Adrian Ballinger Details His 2019 Search for Sandy Irvine

When George Mallory and Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine disappeared high upon Mount Everest on June 8, 1924 so began one of the greatest mysteries in all of mountaineering? Did they reach the summit of the world's highest peak first? They were last seen on the final ridge to the summit 'going strong for the top'. What happened to them. George Mallory was discovered in 1999 by an international team of climbers and filmmakers, answering some questions but giving rise to so many more.
My guest today is Adrian Ballinger.
Part I of my conversation with Adrian on Mount Everest is here:
• BEATING EVEREST at Its...
In 2019, I was with a National Geographic crew that went to look for the body of Sandy Irvine on tips that we had received from historian Tom Holzel. There was also a team there from Discovery Channel, one of my friends Jake Norton was there. And the expedition was led by none other than Adrian Ballinger, who has summited Everest eight times one of those times without the use of bottled oxygen. If anybody can attest to the difficulty of climbing the Second Step it would be Adrian, a photograph included in the video depicts him at the Second Step on a ladder and trying to surmount the obstacles of getting to the summit of Mount Everest.
So if anybody knows about how hard it would be for Mallory and Irvine to have made it over the Second Step, it's Adrian. So when this very short conversation I asked Adrian how the expedition managed in 2019 to look for the body where they spent many days above 8000 meters looking for clues. Coincidentally, Adrian and I spoke on the 99th anniversary of the disappearance of Mallory and Irvine.
For more on the Mystery of Mallory and Irvine, here is a fantastic interview with climber and historian Jake Norton:
• Unveiling the Truth: T...
-------------------------------------------------
Please join our Patreon:
/ thehappinessquotient
Please consider becoming a Channel Member for access to perks and to become part of a growing community:
/ @everestmystery
DISCLAIMER:
Thank you for watching this video! We want to clarify that some of the footage used in this content is intended for educational purposes, providing commentary and analysis on the subject matter. We respect copyright holders and have made efforts to attribute the sources wherever possible. Our goal is to enhance the educational value of our content, fostering understanding and critical thinking.
Footage used in this video is attributed in the video, including LOST ON EVEREST, separate films of both PBS and the BBC.
If you have any concerns regarding the use of this footage, please contact us directly. We are committed to addressing any issues promptly. Thank you for your understanding.
Sincerely,
Everest Mystery

[@EverestMystery]

Here's Part I of my conversation with Adrian Ballinger about staying safe on Everest and preventing the loss of life: kzbin.info/www/bejne/omqwqIGsgdOKqNk🔥

[@StandedInUtah]

I'm really enjoying this series of interviews. I have an ask of you. There is one person I would love to hear interviewed and it is Thom Pollard. Maybe you could convince him to be interviewed with questions from the subs. I know you have a ton of interesting stories and it would be fun to hear some. Thank you for having such a great channel!!

[@haydenbretton2990]

"Mallory & Irvine's Mountain". My granddad told me about 1924 and Malloy & Irvine's "Going strong for the Top" during our Queens coronation celebrations in 1953 when it was announced that Hillary had climbed Everest. Granddad said to me, "Nay lad, a couple of lads climbed that mountain in 1924 wearing "Pit Boots". ( granddads idea of climbing boots with better grips than boot studs ). So, from that time I aways want to believe that Mount Everest was climbed by Mallory & Irvine.

[@barbara-bu8rs]

Thats a lovely story❤️

[@haydenbretton2990]

@@barbara-bu8rs We were celebrating the Queens coronation in our small Yorkshire hamlet next to our village colliery. Several of us were listening to my granddad, we youngsters looked up at our collieries slag heap of the collieries spoil tip, to us it was Mount Everest. Several days later we kids raided the collieries dump of old boots, to us thats all we needed apart from a few jam or dripping sandwiches. In those days the coal mines worked 6 day weeks so we had to wait until Sunday before our "Summit Attempt". Sundays too was the day the poor people in the Hamlet "Picked coal off the tip", we passed these people "Going strong for the Top".

[@graywz]

Surely Mallory chose not to use the ridge; isn't that what he writes in his correspondence? If so, the 2nd Step wouldn't be an obstacle at all because they avoided it completely.

[@EverestMystery]

Might be right. The correspondence idea is a weak one...as two nights before his summit attempt he shared a tent with Norton, who had just tempted fate on a nigh impossible couloir, deep with snow and horrible footing. That said....couloir seems far more straightforward.

[@pauldavis4287]

It doesn’t get much clearer than “rock band under the pyramid”…which means all this talk about Mallory on the 2nd Step is far fetched.

