Adding Central Dust Collection to My Wood Shop

[@trevorklarer3706]

Reginald is now my favorite side character of under dunn

[@ZGryphon]

That will make the planer sad, but I respect your choice.

[@21mph12]

Don't underestimate Reginald. He's a crafty one...

[@ve2vfd]

The Auto-Pilot from Airplane! lost his job and you hired him as a dust collector! That's so nice of you. :)

[@bradlemmond]

His name is Otto. ;) Thanks for making me smile!

[@ve2vfd]

@@bradlemmond Well, he had to change his name after the incident on that plane... :)

[@justinrowan594]

What do you make of this? Maybe a hat, a broach, a pterodactyl?

[@TheKrololo]

lol

[@original-benandez]

Thank you squire, this made me chuckle ☺️

[@berthatton9410]

I jump right to your videos when I see them. I enjoy your "machine gun" editing when showing repetitive tasks. Thanks.

[@chriswolfe351]

I find it amazing how someone like me, who is utterly uninterested and incompetent with anything involving the kind of tools you tend to show off on these videos, can be utterly fascinated at watching you talk about, or do work on this stuff. Also, your editing skills are incredible. You don't make this stuff look easy, you make it look effortless.

[@wiresmith2398]

That sort of stop-motion / stutter motion thing you do ( @ 2:44 for example ) is just so cunning, love it.

[@BluDog35]

HI REGINALD!

[@OutDoughboy]

He's a good boy

[@Blasterxp]

He sucks!

[@M104-q9y]

I'm glad you do know about the 90 degree bends and just chose to do it anyway, as opposed to having done all that work without knowing they're not ideal.

[@DocNo27]

Luckily they do make "sweep elbows" in 4" too: www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-PVC-DWV-90-Degree-Hub-x-Hub-Long-Turn-Elbow-C4807LTHD4/100678017

[@DIYBuilds]

As someone who used 'Ts' and hard 90s in my system i can tell you using 2 45s does not mater in a system / shop this size. There is still plenty of suction at the tools.

[@wxguy84]

I appreciate that you are a real woodworker that screws up things. Thanks for including your screw-ups. I think the other KZbinrs need to do it more often.

[@stevenemert837]

Man! I just realized, you got a lotta tools! Norm would be proud!

[@fourutubez7294]

I like work: it fascinates me. I can sit and look at it for hours.

[@sirBrouwer]

you should become a floor manager. You would be paid to do so.

[@waynerudiger1756]

That sticky outie thing you cut off the back of the radial arm saw blade guard is to prevent boards from lifting when ripping. No loss removing it.

[@namAehT]

That bit you cut off is the hold down for when you're doing rip cuts on the saw, you adjust the guard so that nub is almost touching your wood. That way if the saw kicks it'll keep the piece from flying into your face.

[@peterogers7561]

You are definitely going to want a cyclone between the planner and the main pipe. The amount of chips produced by the planner is staggering.

[@Crewsy]

I’m sure he’s already considered that as part of his “upgrade my Harbor Freight dust collector later” comment. Now that he converted his DeWalt planer to a helical style (?) cutter head the chips from it are much easier to manage. Especially when planing pine. The dust collector the community woodshop had needed to have the prescreen mesh checked after anyone ran pine through the planer because the chips would block it completely.

[@tonydavis6487]

Just a little piece of advice for those blastgates.. I spent a bunch of money on the same ones. They will eventually plug up and its usually sooner than later. Either build your blastgates or buy the ones that are self clearing. It will save you a ton of time and money having to buy or make ones and redoing the entire dust collection system....Like myself. 😊

[@bjdhaak]

I love how your shop is allmost as featured as the construction company shop that i used to work at.

[@Vikingwerk]

A good addition to wood shop dust collection is a drop to floor level with a hand gate at easy to reach level, and a dustpan-shaped bottom with a expanded steel grate. Lets you sweep up the shop directly into dust collection, with the grate to stop big chunks like screws and whatnot. The woodshop where I went to school had several of these drops, and it made cleaning up the shop a lot quicker at the end of the day. I might add some magnets as well to help catch hardware.

