Adam Savage's One Day Builds: 3D Print UV Curing Oven!

As Adam becomes more familiar with the post-processing workflow for his new Formlabs 3L 3D printer, he goes through the rite of passage for SLA 3D printer owners: building his own UV curing oven for finishing his resin print parts. It's a straightforward build that can be adapted for any size, and Adam goes big to make a parts curing station that can hold all the prints that come off of the Form 3L's large build plate! Follow along to make your own with the components list below!
Electric Turntable: amzn.to/3tWcFGE
UV LED Lights: amzn.to/3rtofqY
Mylar Blanket: amzn.to/3lXLQ23
Super77 Glue Spray: amzn.to/3lXM4pV
UV Flashlight: amzn.to/3w6NUt0
Build guide: • How to Build an SLA 3D...
Shot by Adam Savage and edited by Norman Chan
Disclosure: The 3D printer was provided by the manufacturer for purposes of review. Learn more about Formlabs SLA printers here: formlabs.com/
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Kishore Hari / sciencequiche
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Kristen Lomasney / krystynlo
Intro bumper by Abe Dieckman
Thanks for watching!
#AdamSavage #OneDayBuilds #3DPrinting

[@tested]

Electric Turntable: amzn.to/3tWcFGE UV LED Lights: amzn.to/3rtofqY Mylar Blanket: amzn.to/3lXLQ23 Super77 Glue Spray: amzn.to/3lXM4pV UV Flashlight: amzn.to/3w6NUt0 Build guide: kzbin.info/www/bejne/m6WvgH-LpNyphqs

[@HighPeakVideo]

*UV EYE DAMAGE* - as a precaution it is best not to have the UV LEDs on during assembly, and to wear protection for any significant exposure. Some things you can risk, but not your eyes. Commented with respect as an immense fan of everything you do Adam!

[@erikiacopelli451]

PLEASE PRINT A HUGE RANCOR SKULL!!! Of course itll have to be in pieces that u will have to put together. But it would be so cool to see as ur first huge print build. If u do please let us all know as I would love to see it. Or if not a rancor then some large monster skull...maybe a xenomorph?!

[@wombatillo]

AFAIK the Formlabs resins are designed to be cured with 405 nm light so your choice of leds seems spot on.

[@Thedudemanlistening]

Where can we get that awesome mixtape for our own party?

[@nandmaas3675]

When seeing this i hoped for an oven with uv light as we discovered that the prints from the Formlabs 3L with the standard grey resin is not curing in uv only. At formlabs they are developing an oven with 80 degrees Celsius max. So to let the prints harden it is needed to heat it to 60 degrees Celsius and UV light as well. Had our first print spinning for 3 hours in a anycubic curing station at 405 nm but it is still sticky to the touch.

[@MarkWarbington]

You need to find a tiny disco mirror ball to hang from the ceiling and a little MP3 player to pump in some dance loops whenever the device is on.

[@cdyoutoob]

Nice idea. Maybe play just when the door is open. A random 5-10 second .wav disco loop? Prefixed with random intro statements from Dodgy-Euro-Adam ?

[@whome6764]

Or build one🤔

[@johnsmithe4656]

Would be fun if the music continues when you shut the door, but much more muffled than before.

[@P1psk1nt1nkl3]

was about to suggest that, but you beat me to it! (if I ever get my 3d resin printer, I'm so gonna add a disco ball to my curing station)

[@marksnyder2232]

If you hinge a pair of the doors on a hexagon, you can level-lift and remove the entire rotary table top. This might be handy for transferring stuff in and out. Depending on cycle times, you could also make a second rotary table top so you could prep one while the other is baking.

[@prolific9002]

Good point. Removable turntable surface horizontally

[@AgentWaltonSimons]

"The first thing I'm going to make is a pair of hexagons" - because they are the bestagons.

[@PamdaDev]

CGP is a wise man

[@Naf623]

People who like this comment are absolutely my people 😋

[@Praxis4RageBaiting]

@@PamdaDev or vihart?

