How to repair an LCD monitor

Often the backlight inverters fail due to bad capacitors. In this video I'll demonstrate how to replace them.

[@mickeyflowers]

Fry's or Radioshack, the good ol' days. Both are gone now. Thanks to both of these companies for all the help and supplies over the years!

[@soucevit]

I don't mean to be rude, but there is one important thing you have forgot to mention. Capacitors in power supplies are under heavy load, which makes them more likely to heat up. So cheapest capacitors will soon simply give up and leak, explode or jast stay intact while loosing their parameters. There is simply need to use at least 105°C capacitors to extend live of power supply. If you will just go to the store and ask for capacitor 470uF@25V you will get 95°C one. So you need to mention you need 105°C one. And stay away from suprisingly cheap 105°C caps from internet. They could be actually 95°C ones only with different label.

[@richhirth9445]

I've never heard this before, so thanks for the information.

[@stefani.5737]

This is actually not rude at all, its really useful info, thx man.

[@carlosedwardos]

Martin M - I would not necessarily say that Panasonic FC/FM are superior to Chemi-con KMG, (aka Nippon Chemi-con, aka United Chemi-con) and let's not forget the other 4 big names in electrolytic capacitors - Rubycon, Nichicon, ELNA, and Toshin Kogyo. All of these firms are premium Japanese capacitors, and all have competing series that are basically a coin flip as far as which brand is superior in a given ESR, capacitance, and voltage. Just make sure you buy them from DigiKey or Mouser, otherwise you are likely buying counterfeit Chinese copies of these brands!

[@Elite7555]

And they can be very dangerous, because they can hold high electric voltages.

[@headstrument7657]

Vít Souček helpful information, thank you!

[@semloh1870]

I really like David Murray's tutorials and his videos. Such quality content- please keep making these videos- fan from the UK.

[@The8BitGuy]

I'm pretty sure these particular caps are just for buffering the 12V side of the circuit. So I don't believe the "Q" is a consideration on this part. However, it might be on the high voltage side that would be dealing directly with the lamps and would be oscillating at high frequencies, but those are using ceramic and/or tantalum caps.

[@Bort_Simpson]

Oof

[@mohatheace]

What's strange for me is that they sell capacitors individually packaged. It's a complete waste. Where I live, I can just go to an electronics store and buy as many capacitors as I need; the store buys them in bulk, then they just pick them out at the point of sale. I get them together in a paper sack and they waste less materials.

[@PCandJamisMinecraft]

I got some from RS. They came in a paper sack... and they were in a plastic bag in the paper sack. why on earth would they do that?

[@worldhello1234]

They don't waste it, they charge for it. =)

[@tttc]

I remember in high school we'd get some electrical components out of ~150 liter bags.

[@yunski_gtd]

Woah, nice

[@Xavier_Ns]

Rip radio shack

[@Westkane11]

Great video. My electronic teacher from college, told me, that one should always cut the pins on the electronic components before soldering the pins onto the board, because if one cuts a pin after it has been soldered, one risk making small crack in the soldering.

[@IFailFirst]

+Westkane11 Not a good idea. The leads (or pins) can help having too much heat go to the component. Also, unless you are using a seriously dull set of snips, there will be almost no force applied to the solder joint.

[@mrmike04st]

One quick suggestion. If you want to cut the leads, do it before you solder. If you cut them after you solder, you have a chance of fracturing the solder joint. If you cut them after you solder, reflow the solder again to make sure that any shock to the joint is dissipated. (Reference the IPC J-STD-001).

[@okaravan]

Oh my god! There are still exist persons knowing about IPC standards! And knowing how to use them!

[@sammymorini9748]

LOL i repaired the same (similar) monitor with the same problem.... repaired 3 monitors so far... ALL HAD THE SAME PROBLEM total cost: approx. 12$ ...

[@restlessfrager]

But how much is soldering/desoldering equipment?

