✅ Building a Better Air Compressor for My Garage for DIRT CHEAP !

[@fix206]

Lots of people suggested that I should use the second tank that I got as an expansion tank to double the amount of air being stored. That idea did cross my mind, but in my situation I just did not see the need for that. The new air pump easily out pumps the amount of air being used even if I am continuously painting. Just wanted to put it out there 😊

[@PhillipHall01]

Good reasoning.

[@1D10CRACY]

I have the same compressor head and it's been good to me for sure! It's sitting on a 100lb propane tank and I believe we figured out it was only about 25ish gallons of air. I always thought someday I'd add a second tank for storage. I mainly use the compressor for painting and media blasting. After using it for two or three years now, I just don't see the need. The compressor keeps up with painting and blasting with no issues and cycles adequately. I think if you were using multiple air tools at once or even using a larger DA that it may be worth looking into, but for what I do, it's fine. Nice build and clear video style BTW.

[@johncarlson7955]

I must agree with the second tank,,, volume of air is the key for painting and sandblasting…

[@fix206]

I don't do much of sand blasting, but I've done quite a bit of painting over the period of time that I've had my new compressor and I haven't felt the need for expansion just yet, but if at any point the need will arise then I can always easily add another tank

[@markmooney4770]

I was going to suggest adding the 2nd tank to double your air capacity. While you might not need it, it wouldn't hurt, and would make use of something you already have.

[@sithsiri]

I have so much respect for him testing this thing for a year before posting it, it shows he cares

[@fix206]

Thanks man ! Yeah I didn't want to make a video on something that didn't get thoroughly tested first... And I'm happy to report that 2 years later compressor is still running like a champ 👍

[@famguyluvr]

How we doing three years on? ​@@fix206

[@DoRC]

Just as an added explanation about the oil. The reason you have to use non-detergent oil is because detergents are designed to keep contaminants suspended in the oil so they can get filtered out. In an engine without filtration you want the contaminants to fall to the bottom and stay there.

[@richardchambers256]

Thx. Good to know!

[@frankvadnais3536]

Thanks, it’s been so many years, since I originally heard that I had completely forgotten the reasoning.

[@rwcraver]

I hear you, but I'm sold on synthetic oil due to the heat compressors make. A particular shop I worked at went through 2 Ingersoll 80 gallon 5 horse compressors in about 10 years, the third one we drained and filled with 5W30 Mobil1 before we ever fired it up, it was still going 9 years later when I moved on.

[@kellyvcraig]

Another thing to keep in mind is, foaming. Non-detergents do not foam.

[@802Garage]

@@rwcraver I switched to synthetic 5W-30 or 0W-40 in my cheap air compressor as well. Even with synthetic 30 it wouldn't start in the winter worth crap, now it runs great. My cheap Harbor Freight compressor has made it like 10 years hahaha.

[@TheEffoff]

Okay, spinning the tank on two dolly’s strapped together is next level.

[@fix206]

😎

[@KenFullman]

@@fix206 As a tip, if you're ever attempting to pressure test a vessel, you should fill it mostly with water. You can then add compressed air to increase the pressure up to your test. Since water is non compressible, you'll only need a very small amount of air to reach your chosen test pressure. Which makes it very quick, but the biggest difference is safety. In the event of a rupture only a small amount of fluid (air or water) will be released before the contents are back to ambient pressure. The nett effect is to make any catastrophic failure far less dramatic. A squirt of water is far safer than the top of the cylinder launching itself towards you at the speed of sound and that's the kind of difference it makes.

[@jakeandrules7724]

Awesome, i agree with a lot of what you did. The 2 things id change is after cleaning the tank, throw a gallon or 2 of phosphoric acid to convert any rust, basically stopping it dead in its tracks. Drain and let it dry and coat the inside of the tank with an epoxy paint. Thing will last forever

[@spanishtreasure9551]

lemon or any kind of orange or citrus juice works also

[@BigElCat]

I've done a compressor tank using 'red kote' gas tank sealer. It works excellent. The longer it gets used, the more it becomes like 'ceracoat'.

[@OtherDalfite]

​@@spanishtreasure9551does lemon juice really convert rust?

[@gussfoundry7600]

@@OtherDalfite no it doesn't convert it, it "eats" it as does hydrochloric acid still need to rinse out well and coat with something like epoxy. Phosporic acid converts the rust but i still think it should be coated

[@AlanMydland-fq2vs]

drain the water out often too

[@dathat555]

I like how you performed the pressure test behind the tree, far from your house, and closer to the neighbor's house. 🙂 Thanks for the video. I plan to build something similar.

[@fix206]

That's right, safety first 😁 I figured it was far enough away from my house to where it's not going to cause any damage in the case of catastrophic failure and even though from that point to the neighbors house wasn't all that far I figured that the chain-link fence would slow the tank down enough to where it won't make it all the way to their house either 🤣

[@kevinfloyd808]

Since water does not compress, very little energy if it had ruptured, that amount of air pressure would have been a catostrophic failure, with water it would have just been a loud pop and little explosive power.. I saw someone do the same except without filling the tank with water, found pieces 600 feet away and steel imbeded several inches into a tree. Luckily they were Intending on exploding the tank so it was done remotely in a large empty area, from behind a large tree, with water however we used to pressure test high pressure gas tanks to several thousand psi in a simple thin metal tank in a factory, occassional pops were loud but created no damage.

[@SunnySunny-jz8kg]

@@kevinfloyd808 hydrostatic testing

[@fix206]

And that's why I went with water, I figured the worst thing that would happen is the tank would pop and at most would just fall over.

[@13panda13]

That pressure test means nothing. Air tanks are usually tested to 2-3 their max rating.

[@splash5974]

Awesome job man! Only thing I would have added, while you were in the early stages and had the dollies hook together to make a rotisserie, I would have dried that tank out and poured in a quart or 2 of bare metal primer. You could have spun it around and flipped it up and down, coating the entire tank, and then opened up the bung on the bottom and collected the excess primer. This would have insured the tank would be rust free for many years!

[@fix206]

To be honest I didn't even think about that at first, and in hindsight it would definitely have been a good idea if I wasn't running an after cooler. With a standard set up of a compressor I would see this being almost a must to keep that rust down. But now with air inside of the tank being as dry as it is, think I should be OK for a while :-)

[@splash5974]

@@fix206 Yes, you should be! Air is gonna be fairly dry now. I wonder if you used one of your extra tanks inline with your current one, would that help even more with air volume for spraying or sandblasting?

[@fix206]

I haven't done too much of sandblasting but I have painted quite a bit in the last year while using the new compressor with the new pump easily out pumps the rate at which I am using up the air even if I am continuously painting. Expansion tank would probably make more sense if the compressor was set up in a shop environment with multiple people running air tools at the same time?

[@splash5974]

@@fix206 very true! I guess with just you, it should be OK. Just thought the expansion tank might keep the pump from working so hard to recoup the air consumption when spraying. Keep up the vids! Always enjoy watching them!

[@fix206]

Thanks bro, got more in the works...

[@emagee7864]

I actually loved this video. You showed the tank rehabilitation, testing, new pump system, pully calculations, pump sizing, and other considerations. This was equivalent to real mechanical engineering. Good work.

