Margo Hayes's Resourceful Rests! | Beta Break Ep.17

[@Meta-Drew]

This may be one of my favorite beta breaks, I love it. You know you've really destroyed the beta when they have to change the rules

[@JamesWongLife]

The only KZbin series that can get me to watch someone resting for 5 minutes ahaha

[@letsprogress4124]

Props for including the whole thing. I think a lot of content creators would be hesitant to do so

[@windriver2363]

I liked the old 4+ bouldering format. I made for more drama and last minute efforts, since your attempt only ended when you fell. Having a competitor walk of the mats with 30 or 40 seconds left feels so anti-climactic. Instances of competitors taking long rests like this were rare and the problem was blown out of proportion. I feel like they should implement a 4+1 or 4+2 format. Where if you're on the boulder at the 4 minute mark you are allowed 1-2 more minutes to finish the attempt, but if you fall that's the end of it. It would be the best of both worlds, you still get athletes trying their all and dramatic finishes, but it eliminates the possibility of them resting for extraordinarily long times.

[@inazuma3gou]

I also enjoyed 4+ format because it allowed climbers to re-analyze the route before making their last attempt

[@noambrecin4394]

I finaly found someone who chalk up more than magnus mitbo on a boulder XD

[@TheKevinFanClub526]

Wait until you see a climber with palmar hyperhidrosis. I have to chalk up several times for a V2.

[@ianrasmussen5380]

@@TheKevinFanClub526 Wow, you're practicing the sport on hard mode! Rough. If I may ask a question: have you tried liquid chalk and does it last any differently?

[@TheKevinFanClub526]

@@ianrasmussen5380 Yes. I have been using liquid chalk lately due gym restrictions. With liquid chalk, the layer you get is much thinner thus lasts no where near as long as regular chalk for me.

[@ianrasmussen5380]

@@TheKevinFanClub526 interesting, it's the opposite for me, assume I have an average amount of sweat. All the rubbing alcohol must suck on your hands though. Mad props to you.

[@tuner25]

@@TheKevinFanClub526 You should talk to your doctor or visit a pharmacy, there are product that help with too much sweat production, e.g. etiaxil.

[@corkforktork]

YES! NEW EPISODE! We missed a week without you Albert!

[@bookworm2350]

agreed, he puts out the best videos on climbing and motivation ever

[@stoneagealienz874]

“she’s really good at resting” me laying in my bed with chocolate on my stomach watching this video “haha same”

[@miroslavkowalski5783]

I remember particularly one competition when Margo didn't do well. In fact she didn't top any of final boulders. But she was the only one that get to the zone on one boulder problem that everyone else fail. She comes always with interesting beta and that makes her unique.

[@seantorrez196]

What an inspirational climber! My daughter and I are getting into this sport together and I'm glad we have someone like this to look up to :)

[@Rhinotteros]

I am only new to climbing and your videos always get me so excited and motivated to go climb. Keep up the fantastic work, I have learned so much from this series.

[@kieran7655]

The ability to really try hard has got to be one of the most underrated skills in climbing (sport in general actually) and it's inspiring to watch.

[@Spyziy]

Yes exactly in a team sports you just never see someone really focus down and have to TRY as hard as they can and fully put all there effort into it. I've played football, soccer, basketball, and baseball (my parents made me always be signed up for at least two until recently, I'm a freshman in highschool), and I never really enjoyed any of them. I always went with the flow and wether I had the ball or not you never fully focus down and TRY like you do in bouldering. It's so much fun when the sport is based on how much effort you put in and I absolutely love it. Watching it is so fun as well, you can tell on someones face when they're fully focused in and trying a move. It's so addicting ahhh I love it

[@weicc64]

Great episode! I had a chance to see Margo's climb once. Really love her climbing style :D

[@stuck_in_a_fishbowlagain652]

Ha! I was hoping to see her featured one day! Great video as always

[@nilaypatel2965]

Been waiting for this one, knew it was coming! Awesome as usual, professor.

[@stellaa101]

Oh yes I freaking love her rests on competitions!

[@jaouadharmouchi7465]

Just started the amazing journey of climbing, literally 2 weeks ago. And She is one of my favourite climbers, with Magnus and adam

[@DpAmoK]

I really love albert's last words : Keep crushing it!

[@tart377]

New subscriber here! Just binged every video in series.. I'm obsessed! Thanks for the amazing content. Also, Margo Hayes is amazing! I love seeing all these different approaches to climbing, such a cool and unique sport.

