Add dual extrusion to your current 3D printer - dual switching extruder guide

[@stevesloan6775]

Keywords in this video are “I didn’t even need a purge towel” There’s why you put the effort in. In my personal opinion that’s some of the best problem solving I’ve seen in a longtime.

[@t-risely]

Dude what is this sorcery! I want to calibrate my acceleration and Jerk - You make a video I just start upgrading to dual extruders - You make a video Bravo sir

[@kurtlindner]

This happens to me as well.

[@pepe6666]

i want to jerk too

[@glennleader8880]

Michael has a probe in your head. He knows exactly what you're thinking at any given time. Be careful what you think man, he'll make a 3d printed solution for it :oD

[@TeachingTech]

Many of the videos are make are based off frequent requests, just like this one.

[@Chrissi33004]

Personally I would wait for a "V2" of this. This seems to come with way too much problems for 80 bucks. The probe and the servo breaking is a no go. I love that you stay honest with your reviews and show the whole story Keep going!

[@martylawson1638]

@npgoalkeeper _ Servos are VERY easy to drive with a spare microporcessor IO pin. Going to a stamped geared mini-stepper like E3D did and adding a loose stepper driver is probably a better long term solution though. Another option would be to add some end-stop magnets so the head holds it's position and the servo can be centered after the tool change.

[@martylawson1638]

@npgoalkeeper _ I'd use the magnets to hold the hot end in position. Four 10mm diameter 5mm thick magnets in the right spot should hold vs printing forces but still let the servo switch the position. Two pins for a stepper is still more than the 1-pin a servo requires. Also a servo only needs updating at 30-60Hz and is perfectly happy with a step change in commanded position. Steppers on the other hand need ramping, simple-path planning and a carefully timed 1-100KHz pulse train. Not a high hurdle, but still more effort than driving a hobby servo.

[@dylanmacon4255]

My thoughts exactly. I'd love to be able to print dissolvable supports, but I'm not in any kind of position to work through an install like this during this school semester.

[@Twin_Flyer]

the V2 seems to have been just announced on their website!

[@TeaObvious]

The "V2" (its really a V2, so you guessed the right name) is currently on kickstarter. :)

[@emberprototypes]

This video is pretty old but showed up on our recommended list. Cool to see how this upgrade worked in detail. Our calibration tool would have been useful during the xy offset step...but we hadn't made it 3 years ago 😅

[@Billybobble1]

Yet again another incredibly useful video. This is beyond my current abilities and patience level, but if I were to attempt it this guide would be invaluable. Very interesting and great work Michael, your contributions to the 3D printing community deserve more attention.

[@DMonZ1988]

what a nice dorky smile at the end! you make the best videos Michael! shame about the slightly questionable quality but the kit and the end result are extremely cool and very reasonably priced if you don't have to re-buy any parts. thanks for going through all the trouble to make it that much more approachable for us!

[@Graham_Wideman]

Michael -- this was an epic video. Way beyond just a video, it's the summary of what was clearly a fairly intensive project. This will be highly valuable to others hoping to follow the same path, and to folks wanting to improve on this style of mechanism. Well done!

[@mikekomornick5583]

Great video! It’s amazing how lightly touched the subject is despite every 3d printer thinking dual extrusion at one point or another. I suppose it’s that much of a pain. I think independent dual extruders is the way to go from what I can gather. Gotta have bed to work with but imagine two Hemeras running around!

[@livewiya]

I have their Version 2, and used your toolchange scripts as a starting point for my own slicer profile - thanks so much! I was able to eliminate the purge tower as well.

[@thecadman99]

A solenoid would seem like a better choice than a servo. Awesome job with the build!

[@Spartacusse]

It's very hard to find information on dual extruder single hotend when people keep calling dual hotend a dual extruder. Love your videos anyways, I always learn something.

[@Fenlandia]

Teaching Tech crushes another one, this is really impressive, Michael, thanks for all your hard work on these videos, they are incredibly useful and informative!