[@fix206]

Thanks man! I usually try to address all of the steps of the build process so that if others would try to replicate it they could easily follow along

[@kikoiekiko7440]

mech eng here. it was legit engineering. the only thing missing really is fab drawings. actually more engineering than i ever do lol. kudo to the creator

[@emagee7864]

@@kikoiekiko7440 yes, the drawings and specifications too. Generally, drawings/specs are for contractors to build from. The planning, analysis, and execution were all there.

[@waynewaters4537]

Whenever you want to build one and sell it let me know.

[@zincfive]

No it's not 'real engineering" it's dangerous nonsense

[@mikepettengill2706]

I want to caution you on your testing method. Hydro tests are done with the tank submerged in a water tank with a glass tube coming out to measure that tank's expansion and then how the tank returns to it's original shape. This will tell you if the tank can stand the metal fatigue that it can get from being repeatedly pumped up and then having the pressure drop. There are statistical charts that apply to different types of tanks regarding if they are safe. This may not be required for a relatively low pressure tank, i am not sure, but I know it is true of fire extinguishers that are in this range. You might want to check on what the policy is around pressure testing compressor tanks? ... I looked around and as of 2003, OSHA Regs 1910.169 says nothing about hydrotesting an air receiver tank. I don't know if the current standard is the same. The only safety requirements regarding inspection are to check that it has a working pressure gauge and safety relief valve(you'll have to research the proper release pressure. And is built to ASME certifications. So there must be a pressure range that doesn't apply to non commercial use and or safety equiptment. I am not sure but you are probably safe if you keep an eye on it.

[@zacdixon8487]

I work on compressors for a living and I was really impressed! I wish all of our customers were as knowledgeable as you but then again I’d be out of work lol

[@fix206]

Haha... Thanks Zac !!

[@benshort4157]

zac its complicated air compressor stuff bro. No one needs to learn our trade secrets!!!!! But good vid. You just didn't tell all the people about all the other stuff involved. Thanks for skipping all that!!!!

[@novavolks9652]

​@@benshort4157 I know well about compressors, but working on them is really difficult and exhausting.

[@dangrimes5078]

Since you are an expert, what is your opinion of Speedair compressors? Also, how often should I change the oil? I don't want to tell you how often I've been doing it. Thank you!

[@lancelabik5756]

Zac, I have an older 60 gallon compressor tank with an Emglo motor on it. What if anything can you do to tell if there is rust in the tank? How long do the tanks last?

[@scottwhite2379]

Something to add is on the intake side. Get a car muffler and a polaris sportsman air filter(or similar style). Plumb the muffler between the intake and filter. Most of the noise from a closed crankcase compressor is from the intake valves. The muffler will remove most of it.

[@priceless55]

Great idea

[@Sweet_Johnny]

​@@priceless55Car air intake tubes and filters work even better- the plastic/ rubber doesn't echo as bad as a metal pipe and muffler. If you DO use a car muffler, use a glasspack- they'll remove the higher frequencies much better.

[@kgoldengolden]

I just can't get enough of your channel! So many ideas to make equipment and repairs better than anything consumer-grade, but for less money. Thank you for taking the time to document what you do; it really inspires us!

[@fix206]

Thanks for watching, I got a lot more material in the works, stay tuned

[@Nappylox71]

This has got to be one of the best videos I’ve ever watched. Explanation for everything was easy to understand. Not long winded but long enough to get his point across without any confusion. Great vid!

[@fix206]

Thanks man! I appreciate it !

[@alskjflaksjdflakjdf]

I love air compressors that run at a lower RPM like the 1050 rpm one you purchased. It's not only the noise level that matters but also the type of sound they emit. It's a lower, punchier sound that's more pleasant to listen to. They can also last longer because they spin slower.

[@fix206]

You are absolutely correct, main thing about the low rpm is these compressors don't annoy you. While the old one annoyed the $hìt out of me... and probably my neighbors 🤣🤣🤣

[@djaydeved]

@@fix206 yeah, my grandpa owned a oil les craftsman, back when craftsman wasnt a shill company, the thing ran fast as hell and was annoyingly loud, like, permenant hearing loss levels of loud, and it wasnt no low thud, it was an annoying buzz from what i remember once that thing eventually broke he got a kobolt 2 stage unit, oiled unit, goes to higher working pressure AND is way, WAY quieter, and by way quieter it was mind blowing, i'd never heard a compressor that wasnt loud enough to need ear protection then my dad bought the same compressor a year or so later, im happy with it so far, though it does run out of air some what quickly imo, considering i was runin a sander to sand down my first project truck (yes, i have one, no it aint done, not even close, kinda thinkin bout sellin it too) and the compressor aint keepin up extremely well. so i might be looking at the harbor freight 2 stage, might be a good option dependin on how fast things are goin as it thats if its a nessesary upgrade. but what was 100% a nessesary upgrade was the lack of air linage the way the place is set up is that theres the actual garage which is not really large enough to fit anything and have any space and the other side which was originally a house extension, well the space wasnt being used so i claimed it and started buying tools and whatnot and now its my shop, and its got enough space to fit a rather large mower AND a ford bronco (and yes the bronco is my project truck) its a bit toight but it fits, anyways, theres a bit of space between the 2 main areas where the compressor resides and it also happens to be a convient walk way between the washer and dryer, because the washer isnt in the designated washer room, its out in my shop where if it decides to take a piss its not gonna cause extremely major damage to the already janky floorboards of the house ofc, having air line on the ground was dangerous, mom tripped on it more than once and so my dad decided to have metal line in the celing, and so far its only plummed to my side of the place because iron pipe is heccin expensive and then theres a soft line running from the pipe to the obligatory reel of soft line, and a bit of a water seperator just to try to remove the water might see if its possible to rig a similar water cooler into it too thats a fantastic idea

[@nerdyrcdriver]

My day job is designing air compressors. I expected this to be hilariously bad, but I was pleasantly surprised. A few basics were skipped over, but this isn't exactly a how to video. The water cooled aftercooler is definitely a unique idea. There should be a plate welded to the tank that says the actual rated pressure of the tank, which is usually 150-200 psi.

[@fix206]

Thanks Nick, actually means a lot coming from someone with your background !

[@stevenjordan6389]

Hi ,what basics were skipped over? I wanting to up grade my system.It is a cast air bought in 1994.Have replaced twin pump and motor but needs up grrade for sand blasting.Thanks.

[@juxinmarr]

Why don’t manufacturers insulate tanks to help prevent condensation of moisture in the tank?

[@nerdyrcdriver]

@@juxinmarrrunning any compressor long enough will result in the hot air heating the tank, especially on 2 stage compressors that reach higher pressures. Insulating the tank will hold that heat in, but it will only delay condensation. Eventually everything will cool after the compressor stops running and the moisture will drop out of the air. Most manufacturers offer some sort of aftercooler option to cool the air more before it enters the tank, resulting in water buildup in the tank. This is because it is easy to drain that liquid out of the tank with an automatic drain like the one he used in the bucket or just a timer valve on the bottom of the tank. Otherwise the air will eventually cool and condensate downstream in your airlines to tools, where it is less convenient to deal with capturing and draining it. Most air tools specifically want the dryest air possible, so it is preferred to eliminate as much moisture as possible at the compressor and then only require minor filtration closer to the tool if necessary. If the moisture didn't drop out of the air at the tank, much more filtration and drying efforts would be necessary near the tool..

