Accurate Serger Seam Allowance

[@citizenaim1]

I was super excited when I watched this, thinking, "Oh wow could it really be that easy" and then went to look at my new serger (a Juki MO-50e) and sadly it doesn't have these notches or any other guidelines. Kind of considering making a mark on the foot.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Aimee, Because you don't have needle indicator ridges on your presser foot, Draw a line on your scrap fabric at the designated seam allowance. Then line up your left or right needle (depending on stitch selection) with the line and watch how much fabric the knife trims off. If you align your project fabric in the same manner, you'll get an accurate seam allowance. Let me know if you need more help and thanks for watching!

[@DeneeLabbee]

Gail Yellen l

[@bettychamplin8751]

How does the width needle set effect the width of stitch?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Betty, I'm not sure what "width needle set" set means. I want to help you. Can you clarify your question a bit? Thanks-will wait to hear from you.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

I always baste my seams on garments to be sure of the fit -especially if I've never made it before.

[@karenderbes5943]

me too Gail! I was just going to ask you if this is a good practice, thanks!

[@carolyndaly4764]

Can you you do a 1/4 in seam allowance. And how?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Carolyn, If you set your cutting/stitch width to 6.0 , skim off the whiskers, with a 4-thread overlock stitch, you'll have a perfect 1/4" seam.Let me know if you have any other questions and thanks for watching!

[@user-22-]

Very helpful, thanks.

[@ivybichon8582]

How would I figure out a 5/8 inch for thread Overlock seam allowance. That’s where I get lost.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Chalk a line 5/8" from the raw edge to be sewn. Your left overlock needle should be aligned with the guideline. It doesn't matter how much of the fabric edge is trimmed. All that matters is that the guideline is 5/8" from the edge. Hope that helps.

[@yvonneblackmon2879]

Ms Sterns. Do you know if there is a inspirational manual for the ovation and does it come with your machine. Also. Thank you for your tutorials. So very clear and helpful.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Yvonne, This is Gail Yellen-you watched my Tip Clip on Accurate Seam Allowances. There is an Inspirational Guide for the Ovation, however it was an additional cost. (I think it was around $175?.) The Ovation is no longer manufactured but a dealer might have an Inspirational Guide available. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@pattyarrowsmith3515]

You draw the seam allowance on every seam?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@pattyarrowsmith3515 hi Patty, No I never draw seam lines on projects. That was done to illustrate that even if the knife trims off part of the seam allowance, as long as your needle that forms the seam is positioned the correct distance from the raw edge, your seam allowance is accurate. Thanks for watching!

[@3939889ISME]

What’s the difference would make if we dial the width dial and length dial?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

The stitch length dial has 2 different modes: standard and rolled hem. If your dial is on "rolled hem" you will disengage the stitch finger and automatically narrow down the seam allowance. On the "standard" setting, the stitch finger is engaged and makes the seam allowance wider. The stitch width dial moves the stitch finger right or left. The further right it is, the wider you'll make the stitch. Here is a link to a longer video that will help you understand how your serger works and the various components: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r4OrZZZsnr16qrs. Stitch length itself won't affect the seam allowance. Let me know if you have more questions. Thanks!

[@3939889ISME]

@@GailPatriceDesign oh my goodness. Thanks so much. I am so new to overlocker and trying to learn and see a T-shirt with it.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@3939889ISME Feel free to ask. questions. I love helping "newbies" understand sergers. Go through my Tip Clips to pick and choose as ypu see things you wonder about. And I'' fill in any info. Thanks!

[@cheryls4526]

What do you do if you don't draw a line down your fabric.? what do the L and R letters stand for on the right of the cutter? when do we use those?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Cheryl, You can align the needle indicator ridges (left or right needle) on the toe of the presser foot with the designated seam allowance from the raw edge of the fabric. The L and R are for whether you are using the left or right needle to form the seam line. Once your fabric is properly aligned, watch how much the knife is cutting off. If it remains consistent from beginning to the end, your seam allowance will be accurate and even. When starting out, you can put a small dot at the seam line (for instance 1/4", 1/2" or 5/8" from the raw edge), and practice keeping your stitching straight. Again, watch how much is being cut off and keep that little strip of fabric a consistent width. As you get comfortable with the process, you'll be able to "eyeball" it quickly. Let me know if you need more help and thanks!

[@cheryls4526]

Gail Yellen ok. Thank you. Thumbs up

[@dcwatashi]

Gee, I feel like you did this one for me. Because of my other questions. But it still seems like I would have to use maybe a tracing wheel to Mark the seam line. I've noticed that the higher-end overlock machines have the seam allowance engraved right above the knife. However mine does not so looks like it's the tracing wheel and tracing paper.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

You don't have to mark the entire seam allowance from the beginning edge to the end. Just mark your starting edge at the designated width. Once you start stitching, just watch the amount trimmed off by the knife. Let the knife trim a consistent amount and you'll have an accurTe seam allowance. That works whether you have the theleft or just the right overlock needle creating the seam. I never use the markings on the machine as my guide.let me know if I can offer more help-thanks!