[@kurtlindner]

I've been looking at Flashforge for awhile now, maybe not anymore... I'm really excited to see more from you on this.

[@liljashy1463]

Man, I wish this had been up like a month ago when I did this to my Ender 3 without like any guides. Lol

[@glennleader8880]

How did this work out for you? Did you need to move your build plate forward?

[@liljashy1463]

@@glennleader8880 I didn't do this exact upgrade actually. Just a Chimera dual extruder hotend. So I didn't lose any build volume

[@mattnelsen6732]

@@liljashy1463 howd that turn out? im debating between that and direct drive right now

[@miguelangelrodriguez9293]

@@mattnelsen6732 I think i might give a try at both at the same time. I think that with a chimera you might have enough space to route one entry to a direct drive extruder and the other to a bowden set up. Whole plate would need to be redesigned but it might be worth it

[@averageXIAOHONGSHUenjoyer]

that conscious smile that always seems like he almost forgot to do for presentation reasons. i m going to start to rate your performance on it. this time it came on pretty authentic so 7 out of 10. Keep up the great content Michael!

[@sharathkumarsampangi5332]

You're an amazing narrator. One video explains complete in detail!

[@lioneljouvet4517]

Like always a very thorough ground work and very good tips. Mange tak! Looking so much forward to your new tips. I must confess that your video have been the backbone of my own tinkering and your didactic has been reflected in my own teaching to my university students.

[@TeachingTech]

Thanks for the nice feedback and for watching :)

[@knucklefist8535]

Thank you for taking one for the team!

[@TeachingTech]

It was a bit of work but I'm happy with the end result.

[@defusemani]

This could be a pro tip and maybe already mentioned somewhere in the 258 previous comments but for the servo motor mounting you don't need a hammer when you can just take the bottom 4 screws out of the plate and remove it, put it in mounting position, and then reassemble the servo. Learned that the hard way building drift RC cars lol

[@harthfire2]

i used to use a "servo saver" on my RC cars basically a spring loaded piece between the load and the servo might be a option to stop burning out servos while your setting it up

[@TeachingTech]

Thank you I'll look it up.

[@lprkon72]

Servo savers are meant to take a heavy shock not designed to carry a load so they would not help in that aspect. what they should have done it designed in a small adjustable screw on the bracket where the servo would push

[@VascoRocha]

Thank you for your sharing mate! Love all your videos... with a lot of knowledge wisdom patience encouragement and insistence you are one of the best teachers I experienced! Hope you keep growing and you deserve!

[@knucklefist8535]

An alternate tool change design might be to use a simple electromagnet(s) rather than a servo, perhaps in conjunction with spring loaded detent to catch the head carriage in a precise position, reverse the polarity of the electromagnet(s) to switch the head. Some simple adjustment screw stops to get the precise head position.

[@stevesloan6775]

Really well edited and top notch footage. Pictures say a thousand words rings true in 2020. 🤜🏼🤛🏼🍀🤓

[@sunflash2]

Can't wait to watch this. I've been working with putting TH3ds Chimera Clone in my Ender 3 for a while now.

[@YourLordMobius]

I have as thinking about doing that to my cr10, but after seeing the sizes of some of the purge block i think i would rather do this option, even tho it eliminates a good chunk of the bed.

[@Volvoamazon62]

Oi, thanks for the video. It saved me a lot of frustration. This video showed me not to use this fiddly setup.

[@steveburley3738]

Thank you for the video. A very thorough explanation for this kit. I hope to get this to work on the Ender 3. Cheers!! Be safe.

[@secretagb]

Hahaha well thank you for showing me something I didn't know I didn't want! What a pain in the rear. Thanks for enduring this mess for us. I think the only part I really like about it is the ooze shield technique.

[@asulliv1954]

God Bless your patience no way could I do this mod one because I don’t know how to change code on Marlin or G-Code but I enjoyed learning something so Thank You!

[@MageLeaderInc]

Could you do a review on the updated version of this? And how well does it handle doing supports in dissolvable filament?