[@drooten]

Loved how you fearlessly drilled that hole into your bandsaw!

[@ArniVidar]

That's looking great, and I'm glad that you noticed that lack of 45's in the system, but one thing I'm very curious about: Why is there one flex hose, (the one you seem to be pointing at for future connection to your router table) that has no gate? Why is that one hose always open and reducing suction in the rest of the system?

[@Bloodray19]

I love that intro so much. Reginald is cute af

[@aspidoscelis]

I saw the thumbnail and was all excited to see your collection of different dusts from around the world! Oh well. :-)

[@thewritingroo]

Me: Wow, Rob's love of woodworking makes me want to learn woodworking. Also me: My lack of a workshop area, new baby on the way, and horrible anxiety about chopping my arm off will prevent me from ever attempting it.

[@christopherdahle9985]

Joseph, obviously you have to build a cradle for the baby... But seriously you can make a great start with a simple tool kit and a modicum of care. Get a cheap shop vacuum, a hand held "jigsaw", and work on the kitchen table. You can learn a lot and make a lot just by leafing through a "woodworking projects for kids" book from the public library.

[@RealLuckless]

Check out Rex Krueger's "Woodworking for Humans" series of videos. kzbin.infovideos It focuses on use of simple handtools in compact workspace setups. You can make a lot of very fine pieces with a small work bench and a simple toolbox of gear without needing a huge shop and loads of expensive tools. I suggest focusing your efforts on small storage boxes, and building tools to help you build better projects in the future.

[@thewritingroo]

@@christopherdahle9985 I like this advice, thank you! I might take up on that.

[@thewritingroo]

@@RealLuckless I added the channel to my subscriptions, thank you!

[@ThePavotrouge]

Your videos could be classified as ASMR, it's so relaxing to watch. also, your woodworking skill reminded me of Norm Abram's show on PBS called 'The new yankee workshop'.

[@therick8417]

Hats off to your editing! So much better than 5x speed or whatever others use

[@WyrGuy2]

Your ingenuity of design/construction and ability to think through problems with your projects is inspiring. The plywood supports for the ducting is a good example. I’m still (slightly?) envious of your shop size vs my single car garage sized one but, I’m just collecting my materials to make the miter/radial arm saw workbench you came up with and I’m keeping my radial arm saw for the same reasons you are, dedicated to dados/half laps. Looking forward to the ‘new’ look of Reginald once he gets his permanent home as well as his new ‘top hat’ cat ridge filter... Maybe a handlebar moustache look??? 🤔🥴😎

[@8056443232]

Great video! I have had a lot of experience with plastic plumbing for all sorts of projects. I have found that air or water, there is one thing in common: if you oversize the pipe, the flow speed gets slow enough that buildup can occur. In pools, often the owner wants me to install a variable-speed pump for energy savings, and that can have the same effect: slow the flow, and sand, dirt, and kiddie toys will drop out of the water on the way to the pump/filter. I would be careful not to do the same thing with your very cool dust collection system here.

[@daveb8598]

Love the videos! I hope you can upgrade to a canister filter for that dust collector someday. You really need the extra air flow if you have that much pipe and blast gates (none will be perfect at sealing). It will also help to have the extra airflow if you add a chip separator. Stumpy Nubs did a really good video on dust collection rather recently. He talked about trying many different systems. Seems like choosing 4 inch was best for the power you have in that harbor freight dust collector.

[@RussellNelson]

11:13 "It's taken long enough to get this video out." Yes. We already noticed the dust collection pipes in previous videos. But you are forgiven.

[@Joostuh]

@7:50 a sudden increase in hair length.

[@Microfrost]

Robert, man, I love your editing style.

