Airbrush Basics Simplified | River Road - Vlog # 107

[@johnarthur6302]

I wholeheartedly agree with your opening statement. This IPA method has made the airbrush approachable for me - making it easy to clean means I use it a lot more, and the confidence and skill then come along with frequent use. Thanks for sharing with the community!

[@boomerdiorama]

Great to hear!

[@ChicagoCrossingRR]

These are outstanding tutorials. In the last year since starting to watch these, I've applied the lessons to my N-scale layout and the quality of the work has improved by leaps and bounds. The application of color theory to models and scenery painting to blend alone has made these incredibly worthwhile.

[@boomerdiorama]

Great to hear! N Scale is an awesome scale and there is no reason why most of this practice cannot apply to any scale. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@ModelRailroadTips]

I saw your video a few months ago regarding this, and tested it with yellow on a too tan MSC container. It worked amazing. Thank you! I've been telling people to watch your videos.

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it helped!

[@bretts7029]

Just had an awesome airbrush base coat session with Tamiya Deck Tan XF-78 and IPA the Boomer way. Effortless cleanup. Thanks, sir!

[@boomerdiorama]

Great to hear! Isn't it great!

[@TJRohyans]

I bought my first (and only) airbrush 17 years ago, an Omni 4000! I LOVE it! And I agree, Tamiya Acryls are fantastic paints.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes they are!

[@randytaylor1258]

All good info.👍 Really important to clean your airbrush as soon as you're done painting. Fresh paint is easy to deal with -- the longer you leave it the harder it gets and hard paint can be a bear to clean. In the bad old days of enamels I used to clean with lacquer thinner --dissolves anything. My first airbrush was a cheap plastic Badger that I ran off the air in my dad's Triumph TR-3a spare tire! I won contests with that little beast.

[@boomerdiorama]

I still have some old single action Badgers as well. They do the job for sure. Cheers.

[@PostmoderneModelWorks]

I think I used my airbrush maybe a dozen times in the past decade. After watching your first couple of videos all the things you said made a lot of sense to me and now I probably use it a dozen times a week now.

[@boomerdiorama]

I use my airbrush for almost every model I paint. Furthermore, I paint all my scenery elements with it as well.

[@PostmoderneModelWorks]

@@boomerdiorama yep, you had me at “I paint everything”. Still don’t have the courage to paint my entire diorama purple though :-)

[@johnbanicki7232]

Great video. One of the things holding me back from using an airbrush is the maintenance. Time to break out the airbrush!

[@boomerdiorama]

I never think of airbrush maintenance when I use IPA based acrylic and cleaning. It is quick and easy and compels me to use my airbrush more. ;-)

[@MyFingerLakesRailwayLayout]

I have two airbrushes - Paasche #5 - for Vallejo Model Air - I add a couple drops of Vallejo Flow Improver to the cup - cleaned with hot water. And a cheap Harbor Freight double action airbrush for Tamiya - cleaned with IPA. I agree with your point about ease of cleaning (very good demo) - But I would also add Ease of Access - If you have to go assemble your paint booth and dig out your compressor and go get your airbrush - You will be less likely to use it. I keep mine handy, under the kitchen table LOL!

[@boomerdiorama]

I shoot small amounts of IPA/Tamiya so I just open the window and turn on a fan. Been doing it this way for twenty five years with no issues. The IPA carrier solvent evaporates and the paint goes on the model. if you get in close with a narrow spray pattern there is very little over-spray to be concerned about.

[@Fred-Wilbury]

You are right Boomer my Iwata lives in the box , fed up cleaning when using enamels and Vallejo paints probably the best is to the enamel and Vallejo for brush painting thanks Boomer I’ve learnt so much from being 73 and still learning regards Fred

[@boomerdiorama]

One of the main reasons I went with Tamiya was ease of cleaning. Then I quickly discovered Tamiya was one of the best flat primer pigments available in the hobby industry that many seem to overlook.

[@205004gs]

Awesome tutorial! An airbrush is a really a must have for modeling projects, and a clean one, I've found out, is very important for an even flow and no lumps and skips. IPA works wonders. I've never tried oil paints. Windsor Newton makes water mixable ones, but I use those for detailing with a brush. Great job as always!