[@nerdyrcdriver]

@@stevenjordan6389 if you're operating a commercial business you are best off selling your current model and purchasing a new one with the CFM requirements of your sandblaster in mind. I see people hang on to their old undersize units and then blow them up when they are overworked with new tools they didn't have before. The same applies if you are working on your personal stuff, but then I recommend looking at the used market. Some areas have lots of good used compressors available due to people upgrading as their needs have changed over time. Make sure you see it run. Check the oil level and color (just like an engine you don't want it to be black or have metal in it). If you can get the model ahead of time call the manufacturer and ask how long it should take to reach pressure. They'll usually be able to tell you from x psi to xx psi should take this long. You'll need the exact model though since they will need to know the exact configuration of the compressor to give an accurate time. The only thing you can easily do with your current setup is plumb another tank as more storage. You can then sandblast longer without the compressor running, but you'll have to stop for a longer time to let the compressor reach pressure again. Reducing the number of times the compressor stops and starts in an hour helps with longevity of the motor, pressure switch, and starter (if equipped). Depending on the model, you may be able to upgrade to a larger motor and then use a larger pulley to spin the pump faster. This would likely require a different overload or fuses in the starter to handle the higher amps the larger motor would draw. If the pump is already operating at it's max speed then there's no way to upgrade it. Another thing to look for is installing a regulator at your sand blaster. If you can regulate the pressure lower and still achieve satisfactory blasting results, the sandblaster will be using less air at the lower pressure.

[@justsoicanfingcomment5814]

I think you did a very good job. The only recommendations that I would make are more a personal thing. I like to mount my motor and compressor on its own platform. That way, I can more easily just connect an airline to any size tank I want. I usually mount the motor and compressor outside in some kind of shed or something. Then I run a line to the radiator and then to the tank farm. This keeps the noise level away from my work space. You had a second tank I would have plumbed it up to the first tank for more volume of storage. But that's more of a personal thing based on my set up in which I have a smaller compressor. So I rely on a larger storage volume to get through large jobs. While the pump is running, we'll take a break every now and then to let the tanks fill back up. People always throw out tanks when their compressors go out. So as long as the tank itself is good, we just have to Hook up an airline and start the compressor early. Usually, with the capacity of the tank farm, we can keep up with the workflow even with a lower output compressor. It's not ideal but with free tanks readily available. For us, it just makes sense to use a tank farm and the single, smaller, more efficient compressor.

[@pyrogenusa]

I did the same thing a couple years ago, using same pump . I also took the old tanks, cleaned them and added another 160 gallons of storage to the system. Pump runs a little longer to charge the entire system, but it also will run a paint gun for 10 minutes before the compressor turns on. The other tanks are valved so you can cut them out if not needed.

[@fix206]

I personally never really felt a need for air expansion.. I think something like that would be better suited for a shop environment where few people may use the air at the same time, not continuously of course... But at the same time since I never used expansion tanks, maybe I don't know what I'm missing... 🙂

[@EdBoi18]

You have to be careful with tank sizing and expansion volume. Most reciprocating compressors run best at 60% duty cycle or less and if you have too much expansion volume, you could end up making the compressor run for far too much longer than it needs to.

[@RS-jl7cu]

The aftercooler is an extremely clever design. I see a lot of industrial compressed air/inline dessicant units and the same principles are used. I was going to leave a comment about the position of your dessicant unit, pointing out that it should always be downstream from any aftercooling, until I got to the end and saw that you'd done exactly that. Great design and great execution.

[@glennr9913]

I agree great design. Btw, I wondered about evaporation and whether the auto-moisture bleed kept the bucket topped off?

[@TB-pk9ou]

Awesome build! Being I live in the midwest, I would fill the bucket with rv antifreeze instead of water. Rv antifreeze is also non toxic. I use it for winterizing plumbing for in ground pools. One thing I noticed is dissimilar metals connected to each other. Some connections look like they are rusting from that. If that's the case, fix it sooner than later, might be impossible later. Put some dielectric unions in.

[@bobskier4274]

A problem with this cooling system is that after running the compressor for awhile, the water in the bucket will warm up, and less moisture will be removed from the compressed air. A counter-flow system connected to the water supply could be designed to eliminate this problem.

[@Peter-nu6ix]

@@bobskier4274 Or instal a larger cooling bucket in an old, but functioning repurposed fridge. Particularly if using the power supply is preferable to using a continuous flow of water. {Reply to "A counter-flow system connected to the water supply could be designed to eliminate this problem ..." (of) ... "the water in the bucket will warm up, and less moisture will be removed from the compressed air."}

[@shalehausler4383]

Small water feature water pump and cheap Amazon radiator could help dissipate the water heat.

[@patrickpk6299]

What is the valve at @23:07 called? You should do another video on the cooler setup and go through the details... 1.5M views! nice work!

[@chadsalter9961]

I was going to post similar comment, only thing missing was better explanation of what was all going on there. After reading through the comments I’m pretty set on how to make a duplicate cooler with a few improvements like not using dissimilar metals & not submerging the valve w/ air release underwater

[@justintime4466]

So glad I watched this, honestly thought once the motor quits it’s time for a new compressor but you showed a way to not only repair but make awesome, smart improvements 👏👏👏

[@fix206]

Glad my video was helpful !! I love reusing just about anything instead of buying new, I'm not a tree hugger or anything like that, just like giving things a second chance at life and save a bunch of money at the same time :)

[@IanTheWoodchuck]

In addition to all the suggestions of using a bare-metal primer on the inside of the tank, I'd have also gotten a bunch of ceramic aggregate stones like for a part-shaker, loaded them into the tank through the bottom bung with a gallon of Evaporust, and tumbled them for a while to scour the tank and break down the rust coating before doing a metal primer sealkote.

[@timmyl2005]

That may sound good. im not saying it is a bad idea to use some media to help remove the scale inside the tank. but as for as putting a coating on the inside of the tank. That's where your idea Fails and is more trouble then its worth you will actually weaken the tank by doing this . unless you have a way to coat the inside of the tank with a uniform coating. I don't mean rolling the tank around and hoping you get a good coating. you would need to be able to use a Mil Gauge and measure the thickness of the coating that you apply. The inside of the tank will actually deteriorate faster with no real way to know what coating you have applied there will be spots where you may have 3 mils or 7 or 10 and wherever you have a thin mil thickness that is where the pressurized air and any moisture will attack first and worse then a bare steel tank MUCH WORSE. have you ever seen the inside of a high pleasured say oxygen bottle argon bottle? that have far more pressure from 2000 or above 6000psi. inside the tank no coating. i have Ceramic coated the inside of water towers before using what's called a Plural pump and the coating is an Epoxy that is applied hot at about 145 Degree F. and it is applied at 30 Mils!!! the cost for that coating for 5.5 gallons is $2200 for 6 Gallons of ceramic coating. your better with a bare unpainted tank unless you plan on running tests for mil thickness. the tank will degrade faster if painted. do what you like but what i am saying is correct. not a know it all just a Certified Coatings Expert.

