't have that big of an issue running in 25c ambient. There are a few things that can contribute to higher tire temps (besides track temp) - setup and driving. Most obvious thing is the choice of tire. C5 is going to generate a lot of heat, compared to the C3, and the C3 is going to be more resistant to generating temperature. I'd make sure the pressures are optimal (refer to car-manual) when the tire is within the operating window, if not adjust tire pressures accordingly. The setup already minimizes generation of tire temperature - I'm already running really low toe angle, and the dampers don't contribute nearly as much to tire temperature as toe angle does. You can try reducing the camber angle (make it closer to 0) to help increase the contact patch of the tire. In general, softening the car will help reduce tire temp as well, though can cause the car to feel "lazier". In terms of driving style, you could be scrubbing the tires too much - that is when you're applying too much steering angle at once. I do find that trail-braking can help reduce generation of tire temperature as well. In general, being smoother on inputs (steering and pedal) can help reduce tire temperature. One thing that could be possible (haven't tested extensively), is the generation of tire temp from brake temperature. You may notice when I brake on the video, the graph on the top of the screen changes the tire temp to a visual of brake temp. In real life, braking can generate a lot of heat (up to 1000c), and that heat can soak into the tires. What they do to combat that in real life is to lift-and-coast. Again, I'm not sure how much heat gets transferred from the brakes to tires, but that could be a possibility as well.

[@zsoltimatyas4682]

@@ntst22 bwoah thank you for the detailed explanation👍 i will try it next time

[@garb.5220]

how do you not die in turn 3? if only i could do t3 correctly i could shave off so much time on my laps

[@ntst22]

Pushing the brake bias forward (to 54, 55%) can help with T3. If you can't change the brake bias, I would recommend just setting the brake balance at 54/55%

[@garb.5220]

@@ntst22 thanks ill try it out soon whenever i get on

[@garb.5220]

@@ntst22 so uh i figured it out, i was just applying the throttle too early lmao, i shaved off a half second vs my previous pb with a horrible t1 and slightly better but still bad t3

[@lucamilan87]

Why you didn't use DRS after turn 1 ?

[@ntst22]

I'm using the base Kunos version, of which did not have a DRS zone between turn 1-3.

[@ntst22]

You can see where i have DRS available. When the DRS light on the dash (at the top of the screen)is yellow, it means it is available, when it is green, it means it is Open.

[@DaHaus-q6i]

I need a skin brooo

[@ntst22]

www.racedepartment.com/downloads/rss-formula-hybrid-2023-mclaren-mcl60-triple-crown-livery.60851/