[@boomerdiorama]

Windsor & Newton "Oil" Pigments are the best in the world. They have been in the business for over two hundred years!

[@edwardfall7662]

Boomer, after a 40yr hiatus in model railroading, I'm finding it challenging coming up to speed with all the changes that have transpired since the early '80's, much of it owing to advances in technology which I confess eludes me most of the time. I really have appreciated all the efforts you have expended to pass on all that you have learned from a lifetime of building scale model railroads among other things. It inspires me to press ahead despite often times feeling intimidated by all that I don't know. That said, I wonder if you could offer some guidance about air brushes and associated equipment as I'm looking to get one (had a Binks at one point but it seems to have disappeared somewhere along the line). Do you have a preference between siphon feed and gravity feed air brushes? I have a gravity feed touch up gun that I have used for automotive painting that I've done periodically but it's too big for the small scale of model painting. So I'm planning on purchasing a small air brush, probably a Paasche model of some sort and probably a small compressor as well since my 60 gallon compressor in the garage that powers my blast cabinet is too large and remote from the basement where the layout will be located. Any insights would help. Again many thanks for all you do, it is a blessing to all of us in the hobby!

[@boomerdiorama]

Pasche is a good choice for an Airbrush. I don't care really if its's siphon feed, or gravity feed. It's the compressor that matters at the end of the day. I would recommend a small contractor compressor (like a 2HP Makita with tank) for the airbrush. Avoid the so-called "Airbrush Compressors" that are so lame they often produce more water and frustration than air. Furthermore, Pasche makes the best air hoses as well. ;-) Cheers.

[@MRR_Shadowolf]

Great tutorial! Thanks for sharing!

[@boomerdiorama]

You are so welcome!

[@grahamspalding2255]

Superb video 👏👏👍

[@boomerdiorama]

Hey! . . . Thank you! Cheers ~ Boomer. 😁

[@shawnpowell5876]

Great video and tutorial of the importance of cleaning an airbrush properly. I too have been using IPA for idk how long and it makes cleaning a cake walk! I've kept IPA stocked up for as long as I can remember and there's no reason not to when it's so inexpensive.

[@boomerdiorama]

You know it!

[@jdmodels1968]

Another great video, almost identical to what I do these days. I've always airbrushed with Tamiya acrylics but using IPA to clean it out has been a revelation (as has the change from a syphon to gravity feed) The only thing I do that you didn't cover in the video is that, once I'm finished for the day, I usually leave some IPA in the paint cup as well.

[@boomerdiorama]

Great tip!

[@bobainsworth5057]

This has been my problem for quite some time. I'm hoping by the end of this summer I'll be using it. Thanks for doing this video, I never had anyone around who could show me these things. Some of them are I instinctive but some are not. You should have seen me panic the first time I took brush apart, I didn't know how the trigger went back together, had to play with it for 1/2 hr all the time thinking I can't afford another air brush at least not if my wife found out I broke it. Everytime I take it out I wonder what other trouble I'll get into this time🥴.

[@boomerdiorama]

Take a few pics with your phone before disassembly. ;-)

[@randytaylor1258]

Kalmback Pub's -- Model Railroader -- also publishes FineScale Modeler. Their editor, Aaron Skinner wrote a magazine-sized softcover book a few years ago on airbrushing. It's a super reference on airbrushes, air sources, paints, and thinkers. Highly recommended. It may not come up with your matte finish paints and small subjects but Tamiya airbrush thinner formula lays the paint out, giving a ripple-free finish. Pledge/Future does the same thing, but adding Tamiya matte medium dulls down the shine.

[@wilzdart]

Boomer, if there ever was a true statement about Air Brushing, if you want to get better at it you have to use it. Since you give tips to all of us, let you give you one. I clean acrylics out with a kitchen cleaner called Fantastic, have for years. I buy it for under $3.00. I also leave 4 drops in the cup while it sits. I also polish my needle with with Flitz , a metal polish ,and have not had to (oil) my needle. Just want to say how much I enjoy watching your channel. As time permits watch your older vids. There is a wealth of knowledge in them.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks for sharing and happy to hear you are using your airbrush as well. ;-) Cheers.