[@regmigrant]

Came looking for this and was not disappointed

[@Sawmule1]

Was watching this on my tv and came to comment this exact same thing! Glad to see cgpgreyian beat me to it!

[@ArsonIndustries]

I built one but used a junk microwave. Had the turntable and timer built in, just had to pull out the magnetron and coil and stick in the led cob and power supply. Since the power supply uses line voltage you can put it directly in place of the coil for the magnetron so the microwave still keeps all the functions! Best thing ever is defrost mode for sensitive resins, it pulses the light on and off

[@travismiller5548]

Built in ventilation, built in UV protection, internal reflectivity, easy to clean glass turntable... Old microwaves are the best.

[@joeniedbala]

Technique Tip: When cutting something in a sheet that is fragile like the mylar, it often helps to cut from the center out, as the natural tension of the material will help with both cutting and preventing tearing and fraying.

[@FerociousPancake888]

Very glad you still make videos. You made my childhood. Other kids were watching MTV but I watched mythbusters. It paid off.

[@zemerick]

Small tips Adam: If you use a clear base, then light can get to the underside of your prints. Otherwise you need to flip them and cure again. It's a really good idea to add a clear container that you can fill with water. Water curing dramatically improves curing. When orienting your prints, don't leave flat surfaces even with the plate. This causes all sorts of problems, including warping and pimpling around supports. Proper orientation will also help your success rates a lot. It's usually a good idea to remove the supports before curing. They are much softer then, so will come off much easier and cleaner. When you remove the supports, you also want them warm or even hot. I use a heated ultrasonic cleaner ( with all-purpose cleaner, not a flammable alcohol, though there's a way around that issue. ), set to 50c, and remove supports as soon as I pull them out of there. They come off soooo much easier and better.

[@alfonshomac]

Not long ago I was too sick to get out of bed for a bit and I binged on these builds. At points I didn't watch but just... It felt like we kept each other company.

[@Analogcolor]

So happy there is a converging of my 3D Printing hobby / small business and my newly refound hero (loved mythbusters) through the pandemic. Watching your youtube from the beginning of the pandemic helped me fill a rough period of time with creativity and build a workspace and small business in the meantime. Still struggling to be ok, but it's coming along

[@holoemiter]

I like how Adam states that are right a passage to Resin printers is a curing chamber, then proceeds to make one himself. Most of us would have just bought one. This is why Adam is so awesome!

[@FectacularSpail]

I didn't even realize this was a thing for SLA printers. For FDM printer people like myself, the rite of passage is printing upgrades for your printer. lol

[@fourdoorsmorehoes]

@@FectacularSpail in fact, you also need a washing station, which comes after the print and before the curing

[@juanantonioherrerogago1615]

@@fourdoorsmorehoes mi ln L mnnñlk.

[@JohnVanderbeck]

Actually a lot of people make their own. I bought one as well though because I have more money than talent :)

[@Epinardscaramel]

I'm having flashbacks to the build with Matt Parker 😍

[@RandiRain]

I built a turntable once. To get it perfect, I anchored a router upside down for cutting, put a blank piece of wood on the motor device, and turned it on. As it spun, the router cut a perfect circle in relation to the turntable.

[@dwee44]

This feels so relaxing, Adam you're the Bob Rossof the makers world

[@josemartin4431]

Nice. I second the disco ball, and also make a small latch for the door that resembles a red velvet rope, so that every time you open the door, you are "allowed" into Club UV!

[@brandonyoung-kemkes1128]

Loved the little disco at the end.

[@TSKseattle]

But I'm old - as soon as he said Disco, I was thinking more like Donna Summers

[@1la5]

Man i love the regular uploads from you Adam since the covid came. You have become such a big part of my daily routine that my girlfriend now tells me to go watch a new or old video from you when om in a bad mood or just bored. One my bigest dream is to meet you and just thank you for the time you spend filming in the cave.

