Air Compressor Conversion! Out With Old, In With the New!! 120v to 240v motor and new pump!

Gutting out an air compressor that is extremely weak, loud and inefficient for a better motor and pump. Utilizing Harbor Freight for the new pump and motor. And fabricating from scratch all the custom work necessary to make this happen.

[@lrod1966]

That fitting is JIC 14. Take it to anyone that makes hydraulic hoses and get a rubber hose to go from the compressor to the tank. Put a check valve in the tank inlet. Also to make slots you can put an end mill in your drill press, use a fence as a guide and push the plate, slowly with light pressure. Make sure to only drill a start hole, no end hole. You can put an amp meter on 1 leg of the power to see how fast you can spin the compressor without going over the rated amps on the motor.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Nice! A great amount of information. Thank you.

[@TF856]

You don't have to mount those items on to the tank if you don't want to. My dad's first big air compressor was in two separate units. The motor and pump were on one platform and only connected to the tank with a hose sitting side-by-side.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thank you for the comment

[@Fordcertian]

Dude, I'm a pipefitter, shipfitter, grade a #1 struckuall Steele fitter, there's a difference between NPT and tubing, pipe inside measurements tubing outside measurements! You just need a coupling to join them. Those people at the store ain't stupid but they can't tell you what they don't know! God Bless you and yours!

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Its fine. thnx for the comment

[@gergemall]

God bless you. Beautiful music. Love the video

[@richardportelli1983]

Belt should be at the back of the tank away from your fittings etc.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thanks for the comment Richard!

[@CharlesPaich]

Good job! I enjoyed your work. Thank you for sharing!

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thank you for the comment!

[@bigdaddysshop8180]

Beautiful pond

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thnx for the comment

[@jamesbrady2156]

I am looking at this video and seeing that my next compressor will be purchased as a complete unit rather than modified using my old tank. Thanks for the lesson.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Do not let watching me fumble around with this project discourage you. Anybody with more skill and practice than me might make this look easier. I try to portray what it looks like for the average person. Each individual situation is going to be different. It is going to depend on the amount of motivation of the person, amount of time to finish the project, compatibility of the new equipment and condition of the old equipment. Plus the cost. Can not remember how much I discussed it, but the cost of new 220v, belt driven, oil cooled compressors has skyrocketed. So off to the project i went.

[@retrokirito5428]

All I read is you can’t do it. Which is fine but don’t try and blame it on this guy and how he did it or went about it. He never claimed to be a master air compressor converter. Like he said in his comment maybe depending on whatever you’re more proficient in might make it easier to build or convert something like this. All your comment says is “I have zero engineering capability and lack so much fabrication skill that if the video isn’t an EXACT how to I can’t do it 👎🏻 😠” kick rocks and maybe learn how to do something instead of writing useless KZbin comments. Maybe learn how to fabricate something yourself 😂

[@TF856]

The pulies should be on the back not on the front. I would also highly recommend moving the whole manifold setup farther away from the moving parts bringing them outward using pipe elbows. And you must be missing a check valve going into the tank. That's why it is leaking backwards through the pump and coming out of that vent. You may also want to add an unloader to that system. It will make it easier for the pump to start up in cold weather.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thank you for the comment

[@cordelleustache9031]

You have to change the direction that the motor spins .The pulley on the pump works as a fan so it should spin in the opposite direction.And you need to put a check valve on the tank input.That's why air is leaking from the pump.

[@PaulThomas-qo9vy]

Yes Flywheel/Fan rotation MUST be Counter-clockwise (viewing flywhl/Fan from Flywhl. side). The fan blades always need to blow cooling air into & across the pump cooling fins! (Look for small Arrow cast into a fin & mark with white paint for easy reference.) 2nd)Splash-lube systems must "bounce" the splashed oil off of engineered internal angles to direct the oil to the necessary lube & cooling points. Running it bass-ackwards will starve something for oil & cause premature failure. 3rd) Finally, Running a pump bass-ackward will cause low pressure or volume performance. I have an HF 3hp pump like yours & and have great service from it. Now, I want to finish my 5hp HF V-twin 30 gal. gas powered portable comp. For the best hobby sized near-passive aftercooler moisture removal system info. on YT,, See engineer Doug Kronemeyer's "DIY #9", 3 video series, loaded with engineers logic & knowledge at budget prices. Copy everything & get clean, super dry air BEFORE it rusts your tank out! Also a shoutout to Bud Stiner, THE Compressor Guru for tutorial DIY repair, diagnostic & parts. Good teaching, these guys! Good luck & learning Sir! Oh, yes also to a larger pilot/unloader valve to drain the air off the pump to stop leaks & make startups easy on the motor! Paul from S. Central Tx. (Temp was 102°F yesterday!