[@sammymorini9748]

not expensive, 20-30$ tops

[@bryanl1984]

It's a cheap fix but, one that shouldn't have been needed. The caps from the 80s to early aughts are all substandard garbage.This is a huge problem with the retro console scene. They paid pennies for these parts, its irritating they didn't spend a few cents extra for one of the few parts that fail the most with use - caps are the closest thing to moving parts electronics have, apart from a few switches obvc. Obviously thry could care less if customers get screwed after they get their money but, damn, you think they'd be at least a little ebarassed. Iv e seen capacitors from the 20s through the 60s operating with extreme current and voltage be totally functional. Every time people start refurbishing old teletype machines and telecom equipment, they assume they'll need to recap the system but find everything working.

[@rotatingcat1957]

did 1 monitor cost 4$?

[@captainprototype187]

Sammy Morini, can you replace the vga cable that is soldered in? I found a Nuevo montor but smebody cut the vga cable for the copper. Ther is still a piece left so I thought to try to solder the 6 wires to a separate vga cable. Can this be done?

[@kenblack4802]

Very happy with your presentation, speed of presentation, and clarity with your presentation. It's just as I want them, GREAT JOB!

[@nimalperera5454]

You are indeed a good teacher. You explained everything so clearly. I have a monitor which lights up and then goes off within a second. Now I will try to repair it as per your advice. Please touch upon repairing the back light panels with a new video. You said 9 out of the 10 is always the issues with back light.

[@Mardoro124]

Did it work for you?

[@elkillerx]

Tried this out on my monitor before throwing it out... and it worked! Thanks.

[@pootwoot2978]

Anthony , your gay

[@caleb1736]

Lol poot woot HOW IS HE GAY????????

[@LilyBloomVee]

I own a HannsG 16:10 monitor which recently had a dead backlight too. A year later when I randomly came across this video I thought that this might be my problem and indeed it was. I had bought new capacitors and replaced every capacitor just to realize this really was the problem. Thank you for uploading this video and also to give me the courage to repair my monitor like this.

[@SkyHeye]

Even when the capacitors are not bulging/leaky they can be faulty, as you have shown. I use an ESR meter to do in-circuit testing. Best investment in years! Latest job - PSU, 400v 250uF caps totally open circuit, looked as new. Ordinary multimeter (on ohms as charger) agreed but caps needed to be pulled from circuit board to confirm. (Equivalent Series Resistance meter - great for testing 'goodness' of electrolytics) Cheers. Paul F.

[@GigaPlaya]

I'm thinking of buying an ESR meter. What model of ESR meter did you get? Can you give us the web address you bought it from?

[@sal8s]

you rock. I'm a pc guy and you have shown me how to solve so many more problems than most pc tech guys. keep up the good work!

[@AmyraCarter]

Have you ever covered the repairing of a CRT monitor? Would like to see that.

[@user-qo8js3qk5z]

Thanks for teaching me a new skill.

[@novaknovakovic1585]

Not certain about the points made but ,if anyone else needs to find out about small appliance repair try Saankramer Electronic Magazine System (just google it ) ? Ive heard some interesting things about it and my cousin got cool results with it.

[@carlosedwardos]

As someone who replaces capacitors for a living, I would give this video pretty good marks, with the main critiques being that those NTE capacitors are junk, stick with the 6 premier brands of Japanese electrolytics - namely: Rubycon, Nichicon, Chemi-con, Panasonic, ELNA, and Toshin Kogyo and get the 105°C rated ones, and get them from an authorized source, i.e. DigiKey and Mouser and that's about the only authorized sources in USA as counterfeit caps are at epidemic levels! - Also the ESR of the originals needs to be matched when selecting capacitors. Oh, and get a decent soldering iron, not that $15 thing! - lol

[@TsatsikiNinja]

burrito rustler that's what I was thinking. I repaired my old monitor a while ago and at my research I read that at the factory they put in caps that are rated too low so they will die faster.

[@OhWaker]

Newark/element 14 is also a good place to get legit capacitors.

[@spacejihadist4246]

I have a 3$ soldering iron and it still works. I bought it back in 2009 and I've been using it everyday.

