Adam Ondra Statics the Dyno! | Beta Break Ep.4

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Video of Adam Ondra practicing coordination: • Adam Ondra #55: Let's ...
Adam Ondra during his performance in the Boulder portion of the 2016 climbing World Championship found himself struggling with a dynamic move. By using some ingenuity and creative thinking he was able to find a way to get through the move without going dynamic.
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[@GeekClimber]

Love this series, man! Insane how Adam Ondra is able to do that move statically!

[@AlbertOkay]

He's such a beast! Seriously on a different level!

[@panda4247]

Insane how the others were able to do those dynos.

[@AntonAdelson]

Because of his reach. This channel, if I'm not mistaken, talks about another climber who uses his reach and height for advantage

[@ewyguewyboy]

i agree its insane how it did it but it wasnt static. he swung his body into position, latched the left and and rotated to right hand into a gaston positon all at once.

[@Max-rt8kz]

@@AntonAdelson so what ?😅

[@tarettime9392]

There's two things I'm going to be annoyed with Olympic climbing. A) most of the problems are going to be dynos and crazy coordination moves that are all done fast and powerfully. B) when someone like Adam breaks that beta and does it statically people are going to think that they're the worse climber for it when the opposite is true

[@AlbertOkay]

Both good points, I have a feeling at the actual Olympics (if it even ends up happening due to the virus) they're going to work really hard on keeping a good balance between everything. Honestly it's always going to be interesting to me what happens to the climbing meta in years to come and see how climbers adapt to it because clearly Adam has adapted to every type of climbing!

[@RosteezHD]

you're not going to be annoyed for another 4 years at least

[@charlesfowler4308]

Don't forget speed being combined with bouldering and lead where imo it really doesn't belong

[@tarettime9392]

@@charlesfowler4308 I mean the furthest hold gets priority. I think if you have 2 people send a problem/route then who ever did it faster was the more efficient climber. Especially if they are consistently faster. I'm not a massive fan of it but what's another non subjective way of breaking that tie?

[@charlesfowler4308]

@@tarettime9392 Sorry I meant the discipline speed climbing rather than using time to time break, I'm fine with that

[@1999colebug]

And this was the first Olympics I was looking forward to :(

[@AlbertOkay]

Olympics are still on schedule for 2020 in Tokyo! Unless you're referring to Adam being a beast at the Olympic games!

[@WyandWombat]

@@AlbertOkay Well, at the current rate of events I'd say forget about the olympics.

[@AlbertOkay]

@@WyandWombat Yeah...I'm so sad about the potential that it could get cancelled. );

[@briseboy]

@@AlbertOkay August 2021 now.

[@darth4arth]

😢

[@kellyrussell1877]

one of my favourite examples of how there's no ideal body type in climbing and every disadvantage comes with a hidden advantage (and vice versa). adam found it easy to reach between the holds where a shorter climber might have struggled, but was too lanky to get his centre of gravity in the right place to make the dyno work. his greater mass helps him generate the momentum needed for this type of move, but as soon as his momentum carried him past the middle hold it stopped being an advantage and started making it nearly impossible for him to hold the swing, so he was flying off to the left. but also, a smaller climber wouldnt have been able to span the gap between the two green holds. one of the reasons adam is such a great climber is that he very quickly recognises when one of the advantages he usually relies on is working against him, and is incredibly creative in figuring out how to turn it back around so its working for him again. his height and mass were making that dyno harder than it was (and it was already pretty hard!), but hes one of only a few people with the wingspan necessary to use both those holds at the same time, and he knows hes better at static moves. intelligent climbing is always more impressive than epic dynos.

[@connorvanvuuren6455]

Hmmm what is the hidden advantage in being an overweight climber?

[@lootic]

@@connorvanvuuren6455 There are two advantages, you get to the ground faster after you get to the top and you are much more suitable to secure someone else.

[@connorvanvuuren6455]

@@lootic lol

[@santi_super_stunts2573]

@@connorvanvuuren6455 once you actually lose weight by climbing , your finger will be used to holding a heavy ass load but now you have a light load. Hangboard training made easy

[@Turnpost2552]

Lose the weight. You always had that option.

