Aftermarket AC condenser poor quality versus OEM original condenser. DON’T GET CHEATED!!!

[@TheGibby3340]

Very well done. Thx for taking the time to provide us the “cutaway” views. Effectively reinforces textbook study to see it real world. Much appreciated.

[@Ali_Alhamaly]

this might be the best video that explains micro-fin channel refrigerant flow path, subcooling, and also hidden features in OEM condensers that make heat transfer much better than the aftermarket ones. The title the video does not really tell you about the full content which is really really helpful.

[@nathanwalsh3028]

You should be given a medal sir. Thank you so much for that. Was going to consider replacing my wife's air conditioner compressor with aftermarket and after your video hell to the no on that

[@coldfinger459sub0]

Air conditioning compressors are a little bit of a different story. As long as it’s brand-new some manufactures are OK then fortune fact is you never know which ones. Usually if you get an aftermarket source that is not original to your car for example. Do you have a Ford. But you find an aftermarket source for a DENSO compressor. Sometimes Ford uses a DENSO compressor so you may be getting the exact same compressor Ford will sell you but it’s just come in an aftermarket source box saying DENSO on it. Even if DENSO did not design or manufacturer a compressor for a particular vehicle. If they decide to market it build it publish it and sell it DENSO is a very high-quality original equipment manufacture and aftermarket manufacture. But then you might get a name for example I’m just gonna pick a name let’s say ( five star). Now this aftermarket distributor usually actually builds or manufactures or designs nothing. They may purchase compressors from the cheapest place they could get them from unknown manufactures of unknown quality and every now and then you’ll get good ones and every now and then you’ll get bad ones. They buy from anyone who can fill the order in a white box and slap their label on it this is only in some situations. In my 40 years I give DENSO the highest marks for the highest quality components for both original equipment manufactures and aftermarket.

[@mazdaland9627]

Excellent Video! Tom, you did a great job teaching this in not so great conditions. Props to you!

[@coldfinger459sub0]

That was my old iPhone 6 Pro plus and a stabilizer on the camera failed.

[@egx161]

Man. I wish you were here in Nashville. Professional!! OEM all the way for me. Thanks

[@benitoloco899]

I've worked in the auto industry for years as a service tech and I can verify this guy in the video knows what he's talking about. Consequently, I can relate to the frustration involved in repairs like this as they go to Hell in a hand basket a few months down the road after installation. Customers then tend to come back with complaints even though the tech did everything correctly. Also, videos like this remind me of Honda's OEM condensers for 10th gen Civics: they are total sh**. If looking for an aftermarket condenser, always make sure the specs match the original OEM one from the factory or exceed it. Never go cheap on parts like this. It isn't worth the buyer's remorse later on.

[@otislawrence474]

Thanks man. You educated me.

[@benitoloco899]

@@otislawrence474 Your welcome. Vehicles are complex pieces of automotive engineering and it's always good to learn something about them.

[@btwbrand]

Great video. This tech knows how these systems work and that is a very important part of knowing how they can fail and how to repair them. Invest in over the ear muff protection or the disposable foam and or washable silicone ear plugs if noise in an area is too loud for you. If you opt for reusable silicone be aware they will need cleaning with soap and water every day or two of use and should be dry before insertion to keep from putting foreign matter into your ear canals. Safety glasses as well. Your vision and hearing is important. You only get to two of each and they need to last you a lifetime.

[@robertmitchell8347]

Very detailed thenk you so much. I always wondered how much difference there really was OEM to aftermarket because of the price difference. Thank you.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

You get what you pay for. Sometimes you even get less than what you pay for..

[@mglsite]

Well done, you have convinced me to go ahead and spend a couple of hundred more dollars on the one for my 2000 Astro Van.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

It’s better than having poor air conditioning performance on very hot days. Or eventually replacing a burnt out compressor or clutch caused by high head pressure

[@NoahWL1]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I cannot stand aftermarket crap. It has wasted so much of my time. Nothing is worse than doing a job twice not because you messed up, but because the part was garbage. Would you consider posting your notes on aftermarket parts? Just a public Google Sheet with the manufacturer, part number, and a short description of your findings (or a couple pictures) would be incredibly useful to so many people. I know it would be a lot of work to initially compile your existing notes, but if you start taking notes in a format that is easily publishable (like a Google Sheet) it wouldn't be any more work than what you do now. I would gladly pay for such information and I'm sure others would too, and I'm just a DIY guy.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