[@climbhangout]

I really miss this commentary trio from the Nationals where Margo is "hiding in her cave." I wish Neely Quinn would be invited back again (and accept). This year's trio of Pete Woods, Allison Vest and Cece Kopf was quite good though.

[@chrisfischer5380]

Hard to believe it’s already episode 17

[@Liletter]

Sweet, I just finished a climbing session.

[@pacificcoastpiper3949]

How did you do?

[@FartingUnicorn99]

Love a good beta break!

[@aminahrahman3045]

Awesome Albert. Thanks for the new beta break. Its good motivation for finishing assignments.

[@tobiassarnow495]

So well done - I like every episode and can't stop :)

[@LoganMarcosSchmidt]

The commentators during margo’s attempt are almost mocking her for resting as if it isn’t the raddest thing in the world

[@dropsnooze5274]

Nah, it's generously "mocking" and admiring

[@stoneagealienz874]

You have to remember they have to keep talking. And there are only so many ways to say “well she’s still resting guys” and they also can’t just turn the show into a potcast and talk about their day. I don’t know what bullshit i would come up with if thousands of people where watching and i had to come up with something interesting so say on the fly

[@LoganMarcosSchmidt]

@@stoneagealienz874 well it's their literal job, doesn't matter if you couldn't do it. Like i don't know how to fly a plane but that's not a good excuse for a pilot

[@harper6692]

only 31k subs, thats criminal, could easily see 1M

[@colinbreslin3946]

When you were talking about Margo Haynes resting on the Boulder stretching her forearms when the clock hit zero I literally looked up the vail bouldering championship video 2015 it’s like 3 hours and 50 minutes never seen it in my life and I scrolled right to the part you were talking about

[@emiki6]

Actually it's not the lactic acid. The body converts pyruvate to lactate, to make the system less acidic. ATP usage is the cause of H+ build up, that lowers the pH causing fatigue. Also lactate is a fuel for slow twitch fibers (and the heart, brain etc).

[@johannesbartusel290]

That is only partly true. Yes the Hydrogen-Ions are what makes your muscles hurt. And it is also true that the body produces lactate. But lactate and Hydrogen-Ions are exactly what Lactic Acid is. So yes the body produces lactic acid and this is what causes the burn.

[@emiki6]

​@@johannesbartusel290 Read this: chadwaterbury.com/lactic-acid-vs-lactate/ I have to mention too, that lactate to form lactic acid, it consumes a proton, thus makes the system less acidic. (lactic acid is a weak acid, so lactate is a relatively strong base). To go further, the presence of lactic acid and lactate puffers the system, slowing the proton build up. Here is the real source of excess protons: socratic.org/questions/how-does-atp-hydrolysis-release-energy

[@DaftFader]

Regardless, it's anaerobic exercise causing this cycle to kick off and by resting she's getting oxygen into her blood without using it faster than she can take it on. This will slow down the production of all of these chemicals and stop her arms/legs burning. Without an excess of one you don't have an excess of the other, and resting long enough lowers all of them. ;) Anaerobic exercise, although fueled, is not sustainable indefinitely, it's an emergency reaction the body starts in order to deal with low levels of oxygen in the blood whilst muscles are still calling for more fuel (oxygen) during prolonged physical exertion. You inevitably have to stop (or at least slow down) at some point or your muscles will just cramp up.

[@emiki6]

​@@DaftFader When that happens I just lose my grip. :D In addition to your comment, it's good to know, that to fully regenerate the creatine-phosphate system, you need to rest around 10 minutes (depending on your endurance), and by that you will regain your explosiveness and short term max strength. Resting for long time before the crux can give you an "edge", but it's very boring to watch :D

[@DaftFader]

@@emiki6 ye adenazine is fast to recoperate but even faster to be used also - something like ten seconds to a minute (it was a loong tine since i studied it at college, so not sure, bit i remeber it was atp that's the explosive fuel right? Not like tnt explosive, but like fast loaded movements lol) Also I only watch cos it margo lol, she can make even resting look intresting somehow).

[@isaacs8704]

I want more of these beta break videos so bad

[@XDCamisadoXD]

Great content as always!

[@jonkrause6714]

Great vid and other skill for me to learn. Wicked cool skill to take breaks on any climb. I never tried inverted/tilt chalking bcoz I fall too much. 😂 She is absolutely is so nice - got to meet her at Mesa Rim Mission Valley in San Diego when she was there with Alexander Megos. She was crushing the sport climb routes with ease. So strong. 💪

[@HajimeChan]

We took 5 mins to rest with her

[@gregglockhart9551]

Very inspiring!