[@3DHP]

Wow,Excellent Job Michael,Will repost this on my group.

[@damo2142]

I purchased one of these a while ago during their kickstarter campaign. I have it on my Tronxy which is like a lot of others basically a CR10 or Ender clone. I had a lot of issues with it on Marlin and with any MKS board. What really made it work electronics wise was changing to a Duet Maestro. Once I got the tedious job of getting my hot end z offsets and all lined up and change the electronics it really started to shine. Unfortunately I just upgraded the hot ends from V6s to Prometheus hot ends and now I need to get it all calibrated again. I did have an issue burning out the servos early on but found it was my switching command and I was trying to force it beyond the stops so servo was staying commanded. Once I figured out that 95% was magic number to get it to fully switch but not over drive everything worked great and got some excellent prints. I am looking at buying another for my Ender 3. Unfortunately just about the time i get something like this working i tear it apart to upgrade something. I suppose that is the problem with being a hobbyist you are always looking to tweak something. Anyway been waiting a long time for one of the various 3d printing channels to review this so thank you for that. Also I ran into almost all the same issues you did, I did not find them that difficult to over come but this kit is not for the faint of heart.

[@TeachingTech]

An excellent summary. I did a ten hour multi colour point yesterday with clean colour changes. It really works great once the hurdles are cleared and it's dialed in.

[@toyotaboyhatman]

I was so excited when I first started this video.. "YES! someone has created a cheap open source version of what lulzbot did!".. oh wait, there's issues. I'll likely wait to see who else makes kits, but I'm glad this is finally becoming a thing.

[@ToddSaltzman]

Wow! That was a lot of work to get that put together. Great job.

[@robmolenaar340]

Great Video, bless your patience and persistence!!

[@CatCommando]

now we need a 3d printable version and a slicer that can cope with 2 different nozzle sizes for speed and beauty.

[@hyperhektor7733]

funny i had the same idea to make a switchable dual extruder ~1 year ago, great to see someone build it so cheap, next is make a revolverhead version (3-6)

[@carlhaw2601]

Thanks Micheal I have been waiting patiently for this with your insite I think I'll install mine on my ender5 + instead of ender3 😁 great job

[@chadmclaughlin6138]

Did you follow through on this? I’m having the same idea and was wondering how it went.

[@carlhaw2601]

@@chadmclaughlin6138 no changed my mind going to put it in my hypercube evolution complete scratch build

[@mikejackson4414]

A kit that is being discussed in my printer mod groups is a Ender3 IDEX conversion kit, called ender idex. That would round out your dual extruder upgrade collection for all the options.

[@josephjolly1936]

Thank you for the information. It is definitely over my head.👍

[@avejst]

Impressive work you have done. Great video as always 👍 Thanks for sharing 👍😀

[@ameliabuns4058]

PLA and PETG are awesome together btw. you can set the pla to act as soulable support for the other and it'll come right off with a perfect bottom surface! cheaper and more hassle free if you can access it! the issue i had with my printer (Doot changer) was that if any of the pla finds its way to the petg or vise versa (bad settings causing stringing etc) you'll have your part get very weak in that area. but if you tune everything it's usually fine. my main issue is that having a tool changer style printer tool changes take far longer than this. i might switch to this style of dual extrusion tbh.

[@martylawson1638]

I've been having great luck printing PLA on PETG or vice-versa. It's a great cheap way to make 0-spacing supports that remove easily. I've also found that PETG works just as well supporting eSUN TPU, and 95% sure PETG will also work as support for Nylon.

[@TeachingTech]

Good info, thanks for sharing guys.

[@ameliabuns4058]

@@martylawson1638 thank! I never knew it works for tpu too :) but I can't get nylon to stick let alone print it in dual extrusion xD strangely I can get acetal to stick for my test cube. What do you use for dude extrusion?

