Alienware R4 17 GTX 1070 Disassemble, Thermal Repaste with Grizzly Liquid Metal, TEMPERATURE FIX

[@Helmut13379]

After a watching this video and a research. I repaste my 17 R4 with LM. And i overclocked to stable 4.50ghz and stable 75-85c.

[@uFixTek]

awesome enjoy you serviced and OC laptop my friend, thank you for the feedback. cheers🍻

[@panagiotiskerasidis406]

i repaste mine 17 r4 with kryonaut only and replace pads with no temperature drop, (50-89 C) The trick to put thermal paste at the pads save me , thank you now i have normal temps!! (35-70 C)

[@DominickDecocko]

Kryonaut has curing time and that helped you i believe. Otherwise it doesnt make any sense. VRMs and generally pad areas should not add extra heat to the CPU chip.

[@Andy0466]

Just did that From thermal throttling over 100 to never surpassing 76 even when going top notch (With .75 undervolt) This tutorial was the #1 thing that saved me and it is much appreciated.

[@WaseemAli-ty7re]

Did you do it by yourself? if so, how difficult was it and what should be wary about to not break? Need to do it, im throttling way too much on mine

[@Andy0466]

@@WaseemAli-ty7re did it myself. Just give yourself time. Follow each step and dont rush. Make sure to apply proper amount and proper tape around CPU and GPU.

[@flashtu]

nice Video but i found out you just can remove the screws on the caseplate of the Fans housing so no need to dissasamble the Mainboard which made repaste much easier for me:) but i like the video from a fixed View.

[@uFixTek]

yes there are few ways of doing this :)

[@Near2Future]

If that is true you sir just saved me £125 :)

[@1manmafia37]

is there a video that shows this method ?

[@uFixTek]

just unscrew the heat sink and rip the tape that holds the fan to the heat sink, but, safest and cleanest way is this video.

[@1manmafia37]

okay thank you, ill follow your guide

[@DAKSHPOKAR98]

I was very excited to do this, finally after removing all the screws I was left with thr final 7 heatsink screws. Out of these 7 I could remove only 3, 4 are stripped🤦🏻‍♂️😓. Probably will continue without repaste.

[@uFixTek]

just make a straight cut over the screws and use a flat head screw driver to remove sometimes they come very hard. but try dont give up :)

[@DAKSHPOKAR98]

@@uFixTek yup will try that😌👍🏻

[@uFixTek]

good luck, and thank you for the support

[@Berzrk-Z]

Subscribed! You rock man, thanks so much for making this detailed tutorial as well as the information provided in the video description. I'm going to attempt this on my 17 R5 with the i9 and 1080oc at next month. I thermal throttle when I play any game, so something's gotta be done.

[@uFixTek]

anytime when you need help ask here even i have a whatsapp line for people that need extra help repasting.

[@Berzrk-Z]

Awesome, thanks! I have no doubt I'll likely need help at some point.

[@kanadskyvictor6512]

@@uFixTek hey sorry for bugging you. I live in another country and trying to find a proper tape analog here one you gave link to a guy looks totaly normal electrical tape, i tried to find more information about it but it does not say anywhere that it can handle over 100 temps like (heat-resistant Kapton adhesive tape). reason im trying to find one you got is that because its very flexible and covers all cmd chips (i hope i named it correctly srry for my eng) while heat-resistant Kapton adhesive tape does not do this job well with non flat chips what specss should i search when buying tape? may i take a picture of what i got would you be able to say if it works or not? totally desperate in this situation, got this machine before used and figured why, ive already undervolted it already got nice cooling aluminium pad but it totally useless- if i play low 1080 it wont overheat and shutdown but if i do higher it will shut down even tho laptop easy shows over 120 fps in 4k its just heat issue with cpu as far as i understand much thanks in advance hello from Russia

[@uFixTek]

@@kanadskyvictor6512 hi my friend, to be honest you can use any electric tape, because the BGA chip the pcb portion will never go anywhere over 55c, the only part of the BGA chip that goes over the 55c is the crystal dye , so you will have no problem whats so every by using a electrical tape, i used the super 33 tape because its a bit better than regular tape but you will have no issue,

[@GriffithMK]

Great video! I was looking for some information for the R4 versions inner hardware. Thanks for stripping it down. 5 stars.

[@troubleshoot972]

Ty for this tutorial. It brought my cpu down 20. Now my cpu at max load is at 85c which in the past it was at 100 and throttling everything. I play modern warfare with no issues now.

[@uFixTek]

im glad that it helped you :) thanks for the positive feedback

[@TylerStraub]

Hey bro, thank you for making this video. I have been collecting all the parts for the last few weeks and this Sunday I am ready to do the procedure. I will let you know how it goes after I finish. Wish me luck!

[@TylerStraub]

I have made a mistake somewhere. I thought I followed all of our instructions exactly but my thermals are now totally out of control. I'm not sure where to begin troubleshooting :(

[@uFixTek]

thank you for the feedback,

[@uFixTek]

di you use LM? and can you send some pictures? did you use copper shim?

