Annual maintenance and rust concerns on a Tesla Model 3

[@adamdport]

Here's a list of affiliate links to the parts I used in this video: Ceramic Brake Pads: amzn.to/3WBBGbQ Brake Lube: amzn.to/3UVLfkF Brake Parts Cleaner: amzn.to/3wjhyAB Fluid Film: amzn.to/3K1edch Iron Remover: amzn.to/3UCrSeL Dielectric Grease: amzn.to/3JVfXnr Push Pin Pliers: amzn.to/3JWa61c Hand Cleaning Wipes: amzn.to/4bx8mYg Battery Terminal Brush: amzn.to/3QzVzw8 And big thanks to Peter at EvPartsGuy.com for hooking me up with the fenders! Feel free to give him a call if you need any new or used parts and tell him I said hi!

[@Mr21December2012]

What car jack do you use?

[@rainerzufall9587]

those ceramic Pads will kill your Rotor (Rust streaks). Had ATE Ceramic on my BMW (ICE). I also assume that the Tesla pads are already “ceramic” anyway (low dust).

[@mememaster147]

It's common for cars with electric parking brakes to require a scan tool to activate the caliper retraction function. On cars with a manual integrated parking brake, you have to rewind the caliper with a tool that engages something on the face of the caliper to turn it. You literally screw the piston into the caliper. I suspect that your Model 3 requires a rewind tool as there's a couple of divots in the piston face that a tool could engage to turn it.

[@fredhamilton1701]

To answer your question: I just want more videos - long or short. You’re an incredibly clear, concise, and informative teacher. At this point I’ll watch anything you post, no matter the length. Someone suggested you do a video on clearing out the incredible amount of junk that collects between your condenser and radiator. A friend and I did our cars and it was quite challenging and I don’t think we did as thorough a job as we could have. I’d love to see a video on that. Thanks so much for these videos, Adam!

[@ripvanstinkle]

I promise I will watch every Model 3 maintenance video you make.

[@Resist4]

Nice to see that someone is doing proactive cleaning and making a video about how to do it.

[@benjaminkindle1841]

I appreciated how accessible this was for someone without any experience doing this kind of thing. I _almost_ feel like I could follow the steps myself, but I'll probably still use professionals to be safe :-)

[@adamdport]

FWIW the "professionals" that replaced my battery under warranty took not one, not two, but FIVE trips to finish the job. After the fourth, I inspected their work and noticed that they straight up lost a bolt while replacing the ground cable. While making this video I discovered that they broke one of the tabs on that red terminal cover. It honestly would have taken me LESS time for a better job had I just done it myself! Just because it's someone's profession doesn't mean they're a professional, and even if they have experience (not a guarantee), that doesn't mean they're competent. You can always pay someone to inspect your work, or find a gearhead who'd watch over your shoulder while you get comfortable. I hope this helps you find the confidence to start this new hobby!

[@justanormaluser1535]

@@adamdport great statement! I’ve seen this countless times with apple support.

[@aaronboggs5799]

Aside from some very basic knowledge I picked up in an auto mechanics class in high school, I had no real experience working on cars growing up. I wanted to learn, though, and started taking on basic repairs and upgrades (oil changes, brake jobs, stereo swaps, etc.) using KZbin and other online resources (car forums can be a great resource as well). I’m still only a basic DIYer, but it’s nice to be able to tackle small jobs on your own. I personally plan for jobs to take 2x - 3x longer than may be stated online or you think it ought to take, especially if it’s your first time doing it. Go slow, be careful, and double check your work. Expect to encounter frustrations along the way, but try to roll with the punches and you will learn a lot along the way and be able to take pride in doing things yourself.

[@leodion8251]

Man I don't care about video length as long as you only post from now on. Thank you for the video and the information you shared with us .

[@fredhamilton1701]

Thank you! These are the most informative, helpful, and easy-to-follow auto maintenance videos I’ve ever seen. Half the time I’m watching a KZbin video I’m just listening while I play a game, but I watch every single frame of your videos. Tremendous signal-to-noise (info-to-filler) ratio.