[@bernicemeade3232]

Cannot wait till you start running some trains from Howard the best chef layout good job

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks 👍

[@K27fan]

I just had my Iwata Eclipse worked on. Paint was getting all up in the body, the trigger, everything. Turns out there was no inner gasket, Im not sure if it came that way but its fixed now and working great. Ive become adept at taking it apart, I spray all acrylics because my lungs cant take the harsh lacquers. With all the colors on the market, no worries.

[@boomerdiorama]

Isopropyl Alcohol & Acrylics (IPA) won't eat the gaskets in your airbrush. They will last indefinitely. ;-)

[@boriskucke7053]

Thank`s for showing use this video. Your experience about airbrushing is amazing. One question: Can i mix Vallejo Modell Air Colors with IPA? Thanks and a happy stressless day. Boris

[@boomerdiorama]

I don't recommend it because Vallejo is not "ethanol" based acrylic like Tamiya is. People do it with very small amounts but I recommend you use the Vallejo thinner and then clean later with IPA. I like to use water-based Vallejo washes (applied with traditional brush) over Tamiya as well.

[@donhanley1213]

Instead of using the blue Windex try the green Zep window cleaner. It has alcohol as the primary agent instead of ammonia. It comes in one gal concentrate jugs. At one time I could pick it up at my local Home Depot, now I have to order it on line. In addition to cleaning glass it's a great product for cleaning hardwood floors. Owning a janitorial company we use this product extensively. As with most items if you can have a dual purpose use the better it is on the budget.

[@boomerdiorama]

Sounds good. Can't go wrong with any strength IPA.

[@alexinnewwest1860]

Just stumbled across your channel, You do amazing work! Very impressive! Plus I’m a rail loader at the Annacis Island auto terminal so I’m quite familiar with these engines :-)

[@boomerdiorama]

Welcome aboard! Glad to have you! This layout build has a long way to go yet but it's only been one year so far. Lot's of cool stuff up ahead. Cheers and thanks for sharing! ~ Boomer.

[@ralphrenzetti22]

Great video, can’t thank you enough!

[@boomerdiorama]

Cheers!

[@ralphrenzetti22]

Again, thank you! You don’t know how many times I’ve said this in my clinics and on my weathering show and I swear no one is listening! Now that you have said these very same thing, it will be like gospel! (‘…the more you do it the better you’ll get…’)

[@boomerdiorama]

@@ralphrenzetti22 Yes indeed. It works this way with everyone who is brave enough to try.😁

[@PeterTillman3]

Great video Boomer. I purchased the OMNI 5000 from Amazon however the model they sent me has a very small paint cup which is pretty much useless so i have gone back to my Badger.

[@boomerdiorama]

I have no issues with the paint cup I use. Use whatever you feel comfortable with. ;-)

[@PeterTillman3]

@@boomerdiorama The paint cup on the new OMNI 5000 is half the size of the paint cup on your OMNI 5000. I am still trying to find one with the same size as yours.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@PeterTillman3 That is strange. I think the cheaper Iwata has two with an interchangeable cup of different sizes.

[@PeterTillman3]

@@boomerdiorama yeah - I have an Iawata but the badger seems to be a good one and my preferred. Both have the big cups. At the end of the day, per your advice, if you use Tamiya and IPA then airbrushing is so easy and the results are unparalleled

[@cstuettgen]

What Tamiya colors would you recommend for a person get who switching from Floquil and Scalecoat to acrylic?

[@boomerdiorama]

I would only recommend Tamiya if you plan to use an airbrush eventually. Otherwise I prefer Vallejo when I use a traditional paint brush. Tamiya does not work as well with a traditional brush. Tamiya is excellent pigment but it likes to be sprayed unless you just use it as a wash. Try the Vallejo, the color range is off the charts and you can clean your brush with water and IPA. But don't thin Vallejo with IPA, just use water or their thinner.

