Adding a Floor Support

[@RedfishCarolina]

I'm going to be doing this under a 120 gallon aquarium. Perfect video. Thank you!

[@abnerrivera3986]

I am definitely confident enough to tackle this job after watching this video demonstration. Will save me thousands of dollars!

[@alfredwallace4975]

This made something that seems so intimidating seem not so scary and totally doable. Thanks!

[@stephenzimny3285]

Love your calm presence and understanding teaching style. Awesome video and very helpful.

[@Teach2Build]

I appreciate the kind words! Best of luck on your projects...

[@Breezeyogi]

Absolutely outstanding tutorial. Best I've seen on KZbin. Thanks friend!!

[@Teach2Build]

I appreciate the kind words!

[@Jdplayz-bq4ys]

love watching your videos man. Your channel is very underrated.

[@Teach2Build]

Definitely appreciate it. Lots more to come!

[@growyourgood8459]

Reverse the direction of the Jack (flip it, with screw section on bottom) when supporting wood as is in this application. Just did this and caught that instruction on the box. This jack looks exactly like the "Tiger" brand jack I used.

[@brucegraham4142]

Thanks for the details and great illustration! I've read that "jack posts" are not recommended as permanent supports but rather temporary to raise or level floors and then replace then with appropriate material supports (lally post, wood beam, concrete ...etc.). I have two jack posts (16,000 lb capacity ea.) in place right now to slowly level the sagging floor. Once it is levelled, I was planning to find out what best material to use to replace the jack posts for "permanent" support. Your thoughts on that please. Thanks.

[@Teach2Build]

The posts used in this video are code approved for permanent use if installed properly, but if you're looking for an alternative, cedar or pressure treated 6x6 posts can be used as well.

[@brucegraham4142]

@@Teach2Build Thank you for your quick response and guidance. Much appreciated!

[@elowell85]

Perfectly explained! Thanks for the great video!

[@cindycyr4272]

Some people won’t even attempt this. 😂 my home has old chimney brick and mortar supports which is crumbling. I can’t even get a contractor to do this job in our city. So the burden is left with me. Which I’m fine with 😊 I am a female who loves doing manly jobs including car repairs. Thank for showing me how these jacks work. 👍

[@patrioticmisinformation7184]

It’s probably a liability thing for contractors. You can do it though!

[@josevaconcelos8210]

thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I just bought an old house that needs some crawl space TLC. Now I got an idea on how to do the job.

[@chrishouse5753]

Been a long time since posted but incase you come back to comment, I always hear "small increments" (never hear 1/4" per week before) - I'm going to be getting rid of about an 1" sag in an exterior wall. As I am removing all the interior finish from all exterior walls (to beef up insulation) should I worry about jacking it up all the way in one go?

[@Teach2Build]

Hey @chrishouse5753 ! If you're removing interior finishes including drywall, I would think you could go all the way. Best of luck with your project!

[@kunsangga5631]

Thank you so much. I' m going to follow you step by step. Wonderful video!

[@BIG_762]

So 1 floor jack is good enough for this support beam? How long should a support be before you add a 2nd floor jack? Thank you for the instructional video

[@Teach2Build]

Usually, I'll add an additional jack for every two or three floor joists.

[@Earthboundmisfitri]

Wooden beam should have the screw adjuster at the bottom against the footing on the bottom with the wider surface area of the pipe against the wood, the way shown works fine for a steel beam

[@charleswilson4598]

My floor joists are 2x8 (undersize in my opinion) and they need some support. The previous owner tried to do this by sitting concrete blocks on top of the pea gravel and putting the jacks on top of the blocks. A couple of them have fallen out of place. But it seems to me that if the concrete block just sits on top of the ground it will heave with the weather, especially in the winter. Wouldn't those support blocks need to be dug into the earth to prevent heaving? I have also thought about sistering some of the joists to strengthen the floor.

[@Teach2Build]

Heaving can be a concern, and my experience only goes as far north as Tennessee, so you may be right in that circumstance. Get an engineer in your area on the phone for two minutes and get his thoughts. If it's a concern, you'd have to go pretty deep to pour below the frost line, making for a tough project! Sistering, when done right, is a very good solution, yes!

[@bend4852]

Since you have a crawlspace you're gonna have to dig a hole down there and pour a footing a foot deep at the very least and be sure to tamp down the dirt really good and maybe put in some pea gravel before pouring the footing

[@charleswilson4598]

@@bend4852 Yes. I know what needs to be done and if I was 30 years younger I would probably try to do something about it.

[@francisgill1929]

now I am confused, some people claim you can not put a post under - 3 - joists like that - the jack can only be put under - 1 - joist = which one is right, thanks for sharing

[@Teach2Build]

@francisgill1929 if your header is sized appropriately, and you use the proper number of support posts, you can definitely bridge multiple floor joists. Best of luck with your project!

[@CY-ZG]

Thank you , very clear demonstration

[@YakMotley]

Great video thanks!

[@frankowalkk3476]

Nicely done !

[@TrainFlood]

Wow amazing presentation. Subscribed!

[@Teach2Build]

Thanks so much. Watch for more and more new content!

[@petulakowchee3112]

Yup, thank you

[@noegarza4746]

What if the the 6" carrying beam is missing is 2ft. a quarter way through and the 8" joists aren't level to left ?

[@Teach2Build]

Sometimes, a simple, straight beam isn't right for the situation. If it's going to require an elaborate solution, might be worth getting an expert opinion!

[@williammcleroy558]

Great tutorial! Thanks!

