Adding sound deadening pads to cut the noise of your Land Rover!

[@spitfiremk1uk]

Many moons ago whilst I was an apprentice My father worked as a test engineer for a large truck company. He borrowed some sound testing equipment which we used to test sound deadening and sound proofing. I split these two into different approaches to keeping cab noise to a minimum. Sound deadening as you are fitting works great at preventing "Panel Drumming" it also removes the transmission of high frequency noise. Sound deadening is fitted to the inside of the car. Instead of using your sticky panels I now use spray on Stone Chip which dries properly and has to be chipped off. I spray the inside of the entire roof panels, door panels etc. A landy enthusiast now makes molded heavy rubber kits for the inside of the cab compartment. (He used to make them for JCB and are now used by the entire military fleet) These are sold as "Mark Wright sound proofing kits". You show the "best bang for buck/effort" method for sure but I know ALL panels should be covered and is always effective at reducing noise. Sound proofing is aimed at preventing noise reaching metal panels which can be transmitted around the entire body. The rubber rocker cover keeps noise away from the bulkhead, Heavy rubber engine blankets work great. Foam sponge was used on Jaguars above the gearbox for noise reduction. Stone chip sprayed under ALL panels, wheel arches, wing panels, bulkhead and under floors works brilliantly. It is perfectly possible to cruise at 70mph and have an easy conversation if sound proofing is done completely. In short, deaden all panels, prevent noise reaching the panels and fit as much trim as is possible. BTW the single most effective piece of sound reducing you can fit to a petrol land rover series is a transmission tunnel carpet. For Tdi it is the rocker cover panel. I use heavy sticky backed composite foam for my bulkhead sound reduction these days. scontent-lht6-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/993816_10152488154722576_1337496013_n.jpg?_nc_cat=100&_nc_eui2=AeEYH_bv6jQPcne71Sh_503pEdk6XvY7elLPPhvjir65A_L-Ti2iAKL76iFbqzXuVtpo4NDwmdT7vAbhGlDQD5ValVKUhXcyhLAIO4EONvjU0Q&_nc_ht=scontent-lht6-1.xx&oh=bb8fb94eae234bd4b137da00747fd00e&oe=5CFC770F

[@aytonbob]

spitfiremk1uk you can get lead blanket for the gear box and a cover for the engine from Noise Killers.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Sorry but no. I have tried them and they make bugger all difference apart from emptying your wallet! the bell housing cover is a waste of time also

[@spitfiremk1uk]

@@aytonbob I havent tried these items yet. I use thick sponge foam soaked in waxoil as per Jaguar under the transmission tunnel and almost any cover over the tunnel, seat box and middle seat helps with noise. Getting rid of the high pitch transfer box whine is the hard bit. Maybe a lead/rubber blanket wold hit this spot?

[@spitfiremk1uk]

@@BritannicaRestorations You tried the lead blanket and engine cover from noise killers? A customer very many years ago had a series 3 fitted with a swiss noise reduction kit from landrover. It really did seems quiet. I do like to use sound deadening under the bonnet. And I can tell whether or not the landrover rubber rocker cover is fitted to tdi or not. I use sticky backed, foam with a silver heat reflection layer for inside doors, under the bonnet and bulkhead in appropriate areas. You can seal the edges with a little waxoil clear. www.ebay.co.uk/i/252376922316?chn=ps&var=551223983776 This kinda stuff.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I had a customer with the lead blanket - swore it made a huge difference, however after a service here and me forgetting to put it back on, he drove 250km home and never noticed a difference - didn't believe it was missing There was a minor issue with over heating in summer He had the bell housing one also but that would never stay in place on the taper of the housing

[@MrRobmellor]

If I want to keep the noise down in my 110, I don't let the wife get in, or if she gets in I tell her to shut-up. Works every time, silence is golden. best wishes from ( a quiet )Yorkshire Rob.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Nice one Rob!