[@cstuettgen]

@@boomerdiorama I will be using an airbrush. In fact I just bought the Thayer & Chandler Omni 5000 you recommended to replace an old no name siphon style airbrush I've been using for several years. Previously I had been using laquer based paint in the siphon airbrush but want to switch only using Tamiya Acrylic for airbrushing and use Vallejo for washes. As there are so many choices of both Tamiya and Vallejo, I am looking for some guidance on choosing a selection of colors to begin with. The only paint I currently have is the Vallejo 71.186 Rust & Chipping Effects collection of 8 colors which include the following: 70.605 German Red Brown 71.042 Dark Brown RLM61 71.080 Rust 71.129 Light Rust 71.130 Orange Rust 71.033 Yellow Ochre 73.214 Chipping Medium 70.520 Matt Varnish I've tried to make a list of the various Tamiya and Vallejo colors you have used in your videos, but it has become quite extensive. I realize the color choices will dictated by each project but if you could provide a list of your go-to colors that you use most often, it would be helpful and most appreciated.

[@colossalbigfoot256]

I found out accidentally how well ipa cleans various paints. Good video cause this is partly what steers people away. But you can’t match an airbrush for versatility.

[@boomerdiorama]

You can achieve (blending) results, and "filters" from an airbrush that is virtually impossible to achieve with a traditional paint brush.

[@OtterCreek]

How does Tamiya perform on brass?

[@boomerdiorama]

If you lay it on heavy it's a great primer. Although if you are painting a "treasured" brass locomotive I would use a specific primer for "ferrous" metal first. Then you can paint with Tamiya over top when the primer cures.

[@jimschneider5193]

Bommer your tutorials are killer. Have you ever painted a brass engine with Tamiya acrylics?

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you. Yes I have painted brass locomotives and cars with Tamiya Acrylics. It is always important to put on a good quality primer for "ferrous" metal before you do, especially brass. Then paint with Tamiya.

[@ericp6612]

The IPA works great for cleaning and it really only takes a few minutes! Boomer where do you get those rags with the blue stripe? Are those reusable? Thanks

[@boomerdiorama]

You can get them from "Janitor" supply stores. They are "Premium Food Service Towels." You can recycle them in the washer for reuse as well.

[@ericp6612]

Thanks!

[@jstockton303]

Great video, thanks for more helpful tips using an air brush. What lube did you use?

[@boomerdiorama]

Light hobby oil. You can but that oil dispenser at almost any hobby shop. Any oil will do because it all disappears shortly anyway due to IPA and cleaning.

[@railfan1956]

Boomer, I have had a airbrush for a long time but never used it. How do you cut acrylic paint to be used in an airbrush? Thanks

[@boomerdiorama]

It depends on the Acrylic paint you use. I only cut Tamiya with IPA at any strength you want - very thin. If it's too thin for your liking then add more pigment. You can't go wrong if you build up the layers. I start with 50/50 ratio Paint to IPA.

[@westernstatesrailroading]

What compressor do you use? What do you recommend?

[@boomerdiorama]

The Makita MAC 700. Review is here:aircompressorsusa.com/makita-mac-700-review/

[@westernstatesrailroading]

@@boomerdiorama thanks!

[@bnrailfannz8262]

Yes, I'd say it was the thought ages ago that put me off using my spray gun. Mind you, it sounds like it wouldnt even have enough " power" to blow away the cobwebs. But great tutorial there Boomer :-)

[@boomerdiorama]

You need a small (2HP) contractor compressor with a tank and regulator. No need for a water trap when using IPA based paint as well. The IPA evaporates any moisture before it hits the model. You save a lot of paint and time as well when you learn to use the airbrush, not to mention the unreal finish one can achieve.

[@anthonygunter4064]

What type and brand of oil are you using in this video? I don't want to assume and buy the wrong type.

[@boomerdiorama]

It's just light hobby oil. Nothing fancy. It gets blown out in a hurry anyway with IPA.

[@joelvale3887]

Sometime we hate to clean something, until we need it again is when we pay the price for not doing it the first time.