[@mod_incllc3235]

Great info here! I was going to add a similar comment but this covers it and more! It's been awhile and this is the first video of yours to show up in my feed. You're earned my sub just going through all that you did to make this compressor. After doing all that you did to fabricate/modify this compressor do you think it was worth all of the time, effort, and expense? I'd love to see a breakdown of each! Nice work. I'll check out some of your other videos.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thanks for the comment Cordell. I will be fixing this problem soon!

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thank you for the comment!

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thank you for the comment!!

[@Myrddraalfade]

I did a similar conversion myself, I found out half way through that altering the handle and mounting the pump/motor assembly facing the handle was a lot safer than having moving belts above the power switch and air outlet. Cut the handle and used some heavy conduit L's and pipe to bring it out about 6"-7" for safety, with a cage.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thanks for the comment. I have a part 2 and 3 follow up if you would like to watch. Thanks.

[@williamsmith3872]

It sure looks like the big pulley is either mounted backwards on the pump or the pump is supposed to run in the other direction. I surmised that fact due to the fan blades should be blowing toward the pump motor.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Your a little bit late to the party. Hope you catch up watching the next 2 videos in this series. Thanks for the comment.

[@williamsmith3872]

I want to compliment you on the great work your doing. Thanks for sharing👍

[@Goldwing1500rider]

Kwel project, wheels should be in the back like the review says. I just put a new motor on mine after 30 years. I wouldn't mind doing that kind of project. Its fun!! Lol

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thnx for the comment

[@richardschaffling9882]

Great build I have a two old compressors on vertical and a horizontal one the horizontal one the tank and motor were shot but had a good pump and mount and the vertical one had a oil less compressor on it that was shot and a good tank so I think I am going to do what you did thanks

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

@@richardschaffling9882 Thanks for the comment. Hope it all works out.

[@dontblameme6328]

Your paw paw's old homemade compressor is made from an antique refrigerator. Common thing to do back in the day. I have one that was my dad's.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thank you for the comment.

[@mpowersmedia3219]

Sure you have already figured this out but just for future reference. There are different types of threading used. NPT and what I call straight threads cause I can't remember the abbreviation but if you have compression style it won't be NPT cause NPT are tapered, just research it and it will be explained and will save you much frustration in the future, this was my dilemma also and how I learned it. Also you can make any size V belt you need by splicing it together and it works great for your application. I spliced a belt for my drill press 5 years ago and it's still going strong. I watched a you tube video to figure out the best method . Great video btw

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thanks for the comment.

[@wmjohnson7063]

I would switch pump and motor and you’d have more clearance for everything. Oh well life goes on.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thanks for the comment

[@halfstep67]

Do you have a check valve at the tank where the inlet line enters? If not, that is probably why you are leaking air thru the pump.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

I am currently trying to find a good check valve to use. Please watch my 2nd part of this video series!! kzbin.info/www/bejne/fqm6d62ioZ2Voq8

[@EricHeran]

💯 the check valve would save your tank pressure, and relieve yourself of the backpressure. I am doing a twin pump conversion on my old husky I got almost 20 years ago. My single pump has made it for this long. I beat the tar out of that pump! Love the platform conversion, and I was so excited for you to discover the 3/4 npt! It really cleaned up the plumbing! Outside of the check valve this is a really fantastic model, and your skills and improvisation is apparent. I feel like I found my kind of people.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thank you for the comment!

[@ericschulze5641]

I'm about to do the same thing with a craftsman, however I have decided to mount the pump and motor separately, the small bracket is designed for the lightweight small pump and motor, putting a longer mount will cause stress cracks and possible explosion, so unless you weld the bracket to the tank, like you see on similar compressors with sepeate pump and motor, your taking a big risk , so is welding to the tank ,I'd recommend mounting them separately from the tank

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

While I would assume this is a possibility to occur, I would think it is a mistake to assume this is the case for all situations. It is something to consider. In the situation of mine, the bracket is heavy and welded well. The tank is also in brand new condition. All situations will be different.