[@Hellsong89]

@@timmyl2005 High pressure vessels generally house pure gasses and next to no impurities like moisture (poorly maintained aside). Compressor tank has just normal dirty air and moisture so there is the difference. Thing most people dont realize is yes getting even coating on the inside well as coating that can flex a little since even oxygen bottle will expand up a little with pressures involved, not much but a little. Even compressor tank will expand so biggest mistake is to use rigid coating. Second is to go weld pressure vessel with out training to do it properly as you create weak point if not perfect weld and heat management, I'm not coating expert so cant say much about that, but evapo rust combined with say ball bearings to break off any millscape and remove the rust it self should bring good results on old tank. Is it worth to do for old tank is different topic entirely. Personally i would do it and plan on doing it for my large compressor maybe next summer since those tanks are really expensive. Only coating i will do is to clean it properly and put coat of heavy oil on the surfaces and then just run the air trough filters. Gives good protection against water contaminants and seals most of the oxygen out from the metal.

[@h8GW]

Good idea, but I don't think it would be necessary or even productive with how he's condensing the water out of the air. I'd also imagine just pouring linseed oil into the tank, sloshing it around and running the compressor with the tank unpressurized to dry out the oil would be an easier and longer-lasting option.

[@bradtodd3639]

Use muriatic acid to dissolve the rust inside the tank. It acts very quickly so it doesn't take very long (try it on a piece of rusty metal first to get an idea of time) and it cleans right down to base metal. Then either use phosphoric acid to convert the flash rust left over (iron oxide) to iron phosphate - a black non-rustable coating. Or coat the inside of the tank with a tank coating of which there are several different types.

[@TheWadetube]

Fix206 I think you did a great job, and you are more skilled than the average DIY person. That being said I believe you can rebuild the old / used compressor pump you purchased, I believe it is a two piston design and if you take it apart, check the bore sleeve wall for scratches and rust, the rings, gaskets and the spring valves you will find the problem and be able to fix it without a kit. You can get spring steel from a 10 inch putty knife, a float for making smooth plaster on walls and can cut it to make flapper valves , you can make gaskets out of saturated leather, O rings and washers can be purchased at Harbor Fright as well as any more specialized tools you might need and you can have a second compressor for a back up or just sell it to pay for all your purchases on the two projects combined. Good luck.

[@50sKid]

Very impressive video. You really put a lot of work and research into it. I appreciate how you showed and analyzed the different reviews on the pump and zeroed in on how some of the bad ones were due to user error. Love your water cooling system. I basically want to replicate exactly what you did. Thanks for linking to the pulley.

[@fix206]

Once you build yours, let me know how it turns out !!

[@goatsinker347]

I use a transmission fluid cooler with a fan to cool the compressed air. That feeds a small tank to catch the condensed water, from there it goes to the wain tank. The whole thing sits in an airconditioned area. Works really well.

[@davidparker9676]

I like your cooler design, it is something I wouldn't have thought to add. I always see desiccant air dryers after the tank but that doesn't minimize the moisture in the tank like a condensing cooler does.

[@fix206]

I mainly wanted to ensure that from now on that the inside of the tank would stay nice and dry to prolong its life. It actually worked out better than I expected :)

[@davidparker9676]

@@fix206 Have you considered linking the tanks to add capacity? That is something I have always wanted to do.

[@davidparker9676]

@@fix206 I wonder what a bag of ice would do to the temperature when it is running for a long time.

[@fix206]

To be honest I never had the need for a larger volume of air, especially now, new compressor out pumps the rate at which I'm using the air even if I'm continuously painting. I was going to mention that in the video, but the video was getting a bit too long :) I actually sold the second tank for the same amount that I paid for both tanks, so in the end the thank that I ended up keeping was free to me 😃 I'm sure you can feed the bucket some ice especially if you're doing a lot of work in the dead of summer when it's scorching hot. Wonder if you would end up with condensation on the outside of the tank since the air going in would probably be cooler than a tank itself ?

[@wombleofwimbledon5442]

​@Fix206 or use with a heat-pump enabled water heater. Free hot water!

[@williamolliges2622]

Grandpa gave me his oil filled compressor when he bought a new oilless compressor. Some time later I ended up with the oilless, so I gave the oil filled compressor to my kid. Some time after that, I was at my kids house and he fired up the compressor. I miss my oil filled compressor. The sound is so much better.

[@AlanMydland-fq2vs]

a oiled compressor is much better and will last

[@ohyeahthatsright3155]

Dunkadunkadunkadunka

[@visor2929]

Really nice setup. You went all out incompressing your air and cooling the air. You should be called Mr. Wizard of compressor fabrication.

[@fix206]

Haha... I appreciate that ! 😎

[@drew31186]

Great job! For a "long" video you were able to keep my focus without adding anything unnecessary or leaving out any important details which is a seemingly difficult balance to achieve 🙂

[@fix206]

Thanks man !

[@kaboom362]

Duty cycle for a piston type compressor is max 70% run time to 30% rest time. To help achieve this, you increase your storage. Optimum storage is 10 gallons per cfm. Minimum is about 4

[@slicedbread9003]

Good job. I like your solution to rotating the tank. Clever and effective. I also think your cooling coil in water is better than air. I think most of us DIY'er think that air cooling is just simpler, however, your cooling bucket proves that it can be simple and effective. There we go again. Simple and effective.

[@fix206]

Thanks man !

[@MissionaryForMexico]

Totally awesome! Very creative in solving improvements to a refined air compressor.

[@fix206]

Thank you very much!

[@georgedailey5596]

If you need more volume, add a blower to the compressor inlets. This can be a shop vac discharge or a dedicated electric centrifugal blower. I think you can get a 10-25% increase in cfm at all pressures. It literally supercharges the compressor.

[@theshauny]

Sounds interesting

[@ronblack7870]

it will take more hp there is no free lunch

[@kingnull2697]

@@ronblack7870 "Shop vac discharge" "dedicated electric centrifugal blower" - the blower is running on a separate motor.

[@BrucePierson]

Your new compressor worked out really well and cost you very little. That's not a surprise with your talent and doing things like this. It's great to see another video and I hope you can keep the videos coming regularly, They are always interesting and informative. All the best from Queensland Australia.

[@fix206]

Thank you Bruce! Aways happy to hear from you! I'm committed to keep going... Got the next one in the works !

[@Smart-Skippy]

I agree with Bruce ! Well explained, well planned, well constructed and finally, well done !!!! Cheers from Perth, Western Australia !