[@martylawson1638]

@@ameliabuns4058 I've got a Hictop D3 Pro Hero IDEX printer. It appears it's one of several names for a Tenlog design. It's the cheapest assembled IDEX on the market right now with a price gap that made it worth while even if it needed some upgrades. Worked well out of the box but couldn't stand the slow Teflon lined hot-ends. Designed my own mounts and swapped in "quality" clone all metal hot end and dual drive extruder. www.thingiverse.com/thing:4009512 I've found that glue stick works well to get nylon to stick. I also got lucky with the textured PEI metal flex plate I put on the printer as it also holds onto nylon.

[@JeroenBezemer]

Me too... Bought the printer-kit with dual extruder, changed out the sensor because the original one was flakey, or perhaps just was reacting to bad power because of the overheating servo. Bought a new one and it did not work as it was normal open instead of closed. (npn/pnp uses different +/-, so you cannot plug it in a normal end stop), also replaced servo, and made separate power supply for the servo because the temp sensors were jumping all over the place when the servo was engaged. Last week I noticed the servo sometimes moving to strange position for second hotend, and I have to find out if it is a problem with the servo itself, the board, or marlin... Now I need to dig out the hotend because it got leaky. (and do the calibration all over again). Another comment I have is the part-cooling, as the fans blow just next to the hotend, not nicely centered,so you have uneven cooling depending on the extruder and direction of printing. Probably will just dig out my Ender3, so I can just get printing again, and leave this problem child for coming summer .

[@TeachingTech]

I ended up running a buck converter for the servo to take the load off the existing 5v system for the mainboard, just like you. Also, my replacement ABL probe also had inverted logic so I switched it in the firmware to fix. Hopefully with some servo angle tuning you can fix the problems like I did. I highly recommend that.

[@DavidRelich]

Great video, as always. But daaaamn! What a monstrosity. Considering people are so squeamish about converting to direct drive, I wonder will the same people actually want to go with this kit. I can imagine all the issues it would bring to the mix. Not to mention all that trouble to actually get it working...

[@dinosoarskill17]

Awesome job man. Not everyone has the patience you do with these things. Kinda like myself. haha, thank you!!

[@TeachingTech]

I swear I was seeing this thing in my dreams!

[@3djimmy252]

THAT'S A LOT OF TWEAKING .. BUT YOU NEVER GAVE UP. WAY TO GO !

[@charlesbeshaw9843]

I noticed that with this upgrade and others that it is stated that build volume along the Y axis is lost. It has been suggested that a longer Y rail and belt would be needed to compensate. Obviously this requires some machining to mount new rail. Why not just unbolt the original rail, drill new holes at the needed dimension and remount it further to front. This way new hardware nor tweaking of firmware would be needed as the end stop would move forward along with the rail/s.

[@andrewp9945]

Wow, this is an impressive amount of work you put in here. I wonder if there is a better "kit." Have you ever tried the chimera hotend 2 in 2 out?

[@PyreRat01]

Would love the STLs for your all in one tornado. Great video as always.

[@TeachingTech]

I've got one more part to design before I release it.

[@PyreRat01]

​@@TeachingTech Thanks. Looking forward to it. Looks like a nice clean design.

[@muffiq1]

Very hard-working video👍

[@Markfps]

Amazing, can't wait to test it, thank you Michael!

[@3d-tischler100]

Intressting system. Looks like a transformer printer :) Great video!

[@jgarmer]

Great video. my guess in not to distant future fdm printers will extrude a neutral base filament and color will be added at the hotend like an over sized inkjet printer where digital valves will open and introduce the three base colors the you will have full spectrum color 3d printers. We are currently in the crude primitive early stagges of 3d printing.

[@TeachingTech]

I believe I saw a printer like that a few years ago, but I guess it didn't take off.

[@pienasty]

posted 46 seconds ago, but I'm certain you did a great video, thanks! :D

[@Pistolonly1]

Now I want one. Good video, man

[@hightde13]

It would really cool see how this compairs to the 3d chameleon kits.

[@hightde13]

@npgoalkeeper _ It is a riff on the prusa mmu1 design but using mechanical switches to activate the different extruder motors.