[@adrianharu7503]

I'm not a tech guy but your explanations and video was very helpful. Thanks Adrian

[@TariqYasiinProd]

Thank you so much, old life saver! You always make my day! I watch your videos every single day and rewatch them at night lol

[@Dukefazon]

Hi David! I bought an old Xbox and as I'm trying to find all the possible problems with it I found that 2 of the caps are bulging on the mother board. Your videos give me the courage to mess around with things like this. Thank you!

[@joeylantis22]

Who else is on an 8-Bit guy binge?

[@Computist40]

+joeylantis22: **Waves** I am I am lol.

[@zuluecho5886]

Meyh

[@jm036]

*iBook Guy

[@TechDude3000]

me

[@_kcy033]

Me

[@flexmann2148]

Yes, you answered my problem to my dell lcd monitor. replaced the capacitors, and it works. Thanks 8-Bit Guy.

[@prmicrotech]

I literally have that same screen. Bought it on New Egg many years ago... Nice video thank you for all your content... Love your channel.

[@retropolis.player.4]

I fixed an LCD tv that would not turn on. It was three capacitors that blew. I used some capacitors from an old (dead) microwave and computer power supply. We used to have a radio shack but they got bought out by "The Source" and with in the last few years all their components have dried up. (as in no longer carrying them) Online is my only way to get them. So I usually tell people I can fix there stuff for cost and tips.

[@kerkjones3693]

I d love to watch a video by you on how to repair CRT tv keep up the great work

[@TrueThanny]

The main reason you'd need to replace capacitors is because cheap Chinese ones were used in the first place. The big benefit of buying online is that you can select the quality brands like Nichicon or Panasonic, which is definitely what you want to use, to avoid having to repeat the repair later on. Case in point, a Viewsonic monitor I got for my father was experiencing a several minute power on delay after about a year of usage. I removed and replaced all the cheap Chinese capacitors with Nichicon replacements, and it's been working ever since (well over five years now). If I had just put in more cheap Chinese caps, I might have had to repeat the repair a couple times over by now.

[@TylerSteven9]

Be careful cause there's lots of counterfeit caps online too.

[@derekchristenson5711]

This is great info that I could really see using. I wish I'd known how easy it was before I threw out the last two LCD panels that went dark on me... also, I sure wish there was still a Fry's Electronics or Radio Shack to go to. :-(

[@MiettedeThonTomate]

Speaking about CCFL lamps, a video showing how to replace those for LEDs backlight would be really great!

[@Geerladenlad]

Great video! I found Mouser by calling the 800 phone number of a local electronics store and the rep recommended them. I wish I had seen this video first!

[@Sama3L]

Desoldering gets more easy if you first retouch it with some fresh solder and then use wick or a desoldering pump. That way you have the components loose much quicker. Almost every modern circuit board is soldered lead free what also makes everything harder. In repairs like this I always use lead containing solder because it handles so much better.

[@FirstLastOne]

60/40 Leaded solder for the win.

[@mabuchild]

I am this one, the color is not correct.Although simple, but tell me how to open this model of lcd, Very happy to see this video. It helps me a lot.

[@LOGINCLtv]

I am INSPIRED! I'm not going to open her up yet, but my ACER has been borked for a while now. It's sitting shamefully on the floor while I'm tied to using my laptop. But soon... Í'll find somewhere that sells caps in this town.

[@hikaru-live]

If you are given bad monitors often, start stock some Japanese (Nippon Chemi-con, Nichicon or Rubycon) low ESR, 105 degrees Celsius rated electrolytic capacitors with common values. I always have a small stock of those caps. Also it is usually okay to step up the capacitance or the voltage rating.

[@jaser3312]

Cheers, worked a treat for me.Cost me all of $6AUD for 6 capacitors. Monitor revival at it's best :)

[@1Rowdy1derful]

You should have covered the temperature rating.

[@tenshi7angel]

Yeap, aim for 105c instead of the standard 95c caps.