[@kuldeeprane1469]

@@TylerStraub bro what happened then

[@TylerStraub]

@@kuldeeprane1469 man I revisited this project like a few months ago and found that all the thermals were actually perfectly fine. the thing that was overheating was the big speaker built into the side of the laptop. I had to manually disable the power to the speaker and then everything was fine. I must have shorted something idk. Laptop working great again otherwise now.

[@seatleon7614]

Lo he usado y va bien ahora mantiene el turbo 4.3

[@uFixTek]

excelente trabajo, disfrutalo ahora 🍻

[@Nomadsan]

I spent a half day with your video but the results are perfect also with the latest Alienware 17 R5 ;)... Thanks a lot for your video. And i know, i could've used Dell's manual/instructions but this video is way more "user friendly" ;)

[@uFixTek]

thank you for your awesome comment.

[@ithsburtondwight]

hi, is the process the same with the Alienware 17 R5? I have one, and I can't wait to repaste

[@Nomadsan]

Justin 99% the same ;) the only difference you can except is the position of the screw of the heatsink near the CPU because they improved it a lil bit... but this won"t change anything for you anyway.... you can trust and follow this tutorial... imho it's one of the best around. Also, don't forget four important things : - Attach yourself with an antistatic device (you can easily found some with good ratings on Amazon) as we're talking about a 2k+ €/$ laptop (mine cost 3,2k+)... - Use a good screwdriver kit like the iFixit box... you'll need PH1 Philipps Screwdriver for about 95% of the screws on this laptop - Place the screws you've taken off in a logical and ordered way... so that you can easily reverse mount it ;). - Take your time, make sure you'll have 4 or 5 hours for yourself and make sure you won't get disturbed... some elements are really hard to put back on (i broke my wifi antennas on the wifi card because i rushed myself when i plugged those...i was lucky enough to have another as a spare part...) Good luck ;)... take your time !! (And sorry for my english.. i'm french ;)

[@ithsburtondwight]

Thank you! Sorry about your wifi antenna

[@uFixTek]

yes its 99% the same i also did a video with a gtx 1060

[@nerohussien7210]

damn man you are so smart i have same laptop there is no one here can do this job to help me save more temp

[@MyJapaneseLife]

After doing the repaste, this alienware imo has a design flaw which makes it difficult to clean the dusts especially when in liquid metal paste which requires more-than-average efforts to do it right. We need to REMOVE the whole heatsink to be able to access the fans and the heatsink's leaves, unlike my old MSI GT where you can remove fan individually and then do the cleaning with the heatsink untought.

[@MyJapaneseLife]

So it's a good idea to use some dust filter like this one I just ordered on Amazon: DustEND G2. It's expensive though but I believe it's worth it because you don't have to worry about those boring stuffs like removing heatsink and repaste and bla bla bla...

[@1208Silverize]

Im thinking this is your first time to do it with AW 17 r4. You happen to apply liquid metal on southbridge chipset which is not suppose to be. The liquid metal might spill off in your board. I hope your unit is still alive up until now.

[@uFixTek]

no its not my 1st and it does not spill, i paint with LM, i dont put lots of it, and cooling south bridge it helps a lot, if you have lots of file transferring around or you have external hdd connected, as the south/north bridge Functionality is the Pata /sata controller and what ever you got on your mini pci-e goes to the chip then to cpu, also it does your Power management tasks therefore cooling the chip eve 5-10c it helps ahot in many cases, for longer lasting laptop mobo, teh south /north chip includes support for Ethernet, RAID, USB, audio codec, and FireWire. but there are many ways to cool down the south chip you dont have to add LM i did because i work with LM alot. but you can go with thermal paste or adhesive silicon.

[@cesardzm]

Awesome video!!!

[@qwerty6789x]

doing this now having faith on this video. wish me luck

[@uFixTek]

good luck my friend if you got any trouble just msg me up here. take your time

[@salazarserje]

Viejo, mil y mil gracias por el video. Voy a intentar esto el domingo. Un saludo!

[@uFixTek]

denada compa, cuando quieras aquí estamos . is quieres que lo haga el servicio con mucho gusto, estamos en queretaro. saludos

[@salazarserje]

@@uFixTek Me queda complicado mandartelo desde Colombia, pero cuando visite México te mando unas chelas!

[@adrewfis925]

Damon, I really appreciated your thorough repaste video. Very informative! Also went through the comments and noticed you ended up going with the shims. I have some questions now. 1.) When you put liquid metal on CPU/GPU 1st do you cover the entire chipset or just enough to cover the area of the copper shim? And the same question for above the shim on the heat sink. 2.) If I go with .8mm shims what size pads should I get for each component since i-unlocks photo will no longer be relevant. 3.) Which paste do you recommend to attach the new pads? 4.) Is the PCH the chip toward the top of the motherboard if looking at it from the videos view? 5.) I saw Artic Silver 5 mentioned in the comments but not in your updated description. Where did you use it? 6.) Where can you get good thicker thermal pads quickly? Thanks again for doing the great video.

