Addressing Your Questions and Common Drill Issues.

Thanks for the great Questions!

[@ChickenLips412]

Back in the early 80’s, I had this instructor who taught me all he knew about drills, parade grounds, etc. I have a question… oops never mind, wrong type of drills.

[@klepper00]

I work for an Aircraft Manufacturer for 32 year and that’s the way they taught us to drill . Pulling the trigger with middle finger and your pointer finger along side of the drill . I’ve heard in WW2 they used these electric drills , now everything is pneumatic .

[@upsidedowndog1256]

My grandpa used the electric drills building C-47s. He always loved to talk about the exploding blind fasteners they used then.

[@alansmith4734]

I saw an idea to use if you are using a tiny drill bit that won't grip in the chuck. Take an empty ink tube section from a Bic Pen. Insert the drill bit into the ink tube, acting like a sleeve. Insert it into the chuck and tighten it up! Voila!

[@craigburgher6097]

Hows it going im 14 years old and I love restoring tools for Christmas I restord a pair of plires for my grandpa

[@ScoutCrafter]

Craig- Send me a pic of one of your restorations that you did! 😃👍. [e-mail]

[@craigburgher6097]

@@ScoutCrafter do you have a Facebook page

[@lordvengerx]

Great questions everyone! This drill knowledgeable stuff. I'm telling ya Scout you could teach classes and courses! You explain everything so well.

[@OldSneelock]

Thanks for the shout out John. I have a couple Milwaukee tools with the detachable cord. Considering that most people didn't do major projects with electric tools the smaller current draw, plain bearing, drills were such a step up from egg beater drills that everyone of them was a thing of pride. I just thought of why it would be good to push on the center of the drill body rather than the handle. Pushing straight down the length of the armature would prevent putting a side load on the drill bit. That would help avoid the point skidding around and also prevent snapping the smaller drill bits when the operator inevitably tried pushing harder to get a dull bit to cut. 😁😎

[@lewiemcneely9143]

10/4 on the Milwaukee stuff! A-PLUS!

[@rawbacon]

Dad gave me a Craftsman Drill for Christmas when I was a little kid (First Power Tool) 2.8 amps variable speed (Still Have It Today) and that is underpowered in my opinion........My Bosch Drill is 5.5 amps basically twice as much.......The problem with a lot of the old drills was not enough power and single speed........I almost always hold a drill with my index finger on the side and operate the trigger with my middle, I like to have the pushing force as much in line as possible, just feels right to me.

[@andrewtaylor7377]

That's exactly right, ideally your palm goes directly behind the drill bit so that you have better control while applying pressure.

[@chuckmays3857]

You are correct with using the middle finger for the trigger on shorter drills. Remember most of the workers were using the heavier style work gloves, some were leather, and the grip was much better. Great show!

[@terryrogers1025]

Went in to this bar, bartender-- “whata have”?-- me-- “I’ll have beer and my friends Black and Decker , over there, set Em up with 3 fingers of Super Lube, I can’t afford more than that”!!!!!!🙄😁🥴😉 As always good content love the information you pass along. Looking forward to the next video.

[@ianbutler1983]

In my (admittedly limited) experience, the runout in a drill press is caused by the chuck, not the shaft. I bet if you pulled the chuck you'd find the shaft runout to be minimal. You're right about pulling and reseating sometimes helping a bit, but the real solution is a premium quality chuck. Easy fix, but not a cheap one. Love the channel, thanks for the work you do on it, I have learned a lot.

[@chrissplace392]

"Never assume they did it correctly" so true, had an electrician in my house this week (I don't do electrical on anything that I can't unplug) - he found 1 circuit that part way down the run connected the hot wire to the ground. He was speechless.

[@tonylenge424]

Thanks for answering all those questions. It is helpful and enjoyable.

[@lotsabirds]

Happy Monday! You remind me of one of my uncles. He knew everything about every tool he owned, and he had a ton of them. I really enjoy it when you get into the details on tools! Great Job again!

[@jpsimon206]

Forgive me, but I am going to present one of the alternate grease opinions. Grease is wonderful for gearboxes and gear trains. Most modern drill drivers use synthetic gears in a sealed gearbox. There is no part of a drill outside of the gears that needs grease. Bearings perform more accurately with oil. Only dielectric grease should be used on motors. Back bearings often make more sense to grease because of the lack of access. In general, grease attracts grit. Metallic grit and grease is a very effective abrasive. If you have easy access, consider using oil for non-meshing moving parts such as bearings. Many older electric motors have oil cups above plain bearings. These work excellently and quietly, but they must be kept oiled. Nothing running plain bearings(old machines) should ever be greased, only oil. These are tiny details, I completely agree with you John on the generalities.

