Electric Turbo - First Blow

[@AlexLTDLX]

We did actually drag test this thing - we picked up almost 2 seconds and 15 mph and we threw in an epic burnout! Check it out: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4CvZISvmN-nabs

[@patriot101101]

Can you hook it up the a car tps sensor. And what is the xtra power thing in the video.

[@AlexLTDLX]

@@patriot101101 You could hook it up to a tps and have it trigger at a preset voltage (most TPS signals are 0-5 volts). Not sure what power thing you're talking about.

[@patriot101101]

@@AlexLTDLX that would be your power supply in the video.

[@AlexLTDLX]

@@patriot101101 If I understand you correctly, the power supply is just a bunch of RC car batteries in series. The meters are just monitoring current draw and voltage.

[@patriot101101]

@@AlexLTDLX Hey I am new to these rc esc 400 amps. I am trying to hook it up and I used a servo generator and put 5v to it to get it too work. From talking to you it seems there 3 wire is sensing wire need to go to the tps mine puts out little over 4.2 volts.

[@miggyfixx6418]

WELL DONE SIR! I've been trying to do this for over a year with various turbos, several modified power tool gearboxes, and a bunch of high power, off the shelf RC Car parts. We have made it work a few times, but our gearboxes, or motor/shaft connections always fail. Clearly it's best to start with a CSC, which already has a super robust multiplier gearbox attached lol. I came to that realization a while back, and the search for another tinkerer with a similar idea on KZbin, is what led me to your first video. I was the guy who suggested the indirect motor connection using a supercharger coupling device. Your HEX drive idea though, was a stroke of PURE GENIUS my friend!... Once again well done, and THANK YOU! I'm finally putting the turbo to bed... maybe lol

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thanks. I wasn't sure the hex drive would work, but the math said it would, and have room to spare; plus it was about the easiest thing I could do. Thanks again!

[@robbiyoung85]

got damn, how far you have come. this is amazing. can't wait to see the full end result. I got my popcorn ready

[@SeishukuS12]

And hey, if it doesn't work out... You get a fancy leaf blower out of it! 😁👍

[@markwebcraft]

"So, everything's pretty god damn hot" LMAO, instant subscribe, this is definitely my kinda content.

[@connorlearmonth665]

Very cool. Bench testing my set up with the ultra caps at this time as well. Plan is to measure the actual voltage drop and run two 48v banks in series with a regulated 48v output.

[@AlexLTDLX]

Very cool!

[@sicckarrimail6525]

I’m excited to see this as a purchasable product sometime in the future. I’ve always loved this idea, there’s not enough people making them. This is definitely the future of forced induction.

[@AlexLTDLX]

I agree with you - this is the future of forced induction.

[@MrPdiggity]

Excited to see you tackle that cooling issue.

[@dragan3290]

Every time I see this I am thinking : this bloke is going to blow his house down. Lol

[@AlexLTDLX]

Lol. Or burn it down...

[@utoby1101]

I had an epiphany the other day after starting a huge diesel truck with a small lithium battery pack. I was thinking why you can't use this lightweight monster power source to spin a turbo and then saw your generousness way ahead of the game. I have a 6th gen Camaro that has some room in the compartment where the cold air intake is sitting. I put an e85 conversion on the naturally asperated 6.2L and got 22hp gains. The car is roughly 400hp to the ground. I don't want to strain a 10K engine too hard and would love to put together your first build for this thing. The amount of material you have online is vast and the title is DIY. I would be forever grateful if you could lead me to a list of parts or if you have it somewhere to just make 50-100 hp additional. 2 seconds and 15 mph would make me smile.. haha

[@AlexLTDLX]

If you have specific questions go to our forum at www.electrifiedboost.com

[@golgothapro]

My Me0913 brushless which is rated at 72v @ 250 amps and drives a Paxton Novi 2000 at 1:3 with an external 2 1/2" belt drive makes only 8 psi dead-head., 5 psi with the engine running. (350 1st gen small block Chevy). Electric Supercharging can work; but it takes way more torque to build significant boost that way than most people realize. At the nominal 160 amps it settles to that's almost 12 KW. Trust me, you need a much bigger motor. I use six 50ah AGMs seried together and six 2A chargers to keep them charged.