[@TheWolfalpino]

ok, let's say once and for all, or I'll just say it for you. Climbing is a matter of mental end emotional status (let's call it mindset or "how you feel") , and free soloing is for sure different, no matter the grade. This is why it's important to know why you are doing something. I never climber at their levels, just a couple of 7a, but i know the feelings. What I'm saying is, that after observing others, i realized that it's not a matter of who you are or what grade you are doing (or what you are doing). It's the status that makes the difference. When you feel fine you find everything fluid and find all the spots and the grips. When you feel stressed or uncomfortable, that changes. So you need to retrieve that status, which is meditative, calm and focused state of consciousness, but it can require time, and that it's personal. I always said to the people that i climbed with, that climbing is not a competition. I really feel that the idea of putting timers and make competitions, it's really something "not really connected to real climbing" Because climbing is a personal experience (as well as all) and it basically helps (or not) building real confidence while climbing and climbing. What i'm trying to say is that climbing is not a competitive sport, it's a way to know who you and discover life. You can actually feel it while climbing, and you can definitely feel the other people flow. I'm It can make it worst then without. performed

[@climbingturkey]

4 minutes and 34 seconds, in case you were wondering ;)

[@brettschmidt5706]

Seeing "liked by Mariostan" on the Instagram post was incredible

[@tomprice4016]

The shear strength, courage, and beauty of this woman is nothing short of awesome.

[@StanleyKubick1]

shear strength and sheer strength aren't the same.

[@tomprice4016]

@@StanleyKubick1 Indeed!

[@Bodebodebode]

resting for 2 hours and not sending the boulder is a beta break? I guess I'm a beta breaker myself.

[@johnmorrell3187]

You know, I'm something of a beta breaker myself

[@toni_Menorca]

French grade translation would be great, thank you for the video Albert 👍

[@ShinSakuraNoMai]

Community based CC will. Be deleted soon or has been. I don't know how it will. Work but it will. All. Be Machine trans now.

[@dwillemscott]

@@ShinSakuraNoMai They were talking about climbing grade. A 5.15a in the Yosemite system is 9a+ french

[@PeterMettlerMartialArts]

Awesome video

[@xTobsecretx]

So sick that she sent Biografie!

[@i-am-mercurial]

Albert's in loooove

[@joji_okami]

i mean, who isn't with margo

[@MrCreepermax16]

Great videos!

[@brittany3891]

I don't remember what world cup it was, but it involved Adam Ondra and like 5 other climbers from Japan. None of the Japanese climbers could send the last problem because it involved a hand jam, which Ondra obviously did in one try. Why is it that the Japanese team isn't training hand jams??

[@AlbertOkay]

Meiringen! They actually recently all had a brief clinic on training basic hand jams. Prior to the competition they had never practiced it before, but I'm sure in the future they'll be ready!

[@andyhaochizhang]

Meiringen, he was against 4 Japanese climbers and 1 Korean climber.

[@leonardocastellanos5776]

Margo Hayes!

[@declaredjeans7555]

Margo is such a badass..

[@thiagohitz8657]

YEAHHHHH Keep it up👏👏👏

[@leoingson]

Neckbar at 3:57

[@robmckennie4203]

"she can find rests and creative solutions whenever she can"

[@bananabot151]

The amount of chalk she used lol

[@sagebias2251]

The pooch did an insane move on this event. You know the one. Make it. (It might be called an iron cross. Idk)

[@stilliving]

This guy’s script writing is solid.

[@chocolatemoose7761]

Dope.

[@sososeven107]

Margo 😆💕

[@fivetwoeighty7012]

Common misconception: lactic acid isn't a thing in the human body. And lactate can actually be beneficial in trained athletes.

[@adrien5814]

How can it be beneficial?

[@j.gonzalez2543]

Source?

[@planecrazy2]

I heard about it here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mamwoJWuZ5Vob6c

[@TheWolfalpino]

sometimes the support of the people helps but too much attention brakes the focus.

[@Porururidimu]

Difficult proved to be a difficult word

[@FunPlayLoveFPL]

bro casually told everyone he has a crush(ing) on her 9:12

[@mrwhatsmyname3x4]

Song at 5:33?

[@Ellier215]

6:23 how is she staying on? I don't understand.

[@yarpenzirgin1826]

Pump has got nothing to do with build up of lactic acid in muscle and everything to do with deficit of ions responsible for transmitting impulses from neurons to muscles.

[@kcegr]

Yarpen Zirgin finally!! !,!!!,!

[@meangene1980]

How does she chalk ever 2 seconds?! Lol, Magnus Midtbo, we have a challenger to the crown.