[@leonhostnik9516]

Watching Adam say he's going to make something, and then doing it, is always surprising to me, who grew up with a dad who would say he would want to do a project, and then never get to it.

[@LukeSeeleygamertagisV3XChintzy]

This is deep

[@gibbontakeit9098]

Hope your dad doesn't see this, you'll break his heart.

[@OneofInfinity.]

Mine never pretended to want to do anything with me and mainly that is why I have never broken a promise to my own children, I know how disappointing it would feel from their perspective.

[@StuartMaginnis]

The trip to the night club was brilliant. 😄

[@Wraithofvolsunga]

Hey Adam, in your opening shot, it looks like the printer is stored next to a window. If there is any natural light nearby, it drastically affects the function of the printer and can lead to more failed prints and maintenance down the road. Additionally as a safety feature, you should probably have some UV-proof goggles when looking into an unshielded chamber (even if your glasses are UV resistant, the LEDs put out a lot more than sunlight does). The LEDs are significantly brighter than they look and can damage retinas with invisible light.

[@zemerick]

The printers come with UV shielding to block external light. Though, if it does have direct sunlight on it, that can cause issues when you open it. So, yes, it's definitely a good best practice to keep away from ANY UV source. ( Especially for Adam this would also mean keeping it away from any welding. ) The light used in these printers isn't really UV. It's 405nm which falls under visible light, and even long wavelength UV A ( like 385-400nm ) is quite safe.

[@countzero1136]

@@zemerick This is correct - While it's never a good idea to look directly at any bright light source, the 405nm (aka "near-UV" ) is generally considered safe and nowhere near as much UV output as you'd get outdoors even on a relatively overcast day. While safety is always of paramount importance, there is a huge amount of bad information on the internet about these things and it should be noted that the curing process for resin prints is very safe (safer in fact than handling the actual resin, though even that is nowhere near as hazardous as many people online would have us believe) In short, always be safe, but there's no real need for people to get paranoid about this stuff :) Now if you'll excuse me, I have to go and replace the FEP on the resin tank of my Elegoo Mars :)

[@ebrix9]

Yeah man, It's great that you found a way to avoid troubleshooting your electronics failures by keeping the LEDs on all the way through the process, but UV light is really bad on your eyes. Especially if you work inside a highly reflective box, which will reverberate those photons a lot.

[@monsterclosetcom]

Great design! Ditto to the need for eye protection with UV. I made my UV curing box with foam core, and aluminum foil as the reflexive coat. Has worked great. Cheap and light weight. It even has a UV shielding window to see the models inside while they cure.

[@monsterclosetcom]

Here’s a link to my Instagram if anyone is curious to see it instagram.com/p/CIkBHFLjb0A/?igshid=1xyrkm9hwomcx

[@WIImotionmasher]

I can tell when Adam's in a good mood because he tries to be funny It's adorable

[@nathanmartin6002]

Adam is one guy I would like to hang with, because he is just a good person and very funny lol

[@ChrisEllorris]

Don't think we didn't all see that Amban rifle in pieces there! Tip for you, Adam, it's a lot easier to remove supports from your 3D prints before the parts have been fully cured than afterwards. :)

[@misery13666]

Oh there are at least a few of us that immediately knew what is upcoming

[@radishdalek]

I use a fdm printer and just recently switched to PVB as filament. Just submerge it in 70% IPA for 30 mins and it comes out perfectly smooth. Currently experimenting with 90% IPA for submerging time and to just to spray it on with a spray bottle.

[@dorsk84]

Why would I put a print in an India Pale Ale? 😄

[@bengillday1415]

Im printing parts for my own enclosure and adam pops up i haven't watched this guy in years i love his videos

[@eduardotorrealba4237]

Designinging a UV cure oven was one of several engineering challenges we used to give prospective mechanical engineering hires at Formlabs when I ran an engineering team there from 2014-2018. Adam’s design and build would have easily cleared the bar to make it to the next stage of the interview! Can’t wait to see what he does next for this series.