[@maxmoq8423]

Your M3 is the same year and similar mileage as mine. In service mode, I suggest you run a "Thermal System Performance Test". Your test will likely fail. Then remove your frunk tub and check how much crap is in your radiator/condenser. I think you'll have a nice future video cleaning it coming up! ;) You will need to remove the bumper and slide out the fan shroud to properly get to the condenser to clean it.

[@fredhamilton1701]

I’m looking forward to seeing his video on that! A friend and I did it in his 2018 TM3 and it was pretty challenging and we disassembled a few things we didn’t have to, and I felt like we forced a few things that maybe we didn’t have to. So I can’t wait to watch his video on cleaning the radiator and condenser.

[@maxmoq8423]

Yeah not sure what the right process was, I also had to force a few parts to get enough room. In the end it works and my AC is working like new again and not sounding like a jet engine at takeoff

[@mowcowbell]

Or do what I did and buy a front grill guard that keeps all that crap from getting there in the first place.

[@bearlemley]

⁠@@mowcowbell We put one on the MYp the first week. When it gets cooler here in Thailand I’ll take a look see to see what has collected in there.

[@vanheath5382]

I just cleaned mine out today. I didn’t do the best job, just pried the cover back and vacuumed it out. I wasn’t prepared to take the bumper off or removed the radiator mounting bolts. I had never done it before and am at 60k miles, and was shocked how clogged it was. The fans had been running really loudly for hours and hours this summer. I cleaned all that crap out and now they aren’t spinning as hard or as frequently.

[@Martinko_Pcik]

I liked this long format. I watched it all. Very informative and I've learned something new.

[@danhumiston]

Adam, you are incredibly detailed and thorough! This is what sets you apart from other KZbinrs. Do not shorten these videos by skimping. I’m fine with your longer running times because I know I’m going to learn a lot. But you could experiment with breaking up some existing videos into “Part 1 of 4” with titles that tease the content of each. You could also lead your content description a link to full video. You do a great job. I’m excited when your videos come out!!

[@hakuchu]

Always such thorough content! Very much appreciated!

[@rhamel1717]

Those presentations are so well prepared… also, the tone and talking speed is very well delivered and it helps international audience; I am not in the Tesla family; (Ioniq 5 & 6) but I enjoy all of his presentations. What is good for Tesla is also good for Hyundai; thank you for all those little details…! And have a nice day, 👌

[@antoinepageau8336]

Very interesting. My 2022 model 3 now has 70,000 miles and I live in a heavy road salt area as well. Changing my winter tires over to summer I also take apart my brakes to clean and lubricate them. This year I noticed surface rust pitting all over the steel mono structure. Now that I see how easy it is to remove the whole fender liner I’m going to go back an apply a thin coat of that wax you used.

[@JRCarReviews]

Thanks for the video will come in handy when the car gets out of warranty. Long videos are better than short ones which make you lose focus fast.

[@kelindrawn]

Please more long form videos. Thanks! :)

[@GeneralSpecifiK]

Thanks for this video! It reminds me I need to do my yearly brake service. After your video on the stinky AC issue, I installed the gasket product listed in the description (for my model Y) and I’ve not had any trouble since. I enjoyed the long format. Also liked the black and white “don’t do this” examples!

[@stephenmiller9013]

I'm about to get a Model 3, and I have always worked on my own cars where possible. This is a fantastic video, so thank you.

[@ballison4047]

love the long videos. everyone else has short social media ready videos...these deep dives are what i appreciate. thanks!

[@iandonkin6762]

This just popped up in my feed and you are a) very concise and b) far more thorough than a workshop tech will ever be in a franchised garage! Great job 👏

[@shelllbye]

Please please make more TM3 videos. Very informative, good format, easy to understand. Enjoyed to they fullest!!

[@simonreeves2017]

Hi Adam, greetings from the U.K. Thanks for this video, calmly and thoroughly narrated with good information. Top job!

[@t.demarco8916]

Excellent and informative, the length of your videos are fine and comprehensive for the time you are taking to make the tutorial on the subject matter. Thank you 👍🏻

[@rgrams1]

I won’t be doing much work on the car myself, but it is great to understand things that might or should be done by Tesla service. I watched all 30 minutes. Thanks!

[@samuelhaynes5425]

Can you do a condenser coil cleaning next? Your camera angles are great for showing what you’re actually working on. Keep up the videos please!