[@markbrown2450]

Wow, that was really cool. Now I want to try my hand at fixing a monitor. Thanks.

[@windows9834]

it was so easy to take apart my monitor i just throw it at a wall

[@BurnedPinguin8630]

lel lul lol

[@TheRedCap]

Windows98 no, you didn't throw it at the wall you threw it out the window ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

[@windows9834]

THEREDCAP ok

[@SSBSfanboy]

+THEREDCAP Make sure the window is at least 10 feet from the ground before you do it though.

[@windows9834]

no just no

[@djbassaus]

Blister packaged capacitors.. Crazy!

[@goeiecool9999]

One time I had a pretty decent screen's backlight go out. I opened the screen and found capacitors that were bulging. In the time I was waiting for replacement capacitors, I had the monitor laying on the ground, screen up. I ended up dropping something on it. When I replaced the capacitors the back-light turned on buuuuut.... the LCD was broken from the drop :/. That was my first "successful" electronic repair ever... I was pretty bummed out.

[@addydiesel6627]

🎶Faate... , up agaaainst your wiiiilll🎶 Have you heard that song?

[@omega-max5347]

I'm sorry but this is hilarious.

[@andyroid541]

Keep up the good work man. These are useful informations. :)

[@alljoy6541]

Super stuff, I started collecting capacitors, cause i have seen this problem with LCD txs and monitors. Sometimes can just order the board and replace it, as it has a code that can look up online. We live in a throw away society, those old people who used to repair must be turning in the graves! As the saying goes.

[@TheEmeraldMenOfficial]

Oh hey, my school uses the same model as the one you repaired! Thanks, i always wanted to know what ports it had underneath

[@zo1dberg]

Meh. This channel will never take off.

[@starrwoman1]

Excellent video, I learned a great deal from it. Thank you for putting the video out and your time.

[@oscarfiala2104]

Helpt a lot thanks

[@233kosta]

Generally speaking it's a good idea to get higher rated capacitors in both voltage and thermal tolerance. This will ensure they are under less relative stress and they ought to therefore last longer.

[@kunka592]

I also had to repair a Viewsonic LCD that had bad capacitors in the power supply. It still works. Did the same fix for a Samsung TV and it lasted a few years until the video board died. Unfortunately, even used, those boards cost way more than they were worth at several hundred $, so we just bought a new Sony TV instead.

[@divine91177]

Hmm... not 2 sound like a total newbie.. but does this translate to lcd tvs? I'm thinking the internals must b fairly similar to a computer monitor but figured it never hurts to ask... u know, b4 i crack my 50in lcd tv open. 😃 Btw... just found your channel n totally addicted. Great stuff. Thnx.

[@evknucklehead]

I know this is replying to something posted over a year ago, but I figured I'd chime in anyway. The only real significant differences between TVs and Monitors are the extra circuits for handling audio and RF signals (if the TV has a tuner built-in). One other thing to consider is that most TVs and Monitors sold in the last few years have LED backlights instead of the Fluorescent backlights used in older LCDs, so you might not have any high voltage lines to disconnect when disassembling the display (does simplify the process a bit). Capacitors are still one of the most likely components to fail in these, though, so it would still be a good idea to replace them all.

[@MrPicaso72]

I love living so close to Mouser and Allied so will call is always the best option.

[@eddyedd4726]

You are such a cool guy

[@lbrown21494]

I give this video 9 times out of 10

[@WesleyDeland]

I love these repair videos!

[@MeOnTech]

Adding an extra capacitor where it was not needed would change the Q of the circuit. You may be either doubling or halving the capacitance if the circuit. Surprised it worked.

[@addydiesel6627]

I'm only amateur and lve not read electronics for years. But i can remember increased capacitance is major problem in oscillator circuits, in which case it would halve the oscillating frequency. Otherwise if the capacitor is converting to dc then its not an issue. But in principle you are correct in that u either have double or half. Obviously that Power supply has good tolerance

[@eglandon16]

Watching this seven years after it was posted and laughing because good luck getting caps from Fry's or radioshack

[@PokemonClassicMaster]

Now you can’t even go to both places anymore

[@jonaszprzybycien6545]

The fact that he mentions Fry's and Radio Shack make this video feel even older that it is xD

[@mickeyflowers]

They are both gone now.