[@TheTrueTek]

This is the most relatable video yet! I just built myself a UV curing cabinet a few weeks ago, although I used an IKEA cabinet instead of building it myself. Keep up the great videos Adam & Tested! Can't wait to see the projects that are enhanced with your new printer!

[@wpribble]

Wonderful build. Maybe use a small squeegee to smooth Mylar. And the door needs a handle and locking mechanism to secure it closed

[@superslammer]

Yeah its always one tiny little detail like that that I am always feeling is left off :D He'll probably add it later.

[@erinmcgrathejm4985]

Or a brayer.

[@zemerick]

For more aesthetic purposes indeed. As he said though, it doesn't matter here as it was a functional build.

[@superslammer]

Oh he needs to add a thing to roll up that 500ft power cable on ;)

[@Sembazuru]

I was thinking about something to hold the door closed. A simple hasp would probably work well to both hold the door closed and something to grab to pull the door open.

[@nobodyuknow4911]

I made my UV curing chamber out of a large stainless steel stock-pot I got for I ~think~ $20 or so (they are surprisingly cheap, and especially so if you get one second-hand from goodwill or other thrift stores). Lined it with a $20 UV light strip kit from Amazon, and a handy solar-powered turntable (also on Amazon for less than $10) so for about $50 total I have a UV curing chamber that is neigh indestructible, extremely reflective surface without hassle, aluminum foil or mylar, the convenience of handles and can move/store it under my printing table/desk. Best of all, if any resin or anything gets on the surface of it, I can easily chip it right off, and if the lights or solar turn table ever crap out they are cheap to replace as well.

[@dorsk84]

That's some strait up RedGreen/MacGyver stuff right there. I lIKE IT

[@NewbombedTurk]

I did basically the same thing, but used an IKEA LIXHULT storage cabinet

[@dolphin64575]

Is the solar powered turntable powered by the LED strips?

[@nobodyuknow4911]

@@dolphin64575 yup, works perfectly

[@travismiller5548]

Food service suppliers (Hockenbergs is one national chain) has super affordable stainless steel vessels in any size or shape you could want. I got a pot the size of a 5 gallon bucket for $14, to replace a rotted out galvanized steel bucket.

[@HowIDoThingsDIY]

Please never stop making stuff. I could watch you build a box and somehow its interesting and comforting. Thank you.

[@nickallain]

Improvement tip: raise the turntable a bit and make it out of a UV clear plastic. That way, the bottoms get cured as well. I'm sure Adam will soon learn that the supports come up easier if you cure after removing them :)

[@JohnVanderbeck]

Yeah was wondering how the bottom was supposed to cure well here. I guess some reflection will get up, but my store bought cure station has UV lights shining up from the bottom as well.

[@Lugdruud]

oh boy.. starting with formlabs is like if your first car was buggati :D so jealous.. in comparsion my first car was VW beetle (anycubic photon) ... Welcome to the 3D printing community Adam! msla was really gamechanger for me (painting miniatures)

[@danz107]

14:00 the other people where I work could learn a thing from you. I feel like I'm the only one who puts tools away when I'm finished. You're so organized! Considering how much is going on in your shop. Like another person said, if you don't have a pair of UV glasses, they'd be very beneficial. We use them at work for protection when printing on plastics.

[@jyoungbr549]

I built a UV curing oven out of a Home Depot 5 Gallon bucket. Lined the interior with aluminum reflective wide duct tape added 2 layers of plexi to the bottom with the bottom most layer covered in reflective tape and the top most layer I kept clear to protect the LEDs that I lined the bottom with and also to allow the UV light to penetrate the bottom of the part as well. I also lined the sides with UV LEDs all the way around. Then I added the same two layers of plexi to the lid and connected all of the LEDs together powered by a 12v 10amp PSU. I have no turntable since the UV LEDs are completely surrounding any part I insert into it. Has worked out really well so far. I think I have about 375 UV LEDs total.