[@ScoutCrafter]

Excellent points JP!

[@ihrescue]

I like learning from these videos in addition to seeing the life given to vintage tools.

[@toolrestoration]

Thanks for the grease explainarion John , so many people wouldn't know how much .

[@gailmcgarry5852]

"Common sense"....hahahahaha - don't see too much of that these days. Great video!

[@saigaking]

Ha ha as you know common sense isn’t that common great knowledge given scout I’m learning so much I love god bless take care 👍🙏🗽🇺🇸😎

[@robdy72]

Thank you for taking the time to go more indepth on these drills and teaching us more about them.

[@kathieharine5982]

Thanks for the info.

[@Resto-Rob]

Great information! Thanks!

[@nmhbrooklands]

Every day a school day, love these chatty videos!

[@57WillysCJ]

Super Lube is great synthetic grease. I have used it for years on fine threads. You have to hold those small drills like a 1911. :) I wonder if some of the smaller gripped ones were made for youth and women although there are a lot of us short people out there that were gifted with hands for fine work. Funny I like short cords but not stubby ones. I espeacially don't care for them on a circular saw. It catches when ripping a long board and I don't want the chord around my neck like one for a Tig. Then again it might be just personal comfort.

[@RRINTHESHOP]

You have a very nice collection of old drill motors. Merry Christmas John.

[@bobwhelk2117]

Excellent video!!! Best one I’ve seen on KZbin in recent memory.

[@DonnySimpanero]

This is priceless knowledge and info. Thanks again scout for schooling us youngins. I’d love to see you at 100k subscribers maybe even a million one day. Bless you and I wish a very happy holiday for you and your family!

[@zipshed]

Great tips and all good to know and learn...thanks John!

[@unwired1281]

Thanks Scout!

[@RobertSiwik1968]

Excellent video !

[@Jim-ie6uf]

Merry Christmas, John

[@SkyForgeVideos]

Man you are doing amazing with these uploads SC! What a wealth of information! Can't wait to see more about drills!

[@jackthompson2132]

Very good video! Thank You for taking your time to explain things like this to us.

[@davidfinn3771]

Great info 👍

[@patjohnson3100]

Very useful drill information. Since I'm working on a few oldies myself, I especially like the info on cords and internal wiring. One of my drills has a bad switch and I'll have to see where I can find a replacement. I also always wondered why drill handles were so short. I attributed it to the notion that designers and manufacturers just didn't think much about ergonomics back in the day. Thanks

[@patrickomalley7460]

Great video John thanks 😊

[@mikecurtis2585]

Great information always helpful. Thanks 😊 🙏

[@kevinbrassil9836]

Thanks ScoutCrafter good info.

[@paulsworkshop4179]

Great lessons today. I agree with your idea on how those old drills were gripped. Can’t wait for Wednesday’s episode.

[@lotsatrains]

Great information well appreciated and I have the same Harbor Freight drill press and was pretty surprised that it’s not really that bad I’ve never checked mine but always seems pretty good.

[@philparker1666]

Fascinating video as always Scoutcrafter 👍👍🇺🇸🇬🇧

[@joeheilm]

I struggle with the way i hold my modern drills, i always feel like i am blocking the cooling fan port. Great lessons. Cheers

[@jpsimon206]