[@jasond6053]

I love the fact that you took the scene where tyler01 gets spanked with a paddle for not finishing his burger

[@AlbertOkay]

LOL thanks for knowing the clip :)

[@jasond6053]

@@AlbertOkay (:

[@screew708]

I guess you could call this the tall people beta. Probably down right impossible to do for a lot of his shorter competitors.

[@reidback6508]

the dyno is down-right impossible for someone of his height though. He has way too much momentum going away from the wall

[@Jsoccer1999]

Reid Back not true

[@reidback6508]

@@Jsoccer1999 you're right, the guy that can climb v16, is one of the strongest climbers out there is just too weak for that move

[@Jsoccer1999]

Reid Back i mean yea. There’s plenty of tall gym rat climbers who are beasts that could stick that one armed. You must be new to this. Ondra isn’t any kind of specialist in those moves

[@emilsauberlich7923]

Jack1999 not true

[@ggrimpecom]

I was in Bercy that day and remember clearly having an intuition that this would have happened, the moment i saw the boulder... to see this intuition come true was truly special!!!

[@AlbertOkay]

Heck yes! Man I'm sure you were so excited watching it in person. I wish I was watching it person because I'm sure I would have lost it.

[@J4mesWilliams]

Great series man, your pacing is perfect and I love how you compare against other climbers. I also like how you explain the "paddling" or the "figure 4" before showing the move. It will help people that don't know climbing grasp what's so cool. Keep it up!

[@VjekoV88]

I love your series, hope you do a lot more. I really enjoy the analysis of the beta break, finding what works for you is the best part of climbing, at least for me, because it never gets boring....

[@AlbertOkay]

Finding your own solution is such a beautiful part of climbing! I'm glad you enjoyed the series, more to come in the future!

[@deatrixmuntz]

I love your style of video and pace of commentary. Just found and binged your collection. Looking forward to more. Thank you for the content

[@AlbertOkay]

Thanks! Look out for new content in the future soon!

[@motherlove8366]

Just found out about this awesome series, I love beta breaks, thanks for making it.

[@Wolperdingsda]

Love your content mate! Storytelling, editing and general content of the vids is consistently high - always something new to learn from it and entertaining on itsway. Thank you!

[@AlbertOkay]

Thanks for the support and comment. Keep crushing it!

[@solimarkwok6911]

I just want to say this is an incredible video. I’ve been watching people with 5-10 million subs, Ryan Trahan, vox, etc. this video is so engaging and purely incredible I was stunned. You are a talented creator, keep it up.

[@ducky5945]

I haven't subscribed this quickly to a channel since ever, actually. Love this series that you're doing, and looking forward to your future works!

[@AlbertOkay]

Thank you thankyou! I will most definitely be keeping this series up and releasing other content that hopefully you'll enjoy in the future!

[@BrutelyAwesome]

Keep up this series, it's great and really shows the effort these climbers put in albeit in a different way

[@Benkkuful]

Love your content man! I feel like this channel is about to blow up! So strike while the iron is hot! We need more of these videos :)

[@AlbertOkay]

Thanks Jami! It would be great to blow up, but honestly I truly just enjoy making this content and would still be putting out videos whether I got 10 views or 1 million! Hope you enjoy the future videos!

[@Kle34]

Loving these videos!! Great explanation, comparisons, editing - keep it up!

[@AlbertOkay]

Thanks Laura! I'll definitely keep releasing videos like this in the future so stay tuned!

[@DerToooooo]

Adam Ondra is so impressive! And I love your Beta Break Series, keep 'em coming! 💪

[@AlbertOkay]

Thanks so much, I'll definitely be keeping this series coming and I hope you enjoy them!

[@hyboirds1536]

I always love the big, impressive dyno's and long reaches and jumps... but there is something so amazing and satisfying about seeing someone find a way to do a move where climbers would usually have to jump/dyno, with a static movement. Brains vs brawn in climbing is always fascinating. It really takes a mix of both, and it will never just be one or the other. Sometimes you will need more brain, sometimes you will just need the pure brawn, usually you will need a solid mix of both. It makes for such a dynamic and interesting sport.