[@uFixTek]

Hi, I’m glad that you ask the right questions, #1. When adding liquid metal on the die of the chip you must make sure the entire die (crystal) if rubbed with liquid metal. When applying LM (liquid metal), you will notice that at the end of applying there is this spot with bump with excess LM , make sure this excess is in the center of the die, and the rest of the die is kind of “painted with LM”. #1.2 when you done “painting the die of the chip” and leaving a bit of bump (not drop) of LM in the center of die. To apply LM to the side of the Shim that will be doing contact with dies I just rub LM and don’t leave any BUMPS because you already have the bump of LM on the die. Just make sure you paint a bit more area than the size of the die on the shim. #1.3 when applying LM on the heatsink do the same thing paint the heatsink side with LM and leave a bump in the middle, then paint almost all the Shim side. #1.4 Don’t go crazy with the “bump” the bump in the middle is just have to look that it has more LM. #1.5 I have other videos where I put LQ on macbook pros I think the camera quality is better and can see the bumps, than this video of being my 1st video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/h4mUhHqOebafitU #2. If you going to use .8mm shims and you are not going to overclock your ride, then I would not worry for the any pads even you can remove the pad and everything will be fine, because the Heatsink for the other components will come in effect ONLY when you increase the cpu/gpu voltage “over clocking”. But if you are not planning to do so and don’t want to spend money don’t do it. #2.1 if you are going to over clock I recommend you to take the i-unlocks info pads size and add .5mm only no more. #2.2 if you are going to over clock make sure you get the BEST thermal pads for the components, because the heat temp for the gpu and cpu will be indicating in the system but not the components as the components are the important part of going bad at over clocking. #2.3 I DONOT recommend over clock unless you have enough money to get another one and you just messing up with your lap, because any over clocking or in any laptop PC or electronics are done by passing more voltage tot eh components and to the BGA chips (gpu/cpu), we know for fact that the BGA and cpu can handle the over voltage to be overclocked IF they are cooled. But what they don’t say and as an person studies all the craps regarding the components in the electronics I can say that for fact knowing that the components that they use are not meant to absorb or pass extra voltage, and they start heating up and to help it so it will last a bit longer with “pads and heatsinks” it’s something that all the companies what you do to, they want and they love it when ppl over clock , because it will degrade the life spam of the components in your stuff, and that it good for them, that’s why they motivate and sell all these nice and extra heatsinks for laptops/pc , people don’t know by over clocking no matter what or how they cool the cpu or gpu even the components they are bringing the life spam of the laptop to its half. Won’t go to more detail. #3 I always put artic silver 5 on both side of the pads to help transferring heat better but if you can buy “artic silver pads the there is no need for it, and this only goes for those poor ppl like me. #4. The PCH chip use the artic adhesive to hold it in place nothing else and let it cure overnight. #4.1 the PCH chip it’s towards the front of the laptop on the bottom side, now this is hard to explain in eng location but don’t go crazy on that just use adhesive thermal paste artic ver. #5/6 I use artic thermal paste on top of the components where the pads do contact and that’s all, and in my update I only used the artic adhesive on the PCH chip the placed the shim and let it set face up overnight and that’s all. I hope this help you out if you have any questions let me know and I would appreciate your help on subscribing and recommending….

[@adrewfis925]

uFixTek thank you so much for the quick and detailed reply. I have subscribed and plan to tell my good friend about this channel. I believe he has a MacBook and likes tinkering with electrical things. I have a couple more questions in response. 1.) I have the new Alienware 17 R4 laptop and am wondering if the 15mm X 15mm copper shims are the right size to cover the GPU, CPU, and PCH or if I need to go bigger. 2.) If I go with 6mm thick shims would I need to increase thermal pad thickness over and above i-unlock's photo or can leave as is since they will still make contact with the heat sink? I don't plan to overclock ever but would like them touching the heat sink for peace of mind. 2a.) What is the cooling difference between 6mm and 8mm copper shims? Are we talking a couple degrees or 10-20 C? 3.) In your opinion, what are the best thermal pads to buy and where can I get them? It seems like the ones I can find all ship from China and would like to tackle this project during my Thanksgiving break which is next Thurs. Just want to open up this baby one time. Oh yeah, my CPU temps are at 99 C during my game Sniper Elite 4 and frame rates at 20-40 most of the time with a GTX 1080 and 32GB of memory. It seems my 5 year old PC with EVGA 690 is not that far behind in performance. :/ 4.) Just so I'm crystal clear (no pun intended), am I supposed to coat the entire shiny part of the gpu and cpu? I really dont know what a die or crystal is and just assume the whole shiny area is the area we need to cover just like your video (even when using copper shims). Again thanks for your big help. Really appreciate it!

[@MyJapaneseLife]

The best thermal pad imo is the one in i-unlocks post (except 17W/m.K is now available). And darn it is expensive. The other which (from the spec) has same quality is Alphacool's. It is expensive too but a bit less. @uFixTek: I am still waiting for my delivery. The whole stuffs cost me 150 bucks and may increase :(

[@uFixTek]

HangryBear ya in thermal pads yes but thats if you want to over clock, no need for those pads if you not gona over clock

[@MyJapaneseLife]

Regarding your question 1: No, 15x15mm seems cover all the CPU just fine, but NOT for the GPU. You need a shim bigger than that to fully cover it. This is what I've found from an image of a reddit thread (you can search "My Alienware 17 R4 experience (temps and methods used)" on reddit) So @uFixTek: from your expertise what do you think will happen (better/worse heat transfer) if the shim doesn't cover all the chip's surface? Thanks

[@astolenhotpocket13]

I'll be doing this soon, need a few more thermal pads and a tool to spread the liquid metal and paste. Wait there's a swab in the liquid metal bag? Lit. Do just need pads.