[@Peter-nu6ix]

@@fix206 👍 💚 🇦🇺 💛

[@Peter-nu6ix]

#BrucePierson 👍 💚 🇦🇺 💛

[@Peter-nu6ix]

@@Smart-Skippy 👍 💚 🇦🇺 💛

[@amneziaxeaster-gaming382]

Pretty safe of you to test it with water pressure. Since it's not compressible the rupture of the tank is way less dangerous

[@fix206]

That's right, I did my research and that's precisely why I went with a water for pressure testing purposes 👍

[@egc04]

@@fix206 air compressor tanks are tested under water at the tank manufacturers usually to double the stamped working pressure

[@i8ntnuts]

Very wise decision. 200 pounds of air in that tank, and that tree may not of saved you had it ruptured

[@Sp1der44]

I really enjoyed watching this video. I love seeing someone elegantly solve a problem while simultaneously saving a ton of money. Great stuff. 🫡👍

[@boxoftj1]

I am so glad the algorithm recommended this video to me, I haven't really found any really satisfying compressor builds, especially using the harbor freight pump. You are the only one I've seen that went into detail about pulley size, too. Very nice

[@fix206]

Glad I was able to cover most of the questions that you may have had! That's what I'm here for 😎👍

[@silverbackag9790]

Oh Lordy. With the “very nice” and his accent, my mind went straight to Borat. lol.

[@trentdawg2832]

That is awesome….you sir are a genius and very creative…..as a plumber for over 20+ years i love how you incorperated everyday fittings into this build…..i can see myself building a system like this once i get a shop built instead of working out of my garage

[@fix206]

Thanks Trent, I am far from a genius, but creativity is something I have plenty of LOL... I do some of the work in the garage but most of it in the driveway because there is just not enough room in my garage. Looking for a new place, hopefully with a shop building so I can take my game up a notch or two

[@Brian-cv6rc]

I like that it has a vertical tank. Floor space is valuable for the average DIY'er.

[@fix206]

I agree 100%, floor space runs at a premium especially in a smaller garage. Vertical tank all the way !!

[@eburgcarl6456]

Excellent videos! I have that same Campbell Hausfeld air compressor and I will be doing the same pump upgrade to it. Very helpful, I have watched this specific video at least 4 times. Just ordered the sheave pulley and soon I’ll get the other parts. I’ve had that harbor freight pump new in the box sitting in my shop for two years 😂. Next time you pass through Ellensburg, I’d like to buy you lunch!

[@fix206]

I just read your comment to my wife and she said that it probably wouldn't be a good idea to reach out to you next time I'm passing through Ellensburg, because after eating lunch I would most likely end up at your house and we'd start working your compressor and whatever else needs to be tinkered with and I'd end up sticking around for a day or two 🤣🤣🤣😎

[@eburgcarl6456]

@@fix206wow your wife and mine must be kindred spirits 😂 You would see the jeep in my shop that I am prepping for paint and get sucked in!

[@itsthemetho]

I used an old fridge evaporator to help cool the air. What I have found is doubling up on air filters has removed basically all water from the air lines. The 1st filter strips a lot of water. The 2nd strips very little. In addition to this I use a coalescing filter to strip any remaining oil/water. However even after spray painting for hours, this filter is basically empty.

[@williambaca9327]

Hello itsthemetho - any chance you have a photo you can share? (I am a bit of a novice and a pic would be helpful)

[@glennr9913]

I'm really impressed with your water-cooled air cooler/dryer with the auto-drain device. Brilliant idea. 👍 Not only simple & effective, but it's also very portable.

[@fix206]

Thanks man! The drier system really does work!

[@GearGrinder33]

@@fix206Can you please do a full video on dryer build? I’d like to build one!

[@huntz3215]

I use to sell refrigerant air dryers and saw some interesting problems & solutions over the years. Small panel shops would leave a copper coil inside the shop fridge & just poke the lines out the back to the compressor. 1 pharmaceutical co. complained of excess water and I found they had the compressor in a closed room beside a steam boiler - sheesh. Also the drain valve is often forgotten on a Tank, so for convenience put a fitting in place of the std drain cock and run a line to a ball valve or an automatic drain valve at a location that is easier to access. Rule of thumb for compressors is running at 50% of capacity - any more generates more heat, thus retaining more moisture - that's why it can be beneficial to have a 2nd tank storing air that has been filtered and dried for higher quality air use applications like spray painting.

[@fix206]

Those are good points! I may add another tank to run in line sometime down the road. But that is yet to be determined 😉

[@larryhunt1853]

Great job. FYI, water is 23.5 times more efficient in transferring heat than air. So your setup is dang near perfect!

[@fix206]

It's been great running for over 2 years... I wouldn't change a thing :-)

[@markjohnson9402]

Such a good video. Not just the idea, but the editing and presentation. So clear and easy to follow. And love the water cooling. Great job !

[@fix206]

Wow, thank you Mark! Appreciate a great comment!

[@markjohnson9402]

@@fix206 very welcome. So much junk on here masquerading as instructional videos. Your's actually is, ; )

[@fix206]

I got more good stuff in the works! Thanks for watching!

[@keikun6969original]

If I was doing this for me, I'd be using all three of those tanks after removing the motors and things from the other two, to give myself a total of 180 gal of air storage. For the simple fact that I use a lot of heavy air tools. Fantastic build.

[@frederickburns1739]

Been around commercial and industrial grade shops most of my life and for a DIYer well thought out!! Air tanks to be certified and UL approved are tested at three times there rating.

[@fix206]

Thanks Frederick ! I think UL approvals and certifications mainly apply to commercial equipment. 99.99% of the home grade air compressors never get tested. They just slowly die in someone's garage over the years. And once they're dead they get replaced with a new one

[@OldJoe212]

Excellent video. From what I've read, adding an bigger air filter will decrease run time. You can get an excellent filter from a home HEPA air cleaner.

[@tomsmith3045]

Nice work! Your DIY unit is probably aligned and tested better than many compressors out for retail sale.

[@fix206]

You are probably right about that :))) So far going on 2 yeas and still going strong !! 👍👍

[@CSltz]

I sure do agree with the “coil cooler” That might be something that a person could use to hide their coil from the revenuers. Seriously you do do some great work. I’d like to see you do a section on some of these tools that are advertising on these channels. Edge sharpening. Work lighting. How to make a good one or make it better. Thanks a lot.

[@MattAtHazmat]

I'd add a tube to the output side of the auto drain so that it doesn't vent underwater. some water could get back in while it cycles. Also, the aluminum cage on the copper tube , all submerged in water will cause galvanic corrosion (the water becomes an electrolyte, and you get a tiny battery) and the aluminum will corrode. Same goes with the steel/copper connections, but in this case, the copper will corrode and get weaker. IIRC, there is a steel spring inside the auto-drain, so keeping that submerged in water will definitely shorten its life- or maybe just make it stop working.

[@tubergonz]

You know, you could add some antifreeze to the bucket to prevent corrosion and it would eliminate any mosquitos from breeding and would protect the lines and bucket should it freeze.

[@Kshrc1]

The only metal that should touch copper is copper. Otherwise use an inert product like plastic.

[@cos4185]

I recently purchased an older Sanborn commercial air compressor at auction sight unseen and after watching this video I decided to dig a little deeper into the specs of the machine. I found that the CFM was NOT what I had hoped, and it is also very noisy. I have been doing a lot of DIY projects but until I watched your video, I had never considered an air compressor project before, mainly because of fear of tank rupture. But, now because of your concise and common sensical approach, I am confident i can safely address that concern and also get the kind of machine I need. Thank you for the video!! OH!!....and the water-cooling system.... brilliant! That will DEFINITELY be a part of my system!