[@WellyCoaster]

Noels note included "going up skyline". Odell in his account of the morning that day: "The wind being light, they should have made good progress and unhampered by their intended route along the crest of the north-east shoulder." George Mallory writings: "Upwards from the North Col it was fairly certain that no great obstacle would present itself below the final ridge, and it seemed probable that the true N.-E. ridge to the summit, if it could be reached , would not be insuperable." “But the upper part of the Northeast Ridge looked hopeful above the point called the North-east Shoulder, at 27,400 feet, that is, 1,600 feet below the summit. At this point the North-east Ridge is joined by a subsidiary arm, the North Ridge, which we decided could be climbed.” Norton on the couloir route: "The alternative route which I favoured, and which Somervell and I followed, is roughly parallel to the crest, but 500 to 1000 ft . below it on the N. face." The location of the axe, bottle and mitten east of the first step look to fit with Odells following the "crest of the NE shoulder".

[@brendanoneill1466]

Such a great interview. Ballinger's enthusiasm for Mallory and Irvine is palpable. I have always felt that they made it, or at least George made it. But that is just a feeling. And how Ballinger notes the snow pack state, the rock state and the actual climbing difficulty of different routes. Such great stuff. Thanks for sharing.

[@EverestMystery]

Adrian truly knows his stuff. Our team really enjoyed sharing the mountain with them, as many of the team members go back years together on various other expeditions.

[@brendanoneill1466]

@@EverestMystery Having peeled off a 5.9 overhang more than once...only a 15 - 20 foot climb at sea level, I can only imagine something like that at altitude.

[@ajaydandekar1069]

Hi Thom, thanks for Mr Adrian's extremely considered views, more so as he has as they say , 'rubbed his nose'with the Second Step. It is heartening to hear that he believes that they made it to the top.. The issue as we know is the route they took. The problem with the Couloir route and Mallory and irvine taking that is multifold: Firstly the Odell sighting: Odell was clear where he had seen them, nearing the base of the Final Pyramid. There is largely a consensus that Odell did see them at the Second Step climbing the last section of it.Couloir route would rule out Odell sighting completely unless somehow that route ends at the base of the 'Thrid Step'. But the step in 1924 was not named as one. As per 'Ghosts of Everest' the perfect fit was indeed thought to be the 'Third Step' for Odell's sighting but the Couloir route does not emerge at the base of the 'Third Step'. Secondly Mallory, as reported by Norton preferred the Ridge Route in his account in ,'Fight for Everest'. Thirdly the impossiblity of Mallory and Irvine being on the First Step at 12.50 given the timings and the location of O2 number nine( as identified thanks to 'Stella" envelope that your expedition found). Back to basics I guess. The 5.9 rating was thought to have been well within Mallory's capablilites.. I do think that those climbers were class apart from the rest and no disrespect meant. Just a look at the climbing speeds in that kind of a gear and clothing should allow us to think differently about them. Looking forward to more from you and thanks again to Mr Adrian for his extremely valuable exposition.

[@_lime.]

Great discussion and fantastic viewpoint that Mallory and Irvine having made it to the summit does not discredit the incredible feat of Hillary and Norgay making it both up and back down. One thing that always perplexes me that more people don't latch on to is that Mallory was found without his oxygen system. Other than a bottle that was found and was likely discarded by the duo when it ran empty on the ascent, no sign of their oxygen system has been found. My guess is that they did summit, ran out of oxygen on the way down, discarded their equipment that was now useless, and continued down. Now with a storm rolling in, fatigue from a grueling climb, and no supplemental oxygen, it seems likely that Mallory and Irvine would fall. We know Mallory did, and it seems likely that he was still connected to Irvine when he did. I believe that Irvine was forced to cut him free, but ultimately got lost or fell himself on the way down afterwards. Though this last part is purely speculation. While it doesn't confirm a successful summit attempt. The fact that the ice axe was found almost directly above Mallory's body to me indicates that Mallory fell and Irvine was jerked by the rope, losing his ice axe in the process. This axe was found lower down the mountain than the abandoned oxygen bottle. If we accept that the lost axe is the result of the fall, then they must have fallen while descending the mountain. At the very least, they reached near the first step because the bottle was found there.

[@EverestMystery]

Excellent analysis of the possible scenario with M&I. Thank you for watching!

[@kippamip]

You have to respect what Adrian has done in the climbing world. I liked his K2 video on the Abruzzi route. Anyone who has climbed the savage mountain deserves a listen.

[@EverestMystery]

That's for darn sure!

[@marissanorth85]

Love Adrian. I've watched him and so many over the years. Huge respect for all of you!

[@EverestMystery]

Thank you, really happy you enjoyed it!

[@WellyCoaster]

Thanks Thom for these interviews. Love Adrians enthusiasm, he looks to be a fun guy! Would be cool if he manages to do Nortons route some day.