[@unclebedhead9099]

@Robert, you do not want to use those blast gates. i have them, and they're useless. they tend to fall apart, and they collect dust in the track the slide travels in. closing the gate doesn't dislodge the dust, it just compacts it. i strongly suggesting using gates that when pushed close, come out the other side to clear the dust in the tracks.

[@anew742]

The assembly is like a grown-up version of those marble runs

[@errorunknown667]

You are 100% my favorite KZbinr

[@DIYBuilds]

Great video as always. Am I sensing some inspiration from the 3 in 1 sanding...?

[@deefdragon]

I saw the right angle fittings as you were installing them. Caused me quite a bit of sadness, but at least you acknowledged it at the end of the video. The other thing that I am not 100% sure if it is the best decision is the amount of flex hose. I don't think it will matter too much given the size of your shop, but that flex hose next to the collector itself is likely having a rather large impact in airflow. At least you plan on upgrading the system in the future and can hard-pipe it then.

[@dougc78]

Love the videos. A combination of hilarity & inspiration with a smattering of pure genius. Keep up the great work.

[@EvanDunville]

Not too shabby, if you put a canister filter on you will get some more performance out of the system. Also that long flex hose at the end is definitely a restriction point. If you were to stand the collector up to match the inlet height it would also improve performance. Your still further along than I am! I just have a cyclone and blower with one flex hose that I stretch over to my tools.

[@captbuscemi]

Love it!! Most entertaining woodwork KZbin channel out there, keep em comin mate!

[@ScottWalshWoodworking]

Ah! I'm working on this auto-dust collector setup right now on my channel! Good stuff and I look forward to more!

[@qeijkak]

That was very satisfying to watch it go together piece by piece like that.

[@noochification]

Great Video! That little sticky bit on the radial arm saw? Maybe there to shoot those chips down off the blade... probably would have helped your design a bit. From what I could see, it looks like you're getting some recirculation inside that box, make it a bit taller and maybe ramp up the backside to help the air make that 90° turn.

[@allanbeasley4565]

Just found this channel. Love the humour, great straightforward information. Thanks.🇬🇧

[@lv_woodturner3899]

You may feel a 6in main line is pointless, but this would reduce the pressure drop a LOT compared to the very long 4in lines. The splitters have a LOT of pressure drop compared to other fittings perhaps other than 4in to 2 1.2in reducer. You may have air flow at all the outlets, but you will have a lot of variation in the flow and head. I used to have the same plastic blast gates but found sawdust collected in the lower corner preventing the gate from closing all the way. I replaced mine with the metal style which is open at the bottom so I do not get the sawdust building up problem. Dave.

[@michaeltooley7573]

Love your editing style I get a laugh every time!!

[@sammathis]

As satisfying as this was for me to watch, I can only imagine how satisfying it is for you to be able to benefit from this.

[@ModernRemade]

You seem like a super like-able guy! Great video, concise and straight to the point. I actually picked up the same dust collection a couple months and need to do the same for my shop!

[@wldm5164]

You can save your wood shop from burning to the ground unexpectedly by running a bare copper ground wire on the inside of your main ducts to prevent electrostatic discharge issues.

[@GraemePayne1967Marine]

Nothing wrong with doing that ... except that it is not really necessary. Yes, big INDUSTRIAL DC systems must be grounded, buy they are moving vastly more air and material every day than a home shop may move in several years (and the OSHA regulations say they must). I am not aware of, and I don't remember seeing any authoratative YT woodworker reporting on, a FACTUALLY DOCUMENTED case of a HOME workshop suffering a dust explosion (the mmost likely event) or a fire caused by static electricity. The bigger fire hazard that I have heard of for a home shop is sucking up a piece of metal in the DC system, that then makes a spark on the metal DC impeller, which causes a fire in the pile of dust. So either dont suck up metal, or use a non-metallic impeller.

[@quesohusker]

@@GraemePayne1967Marine Dust exploding is a real thing, but not in a 4-inch PVC pipe. It's the kind of thing that happens in grain elevators.