[@ToddTevlin]

When dealing with any UV light, you really should be wearing eye protection while it's on when you're building with it. That crap will fry out your eyes, seriously.

[@patprop74]

I fully agree, I been messing around with Uv lights since I made my first resin printer with a DLP projector a long time ago, I am now reduced to wearing glasses and I am positive UV light has something to do with it, I was not every carful about it.

[@chloestrainge7426]

I once worked at a company that used UV curing in it's products. One of the things they said is that your eyes won't even feel sore even though they're getting damaged. UV lights are no joke.

[@patprop74]

@@chloestrainge7426 sorry could you voice message your comment, I'm no longer able to see what I read hahah JK, you are right though, it took a few years for the full effect of UV light exposer to be felt. maybe getting old also had something to do with it also lol

[@popltree2]

This is also why most commercially available curing station of a UV filtering hood/door panel on them.

[@blacknoir2404]

depends of the wavelength but yeah I don't know what wavelength this is

[@willferguson626]

I made a quick a dirty curing box myself. I used a solar powered turntable (the UV light powers the turntable) and a bulb from a bug zapper that gave of the proper frequency of UV to cure my prints. Cost me under $40 to build and works great for my small prints.

[@oneeGrimm]

Neat! You can also easily do retro-bright of yellowed plastic in there. Just use some transparent plastic container, fill it with mixture of water and hydrogen peroxide, dump in your old yellowed plastic stuff (clean and fully submerged in the mix) and leave it overnight.

[@kayakguide]

an idea to secure the rotating table is using neodymium magnets so it can be easily removed.

[@MichaelMakesEverything]

Lift up your prints on a small acrylic riser that way the UV light will bounce underneath and cure the bottom of the print. They are also far less likely to stick to the acrylic than the mylar.

[@suijin25]

I just lined one of those hilariously large bulk store coffee cans with uv light stripes. Adam with the flex here.

[@darksunrise957]

Hey, if it works, it works. He could have built it out of stainless steel, with hand-cut mirrors and a circuit to turn the UV light off when he opened it, but he built it out of plywood and nails. If it does the job, then that's good enough.

[@RFC-3514]

@@darksunrise957 "The job" isn't binary. There are several problems with his design, which I'm sure he'll find out and eventually fix or improve in "version 2.0".

[@fwiffo]

The hot stuff in 3D printing right now is the Voron. I'm building a V0. It's right up your alley.

[@kendokaaa]

Considering how long it took Adam to get a 3D printer at all (and it's supplied for review by Formlabs), I don't see him dabbling in FDM much

[@danielprows6416]

A couple tips from someone that's been resin printing for a few years. The supports leave less marks if you remove them After you do your post print washing, but Before you do your post print curing. It just makes it so you don't have to do quite as much sanding of your print if you want it to be perfect. Resin cures faster in the absence of air. So if you do your post print cure in some water, it goes faster. This isn't going to matter when you're in the Form ecosystem since they control your resin. But if you're using something like a Photon, Elegoo Mars, Epax x1, etc. Then it can make a huge difference

[@logicalparadox8954]

been messing with resin printing for a little over 3 years on and off, they are outstanding machines that can do things that still blow my mind. recently picked up an Elegoo Mars 2 since my Photon was giving me no end of trouble. Adam, if you read these comments check out Elegoo's water washable resin. prints like a dream and cleans up with just water.

[@GadgetAddict]

How do we get into your club? Those beats are bangers!

[@indeed8211]

lol unless you want to come out looking like a roast chicken you would NOT want that you're thinking of black lights

[@arichard]

@@indeed8211 lol *woosh*

[@BertyBertsson]

@@arichard Indeed.

[@cathalbrady8259]

Did anyone else notice that the parts on the turn table at the end is parts for a mandolorian sniper. Future one day build 👀

[@Drundel]

We use UV cure as a top/clear coat when making lures. Its super hard and sets up much quicker than 2 part epoxy (that 5 min stuff is junk). You can also mix in glow powder. You can get microwave turntable motors for cheap and they make a great slow turning motor and for your light, look on Amazon, tons of 20W lights that will cure that stuff in no time. Cool project.