[@basicamericanliving6017]

Do you anchor the jack to the solid concrete pad with some kind of screws at the bottom? Or do you just consider the weight enough hold the bottom of the jack in place on the concrete pad?

[@Teach2Build]

While there are plenty of supports like this that are just sitting on the pad, I usually use some Tapcons to keep it locked in. Best of luck with your project!

[@milespauli8308]

if this is going in a crawlspace with some stone under a vapor barrier (radon mitigation sheeting) can I just lay the thick concrete paver down on the ground? level it and tamp it down and then start? I imagine it's going to press down pretty hard as soon as I start putting tension on, but I imagine it will find its natural low spot..

[@danmcgher6057]

@@milespauli8308 Concrete pavers don't have the same crush resistance as irregular small/medium crushed gravel. Dig a hole, fill it with that, compact, then place the paver. IMO, I'd consider pouring a concrete footing/post heavily. Main reason is that you want any support structure settling to occur evenly and on balance as you slowly jack your home. Concrete pads alone run the risk of throwing forces off tilt. I've only done bedrock posts under a garage slab, so by no means an expert but hopefully food for thought

[@tasmaniandevil7610]

The beams need replacing beneath the wall running with the floor joist not under the joist.should I build a beam setting right under the floor then replace the damaged beams ?

[@lizannelorusso6221]

if you want to support or lift joists across 45 foot span would 10ft 4x6's be just a stable as 10ft 6x6's? (seems like there is more area on the 6x6 to provide stability to the jack or is that just irrelevant?) I'm planning on using two pole jacks per board placed 3.3 ft from each end. (thirds theory) I'm lifting the sagging joists due to a crushed center beam. Which will be replaced after the house is level again.

[@Teach2Build]

Moving up in beam size is never a bad thing! That being said, a quick web search for a beam span table will help you narrow it down, also.

[@lizannelorusso6221]

@@Teach2Build thank you!!

[@jes4596]

awesome vid. Question...I'm installing a 500 lb. wood stove in my 1878 home on the first floor. All I want to do is put a little support so my floor wont sag with the extra weight. My Joists are 2 1/4" x 8 " 16" apart. their in good condition. So I will need tall floor or screw jacks to do this. I will be spanning 3 or 4 joists. Do I need 2 jacks or would one be enough to help with the 500 lb stove ??

[@Teach2Build]

I would use one if you can get it centered directly under the stove. Otherwise, use two to be safe. Best of luck with your project!

[@CMS069]

I'd use 2

[@mattwhisnant5926]

Thanks!

[@Amber46327]

What is the name of the specialist that you are referring to?

[@maheshpatel3495]

Hi, is a solid concrete pad required if I am going to place the Jack in my basement? The Jack will be about 8 ft long without the concrete pad.

[@Teach2Build]

That depends on the thickness of the slab in the basement. If it's not of an appropriate type or thickness, you could end up just damaging the slab. You might want to talk to a local engineer. Best of luck.

[@benhodge8128]

Just use a treated 2x8 Or 2

[@mangos2888]

​@Ben Hodge why would 1-2 treated 2x8s be better?

[@fernandowhite7424]

Do you have a link to these jacks? Everything at Home Depot/Amazon seem more complicated/expensive than the jack you are using. Thanks!

[@Teach2Build]

This is the type in the video. Make sure you get one in the correct height range for your project! Tiger Brand Jack Post JS-36 1'7"-3' (15 Ga) a.co/e4YP7hZ

[@fernandowhite7424]

Thanks!!! I really enjoy your videos!

[@Sean-gu2ii]

What if your basement floor concrete is uneven ?

[@Teach2Build]

@@Sean-gu2ii that's a common challenge, yes. A level can be used on the cross support to aid that. Best of luck!

[@Sean-gu2ii]

@@Teach2Build thank you for the response. the issue is my house is over 120yrs and the basement floor is a pour that is almost wavy in the spot I’m looking to support so I don’t know how to have the brace stand correctly on the ground

[@Sean-gu2ii]

Unless breaking our the floor there and repourong to make a flat surface where the brace needs to stand ?

[@Teach2Build]

@Sean-gu2ii That's a solid idea, yes. Quite a bit more work, but worth it in the long run for a permanent fix.

[@LarryMcDonald08]

Do you have a link to the floor jacks?

[@Teach2Build]

The one used in the video was from Tiger. They're available just about everywhere, but you'll need to search your local supplier's website to be sure. Best of luck with your project!

[@LarryMcDonald08]

Thank you.

[@23desdfe345r2fd23f23]

why use pressure treated lumber?

[@angelf9800]

Where can i buy this

[@Teach2Build]

@angelf9800 these are available at most big box hardware stores.

[@doughoover6635]

You didn't incorporate the concrete block you just left it off to the side

[@lmtdnrg317]

He said go take care of it I know you got better things to do.

[@michaelparker5030]

😎✌️

[@carlthornton3076]

Very Good!... 10 🐄🦉🏴‍☠✝

[@glorygloryhallelujah]

He said "Chutzpah"

[@sammyperez7973]

Awesome., Thank you for the video.... Mwahahaha.

[@dorothymartin8557]

How come they never show how to support with ANGLED new supports in angled roof parts that people ACTUALLY don't know how to do?This isn't rocket science and similar repairs are all over KZbin.

[@Teach2Build]

Hey Dorothy! This video has a narrower focus. I'll add your recommendation to the list of future videos. Thanks!

[@Cozcacuauhtli]

THANKS