[@andrewsmith1606]

I don't need sound deadening, 5yrs of driving about in my Landy has made me deaf 😂👍

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Try 30 years of bone rattling fun! lol Mike

[@eburn71]

thanks Mike, just started mine few weeks back and i like the idea of the inside of the wheel well!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I am thinking of doing the front wings on the inside too = anything to stop the drumming

[@ChibabaDave]

I've just done my 109 series 3 with a mix of dodomat, kilmat and amazons own brand. Made a terrific difference. I also doubled it up in places an added some thicker soundinsulation in places. got it down from 90+DB to about 78. Hoping a new exhaust finishes it off.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Good stuff!

[@stuartdenty3163]

That's great Mike. Much to learn for our own rebuilds. Thank you.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks Stuart - that's why I do these for you guys

[@PillSharks]

Nice work mike, I bet that will make a massive difference.... I opened the bonnet up on our genuine county 90 we’ve owned for 30 plus years the other day as it’s been kept in my garage for years, I only wanted to spray some WD40 over it like I do every year and I noticed all the felt based sound deadening I put on in the late 90s... it’s all fallen down on top the engine and has made a hell off a mess! From memory it didn’t make a blind bit of difference quietening down that old 2.5 NA diesel!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I have never used that stuff for years - I think they still make it though Mike

[@PillSharks]

Britannica Restorations Ltd If they do I wouldn’t use it with what’s on the market now... saying that I did my 200 tdi defender with some cheap crap stuff I bought from Poland, what a mistake that was! Watching this makes me want to get my old county back on the road!

[@MrRobmellor]

Another great video, keep up the good work Mike. Best of luck from Yorkshire Rob.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Thanks Rob

Hi Mike 🤔 grand job Mike been there done that too.and now I can here the radio too don't have it on full blast 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I wonder why they didn't put anything in from the factory? MIke

[@BritishBeachcomber]

When a supplier sees a Defender (or boat) owner the price instantly goes up 4x. I should know, I've got both 😂😂🤪

[@andicog]

You can take the drumming out of external panels by using spray on body sealer as used on body joints on the new Audi and VW, think very very thick body shcultz, won't be affected by the weather and will protect the panels from stones as well. Keep up the good work Mike, all the best from a grey Liverpool.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

best applied before paint! I have tried to get the factory stuff but all we can get here is stone chip - not as thick

[@andicog]

@@BritannicaRestorations You can leave it unpainted, usually it light grey but you need a special gun to apply it, not a usual underseal/shcutz gun. Stays like a hard rubber, think of spraying Sikoflex.

[@iang4817]

What's the name in the UK of this stuff?

[@customdesignperformance6641]

Mike, you should tap from outside, sound travel through the pad to get dampen to inside

[@nolann3815]

Dude you crack me up, I'm gonna give these a go for my Mustang as well, they look great

[@thomaswykes3647]

I use self adhesive flashband stuff from builders merchants. Thin, dense and really sticky (unlike me of course) - ideal stuff for sound deadening. Pretty cheap too. It's a job for the summer though as in winter the glue isn't so good

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Good idea - we do not have that here - as you can see my shop is 20c but I still warmed up the pads to give them an extra stick! Mike

[@nickuk1978]

Really like that idea. Nice tip Thomas!

[@darland3821]

I use that stuff too Thomas. Seems to work pretty well and as you say relatively inexpensive. I fitted mine in winter and used a hot air gun to pre warm each panel and the flash band.

[@landexta4994]

i used it (flashband) on a 130 on a 2 year trip around africa - use heat/ primer - no problems even with heat BUT underside/ back of legs ano problem -resorted to towels etc but calfs/ knees well done by late AM after that it was door open provided nothing about.!! or 2nd degree burns Any suggestions for heat insulation. I did try same stuff plus had HD foam backed carpet liner sets ( Wright Off Road) now sold by others under different name and retrofitted by military in last upgrades but still not nice!¬

[@popcornlover948]

Mike can you do a more in-depth video on how you got rid of the dents before you painted I saw you used the sand blaster but didn’t quite get it but looks like you had amazing results I think it’s one of land rovers biggest problems love what you do please keep it coming :))

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Go on my channel home page and type in paint in the search - I think you will find what you are looking for - and my Raccoon! Mike

[@popcornlover948]

Britannica Restorations Ltd I’m trying to make my way through all your videos can’t believe what I’ve learnt already thank you :))

[@aytonbob]

Noise Killers bo a lot of kits for various Landrovers in the UK.

