Add 20 Extra Years To Your Water Heater & Get Rid Of Rotten Egg Smell!

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Were you aware that this existed and can extend the life of your hot water heater and get rid of that rotten egg smell? Were you aware what an anode rod is and that it needs to be replaced somewhat regularly? Most don't! For your convenience, there are links for everything in the video description!

[@edk8017]

Where is the link to buy it?

[@PoM-MoM]

Do any brands of water heater already have come with this A-rod in them ?

[@PoM-MoM]

How often should I drain the water heater ?

[@iesusegoconfidoinvobis4309]

I had corrosion problems with my water heater and I had to replace water heaters almost every five years. I replaced my water heater about ten years ago, however I installed a device similar to the one above. No more corrosion.

[@herschelmayo2727]

Doesn't work if you have a water softner.

[@ericfield2112]

I am on well water, and after 4 years on a new water heater we started to get a very bad sulfur smell. We had a great water treatment system but it wasn't up to the task. I installed this product and voilà it WORKS!!! Great customer service from the manufacturer and over 2 years now and working great. Great advice here as well about getting the old anode rod out, too.

[@tjburr1968]

Was the sulfer smell isolated to your hot water?

[@ericfield2112]

@@tjburr1968 Yes

[@corro-protec]

Thanks so much for sharing your experience! We're thrilled to hear that the Corro-Protec anode made a difference with the sulfur smell, especially with well water. And it’s great to know our team could help along the way! Here’s to many more years of fresh-smelling water!

[@tzavitz]

After years of trying to get rid of the sulfur smell in our well water and trying different types of anode rods, I bought this. It’s been about 5 years now and it works great….smell was eliminated.

[@corro-protec]

Thanks for sharing your experience! We’re so happy to hear that Corro-Protec finally solved the sulfur smell for you after years of trying different solutions. Five years strong, that’s fantastic!

[@abetts1971s1]

It worked for me too. Great product! No more sulfur smell

[@mattomite9097]

Two suggestions: ditch the cheap teflon tape and get the thicker tape. If the anode rod won’t come out because it’s too long for your ceiling simply lift the rod up as far as it will go. Place a pair of vise grips and tighten them on the rod near where it comes out to the tank. Take a sawzall and cut rod carefully as to not loosen your vice grips and cut about 3 inches above the vice grips. Then once it’s cut just lift the rest of the rod out.

[@ScarlettFire341]

Thx That was my concern !

[@Mark-sh2ki]

You can also pull out the old rod 18" or so, secure with vise grips, and pull the top to bend it, pull out another 18" and repeat. I will come out as a curved "C" shape. The core of the rod around which the magnesium is cast, is pretty thin steel. It bends easily.

[@redskinman0]

Came here just for that, thanks for this answer. I guess it doesn’t matter that this new rod is so short compared to the old rod or you wouldn’t have installed it.

[@redskinman0]

Does it matter if the old rod is three times longer than this new rod? Thanks

[@kayvonmansouri]

great idea, i was wondering how i was going to do it ")

[@FireBosspilot]

Did exactly this with our hot water tank and within 2 hours, all the egg smell was completely gone when running hot water, one of the first items that actually did what it was advertised to do👍👍.

[@richardsmith4187]

I installed a new 50 gal gas water heater and after a year I drained the tank and found no sediment when I drained it. I started thinking about the anode rod and then read on you tube about the corro-protec powered anode rod. I decided to replace the original with the corro-protec. Use a powered impact driver as shown in this video as it makes it so much easier !!!!! One thing I have wondered is do I need to still do a yearly drain of the tank for any sediment ?? This is a great product and the customer service is amazing. Great install video !!

[@thomasworrell6853]

It never hurts to do an annual drain down/flush. When you remove your hose, be sure to put a cap with a washer over your drain.

[@username7763]

Yes, it still makes sense to flush periodically. Also test the pressure release valve too. I had one fail via leaking but the other kind of failure can be catastrophic.

[@seashackf1]

⁠​⁠​⁠​⁠​⁠@@thomasworrell6853most people with sediment never do a flush, let alone annually. Removing sediment is the main reason for the flush so there’s no reason to do it so often when they solved the problem. Doing it once every 3 or 4 years would still be better than most people. It’s time consuming, they risk damaging the drain valve and it would waste lots of hot water for no reason.

[@ToddSails]

I like your videos. I watched 10 common mistakes of house wiring this morning and realized I reversed polarity on a line in my basement, the also supplies current to a lot of the things for my Coral Reef Salt water tank. I had a new in box GFCI, and re wired it properly. Thanks!

[@michaelpavia7964]

Excellent video. I have another alternative. If you can plan ahead before you are in a crisis to get a new heater, research the stainless steel models from HTC. There is no anode rod to corrode, and since the tank is high quality stainless- your only task is to flush a couple of gallons a couple of times a year. I needed the 80 gallon unit and it's been great. One less maintenance headache

[@bobd5119]

I couldn't find HTC. Did you mean HTP?

[@SHW5010]

I have a SMART stainless hot water tank by Triangle Tube, no issues and no maintenance since 1998, still going strong.

[@janneyovertheocean9558]

@@SHW5010 WOW !

[@SHW5010]

@@janneyovertheocean9558 have you heard of Triangle Tube before?

[@SHW5010]

@@bobd5119 Triangle Tube Smart 30 Indirect Water Heater os what I have….going strong since 1998, stainless steel, just ordered a new thermostat for it cost $75, installing tonight 12/14/2024….hope to get the next 25years from it. No anode required, plus my water comes from the city with a pH 7.2. Best appliance ever, and my New Yorker oil furnace is just as old, I have both a Spirovent and Watts expansion tank attached which helps to keep corrosive elements limited.