[@seppstarthebest]

i always loved to watch puccio vs noguchi or hoyer vs mcoll

[@seppstarthebest]

i always loved to watch puccio vs noguchi or hoyer vs mcoll

[@michaellim4125]

I just watched every single video. So good!

[@AlbertOkay]

Thanks Michael! I'll definitely be releasing more content like this in the future! :)

[@urib6242]

Thank you for these series! Amazing.

[@ghaznavid]

Reminds me of Jacques Kalis in cricket - a top quality player isn't always the most exciting to watch, but will be the most consistent.

[@nilaypatel2965]

Back at it again, sweet video!

[@KletterKellerKind]

your series is great! have you considered to feature alex megos with his insane leg-split resting positions on long routes?

[@AlbertOkay]

100% Yes! I have plans to make a video dedicated on the splits used in climbing! Thanks for watching!

[@scottwangkl8882]

@@quax8923 I immediately pictured that drop knee split in my head when I read your comment. Megos has legendary flexibility

[@maryamtehrani7629]

Just discovered this channel today, subscribed! Cool content 👌🏼

[@infernotyger3717]

Keep this series going man! Awesome stuff

[@AlbertOkay]

I will! Definitely have so many more to make and I'm excited to keep them coming!

[@TiberiousTheLabrador]

Super well put together dude, Awesome videos!

[@AlbertOkay]

Thanks Tibby! Hopefully I'll be able to keep it up and keep bringing content like this!

[@multibaconballs]

Loving this series! such an awesome concept. And great commentary

[@MrCoble-mm7hk]

You just earned a new subscriber. Excellent video!

[@AlbertOkay]

Thanks! Working on new content right now!

[@TSANOOvlogs]

Again, a great video! This series is sick

[@AlbertOkay]

Thanks Tomas! The support and positive comments means allot to me!

[@brakza]

@@AlbertOkay yeah but its going to get cancelled in a week of two. No way it is ethical possible to go for Olympics with Covid-19 still going (which it will)

[@AlbertOkay]

@@brakza Yeah - really sad that it's getting cancelled although the reasons are necessary. );

[@awdrifter3394]

KZbin has been recommending these climbing videos to me, now I'm kinda excited to see what these athletes will do in the Olympics next year. It should be fun to watch. This is like seeing speed runners glitch the game.

[@AlbertOkay]

It's going to be an absolute spectacle to watch the olympics next year. I'm sure climbers are going to pull out some insane moves, I can't wait!

[@drvissierl1404]

Hi! I have nothing to do with climbing other that occasionally trying to climb up a rock for fun. But i’m still hooked on your video’s! Thank you!

[@AlbertOkay]

Thanks so much for watching regardless if you climb or not! Means a lot to me!

[@onlyeveryone2253]

This was on my recommended

[@bellas7541]

Not even 500 Subscribers? I cant believe it. Your videos are amazing!

[@AlbertOkay]

Thanks to you I'm passed 500 now! Thanks so much! :)

[@derailedtrain2517]

he may have been the only one to do it statically because of his reach advantage

[@gileee]

First thing I noticed was that he could eat of the heads of some of the other competitors

[@joaoafonsomendonca9044]

no doubt, but that's also what kept him from getting in a comfortable position to gain power in the start

[@Razagul319]

@@joaoafonsomendonca9044 so these Dyno moves are just short people taking their revenge on taller guys?

[@hanspeters1901]

But even you have the reach you must have the body tension to hold it. And this harder than to yump around.

[@JonHop1]

@@Razagul319 Pretty much.. Dyno is just easier for short/small people because there is less mass to move.. Its really just simple physics, whereas Adam being long and lanky has advantages in other areas due to his height and length.

[@thehoffmanns3823]

love this series keep it coming

[@AlbertOkay]

Thanks allot! I'll keep them coming!

[@isaacs8704]

Please i want more from this series

[@mpgrim3312]

Seems I'm early to the hype your channel will inevitably receive, especially once climbing debuts in the Olympics

[@jacksch0ey]

I have never done rock climbing in my life but for some reason it’s so interesting. Would love to try it.

