#SERGER

[@kimsteele7714]

You know I really needed to hear, “don’t watch the needles, they know what to do on their own.” I was always watching the needle and had trouble keeping my stitching straight. Thanks so much for such simple advice, it is a big help.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Kim, you have lots of company watching the needles. It’s a natural tendency. Glad the video was helpful and if you have questions, let me know. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@donnarae8823]

Your amazing. I took an in person class to learn the Serger and the instructor never discussed seam allowance. I bought videos and they have nothing on seam allowances. This is the first tutorial I've gotten and it is so detailed.. Oh I just can't thank you enough. Your the best!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Seam allowance on a serger can be difficult to understand and explain. Glad the Tip Clip was helpful and thanks for watching Donna!

[@lydiagonzalez-pl2it]

This was immensely helpful. I didn’t understand seams in serging, now because of your video I do. Thank you.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

That’s wonderful to hear Lydia. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@allnaturalbrown]

WOW!! I've be Demystified! Hahaha!!! This has boggled my brain and you cleared that up beautifully!! Thank you very much, Gail!!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

You’re welcome and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@shavala2589]

Thank you Gail, you made so easy. I am so grateful you are doing videos. Can't wait for more.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching!

[@christinejohnstone3626]

Thank you for finally clearing this up. BTW, I have been serging for yers and just "guessing". I am now a subscriber

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Glad the Tip Clips was helpful and thanks for subscribing Christine!

[@aleciacope3503]

I'm one step closer to buying a L890 machine with each of your videos!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Alecia, I love my L890! Do a “test drive” at a local dealer and let me know what you think. I’ll be happy to answer any questions and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@DeborahRose-xq9ik]

It's an amazing, user friendly machine. We've waited a long time for this machine to be created!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@DeborahRose-xq9ik It is a fantastic, very user-friendly serger. The built in videos are like having a friendly teacher next to you!

[@lynnehrmantraut9167]

Best machine ever

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@lynnehrmantraut9167 you’re absolutely correct Lynne! Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@lizbrodeur6566]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@lizbrodeur6566 Glad the video was helpful and thanks for watching Liz!

[@donnaeversole1793]

Thank you so much for posting these tips in video. They are such a good resource for questions that arise. I’m still learning my serger. I never used the old one because I never mastered it.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Donna, please send any questions you have. I want you to feel knowledgeable and confident with your serger and I’ll always be happy to answer your questions. Sergers are very different from sewing machines and there’s a learning curve. Thanks for watching!

[@Lawry579]

This was very helpful. Thank you for sharing 🙏

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Glad it was helpful and thank you for watching Serger Tip Clips,

[@jesspeak7543]

Thank you Gail, that was a very helpful tutorial.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Glad it was helpful and thanks for watching, Jess!

[@Karen-bj7lc]

Thank you or this great server tip. I had been "guesstimating". Now I really understand, and this will help my accuracy a lot.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Happy to help Karen. If you have questions, don’t hesitate to ask and thanks for watching!

[@carolineprijs-wijnen4487]

Thank you for this clear video

[@GailPatriceDesign]

You’re welcome Caroline and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@brendabrown4356]

Thank you for explaining this. I just ordered the L890 and was wondering about this.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Oh Brenda, you're in for a treat! I'll be happy to answer any questions as you get to know and love your new L890! The built-in videos are amazing!!! Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@brendabrown4356]

@@GailPatriceDesign thanks. I am really enjoying your videos.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@brendabrown4356 I love teaching and will enjoy hearing how you’re doing with the L890.

[@francinemilette8535]

Thank you so much, this really helps!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Happy to clear up some mystery about seam allowances on Sergers and thanks for watching Francine!

[@bayfilly1]

Very helpful ! Thank you

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Thanks for watching Tom and happy to help!

[@patshaw4922]

What a great explanation, thank you so much x

[@GailPatriceDesign]

So glad the Tip Clip was helpful, Pat. Thanks for watching!

[@big_ted]

Really helpful, thanks ❤

[@GailPatriceDesign]

You're welcome and thanks for watching!