[@ericschulze5641]

I wouldn't chance it, your old enough to remember putting 8 cyl. Engines in 6 cyl. Cars yea they were in perfect condition yea they worked. . . For a while. . . & then stress cracks developed and frames and suspension broke , putting double or triple the weight and vibrations on that bracket isn't a good idea, it WILL cause a stress crack

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Once again, the condition of each situation is different and all the manufacturers and quality is different. I will chance it. It will out live me. Thanks for the comment.

[@carlosabreu922]

wrap belts are indestrutable ! That is the reason are used on lawn mower were clutching and slipping in needs! Compressor don't Try a DayCo AX##Gl (## = number related to you pulley's center to center distance) Good luck

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thnx for the comment

[@carlosabreu922]

OOh Yeah Never Forget the Old 710

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thnx for the comment

[@DesertSurfer]

I don't see a check valve in there or pressure bleed.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Hopefully coming soon!!

[@a.c.m.e.ink.4568]

No more 'oilless' compressors for me. I learn my lesson after a nearly $300.00, purchase failed. Within 2 years time it died. It had replaced an old '1978' Sears lubricated compressor. The motor had failed on that one. That same compressor, just got a new motor & is working again.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Sometimes you get a good one. Sometimes you get a dud. A guy i worked for, had a pancake style compressor of the same brand as I am renovating out. He had that thing for years and years. Who knows how many hundreds of hours of use.

[@mafed451]

Your fitting is not npt. It’s an AN. You need to flare a piece of tubing then slide the coupling nut and a ferrule on and torque it down. Or get an AN hose with a 90 degree fitting on it to route under your platform.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thank You for the comment.

[@halfstep67]

@@englishcustomworkshop6503 Both the AN and JIC are the same sized fittings. AN is Army/Navy fittings and have tighter thread tolerances than JIC. But both are cross-compatible. A lot of the AN fitting are aluminum and should not be used for hydraulics but the JIC can be used for anything that AN is used for. AN are often used for fuel/brake lines. AN sizes are in numbers like -6 or -8 or -10. Those number represent 1/16" so a -6 is 6/16 which is 3/8", -8 is 8/16 which is 1/2", -10 is 10/16 which is 5/8". There are smaller and larger sizes as well. Copper TUBING is measured from the OUTSIDE diameter. 1/2" copper tubing would have an outside diameter of 1/2" and an inside diameter of 3/8". Copper PIPE is measured from the INSIDE diameter. 1/2" copper pipe would have an outside diameter of 5/8" and an inside diameter of 1/2". If using 1/2" copper tubing, you would use an AN-8 size fitting or a JIC 1/2" fitting. If using 1/2" copper pipe, you would use an AN-10 size fitting or a JIC 5/8" fitting. Copper tubing and copper pipe comes in different types. Type K, Type L, Type M. Type K is the thickest walled and is mainly used when buried underground. Type L is a medium thickness and is commonly used for water lines for houses. Type M is used for light pressure applications. Even though these different Types will have different wall thickness, the outside diameter will remain the same, but the inner diameters will slightly change to accommodate the change in wall thickness. That way, the same fittings will fit the different Types. This applies for both tubing and pipe. Type L is 40% thicker walled than Type M. Type L has .40 thick wall and Type M has .28 thick wall. When using cooper pipe for air/water lines, use the Type L as it is stronger and is better for flaring. Standard plumbing uses a 45-degree flare but the AN and JIC use a 37 degree. So, when using AN and JIC, you will need to use a flaring tool that is 37 degrees. These 37-degree flaring tools are less common and more expensive. A cheap one runs about $50 and a good one runs about $140. Check Home Depot website for the good one. Som people will use a 45-degree flaring tool for the 37-degree flare and claim it will self-correct once the nut is tightened. AN fittings come is aluminum, steel, stainless steel. JIC comes in steel. Both the AN and JIC come in a lot of different configurations and adapters so there are many different options for reducing/expanding or going from NPT thread to AN/JIC. They will fit both tubing and pipe and flare fittings and compression fittings.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Obviously took a long time to type all of that out. Appreciate the info. Thanks for the comment.

[@carlosabreu922]

as long treads are pt (pipe tubing) won't leak a zip !