[@uFixTek]

ya it includes the swab.

[@astolenhotpocket13]

@@uFixTek Hi so I managed to get it done and the temperatures are greatly improved. But i am finding that the system stutters quiet a bit now when games are running on it. Have you ran into this before? It's like frame drops but the system is meant to handle the know me of apps ran.

[@victor5121983]

We're can I get the keyboard for this laptop seem to can't find it anywhere.

[@uFixTek]

Thank you for the feedback! if you wish to support the channel you can LIKE or SUB or both :P regarding your question: YOU CAN FIND THEM EASY ON EBAY, make sure its US keys : ebay.to/3gZJvTc

[@Itsmevinu369]

Sir, which method would be the best for applying with regular paste, other than the liquid metal? I'm using Gelid GC Extreme bdw..

[@uFixTek]

Thanks ✌ for the feedback! if you wish to support the channel you can LIKE or SUB or both :P regarding your question: this chips are direct crystal dye, the best for them are spreading same and normal CPU application, or a line in the middle. spreading gives better results always. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZi7h6pmgpeWnpI

[@Itsmevinu369]

@@uFixTek Thanks for the quick reply. Sir one more question. Is the liquid metal safe, if we carry around the laptop often?

[@uFixTek]

@@Itsmevinu369 i don’t recommend you to place LM if you going to move the laptop a lot.

[@cruisinguy6024]

Fantastic step-by-step! One question - how are you adapting from the m.2 sata to a sata cable? I've searched and searched for an adapter and can't find a way to connect a SATA cable to that m.2 slot. Also, how did you split the power off from the 2.5" bay? I've been wanting to make that modification myself but haven't found a cable that does that. Thanks!

[@uFixTek]

im gona make a video to show you how to go from m.2 to sata they sell and adapter for that but you need to take the power from other side , they take 5v 1amp and you can take that from board or other sata power. amzn.to/2zYzyzS i let you know when the video is up. :)

[@cruisinguy6024]

@@uFixTekhanks, I was actually looking at that item last night but thought it might be too tall to clear (I have a 17R5 on order, so haven't measured myself how much clearance that slot has). I'll add it to my cart and give it a shot once my laptop arrives. I'm still not clear how you bridged the power - if you made a video about that I'm sure it would help a lot of people....who doesn't want to add more drives to their laptop?!?!

[@uFixTek]

sure bud i let you know :)

[@miekun7281]

Hi! I have Alienware 15 R3 with I7-7700hq + GTX 1070.... what copper shim specs is suitable if im gonna use it with grizzly kryonaut paste? Love your channel its really inspiring

[@uFixTek]

Thank you for the feedback! if you wish to support the channel you can LIKE or SUB or both :P regarding your question: i would recommend to use a 20mm x 20mm and .3 or .4mm copper shim to cover the diy of the CPU and GPU. amzn.to/3ElMa5X make sure yo place paste on all sides. if you have any question or request in the future feel free to ask me.

[@miekun7281]

@@uFixTek thanks for your reply and recommendation appreciate it.... and already subbed & liked

[@uFixTek]

@@miekun7281 much appreciate the support, if you have any question or request in the future feel free to ask me.

[@dandan6683]

also is there a temperature difference on putting paste before thermal pad?

[@uFixTek]

no there was no difference on after putting the pad, and there is no way to measure temps for those components, the temperature only can e measured at DIOD components. the pads are only helpful for those who do OC. if you not going to OC . dont change them.

[@amaya897]

Not true. Repadding is need to rebalance the heatsink if it doesnt make proper contact with cpu/gpu, which is often the case on current AW Cassini Gen. Nothing to do with OC.

[@AhmadAlAjeel]

Is liquid metal safe on the alienware m15? Is the cpu and gpu heatsink copper or aluminum or nickel? I heard liquid metal causes corrosion and damage

[@uFixTek]

Ahmad Al-Ajeel its totally fine we have done many LM on M15. And by adding the copper shim you will see a big difference in temp drop. Once you pug the LM you never ever need to take or separate the heatsink , only clean te fans every few months.

[@yesplusca]

you don't need to take off all parts to re-paste ......

[@uFixTek]

i know you don't but this video is called "Disassemble Alienware R4" is not just repaste!! but thanks for the comment

[@1208Silverize]

If you look closely you will not be able to pull out the heatsink without disconnecting fan from board.

[@MarcoMasi-masiorama]

The black tape you apply on the capacitors surrounding the cpu is simple electrical tape?

[@uFixTek]

Marco Masi no its a much better the link is in the description. Its more resistance to heat

[@guapisimooo]

Hola amigo gracias por tu video, hacer esto no corroe el cpu despues de un tiempo de uso? Tengo la misma laptop y quisiera saber si mi laptop no se va a joder .