[@DS-fb9te]

You can’t teach an old dog a new trick. You proved this to be wrong today. I lord something new. Always have an open mind to learn new things.

[@dirkdiggler9574]

Great video! I installed one of these 5 years ago on a existing 6 year old tank at my cottage. The water had so much of a egg smell my wife would not shower in the hot water. From what i read online the hydrogen sulfide smell comes from the reaction of irons in water and magnesium/aluminum anode. So removing old anode would likely get rid of that smell at cost of your tank rusting out. So by replacing with the corotec within a full flush of tank there was no smell. 5 years later my tank is still running with no smell. Hopefully doing something inside and not rusting away. No evidence of rust in water flow so think it works and my wife uses the hotwater at cottage because of it. 👍

[@terryahrens4942]

I installed a Corro-Protec anode in my Bradford White water heater last year, and I'm very happy with it so far. I do want to mention that the Corro-Protec 20-year warranty covers only the anode, and they do not make any specific claims regarding how long a water heater will last with their anode installed. It is obviously a vast improvement over standard anodes, but viewers should not be given the impression that their water tanks will last 20 years with a Corro-Protec anode.

[@JD-xo3xz]

Good point. My thought is that the longer a rod lasts, the harder it is and less it protects by not self sacrificing quick enough. Not sure how an electrical current will affect/remove the chemical reactions between the water and minerals.

[@corro-protec]

Exactly! Our warranty is for the Corro-Protec anode rod itself. While it offers top-notch protection against corrosion and odors, we can't cover the entire water heater since we don’t make it. Water heaters sometimes need other parts replaced over time, but we're here to make sure our anode does its part for years to come. Thanks for your comment!

[@eugene188]

I was wondering about the warranty and seeing if anybody did a test on it. How do you even know that it is "a vast improvement over standard anodes".

[@terryahrens4942]

@@eugene188 My hot water does not have any odor now, and I will not have any need to inspect or replace the anode during the useful life of my tank. In my book, that is a vast improvement over the stock magnesium anode that came with the tank.

[@LessThanHandy]

@@corro-protec I say this a great opportunity to either make your own or team up with a manufacturer to produce the best water heater on the market.

[@tankthebear]

I JUST had this done this week. My water heater is only 4 years old and the anode rod was TOAST. I was amazed as we have pretty decent water here in North Dakota. Tested my expansion tank found out that was shot also.

[@Rattlerjake1]

when installing the ground, you need to remove the paint so your connection will give definite contact to bare metal. Also, you can cut a slit in the rubber cover and slide the wire through and then connect to the anode. Then put the rubber cap in place.

[@robertcastillo90]

Came here to say this. I use to work car audio and always had to make sure ground was to bare metal and not paint.

[@chrisforker7487]

The ground actually comes from the threads in the metal.

[@robertcastillo90]

@@chrisforker7487 I'm no electrician, but if that was the case then house building code would allow you to ground to a plastic box since you'll be using a metal screw. But that's not the case, you can not simply ground to something with a metal screw.

[@Rattlerjake1]

@@chrisforker7487 - Garbage! Most screws are made of nonferrous or coated metals and do NOT ground well, that is why it is important for the wire to have immediate contact with the bare metal of the chassis of the water heater.

[@lucasc6593]

The manufacturer obviously isn't too concerned with a high amperage ground connection. I agree that most of the connections you guys are referring to need a clean and solid bond, but this doesn't appear to that kind of circuit. In fact, I'm willing to bet that if you go look at your water heater, you will find that all of its screws were installed through and into painted panels. Even though those screws and panels are used to carry the water heaters protective electrical ground connections.

[@CKG1973]

have one in my RV water tank and I used to have huge amounts of sediment in the tank from well water and it smells. This past year was the trial run of the coro protect and it passed with flying colors, no smell, no sediment and no rust in the water when I drained it for winter. I am really impressed with this and will be adding it to my 2year old water tank. Yes please use a bare metal ground .

[@corro-protec]

Sounds like Corro-Protec has been a game-changer in your RV water tank! No smell, no sediment, and no rust-it’s awesome to hear it made such a difference. Adding it to your home tank sounds like a great plan.

[@garynicholls72]

Hi Gary here from the UK here grate video very interesting and informative keep them coming, by the way I'm an old heating engineer of 55 year's experience you gave a very good installation guide to the installation of the unit easy to follow and an in-depth explanation of what it does, well done

[@troy3456789]

Yes, grate video.

[@WilliamLutz-dj9zo]

The word is spelled "great".

[@donaldbracciano832]

I had a 82 gallon electric hot water heater years ago that lasted 37 years on softened well water and never replaced the anode. Kept water temp at 120. What made it last so long?

[@nickgruber2593]

This thing works. I have well water and always had problems with water smell and tank buildup. I installed a new tank and put this in with it. It works. I highly recommend this rod.

[@corro-protec]

Thank you for the awesome feedback! We're so glad the Corro-Protec anode is making a difference with the smell and buildup in your tank. Enjoy the fresh water, and thanks for recommending us!

[@eugene188]

how long have you had the new tank in?

[@nickgruber2593]

@@eugene188 about a year now

[@Paladin1873]

My mechanic told me about these last year when he was helping me install a tankless system in a building. He highly recommended them over traditional anode rods. I may switch to one after the current rod in our house water heater starts to wear out. Thanks for the tips. I've been using a massive breaker bar and all my strength to loosen those damned things.

[@BackyardBeeKeepingNuevo]

You need to heat the bolt head on the top of the anode rod to soften the Gorilla Lock that is used as a thread sealant first and the anode rod will thread right out.

[@Paladin1873]

@@BackyardBeeKeepingNuevo These are rods I've already replaced before. I wrap the threads in Teflon tape to prevent leakage. Do you think heating the heads will help loosen them even if no Loctite has been used?