[@AlexanderSchwaninger]

I would recommend to add a timer, learned that the hard way as I forgot prints and accidentally overvured them. Also maybe a layer of acrylic on the base in case some liquid resin is hidden somewhere it's much easier to remove it from acrylic rather than mylar.

[@travismiller5548]

Two more reasons an old microwave is the way to go

[@slartimus]

As he finished nailing the hexagon together, I was just waiting for him to try putting the turntable platform inside only to discover that the opening was too small so he'd have to remove a panel or two. Possibly the most amazing moment of the build for me was when no, he was able pop the platform right in there, no problems. Nicely done.

[@AdamNDJ]

When I'm laying out thin sheets of stuff, like window tinting, or vinyl, or Mylar on stuff. I use a thin piece of acrylic sheet with some felt glued to it to help smooth it out and get rid of the wrinkles and air bubble. Works a treat and is easy to make.

[@ReverendTed]

I know that those are parts for the Mandalorian's Amban rifle, but with the supports it looks for all the world like a scale model of a refinery or cyberpunk city.

[@misery13666]

it absolutely is that rifle. Glad I'm not the only one to see it

[@janbiedermann1398]

at 22:50 Adam detects a major oversight in his assembly and is so damn cool about it.... "aah, that works good enough"..... great!!

[@cdyoutoob]

Upgrade ideas: - Turning UV off when door is open (and turning on a standard light). - Cooling chimney, vents, fan. - If people wish to add a transparent floor make sure the material passes UV light sufficient that curing still occurs by testing first. Glasses and plastics that pass UV-A may reduce it by as much 50%, but obviously some bottom curing may be better than none. Other transparent materials might block the passage of UV completely and degrade over time from the UV exposed side.

[@travismiller5548]

All benefits to be had buy using an old microwave instead of building a thing from scratch

[@aloharover5980]

I have always removed the supports before doing the UV cure. I found that I got more chips when trying to removed the supports from fully cured models. I also have found best results when curing for only 60 seconds. Longer than that and I get super brittle models. I would set up a timer for the UV lights

[@palidansghost]

made one for my printer before seeing this video using aluminum foil and and a card board box. this video gives me guidance on upgrade paths

[@elijahmoore9414]

This is the first one day build I've watched since listening to Every Tool's a Hammer. It really opened my eyes to the process and I'm excited to pursue my own projects with this new found perspective!

[@Joe___R]

If you use a couple pieces of velcro to secure the platform to the turntable it will be much more stable when you are curing an object that has uneven weight distribution. This fix will still allow the platform to be removed easily but also be stable.

[@digitaIgorilla]

Loved the trip to Club Savage.

[@chronokoks]

Aluminium coated mylar is a good option. It reflects most of the UV light in that range - stainless-steel for example actually absorbs a significant portion of the UV light.

[@komakon]

That's a tanning booth! lol so awesome, nice work! love your videos ever since I was a kid :) ty for all you do.

[@rallymodeller]

Adam, if you read the comments here, please do something about the strings hanging from your hoodie. One of the first lessons we learned around machinery to wear nothing that can get snagged in moving parts -- no ties, no hoodie strings, no jewelry. Work smart, work safe!

[@claytonaudiopro]

If you setup the FDM properly there is usually no post processing for engineering type parts and stuff. Models might needs some. It all depends on the print quality you choose. Welcome to the club Adam 3D printers are awesome.

[@timandshannon03]

Love the Serenity in the background!!!!

[@MrFaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa]

Once you get the printer going you can print a little box to go over the AC wiring bit so the loose wires dont get caught and yanked out

[@LeoH3L1]

Building something similar to this at the moment, it's square section not hex, but opens on two sides, so corner hinged, it also will have an arduino running it, so will have a timer, start/pause/stop function, and turn off the UV if it detects the doors open, and if I can, remote app control/status.