[@uFixTek]

juniora aburto hola amigito, le comento que nada pasara atu cpu y gpu despues, yo ha echo esos mantenimiento por muchos años incluso a mis propios laptops y este alienware es mi personal. No tengas miedo de hacer el cambio a LM , vale la pena. Saludos

[@VirgateCrawdad]

impressive work

[@uFixTek]

VirgateCrawdad thx

[@juancaballero5284]

Hola amigo estoy por aplicar LM a mi Alienware 15 r3 , las temperaturas oscilan entre 85-95 durante juegos , quisiera reducirlo sin necesidad de tener el cooler a tope por lo que optaré por este remedio, en comentarios leí algo sobre cambiar los ventiladores , sabes más de eso? En donde puedo encontrar un video que indique cuáles y cómo hacerlo? también referente a la cinta negra que usas, la pasta térmica de LM, cuáles son los modelos? Te agradezco tu respuesta estaré al pendiente .

[@uFixTek]

Ok, mira en primer lugar no pongas LM mejor ponte el equivalente al LM y sin sus peligros, la diferencias son 2-3grados y beneficios es mas tranquilo el versión de pasta de LM pero asegurarte que compres el original no pirata: amzn.to/3x2uWW3 cinta es eso en caso que quieras aun: amzn.to/3NdAWSu igual si usas LM y estas moviendo tu laptop de lugar a lugares después de 6meses el LM se pone mas frágil , cualquier movimiento brusco puede quebrar la junta y te va dar resultados horrible. usa la pasta amigo.

[@kimokimchi]

Also i have noticed, do we have to leave the electrical tape on around the graphics chip and cpu when putting it back together after pasting?

[@Dragonblaster1]

I must have got a good one. OK, I only got the FHD version, but I'm using Stage 2 OC, and I've just finished two hours on Shadow of the Tomb Raider maxed out, and, although the fans kicked off, the CPU temp only went up to 60C, and the GPU 55C.

[@uFixTek]

Alastair Archibald wowoo dont touch that repaste nor move the heatsink , just time to time clean the fan. Also if you lift the back end of laptop during gamin it will drop few 5c . Thanks for the comment

[@Berzrk-Z]

Damn Alastair, I wish I was getting anywhere near that. I have a 17 R5, i9 processor, GTX 1080, 16gb ram and I thermal throttle on ANY game. f'N sucks

[@uFixTek]

REPASTE AND YOU SEE THE MAGIC

[@Berzrk-Z]

I'm absolutely going to attempt this; thanks so much for the amazing tutorial!

[@uFixTek]

im glad you like it :)

[@rascal1923]

For the way better results part have you got a video for that as in this one u don’t add the copper shims

[@uFixTek]

Cal i did make a video adding copper shim, kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5vJl5VonK6miZI.?sub_confirmation=1

[@xRevoEmaGx]

Using metal to scrape the thermal paste off copper heatsink....conductive electrical tape on board...then using pads on top of thermal paste????

[@uFixTek]

The tools use to remove the thermal paste its flat spatula made to not harm the metal copper if you know how to use it.... the electrical 33+ its not conductive at all, if you wish you can use kapton tape or gaffers tape... placing a paste over pads do fill the pads pours and do get better results (based on many tests, the pads have 9 W/mK and the paste is 12.9 W/mK there fore you not making worse you helping.... but again i encourage you to do your own testing and do what makes you happy.... i just been doing this work for over 20years no biggie...

[@Hashim1]

why I shouldn't use LM on the PCH? and what the copper shim is for?

[@uFixTek]

Thanks ✌ for the feedback! if you wish to support the channel you can LIKE or SUB or both :P Regarding your question: use the copper shim on PCH but use this "thermal adhesive glue", dont use LM, amzn.to/2YCsfgg the copper shim will help to increase pressure to the chip on GPU and CPU and it will dramatically help with temps.

[@Hashim1]

@@uFixTek I have the GTX 1070 variant, should I follow this guide or the newer one with the GTX 1060?

[@uFixTek]

@@Hashim1 its the same as this guide.

[@Hashim1]

@@uFixTek how thick the copper shim should be?

[@uFixTek]

​@@Hashim1 25mm x 25mm .3mm or .4mm

[@keyboardwarrior1239]

Will this tutorial work with alienware m17 as I just bought it and it reaches 100 as soon as I start the game and never come back even when its throttling

[@Andy0466]

That was the problem I had and did this fixed and now my CPU temps stay 75-80

[@vehementdragun844]

I havent gotten an alienware laptop just yet, but id like to know how I can clean out the fans. Would it be required I clean out any dust from time to time? If so, how long would it take until i actually need to? And how hard would it take to get into the fans when opening the laptop?

[@uFixTek]

VehementDragun hi, its really super easy to clean up the fans and heatsink without opening many screws, and i always recommend cleaning up every year and half. Or when you see your temps start going up.

[@adelonic1]

First of all amazing video nice details how to do it but I have a question can I use just Arctic Silver thermal paste instead of liquid metal?