[@marjiebish]

Great video! Thank you for all the details. I didn’t mind the length. It was all very relevant for annual maintenance.

[@afina_tm3]

absolutely one of the most informative videos on general maintenance of the model 3 out there!

[@johnqcitizen9177]

Awesome Awesome video Direct and to the point. No jokes No sales pitches, just a true how to video. Now you just need to buy a 2023 model x so i have some how-to videos. We will use this video on our 2022 M3sr+

[@raymondobrien367]

Like to say, love your video. I am an ASE master tech now for over 45 years. What you might not have considered is a side effect of going to ceramic pads. The metallic pads actually clean up the rotors every time you drive. A year from now you will find much more rust and pitting on your rotors, eventually destroying your rotors. Nowadays over 98% of replacement brake rotors are Chinese. I would do whatever I could to extend the life of the OEM brake rotors because of this. We have found semi brake pads that have brass flakes. Don’t rust after a rain, the brass coats the rotor a brass coating, which protects the rotors from rusting substantially. Thanks again, posting videos like this! People need more people like you! Ray OBrien

[@adamdport]

Great info thank you! Can you talk more about your implication that ceramic brakes don't clean the rotors? How is that possible? I can't argue with 45 years of experience but it's hard to imagine-I'll certainly keep this in mind, maybe do a part 2 follow up next year?

[@OptimizedTesla]

Dude. Excellent explanations. Great voice. I admire your dedication and thoroughness. Subscribed. I don't mind the length at all.

[@DanielScholtus]

I just bought a 3SR+ same year and color, so this felt like a custom video made for me 😅 Thanks! I'll keep all these in consideration for yearly maintenance.

[@GWAForUTBE]

Thanks for the great service tutorial. For a 4 yr old car, your car looked in great shape.

[@AndresRodriguezGuapacha]

I appreciate the longer form videos. In my head this could be even longer, as I'm a Model 3 owner and I'm new to all this type of DIY, so I might miss some information (e.g. tools required, how to get and understand the manuals, how to find parts, etc). In general, an annual maintenance long video could be split in several smaller videos with more details, but linked together by the common theme. I guess I'll have to wait until 2025's version :D. In any case, thanks for all your effort and explanations. It's really inspiring!

[@ChromeFlakes]

Brilliant to see a bit of preventative maintenance! Man you have the tool or the lubricant for any job going. Fantastic video.

[@TransactionVanS]

Fantastic job on the video and content. I prefer the long form videos. Thanks.

[@dennisschlieckau8723]

Very informative, thank you. Regarding the rear Caliper piston retraction. While you method worked, it should be noted, rear caliper pistons with built in parking brake actuators are normally reset by rotating the piston. They make a ratchet adapter that engages the V notches in the piston. It’s very inexpensive and can be purchased from your local AP store. Alternatively, you can sometimes use the pointed ends of a needle nose pliers. I which direction you turn it. Rotating one way or the other will show which way turns it in.

[@deandre1988]

Thorough job, love these long form well researched videos

[@AlainFattal]

I learned a lot! Thank you so much! Please keep doing Tesla-related content.

[@5777475]

Thanks for such a nice video. I watched it from start thru the end without skipping. Please keep doing this kind of video more.

[@psdaengr911]

There's a rubber plug in each fender well can be removed to spray the inside of the rocker panel with fluid film. Doirectric grease is an excellent insulator and water repellent; apply it over the outside of an installed battery terminal - to keep moisture away from the inside. (Fluid Film does the same thing.)

[@boardnski156]

Yes, absolutely! Doing that has worked very well for keeping the rockers intact on my 12 year old daily driver purchased new. I'm in western NY where the DOT does its best to keep the salt mines in business.

[@DougAdams-Outside]

Brake rotor maintenance mode is just doing a hard stop every once in a while. It doesn't take much. Even a couple hard stops from 30mph will polish them up. This also helps prevent the calipers/pads from sticking.

[@GaryVirta]

I really like the idea of Tesla adding a brake maintenance schedule/mode/whatever. I have to change out my front rotors soon since they've gotten all rusted up on the edges from non-use, but this happened before they added the low-regen-braking-assist option. I'm hoping the new set won't have that issue. Your ceramic rear pad experiment is really promising; it would be great if you gave us an update on how they behave over the summer!