[@huntz3215]

Great content - did recent upgrade with PVC pipe minimizing use of flex line. in the process found a blockage that the grey flex pipe ridges caused on a bend. All tool stations have a dead zone for dust that gradually builds up, so I fit a 6mm (1/4") air line nozzle to ea station and a single push button by my dust extractor so I can give a pulse of air to dislodge material b4 I turn extractor off.

[@Feathercraft275]

Another solid, entertaining, and informative video. The pointy thing you cut off on the RAS guard is a hold-down used in ripping. You rotate the guard so that thing is about 3/16" above the board to keep the board from lifting. With your dedicated dado approach, you won't need it. Check Tommy Tompkins channel for RAS dust collection. I ditched my big old hood for his approach after I saw how well it works. It's a bit like what you did with the miter saw-- catch it low at the fence and channel it back toward the DC-hose.

[@chrisperry5129]

Love your videos and you crack me up. Working on a set up similar to yours with a miter saw and a radial arm saw on the same wall so thanks for the inspiration.

[@hytekfdm3699]

When are we gonna get more videos from this channel? I LOVE the content over here.

[@Brendan_Keyport-WA7BMK]

Rob: How does the minisplit handle the dust and other crap in the wood shop? Do you have to clear any filters, etc?

[@JasperJanssen]

AFAIK the wood shop doesn’t have a mini split.

[@RyanKlapperich]

@@JasperJanssen He's standing in front of the mini-split @5:08.

[@catfish552]

@@JasperJanssen Installing a minisplit in the wood shop was literally the first video on the channel.

[@TheThomasites]

7:41 Shoots sparks at sawdust. 👍😜

[@jeesjees2]

7:47 Oh the dust and the sparks!!

[@Redsammeh]

Looks really nice! And you actually got it done! Sorry for doubting you!

[@racingfortheson]

I literally laughed out loud when Reginald popped out 🤣🤣

[@BeanJ]

God, I just love you and your channel. Keep it up mate, thank you for all the work you put into this videos!

[@svjness]

It's almost eerie how similar your woodshop progress has been to mine, but different struggles here and there.

[@TheLindsay720]

I just got a jointer too! I spent six months saying I didn’t have room and then one came up cheap. Funny how the good price my made shop bigger...

[@BrandEver117]

When reading about dust collection I saw that the system should be grounded to prevent the rare chance that the static buildup can arc and start a fire. Did you or do you plan to do this?

[@twocvbloke]

Rest in pieces Reginald, all hail Ronald!!! :P

[@nate_0723]

Editing these videos must take as long as the building and filming did. Nice work!

[@mattrobus6293]

Nice work - I like the pipe brackets you made. I'm afraid you'll regret the cheap plastic blast gates - they collect crud that eventually hinder movement and/or prevent full closure. Better to get the blade type gates that are self cleaning. A bit more expensive up front but easier in the long run.

[@Thom101]

simple straight box with a slot in the top to fit your widest blade setup butting to the fence for placing the stock on. or 2 boards at 45 degrees each going back to the collection box coming straight forward /\ .

[@ChristinaGXL]

You just built the best screensaver

[@affromma]

Haven't been following you long, so I may be off base here. If your 'neighbors' are few and far between [like me], I jettisoned the bag/cannister and mounted the blower upstairs in my 2-story shop [aka "finishing area'] with the exhaust through the wall. The trunk line runs across the ceiling with drops at each machine [I have seven that need it]; remote switching. No bags, no cans, far less pressure drop. So, not only do I have a "dust distributor" but also a 'mulch blower'! So, if you can, maybe you should think about mounting [the motor/fan] up on the wall?

[@paulbodiam798]

I have the same style of plastic blast gates in my shop system. Fine dust collects in the bottom of the slider over time, preventing them closing properly. You may regret permanently sealing them in place when you have to dismantle them to scrape out the collected dust. I believe the all-metal variants don't have this problem.