[@bibbidi_bobbidi_bacons]

My impact ripped the anode right out no issue. Use the correct tools

[@jasonwtheis5921]

Agreed; these are fantastic! My current heater, which is a heat pump unit, is eleven years old now (purchased/installed 12/2013), and I replaced the anode rod once every two years. The used rods looked very similar to the one in this video after that time. Sadly, when I went to remove my fifth rod, which was after nine total years on the heater, I found that it was unwilling to come out. I tried EVERYTHING to get it out, which was much more challenging than a typical direct electric, and finally the hex head on the anode failed, so there was simply no way to get it out. I ended up going with one of these Corro-Protec units instead, which I installed (early in 2024) inside the hot water output pipe using a 'Y' fitting (provided by the company). While challenging to install this unit due to the type of heater I have, I was able to design a compatible output pipe solution and get the new anode up and running. It did not resolve all instances of sulfur smell in the hot water, but it is far less frequent or intense than it once was (and possibly is due to the fact that the last aluminum anode rod is still present in the tank). The heat pump water heater has paid for itself more than three times over (just in terms of electricity saved versus direct electric heating) at this point, and I am hopeful it will continue to provide reliable hot water for years to come.

[@bibbidi_bobbidi_bacons]

Use an impact gun

[@jpol3808]

How are you actually verifying that it will work better than a standard replacement rod? What's your tests and findings?

[@im4udevco]

I guess we have to take their word for it like most things. How do you know what chickens eat even though they told you that it's organic? How do you know all the ingredients in a pill or sauce? You trust the label of what the ingredients are.

[@karlmadsen3179]

@@im4udevco Trust. But verify.

[@farstrider79]

Since it's an affiliate link in the description, the money he makes off of the product is the proof.

[@corro-protec]

Great question! It’s all about the science. Powered anode technology is widely used to protect underground gas pipelines, ships, and other large structures from corrosion. This proven method provides continuous, active protection, unlike standard rods, which degrade over time.

[@joewiddup9753]

I've had many of these in rental properties for years now. You can test the current flowing through the tank with a good quality multi meter.

[@eshbanvelez5212]

So glad this popped up on my feed. Definitely had no idea about this and my heater is already 10yrs old. Thanks for the valuable insight brother!

[@MarilouQuirionCorro-Protec]

Thanks for the kind words! We’re glad you found the video helpful. Even with a 10-year-old water heater, installing a Corro-Protec anode can help prevent further corrosion, eliminate odors, and extend its life. If you have any questions about installation or compatibility, feel free to ask!

[@eshbanvelez5212]

@MarilouQuirionCorro-Protec thanks! Much appreciated!

[@nyernga]

Perfect timing for this. My house is being rebuilt after a pretty bad fire. The new water heater was installed 7 days ago but never fired up. The original I installed myself back in 99 and while I was familiar with the anode rods from my work on commercial boilers I never thought about my own water heater. Next time I go by my house I'm going to check.

[@stbam1965]

I'm so sorry you had a house fire How tragic 😢

[@nyernga]

@@stbam1965 Thanks Should be back in by mid January. 90% complete and looks like a brand new home inside and out. 😁

[@131R30]

Very informative and helpful. Thank you. For what it's worth, when I worked in the machinery hydraulics industry (up to 3000 psi), we were taught, as did you, to wrap the tape in the direction of tightening the threads. We were also taught to leave the first 2 threads bare, so the tape does not shred and end up in the liquid, and to use just one wrap. With that one wrap, I never had a connection leak with working pressures up to 3000 psi.

[@Bigfoot14000]

A couple of comments based on my own experience: If you have the (now pretty much obsolete) CPVC off-white plastic piping, as illustrated in your video, be aware that this product is very brittle and prone to cracking. In addition, the plastic shutoff valves commonly found used with this pipe (as shown in your video) have the nasty habit of not fully closing, even with extreme force applied. You may find that you must actually turn off the water supply at the water meter to fully stop water flow. Some water heaters do not have an opening in their sheet metal covers above the anode. With such heaters, you would need to remove the electrical connection or gas vent and the water inlet and outlet piping, and then remove the sheet metal tank cover, in order to access the anode. This could be beyond the casual DIY person's ability and comfort zone. Check your tank before taking on this project.

[@rreatery1960]

Thank you for the insight. I will check if I can easily remove my rod but my home is almost 10 years old, fingers crossed 🤞.

[@buckshot8393]

Anode rod usually has a rubber plug that needs to be removed for access.

[@Bigfoot14000]

@@buckshot8393 That;s correct, but not all tanks have an access hole in the sheet metal top cover. I know, I just replaced such a tank.

[@scotttaylor4195]

So true about the cpvc ball valves. As stated, shut at water meter or main shut off, and while doing all this, it's a good time to install new ball valve. Shark bite or brass with cpvc male adaptors.

[@Mark-sh2ki]

I think all modern water heaters have anode rod access from the top. If you can't find the an anode rod cap you should consider what is not referenced in this video and that is there are two styles of anode rod placement. One, as depicted here, is under its own dedicated cap, and separate position. The other is an anode rod that is inside the intake or outlet port such as in Bradford and White, and State water heaters. In the latter case, the supply or outlet port (depending on your brand) must be removed to get at the anode rod, which has a hollow top to accommodate the water flow. Corro Protect sells a different design powered anode rod for this type of application.

[@GaryH-pw9cm]

I have one of these and it has been working for two years just fine. I used a pneumatic impact wrench to remove the anode rod. Used a ratchet wrench to install the Corro-protect. It was an easy installation. I drain my hot water tank every year to make sure that there is nothing in the bottom of the tank. Also, I hope the piping on this hot water tank in the video is stainless and not galvanized. Galvanized pipe and fittings don't work very good with water.