[@valerystclair4022]

Thank you for this, it is very helpful and understandable! Will you please comment on how you dial in your cutting width to be so accurate and make such nice stitches. Do you just pick a width or is there some formula or suggestion for how much fabric should be left on for garments, for knits and or cotton’s etc. ??

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Valerie, The cutting width depends on the type of project I'm working on. Usually for knit garments I select a 3-thread narrow stitch and the seam allowance is approx. 1/4"-inch. For woven garments and projects where there will be stress on a seam (hopefully not too much stress on woven garments!), I use a 4-thread overlock with a wider seam allowance (up to approx. 1/2".) For the BERNINA L890, the stitch finger and knife move simultaneously right and left so that the knife is always in the correct position for whichever cutting width I select. Let me know if you need more help or clarification on this info and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@corneshaevans1867]

So helpful! Thank you!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Glad the video was helpful Cornesha and thanks for watching!

[@BoltonLass]

Great informative video, my aha moment 😍

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi, Seam allowances on a serger can be confusing for everyone. I think it’s due to the knife trimming away some of the raw edge. Hope this video makes it easier to understand. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@lidabard2121]

Thank you Gail!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

You’re welcome Lida and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@saraaronzon4562]

I’m not so scared anymore. Thank you 😊

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Sara, Don't be scared-it's such a fun machine. and remeber, I'm just an email away if you need help. I'll be happy to hear from you. Happy holidays to you and your family!

[@Nonna_Tina]

Thanks this was so helpful

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Thanks for watch Tina and let me know if you have questions.

[@deoara1]

Good clear directions

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Thanks for watching Deo and glad it was helpful!

[@highenergyjenny]

Thank you!!!!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@highenergyjenny thanks for watching Jenny!

[@alipearce8301]

Really helpful

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Thanks Ali. It’s an important concept to understand.

[@ameliacarey3315]

Thank you. Seam allowances have been a little tricky. ❤

[@GailPatriceDesign]

I’ll be happy to answer any questions you have, Amelia and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@aalycaat]

Thank you so much 😻✨💚

[@GailPatriceDesign]

You’re welcome-glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching and happy holidays!

[@lynnleipold2617]

I love this! What a help you are. Thanks. I’ve had the L890 since it came out. What a great serger it is. I still kept my Babylock Ovation though.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Lynn, Glad this Tip Clip was so helpful. No such thing as too many sergers in your studio! Thanks for watching.

[@ZeldaSews]

I Gail! I am new to your channel and I stopped by because I'm trying to learn anything I can about my serger. I have not even pulled it out of the closet yet, so I had to start there first.😅

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Zelda, What serger do you own? Unbox it, thread it up and let's get serging! I'll be very happy to help you> Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@maryt2887]

Thanks for this! I’ve been afraid to sew my garment seams.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Mary, /Now you know how to stitch confidently. Just double check the fit before trimming off the seam allowance. If you trim off a consistent amount, the seam will be very accurate. Thanks for watching!

[@andreawalker2535]

Thanks!!!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

You're welcome, Andrea and thanks for watching!

[@ritaadler-everett5392]

Thank you for the clear demonstration. For myself, who does not have a wonderful stitch guide on my serger, like yours, do you have tips or tricks to help maintain that accurate seam allowance? If I am serging something that really requires precision, I will draw in my s.a. like you did, but I don't always want to take that extra time consuming step. Thank you!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Rita, on real projects, I don’t draw on seam allowances. That was for demonstration.I just line up the needle in the correct position and stitch. I watch how much fabric is trimmed off and if it’s a consistent amount, the seam allowance is also. Clover makes a clever product “Stitch ‘n Stick” that works well as a seam guide and doesn’t leave any residue on your machine. Or you can use a stack of Post It notes as a guide also. If you look through my Tip Clips, you’ll see one on Stitch ‘n Stick. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@ritaadler-everett5392]

@@GailPatriceDesign Thank you so much!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@ritaadler-everett5392 you’re welcome Rita!

