Airsoft Diaries 2: AEG Rebuild - Tuned Cylinder Set

[@democracy2005]

any updates about this build? im curious how its going?

[@htwarrior6801]

Thank you for asking. The G3's metal body shell is currently beat. And until I find some way or someone to refurb it, it's going to be on hold. Although I'm working on making my way to an alternate test bed, a used ICS m4 to adapt the build for those who just want to see the stats. As of right now it's missing some parts and I don't want to rush and show you guys a half baked build. Currently, a friend's G36C is also in for repairs which is the video I am working on at this time, and it has reference info I think is important to get out there. In other news, my last few videos have been about fixing some things on my WE F226 to get it operating properly It's been some time since I've played airsoft and some changes happened these past two years that served as road blocks to this project's progress. I'm forced to prioritize the repairs on other airsoft guns for now which are relatively easier to accomplish. However, I will say. The G3 is an important project to me. So I will be completing it for sure. I just don't want to cut corners and decided to work on the basics at this time. Hope you all are still with me when the time comes. I deeply apologize for the delay!

[@ddlmln7830]

How great the way you explain mechanisms and improvings.. I'm really thankful for this! Definitely subscribed!

[@htwarrior6801]

Thank you for the kind words.

[@V1P3RSlab]

You Reyes to increase surface area making sketches on pad, but superflue do not needs that. And also superflue became rigid when dryers. Better will be to use a flexible glue.

[@htwarrior6801]

Great idea! Like a gasket sealant adhesive? Maybe RTV? Some stuff to try! 😉

[@alextatkin1026]

DO NOT follow this guide unless you want a ton of dead space in your cylinder. Especially for a DSG build, you never want to use a huge sorbo pad. Your air volume in a DSG really matters. This guy gets most things right, but I guarantee you can get the same performance with a much weaker spring if you eliminate dead space properly.

[@htwarrior6801]

You are right. Air volume matters. Though I tend to not run barrels longer than 450 mm on my own builds or target too high of an over volume ratio.

[@filmntvguy1977]

What about cutting towards yourself with a scalpel? I can’t watch.

[@be-happy2929]

I read your blog. Very logical explanation. Your explanation is really useful. Thanks!!

[@htwarrior6801]

Thank you for checking it out! There's honestly more to cover! I have alternative methods in the works to cover, and will get back with a follow up video and post.

[@be-happy2929]

That's what I feel too.

[@be-happy2929]

Btw, I have a question. If I go for accuracy build, semi, how should I approach it.

[@htwarrior6801]

For accuracy, I would look at work on the hop up and barrel first. Use heavier BBs, and look into air volume matching and consistency, second. I bought some R-Hop patches to try, but I'm not quite there yet. The idea is to increase the contact area of the hop on the BB. Look for play and resolve any play on the hop arm, and make sure it applies force square and evenly. Check the inner barrel for straightness by rolling it on a flat surface. There's more, like lapping, wide bores, flutes, grooves, etc. Use a heavy barrel. Ensure it is spotless and clean all throughout. We'll go more in depth into these as I progress through the projects, but I hope I've given you a head start.

[@be-happy2929]

I have done some work on the hop up to ensure there is no play. I'm trying to figure out how to have the patch remains concave when the hop up arm is pushing it down. I feel like when I install the patch it's concave, but when the arm is pushing it, the patch becomes flat.

[@MaroWolf]

with this bumper you have just reduced the cylinder volume and the amount of air pushed out by the piston which is very important. this translates into ball speed

[@htwarrior6801]

Thank you for your comment. The benefits of AOE correction outweigh any cons brought about by loss of cylinder air volume in an AEG. Adjusting the ratio between the cylinder and inner barrel remedies this.

[@MaroWolf]

@@htwarrior6801 then you have a lower muzzle velocity and therefore a smaller range. the shots are more precise but the range is smaller. in my M4 I changed a spring, a piston without a bumper, a barrel. I now have an effective, precise shot up to 100m.

[@htwarrior6801]

@@MaroWolf 100m is quite good. What FPS / Joules are you getting? More important than velocity, air volume does help the cylinder to barrel ratio to push joules if that's what you mean. I do not mean to downplay the effect of BB speed, but I find that hop up and compression consistency help with accuracy at range more than velocity. Just the same, a heavier main spring can always be swapped in to push FPS up again if that is the goal, and thanks to the sorbo pad, the shell will handle almost any added stress no problem.

[@MaroWolf]

@@htwarrior6801 460fps/3Joule.

[@htwarrior6801]

@@MaroWolf That's about between 0.30g and 0.32g BBs. Is this what you are running?