[@Sharpevil]

Formlabs printers are great for industrial use and have a price tag to match, but if you want to do some resin 3d printing at home, don't feel like it's out of your reach! Excellent, user-friendly, high-detail resin 3d printers can be bought for as low as $210 nowadays! I'd recommend finding an MSLA printer with a monochrome screen such as the Elegoo Mars 2, Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k, or the Anycubic Photon Mono for your first machine.

[@shubinternet]

Which I think is part of the reason why Norm has reviewed other SLA printers, including Elegoo units.

[@ThaStrake]

*Unce, unce, unce.* "Welcome to the Eurodanceclub, alles is seh schön and gut!" *Continues dancing.* Thanks for the vid Adam. :)

[@neilperry2224]

Whilst watching the 'MYLAR' tape partition, it reminded me of the 'armageddon' ideas bashing part. Where they come up with; We fire satellites at the meteor and in a hyperactive burst 'we launch huge mylar panels that catch the solar winds...... Or words that effect as I can't find that part of the script. And Billy Bob shouts back,' find me someone who's had a little less caffeine this morning 'lol

[@emmanouildrosopoulos7894]

its amazing when your plans comes tokether and clear and fixed all thats amazing work. Try add 1 small pc fann to put out the air from inside

[@Calumetto]

Dude -- you need to put the playback speed at 2X and go to timestamp 29.00, where you do your "disco" sounds. Absolutely hilarious!!! ••• Loved the video. Thanks! (-:

[@G3ML1NGZ]

In case no one has mentioned it already. it's better to remove the supports before curing. Even better if you soften them in warm water first, makes them come off super easy

[@hydra1668]

It's jank, and I love it. I'm trying to become an engineer and i hope i end up half as good as Adam.

[@ComradeDerds]

I recently got into resin printing and had blowout on hollowed prints. I grabbed some fiberoptic cord and made a plug to me uv flashlight to snake it inside the small hollowed parts.

[@wheelycrafty]

I used a lockable square metal cabinet from Ikea with mirrors on every interior surface, darn that thing is heavy. Seeing you use mylar made me order some chrome vinyl wrap to replace the mirrors, and possibly make a new one that is larger as looking at getting a larger format resin printer this year.

[@lukes1978]

Possible quick improvements: a rack to lift up the prints an inch or so (so the bottom gets cured) and a magnet to keep the door closed

[@MagStarcraft]

Hey Adam, water washable resin has been a game-changer for me. I highly recommend that over the traditional kind so much easier and safer.

[@johngriffin5446]

i dont know if its safer but it is easier

[@Bigrignohio]

Just looked up the printer. I love the webpage title "Form 3L: The First Affordable Large SLA 3D Printer". Only $11,000! I think some people's definition of "affordable" is different than mine :)

[@FullStackFool]

The poster in the first shot hits me right in the feels...

[@GTRichardson7]

you should replace the door with a one way mirror so you can maintain reflectivity, but also can easily see in to the pieces as they cure.

[@Ga77]

that is a mandalorian Rifle !! cool stuff comming!!!

[@SchwettyBawls]

Removing the supports Before curing is a lot easier and reduces the difficulty of cleanup later on.

[@3DJapan]

Nice! I built one out of an empty paint can lined with foil tape and LED strip. I've used it for months and finally got around to ordering a solar powered turntable for it yesterday.

[@TheJonesKey]

Hey Adam, here's an idea for a one day build: Reupholstery your shop stool! 1:58

[@Noeland]

It’s about freaking time you got into 3D printing!

[@l.alexander4616]

I love the firefly poster!!

[@asicdathens]

My first curing chamber was a bucket (There were some bottles included) from a corporate gift that was shiny enough inside. I had a spiral of uv leds and worked flawlessly. Next one was Anycubic wash and cure

[@stagger9660]

Glad you got your hands on a 3d printer adam. You deserve it.