[@EverestMystery]

Many of us would love to have a crack at that route! I'd move aside and put Adrian first in line, if the chance ever arose. Thanks for your thoughts and for being a member of the channel!

[@kevins341]

I always enjoy your interviews, Thom. Looking forward to the rest. I’ve been back and forth as to whether or not they made it, as well as which route they took. I hope you’re doing well.

[@ErinRenee1990]

I love these interviews with Adrian. I definitely love watching the stories he puts out. Keep up the good work Thom with bringing us these awesome videos

[@bs431980]

Awesome can’t wait to see other segments

[@stevedavenport7281]

Thank you Thom. Once more, you have provided us who will never stand on the summit of a mountain the insights of those who have. God bless and may the memory of George and Sandy inspire us to reach higher and farther in our own lives.

[@EverestMystery]

I truly appreciate your words, thank you!!

[@bigmike9665]

Thank you for having a guest, a 1st class climber, who can put into words, what I believed (as a non climber) happened. Its not just one thing that makes me believe at least Mallory made the summit. But a number of factors. And when your guest stated he believed they gave their all for the summit, and left nothing for descending, i thought Im not just making an emotionally decision. A 1st rate climber sees it the same way. Include the route they may have taken. Again, this takes nothing away from Hillarys climb. On the contrary, they made it down. Thank you again for the video.

[@EverestMystery]

Truly appreciate your words and that you watched the video. Thank you!

[@coachtim6188]

Your channel has grown so fast since I was a paying monthly member when hardly any content was coming out. So happy to see this.

[@EverestMystery]

Tim, thank you. It's great to see you....I appreciate that you're here!

[@scottbauer1406]

Awesome interview love his energy and his dedication to the search for M & I

[@wyomingadventures]

I'm glad to hear that Adrian thinks they summit Everest. Somewhere I watched your 2019 search for Irvine. It was so interesting watching guys looking for him. I remember that all of you stopped to help climbers in trouble at the end. Wish I knew what the name of that documentary was so I could watch it again. My brother and I thought it was one of best documentaries about Everest. Your search was so well thought out.

[@EverestMystery]

I'm happy that you enjoyed the video. Adrian is world class. I will be releasing more segments with him in the next couple of weeks. Thanks as always for being a part of the channel!

[@JackKinross]

Fascinating to hear Adrian think they took the couloir, which is what a lot of people think but Adrian knows the area. Great stuff Thom, thanks.

[@EverestMystery]

Thanks so much, really glad you enjoyed it!

[@Trish.Norman]

❤Thanks Thom❤

[@trypticon3293]

Damnit, I really really hope we can find him!!!

[@pauldevlin9835]

Wonderful Thom. Hope you are having a great summer so far

[@EverestMystery]

Thank you Paul, tons of rain in the Northeast, but otherwise going great!

[@pauldavis4287]

Thank you Thom for the entertaining and insightful video. I would love to see Ballinger climb the zig-zag route. Who knows? Maybe he stumbles across some of Mallory artifacts?

[@EverestMystery]

Adrian would know better and wouldn't variate off the Norton Couloir....as Jake Norton has had a look down there and says it's sketchy as hell. It would take a ton of dough to get a team back up there....not sure if 2019 ws sort of a last hurrah for awhile....but it would be great to see a team up there. I've had a guy communicating with me who had hoped to go this year, but was unsuccessful in fundraising

[@sandradyer5956]

Adrian is the best! Love him!

[@EverestMystery]

Glad that you enjoyed the video!

[@BrianaKees]

I thought I saw an interview about Irvine' being found with camera, and being in a Chinese museum. This person discussed how he had wanted to go and check this museum, but that was when Covid-19 hit.

[@EverestMystery]

Yes, here is that video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nZ2whWNur9J0hpI Thanks for watching!

[@shartwell]

Yes, there were rumors that the Chinese found his body and they moved it and I thought, buried it. It would be nice if they admitted to doing this( lol inquiring minds want to know!)

[@nancycunningham4225]

Looking at the photos of Mallory on that scree slope, it appears that his body is partially covered by gravel/rocks. In the future would it be possible to search that slope for Irvine, possibly gridding off that slope and scraping away at the rock for Irvines body? If they were linked by a rope wouldn't they be somewhat close to each other?

[@ttmallard]

Cool interview just now watching it, me still voting zig-zag to get to 3rd snowfield ... All bets still bets lol 🍺

[@EverestMystery]

Yep, no one knows or really has a clue unfortunately....but I do love the possibilities, as it bends the mind a bit....fun stuff indeed. Thanks for your membership!