[@ashemoski]

When I decided to replace the anode rod in my Bradford White water heater, the OEM unit (the only one I could find that was guaranteed to fit) was just $30 less than the cost of the Corro-Protec, so going active was a no-brainer.

[@stevewhisperer6609]

This is great! Thank you for creating the video and bringing this tremendous improvement to our attention. I immediately went up in my attic to look at a power cord routing to the nearest outlet and then I checked the access port for the anode and quickly discovered that there are two pipe lines routed directly over the anode access port with two other lines in close proximity. Talk about a buzz kill!

[@BlankBrain]

I had a similar situation when I replaced my water heater. I replaced and rerouted the pipes. I had so little space to work with, that I had to rotate the heater several degrees to avoid conflict with the drain valve. The old heater had the valve about 30° offset from the front. The new one sticks straight out the front. The cost of some pipe and fittings is much less than a new heater in ten years. I installed a Corro-Protec anode.

[@WilliamF-o4w]

Very good video. I had replaced my 12 year old anodes before seeing this video. Forget the cheater bar like he said. I struggled with a cheater bar and never could get the old anode broken out until I came up with the brilliant idea to use an impact wrench which worked perfectly, as in the video. I shut the water off but forgot to drain some water out. I got a nice hot water shower as a result. My old anode looked just like his. I had to cutoff part of the new anode because it wouldn’t fit with the roof clearance. I do not have a sulfur smell and did not use a powered anode.

[@64samsky]

I'm living in Florida with well water. This is just what I need! Thank you so much!

[@joephu]

I pulled my anode after 3 yrs and it was a 6 inch nub. I replaced it with a power anode rod. Just be aware the factory rod is very tight so an impact wrench for car wheels is very helpful

[@tedmed7349]

when I tried to get the anode rod out of my 9 year old tank it sheared the insert off of the breaker bar .

[@thomasworrell6853]

@@tedmed7349 the correct six-point impact socket with a half inch Milwaukee impact shouldn’t have any problem with these.

[@ssiiggyy1980]

Definitely knew of the anode rod but its been an "Out of sight, out of mind" kind of thing, till now. Thanks for the reminder on how to get the best bang my buck on my water heater.

[@corro-protec]

Thanks for the comment! Easy to overlook, but taking care of the anode rod is key to getting the most from your water heater!

[@julesselmes]

This! And doing a full draining (and sludge removal)

[@66block84]

I self installed two gas water heaters in two different houses. Now in a townhouse with an electric water heater. Thanks for the reminder on what I need to do.

[@jwhite4]

Does the green light on tow power supply glow just because it's plugged into AC (ie would it glow if the terminal was disconnected)? Or, does it indicate that it's properly connected to the anode terminal, and the ground wire is properly grounded?

[@corro-protec]

For our Corro-Protec anodes, the green light only turns on if there’s a specific amount of current flowing inside the tank. This ensures it's properly connected and actively protecting against corrosion.

[@mikegill7214]

Best thing I ever bought. My mother in law ADU had sulpher smell (well water filtered ) and this immediate stoped the smell. Small power requirement but beats the alternative! Easy install and I’m a caveman!

[@corro-protec]

Thanks for the awesome feedback! So glad it stopped the sulfur smell in your mother-in-law's, nothing beats a simple fix that works! And yes, low power and easy install make it even better!

[@MEGAONE302]

Do I still need an Anode rod if my tank is glass lined? I have a Rheem tank.

[@oilman1758]

You got that off very quickly. My water storage tank is 1.5 years old and used a 3ft breaker bar and an air impact gun and would not budge. I gave up before I broke some thing. Not sure why anode rod is so tight but was not able to install it. My old 50gal water storage tank lasted 27years and never even knew there was an anode rod in there. I say if I get another 27 years I got my money's worth. I do drain out the tank once a year when I tune my oil burner. Perhaps that extended my storage tank beyond it's life span. If there are any other tricks I can try I will make another attempt.

[@delendaestcarthago564]

I have a new project to add to the list. Installed a new HWH last December. I’ll get a jump and do this soon.

[@colin1655]

Could someone explain how this device is able to prevent corrosion in the tank and would the Teflon tape insulate the rod from the tank?

[@corro-protec]

Great question! The powered anode sends a small current through the tank, actively preventing corrosion without degrading. And no worries, Teflon tape won’t interfere since the circuit is completed through the power supply. Hope this helps!

[@mobilecomptrek]

If you unwind the Teflon tape from the opposite side, you can hold tension on the tape without having to hod the tape. If you think about it from an adhesive tape perspective, it would be as if you are putting the non-adhesive side to the threads. I learned this years ago from a skilled machinist.

[@jkgybg]

I'm just one of those ocd people ... I would want to reposition the plastic cover over the anode rod hole. A little snip into the center, maybe round out the center to allow roon for the electrical connection. It would just keep out dirt, bugs, mice, etc. Would that affect the electrical connection at all? Retain heat to wear out delicate parts? Thanks! Love your content!

[@JustinAZ]

I have a gas AO Smith tank and tried to replace my anode rod with one of these last year, but could never find the anode rod. Had the white/clear plastic cap on the edge, but no black cap nicely labeled anode. The owner's manual was no help either.... Only about 7 years old. What am I missing?

[@WilliamF-o4w]

Look for the head of a lone bolt on the top of the tank that is about the size of the one he pulled out. It may have no cover over it or it may have a different cover. None of mine were labeled anode. There are some cheapo water heaters that have no anode but AO Smith is usually a good brand.

[@timopalmer6239]

What is the byproduct of the chemical reaction from the new rod and where does it go?

[@coastalrob9836]

Thank you for this reminder! My electric HWH is in my garage and now 20 years old. I have flushed it twice (years ago) and changed the anode twice (along with changing one element - can't the other off!). It is still working. Many others in my neighborhood have had theirs leak after 10-15 years. I need to change the anode again or get a new heater....debating!