[@jt9498]

I have that same pump on my 60 gal. tank. It's been working for me for the past 5 years without a hitch. I like the idea about using a foam collar around the air filter. I plan to use that idea! :) Other than that, I'm happy with how everything works.

[@fix206]

So far it's been a great pump ! I'm glad that I went that route!! And yeah that foam surround is basically a pre filter that also helps a little with sound deadening

[@juniorcopeland9082]

You can also add some plumbing to the air filter intakes on the pump and run the filter pipes through the wall to the outside, that will keep the air cooler and make it quieter too...a friend of mine owns a body repair shop and that's what he did...and it also keeps your filters clean also !!

[@Ron_Masterjohn]

Great video and fantastic job on your compressor build. Blown away how well the cooling coil works.

[@fix206]

Appreciate it !!

[@mikeiver]

It's a good video and having repaired many compressors as well as installing a bunch as well I say good job. The only problems I have stem from the fact that there are a couple of issues on prominent display. The first being that the compressor is outside and being fed with flexible steel conduit. This should be fed via liquid tight with proper fittings. Second being that there is no strain relief on the SO cord coming out of the compressor motor entering the pressure switch. Third is that there is no service disconnect from which the compressor power can be interrupted. Another issue is that considering the service I would have silver brazed the copper fittings rather than soldering due to the vibrations.

[@ronblack7870]

i think it's outside just for filming it

[@lindafoxwood78]

You are brilliant! I was working on changing my small tank for a larger tank that I have around my barn. Glad I saw your work! I have more ideas to make sure my new home made compressor works great. Thanks so much. 💋

[@joeydelrio]

love the pressure test, for safety reasons he moved the compressor next to his neighbors house lol

[@connecticutaggie]

Love your design. The one thing I would have done different was to coat the inside of the tank with a rust converter like Evapo-Rust to prevent the rust from growing or getting into your air.

[@bhartley1024]

Evapo-Rust is a chelating agent, not a converter. It doesn't leave any kind of protective coating.

[@OldSneelock]

​@@bhartley1024 I wonder why I have a lot of people asking me that question. It doesn't claim to be a converter.

[@fsoileau]

Excellent video, Hydrostatic testing is the way to go, and using a pressure washer was clever. I think popping a balloon would be more dangerous.

[@fix206]

Most definitely!

[@kanehoward7050]

So he filled it with water so if it did explode it wouldn't be as violent?

[@rs1856]

@@kanehoward7050 Yes, water does not compress like air does. The tank would simply rupture and spray out water, versus exploding and sending shrapnel everywhere lol.

[@jerimiahbrown9629]

Thank you. I’m researching compressors and want one that will allow me to paint and run all of my air tools without constantly running the compressor. The solution to not spending more than I am willing to is to invest the time to DIY…. This video helped me identify areas I needed to think more on…. Particularly love the water cooling loop….

[@trevormorgan7138]

Awesome build! I would still be paranoid about using that tank as all that rust means the last owner never properly drained it after every use most likely. Also I know somewhere out there is an engineer which would chime in on percentile ratings for safety. There is a bunch of math into what happens to a tank depending on how high above its rated pressure you take it. The only time you would expect critical failure on the spot is at burst pressure. That pressure rating is usually I think at least 300% over working pressure.

[@bikesbabes4721]

An ultrasonic tester can tell the remaing Wall Thickness. If multiple readings give consistent T, you likeley dont have excessive loss due to corrosion. Calculating the Hoop stress will give the MAWP (Max allowable working pressure ) Divide that by a safety factor of 4, and set your Pressure safety valve accordingly. Of course there are statutory regulations to consider.

[@maytagmark2171]

Add to that concern a non certified weld on a pressure vessel. On draining tanks the ones in our shops has the drain valve set to slightly weep. So moisture never builds up.

[@tomconner5067]

Apply the solder on the opposite of the heat source and apply the heat at the point where you want the solder to flow

[@JerrellKull]

Hence the term "Sweating" joints.

[@patlawson1755]

I like your idea of the water chiller for the air but you should have an expansion tank on the bottom of that to bleed off the water into so it doesn't continue to carry water vapor back up into your main tank. I suggest get a small air tank from a semi-trailer you can pick him up pretty easily and plum that into the bottom of your water coil so that the water has a place to drop out and it's not cross-contaminating your air going back to your tank as the air perk alates through the bottom of your water coil

[@fix206]

But I do, I have a purge valve at the very bottom of the coil and there is a drop elbow that comes down off of the coil right before the valve so the water has somewhere to pool before it gets purged into the bucket. At the very end of the video where you see the bubbles coming out of the bucket that's the water being purged out of the automatic relief valve

[@patlawson1755]

I don't think you realize what I'm talking about. you only have about three or four inch of space at the bottom with that elbow and as a result the water builds up and your air flow travels through the water carrying with it water vapor like a cold vaporizer even though it might be very little it still pulling it through with the airinto you're main tank if you have an expansion tank at the end of or bottom of the coil that water can drop out into it will drain away from your air and thus won't be bubbling through that water continuously pulling water vapor with it as it continues to you're main tank. it doesn't even have to be a large tank you can even add a one or two inch diameter 12 inch long copper piece of tubing to allow the water to expand into with your release valve at the end

[@FerretPD]

This is close to the Perfect DIY video! Brilliant design, fantastic safety testing, and *all* the necessary info to properly duplicate your setup! Well Done, and Thank you!

[@bobstovall9570]

A most excellent presentation. Very well laid out and presented. Looking forward to more great content from you.

[@fix206]

Thank you kindly!

[@tedbaker8291]

The only extra step I can think of would be to coat the inside of the tank with some sort of rust neutralizer, but I suppose that might have fouled the tank and probably is not necessary with your air cooler.

[@fix206]

That was also my thought at first but then after seeing how well the cooling coil worked and dried the air, not sure how beneficial it would be for me to seal the tank

[@derrickwoods2803]

Just drain the tank of water

[@PCMenten]

Your demonstration of cleaning and testing the tank is a true public service. ❤ Edit; by adding an air-to-air cooler before the air-to-water cooler, you can improve performance at a low cost. And, do you gave any hacks to reduce the noise from the air intake. Yeah, there are mufflers but how about better mufflers?

[@fix206]

I was actually thinking about using couple of 1 gallon paint cans and pack them full of breathable sound deadening material. Then slip them right over the existing air filter/mufflers. But then the video was already getting long as it is so I decided that that should be enough information for one video. I may revise this project down the road with some more upgrades...

[@Tennesseemountainhomestead]

I’ve owned the Ingersol Rand 60 gallon compressor for 3 years. Same one you showed. I bought it off the shelf at Tractor Supply. It’s been fantastic, never had an issue. I put on one of those automatic tank water evacuation things on it so it doesn’t rust inside or keep water inside. It’s plenty quiet, it’s in the center of my shop and it doesn’t dominate the space when it runs. I have it bolted to the floor with pieces of an old truck tire I cut out between the feet and floor. I also have clean power to it 240 volt with the correct #10 AWG copper wire. No leaks at all. It will hold 130 PSI and won’t bleed down at all. No oil leaks. Looks great too. It’s one of my favorite tools. When I bought it several years ago I think I paid around $1,200 out the door.