[@uFixTek]

yes you can but i really would recommend to use a "artic silver 5 " and a copper shim . thank you for the thumbs up i'm trying to help as much as i can to the community and maybe i get a little back with your support. :)

[@adelonic1]

@@uFixTek thanks allot but where do I place the Cooper Shim? And where can I get it thanks in advance

[@uFixTek]

PCMasterRace99 9 let me get home in about 20min i send you instructions and links

[@uFixTek]

@@adelonic1 check my other video on how to put a copper shim on a gpu : kzbin.info/www/bejne/gqiYqaOdnZmSh68 and use the link in the description to get the copper shim: amzn.to/2H4UCJd

[@pcwong97]

is there any update on the liquid metal affecting the copper heat sink?

[@uFixTek]

The LM will not damage the copper only it will change the copper color and it will bond with copper, we have had a LM on laptops for years and after removing it and cleaning the copper the heat-sink was still in perfect and only color change on heat-sink. few thinks to know. the heat-sink is cheap and its even worth replacing the thermal paste with LM. once you put a LM you will never ever need the need to remove the heat-sink to replace the LM, only thing is that you will need to keep the fans and the condenser clean and there is no need to remove the heat-sink to do the those. and trust me lets even pretend that the LM will starts damaging the Copper *it wont. by the time the copper gets damaged it will be 5-7years past and by then you may have sold or replaced your laptop. or the price for the heatsink will drop dramatically and you can simply buy a new heatsink, look at it as an cheap insurance, and all the above IF, but based on our 5years experience on LM never had an issue. a bit of logic can do much more help. good luck

[@pcwong97]

@@uFixTek thanks man!

[@lonmichaels7812]

I can't get the liquid metal shipped to me. It is considered a haz material. Will Arctic MX-4 be okay? Also you did not seem to replace but re-used the existing thermal pads. Is it better to replace them?

[@uFixTek]

ok if you can't get LM, then get : #1: grizzly kyronaught : amzn.to/3pI4uvx #2: Artic mx4 : amzn.to/356pjJk and no no need at all to replace the pads leave them the way they are. I would appreciate your support to the channel by a sub :P

[@googleinc6033]

I bought the same paste and went to a computer shop because i was afraid to do it by myself, the guy then told me that I got lucky because the computer almlst broke with that paste and used another one he says was as good, now my cpu temp in games is about 94c and gpu 78c is that good?

[@uFixTek]

omg lol Jesus what the hell did he put on that CPU and GPU, or better question is that if he put anything lol, your cpu should not go no where over 70c at max load, and your gpu should be under 72c at max load im talking extreme load. you are going to desoder that cpu if you keep playing on it, i recommend you to do it your self and if any help you need during the repaste ask via whatsapp, but that tech boy of your did fu++up something lol

[@googleinc6033]

Damn it I knew it... but the temps were okay the first day then they got bad after 1 week, he also wasted my Paste on the process... I'm ordering new stuff now, but I cant find fujipoly on my amazon in my country, the only 11w i found was from a brand called Alphacool but there are no reviews so I dont know if its good, or if I use Arctic 6w is that ok? Also im confused about the Copper shim I didnt see any other video replacing them, and which size am I supposed to get?

[@Sur_GalaChad2189]

K 00 no that's dreadful... Either he put too much paste or there is bad contact with the heat sink you should be at 38-45c idle and your gaming temps should be in the low 80s some games will push to 85-88 and flirt with 91 but you should not be higher than 85ish if you're getting 94c something is 100% wrong

[@nahakuu]

what is size of the copper shim? and thickness please?

[@uFixTek]

NaHaku i did answer your question , use 1mm thickness and use. 1.5cm c1.5cm size . As long as the coppers shim covers up the cristal on the cpu and gpu.

[@mysteryknigh]

thanks for the tutorial its amazing but when i managed to close up the laptop the upper right side light is not working and idk what cable did i miss ??

[@uFixTek]

check the time on the pictures and you dont need to reopen everything just check this connections: imgur.com/a/gMx16VB

[@OSODELANOXXE]

I like to see what his temps are now running prime 95 benchmarks.

[@uFixTek]

OSODELANOXXE i will post a benchmark test if you like in a day or on monday, but you know running games at max pubg its around 60c gpu

[@harisy1916]

@@uFixTek Hey Man can you like post those benchmark? I've got a alienware r4 with 1070, 7700HQ, and I play battlefield 3 on the lowest setting on it but it heats up to the point that it thermal throttles sometimes- on average the temps remain 50C-60C in the winter on idle but when gaming it just really gets too hot! I get the feeling my vents aren't clean cause even at full speed fan I can barely feel the air coming out from the back vents, I don't know how to clean em they're like almost a part of the fan! do you have an tips? Also any chance you can guide someone via skype or something with liquid metal application? I want to do it as I bought this laptop for the sole reason of gaming hardcore and am already bummed out that it thermal throttles.

[@uFixTek]

@@harisy1916 i will do a benchmark test when i get home in few hours, but Jesus idl 60C thats when im gaming at max setting. just telling you from now that you have a big issue with your heat sink contacts you must open that laptop and repaste and add a copper shim. else no matter what you do it will get hot.