[@GaryVirta]

...aaaand I just realized that the replacement pads I ordered for the front brakes are exactly what you put on the rear 😁

[@rkgsd]

If you've had old cars in years past, you should have known it's not unusual or a problem for the edge of the rotors to have rust since the pads don't touch that part when applied. My 20 year old Toyota has it but the brakes work perfectly and don't squeak. 3 sets of pads on the same rotors.

[@magarity12]

Best model 3 brake video I have seen by far. Long form video is great.

[@danial09255]

Ive gotta say this video is criminally under viewed. good work.

[@teslafudge1585]

Yes! More long form. This was great and super valuable.

[@frankmcilvenny400]

Nice video. I include evaporator and radiator cleaning too, Found why my cooling system was blowing hard and AC not optimally cooling due to debris caught in fins.

[@rogerwatkinson6633]

This is the first video of yours that I have seen - and I will be watching more for certain. I don't have a Tesla, and don't want one, but I AM interested in the technology. I found your presentation, accuracy and thoroughness to be engaging, and will certainly watch more of your videos. You refer to the longer format of this video?.. Well I for one am happy with the duration. TTFN

[@jacobheinz8236]

Finally found something useful to watch! YTube is getting boring these days.

[@gillesvanleeuwen]

Man, your editing is on point. Very tightly cut.

[@adamdport]

Really appreciate that! I don't have any training whatsoever so it's good to hear I'm doing alright!

[@ted_jerome]

Fantastic and thorough how-to video! I'd love to see you do one on cleaning the Model 3 radiator of leaves and other debris; it's a bit tricky.

[@BensonChen-y2s]

Love this video. Fantastic maintenance info. Question: Have you seen videos regarding cleaning the Tesla radiators? What are your thoughts and have you attempted that yet?

[@harveypaxton1232]

Thanks for the great Video. I love your use of carpenter tools.

[@shahedameer]

Awesome video! Thanks for the great info, and for being so so thorough

[@bm2085]

Thank you for creating these videos, they are super helpful!

[@adamdport]

You're welcome! Happy to share!

[@CharlesPare]

I saw you used the Ceramic version of the Permatex grease. I found it tends to dry or jam over time. I"ve switched to the Permatex Silicone (the orange/red one). I have much better results over time. Imo the Ceramic one is more performance oriented with higher heat rating but unless you lap with your car I don't see any benefit.

[@fckgwrhqq2]

Thank you for a beautiful video! Long form better. Rust prevention - take a peek under trunk stops. It's a plastic nut-like element at the top of a taillight. I found some rust there, but haven't fixed it yet. Front brake pins - I was unable to remove some of them with a hammer. The spring element at the end of the pin got stuck. This year I greased it too. Will see if it helps next year. Rear brake springs - Tesla's service manual states, that the springs are teflon coated and don't need lubrication. Of course grease won't hurt them. :)

[@Rasedan]

Extremely informative and satisfying to watch. Good stuff.

[@nrcsean]

Nice video! Nice to see more people giving a better look at the potential rust issues these cars have, as I'm looking at buying one and it's a big concern with the salted slushy roads we drive on in winter here. Some examples look quite alarming for such young cars.

[@evanhughes9576]

Thanks for the clear and concise instruction!

[@oxyiinc7518]

Another great video, Adam! Keep up the good works!

[@rahpowah01]

I was literally just thinking of opening the fender liners on my 2021 to clear stuff out. Looking forward to what you see (commented before watching)

[@bjrnjeppesen4445]

Great and regular video. I have a few additions. Remember to take off those spring clips at the rear brakes, rust will come under them. I didn’t see any torque wrench was used on the wheel nuts it is important to use specific torque I think it is 175nm. And lastly take care of your skin and use gloves. Great job 👍

[@MrRiceOwl]

I wish I was as skilled as you. Excellent video!

[@mygiguser]

What about galvanic corrosion, which occurs when two dissimilar metals are exposed to an electrolyte? When the car is made of steel an aluminum, and some salt water there in the winter, that could be a big problem, no?