[@randytyner]

You should curve up the floor of the radial arm saw dust inlet. I am betting the dust is hitting the back wall and bounce back out / creating a loop in the airflow. If it was curved you could coerce the dust into the pipe like a kid on a skateboard with a death wish.

[@BaconDanish]

Your workshop now sucks Big time in a good way. I like it. Good job. 😋🎅🏻🎄

[@thorzweegers7616]

I agree with the 2 x 45 degree bends, but, how about..... Instead of 2 x 45 degree joints before the long vertical pipe to the ceiling, use a 45 and a Y-connector. Have the other end of the Y stick down with a short pipe and an screwable end-cap. That way, if any large piece of would gets sucked up, but doesn't make it all the way to the ceiling, you can simply unscrew the end cap to remove it.

[@NotSoGoodGamer18]

Reginald is doing good job

[@rjtumble]

Glad you mentioned the 90's. Are you going to be able to change them out? I'd be interested in seeing an actual difference before & after if you make that swap.

[@dj_doughy]

Gonna ground it? Wood on PVC or PCC can create a lot of static, with dust, that would make a big sawdust boom

[@DIYBuilds]

Not true

[@dj_doughy]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqS6ZX1mbsSFrqM guy shows his setup around 8 min mark. Like he said, its rare it happens, but safer than sorry! You got a lot of nice equipment in there.

[@dannooo548]

@@DIYBuilds Maybe it won't cause a fire but there definitely is a bunch of static. To the point that it can seriously hurt to touch the dust hose unless you ground it. I was using a CNC router with dust collection and either had to ground the hose through myself by constantly holding it while touching the machine table or get a random metal stick to ground the hose before I went in to change out parts on the machine.

[@bobbystanley8580]

I have never had a problem myself

[@windhelmguard5295]

shouldn't be too difficult to connect some wires to the metal cases on his tools which i HOPE are all connected to ground already.

[@simonlunt353]

Good job mr but I think it would have been a good idea for you to either paint the walls or put sterling board up then paint but having said that you do have a great workshop and I always like watching your videos stay safe 👍👏

[@benhash6089]

The little part you cut off the radial arm saw is for anti kick back when ripping with the saw

[@mitchese1]

"For reasons unknown" on the radial arm saw ... you can loosen the cover and rotate it downwards. That former piece of metal should have glided (glidden?) along the top of wood while you're ripping it. Forces the wood to stay down on the table while you push it through.

[@NomadMakes]

I love the your humor in these videos ;D How do you feel about that Ryobi pin nailer by the way? It is somewhere down there on my wish list.

[@8bits59]

You slipped another Phil Collins drum fill in at 5:00! Is there one in all your videos?

[@ukmud6218]

The sticky outy bit is to help stop the chips going everywhere like they are doing. Doh

[@mariushegli]

I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.

[@jimquinty5378]

food for thought I have a harbor collector with the supper dust dep. cyclone. so the cyclone is 6 that goes into the suction with a 5 reducer. a 5 and coming out is a 5 would be your main trunk line. think before you decide to much reducing

[@travisphelan8307]

This is the video I've been waiting for!!

[@edmundsdemonds8309]

For the Radial Arm saw, would a superior solution be to have a hood scoop-type thing which deflects all the chips downwards into a box under the table, which you could hook up to the dust collector?

[@grantdavies6081]

Great post. You mentioned you blast gates would open when the tool is on, are you planning on making those blast gates "auto" or will you be buying the $$$ auto blast gates ? I did my original system on the cheap and will be re-doing when I move my wood shop to a new garage, and will be borrowing some of your ideas, thanks for the video, love the ironic humor too!

[@tonyhawkins8183]

Another great video, thank you for making it... One question, any idea what the m3 of air flow your extractor is? Trying to plan my own piped system.......

[@danielwgk]

Install a wedge in the bottom-back corner of the radial arm saw dust collector box. That should help a lot.