It would be nice to have everything listed on a spreadsheet. Unfortunately I don’t even have time to edit that’s why you see all my videos are point and shoot from beginning to end with no retakes I leave my mistakes in there are usually don’t even add titles I have tried in the past but my day is counted in minutes not an hours. For the last 30 years I’ve had 10 to 12 billable hours I have to get completed from 7 AM to 7 PM every day with absolutely no breaks I eat in my vehicle while driving to a job or eat while I’m shooting a video one hand with a sandwich your food and other hand on the camera or sitting off to the side this is how busy I am. I run to separate businesses all out of my phone off QuickBooks. Since I was 12 my father had me deconstruct and tear down parks that have failed and cutting open parts that are OEM and comparing them by cutting open the exact same part supposedly that is an aftermarket part. And the majority of the time it’s a big failure on the aftermarket side when it comes to quality or the materials used for the machining practices and tolerances. In our trade anybody who has been in it for decades both on the management side on the parts acquisition side and as a technician knows that most every manufacture is not a manufacture summer just re-boxers and actually produce no products they outsource from different suppliers. Even the original equipment manufactures cannot produce every part number on the face of the planet but yet they’ll have it in their inventory because they will buy it out from another third-party source rellabble it and throw it in their box so they can complete their product line part number category. Do decades of experience with OEM parts and manufacture tolerances and machining and stamping practices you learn and develop a pattern of what is original equipment comparing it to some of the cheaper inexpensive aftermarket companies who try to duplicate the exact same part. I was taught by my father at an early age metallurgy machining in casting processes thermal dynamics and fluid dynamics and then later going into college retaking these classes. With heat exchangers on the evaporator‘s in the condensers most of it is pretty easy basic math and physics. The majority comes down to surface area. The more surface area you have on a heat exchanger the more heat you can reject or absorb. Somewhere between third grade and fifth grade your teacher went over basic science especially as you hit around six grade to seventh grade it starts becoming part of your math problems and science class. If you remember when the science teacher or the math teacher held up a beaker one filled with sand and one filled with large thumb size stones Your teacher asked a question which one has more surface area ?. Of course all kids naturally drift towards the large stone because of the large surface on a stone. Not realizing that the little individual grains of sand adding up all the surface is 100 times more surface area than the few stones in the beaker. The same goes for the fins and the tubes on a aftermarket condenser. Including the internal fins that are on the inside of the tubes of the Microchannel parallel flow condensers and Evaporators. I’ve been taking pictures and videos of fail components or poor performing aftermarket components shortly after I started my business back in 1993 always had to intent to become an instructor later on in my life compiling my notes writing a book making training material. But life happens three children later three divorces lots of work hours in two businesses writing training and instructional manuals or hardback books got pushed off of my to do list. Still plan on becoming an HVAC instructor to donate my time of my years of experience back to kids who need to learn from somebody who actually worked in the field since I’ve been asked by three different colleges to come work for them but I’m not retired yet. Getting close.

[@bearstephens6722]

I have a 2015 Scion tC. Had a rock go THROUGH my ac condenser and almost went through the rad too! I was forced to get an aftermarket because the Genuine Toyota condenser was back ordered by 7 months. That was 3 years ago and now this aftermarket isn’t able to keep up with triple digit heat. I just ordered a Genuine Toyota condenser and will be swapping it in asap!

[@coldfinger459sub0]

If you are doing this yourself in your own backyard or garage. If you have all the Time in the world, keep it on the vacuum pump for 12 hours overnight or even 24 hours You can never over vacuum. All you can do is help remove and reduce the moisture content cleaning out your system. . 👍

[@bearstephens6722]

@@coldfinger459sub0 I used to be a tech at Toyota so I do all the work on my car. The dealership I’m at now has a machine to evacuate and recharge, but I will be pulling a vacuum on it for a few hours to get it as moisture free as possible!

[@mlez7197]

great explanation....I must subscribe...keep posting a/c videos...you make them so entertaining...

[@Sergio-bs4dx]

"This freaking music is driving me nuts" 🤣🤣🤣🤣 I think is mexican ranchera music.

[@joeshearer1247]

You must be an HVAC guy too with that big navac pump and Fieldpiece tools!

[@coldfinger459sub0]

Joe Shearer good observation 🤫😉 automotive guys need a lot of help. There is a massive lack of education no more choir mints at all whatsoever to work on cars. As you know they took away our trade schools in high school so there’s no more auto shop no more machine shop no metal shop no wood shop.

[@jawadurrahman8659]

Very informative. Thanks for the upload.

[@jawadurrahman8659]

Dear Sor. Hi. I need your expert advise. I got a problem with my car AC system. It often stops cooling at 2500-3000rpm. At idle it cool air upto 10°C, while at motion it cools upto 4°C. But at high rpm, it will stop and will not turn on unless i swith off and on the AC button either 1 time or several time. On the guages it shows 40-50psi at LP while 200°C at HP side, at 3000 rpm temperature 40°C. At idle RPM it shows normal suggested pressures. FYI: i changed the TXV valve, clean the condensor and evaporator from outside, Topup the oil and changed desicant bag. The bag was half black but not too much like i saw in youtube videos. In the condensor, 1 of the tube is bend at the top. I also observed no oil in the compressor when i o was doing the above mentioned job. Please advise what is the potential problem with my car ac. It is yaris 2008 model with compressor Variable displacement type. (5SE09C).

[@JG-ss9xy]

Sooo true !!!! I bought a Yaris that is not enough cold for me they check the pressure and everything was ok but they change the genuine condenser in a small accident and this video is gonna make me purchase the genuine Toyota condenser!!!👍👍👍 thank you great video

[@coldfinger459sub0]

I like the little Yaris I have a 2009 yards or 300,000 miles on it

[@JG-ss9xy]

@@coldfinger459sub0 yeah man i have a Ford Edge 2017 but i still love my wife yaris, i don’t want to sell it only has 125.000 miles on it and has only dealer parts, brakes, s plugs, trims etc… except for the aftermarket condenser that the previous owner put on a small accident 🙄🙄🙄 and is not very cold .

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@JG-ss9xy Yaris has a extremely small refrigerant charge it’s very sensitive even if it’s 2 ounces low or 2 ounces overcharged will greatly affected schooling on a hot day

[@JG-ss9xy]

@@coldfinger459sub0 that recharge the system, check pressure and everything was ok, but for me is not very cold, and I noticed after few days of that the condenser has some uv oil on the bottom left, but still cold is not blowing hot air I’m not sure if replacing it for the genuine part is gonna be really ac ice cold

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@JG-ss9xy on a cold day or just a cool day say 65° or 70° even with a lower quality aftermarket condenser it should be very cold still. One problem on the Yaris that it’s oil charge that is required is so small if the shop adds extra oil too much that will also reduce the cooling because the system is so tiny it’s very sensitive to a small amount of too much oil

[@MaXimus666789]

Epic Video man, hope the hears have stopped bleeding ;)

[@TheCalvinSkinner]

On modified AC systems, like a vintage air with home made lines and unknown capacity, how do you determine the correct charge amount?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

Vintage Air comes with installation instruction manual. They tell you right in there instructions 1.8 pounds..