[@twilightknight123]

I'm assuming the reflectivity in the oven is meant for more even illumination and to reduce heating from absorption in the walls, right? If that's the case, a specularly reflective surface like the mylar isn't the best option. If you want an even illumination, you want a diffuse reflector like in an integrating sphere. Something like titanium dioxide would work well for this. They both result in high reflection from the walls, but the titanium dioxide will spread the light out after reflection while the mylar will cause "filamentation" of the UV light.

[@dragonis003]

Adam: builds elaborate and precise turn table uv light box Other makers: buys $10 uv nail polish light online and mounts it to the box it shipped in silver duct tape

[@PendragonDaGreat]

I mean I made mine out of a 5 gallon bucket from The Lowe's Depot, but yeah, pretty much.

[@alexhead808]

Yes, Brother. We do. but after seeing this, it will be mylar blanket lined amazon box

[@OhHeyTrevorFlowers]

Good timing! I'm building a UV curing station today. Thanks for the vid, Tested Team.

[@zemerick]

Make sure to build it bigger than you think. You never know when you'll want to upgrade your printer to a larger one. Plus, it's a good idea to be able to fit a container of water in there which you can submerge the prints in. This dramatically improves curing. ( Note: Obviously not the case for water washable resins, and yet another reason not to use those. )

[@mickeyfilmer5551]

Add a couple of neodymium magnets for a simple closure system.

[@chrisjoyner3376]

My first "UV oven" was a plastic bucket lined with foil and a UV lamp set on top.

[@SirRawThunderMan]

Din Djarin Blaster Rifle One Day Build coming soon, then?

[@hhhhhhhhhhhhhnhhhhhhh]

I can make The Rocktopus en masse even in the middle of a storm now, thank you.

[@josephulbrich7523]

Always remove the supports before curing... They are so much easier to remove and won't damage your part as much.

[@blueckaym]

Congrats for joining the 3d printing world! It looks great and I'm sure it works fine ... as there isn't much to uv curing really. Mirror-life surfaces cover most design mistakes. But I'm also surprised about some design mistakes that Adam did. I'm not surprised when other do them (I've seen some of them many times), but I expected better by Adam :) The first thing is most people put the uv led strips horizontally, which creates horizontal lines of much higher intensity since the turntables also rotate in a horizontal plane. I would try to distribute them better in the full height of the box (and least around the height of the models). As I said the reflective surfaces cover that mistake as uv will bounce around a bit and still will hit the models from most sides. The 2nd flaw is about the turntable. I've seen many people making its plate reflective too, which is fine for bouncing downward UV rays back up, so they hit the sides of the models. But the one surface that is in total darkness is the bottom of each figure (at least if it's laying flat). It's much better to have reflective floor of the box, and then glass rotating plate so that UV rays can bounce from the floor (around the turntable itself. so it's better if it's smaller but with wider glass plate) pass thru the glass (so don't use plastic plate as it stops UV too well) and hit the bottom of the models. Also as some mentioned in the comments it would be more convenient to have two walls open as doors, as it'll give access to the full width of the box, while keeping plenty of structural integrity (with the other 4 walls). As I said these flaws aren't critical. Prints will still get cured (especially if not put flat on the plate). Also nobody can even say with some certainty how long should models be cured. Nobody can even say what's the idea time to cure prints, given specific UV light intensity for example. But it seems overengineered and subpar at the same time :/

[@Michael-dt7sd]

Your quick and dirty build seems pretty well thought out and implemented this time. I believe that quick and dirty for something like this is getting a plastic bin and some aluminum from the local department store, lining the bin with foil, throwing in some UV LEDs and calling it done.

[@noblerich6353]

Love to see those Amban rifle parts spinning in the oven... hopefully a future video???

[@Naf623]

I used my FDM printer (Ender 5) to print mine. It's a semi-regular hexadecagonal prism in my case, for reasons which turned out to be completely wrong, but it works anyway.