[@AlexLTDLX]

I would suggest watching our first drag test results: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4CvZISvmN-nabs. Fwiw, dead-heading a blower just puts it in choke; I have a video that talks about that too. Do you have any videos of it running? I'd bet voltage under load drops a lot. AGM batteries have much higher internal resistance than lithium batts, limiting power output. We're around 650 hp, and I'm certain we can hit 700-750.

[@timothymccarthy419]

Real cool idea Mount the turbo to a plastic boat and use the turbo as a jet motor😮😮

[@supercharged6771]

A perfect turbo replacement, and belt drive replacement, we already have great alternators...some large batteries this things gonna cook. Wait for the phone to ring and a check to cash

[@AlexLTDLX]

Lol. Wait until you see this weekend's track results. I think this is the future of boost.

[@SkellerART]

I've been looking into electric turbos recently and so far the only ones that actually work are almost as expensive as a standard turbo. Is thus close to production and if so what's the price point we're looking at? Also the main reason I'm looking at electric turbo options is the fact the Turbo cars are supposedly to be slightly better for fuel mileage, you said you weren't planning on running it more than 10 seconds at full throttle but would it be possible to set it to a lower setting and have it running constantly?

[@AlexLTDLX]

I don't have any plans at this time to make a mass-market version - everyone has different requirements and a one-size fits all isn't a practical solution. If you're interested in building one of your own, I'd suggest joining our forum at www.electrifiedboost.com - myself and some of the other members there can answer your questions. I will say this: turbos don't make your car get better gas mileage. In fact, they'll make your gas mileage worse (especially since you'll be hitting the gas much more often). This is a common misconception. What turbos do allow for, and what I believe you're thinking of, is that they allow much smaller engines to develop similar power levels to much larger engines. Much larger engines (say, a 500 cubic inch big block) have much larger and heavier parts (crank, rods, block, etc) - so at a light cruise, they have to spin all those parts as well as provide the power to move the car. A tiny (say 120 cubic 4 cylinder) doesn't have these losses, but if it need to make power comparable to the big block, you cram a ton of boost down it's throat (say 30-45 psi) and viola - similar power to the big block without the weight and frictional/rotational losses. But then again, you could shove 30 psi through the big block, and you'll see God. That said, aside from small differences in losses, making power always involves burning more fuel. And more fuel = worse gas mileage. That's pretty much an absolute truth. In fact, when tuning, we calculate HP from fuel consumption based on Brake Specific Fuel Consumption. The lower the BSFC number, the more efficient the engine. An efficient engine might have a BSFC of .35-.40; but few turbo motors do better than .47-.55 BSFC because of pumping losses. When running boost, you pretty much always have to run richer and in many cases retard timing to keep from damaging the engine due to heat or detonation. Both of those make the engine less efficient. Running an electric turbo all the time isn't practical (when would you charge the packs?) but unnecessary if mileage is the goal. Finally, if mileage is your only goal, there are a number of things you can do - most of which are cheap or free. Run the thinnest oil you can (fewer loses pushing thin rather than thick oil - it's actually a measurable difference, both on a dyno and at a race track); run the oil a bit low (less windage = less HP loss); lean out the cruising fuel maps and advance the cruising timing. Run skinny tires and make sure they're inflated with as much pressure as allowed. Lighten up the car (and take junk out of the trunk); don't run the AC and don't cruise with your windows open. Work on the aerodynamics of the car - smooth hubcaps, belly pan, air dams, etc. Of course, some of these could shorten the engine's life or damage it from detonation, but if your smart about it you could get by and see a significant improvement. Finally, you could always drive drafting behind other cars. But I wouldn't - rear-ending someone is a way to ruin your day quick. Hope this helps.

[@reliquary1267]

Finally ... someone is using gearboxes to increase RPM. I think E-Turbos have a bright future. I'm just waiting for them to evolve. Have you reached out to companies such as Dyson, who have some of the most developed DC motors? Map your ESC to the TPS, solve the power density and heating issues and I think you'll be blazing trails

[@misterbulger]

I'm building a Briggs and stratton powered roots style blower haha. The whole assembly mounts ON the hood. For go-fast mode you have to pull start it. 🤣👩‍🏭The briggs itself will get some of the boost too making it a supercharged supercharger.