[@GrumpsBarn]

...it's Friday, it's 5 O'clock and it's Crackerjack!....bloody hell, you make me feel my age!!! :)

[@888johnmac]

lol, most people younger than me ( 45years old ) won't get that reference

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I actually have a real Blue Peter badge! Mike

[@philhealey449]

Send for Peter Glaze !

[@mickmorgan5104]

I always wonder in the heat of summer and blistering sunlight on the roof, if it dose not fall off . TAKE CARE, MIKE. cheers Mick.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

we will see!

[@nickuk1978]

Maybe use a cordless drill and just set that running and sit it on the roof? Might be more repeatable a test. Great vid though, thanks again Mike! Need to compile your door gaps videos before I have a go at getting mine right finally (they're genuinely awful at the moment!)

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I thought of all sorts but didn't want to damage the paint

[@stefanthomas438]

Hi Mike, I use Alubutyl in my 84 OneTen. It is nearly the same like you use, but you have to cut it by your own while it comes on a roll in different length. Cheers Stefan

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Do you get different thicknesses? Mike

[@stefanthomas438]

@@BritannicaRestorations You can get it in 2mm or 2,5mm thickness

[@davelozinger1780]

Timely video, Mike, as my 110 is in a similar state as yours while I'm waiting for a new electrical harness. *One question*...what do you recommend *underneath* the seat box? I'm currently tearing it down, repainting, and adding new battery box, and need to line the underside. Proud to be one of your Patreons!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Dave - I am going to use the same stuff= I used 50 sq feet on the and ran out!! Mike

[@davelozinger1780]

@@BritannicaRestorations Thanks Mike!

[@itolond]

Butyl alum based sheet, paint on sound deadener or self adhesive HDPM foam?

[@BritannicaRestorations]

The stick on mats worked very well - better than expected!

[@georgemoore5139]

What decibel meter app did you use Mike?

[@bigm383]

There used to be car insulation called EZ cool which was American. Probably the same sort of stuff, closed cell, polyethylene, three ml thick. People used to rave about it. A bloke in the Australian Citroen club did a semi- scientific assessment, and claimed about a twenty degree celcius difference using two layers. I just went looking for it on the interwebnet. The company has closed down, but the product is available at carinsulation.com. I don't have any connection with them, but this may be another less expensive option. Any of theses products would have to be better than water holding jute or felt.

[@BittnerBuddenbrock]

sound deadening is one thing, insulation against cold and humidity is an other one! Insulation needs to be total cover!Correct me if you think I am wrong - I know you will have a good reason and explain it if you don't agree with me

[@BritannicaRestorations]

There are very few here who drive their Land Rovers in winter 1) very cold 2) lot of salt on the roads - after spending a lot of money of restoration they do not want to get the salt back in (and also risk of accidents on icy roads in winter)

[@nobletrout]

i've been trying to figure out what that stuff is under the carpet. mine is all roached out.

[@terrygribb9185]

I quite like the noise.

[@chrismiller9740]

Mike, does anyone make sound deadening for the inner bulkhead? My original material has degenerated, if not, wonder if the kill at could be used to quietennthe bulkhead area and keep cabin a bit cooler? Tnx

[@1977Timp]

Sound proof on the cheap: don't use Dynamite that sound proof is stupid expensive.. the material is basically a tar layer with aluminium foil on top and you will pay only for the logo... In Italy I used to go to a hardware store specialized on house refurbishing there you can buy really cheap sticky tiles with various sizes even a 10 meter roll. I used to make HiFi stereos during the 90's .. it works great!!

[@1977Timp]

The sound proof materia or the tar tile basically take off the metal wobbling noise..

[@1977Timp]

Also it's not really necessary to go very near all the door frame.. it can have 1 or 2 cm gap in between..