[@uFixTek]

imgur.com/a/vL1hhAx i ran 20min at max everything and i get no more than 62c aand cpu 64c . for you to have 60c on idle itys terrible.

[@googleinc6033]

Rainbow six also not going over 60c for cpu and 50c gpu

[@kamehamehawawe]

How do you deal with the very tight small screws holding the heating on the cpu and gpu? I just cant unscrew them without the wearing the screws down

[@uFixTek]

if the screw is really hard, and you managed to damage the screw , then the only good way to remove it ; is to make a straight cut on the screw head and use a flat screw driver, i will make a video showing how to in the next few days. thank you for the support for the channel.

[@kamehamehawawe]

@@uFixTek thank you very much man!

[@uFixTek]

anytime my friend :)

[@abdullaheiloush7469]

thank u for this tutorial video it very helpful .... but is it the tape u used to cover the capacitors around the CPU and GPU is Thermal tape or it is normal one?

[@uFixTek]

Abdullah Eiloush hi my friend, thank you for the comments and yes the tape its a thermal tape. If you need the model or name i cant let you know

[@abdullaheiloush7469]

yes please if u could tell me what is the model number i will be thankful to you :D

[@uFixTek]

Abdullah Eiloush “scotch super 33+” www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0147GAA8O/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523372955&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=scotch+super+33%2B&psc=1

[@matiasmontoya8573]

i recently change my 2016 alineware 17r4 thermal paste but in about 1 month i rech temps on the gpu of 90 degrees. i don know what to do

[@uFixTek]

matias montoya i already responded on you help me comment. Let me know if you need anything else

[@Dragonblaster1]

matias montoya Did you make sure there was a really thin paste layer? If the paste is applied too thickly, it isn't as good.

[@matiasmontoya8573]

Thank u for the help but i put i little drop on top of the gpu and the cpu . i did very carefully because i am still lesrning how to do all this but i put a thin layer of thermal paste on the gpu and cpu. I read on others page that the heatpipe of the cpu and the gpu are together for that reason when the cpu get high temperatures the gpu also increase his temperature without beeing use. And i dont know what to do

[@matiasmontoya8573]

@@Dragonblaster1 sorry for my bas english

[@Dragonblaster1]

​@@matiasmontoya8573 No worries, Matias.

[@ducnguyenminh6165]

What is the thickness of these thermal pads used on the laptop? Thank you!!!

[@uFixTek]

the heat sink changes every Q1 or Q2 , so i suggest use .3mm thermal pads and in some parts just stack them. i suggest watch my live video i did a thermal pad replacement. 1:03:39 kzbin.info/www/bejne/p17RfmVpaN2DnKc , and the beginning of this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kH-waWmrg9Kqebc

[@Sabidox-]

Great video bro, i just bought mine do i need to re paste it?, i read that Dell have rectified this problem with the recent R4's starting Jan 2017? I saw that your video is in April 2017 did you buy your unit this year?

[@uFixTek]

doesn't matter when you got it, i would re paste with liquid metal anyways it will drop ur temp 20-30 and fan noise will be wey down. i got mine on Apr. i have a laptop repair shop. i recommend u re paste it.

[@massihdawar5425]

Mate, could you tell me if you got an i7 6700 or 7700hq?

[@uFixTek]

Massih Dawar i have the 6700 but its the same heatsink and same screws. The temperature decreases same way.

[@DarkVoidDan]

What thickness of the paste would you need to put on as I'm going to order some off ebay but at the moment I have arctic silver 5 I was going to put on my 15 r4, because when I was playing games today it seemed to be way too hot and the fans were going crazy was only a top down game too. What I'm really asking will my arctic silver be ok on the cpu and gpu. thanks Dan.

[@uFixTek]

i would recommend you to get this paste: amzn.to/2ZjeJfI or get this: amzn.to/2LErpWr or the last would be artic mx 4 amzn.to/2zRe62c and all you need a the size of a drop of water on top of the cpu and GPU, and make sure you sit the heatsink flat straight on top, and cross screw them. good luck

[@yamirgonzalez7501]

Why did you put a copper sheet on top of the phc chip? Is it necessary? I didnt have copper so i just put a thermal pad in there with a bit of paste.

[@uFixTek]

Yamir Gonzalez you don’t really need too, i just did because j had extra copper, the regular temps are 30c so no need.

[@kyriacosgeorgiou3148]

Very nice video my friend! I have a question though. This is the first time i am willing to do a re-paste. But i have also seen that liquid metal is not the best option. What do you suggest? The normal compound paste, or liquid metal? How does it perform in this computer so far? I have the same that is why i am asking. Thank you in advance!

[@uFixTek]

Kyriacos Georgiou i tell you something go with LM and after that never ever reopen your heat sink, just clean up your fan and heatsink every 12months. Without removing the heatsink. The LM its like a soldering the diy to copper. So if you remove it in the future you will need to sand it with sanding grade 3000 . I been doing LM since they came out. All i can say its worth it every single time. And you do not need to repaste ever again, unlike other pastes. All my personal laptops are LM

[@kyriacosgeorgiou3148]

Thank you very much! I will go with LM. I don't really have any experience, so will it be very hard? Also how does it perform in this computer?