[@droneviewgis6699]

Hi Gary. Do I have to extinguish the pilot light on a gas water heat when doing this replacement? I also need to drain my water heater, not done in 9 years. Can this be done at the same time?

[@bigd3104]

Believe he said in the video to turn the pilot control to "Pilot" setting, which is what I would do. Personally, I wouldn't see why you couldn't drain the water heater at the same time if you needed to. Just my opinion.

[@droneviewgis6699]

@@bigd3104 That makes sense. I'll have to watch again. Thanks for the reply.

[@russbaker7974]

My old anode was 5 years old. Totally consumed. Glad I found this

[@corro-protec]

Thanks for sharing! It’s great you found Corro-Protec just in time. Enjoy the lasting protection!

[@machughes3369]

Hey bud , you want to know why yours is consumed just like mine after 2 years??? The problem is the temp, turn your temp up to 139 -140 degrees , THAT will kill the bacteria that's killing your anode, 120 degrees isn't enough

[@wd8dsb]

Yep, at 3 years my anode rod is typically almost totally depleted. Turns out that softened water typically depletes the rod quicker and I do have softened water. I could go every two years but I now replace my anode rod every year and my water heater is now a little over 10 years old where previously my water heaters failed at 5 or 6 years.

[@thomasworrell6853]

@@machughes3369 120° ain’t even enough to kill legionella either.

[@TRINInDC925]

I saw this anode rod when looking on Amazon a few months ago when my water heater stopped working. It was 13 years old and never changed the anode rod. Ended up doing some maintenance like cleaning the burner, air passages etc. But lasted only another month before the thermostat started leaking water drip by drip and received an error code that pointed to replacing that. Which then I just decided to buy a new water heater which as you know in the moment you don't have hot water, don't really have the time to wait long for parts or things to be delivered. I'm not sure if this anode is sold in stores, I can't say I even thought to check. But I installed the new tank and very much think I should have looked to get one of these powered anode rods as it would be easier to replace it while the tank was not installed and deal with the piping and vent, gas line. But when you don't have hot water, that's easier said than done to think about it. Thanks for the info and video. I do think I'll get this at some point, the added cost with the tank would also be a factor at the time. When i can save up some money after the holidays I may get one now that I know more info about the electric anode rods. Thanks again.

[@corro-protec]

Thanks for sharing your story! It’s so true... when the hot water’s out, time is of the essence, and decisions have to be quick. Adding a powered anode to a new tank would definitely make maintenance easier down the road. Glad the video helped give you more insight, and we’re here whenever you’re ready to make the switch.

[@bigd3104]

Agreed, when the hot water goes out, speed is of the essence!! LoL. I did however have the presence of mind, last time my water heater went out, due to many times of having to deal with trying to drain a sediment clogged factory drain, to replace the factory drain with a 3/4 in ball valve on my new heater. Problem solved!

[@svenska572]

Thank you for doing a video on this subject! I bought one but have yet to install it. Having your faith and trust in this is very helpful for me to get going. I'm also adding a receptacle and using the tips and tools you've shared on how to piggyback from a nearby receptacle. You're my guy! :)

[@corro-protec]

Thanks for the kind words! Glad the video helped build your confidence to get it installed. Adding the receptacle and using those tips should make it a smooth setup-you're all set for success! Let us know how it goes!

[@davidlewis620]

Holy moly! Even though our water quality around our area is much better than most, I still need the peace of mind that my water heater will last as long as possible!!

[@tjburr1968]

What makes you think you have clean water or better water then most? If you haven't already tested it with a TDS meter (total dissolved solids- $12 on amazon) I highly recommend it. My friend was boasting of her water quality and was shocked how dirty it when I tested it. Clean pure water has zero parts per million dissolved. My friends town water measured at 170 ppm of dissolved solids. Weather it's well water, bottled (spring) or publicly supplied water they both usually disturbingly dirty. My rain water measures at zero parts per million. Distilled water is always zero parts per million. Rain is distilled water. Nature runs on distilled water and so should people. I do. Good luck

[@lorinkramer5805]

Excellent video! How about a video on replacing the dip tube? The “modern” dip tubes deteriorate much quicker these days and homeowners replace their water heaters when not necessary. Symptom of a bad dip tube? You need to keep turning up the hot water more and more while showering; your water heater seems to be working properly but you run out of hot water quicker.

[@bigd3104]

There was a huge lawsuit, many years ago, regarding faulty dip tubes. Can't remember the details. Only way I found out about it was when my water heater was supplying only very small amount of hot water and I had serviced a couple faucets in my home that had small pieces of white plastic stuck in them preventing both full water flow and from shutting off completely causing them to drip. I decided to check the dip tube before replacing the heater and found it was only a few inches long. Took it with me to the plumbing store to get a new one and they told me about the lawsuit, which had expired a few years prior! Of course. LoL. But I installed a new "improved" dip tube and got several years more out of the heater.

[@Mustang-Mike]

Love your video’s. I just installed the lower heating element in my hot water tank. After tightening the element, the screws are in such a position that the electric wire is barely long enough to go under the screw. It will not reach the other screw. It’s maybe under it by about 3/32nd of an inch. WAGO’S have less contact area than what I have so I’m thinking it’s ok but I’m not sure. What would you do, leave it alone or attach a 12 gauge wire to extent the length of the wire so that I have more contact under the screw head. Thanks

[@bigd3104]

Personally, due to the heat and high amp draw of a water heater element, I wouldn't trust a WAGO connector to last in that situation. I could be wrong, but just my thoughts on the matter.

[@Mustang-Mike]

I was able to get enough wire under the screw so I didn’t need a connector.