[@ghostwalkerairsofttech1947]

How did you correct aoe without putting the spring in? You should always put the spring in when correcting aoe. It will take up any slack when the sorbo pad compresses. Personally, from my perspective, that didn't look like a sorbo pad, looked more like a faucet washer, which is ok. But still if you dont put the spring in you'll never know if your AOE is right and you could still strip pistons.

[@htwarrior6801]

Thank you! I will try next time. The spring was a little too strong for me to hold onto by hand. I'll be sure to take this up in a revision.

[@roberttomes6085]

excellent work whats next

[@htwarrior6801]

Thank you for asking! It seems a lot of people want to know what happened to this project. I was hoping to come back to it at a later time when I explored the more current techniques. I guess for my next video I will have to address this. In the meantime I posted some videos on an aeg repair and a couple of GBB pistol mods that I hope you will take a look at as well. Thanks for taking the time to watch my videos!

[@alexrunkovsky8749]

Для выставления AOE я вырезаю шайбы из резины, которая служит прокладкой между баллоном и диском тракторного колеса. Сколько лет лежит на улице и никак не сгниёт, лол. Отличная устойчивость к ударным нагрузкам.

[@htwarrior6801]

Мне пришлось воспользоваться онлайн-переводчиком, чтобы понять. Извините, если мой перевод плохой. Спасибо вам за вашу историю! Это здорово, что вы смогли сделать некоторые из прокладок, которые вы нашли. Я буду иметь это в виду. Похожи ли они на материал прокладок крышки двигателя? Какую коробку передач AEG и версии вы используете?

[@bronkobrumby776]

Looking good. I also read your description and you say that this bore-up cylinder has a inner diameter of 24.9mm. Sadly due airsoft tolerances and that the producteurs don't give any more detailed information, ore-up can switch from 24.3 to 24.9mm ID. So u would like to know, which brand you used, so i could calculate the volume properly if it fits my needs. Of course i would like to have the cylinder with the larges volume possible, so would be helpful to know the brand you used, because i already know the inner diameter of 24.9mm

[@htwarrior6801]

It seems the plastic caliper I had at the time had too much flex and managed to read 24.9 mm. With the steel caliper I have now it is reading more like 24.5 mm. It is a Guarder type-0 bore up cylinder which came as a set. Hope this helps! Links updated from http to https as well so they load properly. Thanks! 👍

[@bronkobrumby776]

@@htwarrior6801 That you for the fast answer! Well happens, 24.5mm ID seems to be the max volume possible. I measured 24.3 on an (older) SHS Set and also 24.5mm on a Hurricane set. But both cylinders are not that great. The polish is quite rough. It seals good, but the o-ring of the pistonhead makes a strange squeaky rubbing noise. Hope the guarder set has better quality!

[@htwarrior6801]

@@bronkobrumby776 Have you tried lightly lubing the piston head o-ring? I'm thinking of sticking with standard cylinders and just making adjustments on the inner barrel dimensions to get the ratio I need.

[@bronkobrumby776]

@@htwarrior6801 No the noise comes from the machining, there are fine circular ridges in the cylinder. Nothing with not can be fixed for sure, but when i pay such money for a stupid cylinder or even a set, i want good quality for my money.

[@htwarrior6801]

@@bronkobrumby776 Sorry to hear that. Hopefully you find what you are looking for.

[@warning_u7191]

THX

[@htwarrior6801]

👍🏻

[@robinpeetermans5461]

Nice , very nice work . I like it a lot . But wath is your rate of fire and trigger response and fps

[@htwarrior6801]

Hi robin Peetermans! Thank you for asking! This video was suppost to be part of a series that builds up to the actual completed unit with ROF and fps tests. Unfortunately, some stuff happened and I have to start from scratch. Getting ready to do a rebuild again, but it will take time as other videos will take priority while I muster up the funds and schedule to do so. orz Keep a lookout on my channel for the update! Count on it!

[@robinpeetermans5461]

@@htwarrior6801 I'm looking forward to it 😁😁 I'm learning a lot about the video's you are making and I actually have take some things from the video's en do it alsow in my M4

[@htwarrior6801]

@@robinpeetermans5461 Happy to hear that!

[@brianrapley567]

MATE IM KNEW TO THIS SO I NEED TO ASK IF THE NOZZEL FULLY FORWARD INTO THE HOP UP WHY DO THE TRIM OF THE FRONT OF THE TAPPET PLATE?