[@AlexLTDLX]

Lol. Keep in mind my Whipple pulled about 70hp from the crank. But your idea sounds much more entertaining in person.

[@user-pwfus]

Ya you need some serious lipo batteries for that thing but wicked idea and setup.

[@AlexLTDLX]

Like this? kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaTGmHqeoJiYoNU We've come a long way since those first tests...

[@FirstLast-tx3yj]

Brilliant!! I think it would be a good idea if you get yourself an e-scooter battery like a bird or lime. I would suggest a lime gen 3 battery 36V 15.6Ah 50 cells.

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thanks for the tip. I'm not seeing the need for any other batteries (except one more of the same three I have now) - we have plenty of current over time and voltage drop is manageable. I'm pretty sure an e-scooter battery would have issues with voltage drop under a 15,000 watt load - plus it's bigger and costs more. Remember, we can re-charge when driving around and the blower isn't running. In fact, I've already got the chargers. But I'll look into it.

[@joshherrman3201]

This is quite the conversation piece you have here. Have you tried out Qs8 or OSE8 connectors? They are 8mm bullet connectors and can take up to 6 gauge wire. Have you found a esc yet?

[@AlexLTDLX]

Yeah - we even took it to the dyno: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bmXahH-Hh95sqcU In fact, we're only some valve cover mods away from taking it on an even more high-power test: kzbin.info/www/bejne/oIDTd5htrtV_e9U Those connectors are nice, btw. thanks for the comment!

[@wompstopm123]

how much thrust could you make if you put that in a ducted fan. can you make that? i would but i dont have one .

[@AlexLTDLX]

You would need multiple stages and even crazier rpm - good question, I've thought about it myself.

[@mckirkus]

Ramblo, First Blowd

[@AlexLTDLX]

lol

[@nextday391]

Good job! Where can i find the blue potensiometer, the one you running your ESC with?

[@AlexLTDLX]

Ebay or Amazon. Search for, "servo tester."

[@monstercameron]

very excited

[@SuperPaulfa]

dear sir; you can measure the frequency of single phase and get the RPM, then multiply by the gears ratio, the put the rpm value into the compressor map (supplied with the supercharger) you will know the max flow/boost curve of the created device.

[@AlexLTDLX]

I've made a number of compressor map videos; and we know what this compressor map is. I just need to figure out how to translate the frequency to rpm. Working on that now; but if you know, please share it. Thanks!

[@SuperPaulfa]

@@AlexLTDLX put the clamp meter on one of the phases, frequency = RPM * No. of poles/2 check your motor specs for the poles no. Note : don't use oscilloscope, use clamp meter, you dont want to read the switching frequency ... i think the clamp meter will filter those out. cheers!

[@wesleydeer889]

Awesome. Awesome. Awesome. Been waiting months for this. I have a question for you. If you had to take a wild guess, What was your heat loss in watts? Out of the approximate 7000 Watts, would you say 1000 was going to heating up the various components, or more like 500. Also let me ask it like this, what do you feel was actually going to moving air". Would you say minus all losses, you were getting 5000 to moving air"

[@AlexLTDLX]

I'm not really sure. I've been playing with voltage drop calculators and efficiency calculators. A lot of this will also could be answered by just figuring out more accurate ways to measure rpm or even testing my actual motor's Kv. But I can say that given the losses in the cables (which can be reasonably calculated) and assuming an ESC efficiency, we can guess... but I don't have enough info to guess that accurately yet. I can say that the losses aren't really that great - the tankless water heater in my house draws 13kW and all that power goes into heating water. Here we saw and average of about 7 kW and no significant mass - and that mass in the grand scheme of things didn't get that hot. So I'd say we're probably looking somewhere between 5 - 20%. I'd like to get a better handle on it; but at the end of the day, impeller rpm is what matters.

[@sk8afuxa]

Already started mine just wanted to see how yours faired first lol

[@hydrocarbon82]

That's the cheapest way to learn how not to do something lol

[@AlexLTDLX]

@@hydrocarbon82 Truer words never spoken.

[@rimka11]

I subscribed some time ago when you promised to make a big electric supercharger. I think i will stay subbed, because i like talking hand channels like AVE or This Old Tony :)

[@AlexLTDLX]

Lol - I do too. Thanks!

