Airbrushing gloss enamel paint.a steep learning curve

[@chrisvaughan159]

Yes Steve your video's help everyone who has these problems.

[@Steven_Rowe]

I would like to think so. I just want to feel I'm actually proficient at something.

[@brianmillar5075]

Steve the best rule of thumb is add thinners until when you shake the bottle the thinned paint will drop off the sides and allow the sides to go clear. Also check your pressure while you have the trigger pressed on your airbrush it should be around 22-25psi. with the trigger open, if you set the pressure to 22-25psi. without the trigger pressed you may only have about 18psi. which can cause splattering of the paint.

[@Steven_Rowe]

You are correct but I think the indicator and this is subjective is how long does it take to go clear. If you put straight paint in it will probably just stay on the glass, to much thinners and its rund down. Some say put it in jar and shake it up and if it sounds like skim milk shaken then it's right, but again that is incredibly subjective.. I can spray satin and matt ok but gloss is difficult. Anyway once the transfers are on and i put an eggshell varnish .it should be OK.

[@daveharding3207]

Hi Steve. Don't know if this is any help but it's what I do. Airbrush pressure set to 30psi, paint and thinner the consistency of milk, and then I do several light coats, allowing 5-10 minutes in between each one. I've only ever had a problem when I've used an old tin of paint. Love the videos, I look forward to seeing how you're getting on with things. 😊

[@Steven_Rowe]

@@daveharding3207 I used to spray at 30 but dropped it back. The milk bit is subjective and sadly the ratio of paint to thinners is not an exact science. Yesterday I mixed 50/50 and I watch it run down the side of the glass mixing beaker. I sprayed some photo paper and found that when I thinned it further the results got so much better The problem is so many variables I may try higher pressure again Also I try to use new tins

[@daryletoney8118]

Hi Steve, I have been painting models professionally for around 30 years and I would like you to try something, using your etch primer rattle can, spray a sheet of brass, sweeping from one side to another, only depressing the nozzle from either side for each sweep across the surface, it is imperative that you maintain a 'wet' surface to enable the paint to reform/ fuse into a finish. Let me know how it goes.

[@Steven_Rowe]

That is what I do. it goes on well and I lay it on so it's wet, but it's a fine line between wet and a runthe other fgrey primer non etch also goes on well and it has a low sheen to it unlike the etch

[@daryletoney8118]

​@@Steven_Rowewatch your video, you keep the trigger on continuously, start off the job, a slow steady sweep across, release and start across again, if you go too quickly the paint will atomise, which are most likely the cause of contamination in previous vids, also, I never thin with more than 25 percent thinner, I'm only trying to help, not criticise.

[@Steven_Rowe]

@@daryletoney8118 I don't mind opinions, only I fool doesn't think things through. Iain Rathbone talks about a good starting point being 50 50. I got better results on the photo paper with around 60/40. . I don't stop at the ends because I'm actually going past the job, but I'm going to try your way. The gloss is hard, it's much easier with satin or matt.

[@Stanb662000]

Ya, Humbrol is getting scarce in Aus these days. I used Tamiya as a base on the 3F , not sure it stuck any better than SMS Lacquer, but at least it didn't blend when doing detail work with the brush

[@Steven_Rowe]

Stan, I think enamel is better paint than accrylic and I h a vent used accrylic lacquer so won't comment on that. One problem, I see with pre thinned accrylic laquer is I don't think you can brush paint say to touch up so that could be an issue for me

[@Stanb662000]

@@Steven_Rowe I still prefer enamels, however with the inability of getting accurately coloured enamels I had to try acrylics. My initial experiment with Life-color, water based acrylics was not a huge success: they stick OK on plastic, but are still fragile - Great for getting a chipped paint look ( you can see the result on my Dapol 16T repaints), but not so good on metal. I haven't tried them, but I expect Railmatch wouldn't be too different. That leaves Outlaw for "prototype" UK colours, with the widely available SMS for everything else. SMS do have a range - "advance" of 10ml bottles of thicker paint for brush work, and I tend to use those for detail work, with the regular 30ml range for spraying. Once properly hardened they seem to adhere as well as anything else, but care must still be taken or they will chip or wear readily. The main issue I have with the Lacquers is the propesity of the thinners to re-liquify any previous coats - which can be a problem when touching up, or doing any detail work. it is possible to mitigate this a little by using different brands of paint - I've picked up a few Tamiya and Gunze Metallics for this express reason ( and SMS dont do a brass in the advance range), but I have has some fun touching up buffer beams and the like.. This year, having done several locomotives, and a number of ABS white-metal and etched wagons, I decided to use Tamiya X-1 black as a base coat on the 3F, with subsequent coats being lacquer based. The only variation to my method this time was when weathering I applied various washes ( Mr Hobby oil-based) before hitting it with pigments. All of this was sealed in with a coat of SMS Flat clear which toned everything down to give a well used, but not totally filthy look.

[@Steven_Rowe]

@@Stanb662000 I also think enamels are harder wearing.and on brass 0 gauge locos that is important. There is so much on the market it can do your head in

[@clivemoore9550]

Hi Steve I have been spray painting large scale flying aircraft models for several years as well as O gauge railway models. I don’t class myself as any kind of expert but this is what I have learned re orange peel. 1) set your PSI with the trigger on the gun open. The pressure drops by a few PSI when the trigger is open so if you set it at 22 psi with the trigger closed you are actually spraying nearer 18 psi. 2) if the distance between the spray gun and model is too great this will also cause orange peel as the thinner will be evaporating before the paint gets to the model surface. 3) you seem to be trying to get to the finished coat in one hit. I always build up to this. Usually with two or often three light coats then the final wet coat. Two much paint in one coat can cause orange peel. 4) Once I have cleaned the model ready for spraying I don’t touch it again not even with gloves on. I use cocktail sticks in the buffer holes. 5) cleanliness is so important but difficult to achieve. If there is any suspended dust in the air, a particular problem in hot dry climates, the spray gun will “pull” the dust onto the model. Hope that helps and keep your videos coming Good luck Clive

[@Steven_Rowe]

@@clivemoore9550 I always adjust the pressure so the psi whilst air is flowing.. I will take on board your technique and I am going to invest more time spraying some brass sheet. The only way you get better is by practise.