[@thealienarms]

Give it a shot!

[@TheCinnamondemon]

1:25 manuel cornu and mikael mawem were both in Netflix's Ultimate Beastmaster, an obstacle course game show!!! thats how i got into learning about climbing in the first place. both of them did incredibly as do most of the climbers who go on the show. i never considered that they couldve known each other before the show but makes sense

[@Eseckiels]

I love bouldering with static moves. Just more elegant

[@StefanClimbs]

Awesome beta break!

[@radguyclimbing]

Bro is an absolute beast

[@nnerival6125]

i'm french and after he said "did a beta break that left the commentators speechless" i just heard " Voillaaaaa !! ça c'etait pas bête !!" ( that wasn't stupid) which totally break the emotion in this achievment x)

[@AlbertOkay]

Haha I don't speak french, but thanks for translating it's kind of funny

[@lammy12ninja]

insane skills

[@burnofsky3407]

0:49 I like the tyler1 cameo

[@AlbertOkay]

Hehe put it in there for the gamers

[@mikeynaziri]

Waiting for the Collin Duffy episode. Amazing channel man we need more youtubers like you. YOURE GONNA GO SO FAR MAN KEEP UP THE GREAT CONTENT!!!

[@AlbertOkay]

Oh man it's coming! I actually talked to him right after he won Pan-ams and he is just an insane climber with SO much potential! THANK YOU!!

[@crazypomp927]

It should be noted that height - or perhaps "reach" is the better term here - factors in to why Adam Ondra was able to static that move. If your arms and legs aren't long enough, you're never going to static that move no matter how much you'd like to.

[@hoprockerproductions]

Love this stuff mang!

[@frictitiousclimbing4991]

Digging the content dude!

[@AlbertOkay]

[@fredericp64]

Very nice video thanks!

[@dustinbrown7150]

New to the channel. Loved the vid!

[@AK-rx6hv]

As a tall person doing this static seems not only easy, but seems like the proper technique

[@raimundogrossmarchant4321]

Great series!!

[@FallLineJP]

Great video, that was an awesome beta break! I'd say that it's still a dynamic move. He just made it into a much-better controlled deadpoint motion.

[@mellowman8695]

Great series you should be on your way to 1 million subs in no time with content like this... maybe look at other sports

[@prod_jasper]

bro your content is so good what the hell

[@AlbertOkay]

Thans Jasper! I'll try and keep it up!

[@ignaciocolaneri9486]

I just love how the rapporteurs were speechless

[@Rehase1397]

Others: break the beta by dynoing every static Him: breaking the beta by staticing a dyno

[@winstonpoplin]

Outro song? Also great video! The flow of it was well done.

[@pierocus3261]

You definitely need a subscription for your amazing work

[@AlbertOkay]

Thank you Piero! I cherish every subscriber! Climb hard!

[@wideside05]

Top notch climbing content

[@AlbertOkay]

[@colebingham2734]

Dude what an intro with great music to bust

[@s3rj81]

Much love from Czech :)

[@vojta98]

I really miss those…

[@bazwax77]

I’m always looking for the Dyno! 💪🏻🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🧗🏻‍♂️

[@AlbertOkay]

Me too, but sometimes going static is great too!

[@FreyFahren]

Amazing, thx a lot👍👍👍👍

[@deant6361]

This Adam dude is wicked cool 🌌

[@JustinKoenigSilica]

Come back Albert, i need more Beta Break videos!

[@JackboMack]

in before your channel explodes.. these videos are great.

[@AlbertOkay]

Bless :)

[@JackboMack]

Albert Ok I think you were about 900 subs when I commented.

[@AlbertOkay]

@@JackboMack AY THANKS FOR BEING ONE OF THE EARLY SUBSCRIBERS

[@heart.9889]

He is also way taller than some of the others, smart to use it as an advantage

[@nathanlin6798]

You deserve way more subscriber then you have

[@davidsimpson3885]

I always try to do a static Version of a dyno first which does work quite alot, then go back to do it as intended after just to work on my dynamic abilities which are alright, but far from perfect.