[@dragan3290]

Hi can you please tell me what model the electric motor and ESC is? Btw you can buy watercoooled jacket that sleevesover the motor.

[@AlexLTDLX]

That was a TP Power 5860. I've switched to a TP Power 5870 (15 kW peak); now I'm looking at an LMT 30100 - 40 kW.

[@myrclife]

You should of read your directions on your lipos. You should NEVER take them straight out of the box and run them. (Which is what you did). You should always fully charge them FIRST the you can run them. Now they will develope a charge memory of only about 60% (because that's where they are shipped at) they will always discharge faster now and will more than likely develope unbalanced cells and probably some puffing cells also. I wish someone would have told you. 🤷 Oh well. Now you know. Same with a new cell phone.....ALWAYS charge it FULLY first before ever powering it up. If you go to the local cell phone shop they always offered to turn it on and program it for you just so you will have a crappy battery and you will have to buy a new phone in a shorter period of time (or at least a new battery) lol. Love the electric turbo vids man🤙 keep it up

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thanks for the kind words. If you haven't seen the other videos, this evolved into a pretty effective electric supercharger - here's a drag test of the unit: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4CvZISvmN-nabs The next evolution of this particular unit is shooting for 800+ flywheel hp. Lipos don't suffer from a memory effect. You're confusing them with NiCads. In fact, repeatedly charging Lipos to full capacity shortens their life span (as does completely discharging them). Balancing for Lipos is important, and these cells were well balanced (but actually proved to have a relatively high internal resistance).

[@northfloridafungi9336]

you may have already said oo posted it but what motor is that, specs and exactly, am I typing into google to get one of my own so I can play too

[@AlexLTDLX]

TP Power 5870. I started with a TP Power 5860. Which I might sell for few bucks off since it's almost new...

[@jakeslidez]

what c (discharge rate) are those lipos?

[@AlexLTDLX]

Those were 60c rated cells. But the C rating doesn't really tell you about voltage drop under load - an internal resistance measurement is more useful for that, but still won't necessarily give you the full picture. Other variables come into play - cabling, connectors, internal connections between the cells, even ambient and battery temperature. I'm discovering a lot of these C ratings aren't terribly accurate. FWIW, now I'm using LIshen LTO 18ah cells; and while there is some voltage drop (about 10 volts from a 62 volt pack), we've drawn 670 amps continuous from them for that voltage drop. There's really no contest between them and Lipos for sheer power output.

[@davidresar8256]

I noticed you did away with the internals. So the step up ratio is gone. That is a step back from my perspective.

[@AlexLTDLX]

Check out the first drag test of this thing and see if you still feel that way (I posted the same link in your other comment on the unboxing vid): kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4CvZISvmN-nabs

[@davidresar8256]

Yes, I saw that! Just want you to know I'm liking what you are doing. Trying to help! But a 20 hp motor isn't gonna get it. You realize if you get the right motor to power it that there will be no lag and you'll overcome all the things holding you back. You could even use tps voltage to operate the motor controller. It would truly be on demand power. If you had step up ratio you could use mechanical advantage then you'd only need an 8k rpm motor. But it still needs to be 50-70 hp motor. Good luck and keep it up! I hope I've helped!

[@AlexLTDLX]

Thanks. I have a 53 hp, 50,000 rpm motor that should be here in two days (and a 1,000 amp ESC to go with it). That's going to get interesting...

[@davidresar8256]

@@AlexLTDLX I believe when you have enough motor to push that si blade and overcome all the inertia you will finally be there. Also need enough power to get there too! If you look at the rpm on the compressor map, you really want to get at the highest flow for the housing and blade. I think without going back to look it's in the 60k rpm area. Good Luck! Can't wait to see it!

[@reliquary1267]

I could possibly assist with the micro-controller and PCB to map ESC to throttle sensor :)

[@rhynecars]

Very cool! Would be interested in a parts list, maybe you can sell the adapter plate?