[@bcatz454]

Yo bad idea especially on Landies to put this on. Moisture and water gets trapped on the ledges of the panel and starts rusting. Happened on my truck where the mats accelerated rusting.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

These were only on aluminium

[@harveysmith100]

When you have badge engineering going on, let's say a Golf and an Audi A3. With the exception of some fancy trim, this is what makes the Audi seem better. Just more sound deadening. However, a Defender is never going to be a Range Rover

[@BritannicaRestorations]

You would have thought they would have made the effort to put something in the Defender - after all, they were not cheap off the production line

[@harveysmith100]

@@BritannicaRestorations We have had this conversation before, this it what happens when men who couldn't put an Ikea bookcase together end up running engineering companies or car companies. The Japanese have a word called Kaisen, it is more a philosophy than a work. It means constant small improvements. I was watching you repair a bulkhead the other day on a Defender, I was thinking, how old is that bulkhead design, when was the last time it was improved? 40 years ago? It breaks my heart. They have been promising a new Defender since the 90's! New Defender, they couldn't even manage a bit of sound deadening. Rant over.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

That is worth a video in itself

[@boazonline4888]

Incredible price difference!

[@jackmartin9008]

I hope this guy doesn't charge labour by the hour, he's had this Same green defender for months

[@jackmartin9008]

having said that iv just realise, I wonder if the owner watches there videos hmm...

[@BritannicaRestorations]

That why I may 75% of my videos - to show customers

[@jackmartin9008]

it's a great idea, I wish my garage made youtube videos, their bills are huge and I don't even see what they've done half the time. @@BritannicaRestorations

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Some jobs like finding out why the fuel gauge is so inaccurate took a while to figure out and now the customer know I was not adding time on - also good for covering your backside if some problems occur

[@jackmartin9008]

can't wait for the cab sound deadening video you've saved me thousands already I was fully intending on using dynamat but now I know about killmat and noico. @@BritannicaRestorations

[@johnmcgonigal8533]

Dose this help stop condensation on the inside of the roof and stop me getting dripped on in the morning when I get in to my defender 90

[@BritannicaRestorations]

Not sure John - as this has a roof lining to go in - there will be an air space between the liner and metal roof - you may need a foam based sound deadener- this will have air pockets in and stop direct contact of warm air to the cold metal I used closed cell foam in my 130 and it worked fine - no condensation at all Mike www.amazon.ca/Noico-Waterproof-Insulation-Self-Adhesive-Deadening/dp/B07FYLM47D/ref=pd_sbs_263_4/132-4698441-6943929?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07FYLM47D&pd_rd_r=803a39f7-2184-11e9-a390-79d8b511e885&pd_rd_w=EEd9P&pd_rd_wg=piEsX&pf_rd_p=d4c8ffae-b082-4374-b96d-0608daba52bb&pf_rd_r=GJRWQB7FCRB16C9HDTWY&psc=1&refRID=GJRWQB7FCRB16C9HDTWY

[@johnmcgonigal8533]

Britannica Restorations Ltd thanks mike ,that was a quick response 😂

[@harveysmith100]

Yes is the simply answer to that. It will reduce condensation but perhaps not as much as you would like.

[@johnmcgonigal8533]

Harvey Smith cheers I’ll give it a go

[@MAMDAVEM]

It would if you put adhesive closed cell foam on top of the sound deadening ( for example Dodo Liner)

[@christopherastbury-mg2iz]

knock...knock... who's there....

[@r3ndszergazda]

I wonder if this promotes corrosion (sucks in water or moist) or doesn’t matter.

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I have had no experience of it and if fastened correctly there should be no capacity for water ingress A good tip is to heat the panels before rolling out - and I thought the roller was a gimmick but it really helps Mike

[@r3ndszergazda]

Britannica Restorations Ltd Thanks! They sure look promising!

[@BritannicaRestorations]

I have to admit I was impressed how the 1.5 mm cut so much drumming on the panels - I think a good bang for your buck Mike

[@eliotspencer9212]

I sound proofed my land rover by replacing the oil with water