[@DaftFader]

Is Margo still climbing professionally? I've not seen much about her in the last two years, and she's one of my fav climbers (I'm hoping she's not injured or something!).

[@sydneyvincent297]

been thinking the same thing man. after la rambla and biographie, a little hype in the olympic run, she’s been kinda quiet :(

[@DaftFader]

@@sydneyvincent297 ye , i'm hoping she just doesn't like super fame and is letting the hype die down, and isn't actually hurt or something.

[@MPHshoots]

Does anyone know the song that was playing at the comp at 4:22?

[@mrwhatsmyname3x4]

Alone Cristoph

[@emperorsascharoni9577]

Why not just do a time limit on the overtime attempt? Make this timelimit less than normally needed to finish the boulder so that it only works for those who are already in their attempt and you cant abuse it by jumping on the boulder at the last second.

[@bookworm2350]

Jesus that girls something....

[@andyzhang7890]

I may or may not be simping...

[@my_negative_world]

Damn she was born in Boulder XD

[@DaftFader]

Yeah, she jokes that it was meant to be in one vid I've seen lol.

[@J0daa]

Albert you deserve way more attention for these videos, I watch every one and don't even climb. PLEASE use tags and stuff to improve your SEO (Search Engine Optimization, aka working with the YT algorithm), you put way too much effort into these incredible videos! I use TubeBuddy which is a free "Beta Break" for KZbin (instead of spending years learning all this stuff). Here's what I see: imgur.com/a/nZ2F0Ds Better SEO makes it easier for new people to binge your videos, which will expose more people to the fascinating art of competitive climbing!

[@dmm4133]

She is so sweet

[@enderlain385]

This is not a beta break but just getting a break.

[@chefmarcg]

ive never seen someone reach for the chalkbag as much as her? wtf she need chalk every second for?

[@chrisbmxbrandt9495]

I can’t believe how cute she is (´༎ຶٹ༎ຶ`)

[@smackymcproductions4443]

are they only allowed to rest as long as theyre chalking up? lol

[@longb1913]

y she using so mch chalk wtf

[@robocopter2534]

I think the overtime is fucking stupid :D

[@V8chump]

The commentators are always so negative towards the climbers…? Almost to the point of being passive aggressive. “Ahhh that hasn’t worked out for anyone else so…” “Resting like this hasn’t worked out for anyone yet, they always fall immediately after” Then it immediately gets smashed…. Happens in my gym all the time

[@HantixGaming]

Bouldering you arent supposed to rest, leave that to lead

[@Burnthesof]

If you need rest, rest lol.

[@Fred-oz3tw]

Actually these betabreaks are not very effective most of the time. And after long rests like this they usually just fall of the wall. I think it has something to do with losing this psych and motivation while resting so long. You have too much time to think there.

[@markkealy4417]

I think it might be the biased sample, the only people who take long rests are the people that know they're going to have a hard time finishing

[@Fred-oz3tw]

@@markkealy4417 y but i feel like this is the absolute wrong attitude

[@markkealy4417]

@@Fred-oz3tw how so? The long rests are generally only done by people that know they'd fall if they just tried to rush through it, so I'd say the fact that even some of them work is prove they're somewhat effective

[@hayeshaff8038]

Hayes ends in an s so the possessive would just be a ‘. IE: “Hayes’ rest.”

[@AlbertOkay]

Since it's a proper name I'm pretty sure both are correct.

[@hayeshaff8038]

Albert Ok ahh interesting. I only remember that because in like 4th grade I was the only one in my class with a name that ended in an s so I was the only example of not using the ‘s.

[@darkotp7108]

she was NOT the first woman who did 9a+, are you jocking

[@AlbertOkay]

Which woman climbed an official 9a+ first?

[@isaacinternet]

She cute af

[@harrietramos8691]

The lopsided may phytochemically pat because minibus physically pump toward a elderly donkey. silent, willing retailer

[@jasongastrock6686]

first

[@calmather]

eleventh

[@bananabot151]

ninety fifth

[@Bboi3294]

She’s cute 😻

[@aaronstone360]

Keith a simp for Margo

[@solsticeval]

I love this video series, but this particular video was hard for me to watch. The recurring stumbling over your words made it hard for me to listen. I hope you take this as constructive criticism - there is no hate here, all love.

[@AlbertOkay]

Sorry, I recorded and made this video after TSA broke my equipment and had to make do with what I had. I was reading off my phone and had no set up and had very little sleep. I don't think I stumbled to the point where it was unwatchable though.