[@htwarrior6801]

This is usually done to move the existing nozzle slightly further into the chamber and hop packing for a better air seal. Between about half a mm to a mm forward without having to opt for a longer air seal nozzle. Sometimes changing out the air seal nozzle for a longer one can end up blocking BBs in the magazine from entering the hop chamber.

[@brianrapley567]

@@htwarrior6801 Ah ok now i understand thankyou for replying i really appreciate it and i look forward to more vids mate.

[@htwarrior6801]

@@brianrapley567 👍

[@claudekim7876]

Sorbo is usless nowadays and it squishes way too much for aoe correction. Different sized faucet washers are better. Pretty sure most high end dsg uses them. (Even the dsg justice guys prebuilt one they sell)

[@htwarrior6801]

Will try that!

[@pallaszlo7976]

Airsoft ASMR 🤣👍

[@htwarrior6801]

Great idea for part 3! 😅

[@formicthearchdruid6763]

If you want 50 + rps you have to add so much pading and lose alot of compresion space.. And AOE must be prfect for buld like that ... or you will have alot of repairs.. every detail here is needed Super light Bat Head..Nozle will move 50 times per sec that is alot of friction and nozle carier must be prfectly inserted... It is good to have someting on gear smal pice of metal grindeing on that plastic for every rotation will chew thrue plastic fast. You will go wrong with 1 thing and preeasure on bat and nozle plastic will be to great to handle. 12 a clock aoe or you will put alot of preasure on 1 gear.

[@htwarrior6801]

Thank you! Great insights! Thing's to try out when I come across DSG again!

[@eero979]

12 clock aoe is usually off

[@htwarrior6801]

@@eero979 Off?

[@eero979]

@@htwarrior6801 kzbin.info/www/bejne/qXqakpqLmbqmsJY (3.40)

[@alextatkin1026]

And AOE has ZERO effect on gearboxes cracking. Cmon man....

[@htwarrior6801]

Yes, it's mostly to preserve piston and gear teeth.

[@laagtamgaboss]

Lack of details.

[@rick31869]

on my sector gear i have a solid piece of steel that looks like a light bulb /teardrop . i have noticed on most ive seen on youtube there are only two dots or two steel rod inserts ,i wonder if this is best or worst for moving the tappet plate ?

[@hector971000]

R G most KZbinrs have an upgraded sector gear

[@happyrobot6396]

Hector Rst "most youtubers" "upgraded sector gear" Please stop

[@hector971000]

dmart63 ?

[@htwarrior6801]

Those two "dots" or pins actuates the tappet plate twice per single sector gear revolution. That is the case for dual sector gears, which is a popular upgrade to increase rate of fire, and likely the reason you see it a lot on youtube. The single pin/post actuates the tappet once and is the normal default setup for most out of factory AEG. It is more common as that's what comes stock most of the time.

[@standabednar9792]

hey very cool video ,going to re-build my AK to some DSG monster next year :) What parts are you using in this video ?

[@htwarrior6801]

Thanks Standa Bednář. Glad you enjoyed the video. This video focuses more on the cylinder set, but other parts that made an appearance include: 1. Lonex v2 cylinder head 2. Systema Type 2 cylinder 3. Lonex v2 tappet plate 4. Stock nozzle 5. Sorbothane Pad** 6. G&G Dual Sector Gear* 7. Systema v2 gearbox 8. SHS piston body w/ metal tooth rack 9. Lonex Piston Head ** I may no longer recommend using sorbothane pads for "extreme" DSG builds. I haven't been able to test out the threshold as the build came to an ubrupt stop and is currently on hold until I can pick things up again, but they might just hold up fine in a moderate DSG set up. *You'll have to do some research on the G&G DSG as it went untested. I lost the build to house fire before I could finish it. So it'll be on hold until further notice and the parts used may change. But don't let that stop you. Theres a ton of info floating around out there.

[@jerbug8028]

link for the sorbothane pads?

[@htwarrior6801]

Unfortunately Scatterplot no longer sells. However there are likely other vendors who have their own kind depending where you live.

[@shaun536]

Don't use those in a build ever. It is better to correct aoe using nylon washers behind your piston head then to do this.

[@richardmcclain4044]

What can I do for a gear box that's all plastic

[@htwarrior6801]

Depends on the type of plastic. Some plastic gearboxes I've encountered were made out of Lexan, which is a tough material. Apply a Sorbothane pad to the cylinder head so it absorbs some of the shock from the piston and mainspring. Make sure the cylinder head rests against the shell properly. Radius the corners of the cylinder windows VERY lightly since it is plastic. Too much and they will fracture. And don't go overboard with the mainspring rating.