[@thomasworrell6853]

A half-inch zip screw with quarter inch drive head should be able to land that wire in the top of the rim of that hot water heater where you need it. Just about the same distance from the top as the one he landed his ground wire on.

[@jonathonchalk6603]

Great info, Thanks! #1 why is this not standard information that every homeowner should know about - similar to changing out your furnace filters, or cleaning your gutters??, #2 why are water tanks still made of metal? Why not fiberglass or plastic?

[@mosler302]

Water tanks are metal because plastic melts from the heater element or gas flame... duh.

[@bigd3104]

Rheem Marathon offers a plastic tank, fiberglass wrapped, water heater. Up front cost may be higher than a traditional steel tank equivalent water heater, but they have a lifetime warranty on the tank itself.

[@ronaldgrantham136]

Great video! Very informative and detailed. My questions concern home owners insurance and local ordinances. In our “neck of the woods” insurance companies want water heaters replaced every 10 years or you can get a bump up in premiums. Is there a way to satisfy their concerns with this upgrade AND stay in good graces with insurance carriers? How would you go about verifying (for your own peace of mind as well as the insurance company’s) that there is no tank corrosion at the time of this upgrade installation? Also, is there any evidence that insurers will accept the 20 year additional service from a water heater that has this installed? One last point is that I’m willing to bet that Insurance companies, as well as local governments, will most likely require that this be done by a licensed professional and done by permit and inspection. Bottom line: Is it worth the approximately $200 total costs (and that’s if you ***can/are allowed to*** do it yourself) for something that could get you a fine or fee, loss of insurance coverage, and/or being told you have to replace the entire water heater anyway? Don’t get me wrong; I’m all for this whole concept. But just wondering what the overall aspects are.

[@WilliamF-o4w]

What nanny state do you live in? I would hate to hear what other rules and regulations they force on you.

[@SmooveBee1]

Ground Wire: sand that spot with sandpaper get a good ground; or clean that really well and solder (with flux) to that shell; do not use the cap of the water heater, use the body of the water heater or go to one of the copper pipes with a strap, even better; the painted metal shell is not that connected electrically to the tank as you might think!

[@MorryB]

Yes, this is the very basic flaw in the design of the product. For impressed cathodic protection to work, you need to ground the inner liner of the tank, not the outside shell.

[@generoshon9261]

I was wondering if light sanding would be appropriate when installing the ground wire to make sure you have a good connection?

[@corro-protec]

In most cases, you don't need to!

[@juligrlee556]

Should you remove the original anode rod on a new tank to prevent rust and smell with the Coro-Protec Anode rod and replace that once again down the road 5 years or 10 years later?

[@HowToHomeDIY]

I would. These just work so much better.

[@juligrlee556]

@@HowToHomeDIY thanks for your comment

[@tonyhowe3676]

If you reinstall a new "regular" rod back in your tank......do you still use "teflon" tape on the threads??? Or does the basic rod need to be "electtrically" connected to the tank via the anode bare threads to work properly?????

[@HowToHomeDIY]

“Teflon” tape needs to always be used.

[@har8397]

Does this have to go on when you first ihram the tank, or is it OK if you install 5 years after first installation

[@robertcastillo90]

It's OK after.

[@mrniceguy423]

My water heater is 18 years old, and still works great. I am wondering if it is worth replacing. We have very hard water where I live, but we have a good water softener so i would thin that would help with the sediment going into the water heater.

[@FortunateSon]

Just as effective if on a water softener? I once heard it calls for only one type of anode rod (I forget which one). Also, interesting that this rod is so short. I guess it doesn’t need to be long due to water circulation or the current?

[@donwold1622]

Nice! Is it required to unplug or disconnect power when flushing water heater tank?

[@Texpete88]

Yes you need to disconnect power to the water heater before flushing. You do not want your water heater running when it is not completely full because it can burn out the heating element.

[@michaelpavia7964]

The water cools the anode rod. You've got to turn off the power and let it cool for a few minutes.

[@michaelpavia7964]

Not the anode rod. The heating elements. Sorry for the typo

[@corro-protec]

Great question! Yes, you'll need to unplug the power to the water heater when flushing, but the Corro-Protec anode can stay plugged in the whole time.

[@Mark-dr5xi]

Another great video, thank you! How often are we supposed to drain the water heater? Will it also extend the life of the unit. I have a 75 gal natural gas heater. Thank so much! Great content!

[@darrenmoyer269]

Tried to do this on 2 AO smith heaters. On both of them the heads snapped of the rod so I gave up. Wish mine came out this easy!

[@lakeinit]

Great info, Thanks! I wonder if the ones on Amazon that are half the price of the Coro-Protec brands work just as good?

[@UncleEarlHeatingAirCondition]

Nice post! i will have to do some research on this rod. During your research, did you find any information if it works with well water? Anode rods used for well water usually take a different type of rod. I just read the specs, works with well water, and spendy for the 100 gallon one, but if it gives me a few more tank years will be worth it. Thanks again!

[@corro-protec]

Thanks for the comment! Yes, this powered anode rod is designed to work with well water and handle the challenges it can bring, like odor and corrosion. While the larger sizes are a bit pricier, the added tank life and protection can make it well worth it. Let us know if you have more questions!

[@Rene-e6f]

Thank you for this awesome information. Do you think the new anode rod will last the duration listed when installing it to an old water heater?

[@PoeLemic]

It depends, because you don't know what the inside of an older water heater looks like. Meaning, the shape that it's in, matters to how much longer it will keep working. Also, if you've filtered your water -- at the main, then the hot water heater should last longer and not get as much sediment. But, it still will, because sediment is just a part of the HWH's issues.

[@kristagerst2341]

That’s a good point to keep in mind. If the old tank goes out before the 20 year warranty for this titanium anode which it probably will then tell the plumber you hire for the new tank install that you want it placed on the new tank rather than discarding it. Or remove it off the old tank yourself before the installer arrives.