[@Nick210]

Got bit by an aftermarket condenser. The thing would heat soak so bad when the car was at a standstill.

[@komoru]

You show that the bottom 5 rows provide the subcooling. Here's a somewhat theoretical question: what if you can install an entire second condenser and use the entire condenser to get even more subcooling? In some vehicles, there isn't enough space, but in the vehicle in your video, there's certainly enough space for two condensers. I've seen someone install dual condensers on an old 300D Mercedes in place of the original r12 tube & fin condenser. He has a video here on youtube called "W123 Sanden, Dual Parallel flow condenser, and r134a results ". Interested in hearing your thoughts on this!

[@coldfinger459sub0]

komoru yes Mercedes did that from the factory. The second sub condenser located under the bumper. I use to do that back in the 90s on long limousines that had up to five evaporators added to the rear. Limousine manufacturers did know how to make AC work correctly. I was called in to a limousine repair and manufacturing Business and asked to solve their problem. I added extra condensers and extra receiver driers. This is what my dad did Back in the early 70s at his AC shop on new cars that were being shipped and sold iin the Arizona and New Mexico Desert. My dad would make custom IHX ( Internal heat exchanger ) the same heat exchanger that you see on today’s most modern R1234YF cars. You use soft copper pipe and attach smaller copper pipes to the outside of the larger suction line using silver brazing. Every HVAC tech that has been formally educated and or has taken thermal dynamics and fluid dynamics knows this. Basic HVAC/R 101. I did a video on the Mercedes.

[@KurtBarcelona]

@@coldfinger459sub0 would additional condensers and receiver driers strain the compressor? or would it create a higher head pressure? I'm planning to add additional condenser for Scion xB.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@KurtBarcelona you must be in a hot climate. Gets tricky with today’s condensers. Because most new condensers have a receiver dryer built into the condenser in the last about six rows of tubes are for sub cooling only liquid.. One of two ways if reciver built into condenser. 1: customer modify a Y fitting connect, to two parallel condensers connected. Or 2: in series hey single pass or double pass, microchannel parallel condenser behind your original multipass microchannel condenser with the receiver dryer. If your condenser has the receiver dryer attached to it, it’s very important, because only liquid comes out of the bottom of the receiver and feeds last last five or six tubes . You can try to take a IHX off a newer car and custom make liquid to suction IHX assembly line to help efficiency. You can add a second evaporator. Buy a kit like on a limousine. Install it in the back on floor or roof inside like some SUV or van. Add a super high out put fan

[@KurtBarcelona]

@@coldfinger459sub0 yeah it gets hot here. 95-100 deg F with 60-80 percent humidity. I live in the tropics by the way. Midday here is a pain to drive since the heat creeps inside the car, but the pressures return to normal at night. Also, I figured that probably my compressor can't handle series condensers. I'm afraid I might cause it to "exert more work", which prematurely wears it out, and series connected condensers are not as simple as I thought. It's too complex to consider since there's also no kit that I've know that readily fits in the Scion xB. I could buy generic local condensers from China without the receiver drier built in though, but I still have to check its quality. What If I parallel different condensers? There might be a difference of flow restriction on them. Do I need valves that can regulate the refrigerant flow to each condenser? Or would the prallel condensers self stabilize? I might risk the reduced flow rate on wa h condenser, but most likely it would run better compared to a single condenser. What do you think?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@KurtBarcelona if parallel us same condenser If series first one is single pass only ( less friction loss) resistance U must understand internal construction of condenser. I have ran up to 3 condenser in series with up to 4 evaporators on one compressor on limousine. Blasted hundreds of thousands of miles.. Compressors do no die or wear out. Compressors are murdered by people who don’t know what they are doing. Most all compressors last longer then the car. Unless someone murdered it. Too much refrigerant Too little refrigerant Too much oil Too little oil Wrong viscosity oil Wrong type oil Moisture contamination Air contamination I have video of me driving in 106F with 39F out the dash 2012 Prius C Because it’s charged right

[@Sabs761010]

Hi. @Tom Lech / LECH AIR CONDITIONING, I put seal to cover a leak and now tha mechanic told me that the condenser get clogged. Does that possible? And there some Way to unclogged?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

On the microchannel condensers, there is no way to unclog you just have to replace everything.

[@Sabs761010]

@@coldfinger459sub0 thanks a lot

[@syednajeeb998]

Hi. Great video. I have Honda odyssey 2013. I had changed the expansion valve, compressor and condenser. All OEM. But still when on ideal during high ambient temperatures the AC stops cooling. Also I am facing problems with the AC not cooling to a good level. I cannot understand what is the cause of the problem. The actuator on the driver side has the clicking sound. But when I change from low to high and then back to low the noise stops.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

Possible multiple problems Not having a proper functioning, actuator could be blending the wrong temperature air Could be getting a little heater core air mixed in with cold air heat always wins Usually improper refrigerant charge is the number one problem after all components, replaced technician did something wrong .

[@syednajeeb998]

@@coldfinger459sub0 thanks for the suggestion. The technician here does not know the refrigerant quantity to load. As Honda odyssey does not have any labels showing it. I will try to clamp the radiator hose and see if it makes any difference. The temperature max I am getting is 52 f. Which is not good at all. The rear AC is also having the same problem.