[@10splitter]

Mallory was certainly a good enough rock climber to ascend the second step, if it was 2000 feet lower! Mallory was known as a ridge climber, I think they got to the second step, and although it's anathema for any climber to reverse and try a different route, I think that's what happened. I think they backed down, headed for the couloir, ran out of time, and died coming back down. But the nail in this idea is: What is Irvine's axe doing on the ridge? If they were heading back to high camp from Norton's they would not have been there. And the injuries to Mallory, as has been stated many times, are inconsistent with a fall from Irvine's axe location, and more to the point, climbers who have been past Irvine's axe location have always said it's not a place from which anyone would suffer a fatal fall. It's a mystery for the ages. My guess is that Irvine is buried somewhere deep in the Rongbuk glacier.

[@dkeener13]

Irvine's ice axe was found by Wyn-Harris in 1933 on his way to the couloir. The 1933 climbers ALL traversed below the 2nd step. The ice axe location is completely consistent with many theories, it does not in any way bolster the ridge theory.

[@alexk2652]

Great to see someone else say they probably made the summit. I still believe it 👍

[@lifesahobby]

Hey there . Thanks

[@EverestMystery]

Thank you, glad you enjoyed it!

[@Adaptedsolarpower]

I’ve read that Mallory had two gloves in his pocket but only one was turned in. Is this true or is this speculative people trying to go after the 99 team? You guys were miniature archaeologists. I couldn’t even imagine the stress sadness and respect you would have to give in that position.I mean you found George Mallory which is insane. I hope Sandy is found and the whole video is released so there is no room for speculation on how his body and items were removed or he would have been treated. In todays day and age with conspiracy theories. I believe total disclosure and recording is probably the best bet. #Theydefinitelymadeit

[@czarcastic1458]

It seems to me if they took the Norton route then how did Odell see them at the third step. The Norton route would have taken them up and over to the NW side approach.

[@dkeener13]

John Noel spoke to this in Through Tibet to Everest (1927): “Mallory told me himself, when he talked to me of his possible routes up the final pyramid and told me where to watch for him, that he expected to go up the North-East Ridge of the final pyramid, but if he found the gully particularly difficult or if the west wind were particularly bad he would take the Eastern Ridge, missing the gully by passing across the head of it and gaining better protection from the west wind. Such a route would bring him along the knife-edge of the Eastern Ridge. This ridge is corniced by the continual action of the west wind." From this, Mallory was clearly contemplating two routes, neither of which include the 2nd step. Option A is to traverse the couloir then up the NE ridge (essentially Messner's 1980 route and fairly close to Norton's intended route). Option B was to cross above the top of the couloir and to emerge on the ridge above the head of the couloir, well past the 2nd step, at a location corresponding roughly to the modern "3rd step". I believe it's a real disservice to this question to frame the route question as some kind of binary, either ridge or couloir. Especially when Mallory himself appears to have been contemplating a completely different set of choices.

[@ARXDMOS]

He definitely did not use the ridge. He definitely made the summit.

[@EverestMystery]

Definitely: a word none can use with even remote assuredness, unfortunately....however, many would agree with you!

[@ARXDMOS]

@@EverestMystery i understand, But i call it fairh

[@davidvilchez2209]

There is a theory I just learned that the Chinese found the camera back in the 70's and have it in some warehouse most likely

[@EverestMystery]

You will find this video explains everything! Sandy Irvine & the Camera Were Discovered? Mark Synnott's Revealing Intel #everest kzbin.info/www/bejne/nZ2whWNur9J0hpI Thanks for watching!

[@chrisowen2763]

As far as the 2nd Step goes; how could a 1960 Chinese climber do it and not Mallory? They knew about combined tactics in the 20’s. Mallory’s famous Welsh climbs had no pro and rudimentary belays.

[@DDekkon]

Yeah... I don't see anyone flashing a 5.9 at that altitude with full gear and O2 bottles. Not happening.

[@MiniUsyk]

I found Irvine's camera and developed the film, but didnt think it was important.

[@EverestMystery]

Easy come, easy go....only the entire world wants to know what you saw on those developed photos lol

[@MiniUsyk]

@@EverestMystery i was chatting to Lee Harvey Oswald as he was hanging out the window of the texas book depository as JFK went past but didnt think to tell anyone as it was my lunch hour and i was reading my paper and didnt think it important.

[@Gundus1000]

I can't help but think it is just about the money, furtheron. Always lures, but never real information. No footage released, no reports about real search work...only lures. That's my honest opinion, and I know I could be wrong, but I don't think so...

[@EverestMystery]

Yes, always about the money....always...oh, oops, I'm sorry....actually it's about not owning the rights and not having permission. That's my honest opinion. I know I could be wrong, but I don't think so.