I believe you mentioned this two videos ago, but because you were addressing TIR, I thought it was worth mentioning. It is very easy to get small chips in the chuck. A literal dust speck of metal is enough to cause as much as 10,000 of runout. Chucks need to be cleaned and oiled somewhat regularly. The specific point I wanted to address was the most common size of chucks, often found on consumer drill presses, it is possible to reassemble them out of order. On some models, this is difficult to detect besides TIR. Every three jaw chuck has a specific position for each jaw. They should be numbered and engraved. If they are not put back in the exact same order, you will have problems. When you finish reassembling a chuck, close it all the way by the hand. All of the jaws should form a relatively flat plane. This is how you know it is correct. One other observation, I don't know this to be fact, I have noticed that chucks that are threaded tend to be slightly lower quality. I believe these are mostly used on drill drivers where it is less important. Chucks that have Jacob's tapers are traditionally better quality. This may be only a reflection of age, I do not know. If somebody is brand new to a drill, they would be far better advised to start with a keyed chuck. Most drill drivers have keyless chucks. These are wonderfully convenient, not as good of a choice for a drill press. There are a few subtleties to keyless chucks that make the education easier with a keyed one. Very similar to mastering stick welding prior to taking up MIG or TIG, it is much easier to master the principles on the simpler version. The last comment I have is regarding drill bits with flats or hex shanks. These are very often cast or the flats are quickly created on a grinder. If you choose to use these, better quality is worth it. The cast hex shanks are rather soft and will conform, the round shanks with flats are excellent, but if the flats are not exactly 120° from each other, these will damage your chuck irreversibly. If you're not sure of the quality, stick to round shanks. Never clamp the drill bit on the flutes, always above. No exceptions.

[@ScoutCrafter]

Excellent Post JP- 99% of people will have no issue with 10 thou run out. It’s only until you start machining or metalworking do you appreciate accuracy. 😃👍

[@jpsimon206]

@@ScoutCrafter oh I make this mistake every time. I meant to say 10x .001 I always forget the last THS

[@357magdad]

Excellent Q&A episode!👍

[@johnkelley9877]

That was very helpful. You answered a lot of questions I had. Thanks for making this follow up tutorial.

[@bobbyw9046]

SC, Another excellent fix for run-out is to go on ebay and buy a made in USA Jacob's Super Chuck (used but as new or in excellent condition) and a new USA made Morse Taper. Between the two, 90% of the run out is eliminated in my experience. I have a 25 year old MSC floor model Drill Press (Taiwan made) and when I changed out the original Chuck and Morse Taper with new old stock Super Chuck and actual Morse Taper my run-out (measured with a Starrett Gauge) went down to .0015". For an imported Drill Press that's pretty impressive! OK - the 14N Super Chuck and Morse taper cost me almost as much as the DP itself, but NOW I can dill super accurate holes! The entire package including the DP was under $600 and for super accurate holes I consider that a bargain! Just make sure NOT to buy a beat up used Chuck and get a NEW Morse Taper. Clean the inside of the spindle and the Taper with Acetone before installing and like you correctly stated, sometimes changing the positioning does help.

[@ScoutCrafter]

Bobby- I remember when looking for my drill press I didn't know then what I know now and price was a big factor. If I ever get to moving from here I will buy all new machines and have a whole different criteria list! Thanks!

[@daviddibella9432]

Very useful information, thanks for sharing.

[@jeffsem1254]

My name is Jeff you do great job on tools man you are awesome hopefully I will meet you Sunday

[@ricaropie260]

was attacked by a patinaboys today posted a Restoration of a rheostat on the local tool forum and was told i ruined it by repainting the thing but now when they attack me i keep seeing that patinaboy picture you keep showing hahahah love it thanks for the support against patina boys

[@ScoutCrafter]

You can put me in a room full of very rare (Brown) tools and I won't be impressed, however show me a few tools restored to their original finish and I will be like a kid in a candy store...

[@ricaropie260]

@@ScoutCrafter me too nobody makes tools to look dirty the thing i restored had a brass bar marking the ohms en it was covered in black paint thats not patina thats overpaint lol

[@ROD59]

John, by the way you hold those drills i can tell you know your way in the range , excellent video

[@scroungasworkshop4663]

Great tutorial Scout. Some very good questions and equally good answers. Cords have always been an issue for me. Eg, I have a top of their range Metabo grinder and the power cord is three meters/ 10’ long which is way to long for what I need. I have been saying to Lea for years I wish that appliances and tools came with no cord just a universal plug slot or hole something like a computer slot so people could buy their own cords. That way you could buy cords the length you need, they could be colour coordinated, curly or straight and it would save manufacturers a fortune in supplying cords with different plugs to suit different countries. Festool also have removable plugs like Milwaukee. It would just take one manufacturer to make the change and all the others will follow just like Apple not supplying chargers. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺

[@ScoutCrafter]

So true Stuart! Thanks!

[@peterjames2580]

Nice drill class!

[@tonysheerness2427]

Short handles on drills force you to move your hand up and cover the vents making their life shorter as they over heat.