[@hightde13]

@npgoalkeeper _ Hee hee, I suppose so! Sposedly it dose some tip shaping to avoid jams at the extruder and you can scale it infenately. Each kit gets you 2 filaments so as long as you fan find the space to put the switches and extruder motors you can keep stacking them. I know it takes some fiddling with the start and tool change code but it /seems/ way easier than this solution, though this set up does avoid purge towers.

[@reasonablebeing5392]

Great video - watching you struggle as an experienced maker to get this to fit shows that it can be done but requires some blood sweat and tears (and extra hardware). Now that you finished the "teething" segment, it will be interesting to see how this works with the scenarios that you presented. I did wonder what kind of servo they supplied - I would upgrade to all metal gears inside if the stock servo had plastic internal gears.

[@TeachingTech]

Stock servo was all metal as well as my replacement. Planning to test all of those scenarios (assuming I can get my hands on the foam filament).

[@livewiya]

@@TeachingTech any plans to review their V2 Switching Hotend? Hopefully they've addressed many of the problems with it's initial product. (I feel as though they should be willing to send you one for review - you were very fair and understanding, despite all of its problems).

[@alexscarbro796]

I guess it’s kind of a surprise that you have to different X, Y & Z offsets for the extruders. I would have though the whole point of this rotating mechanism is that it should guarantee X&Y are equal and leave it to the user to adjust the nozzle/hot end to achieve equal Z. In my limited dual nozzle experience with my old Malyan M180, the fact that the nozzles were offset was the biggest frustration.

[@arnoldcp11]

This is essentially an electronic version of the one Proper Printing designed. Interesting. I am not all the way through the video but I am sure it is excellent as always. I thought this was an ingenious design but I wasn't ready to commit to it based on the firmware changes required. Is there a way to store many firmwares on your printer so if you had a mutant or other tool change head you could snap it on, make the firmware selection on the printer and go?

[@jamesmiller7278]

Great video Michael, I bought two of these kits on its Kickstarter but haven’t had the opportunity to use them yet. With the issues you encountered I’m not sure I’m ready to jump on the bandwagon yet but this looks to be the best manner to enable dual extruders without using purge blocks. I’m chomping on the bit these days with time to spare but unable to do anything yet recovering from shoulder surgery for another couple of months still. Looking forward to your complete set of designed parts to use on my Tevo Tornado.

[@TeachingTech]

Hi James, I think I was unlucky with the probe based on no one else reporting a failure on the forum. I'm hopeful with proper angle tuning the servo will have some longevity. One part left to design before I release the all in one parts. Thanks for watching and wishing you a speedy recovery.

[@mattmanmv13]

This is wicked impressive!

[@richardwatkins6725]

great concept and great video

[@Twin_Flyer]

Just watched the video again as i am working on a rather odd printer called a Kreateit KR-10S. Same frame as a CR-10 but a wacky duel extruder setup with a singe nozzle. Was thinking this might be the way to go to and after clicking on the link Makertech has a V2 arriving this month! Maybe a follow up video will follow as well??

[@Nydid]

Launching 4th of May :D Can't wait on the V2!

[@SparkyFace5]

My Strowlberry 😍

[@SidneyCritic]

Maybe re-drill the base to move the vertical frame back 50mm. Odd they didn't have a plate/washer clamp to hold the hot-end down, because they seemed to have so much stuff in the kit.

[@TeachingTech]

That part was definitely an oversight on their part. I can live with the 50 mm reduction in Y. Just want to use it now rather than tweak it.

[@jay3130]

well done mate!

[@danatomy1]

I very much appreciate all the effort you put into this work. I'm looking for a solution for multi-color print combine with PVA support. Can you make a video on the integration of multi-color print in the video "Smart multi-color 3D printing using only Sharpies and printed parts" and this dual switching extruder? How could we modify Marlin firmware? Best regard.

[@jakefromstatefarm8545]

This is next level, bro!

[@bumblebee1440]

Why not just use the servo to move the silicone catch? It’s great idea but why move the heavy nozzle that needs precision.