[@sebastienfournier3672]

Very informative and well-presented video. It will be of use to any Tesla owner in Canada.

[@saltydog9321]

long form tesla videos and short form tesla videos, as many as you can make, i'll watch

[@Drcraigfreeman]

A great video, I just had the Tesla Service Center do my 4 year brake maintenance, it cost over 800.00USD, included a fluid change and a rear flex hose that was going to fail.

[@JuJoh-o3v]

Love your videos, I had rust in underbody that lead to break line corrosion and sudden break failure. Was fixed under rust warranty but still scary. Thank you for the informative video again~

[@adamdport]

That sounds insane, do you have more details? I'd love to inspect wherever that was on mine, maybe do a part 2?

[@boardnski156]

Fluid Film is good stuff! It's done a great job keeping my 12 year old car, purchased new, from turning into a crusty mess here in the Northeast. I have the spray gun and wands to get into all the hidden areas behind the rubber body plugs. Rocker panels typically rust from the inside out. Spraying Fluid Film inside the rocker panels will help keep them intact. Do that on a hot day to let it creep everywhere.

[@ArjanSchepers]

Great video, you’ve earned a subscriber. Very good camera work as well.

[@pajaranga67]

long detailed videos are Great Thankyou !

[@aware2action]

Wondering, if brake blending option, already takes care of cleaning the rotors🤞. Glad to see the brake burnishing in action👍👍. Did walk through menu, but stopped short of using it, since I need to drive in service mode😅. How do you go about brake fluid change? Saw some options in service menu, but wondering, if I still need to use, in case of pressure bleed/fill 🤔❤👍

[@gillesvanleeuwen]

Subscribe. Long is fine. Short as well. As long as there are timestamps. Like I said before, your editing is great so the long form content is very easy to watch and has a lot of information.

[@tyeun1rocks]

So thorough... I love this channel.

[@caponeprincess73]

I don't have a Tesla or EV but I really enjoyed the videos.

[@fcv1967]

Can you make a list of all the things you should have done BEFORE warranty ends? Thank you.

[@snoozieboi]

Holy crap, first of all I liked the video before the ads were gone, subscribed within 2.5 minutes of the video and now you're touching the software brake idea. My idea would be that nearing the destination of your trip, which I assume lost people like to use navigation for, even if it's back home and in familiar areas, the car would silently just switch to using brakes for the last miles or so to clean the brakes. It could be as dumb as that or as complex as they want (rain, time of year?). So cool to see the Fluid Film! I use it on my soon veteran Corolla and the rocker panels, exactly where you applied it needs it. I'm not sure if you know and didn't want to mention it, but it can smell like a farm for a reason. It's lanolin, sheep fat and it's a brilliant product that keeps moisture away from rust, a god send over here in Norway where we salt our roads like crazy. I'm actually curious as to how long it will stay on such a non-affected area or if it will be quite quickly washed away... I might be mixing up my various products but I assumed it almost required surface rust to have a porous material to permeate into. But it's better that it's there than just wet sand etc. I've seen what that does, my car had to be patched up and thus this has been exactly the stuff I have been looking for when I move to a model 3.

[@vanheath5382]

I love your videos. Thanks you so much for making them. Have you ever cleaned out your radiator coils??? I didn’t know that was something I should do and when I tried to do it today I found 70% was clogged with leaves, twigs, feathers, and dirt.

[@DocuFlow]

Wow. Just wow. Thanks Adam, great content! Maybe long videos for this type of content, and a shorter one for follow ups? For example, what's your verdict on the ceramic brakes?

[@stefanvanbraam4378]

Great video. Do you have a video for new Tesla owners.

[@johnh9449]

Excellent detail. I would just wonder what the bolt torque settings are on a few bits there like brakes - I'm sure the manual probably gives the wheel studs. Excellent detailed walk through and commentry though.

[@adamdport]

Just added them to the description, thanks for the comment! service.tesla.com/docs/Model3/ServiceManual/en-us/GUID-7A5EB3BC-E7A3-4EB1-9243-8CE50333824F.html

[@CharlesPare]

For the electronic parking break: Ask someone to put the car in neutral. (don't open the door it'll put in park). While in neutral unplug the electric break. Done! (if you're alone, open the window, push the break with a wooden stick, put in neutral)

[@radioone3447]

Long form like this is great!