[@Vegnak59]

Thank you, Gail, for your informative Tip Clips! I had already figured out how to line up my seam line with the needle marking on the presser foot, but that sliding seam guide you're using is magical!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@Vegnak59 Hi, Yes the seam guide is fantastic. Silly me for not using it during the first 2 years I had the L890!🙄

[@buckleberriequilts5132]

Thanks Gail! I took your serger class a while ago at Bernina World of Sewing in Raleigh, NC. Because of that, I am no longer afraid of my serger. 😊😊. Now, for me, finding the accurate seam allowance is still a challenge since I do not draw seam lines onto my fabric pieces. Do I need to do that to ensure an accurate seam allowance?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi, I’m glad you and your serger are friends now. I should have made it clear in the Tip Clip that I never draw seam allowance lines on actual projects. That was just for the video. Make a mark at the beginning edge of your project fabric at the designated width from the raw edge. Align the left needle if using that or the right needle if you aren’t using the left one. watch how much the knife is trimming off. If the trimmed width is consistent, you’ve got an accurate seam allowance. Does that help you? Let me know and thanks for watching!

[@buckleberriequilts5132]

@@GailPatriceDesign yes Gail. Thank you. I’m still concerned with maintaining a consistent allowance around curves (sleeve inserts for example) but I see how this can help. Thank you so much. Are you coming back our way anytime in the near future?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@buckleberriequilts5132 take your time going around curves. They can be challenging for me too. Keep you eye on the March calendar. I’ll be in your neighborhood! Thanks very much for asking.♥️

[@buckleberriequilts5132]

@@GailPatriceDesign yippee!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@buckleberriequilts5132 I’m excited too!

[@def3797]

I have never been on good terms with my serger. Never could figure out accurate seam allowances. The guide is too far away from the edge of fabric and I wasn’t sure of marks on foot. For once I see what it takes to figure it out. Thanks so much!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

I am so glad you have a handle on seam allowance now. Believe me when I tell you, there are many sewists who have had the same dilemma! Thanks for watching and if you have any other questions, let me know!

[@babeage]

Thanks for this explanation. My question are: Do you always mark your seam allowance widths before serging so you have an accurate seam? That seems very tedious (but maybe necessary to achieve such excellent results); and (2) Do you know of any Babylock seam guides for the Evolution serger? The Bernina attachment won't work with it (of course due to competition, which I totally understand). Just looking for a hack before I return the attachment for the L80. This really was helpful though. Thanks again.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi, I have a Part 2 of the Seam Allowance Tip Clip that will be posted soon. No I never mark the whole seam allowance on my projects. That was done for the camera and to show viewers that I was still using a 5/8” seam allowance, etc. But many viewers misinterpreted that I do this on projects.I haven’t seen a seam guide for the Evolution but check with your dealer to be sure. If you have more questions, let me know and thanks for watching!

[@babeage]

Thanks for your quick response. And thanks for the great videos!@@GailPatriceDesign

[@lur9889]

16:00 28/7/23 - helpful but what are the other ridge lines on the presser foot for??

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi, on a combo serger there are 5 indicator ridges. beginning left, those are for the cover/chainstitch needles and the second from right and the right one are the overlock needle ridges. On the BERNINA foot there is also a slight indented line on the right that shows cutting width when the dial is set on 6. Hope that helps and thanks!

[@cassieoz1702]

So the indicator ridges are only useful if youve drawn seam lines on all your sewing?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Cassie, I don’t draw lines on any of my projects. align the indicator ridge that corresponds to the needle that will form the seam the correct distance from the raw edge of your fabric and your seam allowance will be accurate. If you keep your eye on how much the knife trims off and keep it consistent, your seam allowance will be perfect from start to finish. If a pattern calls for a 5/8” seam allowance and I’m using a 4 thread overlock stitch, the left indicator ridge is positioned 5/8” from the raw edge. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching! Maybe I’ll talk about this topic again in a Serger Savvy on KZbin Live. They are Live 2nd Tuesday of the month at noon ET.