[@grumblycurmudgeon]

Actually, if you REALLY wanna optimize for airflow: Do away with the fittings entirely. Cap the pipe, then fill it with sand that's you've baked to about 220º.at that temp, after about 45 seconds, the pipe will go flacid, like a cooked noodle. You can bend it (the sand will keep it from kinking), stretch it, widen or narrow it, even MAKE fittings with it. You need about 75lb of sand to totally fill an 8' pipe. The way I handled it: First, flare ONE end of each pipe (during installation, this will be the side facing AWAY from the airflow direction) To do this, take a block of wood (6x6, 4 2x4s, a stack of 4.5" plywood scraps) approximately 4.25x4.25x8. Cut/carve/turn/mill in you mechanism of choice to a conical shape along the longest dimension, the narrowest bit being about a half inch smaller than the pipe's starting ID and that widens to the starting OD. Aim for 4" of overlap. Jam it in one end, pour about 20lb of your hot sand into the other, then stand it up on end. The pipe will soften and flare. Wet the outside of the pipe with cool water and it will reharden. You can now connect multiple lengths together, and the inside lacks the sharp ledges fittings provide. Even better, because it's a gradual flare, you don't need to cement it, or silicone it, or use screws to get a tight seal. Personally, I used a 2' length to connect each of the 8' lengths, in case I ever needed to affect repairs or swap out a section. Once you've got them all flared, BEND them using the same technique into their final shapes: in this case, cap the unflared end of the pipe (I suggest using what're called "cleanout fittings" which is basically a end cap with a screw-in bung), fill it with sand, and bend 'em into the sweeping curves you want. Once you hit your angle. unscrew the cleanout bung and let the sand fall into a 5gal bucket. Its heating source now removed, the pipe will reharden into the new shape. What about splitters? Easy. Don't use em. The reducers you have are fine. Smart, even, since I see you tried to sum them up to 4 (though, brief aside: you need 4-5 2" pipes to equal the airflow of 1 4". Think a 2x2 grid. Your double splitter sander station is the right idea). But 4" splitters? Every fitted joint is a point of ~potential~ (likely) air loss and failure. Worse, every branch means there's a bunch of dead line still being drawn into vacuum, since your blast gates are at the MACHINE instead of the COLLECTOR. If they're at the collector, you have a central hub with all your gates in one place (WAY easier to automate, too, btw). With the money you save in the fittings, RUN MORE PIPE and do as much as is feasible on the ceiling. I have five 4" lines that all fit into the lid of a 55gal rain barrel (chip separation "hub"), itself stacked atop a second drum (cyclone chip collector), both hard piped directly into the dust collector. Takes up very little footprint, and is anchored to the wall in a stack about 6' tall (so running the pipe to the ceiling was easy) with the outlet at ground level (where the dust collector's is). Since the drums already have airtight toggle clamp lids, to empty you just flip the toggle and the barrel drops out the bottom, leaving the rest of the system in place. Best part is, to automate the system, you need a single step rotator motor. Mount a disc on it with a rounded notch cut into it. Add a spring to each blast gate that makes it "want" to open, but is held shut by the edge of the disc. When a given line needs opening, rotate the disc so it "points" to the right gate, the spring for which will snap it open. Dust collection is ALL about overcoming air resistance. The more distance you have to travel? More resistance (so all those "inert" branches of dead air that are gated at the machine? Add those in. The venturi effect still make the air IN those branches circulate. Test it; you'll see). Each non-smooth surface inside the duct? More resistance (like when two pipes are in a coupler: you get clogs and buildup from the pipe "facing" the DC AND resistance). Sharp turns, ANY air leaks, and, worst offender of all, those damn flexihoses. Short lengths of them are unavoidable; I get that. But they should BE as short as humanly possible, and never, ever connected to the active branch unless the PRIMARY air stream is moving through 'em. The ideal system is one in which the tool you're ACTIVELY USING has a direct, unbroken, hardline connection to the DC. Now, obviously that's not feasible in any shop I've ever seen, shy of installing a collector PER MACHINE (and screw THAT cost), but if you try to optimize for all those other characteristics, you'll see what I'm saying here makes real sense.