[@AlexLTDLX]

The problem is the adapter plate isn't the only part - you also need a perfectly concentric, round and precisely sized & located hole in the case - it's not something you can do with a drill bit; it needs to be done with a boring bar or reamer. And then there are 3 6mm screw holes that need to be drilled and tapped in the case that have to be lined up with the plate. Consider this an experimental project. I'm already thinking about the next (much bigger - using a 97 hp brushless motor) electric blower. That one should get us well over 1,000 hp. But I might not put it in my car. It's more of a race piece. Even before that, I don't think we've come close to maxxing this one out yet. Things should speed up as my shoulder heals.

[@rhynecars]

@@AlexLTDLX Thanks for the detailed reply! I was thinking, there are a lot of us DIYers out here looking for an easier way to procharge our cars, and I think your way is pretty brilliant. I guess I was thinking if you were able fabricate the piece needed to attach the motor to the supercharger housing, then you could sell that, as the rest of the parts are "off the shelf" and could be assembled at home, aside from the mounting hardware, hoses, especially fuel mapping tune that would be vehicle specific.

[@geeder9086]

I have a 2017 Mazda 3 with a 184HP (stock) 2.5L -- and your videos say that your setup is too much for anything under 200HP. Maybe I could make it work -- but it would have to be tuned for something that's usually inactive -- not practical for an everyday driver. In looking at RC components I came across something that caught my eye: it's an EDF -- which is similar to the gimmick devices -- but these can use serious amperage & voltage with brushless motors. Something that caught my eye as an experiment to maybe prove the concept is one of the mid-grade performance units and they "claim" it is capable of 88A max current at 25.2v, max power 2000 watts. They recommend a min 6000mah 6S 35C battery. I could only find 50c. They "claim" that it produces 3220gm max thrust -- which is just under 8 pounds. Do you know how this might translate (if at all) to boost pressure -- or is a volute needed to do that? I'm sure the CFM would greatly exceed the 350 my car uses -- but if thrust cannot equate to any appreciable boost -- I'm afraid it would just be an expensive gimmick. I don't know if this is encompassed in your rather large area of knowledge. The Torque Amp is appealing -- but the $2500 price tag makes me want to see if I can do something similar at the DIY level. Or should I just trade my car in for the factory turbo model? Thanks for any input you may have. From Amazon: "90mm EDF 12 Blades Ducted Fan with 1450KV RC Brushless Motor with 120A ESC 3-6S Electric Speed Controller for RC Jet Airplane"

[@AlexLTDLX]

An EDF could make a little power, but they're not designed to make boost. I've been wanting to try it though just to see what's possible.

[@geeder9086]

​@@AlexLTDLX Thanks for the reply. And thanks for validating my question. I think it might make an interesting experiment on a small displacement engine.

[@kicrc1893]

Any thoughts on back pressure at full go when on the engine? I'm sure after 3000rpm engine speed not a problem.

[@AlexLTDLX]

I don't know - anywhere from 3-6 psi, most likely.

[@zomie1]

They make Boat Rated RC ESC with built in water jackets. Perhaps if you blow that one up? The car ones come with fans built in.

[@AlexLTDLX]

Yeah, I saw those... hindsight and all that. I honestly didn't expect it to get as hot as it did. The bigger car ones with fans might be ok as is. This one might be ok with just a larger heatsink and a fan. It all depends it I can remove the heatsink without destroying it.

[@zomie1]

@@AlexLTDLX Oh yeah like if the darn thing blows up :) Are you running an innercooler or checking the air temp out of this? If you are running an air/water you might be able to tie in there?

[@RabeaHussain]

thanx for the update , i am into this stuff too, since 2002 actually , but my lack of electrical knowledge stooped me , my plane is to use 2 small lead acid around 20ah connected in serial for 24v , my problem is i don't know how to charge them . i want them to be charged when the etrubo is not on and when i turn the eturbo off charging starts and so on , i don't know what charger and where to connect it to? car battery or alternator , can you make a video about the charging process ,, plz plz

[@AlexLTDLX]

I will get to that. I've got two chargers already and have ordered two more. There's a reason why I went with 4s batteries and not 6s... all will be revealed as soon as possible.

[@jiovanysinapan7761]

Hello, where i can find it ? And how much ?

[@bk38-spain27]

Many people want turbo electric motors because in our countries a turbo system cannot be homologated due to pollution. And electric turbos can be perfect, are there kits to buy now? 9psi is enough.