[@Fattiapples]

I see so width of stitch should be included in seam allowance. On a server machine I’m looking to purchase the seam guide marks on the knife cover plate is the distance from where the blade cuts and not from left needle. Does this mean I should just look at marks on presser foot and not confused myself with the seam marks on the cover plate? Maybe seam marks on cover plate are not as useful vs a mark on foot?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi, In overlock mode, I never use the guide marks on the knife guard plate. I align either the left or right needle on the designated seam allowance (from the fabric raw edge) then watch how much the knife is trimming off. If it's a consistent width, then the seam allowance is accurate. Let me know if you have more questions and thanks for watching!

[@Fattiapples]

@@GailPatriceDesign I see thank you. I didn’t like the placement of the marks on the knife plate and was going to not purchase because of this. But maybe I shouldn’t rule the machine out bc of this detail if I should be looking at lining my fabric up with the needles and presser foot instead.

[@Fattiapples]

@@GailPatriceDesign but if I didn’t want to use sewing machine to do my seam first or I also don’t want to mark my seam with a pen, how would I guide my fabric to do the accurate seam allowance? Just see how much fabric hangs off the right side of presser foot and use that as a guide?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@Fattiapples If you measure and mark your seam allowance with just a dot, then line up your needle with it. Watch where the knife is trimming and keep trimming off the same width. Also, the Seam Guide on the BERNINA L850, 860 and 890 is amazing. Check out my Tip Clip on it!

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@Fattiapples You can use chalk to make a very small mark and yes, watch the right side of the presser foot. You’ve got it!

[@michaelduke4500]

I wondered how that worked with a serger.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Let me know if you have any questions, Michael and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@PauletteSchlee]

Which brand of server are you using that that has the seam guide attachment? Thank you.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi, I am using a BERNINA L890 combo overlock/coverstitch serger. The. seam guide also fits the L850 and L860 overlock only models. Let me know if you have more questions and thanks for watching!

[@PauletteSchlee]

Thank you even though I misspelled or typo the SERGER. I’m using a baby lock triumph. R U aware if there is this type attachment for this machine?

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@PauletteSchlee You probably didn't misspell "serger," autocorrect did! As far as I know, there isn't a seam guide that's similar for the Triumph. But check with your dealer or the babylock.com website. Thanks for watching!

[@lyntonblair9016]

how do I know where to cut the fabric prior to serging the seam? currently (for the sewing m/c) I cut at the seam allowance (eg 1/2" from the seam line).

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Lynton, you’ll still cut the fabric along the the cutting line. That doesn’t vary no matter what the seam allowance is. You then can decide where you want the cutting width. If a seam allowance is just 1/4” or 3/8”, you’ll probably just Skim off the whiskers on the fabric edge and maybe trim just a tiny bit off the fabric. You have to experiment and practice to get cutting width just right. Let me know if you need more help and thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@lyntonblair9016]

@@GailPatriceDesign thanks Gail; I assume that by "cutting line" you refer to a pattern? (I don't use patterns, so I work from the seam line and add seam allowance as I think fit).

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@lyntonblair9016 Hi Lynton, yes I was referring to pattern cutting lines. It you add your own seam allowances, then just skim off the whiskers to clean up the raw edges. Position the fabric edge so that it just “kisses” the knife as it goes by and any little threads will be trimmed off. Thanks. (I’d love to see some of your creations.)

[@gertrudewelsh781]

I wish my serger had that guide.😢

[@GailPatriceDesign]

Hi Gertrude, I didn’t use the seam guide until I had the L890 for almost 2 years! When I finally did use it, I was amazed at how great is was. Thanks for watching Serger Tip Clips!

[@dcwatashi]

I don’t have that either. We will just have to get creative. I do have a magnetic seam guide that might be able to stick to that metal part just before the knife.

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@dcwatashi You can purchase the Clover Stitch 'n Stick at Joann's, your sewing machine dealer or Amazon. But a block of Post It notes also works!😁

[@dcwatashi]

@@GailPatriceDesign actually already have that if it’s the one that was designed by Nancy I forgot her last name right now

[@GailPatriceDesign]

@@dcwatashi yes, Nancy Zieman designed the Stitch ‘n Stick. It’s a wonderful notion.