[@MrObsvenchilde]

Seems like the moisture would still have time to slowly but surely oxidize the metal even if it's evacuated every so often. Having the after cooler practically ends that possibility all together. If you don't want to build one- HF sales a refrigerated air dryer for $550 or you can get the IR one for $1.1k

[@charredskeleton]

They make a set of springs that allow bends of almost any size to be made in copper tubing without collapsing it. This would allow you to use tubing instead of copper flex in your system. Just something to about if it ever needs replaced. I’d run it out as is. Good build and great find on that calculator!

[@EdBoi18]

Yeah, I carry those on my truck. You still have to be careful and not go too wild with them, but they will allow you to make bends that you normally couldn't by hand alone.

[@PhillipHall01]

Love it Fix. I don't know how you could have made it any better! Not only do you no longer have the moisture concerns for your tools and paint work, now your tank should last much longer without the moisture buildup within which promotes rust, Great Job! Thanks for the video. Question, what brand and model is the check valve which releases the moisture at the bottom of your bucket and where did you get it? Thanks very much! Phillip Hall.

[@fix206]

Phillip, thank you as usual! I got that check valve also from Harbor Freight, they call it an "Automatic Compressor Drain Kit". I just checked their website and it looks like they are clearancing this item out, so if it's something that you're interested in you should probably grab one pretty soon before they are gone for good :-)

[@PhillipHall01]

@@fix206 Thanks fix I will pick one up. I have seen different type coolers, but I am confident yours is the very best home built rig I have seen period!! ... I appreciate that you continue sharing you great ideas here on KZbin. GREAT STUFF!! Phillip Hall

[@fix206]

Thanks again Phillip, some of the aftercoolers that I looked at were set up in the form of a radiator with a fan, the way I see it is just overly complicated and it will also use extra electricity to keep the charge temperatures down... And at the end of the day water is still more effective than air, and if your compressor is running while it is really hot outside you can always take it one step further and add some ice into the water bucket. There is no air to air after cooler that could ever match that

[@fix206]

Oh and I've also found that Automatic Drain Valve, if you can't track one down at your local harbor freight I left a link to it in the video description

[@PhillipHall01]

@@fix206 Thanks Fix!

[@dawn9340]

This is such a good video, absolutely love it. This will be the blueprint for my next compressor. Thank you!

[@itsmeagain8518]

I have a 5 h.p. Quincy that I bought in 1993. Has been on and kicking in/out (due to the minor air leaks popping up) during this whole time. Changed oil and filter as required. I use an auto bleeder on the bottom of the tank and water separators about fifteen feet from the tank. I rarely get moisture through a hose end. I keep it on all winter and summer. I replaced 1 pop-off valve. I also worked in a auto body shop for 30 years that also had a 10 h.p. Quincy that had been there the whole time. I have had other compressors and none lasted. Setting the compressor up correctly makes a huge difference by doing such things as airlines angles, water trap location, etc. $1500 spent in 1993 was quite a bargain. Hope yours lasts as long.

[@fix206]

So far after more than two years is still chugging along 😀

[@GWAYGWAY1]

There is not any kinetic energy in a water tank test it will not explode, just leak water, there is huge energy store with compressed air and that is dangerous. When the tank is dried out completely put two pack paint mix of old colour from the left overs in the cupboard, role the paint around and especially the base. Let it cure and the water will nor rust it as fast as bare metal. Drain the water condensate every time, release the air gently or the water will stay in there rusting away, as the air forces the water to the side.😊

[@Creator_Nater]

Really great work, and production! Very clear, and informative as well. Great pace, too!

[@fix206]

Much appreciated!

[@bldrmtnman]

Great job! The only suggestions I could come up with is a safety cage around the moving pulleys as well as bolting the tank down to something so that vibrations don't send it off kilter. You might also want to secure your electrical connections a bit better. But, really cool solution.

[@DennisFahlstrom]

It’s a real good idea. I got a used 80 gallon hot water tank from a neighbor who had it sitting in his garage doing nothing. I pressure tested it just as you did and it was fine up to 230 psi. I set it up in a home made shed outside my shop. The two tanks now provide me with a total of 150 gallons of accumulated air and my main compressor runs at 175 psi. The major advantage shows when painting or using any air hungry power tools. The motor only needs to run for less than half the time. It does require longer to replace the air but it makes for a quieter shop. I followed your tip and made myself a line cooler but found that with the larger effective accumulator my temps without the cooler only got up to 130 degrees so it wasn’t really needed but I use it because it does lower the temp to around 10 degrees above ambient air. One more suggestion: after using my setup for 2 years I decided to enlarge my outdoor shed to house both the main compressor and the 80 gallon accumulator for noise reduction. Thanks for your video.

[@christopher197676]

I saved this video to my favorites!! I wish most people doing a tutorial video were like this guy! Your water cooler, where did you get that vacuum bleed off valve, and what would I be looking for? Thank you!!

[@fix206]

I left links to some of the materials that I use in his build in the video description. Here are those links: Automatic Drain Valve - ebay.us/ZKD9zr Cooling Coil Tubing - amzn.to/42kLcR2

[@christopher197676]

Thank you!!

[@Amerikanin2numarali_ustasi]

You used plumbing solder I would use silver brazing for copper connections as regular solder might fail under fluctuating loads

[@bimmermavenwrench1660]

and it's weak at 200F

[@montanasoftware5954]

Awesome video!!! It inspires me to get my FrankenCompressor project restarted. A couple questions: 1.) Do you get oil in the bucket from the pump? (ejected from the little valve at the bottom of the copper coil)? 2.) What do you do during winter? Doesn't the water in the bucket freeze? Do you use anti-freeze? Or drain the bucket and rely on cold winter air to do the cooling instead of water? Does the little valve at the bottom of the bucket work in sub-freezing temps? I live in northern Montana. Temps get down to -10 or -20 degrees below zero, so I have to consider this. Thanks!

[@fix206]

Thanks man, I don't get any oil in the bucket from the pump since my new pump does not have any blowby even after two years it runs as it did on the day one. It rarely gets down to freezing temperatures where I live. But yes, I would totally use antifreeze in the bucket if I lived in the frigid temperatures such as you

[@byranbunn2773]

Thanks for sharing. That was an awesome build.

[@fix206]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!

[@nickg7205]

I absolutely loved the 2 dollies for a rotisserie.....brilliant!

[@fix206]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@ScenEverywhere]

Nice build. A couple years ago I converted an old 32 gal. air compressor tank into a sand blaster pot. The rust was there and I cleaned the tank. After cleaning the tank I poured phosphoric acid into the tank to neutralize residual rust. I am wanting to do a similar build and am planning to mount the motor and air compressor remote from the air dryer and tank which will be a few feet away. I've got a couple tank options and am considering using an old 120 gal. propane tank. Thanks for the video. It really is loaded with good tips.