[@toolscarriagesmodellbauand7246]

Shortening the cables of Drilsl and such seems for me to be a very good idea. I'll do it.

[@upsidedowndog1256]

Depending on my drill (most are pnuematic) the way you showed is exactly how I hold them. When drilling thousand of rivets and holes it helps reduce fatigue.

[@not2fast4u2c]

Yep that was the B & D drill I got from Roadking Has an odd flush mount plug on the cord Came off some computer stuff

[@veiledmarksman6762]

Those were some great questions and answers! I wonder if the short handle on the consumer drill was just to save a little more on production cost?

[@troymilleraz]

👍

[@mftmachining]

John, the grip-thing is easy to explain. When you grip the machine on the back where it is supposed to, you push right on the axle of it . This gives you much more straight and precise drill operations than the longer handle ones. and when u have to drill 20 or more holes its less fatiguing. This better precision is the same reason why spade-handle drills are built. P.S....i´m still searching for a B&D spade drill machine of the black series, here in Europe. Built in 86 to 92 in England. Best they ever built.

[@805ROADKING]

Sounds like your Canadian Buddy might have needed a new chuck, it only take one job helicoptering off the table into the post eh!! Replacement chucks are cheap, show your buddies how to change one!!☻

[@alexstools]

Very intresting questions. I'm happy we've got AC here, makes the wiring headache go away. Or at least partly. Does grounding it take away the danger of being shocked as well? Hope you'll have a great week!! 2 days to go and I'll have my Christmas holiday (with everything locked down again..)

[@lewiemcneely9143]

A collet would be the way to go like a Dremel but I'll have to have wallered holes. I put in enough grease so it's circulating and not just sitting still and separating. Like with the old Peerless mower tranny's with the bentonite clay. All you need is something moving inside to get the rest to start moving. Bentonite might be slick but it ain't THAT slick and 10/4 on using GOOD grease. Some things I use OO Snapper grease and sometimes Red-plex. Just depends on what it is. And draglines took Texaco Marfak aluminum soap base grease if 90/140 wouldn't stay inside the cases and would pass the seals. GBWYou John!

[@Marcel_Germann]

With a PAT (portable appliance tester) you can properly test if the grounding is done properly. In Europe in working environments all appliances must be tested electrically on a regular basis. How often depends on the working environment and the appliance itself. A machine that's not moved very often, for example desktop PC or a refridgerator it's every four years. For most appliances once a year and on sites with harsh conditions like construction site equipment twice a year. Also twice a year is in public swimming pools, because there people are especially vulnerable to electric shocks. And also special conditions for hospitals and their medical equipment. The test results for an appliance such like this drill should look like: -Insulation resistance, test voltage 500V: At least 1MOhm between line(hot)/neutral and ground -Resistance of ground connection, tested between plug and somewhere on the metal housing with the probe of the tester with a test current of 200mA: Less than 0.3 Ohms - leakage current during operation: 3.5mA max The modern testers guide you through that, you only select if it's double insulated or grounded and the tester will tell you what to do. The limits are stored in the device, it will give a "pass" or "fail" at the end. And in the UK the electricians don't call that fail, there it is officially called "unsatisfactory"...but most still call it fail anyhow. That's how such a test result can look like, in that case it's a small PAT tester made by British manufacturer Megger. There are also other manufacturers, for example Fluke: abload.de/img/img_1031z4k09.jpg In Europe the colours are brown for the line or hot, blue for the neutral and green/yellow striped for the ground. The green/yellow striped is also permitted as ground in the US, as is bare copper. Which no one will do on a cord for an appliance, only in fixed installations.

[@ScoutCrafter]

Hello Marcel, It's always a pleasure to learn from your amazing comments. Thanks so much!

[@joelimeco]

I got a shock one time from a tool that was plugged into a wiring system that was improperly done. The neutral was hot and the ground was not hooked up. I wish I would have been carrying one of those ground fault testers you showed in an earlier video. Sort of like the cord you talked about where the cable was replaced, but the ground was not hooked up, everything looked Okay. It is always best to test the cord and/or receptacle if you are not familiar with it. Especially for tools that are double insulated.

[@ScoutCrafter]

Hi Dan- Sometimes the ground light would assure the polarization was correct and that was enough. 😃👍

[@bickle7207]

I suppose if the run-out is unacceptably bad, a person needs to start by determining if the problem is the chuck or in the shaft. If the shaft is good then a replacement chuck may be all it takes to correct.