[@syednajeeb998]

@@coldfinger459sub0 just wanted to ask you other than the condenser what else could be the problem when the ambient temperature is high, the AC stops working when stationary?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@syednajeeb998 is this a motor driven thermal Fluid fan clutch ? Does this have electric fan? One fan or two fans It almost sounds like the electric fans are not operating if it has some or possibly for some reason they’re only on low speed Hey thermal Fluid fan clutch has a Fluid drive that is controlled by a bimetallic thermal element It adjust to temperature supposedly locking up the fan one to one with engine speed when it gets very hot so there is good air flow These go out a calibration with age . It will flow enough air. The engine will not overheat, but the air conditioning will suffer greatly at slow speeds and idle at stops. .

[@syednajeeb998]

Motor driven clutch. The fan motors have been replaced. But the condenser which is OEM and new is overheating. As it is new I don’t see the reason that there might be a block. So I am getting confused. The high pressure shows 350 and low pressure shows 40.

[@hnd2893]

This got me thinking, in most of the vehicles I see, the bottom 1/4 of the condenser cooling fins are the ones that take a beating from road debris, pebbles, sticks, ect. Usually, the fins if not restricted by dirt, they're bent reducing airflow.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

My car to all smashed.

[@hnd2893]

@@coldfinger459sub0 You can probably find a used one, cheap! 🤣 We've been seeing a lot of older Priuses with stolen Catalytic converters, some have been totaled by the insurance companies, maybe I'll snag a condenser for yours from the next one 😂

[@1marcelfilms]

@@hnd2893 HA last time i attempted to get a junkyard condenser all the fins fell out as i pulled it out. it was completely corroded away

[@coldfinger459sub0]

Lol 😂

[@TheMslondon1969]

great video on the differences. I have little experience building a ac system. Any help is mostly appreciated Do you have a video on where to mount then condenser on the radiator? Spacing from each other. You mention hot coming around the condenser from the engine. What is proper location and how to stop that hot air. Fans: Do you use separate fans for the condenser and radiator or one fan for both?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

Just analyze and look at a few modern cars to get some ideas. If you’re adding to a old car that has a mechanical fan or a fluid driven thermal fan clutch it is recommended to add a auxiliary electric fan controlled by a pressure switch off the high side AC system. Vintage Air make some kits You have to custom make up your own brackets to make them fit in a custom location Keep it about a half inch away from the radiator. You have to make up your own custom plastic that is heat resistant or metal air dam baffle Sheilds to direct or block air in some cases you can use some foam that is rated for high temperatures.

[@Devo1987]

Great video you smart man A+ Alot of my A/C Condenser fins are bent over and i have a limited income . What A/C Condenser would you recommend of a 2006 Mazda 3s 2.3l ?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

If you are mechanically competent you can modify and you have more time than money I would look for the biggest modern day micro channel parallel flow condenser I could find modify and make your own brackets. Add to or modify or change or make up your own hose connections. You can even get one of those universal modern day universal Microchannel parallel flow condensers. They are cheaper you’ll just have to make up your own hose ends

[@KurtBarcelona]

Great video explaining in actual practice the behavior of little changes to the condenser. I am planning to add an extra condenser since my stock condenser on my Scion xB keeps having high pressure whenever I accelerate, and the cooling effect is deteriorated especially when ambient temperature is high (95-100 deg F). I plan to install another condenser to reduce the head pressure, and also probably replace the old stock condenser so that the high pressure at high ambient temps would be reduced. Do you think this is a good idea?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

That has a factory Denso condenser extremely high quality, efficient condenser. If it has never been in an accident and still has the original condenser, that’s about as good as you’re going to get. It all comes down to is the condenser clean Has the refrigerant charge been properly recharged by weight? Good quality window tint does help like 3M Crystaline a little pricey though. I put it on all my cars.. I even put the lightest window tint on my front windshield because that’s where the most sun comes in at It’s not how dark your window tint is infrared wave length is stopped by the chemical minerals they use in the window tint reflects. It’s not the darkness of the window tint it’s the material they use so even a clear window tint can reflect the infrared wave length.. Second condenser helps when properly done

[@emorysmith4641]

Thanx for video I hit a deer had replace condenser used after market trq I think finally got it charged now getting really hot and on hot days not cooling right and when idling it’s not cooling right I knew it had to be the knew it had to be the condenser I used already took back to mechanic shop once 🤦‍♂️

[@marioa442]

Tom, any recommendations on reputable manufacturers for condensers?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

The OEM unless it’s a Honda civic or accord between 2015 and 2019 then anything else DENSO If you’re lucky enough to have a car that originally comes with a Denso condenser then get that otherwise stick with your OEM or see if you can get an aftermarket DENSO Aftermarket, Motorcraft aftermarket, AC Delco

[@user-cs1ne8gx9u]

Yes hydrocarbons would be great. So much simpler and more efficient.

[@jasonsparks1726]

wow, excellent video. I learned alot.