[@chrismoore9997]

The part you cut off the radial arm saw is for holding the wood down when you are using the saw to rip. Doesn't look like you are planning to do any rip cuts, so you are probably safe enough.

[@purpleapple4052]

Reginald reminds me of the flour bag "Mr. Happy Sacks" from the "everything wrong with the Porsche 944" Aging Wheels video

[@JohnRunyon]

10:50 just make it bigger and stick the hose going to the dust collector on the bottom.

[@SidebandSamurai]

I really love your videos. Since you compress your videos down how long did it take to complete the dust collection project?

[@johncrone4047]

Your videos always make my day, keep up the fantastic work, also hi Reginald

[@paulheitkemper1559]

Take some of those massive Patreon dollars and go buy a Sharpie. Reginald needs to make a comeback.

[@nickstoliaroff324]

Dude this is so NEAT! Teach me!

[@shotgunj1]

Make a vortex bin and then vent pipe out side nothing leave building but super fine dust.i did one best thing i ever did then I chopped up cheep vacuum with auto start,took the auto part off made a plug line so when u turn tool on its auto going over 3 years 2hp dust extraction and 5 hp table saw and spindle moulder

[@shotgunj1]

Oh it costs fucking dam near nothing just some decking about

[@David-hm9ic]

Venting a dust collector to the outside is not a good solution. My shop is about 400 sq ft and the dust collector would remove the cooled/heated air in about 3 minutes. The air has to be returned to the room if there is climate control.

[@vanmanmarc]

Is it not easier to build a box for the router that vents into the saw box so you can use the same pipe for both machines and not have loads of flexible pipe lying around the shop.

[@PoLoMoTo2]

Is there any concern of static build up in the PVC starting a fire?

[@Spectral_Penguin]

Nope. Static build up in a small system like this is unlikely to be significant.

[@windhelmguard5295]

@@Spectral_Penguin i don't know i have seen a fire start from much less.

[@photonashville]

Get a Wynn canister filter, it will DOUBLE your actual CFM at each tool. I've upgraded my main line to sewer pipe, added an Oneida cyclone top to my 30 gallon drum but the single biggest improvement was adding a Wynn canister filter to my Jet 1100 series dust collector. I used an anemometer to take readings at each improvement, went from a range of 240-300 CFM at the four tool ports to 600 CFM at five tool ports, all on 4” pipe and flex hose.

[@rhuynh]

So that is an improvement over the bag? What if I take the bag off and vent outside ( not conditioned room, is a leaky garage :-) ). Would that Wynn still be a big improvement over that?

[@photonashville]

@@rhuynh The bag's primary purpose is to filter the dusty air as it goes back into the shop, air we breathe. But the negative about the filter is that it has huge resistance to air flow because of the small surface area. A canister filter has 10-15x more surface area of filtration so resistance is dramatically reduced for cleaner air. Reduced resistance makes for greater CFM up to a point. If you vent the dust collector outside instead of using any filter, then there should be no air flow resistance and no dusty air being returned into the shop. But you would also be losing huge amounts of air from inside the shop that needs to be brought back in. In good weather that's fine but in cold weather or hot weather you are taking out your indoor air temp which is wasteful if the shop is heated or cooled as needed.

[@Charile2077]

A piece of flex tubing that rides with the radial arm saw might be the way to go

[@austinfusilier5114]

Love your videos. Keep up the great work:

[@HeikosGarage]

No blast gate for the router?

[@hollandduck79]

Hello . maybe run a bare copper wire through your tubes and attach it to a ground point against statistical electrical in the dust extractor. this also prevents the risk of a dust explosion in your system. but is mainly to promote the flow in the extraction. because dust does not stick to the inside of the pipeline because of the static. it's just an idea and cheap insurance. with kind regards Hollandduck from the Netherlands