[@thorstenreitz7302]

@albert Ok which is the song you're using in these videos? I really like the chill of it and would have loved to listen to it when I bouldered a bit last Sunday :).

[@AlbertOkay]

Yoyo! I put the songs at the end screen of the video, on my phone now -otherwise I'd link it for you! :)

[@thorstenreitz7302]

@@AlbertOkay Awesome, thanks - somehow I missed that :). The song I meant is this one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qnfFqJWAo7hjppI

[@ohboy1113]

I like the aesthetic of static moves more personally.

[@gregglockhart9551]

Awesome!

[@jonnes__4657]

🐱‍👤 Tomoa the gymnastics flyer and Adam the best... great stuff! .

[@AlbertOkay]

Such a great difference in styles. So great to watch!

[@arina9153]

*Correction* 3:25: a *gaston* is when ur *elbows* are pointing away from ur body, like when ur opening a bag of chips, Ondra did a sidepull

[@TheCubicat]

0:49 Tyler1 paddle beta break

[@benkim996]

wait can you tell me the competition where the guy celebrated but fell of the last hold? and name of person. thanks

[@JorgePacker]

I like your videos! Please do a video about Janja!! There must be a lot to talk about her 👏

[@AlbertOkay]

Heck yes! I have been already researching about her...I have so much to talk about her!

[@JorgePacker]

@@AlbertOkay maybe this could be a longer one 😉

[@AlbertOkay]

@@JorgePacker Yes!

[@stobe187]

I know fuck all about climbing and even I know that Ondra is a beast

[@memesicd1490]

i wanna be like him one day hes my idolo

[@Fabler]

Even outside of a comp. All that matters is that you send

[@isaacinternet]

Seems like he just had a big enough wingspan to do it that way...

[@taggerung_]

@Darren Harper why does it have to be an embarassment if you cant do something exactly the same way other people do...

[@zeitvergessen2709]

Where's that kneepad Video? :D Oh BTW really nice series!

[@enderlain385]

Tall with great wingspan too. This is why most dynos now involve greater distance

[@KT78387]

I'm a tree climber trimmer for power company, so this is fun to watch for me. What is the difference between static and dynamic moves? I sense it is all out jump vs. Hold to hold without losing contact?

[@dabossman5650]

Yea exactly

[@KT78387]

@@dabossman5650thanks. ill try to bring the language out to my field then get it catching on lol.

[@jamesblace5761]

There should be a second world championship on dynamic climbing..

[@nanitexz]

Subbed!

[@AlbertOkay]

[@ryangrassman9183]

I climbed with u at liposuction today then randomly got suggested ur vid

[@od1401]

I'm not a climber at all but unlike a lot of sports like athletics Indonesia see the Olympics as the pinnacle of climbing. Just like it isn't the pinnacle of football, the world cup or champions's league is. The pinnacle of climbing, from my totally amateur KZbin viewing point of view, is who can do the hardest routes out in the open. Like Adam doing the first 9c in the world.

[@woopidoo]

did you really just put a part of the tyler1xfaker visits heart attack grill in your video? love it haha

[@AlbertOkay]

GOTCHU FAM

[@woopidoo]

@@AlbertOkay ㅋㅋㅋ 개꿀잼

[@SuperMortiki]

I found your channel after subscribing to a few rock climbing videos and it came up as a suggestion. I am unclear on why you don't have a higher subscribe rate I'm sure it's just a matter of time because your video and your explanations are amazing congrats on your future success!

[@Puretide]

Whats the music he uses?

[@PKG10]

Heckin' Adam

[@andreaskrause]

this like is for adam

[@luismisanmartin98]

Anyone have a link to the "Cosmic Giraffes" POB song? I cannot find it!

[@luismisanmartin98]

Got it! soundcloud.com/user-119836951/cosmic-giraffes

[@PenguinPaws]

I recognize that loltyler1 clip

[@AlbertOkay]

;)

[@advikdeshmukh805]

0:50 TYLER1???