[@willmcmillan9511]

How much moisture was in the desiccant bag when you weighed it?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

You cannot weigh the moisture in the desiccant bag due to the fact that it’s also saturated with Refrigerant oil after being put into use When it’s brand new, it’s clean and dry . As soon as it’s put into use the refrigerant oil from the refrigerant soaks into the desiccant material and adds wait just like a dry sponge, touching water

[@glenc90240]

I have a vintage '75 GMC motorhome with the original R-12 system, it may have been converted to R-134A I am restoring the the motorhome and was wondering what would be the best condenser to tru to install? How is the SC Delco Yukon condenser? I plan to use a newer compressor replacing the A6

[@coldfinger459sub0]

See if you can upgrade to a modern day, microchannel parallel flow, condenser the absolute, biggest one you can find. You might have to have some custom hose fittings made your hoses are old anyway, and should be replaced. Of course, replace your receiver dryer If you have a Thermal, San clutch the fluid driven type off the engine, replace that they go out a calibration. They don’t necessarily go bad. You will notice nothing on your radiator engine temperature, but they slow down and reduce the CFM of air delivered over your condenser. . If you have a electric fan upgraded to one of the higher output, new modern day, DC brushless fans that move air like a jumbo 747 jet engine . Have it connected to a pressure switch that only comes on when it hits a certain high side pressure like 180 psi or 250 psi, etc. for example Only thing is you will have to re-figure the cooling charge will be different with a different condenser . On those RVs change to a new expansion valve get rid of the old one it’s too old . They do have wearing parts inside of them they do move they have springs and it has a refrigerant charge. Bello in the top all these devices go out of calibration overtime.. don’t risk it replace it And because you’re doing this yourself and you have all the Time in the world, leave it on the vacuum pump overnight 24 hours you can never over vacuum you could just do a better job at removing a little bit more moisture 👍

[@glenc90240]

@@coldfinger459sub0 thanks, I've got so many upgrade ideas and questions. I'll use my Fieldpiece SM380V manifold with micron gauge... also will plan to purge with nitrogen and pressure test. My Cayenne uses a clutchless compressor .... I'm planning on a late model Yukon radiator and dual fan retrofit. Will install a full ECU system and can monitor and control many things, just need sensors.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@glenc90240 and I just remembered some RVs have very horrible airflow to deliver fresh cool outside air to that under hood area to the fan and to the blower in take Fresh Air to the passenger compartment. Some RVs take the hot air as fresh air under that little fiberglass front cover area, and that Air is way too hot to deliver as Fresh Air especially when you’re at standing idol in traffic If you have this scenario where you open up Fresh Air and it opens up inside underneath where the hot air is located try to figure some way to get a ram air affect from the cool outside air in front . Last minute thoughts

[@glenc90240]

@@coldfinger459sub0 thanks, yes I can get fresh air in front of radiator.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@glenc90240 I meant fresh air intake to the HVAC box from outside.

[@Bacongrease00]

I found my stock ford condenser in my 1996 bronco was beeeeefy compared to this aftermarket unit. I replaced it because I was told not to flush it. Doesn’t perform like it did before. Kinda sad. It was much thicker. Now I can’t get the same performance in high ambient temperatures :(

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@Bacongrease00 but the manufacture representative will say they have some toilet paper with specifications on it saying that there aftermarket quality condenser meets or exceeds OEM specification Then there’ll be some douche bag salesman who pushes the product back up that claim and say he believes it .

[@Bacongrease00]

@@coldfinger459sub0 basically. Should I go severe fan clutch and pull more air or just slap on an electric fan for summer 100F+ days here in az? Where should I mount the fan on the condenser?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@Bacongrease00 if there’s room for you to get a pull fan Or a push fan Just be careful you don’t mount it so it’s rubbing on the refrigerant tubes or radiator coolant tubes so rubbing doesn’t cause leaks. Spend the extra money to buy one of those extremely high-quality heavy duty output, racing type fans with brushless motors. Get the biggest one you could possibly fit in. You can get a temperature thermostat mount sensor to activate the relay for the fan. And you can attach the temperature sensor some of them can slip between the fins on the condenser some of them you can slip it on the compressor discharge line just before it enters the condenser or liquid line And you can match up with your gauges. So you can adjust the adjustable trim pot to kick in the sensor to activate the relay for the fan for example when the high side pressure reaches 225 psi or 250 psi. Kicks on the fan and then when the pressure gets down to 150 psi it kicks off the fan. This is just example It depends on the manufacturer, selling the thermostat, setting trim, pot, and temperature sensor But Arizona and Utah I’ve been there in the summer 110° when I open the doors on the vehicle to get out at the gas station and my sons all simultaneously jump back in the car and close the door and looked at each other and said what the fuck we were getting an oven. How do people live there? We are from San Francisco, where we have fog and an average of 68°F most of the year

[@efrensaclolo7021]

I bought aftermarket with lifetime warranty on it still works after 5 years.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

It all depends on if you get a good manufacture or a bad manufacture 🎲 🎲 it’s a odds game.

[@watchnlearn1001]

What brand?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@watchnlearn1001 it depends on what region of the country you’re in and what importer and exporter slaps their label on a particular brand. That’s it we’re talking about aftermarket. Many times an aftermarket will be purchased by several importers big-name vendors and have their sticker slapped on the box saying it is their product but really they are just in porters from either China or Thailand or South Africa or a few other countries. And many times it’s not possible for one manufacture to actually produce every year make model part this also goes for brake parts alternators starters intake manifolds that are aftermarket they will be what is called white box. You can have a manufacture that makes 60% of all their parts add a particular manufacture to their specifications we’re going to see their good high-quality parts. But may be 40% they outsource to other manufacturers and purchase them have them stuck in their box with their label but actually not their product this is win sometimes you could get poor quality products but with a good name on the front. I have in the past release several videos where I actually took pictures of the name of the product and a label on the front of the box that it was very poor quality. One of our large companies not to single anyone out but it’s a big name in our area in California. (i’m just using them as example) One 800 radiator’s, or maybe one of the other big names they often have possibly two lines of products of different quality. We’re going to say you have to ask for their premium quality or their platinum line to get a product that is very near OEM quality level sometimes equal. And every now and then you will actually get an OEM part white box in somebody else’s label but it actually came from my original manufacturer doesn’t happen often but it does happen. Give you an example with Ford at one time you can buy a Ford OEM box with a Ford parked say a condenser for $230. When you can go to a aftermarket nationwide chain warehouse distributor that carried the aftermarket division Motorcraft parts. And when you would purchase that exact same condenser with the Motorcraft label on the box the part might be $180 but it was exactly the same part out of the exactly the same manufactures warehouse. That’s one example. As for Japanese parts I tell everybody tried by DENSO because DENSO also has an aftermarket line that is at least better than some of the other aftermarket lines of products replacing the same DENSO original condenser. For German you had Bear and then the other manufacture I think was called Bella.