[@patrickcharton5968]

good evening, I follow all your videos with great interest and thank you for your work. I live in Corsica and I'm interested in your Makertech3d dual extruder. Do you think I could mount it on ender 3 with Lerdge Z2 card? Thank you in advance for your answer.

[@Ordog213]

Instead of the white PTFE tape you could use the thermotape that is used to cover the heating wire on Vaccum Sealers. Search for PTFE Adhesive Tape.

[@dazwraps8213]

Nice dude but can this be done to the Longer LK5... Thanks for the video...

[@Twin_Flyer]

What a nightmare setup, thanks for making the video! Maybe they need to work out a few bugs still...

[@TeachingTech]

It's big but it's mostly hollow. I switched from a Titan Aero so this is definitely lighter than that.

[@martylawson1638]

Nice video. Any thoughts on adding magnets to the end stops so the tool changer holds position passively? It would let you center the servo after a tool change. This should extend the servo's brush life and cut power consumption.

[@TeachingTech]

That's a nice idea. I think there would be room for them too.

[@NicksStuff]

Obviously it comes with its problems but that kit is very promising, fairly simple and decently priced

[@LostSoul3471]

This is very tempting but doing this on an Ender3 Pro would be a tiny nightmare, not to mention losing 50mm of print volume is terrible. Mainboard aside (I've got a MKS Gen L) but would the stock PSU be enough to drive 2 hot ends? Also how hard would it be to move the bed forward by 50mm to compensate? I just finished doing a direct drive conversion which would be gone by doing this plus the metal only ABL is an issue as I really like my glass bed. Decent price for the kit tho so much thought will need to be made on if I want to go that far with my frankenprinter.

[@TeachingTech]

Hi Chris, the PSU in the Tornado is only small (because the bed is AC). It seems to have no trouble with this, I've done a long print now to verify. To fix the bed you would need to extend the extrusion the bed travels on and the belt too. There just isn't enough travel otherwise.

[@charlesbeshaw9843]

@@TeachingTech Michael and Chris, It would seem that when changing hot end configurations that move them further to the front. I would think that the Y axis rail/s could be unbolted, drilled and reattached 50 mm to the front. this should not entail any further hardware or firmware changes.

[@MMK-342]

Thanks for this great work

[@HackMonkey]

Curious how much extra weight this added? And potential for resonance in the prints? Seems like a pretty big mass to be slinging around.

[@TeachingTech]

It's heavier than a stock hot end but lighter than the direct drive I previously had fitted. On a moving bed y axis printer like this, you need to add a lot of weight to x before it is more limiting than the heavy bed.

[@HackMonkey]

Thanks for following up. Any thoughts on how this might compare to a system like the 3D Chameleon?

[@StumblingBumblingIdiot]

More power to you man. This seems like a crazy upgrade to tackle if you are not very experienced and have extra parts on hand! I would love to add dual extruders to my Ender 5 so I could use dissolvable supports or dual color and at this price point I would jump at it if it were more of a plug-n-play kit. Wonder if it is this hard to build one of their own printers with this included. I was curious how much build up you got on the ooze shields and if you had any problems with stringing coming from the ooze shield once it switched back to that nozzle. Your print looked really good so i am guessing no problems in that area?

[@TeachingTech]

After that final slicer tweak for the tool change script I have literally no ooze. Once the shields are positioned correctly they do a great job. Before the slicer fix it was extruding a blob before the change that would sit waiting until the next tool change and ruin the part.