[@ScoutCrafter]

Yes- You have to work your way down, Spindle, tapered shaft, chuck face, chuck jaws. You may get lucky and find it was the chuck, however many times it's the spindle bearing slop... Drill presses aren't made for precise work. Milling machines are a step up...

[@MrJruta]

Those are such beautifully built drills. Stupid me wished I’d kept my fathers and grandfathers cast aluminum power tools! I’d have a museum lol.

[@watchfast1]

Thank you for answering so many questions with your show and tell style. That really drives it home so I won’t forget. Now I feel ready to attack my father in laew’s aluminum Thor 1/4” drill. I have had it in a drawer for 30 years.

[@ScoutCrafter]

I love old Thor drills!

[@bluemantom77]

I got a Milwaukee hole shooter 0234-1 and a DeWalt dw-235g type 2 and a black & decker from the '70s in Orange all keyed chucks like you got there

[@ScoutCrafter]

They are so nice! Really well made and great design!

[@Bo0M360]

I do believe these old drills were intentionally designed to hold with the middle finger on the trigger finger. For what can be a dangerous tool, holding it this way gives the user a more controlled grip on the drill. The whole idea was for control.

[@cuddytom]

Festool have no cords. I saw them at a local woodworking store with festool truck visiting.

[@ScoutCrafter]

Festools are on a whole different level... Mostly high end stuff. I went to a Festool seminar and was amazed.

[@patrickmeyer1967]

The early handle designs should have looked to Colt for the handle design. A 1911 handle style would have had them go from good to great tools.

[@TomGunnTools]

I have a runout of 6 1000’s on one of my drill passes. Drives me nuts!

[@ScoutCrafter]

Tom- Runout varies depending on where you check it. If you check it at the spindle it will be less, check it at the chuck face and it will be more, a check like I showed will be the most accurate because it checks drill press, chuck and chuck jaws... Drill presses aren't made for high accuracy. That's why milling machines are 5 times the cost. =D

[@Dirtyharry70585]

There are times when I have to use a run out to measure the parallel movement of a large print head carriage. It Has to be within .0012. Bearings and stainless.

[@ScoutCrafter]

It's amazing how 12 thou can seem so small in some cases like woodworking but very large in the machinist circle... =D

[@Wanton110]

If you want to experience true run out you want the chinese brazed hex base drill bits, I have one where the tip of the drill bit is nearly at 40 degrees :/

[@bigvicsworkshop]

Amazing in the sound difference in the amps.. and from the sound.. it sounds like a big difference in power..well I'm not too sure what im saying sound right?😊

[@ScoutCrafter]

Vic- Spot on! You literally can hear the power difference. 😃👍

[@Russ0107]

Question for next video -- will a standard Jacob's chuck key work for any common drill press chucks? Or do I need one specifically for my walker turner drill model?

[@ScoutCrafter]

Boy do I wish! There are dozens of different chuck keys. Some are more common then others but one thing they all have in common is how expensive they are. Also there is no code on most chucks to indicate key size. Frustrating for sure...

[@michaelstark9485]

BOOM 😂😂😂😂

[@bobjoncas2814]

...hard to find a good corded drill these days for home use..cheap drills need expensive batteries and chargers..lol..keep safe..

[@bobwhelk2117]

There’s a few more chucks you didn’t mention: Woodchuck, up- Chuck, chucky cheese, Chuck Norris, Chuck steak, chucky, Chuck berry, Ground Chuck, Chuck Yeager, Chuck wagon. I hope this helps you and the viewers.

[@brentfowler2317]

I use Bel-Ray waterproof grease, do you have any experience with it? Or an opinion on it? Just wondering my friend. Thanks.

[@mikebashford8198]

Incredible how we have different wire colours in different countries. US is black for death, UK is black for dead. Milk is different as well - UK, red top milk is skimmed, blue top is full fat.

[@MoranGuyVideos]

Great video John 👍 one thing I noticed that measurement tool used was made in China 😒

[@ScoutCrafter]

China has the ability and capability to make fantastic stuff, my issue with them is they also have a reputation for making absolute garbage. So every China purchase is a crap shoot! 😂👍

[@MoranGuyVideos]

@@ScoutCrafter if I learn something here about tools is to look for once made in Taiwan.