[@AlexLTDLX]

That's a good point and one I haven't even thought of. There's a torqamp, but it;'s only 5kW and limited to about 200 hp. People seem to be getting caught up on boost numbers. A turbo that makes 9 psi on a 600 cubic inch big block might make 40 psi on a 4 cylinder honda motor (or more). Then there's the surge and choke regions that come into play, as well as pressure ratio - the more boost needed to reach a particular hp level, the more drive power for the turbo is required. It's actually better to think of turbos and blowers in terms of hp potential instead of boost prerssure.

[@fernandohood5542]

How do you attach the motor to the supercharger?

[@VetalK]

Do you think it is reasonably easy to couple electric motor with cold part of a turbocharger?

[@AlexLTDLX]

It's possible but since the center section is typically made of cast iron and you'd have to re-do some sort of bearing setup (unless it's really small like the first thing I built), then I actually think a blower is a better option.

[@VetalK]

@@AlexLTDLX I'm thinking about using only cold side, no center, and somehow connect compressor wheel to the motor. 50k rpm should be almost enough...

[@VetalK]

I guess I might still need some bearing...

[@gregswimm6535]

hay just 1 thought when you drop voltage amps increase

[@mikeyz8775]

I think about putting something like this on a turbo charged car, can this eliminate turbo lag? With out tunning?

[@AlexLTDLX]

Oh, I'm sure it would. But it's not cheap, easy or particularly safe. In my last test (video coming soon), I hit 22,000 watts peak. That's more power than anything in your house uses. It's probably more than your house uses in total. It's dangerous as hell, to be honest. I know that Audi and BMW are releasing electric assisted turbos next year, but not on this scale.

[@ttzfer]

Looks like a successful test, it'll be interesting to see how it fits into the car and how you go about operating it, also look forward to seeing how you cool the ESC etc.

[@evanmcconnell3389]

Where can i get one?

[@AlexLTDLX]

You'll have to make it yourself, unless you're looking for a low-power unit - in which case I'd suggest a torque amp. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!

[@triptravels1999]

New to this completely what would yyou add kr subtract to cool down the temps

[@AlexLTDLX]

Not really sure I understand your question?

[@marcoantoniosolano1126]

PSI?

[@AlexLTDLX]

That would depend on the engine. But so far we've seen peaks of 6 psi on the 14kW unit on a 500hp 6.0L V8; with the bigger unit we've only had a short runtime due to massive traction issues, but we've seen 5.4 psi and climbing - should end up seeing peaks of about 8 psi. Here's the 14kW drag test: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4CvZISvmN-nabs Here's the first test of the bigger unit: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bZSmhJWlnMxgd6s

[@jayburrough4308]

How much have you got invested so far .oh they already have working one's already

[@AlexLTDLX]

The only working ones I know of are Torqamp - which is a third as powerful as this thing. Do you know of any others? And as for how much I've got invested... please don't make me add it up. Let me put it this way: I could have built a cheap turbo setup easily by now. And it's going to be a lot more than the small fortune I've already put into it. Subscribe, keep watching, and if you can, donate a couple of bucks to my patreon to help me pay for this stuff. By the time we're done I'm pretty sure we'll be into 5 figures $$ wise and hopefully 4 figures hp wise. Patreon: www.patreon.com/AlexLTDLX

[@jayburrough4308]

Xr.mtx is a cheaper version one that cleetus used on his channel not the torqamp I think he said 400 for it now I know that you are trying to get a very powerful one but you could use some of the parts from others no need in reinventing the wheel...oh there is also another one I can't remember the name but if you look up teen finds first camaro made on that same youtube channel they have a new company on with a electric supercharger but they are useing in for low end torque and it also has a turbo on it so they are taking out the lag I'll go get the name of the youtube and I leave it for you . I really like what you are doing ether way

[@jayburrough4308]

@@AlexLTDLX autoline network is the name of the youtube channel I was talking about

[@patriot101101]

Where did you get the adapter for the ex motor to turbor

[@AlexLTDLX]

I made it. Watch the other videos in the electric turbo playlist.

[@angelobovara317]

Impeller needs to spin 30000rpm to make boost in a 5L V8. Max impeller rpm is about 50g. Yer not getting 30000.