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thnx for the comment

[@carlosabreu922]

A 3/4' u-joint instead the 3/4' male adapter to solder

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thnx for the comment

[@781coolmind]

enjoyed the video but what was the cost to do this? time cost vs buying

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

There are multiple videos in this series. All are helpful. I believe i talked cost in the last video

[@carlosabreu922]

Actualy switch places beteen motor and pump would give the clearanc you what without the contraption of the discharge franken tube

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thnx for the comment

[@carlosabreu922]

Good Job ! Too much over built, that's a Shermans Tank! If you did switch things around and cut some of the useless handle you may attach the pulley cover to it!

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thnx for the comment

[@LBCAndrew]

Oof.... motor and pump are mounted wrong. The pulleys should be in the rear so you don't lose a hand while its running.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

It is amazing that everyone didnt just keel over from stupidity before all of these online safety karens came around

[@christophersherratt7299]

You could of used a reinforced bath water pipe know soldering and put a check valve on to 80bar

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thnx for the comment

[@chrisjacobs1566]

Don’t matter which side the motor is on. Clockwise is clockwise.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

What about if your in the southern hemisphere standing on your head Thnx for the education

[@PreacherDan]

Do you have a check valve?

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Like in my pocket? I have 67cents in my pocket. Watch the other videos in the series for other info.

[@tonyash8080]

Do you have a check valve at the tank? Back feeding into the compressor head?

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Stay tuned for my next video. I address the issue further. There is also a 2nd video to this project already on my channel. Thnx for the comment.

[@carlosabreu922]

Hey there is nothing like CRAFTMAN's

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thnx for the comment

[@alandavis4885]

I need a new head for that exact same pump! Any idea where to pick one up? Nice build btw! ... 😁👍

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Sorry. I do not. Thank you for the comment.

[@ericschulze5641]

Scrap metal guys, you have to keep stopping them and ask give them your phone number

[@ericschulze5641]

Hey ! HE has one what's the deal ? He's probably going to throw it in the scrap pile, maybe he lives within driving distance or would take $50. For the pump

[@rayjones463]

on 1/4 inch like you have their it would have been faster to drill the 4 corner holes and use an angle grinder to cut 1 slot all the way between holes...oh well

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Did not want a slot that long. Thanks for the comment.

[@alanshaw4655]

pump is spinning the wrong way, fan blades should force air over the pump, not away from it, pump pully needs to spin counter clockwise sir.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thanks for the comments Alan! Hope you watch the follow on videos! New video coming soon. Please consider subscribing.

[@grahammctygue724]

Can you change orientation of manifold to match you input ,hard line to tank should be fine pictured in strucktion,s be safe Peace

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Possible. I think it might be obstructed by the electric box on the motor tho.

[@thisone.]

@@englishcustomworkshop6503 I have seen some suggest reversing the head of the pump so the outlet is on the opposite side, if it is symmetrical that is. Also if you want to reduce the db''s try adding an intake muffler. When I added one to mine it reduced it a good deal. Also adding sound deadener like rattletrap to the tank in a few spots can reduce the vibration/ the noise it creates. Kinda like a bell tinging sound.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thank you for the comment!

[@Fordcertian]

How is compressed air possibly leaking through an oil breather for the pump, this is a red flag!

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Who knows. Its foreign made. Thnx for the comment

[@Fordcertian]

When copper ages it turns brittle!

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Its fine. Thnx for the comment

[@stuartnevins8098]

The money you spent on the motor and the pump you could have just bought a new compressor. What u did was bought two sandborne blackmax 3 hp belt driven compressors for seventy bucks each. I got a 60 gal tank and a 33 gallon tank for 125 for both. I synchronized to cut in and out and run them at the same time. For about 300 bucks i got 93 gallons of air and about 16 cfms. The set up works great and because its two it keeps the water to a minimum.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

I’ve got a great idea for you. Create your own youtube channel where you make your own videos. Film this masterpiece project of yours. Then let the internet tell you how you did everything wrong and spent too much money. And no, its not even close to the same amount as a new compressor. Thnx for the comment.

[@carlosabreu922]

You burn up your tank check valve

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thnx for the comment

[@denniscasey4967]

😮😮😮. DiD YOU PUT PNE WAU VALVE FROM M

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

What??

[@mafed451]

NAPA can make you a hose.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thank you.

[@MarkK01]

You should have broken in the pump by letting it run with no load for 30 minutes.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Hello Mark Did you just make this information up? Do you have anything from a Harbor Freight manual that says this? Mine does not. Only that you change the oil after 1 hour of use. Which i did off camera.