[@richardmcclain4044]

@@htwarrior6801 what does that plastic look like? I'm try a build from scrap and parts I have around the house. I found the gearbox on a job I was on roofing.

[@htwarrior6801]

@@richardmcclain4044 Try doing a google search for Ares plastic gearboxes. I read a forum post somewhere stating it was Lexan, but I was never personally able to confirm. A friend of mine has an Ares L85 afv and it has a plastic gearbox. Try pairing with a plastic cylinder head as well.

[@richardmcclain4044]

How can i find free parts? I found a broken gel blaster frame, or body don't know the proper name for it. But is broken at the barrel think it the part were the picatinny rail's go. Or do you know how to fix that

[@richardmcclain4044]

Does anyone know how or where to find free airsoft part's or cheap parts don't have money to buy expensive parts. Teaching myself how to do brake downs , And rebuilds. But don't know how to get cheap or free parts. Any Help ill be truly grateful.... please

[@happyrobot6396]

That sorbo ain't gonna last long if you don't add a protective layer

[@htwarrior6801]

dmart63 Yes, apparently so. I hear this is prevalent in more extreme builds. I will update this video in its next iteration. Thanks!

[@happycatenclosuresptyltd7556]

What do you add as a protective layer?

[@dumbanddumber5023]

neoprene pad on top of the sorbo

[@dansantillan5108]

the cyclinder you used is incorrect. you should have used type2

[@htwarrior6801]

I will try it!

[@adrianiacob1991]

I know I am over 3 years late on my comment, but shouldn't you remove last two teeth from the piston, in order to have enough time to travel back, before being grabbed by dual sector gear? Otherwise you may risk a incomplete cycle at every two...

[@htwarrior6801]

No worries. You're not late at all. This project is still on going since it was halted due to unforeseen circumstances. I'm not really sure what you are asking since I removed teeth from both ends. However, I do have more photos on my blog and Instagram posted May 2017 that maybe you can take a look at and point out so I have a better understanding of which teeth we're looking into.

[@adrianiacob1991]

@@htwarrior6801 good point. I was reffering to end teeth, since you already corrected AOE. Better to loose 1/10 of an inch of piston travel IOT leave piston rest 1-2 miliseconds before second half of sector gear engages it. Pls. excuse my English, I'm not a native. PS I must admit, I am myself more of a tinkerer than an airsoft player...

[@htwarrior6801]

@@adrianiacob1991 May I know what you mean by IOT? Don't worry, I get what you mean about avoiding the second set of sector gear teeth catching.

[@adrianiacob1991]

@@htwarrior6801 sorry, bad working habits. In Order To ...

[@rick31869]

bro i have an idea to turn my ignite blackops viper into a short range pesting rifle ,i have two ,one will be to powerful for legal play ,this is my goal ,i want a lot more fps ,now 360-420 ,i would love a 1000 fps but i guess 700 is prob a real option ,already when on auto fire ,i can cut a soda can in half ,i think it will destroy rats and such !!!! i was wondering wouldnt a much heavier piston push more air !!! help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! anything you can say will help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@rick31869]

to stiffen spring a bit just ad a few washers to guide rod ? !!!!

[@rick31869]

really enjoy all mods great work my friend !!!

[@rick31869]

also use a lot of teflon tape around cylinder head to get a really tight seal ,take oring off piston head a put on cylinder and heat a little with flame it will stretch it out a few hairs !!! makes a better seal in cylinder ,i sometimes use extra virgin olive oil as a super lube !!!!

[@htwarrior6801]

Hey man, first of all, thanks for dropping by! As for the heavier piston question: Under normal circumstances, the FPS would not change much, or at all, as you are pushing the same volume of air from your cylinder regardless of piston weight. In fact, a lighter piston may achieve a higher velocity at the end of its travel due to less inertia required to move it and also result in less stress for your gearboxes. As for when I'd use a heavier piston 🤔: Possibly if I were running a really tight tight-bore barrel and heavy bbs, the seal that the bbs would create in this combination as they are pushed out may actually cause some resistance that may require a heavy piston. Hope that helped in some way. ☺

[@htwarrior6801]

R G Ah I used to do the heat trick in the past as well! But recently the seals out of the box have been with acceptable tolerances. Maybe I've just been lucky. ☺ I forgot where I learnt it from. Probably another KZbinr.

[@congsonkven6814]

Totyo

[@htwarrior6801]

@Congson Kven Is this a genre?

[@danielpickrell8311]

Ay tang ina too much inpormaschun.