[@watchnlearn1001]

@@coldfinger459sub0Well I need a condenser and after a week Im still no closer to choosing one. Very frustrating.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@watchnlearn1001 completely understand. If DENSO Offers one for your car that’s a good aftermarket choice

[@southern_merican]

😂 i too want to stab my ears at work 😂 they dont know what "respectable volume " is. makes the job unsafe too because if you were shouting for help ,good luck😂

[@coldfinger459sub0]

Yes, the music is extremely loud in the shop. You’re not gonna have hearing damage from the air tools. They’re gonna have hearing damage from the music.

[@shazadtify]

Wow nice detailed explanation.

[@timmurphy9834]

Great video! I'm rebuilding the AC in a 1988 Toyota pickup. The OEM-style Denso serpentine condenser isn't available. So I got an FVP branded condenser (which looks identical to the OSC condenser). Parallel flow. Has more rows of fins than the OEM condenser. Is FVP a decent brand? And since this condenser is different than OEM do I need to add more/less oil and refrigerant, and how can I figure that out? Their product websites have limited info on capacity. Thanks!

[@coldfinger459sub0]

Depending on the design of the new micro channel condenser you may be adding less refrigerant. You are dumping out the old compressor oil and replacing with new PAG DENSO ND-8 ? That brand, I never hear of. The ratio of PAG to refrigerant is higher. So you will be adding one oz + more then what the factory called for. Definitely replace your fluid driven fan clutch if it has one.

[@timmurphy9834]

@@coldfinger459sub0 yes all components are new (evap, exp valve, compressor, condenser, fan clutch). Condenser is only non-oem part. Toyota service bulletin for R12 to R134a conversion gives oil and refrigerant quantities. Should I follow their guidelines are add 1oz more oil due to the condenser design? tms.cleanautoalliance.org/documents/ac002t98.pdf

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@timmurphy9834 yes I am well aware of the smaller condenser design and you would also never want the original design condenser for a retrofit on this vehicle because it was horrible I think it was only 12 fins per inch maybe 14. And if I remember correctly was that the serpentine that you mentioned style condenser.. Hard to advise somebody on a different refrigerant charge based off using temperatures or any other procedures on automotive kind of sucks compared to residential or commercial where can easily be achieved using superHeat or Subcooling. And on that system I would rather error on the side of a little bit more oil then a little less. And I always tell everybody who is doing it themselves you have all the Time in the world do not be afraid to leave the vacuum pump on overnight you can never over vacuum you only can do better by removing moisture. There’s nothing wrong with being too clean

[@timmurphy9834]

@@coldfinger459sub0 thanks for the advice!

[@baldelmarrodriguez3899]

So whats the best brand to buy? Oem Honda? Or Denso???

[@coldfinger459sub0]

Honda if possible then Denso if available

[@joseavilez9870]

Thank you

[@cf1005]

So does this apply to some of the smaller parts like the receive/drier and the expansion valve?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

I’ve seen cheap defective expansion valves not too often I’ve had two cheap Chinese receiver dryers that the tube that is placed inside under the site glass fell off inside the receiver dryer then it would not feed liquid it would only feed vapor Usually expansion valves and receiver dryers are a little more forgiving But heat exchangers are less forgiving when it comes to surface area and mass and volume

[@cf1005]

@@coldfinger459sub0 thanks for the info! You think denso would be a good a/m supplier? I've got a 2001 Honda CR-V with 101k miles I think it can go for much longer. I don't want go crazy replacing my a/c system but I also don't want to cheap out and would go OEM if need be.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@cf1005 Denzel for all foreign vehicles is my first choice for suppliers for an aftermarket source even if DENSO does not make or manufacture originally original equipment for that vehicle at least you’ll know they’re aftermarket source for a vehicle will not be bad

[@mustafakamil8390]

Dear, Im in Iraq and no way to get oem condencer, aftermarkets are cheap chinese. Can I fluah my original oem condencer? my nissan altima ac is facing black death

[@coldfinger459sub0]

No, if it is microchannel, and Condenser must be replaced no flushing Used cheap Chinese

[@MiamiWebDesign]

Good video. I was looking at a denso replacement for my 99 Tahoe. Can I flush my condenser out or is it pointless and needs to be replaced?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

If it is a Microchannel condenser it’s pointless to attempt to flush it out you just replace them. Microchannel condensers are excellent filters they actually catch and hold most of the Debris metal flakes piston ring material inside of them

[@MiamiWebDesign]

​@@coldfinger459sub0 What's a good aftermarket parallel condenser? OE for my truck is only serpentine but I'd like to upgrade. Any info on the carquest or autozone branded ones with the limited lifetime warranties? Thanks!