[@TisforTech]

5:46 why didn't you clean off the surface where the caliper pistons push against the pad?

[@loganrossignol]

Glad you're making videos! The brake pad rusting to the rotor thing was something that didn't happen on my 2018, 2019, or my new Model Y, but I did own a 2021 M3P for a couple of years that I bought used in late 2022 and it had that happen. I live in Florida so not a dry place (esp during the summer, where it rains every afternoon). My 2021 M3P would get the pads rusting to the rotor after every wash, and the rotors were visibly rusted - something I haven't observed on my other Teslas (though I have had other cars that would get rusty rotors after a wash). Not sure why that used M3P had this happen. My new MYP's rotors don't rust, just like my other Teslas.

[@adamdport]

That's interesting, Tesla's parts catalog doesn't show that the part numbers have changed on the rotors or pads. Do you drive the others more? Do you use the brake pedal more often in the others to keep the rotors clean? It's possible that your pads are dragging a little so the rotors stay warm, could be that? If you're curious, you're welcome to try to reproduce it in the others using the tow mode and water method I showed in this video, I'd love to hear if they're somehow immune. Thanks for the data point!

[@loganrossignol]

@@adamdport As far as behavior goes, no differences really. I generally avoid using the brakes as much as possible, though I know FSD/AP tends to use them more than I would. I'm pretty sure on all of the cars, I can hear the pads rubbing on the rotors at least for a few moments after driving for the first time in a little while. The only thing I can think of is the previous owner of my 2021 tracked the car or did something with it that caused the difference - pretty sure it was a florida car its whole life and only had 8k miles on it when I bought it. My 2018 had 50k on it when I got rid of it in 2022 and our 2019 currently has 58k on it - the 2019 doesn't even have the benefit of the carport I park my cars under, it's always exposed to the rain and such, but never gets rusty rotors either.

[@AzizIzgin]

by far the best presentation of a video like this. Very well done sir! Question, do you have a video of how to remove the door handle? I have bought a new to my 2019 and want to know if I will do this myself or let Tesla do it

[@adamdport]

No I haven't had a need to look in there yet. can I ask why you need to remove it? If you're wrapping it I'd suggest seeing if you can replace it with a 2021+ handle that's already black-it will be far more durable!

[@AzizIzgin]

@@adamdport mine is with red color and chrome handles. The left back handle has peeled off on the bottom of the handle so I can’t close the handle without it touching scraping the paint. I’ve already bought a new handle… maybe I could’ve just cut off more chrome from underneath but I was too stressed about it. To wrap is of course a solution… although I really like the color combo red and chrome… other color like blue, white , grey and black is better with black handles imo.

[@bsegment]

Fellow rust belt owner, prior mechanic. You might want to consider taking out the caliper bolts (that bolt the caliper to the knuckle in the front, and the caliper bracket to the knuckle in the rear) one at a time and add a liberal coating of anti seize. It could save you a big headache in the future. Also, I'd suggest some of your purple lube on the pad-to-piston surface, either on the back of the pad itself, or the face of the caliper piston. It will help with brake noise. Finally, those slide pins are a huge problem in salt belt areas with age. I'd suggest every time you do a brake service to pull those out, wipe them clean, and apply new lube. Great content regardless, take my advise if you chose to, and have a great day :)

[@bsegment]

Well, further into the video I saw you added lube to the back of the pads so 😂🤷🏻

[@Sairus.]

I have done the same , I do use ACF50 it’s really good .. over all great video thank you for sharing

[@lbeck37]

Very nicely done video. You might warn people to watch out for fluid overflowing the reservoir when you push the pistons back. It's only a problem if the reservoir has been topped up.

[@chadnordstromvisuals]

Bruh. What good content. Thanks! Can’t wait to see more!