[@AlexLTDLX]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZqblJlnht-HY7M

[@williamzoom]

It's a shame it's not leaf season! )

[@stripecatflippangitnamecha8721]

Can this thing run constant without burning the motor

[@AlexLTDLX]

For how long? It draws a huge amount of power. I haven't been able to get batteries last long enough to get the motor hot enough to be concerning. But keep in mind, we're on the order of seconds (less than a minute). To run at a reasonable clip for let's say 10 minutes (I do think the motor would get too hot without cooling in that time; now it has a water cooling jacket), you'd need 100 lbs worth of batteries - at least.

[@45llamas]

Its running very inefficiently, the gearing is way to high, slowing the motor down too much and making it consume excessive power, thats why the voltage drop so much

[@AlexLTDLX]

What gearing?

[@45llamas]

@@AlexLTDLX That compressor is from a procharger right? it has a gearbox in the back of the turbo, if you have it runing direct drive the kv of the motor may be too high for the impeller size

[@AlexLTDLX]

It's a vortech and the gearing has been removed. Watch the other videos.

[@masrurlim7896]

Do u sell this bro?

[@AlexLTDLX]

Not yet. Still making things more powerful and user friendly.

[@ltorealestate]

Hello Alex..Love your project. Which brushless motor are you using (if I may ask)?

[@AlexLTDLX]

Ask and you shall receive: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jWHOeXdvjMpnsLs

[@ltorealestate]

@@AlexLTDLX You're awesome sir...We are looking to do something similar. The purpose is to use the electric turbo to spool our twin turbos earlier, so instead of max boost at 4500rpm, we are shooting for 3100-3300 rpm. Two firms (as you know) make kits but they are over $3k for all the needed components and 4-5 month waiting period as they are back logged.

[@AlexLTDLX]

@@ltorealestate there's torqamp and who's the other? Btw, we dyno'd the car Tues; video coming soon. It was an eye opener...

[@ltorealestate]

@@AlexLTDLX Dan over at Duryea...duryeatechnologies.com/duryea-electric-supercharger/

[@ltorealestate]

@@AlexLTDLX I've spoken to the Torqamp guys and they're cool, but 5 months or so behind on orders and the kit, bypass intake pipe and controller comes to over $2700.

[@dragan3290]

A dewalt 54 volt.???

[@AlexLTDLX]

Are you referring to the batteries? Those wouldn't be able to provide enough current. If you haven't seen it, these are the packs I'm using now: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gaTGmHqeoJiYoNU I use two of them. I tried stick welding with one pack - even that was too much power: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ip3Io5aeqamdrqM

[@steveakendo8579]

how much psi

[@AlexLTDLX]

So far a peak of 6 dropping to about 4.2 - enough to pick up 15 mph in the quarter (!): kzbin.info/www/bejne/d4CvZISvmN-nabs That's about 650 hp; I'm sure 750 is possible with this setup and the new batteries.

[@alihussein9313]

Dude buy the Torque Amp

[@AlexLTDLX]

Why? The Torqamp is only good for about 200 horsepower. What you see here has been dyno tested to 600. And I'm pretty sure I could push it to well over 700. This thing is more powerful than 3 Torqamps combined.

[@camro177]

Unneed a higher amp batrery array.

[@has4896]

Why straight axle drive,,⁉️try belt or step up gear drive, you don't need high rpm electric motor,,😎💥💥💥 will be compact

[@AlexLTDLX]

Direct drive is simpler and possible. The next setup will likely be belt driven. Though a high-rpm belt or gear drive has it's own challenges.

[@davidusa7733]

There is no such thing as an "electric turbo". What you are showing is an electric supercharger. A turbocharger is exhaust driven.

[@AlexLTDLX]

You are technically correct: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nqDYYZ-LbbyAndE But what you probably don't realize is that 3 times as many people search for "electric turbo" over "electric supercharger."

[@curvs4me]

How high can you go on the voltage? You definitely want to max that out to get the amps down. IE if you had 400vdc the cables wouldn't even get warm. It's only the amps making the heat.

[@AlexLTDLX]

It's all dependent on available stuff vs expense. I think 16s is enough to support about 700 hp at a reasonable (sub 400 amps) current rating. Thanks for subbing!