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@MiamiWebDesign I know nothing about Carquest or AutoZone even though we have them around here because I really was never fond of the junk that they sold. I would attempt to cross reference your car with the words Microchannel or parallel flow in the search terms on Google to see if a manufacture makes a modern version of your condenser for your vehicle If not if your creative good with your hands mechanically minded about making brackets altering things bending sheet metal little minor stuff like that making dependable attaching hardware. I would attempt to cross reference a parallel flow condenser from some other vehicle an SUV a van a truck by looking Adam taking a tape measure and finding something that measures you could look it up in magazines that give the dimensions of condensers and use that as your judgment of what might fit on your vehicle And then make up your own hoses and fittings or have them made for you to fit the different placement because they probably will not match exactly You could look at SUVs and vans that may have dual air conditioning front and rear evaporators to give you a higher BTU condenser and just try to make it work

[@MiamiWebDesign]

@@coldfinger459sub0 Thanks for your reply. I found two brands that look decent and that sell parallel flow models for my truck on rockauto. One is CSF that makes racing radiators and condensers kzbin.info/www/bejne/mJTRnpuaq7CCgsk. The other one is GDP kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZmYY4h6eMSVjM0 I appreciate your help.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@MiamiWebDesign yes either one of those will do any Microchannel parallel flow condenser will be better than an old style serpentine. But you may find a refrigerant charge quantity might be a bit less. I usually do not recommend using the site glass as an indicator. But in this case because you will have a modified condenser whatever your sticker says your original charge was it will be less. It’s OK to occasional he say a bubble or to drift passed your site glass in this situation. It’s better that you charge the vehicle on one of your hottest days available. If you have specifications from the manufacturer tell you what rpm to run for testing air conditioning use that otherwise 1200 RPMs to 1500 RPMs somewhat of a guide. Just think about at what rpm would you be going down the street at 35 miles an hour Have your doors and windows open fresh air mode And slowly start charging your vehicle remember keep at least a half pound low or maybe less go one or 2 ounces at a time and weight five minutes in between each addition This is one of the problems when you drastically change one style for another style. If your vehicle has a engine mounted fluid thermal fan clutch and it’s over five or 10 years old and 50,000 miles or more just change it don’t even question it.

[@SultansIsle]

A person is hard pressed to find a condenser that _IS NOT_ aftermarket. Even dealer condensers are often aftermarket renames.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

What country are you in where the dealer is using aftermarket Here, in most of the United States, dealers refused to use aftermarket

[@SultansIsle]

@@coldfinger459sub0 The so called dealer issue items can often be traced back to after market makers. I look for identifiers such as numbers on castings, or embedded stamps. Name brands aren't always name brands, they just have the name on the package, not the part.

[@Fanzindel]

“Supposably” was not the word you were looking for 😉

[@lm7bird680]

Ever heard of someone using a receiver drier and an accumulator at the same time in an oriface tube system. I'm building an AC system from scratch

[@coldfinger459sub0]

I’ve heard about it on a expansion valve system not an orifice tube system

[@lm7bird680]

@@coldfinger459sub0 any particular reason why nobody puts receiver driers in oriface tube systems?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@lm7bird680 money is probably the first factor. As long as it’s not too big of a dryer you wouldn’t have to worry about so much refrigerant that would keep bleeding through the orifice going through the evaporator that you would overfill the accumulator and possibly suck down some refrigerant through the upper part of the tube as it foams up when it starts up. They use expansion valves because they’re more efficient they have a wider range of operation and they keep a constant control in their self protecting so there’s no floodback to the compressor Where orifice tubes are very limited in the range of operation they’re either starve or there’s too much a little more energy consuming another reason they went away from orifice tubes they don’t give a steady temperature. Orphis tubes and automobiles were only used because they were cheap and they were simple

[@lm7bird680]

@@coldfinger459sub0 I've been considering getting a variable oriface tube for better all around efficiency, are those a reliable alternative to trying to figure out a way to convert to an expansion valve.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@lm7bird680 yes, read the instructions

[@mustyali9529]

I have a 2006 Acura TSX, what aftermarket condenser do you recommend. The Oem is over $300.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

I do not have no OEM part number or recommendation aftermarket Alternative. Because it varies so much from state to state from region to country. But if you can find an aftermarket source for DENSO That has been the most reliable highest quality condenser through aftermarket channels that I have been able to acquire

[@Devo1987]

@@coldfinger459sub0 Great video you smart man A+ Alot of my A/C Condenser fins are bent over and i have a limited income . What A/C Condenser would you recommend of a 2006 Mazda 3s 2.3l ?

[@mglsite]

I just ordered an aftermarket condenser for my 2000 Astro Van. I don't know if they even make OEM for it anymore. I

[@coldfinger459sub0]

Probably would not want to an OEM for one so old. Advancements in micro parallel, flow condensers are more efficient than the condensers. They produced back then. . Especially if you had dual air-conditioning front and rear . and you live in a hot climate you definitely want higher capacity, larger condenser if at all possible I see when looking on Google they do have microchannel condensers available for that vehicle

[@mglsite]

@@coldfinger459sub0 Thanks, I figured what ever I got has got to be better that 25 year old AC tech

[@willmcmillan9511]

The smaller the tubes the greater the head pressure when converting piccoloflow to parallel flow. Never had any luck. Whey try to reinvent the wheel. Most of the factory engineers get it right.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

Even though the two passages are smaller, if the condenser size is size properly, and they add more rows of tubes, pressure will actually be the same or less because those smaller openings in passages with more things inside actually make it more efficient in a transfers, heat faster lowering the temperature of the Refrigerant Lorene, the pressure of the refrigerant. Oh, you’ll notice on all the microchannel parallel flow condensers in my videos, especially on the cooler days you’ll see a high side pressure somewhere around 90 psi summer. Mom has the lowest 66 psi on the high side.