[@4bangerlove]

I personally only take the 1 or 2 star reviews with a grain of salt. As a mechanic I see how people treat their cars and equipment and I can see people running the piss out of a new compressor for 6 months straight and never checking or replacing the oil or draining the water from the tank. I own a dual stage IR and probably change the oil more than is recommended and I also drain the water from the tank often and it has been going strong for 5 years

[@GaryFeltman]

I have the same compressor. I took it apart and found that you can fix it quite simple. The piston can be turned,sand the cylinder with fine sandpaper and reshape the edge of the piston and reassemble. Works again and I haven't touched it sense. You are can also buy a kit to replace worn parts,piston and cyl.cylinder. A whole lot cheaper than buying a new one. I have had mine for 25 years and still going.

[@danielmierop662]

Awesome build video! All the way from component selection to hydraulic water safety check! My favorite parts was the belt selection, length of belt calculation, air/water separator, and presenters passion on this subject.

[@stevenoe6395]

U should combine all 3 tanks for air storage and run the cooler before the separater at least that's my opinion I have been wanting to build my own for a while have don so on a smaller scale on stuff I got for free definitely made a difference good video

[@0x00zero]

I built that exact same machine long ago. I bought the CH cheap at a NAPA store where they dropped it and broke the crank. I put on the HFT pump and used the whole coil of copper to make an intercooler. Ran it a long time, then one day, Grainger had ONE left on special: brand new crank and bearings for the CH pump, $40. Scored that, fixed the CH pump, built a different machine with the HFT pump and sold it. I now have the CH machine completed with intercooler and nicer contactor controls. NAPA broke the wheel, too, but HFT sent me one for $13 delivered (not sure how they do that without realizing they shouldn't). I made a taper adapter to fit HFT wheel to CH pump.....

[@winfordnettles3292]

I did the same thing with a used compressor that I got from my neighbor. Only difference is that I got the tank with a compressor and no motor. Compressor was rated 5 HP, but, I found a 6.4 HP motor for a good price and figured my pulley ratios as you did. I had to make a few parts for the compressor head, but, that was no problem and it performed very well when I tested it out. I did make a belt tensioner on the motor for minor adjustments with belt wear. Love the cooler that you made. I will do a similar cooler on my compressor shortly, based mainly on your design. Thanks a bunch for posting the video.

[@scruffscrofula]

This is like a complete course in backyard mechanics - very well done at every step.

[@fix206]

I try 😉

[@atvsanonymous]

Thank you! I just finished building a compressor very similar to yours. The differences are , I used the more recent more expensive harbor freight pump and I used copper pipe the whole way down and up. No flex pipe at all. It works amazing!

[@fix206]

NICE !!! I did see on their website that the style of a pump that I used has been discontinued and they do have a new/different style of a pump available. How do you like the new pump? I was actually going to do a revised video where I may do a review on this new pump...

[@atvsanonymous]

@@fix206 it works great 👍. It has a single belt pulley. 16 1/12" diameter. So I ended up using a 5" pulley for the motor. I also kept the original check valve on the top of the tank. Just before the check valve, I reduced it from 1/2" to 3/8". I figured since the compressed air had a chance to cool down it wouldn't mind going through a smaller pipe at the end. And it handles it just fine. I don't have any problems with moisture anymore 😊

[@sumegator]

What kind of valve did you use for the drain set up on your after cooler? Love how it automatically actuates to release the moisture.

[@fix206]

I left a link to it in the video description, but here it is: Automatic Drain Valve - ebay.us/ZKD9zr

[@glenpaul3606]

To stop the rust inside the tank you could spray it or fill it with a gallon of Ospho. Rotate and ensure all of the insides have contact with the Ospho. Drain the tank and circulate air in it until the Ospho has dried. Once it has all, the rust will be converted from iron oxide to iron phosphate which is an inert substance. rust will not come back. Ospho sometimes leaves a fine white powder residue so you could rinse and flush out the tank with water the insure it is dry by circulating air again. After doing this your tank will be clean and rust free and Ospho also acts as a primer that can be painted although you wouldn't try to paint inside the tank but for external surfaces it works great.

[@bozowinslo]

the rotisserie idea is genius .... the only thing I can add to that is a length of chain...1/4" or larger steel chain... put about 10 ft into the tank .... as the tank rolls over and over, the chain scrubs the inside very effently ... I use this method for gas tanks, because the gravel trick often leaves a piece or two of gravel in there ..... with the chain, use a magnetic bolt retriver to get a hold on the chain and pull it out ... all of the chain will come out with no need to worry about a piece of gravel rubbing a hole in your tank from normal vibration of machinery (i learned that the hard way)

[@tubergonz]

I like a lot of these ideas. I had to hobble one together after buying one from a guy that sneakily replaced the 5 hp motor with a 1 hp one. I did build a tiny shed just big enough for the compressor outside my garage to free up space and minimize noise. I also put a sheet of foam/rubber under the compressor to further minimize noise. With the shed door closed, I can have a conversation and normal volume.

[@williammarvin8365]

That was a great video and I work for fire sprinkler company that uses air compressors for what we call a dry sprinkler system and that is a very neat way to do it. General compressors general being the name of the manufacturer don't really hold up but you made yours work pretty well. I'm impressed. Thank you

[@fix206]

Thanks for watching !

[@magic.marmot]

Excellent ingenuity.

[@fix206]

Thank you !!

[@fishsquishguy1833]

When I restored my Cutlass, I only had a 25 gal direct drive Craftsman compressor. It didn’t have enough SCFM to keep up with an HVLP gun so I borrowed my brothers that was the same model and ran them in tandem. It was in the summer so I was condensing so much water that an inline trap and small one at the gun wasn’t enough so I coiled 100’ of that cheap rigid airline in a 5 gal bucket and filled it with ice and water. Put a big water trap at the end and a smaller desiccant style at the gun and no issues! Full respray from bare metal too: epoxy primer, high build, base and clear. I’ve since replaced with a big 2 stage compressor but it is doable with “what you got”if you get a little innovative.

[@NolanMcIntyre-ho9hx]

I got lucky and found the pump on clearance during a liquidation sale. It only cost me $60! Building this myself taught me a lot about plumbing. Since I didn't have 240v power at the time, I modified an 11hp snow blower motor and used the same pressure vessel. The unloader valve was surprisingly the most expensive part. Awesome video!😊

[@fix206]

Good job brother! Comments like yours is the reason I do these videos. If I can inspire even one person then the time I spent on building/filming/editing was well spent 👍

[@bobhamilton298]

Harbor Freight sells a compressed air dryer for $500. I bought one years ago. Works great. Just make sure you run clean air into it.

Very well done! I like the added water-cooled condensation coil. That's a great idea I might decide to add to my own compressor. I'm not a big fan of oilless pumps. They don't last long, they're noisier, and not worth repairing when they crap out. I have a 5HP 2 cylinder oil bath compressor that I've left on 24/7 for years because I use air tools every day. The only thing I worry about is if it ever suddenly developed an air leak when I wasn't home and ran continuously to oblivion. I've been thinking about rigging up a current sensor that would start a timer every time the motor kicked on, and would automatically shut the power down if it ever stayed running continuously for more than a predetermined number of minutes.

[@gpdclocal3171]

i really really like that idea....might save the circuit breaker from letting things get too hot