[@omegafolf]

Surprisingly how dated this video is with it being 4 years old as Radio Shack is all but gone.

[@newagederpderp]

FUCK OFF

[@evknucklehead]

@@un_simp1127 There are still "Radio Shack Express" and "Authorized Radio Shack Dealers" around, as well as their online store, but full fledged Radio Shack stores are essentially gone. Most of these "Express" and "Dealer" locations also don't have the full selection of products in stock, and aren't in nearly as many locations as they used to be.

[@metelicgunz146]

We still got Fry's and Microcenter

[@alastair_the_lyon]

Yea. It sucks but we do got Microcenter!

[@sammorgan31]

Both Radio Shacks that were in nearby towns closed shop. There is no Fry's around here. I get a choice of mail order or nothing.

[@The8BitGuy]

Not a bad idea.. I've re-capped G5 systems before. But I don't have any G5 iMacs anymore. If you want to send me yours maybe we could arrange it. :-)

[@johnnygoodface]

I hate this new way of displaying KZbin's view counter! 2K! That looks misleading... Sorry I had to vent! ;) Liked the video :)

[@JasperJanssen]

You appear to be changing low-ESR caps in a SMPS for non-ESR models. That's... suboptimal.

[@mikeburke1993]

Make More videos. You are good at it.

[@zakaz_tv]

Hi Master. Just imagine I'm your online student and I'd like to ask something else, can I use an Integrated Circuit: 45580 JRS DPOD22 instead of the Integrated Circuit: LT FOZ OB2269CPA ??????

[@richard1113]

Huh. I would have never guessed that replacing some capacitors that appeared fine were the problem. I have a Samsung T240HD that died recently. I'm going to give it a shot.

[@Leonvolt28]

Richard Forester how did it worked out for you?

[@HHIMgary]

My monitor is a 27" Viewsonic. The whole screen just went all white one day. I have took it apart and cleaned all connections, and inspected all capacitors-they look ok. Same thing. Tried changing the power supply board with one I got off the internet but it did the same thing. Now I am going to change the capacitors and see if that helps, if not it's in the garbage. It's a white screen but you can barely see the image of the sign-on displayed.

[@kalebkonza9030]

Best tutorial for me

[@bsandoval2340]

David: I go down to my local fry's or radio shack Me: ummm radio shack is out of business and fry's is on that way as well

[@coldspring22]

Yes lots of monitor issues are due to capacitors - but I wish there was a way to more defnitive diagnostics! ESR meter perhaps?

[@Morjesta]

thanks for the tip! i just got a second hand monitor, it was cheap and it works ok, but its making a high pitched noise, that you think is causing this? Is it worth trying to repair? Thanks!

[@BabaLuzer]

Dang! Wish I had seen this video when it first came out instead of just recycling my two old Viewsonic LCD monitors. :P

[@benb3316]

Thanks! I have a LED TV that just didn't turn on one day. Replaced it, but sure it was something like that. I'll give it a try soon.

[@hateeternalmaver]

Hey David, I wonder if there are any similar dangers and things to watch out for like with PC power supplies? I do not dare touch these but this sounds like something I might be able to tackle and would try

[@GmGarlo]

so if the capacitor i took out has a value of 220 uf , can i use one as high as 1000 uf ? if not , what is the max i should go if i don't have a 220uf ? Great video by the way!!!!

[@emprsnm9903]

On DC power supply (monitor) circuits, I've plopped a 470uf in place of a 220uf temporarily to see if it fixed the problem in a pinch. Then if it the monitor or whatever came back to life, I ordered the correct capacitance and put it in there permanently and closed it up. Usually you cant go too much higher because of physical constraints, but during troubleshooting while its opened up it can tell you if ordering parts will be worth the trouble.