[@corro-protec]

Great question! While the powered anode rod can’t reverse existing corrosion, it will help prevent any further damage. Plus, if you ever upgrade to a new tank, you can reinstall the rod there too.

[@TheDnlnext]

Just curious….should you remove any paint or coating before applying the ground? Good video 👍

[@HowToHomeDIY]

Not really necessary unless for whatever reason you painted it. As you saw I did not remove any paint and I got a good connection. The green light on the plug would not come on unless it has a good ground.

[@corro-protec]

Thank you for your question! There's no need to remove any paint or coating before attaching the ground wire. The Corro-Protec system is designed to work effectively as long as the ground is securely connected to the tank. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask or contact our customer service team for assistance!

[@HowToHomeDIY]

@corro-protec I do appreciate you adding context and information in the comments but I recently found that the system is flagging most of your comments as spam and not posting them. This is due to the number of comments you have made on this video, some you have replied to the same comment multiple times. This was not a sponsored video and I have never spoken to you all, but all of the comments being left and the phrasing of them can kind of give that vibe off. If you want to talk about a possible future collaboration or sponsorship, I would be happy to give you my e-mail, it is listed in the about section of this channel.

[@jamesvowels2972]

I put one on 10 years ago.its perfect I am on well water it's perfect and does what it says it does

[@mikec8123]

Sounds great, how do i get the anode rod out with only 24 inches of space above the heater?

[@MorryB]

You might have to cut it with bolt cutters as you pull it out. Make sure to not drop any debris or pieces into the tank. By the way, i recall they used to sell replacement anode rods that had flexible linkages so you could install them in tight spaces.

[@alanfong8569]

Will this work on outdoor water heaters if they install an outlet? Not sure how safe that will be since the outlet will be exposed to the elements.

[@mariotome6058]

Excellent tutorial. Thank you!

[@rangerpru]

I've been using a powered anode rod for over 10 years. Absolutely changed my water heater water from a horrible rotten egg smell to no odor at all. Looks like the design has changed somewhat. Mine is a single coiled wire that you stretched to be nearly the full length of the tank. I have a well with hard water. Water softener will not correct the sulphur odor. Mine was nearly $250 so the price has dropped on these. I purchased mine from waterheaterrescue.

[@MikeJones-vb1me]

We have hard water and it wrecks the heating elements inside our tank, will this help to prevent that at all?

[@corro-protec]

Thanks for your question! While the Corro-Protec anode is great for preventing corrosion, eliminating odors, and reducing sediment buildup, it doesn’t directly protect the heating elements from hard water damage.

[@stinkycheese804]

Thanks for the video. I don't happen to have deep well standard impact sockets, and doing the calculations, the 1-1/16" is so near to 27mm that I think that would work, but for the replacement being 1-3/16", that's about 30.14mm, will a 30mm impact socket fit on that anode rod? Yes I'm being cheap, I mean why buy the 1-3/16" socket if a 30mm will fit? :)

[@refinededge399]

So you probably need 10’ ceilings? I’m not willing to disconnect my gas and water lines so I can put the tank on an angle just to replace the anode. Maybe pull it out a couple feet and cut in 2?

[@longlifeprinters9]

Excellent, thanks. My water heater is 6 years old & definitely need a new anode rod, I will check this one out.

[@SHW5010]

I have a SMART stainless hot water tank by Triangle Tube, no issues and no maintenance since 1998, still going strong.

[@sethrosen6350]

What size impact wrench do you need to take out the old anode rod? 1/4” - 3/8ths or 1/2”

[@corro-protec]

For a residential water heater, you’ll need a 1-1/16-inch socket to easily remove the sacrificial anode rod.

[@sethrosen6350]

I know what size socket I need. What size battery operated impact wrench would I need to remove the old anode rod?

[@jimdrummer816]

Just had a new water heater installed. Will changing the anode void my warranty?

[@PoeLemic]

Thanks for showing us this. I do think that this would save the hot water heater for a few more years. Great idea.

[@Lord_Dillinger]

I recently replaces our water heater and wondered about this kind of product! I will be getting one shortly, however I wonder if it will void my warranty?

[@Mark-lq3sb]

I have a 14 year old water heater and I assume the rust process has started. I would guess once it starts there's nothing that's going to stop that. I understand that this rod won't contribute to the problem, but is it worth it or should I just wait and use one for the new heater?

[@Mark-lq3sb]

@@silverS70 Yeah, I was leaning that way, but it's always nice to get other opinions. With 14 years on the ol' gal I'm wondering how many more she'll make it. My last one was 18 years, of course these were built in an era where products lasted a lot longer. I'd guess my next one will probably give-up the ghost in 7 or 8 years. Can't wait to spend more money more often...☹

[@natehill8069]

At my previous house I had some sort of galvanic issue and water heater tanks started leaking after 4 years. After the third one I educated myself on them and discovered anode rods. After that I bought 1 water heater and checked anode rods quarterly and wound up replacing rods about every 3 years and it lasted 20 years at the time I sold the house. First thing I did with THIS house is chisel out the cover over the anode rod but it simply will not come out, tried a 6' breaker bar and rounded the head! Apparently Rheem friction-stir welded it in place. They said they would replace it under warranty but I could not bring the old one in myself, it had to be a licensed plumber. The plumbers who advertised Rheem that I talked to all wanted $300-500 to Uber a water heater here from their shop (not _install_ it, just haul it here!) so Rheem warranty is a fake. Im on a well and I have smelly hot water. H2O2 stops it for a month or two. I bought an active anode rod (a Corro-Protec actually) to try, but without being able to get the old one out I havent been able to use it. I may try welding something to the head to try to turn it with.