[@boomerdiorama]

I never lament or even think about cleaning my airbrush anymore. It's just part of the process I do subconsciously, which yields excellent results over-and-over again. ;-)

[@joelvale3887]

@@boomerdiorama I learned my lesson, now I do it like you.

[@4x4trick]

Hi Boomer I have an airbrush question. I really enjoy your videos And your practical advice. I have been laying track on my first layout. I am one of those Jack of all trades guys. Anyway I just bought my first air brush. Master Airbrush Model G22 Multi-Purpose Dual-Action Gravity Feed Airbrush Set I have been a painter for 40 years. But know little about airbrushes My air brush doesn't seem right to me When depressing the trigger for air It has a hard spot and then it clicks and goes the rest of the way down. Is that normal or is something wrong?

[@boomerdiorama]

It shouldn't click as you say. It should be smooth. It sounds like the "valve" is sticking. The valves have a rubber diaphragm to seal off the air. You could try putting a drop of oil at the bottom of the trigger pin that pushes down on it and work it in some. The problem with the airbrush market is there are tons of cheap versions around as well. If that does not work think of getting one of the introductory Iwatas called the "Neo."

[@Vman7757]

Thanks for sharing. I now have to 5000 thanks to you. LOL Sooo? You show the Lube. What is the lube? Sewing machine oil? Le Bell?

[@boomerdiorama]

Light hobby oil of any kind.

[@donaldkormos5529]

Do you have to use 99% IPA or can one use 90% IPA available from any drugstore?

[@boomerdiorama]

You can use 50% - 99% and anything in between if it's Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA). Percentage is just the concentrate level. I buy the highest percentage because it can be thinned with distilled water more if I choose.

[@rhodesj1893]

Boomer sir. I was wondering if you could direct me to a materials list of which specific golden and liquitex products you use .. I learned there was a variety within the professional category of liquitex and golden I couldn't remember nor find on film what your container looked like, though I know you've shown it. Thank you sir. It would be a great help.

[@boomerdiorama]

I use Liquitex "Matte" medium and Golden "Fiber" paste for most of my scenery mediums.

[@rhodesj1893]

I know that was relatively a "duh " question but the reason I asked it is while shopping for something I thought would be simple was given the choice of many different products all with the same general description all with different colored labels. One went as far as to say matte medium "gloss". I wish I could upload pics to show ya. So I threw the brakes on and figured I'd ask for clarity sake.

[@rhodesj1893]

The matte medium gloss threw me for a loop because I thought that was French for flat...lol

[@garryjohnson5310]

What type of oil do you use for lubing the airbrush?

[@boomerdiorama]

Any light hobby oil.

[@mikemettelka7432]

That airbrush sells now with a smaller cup!

[@boomerdiorama]

It's a great airbrush and I would purchase another one. I have never had a need for a larger cup because the trick is to spray super thin paint in small quantities., That is why they make them. ;-) Cheers.

[@mikemettelka7432]

@@boomerdiorama I purchased it on your recommendation.... and several other things as well, just trying to decide if I want to get a contractor compressor, or if I want to run a dedicated line from my big air compressor that I use for metal work. I would need a regulator, and a dryer if I do that as the big compressor generates a lot of water in the lines.

[@boomerdiorama]

@@mikemettelka7432 I never have a problem with water in the lines when using a contractor compressor. DO you drain the tank daily on the larger one?

[@mikemettelka7432]

@@boomerdiorama I am looking at the cost of all the stuff to connect it.... it wouldn't be much more to have a dedicated compressor.... I think that will be the safest route to go

[@boomerdiorama]

@@mikemettelka7432 The airbrush won't put hard time on the compressor anyway. Take care of it and it lasts twenty five years!

[@RB55able]

Great tutorial on airbrush cleaning, Boomer. The big take away for me is as you have pointed out in the past: "Tamiya acrylics and IPA are made for airbrushes and airbrushes are made for Tamiya acrylics and IPA."

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes indeed!

[@ronaldvanpinxteren3644]

Boomer what kind of lubricant are you using? Cheers Ronald

[@boomerdiorama]

Hobby Oil. Any light sewing machine Oil will do.

[@ronaldvanpinxteren3644]

@@boomerdiorama thanks appriciate