[@mike104740]

I have an original xbox that does not power on and I was not able to spot any leaking or bulging capacitors, so would replacing them work probably?

[@floriandaler5327]

mike104740 Look if there is a blown fuse. Those are Those cylinder-like glass thingys with a metal Cap on both ends and if you can't See a wire in them, they are prabably blown.

[@CarNewsCafe]

Great video! Might be good to make a video on sodering basics.

[@The8BitGuy]

Great! Maybe we should do a video together some time. I have a Korg synth but haven't used it in a long time!

[@dvha87]

So you have 6 old capacitors (on your hand at 3:15) replaced and you added the additional one, makes 7. At 3:16, I counted 8 (not including the 450 V 120 uF) capacitors, is there a reason you didn't do the other one or two (possible those 2 at 12 o'clock at 3:16)?

[@husbyugur77]

iv repaired my given samsung monitor hihihi only 1 bad cap.. and iv taken it from an old pc power supply whahaaahahaha its like new .. thanks david cheers ;)

[@sambalsamurai9672]

Awsome video and good logic! Another question: My eizo 30" CG303W emits soooo much white light (even at the lowest brightness setting) that I get eye pain and headache after using this monitor. Never had any issues with other/ older EIZOs especially those LED monitors are so calm and good for eyes, But now that I have the CG 303W I want to figure out how and if there is a way to dim the backlight further down... Any help would be welcome thanks!

[@rickpepper9877]

I love you, guy.

[@honkhonkler7732]

I love the Fry's in Arlington. Literally my favorite store.

[@geniemaster5907]

Thanks. Helped a lot.

[@awilliams1701]

Even in 2013 Radio Shack didn't sell capacitors or at least not mine. And now it doesn't even exist. And I don't have a fry's. Anyway I already threw my 24" 1080p LCDs away and replaced both with 28" 4K's. I do plan to eventually replace the 27" 1440p with another 28" 4k. lol It's much, much newer than the 24" ones though. Those were 10 years old.

[@thekinginyellow1744]

If it's an older monitor that used to be popular, you can also check ebay for used but guaranteed working power supplies and just replace the whole thing. I got a powerboard for my LG Flatron W3000h for $22.00 including tax and delivery. And in this case, the description said 'Was removed from a working LG 32" TV'. Part numbers matched though.

[@dave1135]

Was going to comment that You're lucky to still have a radio shack, but I see this was made in 2013. All my local radio shacks closed, and the closest from me is st louis, which is about 200 miles from me. So I'm stuck with ordering online.

[@tohopes]

On substituting capacitor values: I recently replaced the caps in a wireless router I'd bought off of eBay. Powered it up, saw that it worked... and only then realized that I'd used 1uF in place of 100uF. I guess that having too little decoupling / power-filtering capacitance is more of a probabilistic cause of failure, because it depends on how irregular the power usage will be. (And also, the errors that result might be subtle..) I've since replaced the 1uF caps with proper 100uF ones.

[@n5lyc]

Cool video, thanks. I have an iMac g5 that as bulging capacitors (as I m sure many of us do) and is non functional. I think I will tackle that job.

[@paulhatch8451]

I was given a 23" go monitor hp2310m. I took it all apart. Right down the the backlight, everything looks fine but the same board you worked on in this video has white discoloration on the board. Should I just change the board?

[@marinacelada3246]

Hi! I own an Acer Extensa 5230, and I DON'T WANT TO THROW IT AWAY, as almost everyone has suggested me, but it's got a problem with its LCD: if I open it too much (more than circa 45°) it becomes black (you can barely see the silouhettes of elements on the screen), and red and green latitudinal lines of pixels have started to appear on the left side (above the left grip of the screen). I know that I can find a used screen for circa € 80, but I'd like to repair it. Any suggestions?

