Insulate Rim Joists With DuPont Froth-Pak Spray Foam Insulation

[@mikefarmer4079]

Rob is excellent. He speaks clearly, without making it about him, and he has a common sense, down to earth, way of communicating to us.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@mikefarmer4079 wow thanks Mike!

[@scottarnold5215]

Great video! Thanks to this video showcasing the DuPont Froth-Pak spray foam insulation, I now have the confidence to tackle my own insulation project! The step-by-step explanation and tips were super helpful. Great content! Thanks for the helpful tips Rob, you are always my go to for tool advice and how to's. Happy Holidays!!

[@z06doc86]

I wish this was available 30 years ago when I finished my 1500 sq ft basement. Not quite ready to redo drywall work but considering it in the future.

[@flyfishnewengland]

Helpful video. Have been considering buying on these packs - and am now sold on doing so. Thx Rob!

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Happy to help

[@IppiopaidFEEDBACK]

The first step is to start with the shop vac preferably with a bristle attachment (just for agitating up debris) so you can vacuum up all the insects, brick dust, insulation, mice droppings etc. Even if you’re not going to spray it yourself, and you’re going to have a company do it, this step needs to be done first! After I clean up the area (because I have OCD) are usually mist the area down with clean water, if there’s brick foundation or, if it was really dusty. The little bit of moisture will help it to bond better if it was dusty. Besides, the stuff cures by the moisture in the air anyway, just like Gorilla glue tells you the moistened the surface before applying to glue, it’s all the same chemical make up.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@IppiopaidFEEDBACK good approach on the vac- I did that too.

[@Jared_Albert]

Thank you for demoing the frothpak product. Jmo spray foam will be like asbestos. Banks in uk not lending on spray foam on roof deck. At some point rot on sills will be in that category

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@Jared_Albert rot on sill will only happen if people don’t maintain the exterior of their homes- the foam creates a complete vapor barrier preventing mild and moisture (frost) from forming especially with massive temperature changes externally vs internally The simplest way to prevent this water vapor from entering the space is to prevent air movement [moisture] into the basement by installing a vapor barrier. When properly installed, closed-cell foam (spray or board) acts as a vapor barrier and is the simplest way to prevent this water vapor (and subsequently mold) from entering the space. When properly installed, closed-cell foam (spray or board) acts as a vapor barrier and insulates. If you get a chance please consider checking out this article I wrote on insulating basements. www.aconcordcarpenter.com/basement-insulation-best-practice-to-avoid-mold.html

[@mattv5281]

Spraying the roof deck never made sense to me. Leaks are inevitable.

[@HarmonsHarbor]

This United Kingdom bank loan thing is filled with misinformation. The government was handing out money for quickly, spray, foaming attics. Because of this, they had untrained groups coming in and putting in open cell foam in attics and getting government money for doing it, that open cell foam they used should never have been there because of the UK climate and that there needed to be a ridge venting for open cell…and there wasn’t. The roofs are also built in a way that’s way different from ours. The roofs didn’t necessarily leak, the moisture from the house got absorbed into the OPEN CELL foam and made its way onto the cold side of the roof sheathing, then condensation happened. The migration of moisture from the inside of the house never would have happened if they had used closed cell. The blame should be on the application of the wrong product and onto the wrong type of roof. The blame is not on using the spray foam. It was being used incorrectly without the proper knowledge of building science.

[@Walter-ts1vu]

Thanks so much for the tips. I hope you have a great Christmas. Merry Christmas everyone.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@Walter-ts1vu thank you Walter Merry Christmas to you too

[@fZionists78]

DuPont….knowing that corporations history, I’d consider wearing a hazmat suit. Props on mentioning the airflow and safety gear.

[@PD-we8vf]

I did it with just a China flu mask in an enclosed attic with no ventilation, and it was fine.

[@FA-tq9ip]

Yea full CBRN to be on the safe side... make sure the activated charcoal filters are well in date!...

[@miketerruso5449]

Been using them for a couple years now, great product

[@ConcordCarpenter]

How do you use it?

[@miketerruso5449]

We use is same as you did , as well as other things. when we install new vapor barriers in crawlspaces we will buy a few froth pack and seal the foundation from vapor barber to floor joist and box. Use them in new construction to seal any exterior penetrantions and behind switch and outlet boxes. Works great in bathrooms with exterior walls as well. On another note check out the sika fex post foam, another great product that we use for many things.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@miketerruso5449 Thanks for comment and tip!

[@froth-pak]

We appreciate your support!

[@Walter-ts1vu]

Thanks for sharing brother.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Glad you found it helpful.

[@billk8780]

Rob, Merry Christmas to you & your family from Traverse City. All the best in 2025!

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Thanks - merry Christmas to you too

[@IndependentThinker74]

I have always just caulked all the joints in rim joint bays and then cut faced batts to fit. You can do the whole house for less than $100. I have heard too many stories of houses becoming unlivable from spray foam off gassing after application.

[@ConcordCarpenter]

Faced batt insulation is no longer considered a best practice

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@IndependentThinker74 As a remodeling carpenter, I’ve seen many iterations of basement insulation, and most were wrong!! The wrong way to approach basement insulation is to treat it like an above grade, living space, with 2×4 walls and fiberglass insulation. I’ve seen regular Kraft-Face insulation in walls with a 1-inch gap, as well as 6-mil plastic poly behind fiberglass, against the foundation, as a “vapor barrier.” Both are wrong and will result in mold growth. Fiberglass [insulation] does not support mold growth, but its paper backing does! Fiberglass insulation acts as a filter to catch dust and debris from air leakage into the house. The dirt caught in the fiberglass grows mold. Mold spores need three ingredients in order to grow: -Temperature between 47-120 degrees F. -Food (organic material). -Moisture/Water. [High humidity] Take away one of the ingredients and mold will not grow. In reality, we want warm temperatures and will have organic materials and fabrics in our living space. The mission then is to prevent the moisture string the basement. No moisture no mold! Assuming you don’t have water intrusion from outside, the goal would be to create a thermal insulating vapor barrier. Fiberglass is not a vapor barrier and I’ve never seen the facing on batts installed (in sill joists) to be a effective vapor barrier

[@waldenmathews8059]

How do you dispose of those tanks when youre done?

[@ConcordCarpenter]

@@waldenmathews8059 trash, recycle or refill