[@MarkK01]

@@englishcustomworkshop6503Any new compressor needs 1/2 hr of no load to break in the air compressor. This is not made up. In fact I watch another video where the guy got the pump from HF and he even confirmed that it needs 1/2hr no load break in.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

@@MarkK01 Not that its a bad idea. But just because someone on youtube says it, or a commenter says it, does it mean its true. It is NOT in my manual. Carry on Mark.

[@MarkK01]

@@englishcustomworkshop6503I have had many compressors over the years and they all need a no load break in period. Whether it has been 15 -30 minutes. I do not want to start a argument with you. I am just going on my experience. And I have had some high end Makita compressors. You do what you want with this info. I am just trying to help you out.

[@alanshaw4655]

that is a compression nut, trying to screw onto a flare !..lol. its china..go figure !!. remove the flare crap all the way out of the air exhaust, install a reducer down to what ever size pipe you want to go into the tank.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thanks for the comment. Hope you watch the follow on video!

[@alanshaw4655]

@@englishcustomworkshop6503 yep..watched it, you did great !.

[@Fordcertian]

Do not hook that copper up without a flex at top and bottom! Take a fools advice!

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Its fine. thnx for the comment

[@MrMac5150]

Dislike the music, be better without it.

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Some like it. Some dont. Cant make everyone happy. Not gonna try.

[@denniscasey4967]

😮😮😮,,,I DON'T THINK DIS GUY KNOWS WHAT DAY IT IS ,,,🤪🤪. VOTE BLUE FOREVER STAND TALL 🎉🎉🎉

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Not sure?

[@denniscasey4967]

@@englishcustomworkshop6503 😇😇. ,,WELL The QUESTION IS DO YOU KNOW WHAT HE IS OR IS .NOT DOING ❓ THIS CAT,,SURE PUTIN OUT THE TIME ,,, HE SEEMS TO DO THING ONLY ONE WAY. ,,,LOTS OS EXTRA WORK. ,,I've DONE THINGS JUST LIKE THIS YEARS AGO ,,, NICE JOB BHE DID IN KINDA FINISHING UNIT ,,, ONLY TIME WILL TEACH SOME FOLKS ,, HE DID WELL. SHOWING EACH STEPS ,,,,👍. No SURE BUT ONE POST VIDEO CHANGED LEFT OUT TANK ONE WAY CHECK VALVE OUT. ,,FINISH ,,, 140 PSI N TANK SHUT OFF ,,, AIR LEAKING BIG TIME THRU CRANK CASE VENT. , TANK PRESSURE Bleeding OFF BACK THRU COMPR. TANK BELEAF DOWN TO ZERO. ,,CHECK VALVE IN TANK. ,,, HIS LACK OF KNOLAGE OF TANK PRESSURE 140 OR 275 PSI THATS NOT THE TANK RATING. 2 TYPES OF TANKS ,, 1 NON CERTIFIED 2 IS CERTIFIED THEY WILL HAVE A WELDED INFO TAG ON TANK. ,,, THEY WILL TELL YOU # LIKE 250 AREA ,,WHAT HE SAYING IS THE RATING OF UNIT WHAT THE PIMP OUT PUT IS ,,NOTHING TO DO WITH TANK RATING ,,, DID NICE VIDEO BUT SOME THINGS NOT REAL ,,,MADE MY FIRST AIR COMP. GRAND DAD ,,,FATHER AND ME STILL HAVE IT TODAY,, FROM A TIME WHEN THERE WERE None TO BE HAD ONLY REAL UNITS ,,,NOW I HAVE 3 ,,SELL THEM ON THE SIDE ,,THANKS

[@LouisDePalma-id8yy]

Simple solution, get an lp flexable gas line to fit

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Thank you for the comment.

[@denniscasey4967]

😮😮😮,, FROM COPPER TO TANK ❓ IF NOT PUMP HEAD CRANK CASE AIR LEAK. (( ONE WAY VALVE. )) AT TANK 140 PSI PUISH BACK THRU VALES PAST RINGS TO CRANK CASE VENT ,, NEEDEDTO SET UP DOFFERENT ,,, VOTE BLUE FOREVER STAND TALL 🎉🎉

[@englishcustomworkshop6503]

Huh?