[@dcwatashi]

Gail Yellen first I would like to thank you for responding so promptly. It is a true sign of a professional KZbin channel. I think what I will do on the garments that I am not sure will fit I would just Serge the individual pieces first. Because you did mention make sure that it fits before you do this. And the only way I can see that happening is you would have to baste your seams, try it on, make any necessary alterations and then try your method

[@zinnia20207]

I love your tutorials. I was hoping the Triumph was going to have laser like the Destiny II. It's hard to follow the little notch.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Who knows? Maybe they'll include a laser on a future model. Not a bad idea-thanks!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Who knows? Maybe they'll include a laser on a future model. Not a bad idea-thanks!

[@donnaschindlbeck7457]

Thank you Gail. What are the LR marks for on the white part of the machine?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Donna The LR marks designate positions for the Left or Right needle. Excellent question!

[@3939889ISME]

@@GailPatriceDesign but what are those for? Mine baby lock overlocker also have this and I am unsure what are they. Also I never drew a line on my project, unsure how to ensure I have correct seam allowance

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@3939889ISME Hi! I never draw lines on an actual project. I drew the line on the fabric so that viewers can understand how to align their fabric under the presser foot in relation to which needle (right or left) is forming the seam. You can use a chalk or erasable mark noting the seam allowance at the starting edge of your project. If using a 4-thread overlock, sink your left needle into the fabric on that mark. If using just the right needle, sink that needle at the mark. Then watch how much fabric the knife trims off. As long as you trim off a consistent amount, you'll have an accurate seam allowance. The lines on the machine also denote where to align the fabric edge. As I mentioned in the video, I never use them because I don't think they are as accurate as my method. But there's nothing wrong with using them if they work for you. Check your owner's manual and it will tell you which mark is for each seam allowance. Let me know if you need more help and re-watch the Tip Clip. It will help you understand the concept of an accurate seam allowance. Thanks for watching!

[@learntocrochet1]

My serger does not have any marks to help follow along. I have trouble watching the knife - my hands move the fabric the wrong way while watching!. I think I'm going to either make marks on the 'door', or glue on a ruler. If I use the ruler, I'll have to decide if I align to 3 or 4 thread and adjust for the opposite one.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

What ever method that works best for you is the correct one. But I would practice with longer strips of scrap fabric. Draw stitching lines on at various seam allowance widths and practice watching the knife area. It takes repetition but I am sure you will get the hang of it. I don't think you're giving yourself enough time to learn to manage the fabric with ease. When you stitch seams on your sewing machine, rather than watching the needle, we watch the edge of the presser foot in relation to the fabric edge. This is the same principle with the knife on your serger. That said, if your seam allowances still aren't accurate, find the method that gives the best results-that's the best answer. Let me know if you need more help and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@texasproud8822]

Thanks

[@ELCPAKansas]

Is the discount available any longer? I tried. :-)

[@GailPatriceDesign]

That discount expired a few months ago, but thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@bettychamplin8751]

Love your earrings

[@learntocrochet1]

I forgot to ask: do all sergers allow you to adjust the knife? Mine doesn't seem to do so and there is nothing in my rather skimpy handbook about this. I called a shop that sells my brand and they were "unfamiliar with my model" (it's old).

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Love Music what make and model do you have? If it’s very old, it might not have an adjustable knife. Let me know and I’ll try to find out if you can move it.

[@Sugarkryptonite]

I also have an old machine, and had to move it manually by undoing some screws and moving the knives over.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Pendemic there are lots of design improvements on newer sergers that streamline moving the knife or disengaging the stitch finger etc.

[@learntocrochet1]

@@GailPatriceDesign It is a Pfaff 4862. The instruction book does not say the knife is adjustable. And from what I investigated I don't think it is. I shall adapt!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@learntocrochet1 Hello again! Good news-the dial on the left side of the machine bed (with numbers on it) will move the knife right or left. It is #13 "Adjusting knob for seam width". Let me know if you need more help. Here is the link to the instruction manual: www.sewingpartsonline.com/instruction-manual-pfaff-coverlock-4862.aspx

[@mardellgrayhek9958]

I seem to run off the edge at times, especially if I am trying to edge items such as napkins or burp cloths for babies. I want to find a way to be more consistent with my accuracy now that I seem to have mastered the tension. I have enjoyed your videos and received your book as a gift.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

If you are finishing the edges of napkins, etc with a rolled hem and have a tendency to "fall off" the edge, try moving your knife a tiny bit to the right. It will trim off slightly less fabric and give the stitch a better chance (and more fabric) to hold onto. Don't watch the needle(s)- watch the knife and the amount of fabric you're trimming off. You also might find it helpful to angle your fabric slightly to the right as it approaches the knife. Let me know if these suggestions help or if you need more info. Thanks for watching!

[@mardellgrayhek9958]

Thank you I will give these tips a try. I have a tendency to watch the needle. I haven't adjusted my knife before either so this is very helpful!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Great-I'll be anxious to hear your new results!