[@desparky]

What a great informative video. Your cars cop a lot of punishment over there from corrosion. I'm in Australia where we (for the most part) have nowhere near the same issues. My 2008 car looks newer than your Model 3. Just a couple of constructive criticisms I'd like to add to your otherwise great presentation. - I know you highlighted installing the same type of pads in each axle set, and I highly recommend you do (same type front and rear). I've been down that path and can assure you it can really upset brake bias in heavy braking by having softer and harder compounds. - Dielectric grease is supposed to be non conductive. Instead use a Battery Terminal protective product as there's many available, and put it on the corroded terminal nut on your negative terminal too. - The Negative terminal is already normally connected to frame, so shorting it to the frame doesn't matter. However never put a metal tool on the positive terminal of your battery until the negative terminal is disconnected and not touching. That way if you short the positive terminal to frame nothing will happen. Then you just have to ensure that you don't short out the two battery terminals together with the tool. Keep up the great videos.

[@adamdport]

Regarding the brake bias of mismatched pads, do you think the imbalance from pads is more than the imbalance from surface rust on the rotors or from a puddle that only hits one side of the car? Regarding the dielectric grease, I'd encourage you to watch this short (2.5 minutes) testing exactly this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fWTCnp1mmMRgh7s If you don't have time now, the takeaway is that dielectric grease does not affect conductivity. If anything, it actually IMPROVES conductivity slightly! If I could film it again I'd apply more to the outside of the connection, but the contact itself is the most important thing to protect imo. My tube specifically calls out battery terminals as one of its intended uses. Does that make sense? Great tip on the negative terminal, I thought I was surrounded by plastic but there are some metal AC lines right there. Really appreciate you taking the time to share your expertise!

[@desparky]

@@adamdport In my experience after replacing only the rear with "performance" pads I had issues where the ABS kicked in early under heavy braking due to change in bias. I replaced the front with the same pads and the problem went away. A few years later on a different car I was upgrading all the pads and only replaced the rear at first to see if the same thing happened, which it did. In day to day driving you wont notice it, but under heavy or emergency braking you probably will. Regarding Dielectric grease, I'm only going by my experience of 39 years as an industrial electrician working on thousands of high current connections. Dielectric grease is used by many people like that, but it's intended purpose is to seal a connection, and not conduct electricity (hence di-electric). The contact should be metal to metal, then apply corrosion inhibitor the outside if needed. It's ok if the terminal is tight, but if it comes loose the dielectric grease will hinder more than help.

[@JJPrachyl]

Long form is fine. Thank you for all your effort!

[@bobtreiber8556]

Great video. Thanks Adam very informative.

[@JonVB-t8l]

Great video. Some things are differnt in my Model Y though. It's a 2023 built in Texas and has a 16v Lithium battery with a locking connector. I found out I can still use a regular 12v as a jump but that battery needs to be disconnected first. There is a safety that prevents a jump if it's connected because you could damage something. Not sure where the jump points are, should probably look into it, but considering it's a lithium battery, it'll probably outlive a normal lead acid battery by 10 years. Outstanding walk through on breaks. I think Tesla does automatically disable re-gen periodically but simulates the regen with pads so you can still do 1 pedal driving. I know that's the case for a cold or full battery, because it actually says so on the screen.

[@DaroldWoodward]

Yes, that brake sound is normal just like it was for my buddy's 1972 VW Beetle when I was in college in eastern Washington. It did the same thing and the brakes froze on one time in the winter.

[@Pyralix878]

This was very helpful. I had to subscribe, thank you so much

[@bearlemley]

22:45 Battery Terminals If you don’t have any dielectric grease, one thing that I always used to use when I owned that acid batteries in cars was a 5050 mixture (by volume ) of petroleum jelly and baking soda. Mix it into paste, applied to all layers, reinstall the terminal clamp, and never worry about your battery terminals again.

[@MortyGG]

Just what i was looking for! Thanks Do you know if the same procedure for Model 3 "Highland" regarding maintenance? :) I'm guessing it's fenders is made from the same as well

[@adamdport]

The design of the fenders has changed so maybe they don't collect crap behind those, but they're still magnetic. The part number on the brake pads hasn't changed.

[@bryanchannell7715]

Bro anothet great video, what do u do for work ? Engineer ?

[@umeshchand6682]

Thanks a lot for the info. That was a great video now I can do all that myself.keep it coming longer is better.

[@borshardsd]

You sir! You are a gift to us! Great video great content. You got me subbed