[@bountyhunter1890]

Whats your thoughts on aftermarket receiver driers?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

Ok ,, I only got two defective ones were the tube dropped down causing only vapor to go to the expansion valve

[@bountyhunter1890]

@@coldfinger459sub0 How did you diagnose that problem? Low pressure on the high side?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@bountyhunter1890 I can literally see all the bubbles coming up through the site glass in the top of the receiver dryer. Then when I looked down through the glass inside I could literally see the straw has dropped down and tilted sideways through the glass. And when pounding on the side of the receiver dryer I could see it move a little bit.

[@bountyhunter1890]

@@coldfinger459sub0 What was the gauges doing or was they not attached?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@bountyhunter1890 It was too long ago I don’t remember but I don’t think the gauge would react. There would be no impedance to refrigerant flow You would just be getting vapor to the expansion valve and suffer from low cooling output. You would get some cooling but not much because you’re feeding the expansion valve vapor gas instead of liquid. I’ve seen some receiver dryers installed backwards several times that do the exact same thing. It feeds the expansion valve nothing but vapor you still get cooling out of the dash just not as much

[@ericoppel5698]

My car is a 25 year old Daihatsu Charade. No OEM condensers are available from anywhere. Even a direct replacement aftermarket one is not available. It looks like I will have no choice other than buying some sort of universal one, (which has different fittings, not the pad type like the original) , and somehow modify it to fit. :-(

[@coldfinger459sub0]

Fittings are available aftermarket there’s several different manufacturers that make all the different kind of fittings for all the different kinds of condensers that could be adapted to new hoses If you want a high-quality condenser you could try to size one up by dimensions from a brand new Toyota it will have the most highest efficiency modern condenser design. Of course custom brackets will have to be made to attach it anywhere all that is a sheet metal not complicated not rocket science. If you go onto some of the condenser manufacturers websites they have what is called an illustration guide where they will show you the picture of the condenser and also have down the dimensions with the height the length.

[@ericoppel5698]

@@coldfinger459sub0 Thanks for the advice. Good to know about the fitting adapters. I will have to try to figure out what they are called and find a online seller, as I am in a country town in Australia and the car is currently partly dismantled for repairs (bumper, grille, radiator and airconditioner condenser, compressor and reciever dryer are all currently removed for replacement) and I can't take it anywhere to have it done.

[@ingdan6786]

👏👏👏👏

[@andyandrei7887]

What producer you choose for aftermarket condensator?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

Not me. Here in the USA , if you have car insurance most of the insurance company make or try to a independent automotive autobody repair shops use cheap aftermarket parts. I’m a subcontractor ( vender) who specializes in providing refrigerant recovery, ac diagnosis for problems, refrigerant leak finding, Refrigerant recharging service. I may service up to 8 different shops a day , a few thousand cars a year so I get to see and work on the worst and best parts and repairs many times a day. So I get to see problems caused by some poor quality aftermarket condensers most other technicians my never see or don’t understand that the problems they are having are caused by the condenser because it new and the don’t know it’s a poor quality aftermarket part.

[@hnd2893]

At least it ain't rap music :O)

[@mr.aleximer]

OK i swear i hear Serbian folk song in the background :D

[@coldfinger459sub0]

I did not hear it but I was not paying attention I tried re-listening to the music in the background but it was not clear enough for me and I would not know what the Siberian folk song sound like

[@mr.aleximer]

@@coldfinger459sub0 It is Serbian ( Nicola Tesla, Novak Djokovic...) not Siberian ( Russia) :D Good video btw :)

[@tr4u5mp90]

Its a Mexican group named Grupo Exterminador... Multi-task

[@cesardubon1]

Dam no wonder the denso condenser cools better

[@watchnlearn1001]

All well and good but you are replacing that so-called terrific OEM condenser when the vehicle is a year old. ALL JUNK!!!

[@coldfinger459sub0]

Isn’t it beautiful when you the customer think you’re getting a good deal with a cheap insurance company with a discount rate or a high deductible rate. By saving money on your insurance with a bad insurance company and going to one of their direct repairs that they have a contract with to use cheap aftermarket parts to get all their business into their shop. By the customer being unknowing lack of knowledge and not reading all the fine print when they sign the dotted line to get that cheap insurance policy they get exactly what they paid for. What the average public consumer does not know about the insurance company business is that those preferred shops on their list they tell you to go to our in their pocket to get money and agree to fix the cars at a cheaper rate with cheaper parts just to have those customers crash car steered into their shop. And that’s what this video is all about to show the customers how they’re getting cheated by installing pieces of junk that is mandated by their insurance company

[@watchnlearn1001]

@@coldfinger459sub0 I hear ya! So the choice is OEM that cools best but blows out, or aftermarket that cools less and blows out. I guess OEM is technically the best but they all are just garbage as a whole.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@watchnlearn1001 Take the example of Honda recently on their records and their civics from 2015 to 2019 I’ve been having a lot of leaks I would not want to replace it with a original Honda condenser from the same manufacture and have it leak again in another year or two in that case I would go after market and try to search for the best manufacture I can if I could look up the specifications on their spec sheet from the manufacture on their website listing and indicating the exact number of fins per inch and the exact number of cooling two passages. Just like when you’re buying tires do you want a passenger car tire that has a low load rating and low speed rating that you cannot put on a heavy truck or bounce over curves with because they will blow out you look at the ratings Or you could buy the same size tire in a heavy duty truck tire with a load rating of D or E what has many sidewall plies and face tread place that you can throw 2 tons in the back of the vehicle at the same time drive right over a curb at high speed without blowing out the tire. It is a choice options that you can pick from a spec sheet.