[@patjohnson3100]

Good quality tools come out of Taiwan. I haven't had any problems with Taiwanese used power equipment.

[@jpsimon206]

Regarding the short handles that are typical of aluminum-bodied drills, I have quite a few periodicals from that time period. In virtually every illustration from the '40s and '50s, people are holding the drill just as you demonstrated. One odd thing, in a handful of ads in popular mechanics, I have seen it held the same way but directly upside down. Handle facing ceiling. No idea why. I did want to mention that this is in no way isolated to Black & Decker. Virtually all aluminum drills of the era had this short handle. This was sort of around the time that HSS was introduced, perhaps prior to that, one would need to apply much greater pressure to drill? Doesn't sound legit to me, just a theory

[@kanahmal]

I have a question, what is that visible arcing you can see inside of the drills? You can see it very clearly @ 14:08 . I remember it used to scare me when I was a little kid to use my dad's old drill because of the visible arcing.

[@ScoutCrafter]

Great question- The arcing you see is the electricity being transferred from the carbon brushes to the spinning commutator. In a perfect situation the commutator would be super smooth and the carbon brushes perfectly seated so almost no sparks would be visible, however different circumstances cause the brushes to bounce around a bit and the air gap shows the spark. As long as it isn't excessive it is ok... =D Thanks!

[@kanahmal]

@@ScoutCrafter right on! Thanks for letting me know.

[@jmegown52302]

I just sent you an email with pics regarding holding an older drill.

[@yirickarzoumanian9396]

Hi Sir I've restored Black & Decker 1952 The grease is turn as mud and clean on 50/50 de greaser but the problem is the brushes are lighting when i turn it on what you suggest to do up on it thanks

[@jimdavis8391]

Need to clean the commutator, you can sand it with fine Emery cloth or use a fibreglass pen.

[@ScoutCrafter]

Hello Yirick- A small amount of sparking between the commutator and brushes is ok, however if there are a lot of sparks or they are shooting out away from the brushes it is too much. The reason for that can vary. If the commutator is rough and un-even there are ways to smooth it out using flint paper or other abrasives that do not contain any metal.. Metal in the abrasives can get in the slots of the commutator and create more problems!

[@yirickarzoumanian9396]

@@ScoutCrafter Thank you so much for Information... have great day

[@594bolt]

I think I'll put a short cord on my Chinese heat gun. That cord's as stiff as a car battery cable.

[@ScoutCrafter]

😂👍. Mine too! However the gun does work nicely! 😃👍

[@594bolt]

@@edwardschwenk3100 Ok, thank you!

[@Ricopolico]

A sad fact of life, runout is inversely proportional to cost.

[@ScoutCrafter]

Spot on- Like 1/4 mile drag cars... Every second less is $10K =D

[@josephfienga9015]

Hi scout crafter I asked you if you could do a hand tool restoration I worded it pretty weird and meant to ask if you could do a restoration using hand tools

[@ScoutCrafter]

LOL- That is funny, the same words with two totally different meanings! =D Yes! I do want to try a few of those... 357MagDad is really good at restorations using mostly hand tools and his projects come out fantastic!!!!!! kzbin.info

[@josephfienga9015]

@@ScoutCrafter thanks scout crafter

[@kendion4597]

Let's see yr bows

[@tomcarola5068]

Can u explain the 2 finger grease rather then the 3 finger grease ………..

[@ScoutCrafter]

😂😂😂

[@jpsimon206]

Hey John, I was hoping to discuss a brief personal matter with you. Do you have an email address you are comfortable giving out?

[@ScoutCrafter]

Yes- [e-mail]

[@Reggyontheroad]

Oh oh leat today waching naw

[@WyoWellTester]

Your indicator isn’t calibrated

[@ScoutCrafter]

The dial on the indicator is rotating so you can adjust it for different applications.

[@WyoWellTester]

I was looking at the 100 thou dial

[@altonriggs2352]

Scout...have you considered that the aluminum used so much in the fifties for tools and even cookware...came from scrapped war planes of WWII. It was plentiful and cheaper.

[@ScoutCrafter]

Years ago I dabbled in writing screenplays. (For my own amusement of course) One play I wrote was about a WW2 plane that crashed with pilot and the plane was recycled into a newer plane during the war and it had the sprit of the old pilot. The new plane was unstoppable and on a mission of revenge. 😃👍