[@mikec555555]

Well what is this rod actually doing? Will there be buildup on it like the old one? The old one will get a buildup of calcium and magnesium on it. So what exactly is this new rod doing to the calcium and magnesium? Also you made no mention of homes with water softeners. My water softener keeps the total alkalinity ( calcium + magnesium ) below 2 ppm, so would this new rod still help in that situation?

[@rollpunch71963]

will this work on a AO Smith gas water heater ?

[@RockysElectricCo]

OK-It works,my wife is happy . We have well water and strong smell in hot water,not any more -Thanks

[@corro-protec]

🤩🤩🤩

[@alanpecherer5705]

Powered anode rod. A brilliant idea!

[@kentonkirkpatrick5225]

Too much trouble to provide a battery-powered power supply? I don't have a close-by receptacle. Could use adapters so you could use a Ryobi or other popular battery. Do I have to think of everything?

[@username7763]

After I moved into a new house with well water it was clear there were water problems that had been left untreated. One problem was the strong sulfur smell. We solved the other water issues but the sulfur smell remained. After the water system was sanitized it went away and came back. I found that flushing the water heater every week or two was enough to get rid of the sulfur smell but if I didn't do that often it would come back quickly. But at least it narrowed the problem down to the water heater. I put this anode rod in and never a problem since. Really was a miracle cure for our water problems. Cannot speak to corrosion resistance as it can take a while for the tank to corrode but no issues so far.

[@rossbrown6649]

Our water heater is 26 years old, and our plumber said "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." I installed an active anode in it when it was 4 years old after we moved into the house. I have installed them in 2 friend's tanks as well, both times to get rid of their hydrogen sulfide smelling water. Once asked a plumber "fixing" another friend's anode "How often do you replace them?" and he replied "Oh we don't replace them, we just cut them off and drop the piece back into the tank and screw back the nut." Haven't trusted plumbers ever since.

[@corro-protec]

Thanks for sharing your story! It’s impressive your water heater has lasted 26 years with an active anode in place. Sounds like it’s been a game-changer for the sulfur smell, too. And that plumber story... yikes! Taking matters into your own hands was definitely the right call!

[@wellardo8833]

Yeah, if one crappy plumber says something bad, they're all bad. Haha what a dumb take.

[@pixels303at-odysee9]

​@@wellardo8833I could tell stories, but my comment would be a fart in the wind. Censorship stinks.

[@wellardo8833]

​@pixels303at-odysee9 oh there's no doubt there's bad plumbers but throwing everyone into mass groups is a dumb take. There's alot of dumb Republicans and Liberals. But to say all liberals or all Republicans are dumb is a stupid take.

[@machughes3369]

Oh gosh he's one of those if it ain't broke!! Well I can tell you your water heater that old is full of sediment, mud , rust and calcium , please replace

[@lynnmaffei]

Do you still have to flush the tank yearly?

[@bopitbull3957]

Do you put this in your brand new water heater or your existing one and it will work help?

[@MrChuckyducky1]

I have a water heater that is 14 years old. Should I get a new tank and then add this or add to existing tank?

[@bobhaire3039]

Are you sure that the teflon tape does not negate the grounding connection for the anode rod??

[@willloy8901]

Quick question; should I consider replacing the anode rod in a 20+ year old water heater?

[@thomasworrell6853]

Of course, or you will be replacing a leaking water heater soon. My water heater made it 28 years but probably would’ve went much longer. If I had taken care of the anode the last few years, the way I did earlier in its life.

[@apollorobb]

One should really take an ohm meter and make sure the tank is indeed in contact with the shell of the Heater as it is insulated usually by plastic and foam. A better grounding place would be on one of the copper lines or where the service ground is connected .

[@HowToHomeDIY]

The green light on the plug won't light up if not connected to a proper ground. It was done per instructions.

[@woodrowwilliams1812]

The anode rod on my Bradford White is very long. The ceiling in the heater closet is too low to get a standard rod out or in. I can cut the old one as it comes out. This might be a good option for a new one.

[@corro-protec]

Yes, our Corro-Protec anode rod is only 12 inches long, making it a perfect fit for tight spaces like your Bradford White heater closet. No need to worry about low ceilings-installation should be much easier!

[@LP-hs6yz]

My 50 gallon BradfordWhite electric water heater has two anode rods. Do I need two of these or one? If one, does it matter which one is changed out?

[@KevinMaxwell-o3t]

Email the company. I've found them to be pretty helpful.

[@jackyhe8278]

my hot water is 20 year old, but still work well. so need I change the anode rod.?

[@anthonyhawkins3576]

I have a max of 3 feet from top of WH to ceiling. It appears removing the old rod is a lot more involved. I guess the best thing to do is wait until the WH craps out then install new WH with a new electromatic rod.

[@emailjimsylvester]

Use a sausage-link type of anode. These are typically available at the big box stores and are flexible for exactly this purpose. To remove the old anode get some locking pliers and a reciprocating saw. Lift the old anode as far as you can, lock the pliers on what's left of it to keep it from falling back into the tank, and cut above the pliers. Lift again, lock the pliers again, cut again, repeat.

[@fargoaerials3456]

That old rod bends extremely easily. Not an issue.

[@Roadhardd]

Many rods are segmented to facilitate low clearances.

[@randyjohnson2794]

@@fargoaerials3456 It is an issue if you need to install a standard anode rod replacement. You can't bend the new one to fit.

[@fargoaerials3456]

@@randyjohnson2794 agreed... that's where the segmented ones shine.

[@db8823]

When I installed my water softener I also replaced my anode with the powered anode and put it on a UPS.

[@robertcastillo90]

Damn that's dedication lol. For those of us who's tank is in the attic, will this release us from our yearly duty to go up there and drain the tank of sediment?