[@dinomaskot90]

Quick note regarding grounding PSU to the machine frame.. If the frame itself is not grounded (most likely it isn't), there is no point of connecting ground wire of PSU to the frame, on the contrary, in case something goes wrong, and PSU decides to send Live to Ground, your frame has just turned Live and I guess I do not need to explain what happens next.. If you wish to ground your machine, then you should just connect the ground from PSU to the ground on the mains outlet. If you ground it this way, you can even leave the existing wire between PSU and the frame, as it will also be grounded properly.. I understand why the confusion.. Most electronic devices with metal casings have their casings grounded by connecting them internally to the mains outlet ground, and people know that all metal parts should be grounded. This is done so if the unlikely event of live wire from the device touching the casing were to happen, no one would get electrocuted by touching the casing. Unfortunately, it is not the case with a lot of eastern 3d printers. P.S. If I made the wrong assumptionf, I apologize. I have no intentions of starting some raging conversation, just saw a possible health and safety concern and had to write all of the above. Great channel. Wish you all the best.

[@nmora8313]

Would the motor for the Tevo Tornado on the gantry slot support the weight of the dual extrusion attachment?

[@AndrewAHayes]

It looks as though this is not even Beta quality, by the number of similar faults on the forums there are major design and quality issues that need to be solved post-haste before this product gets labelled as "PONY" by the community, I refuse to believe that the manufacturer was not aware of the problems with this product when they launched it, very cheeky!

[@TeachingTech]

I didn't buy mine this way but it was a Kickstarter and that brings a certain reputation.

[@oswaldcobblebot]

This is insane!

[@RockoShaw]

Thanks for your efforts. Question, is this compatible with Anycubic Kobra Max? Bought a super overpriced one until I realized it was too late and I would like to try this

[@thelknetwork1883]

Does this work with dissolving filament? Also, does this work with a CR-10 S5?

[@hankyknot]

Could you set one of these up with different nozzles on each side? Not to mix colour or filament but to have the ability to go from printing with a 0.4 to a 0.8 nozzle just by selecting a different extruder in your slicer?

[@ScottLahteine]

Coincidentally I just patched an issue in Marlin where it wasn’t getting the servo angles set up or edited correctly. The fix is in version 2.0.4.4 released today.

[@aaroneckardt5514]

...damn...wow... You always amaze me.

[@smgBy2001]

Is it worth doing this to a Creality Ender3 or are you better off just getting a geeetech dual extruded printer instead? How does the geeetech compare to a Creality? My main reason for wanting a dual head printer is to be able to print supports in a soluble filament not really that concerned with multi color for my application at least not I. The near future

[@kazolar]

This servo action has been around for years. The reason it hasn't been productized was because it's so incredibly fiddly and glitchy. People were still running wade's printed extruders when this was first introduced.

[@MechInvent]

Wade is still King IMO lol.

[@tinkerduck1373]

Interesting, that there is a product already available for this. For some time I'm working on a DIY- solution, but I rather had limit stops and magnets in mind.

[@David_Ladd]

This is a cool video. Thank you for sharing. I got a Creality Ender 3 for a late Christmas gift and was wondering if this dual extrusion kit could be adapted to work on a Ender 3 with the SKR V1.4 board? Also how hard would it be to also add direct drive support on this setup?

[@kung-fubadger3766]

Could this work on an Ender 5 Plus

[@dbackscott]

Does this kit use the same connectors used by the BL Touch?

[@NupurChoudhury-vv5gl]

Any extruder kits you can recommend for printing with fibre reinforced composites?

[@davidbock5148]

Would it be very complicated to use a closed loop servo to make sure it positions correctly, I have seen these on tri-copters for control.

[@sTsx24]

Can you get this to work in Cura without using the makertech edition?

[@juptuber6824]

Why its so complicated? Why you cant just use double hotend or 2 hotends next to each other without servo

[@stellar4379]

Is it possible to add this to an artillery sidewinder x1 by any chance?

[@montywhisp]

Is this possible to make somehow work with Sidewinder X1? the direct extruder don't give such a space I think 🤔

[@chrisleech1565]

You can get better servos. Anything badged with Tower Pro doesn't impress me. And I do know a little about RC modelling. all-metal geared analogue or digital servos with a good deal more torque and speed are really quite easy to find. Hobby supply shops like Aloft Hobbies in the USA, another is Hobby King ... vast array of gear and has warehouses in Canada and USA. What is one to do with an Ender3 to get a water soluble support material in play?