[@emprsnm9903]

Based on your descritption of the symtoms; I have to believe the lid/screen Cable has a break in it where it bends at the hinge point. Cables can be hard to find for any laptop, because they are almost always model specific. If you can find a replacment cable for €10-€20, you might be able to take apart the screen and lower portion to swap out only the cable. Just take your time and be carefull handling the inner screen portion. It's not what I would call 'easy', as manufacturers like to hide the screws and platic snap-together stuff. It's easier than repairing a broken phone screen, but you need to have a light touch. If you've never taken a laptop screen apart before, be prepared to buy a replacement lid/screen in case you snap something in yours. Just FYI, and good luck!

[@marinacelada3246]

@@emprsnm9903 Thank you very much!

[@brucewilliams6292]

Nice and concise! Thanks

[@lucasfer899]

Wow! This is really cool info, never knew this. Favourite + like.

[@industar]

Thanks man! really cool video

[@lostmic]

So umm... now the monitor stays on but it has lines through it nothing recognizable and it seems to after 30 seconds start to white out the entire screen, but when it started doing that I quickly unplugged it. I was really hoping to get this monitor working. Any Suggestions? Also my board was not as simple as yours my compactor was in the middle of of a bunch of sliver lines not just off by it self. I made sure it was the right compositor with an up volt from 25 to 35 everything else was the same. Old NEC AccuSync LCD 224WMX I screen shoted before and after shots of everything, it might be my soldering I am really bad with it but I did my best to stay focuses on what I was soldering. Old NEC AccuSync LCD 224WMX

[@williamsterben]

Very informative, thank-you.

[@SurajES]

i have the exact same monitor with the exact same problem. thanks :)

[@RobertKraig]

lol, 9 yrs and radio shack & fry's both went out of business :)

[@Ragesauce]

@The 8-Bit Guy I had a question for you, regarding older laptops such as the Compaq LTE you own in your best laptops for dos video. I was wondering if those screens happen to go out, but still produce an image and don't have any cracks or anything in them, but a portion of the image isn't showing, is it possible to fix them? Thanks!

[@emprsnm9903]

Since you've been waiting a few months, I'll chime in here. On those older LCD displays, partial screen blanks (with no cracks) were often caused by a partially broken display ribbon cable to the lid. A couple interrupted data lines carried by the cable could cause whole chunks to not appear, all the way to 50% or 100% blank screens. Often verticle bars missing, or bottom half, etc. The LCD might have something wrong with it, but the lid cable is a flexing part that does fail, so I'd start there, and having a doner parts machine helps too.

[@zakaz_tv]

Hi Master, I had a broken ceramic fuse "F801T3.15A/250VAC". But I can't find this type of fuse in my city. Could you tell me PLEASE, can I use the fuse ""F5A 250V or F4A 250V" instead of it ???

[@swagiyo9801]

Well... You can, and it will probably work fine. But the original fuse is burning over at 4 amps and the one you have avalible is burning over at 5 amps. The problem with this is that if a compponent shorts, it will first stop heating up until it draws 5 amps, therefor making it more likely to catch on fire. But the chance of that happending is nearly zero when it's just one more amp. So, yeah. Go for it :-)

[@zakaz_tv]

Thank you, Master.

[@MrOnlyzohaib]

Don't do it buy a fuse with more amps but not less

[@Compucore]

Intersting to know. There is also one other thing as well. to add on. I know this was made three years ago when you had made this video. As you and every here knows already that Radio shack has already gone belly up in Canada and in the US. So something like fry's would do. But also if there are specialty shops that technicians usually go to for capacitor, diods, led, Arduino kits as well as Raspberry Pi kits. That are local to where you live. Also also have them. Plus sometimes they will also sell them in bulk too for these. I have seen them in about three shops ver here. for capacitors, Led, and diodes. Where I live they have Addison electronics, And MADD electronics. (Same company but a daughter of addisons.) They have those there too.

[@berthayellowfinch5471]

Thank you so much for this video!

[@edwinjamero]

the problem in my aoc monitor is the signal inverter board, not the power supply board. Do i need to replace the whole signal inverter board or only parts of it?