[@uFixTek]

IT DOES WORK LIKE A CHARM AND IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTION WILE YOU DOING IT SEND ME WHATSAPP , ITS REALLY EASY AND FUN, FOLLOW STEM BY STEP. MAKE SURE YOU TOUCH A METAL GROUND WIRE OR A METAL TABLE BEFORE TOUCHING THE SSD HARD DRIVE

[@RhymesALittle]

Hermano, me puede decir porfavor como debo aplicar el thermal paste? ya que tiene diferente consistencia que LM

[@uFixTek]

si gusta mandarme un email con tu numero y te apoyo via whatsapp: [e-mail]

[@DhalonTech]

What are the black things around the copper parts of the cpu and gpu heatsink?

[@uFixTek]

Dario A. Its an isolation tape it’s useless you can remove it, there is no need for it and leaving it or removing it doesn’t make any difference.

[@DhalonTech]

@@uFixTek Ok thanks, but what about the artic silver 5? I can use another thermal paste or that's a specific one to use for that kind of pad/chips? Because i have the Grizzly Kryonaut too P.S. Maybe because it is, differently from Kryonaut, just a particular adhesive paste?

[@riadbenkabba8441]

Alienware do really suck only 3 heatsinks for both ...

[@uFixTek]

yes thats why they have a fan noise and heat problem.

[@__mad_sailor__4311]

Ohhh it’s 5 years ago video. So, and how the life of Alienware?:)))

[@uFixTek]

im sorry but your facts are very wrong my friend, we do work with LM all the time and we do repaste them after 3-4 years, Zero dead laptop or deformation of the heatsink. the heatsink can be cleaned and polished to perfect state and repaste with LM. there is no such a thing as especial heatsink for LM. over 17years of service and zero issues with any of my clients, ranging from alientware to nintendo and to GPUs. BTW the laptop is doing perfect and sending you his best regards :P thank you for your comments.

[@taufikmastar1995]

Please do a thermal paste replacement for msi gt75

[@uFixTek]

i will do one as soon as possible :P

[@MyJapaneseLife]

The most comprehensive and slow-enough-to-follow tutorial I've found. Like! But can you suggest other material rather than thermal pad, just to keep the copper shim in place? I kinda feel waste when buying a whole pad just for one/two very small pieces and just work as a spring. I feel waste enough already buying 15 pieces of copper shim to just use one :'(

[@uFixTek]

Hi, okay i did a change my pads few days later: this is what i really would recommend you to do(as i did): for the PCH chip: #1. don't use liquid metal, get yourself a articsilver adhesive paste #2. apply articsilver adhesive on the PCH chip buy it on amazon here is a link to one: goo.gl/98JTGG #3. the place the copper shim on top and let it cure / dry over night #4. done it wont fall and no need to put anything on top for better results and less fan noise on idle follow this steps: #1. apply liquid metal on the cpu/gpu #2. apply liquid metal on the copper shim just about the size of the gpu/cpu die *cristal where you put the liquid metal on the cpu or gpu #3. place that copper shim the side that u put the liquid metal one on cpu and other on gpu #4. apply liquid metal on top of the copper shim, and apply liquid metal to the heat sink #5. DONE place the heat sink and put the screws and you should see a huge difference, i was shocked how much difference it made just by adding the copper shim on gpu and cpu and applying liquid metal on both side of the copper shims. Good luck, anything else let me know. please subscribe as it helps me out. Thank you, -Damon

[@MyJapaneseLife]

Hi, thanks for your response. I have some other questions: 1) What thickness should the copper shim be (in case of layering it between the hs and the cpu/gpu chip)? 2) Wont it lift the heat sink up and make other heat-contacts (those small chips) less effective? 3) In my thinking it doesn't make sense adding 1 layer of copper between. Because the heat from the chip will have to travel through more layers (1 more liquid metal and 1 more copper shim) before it meets the heat sink. Could you please explain? Thank you very much

[@uFixTek]

sure, you are right and at the same time wrong in some aspect of the physics, i b repair electronics for life at component lvl. and what i'm about to tell you its based on facts test and retest. #1. i would recommend to use any thickness from 0.4mm> 0.8mm #2. yes adding the copper will ease the pressure of pads on the outer components, but it will keep in contact with them (more explain in #7) #3. yes the heat has to go through more layers, but the more layers its better in few ways, #1. absorbs the heat more, based on tests that has been done in my lab. #4. fact to pass heat from a component to a heat sink, one needs two things, 1. good thermal compound to remove the air, second and the most important part is pressure contact from heat sink to the component (not flash or a "good contact", in physics term and friction you need pressure to bound two objects. #4. you would say: but then i screw it and it pulls the heat sink to chip. #5. yes, but if you pay attention to the screws @25.20sec they are right at the end of the flat rod, that is supposed to be HARD FLEX metal, that will be used to pull the heat sink tot eh component!! BUT that stupid ends are made with some low hard flexible metal that has no power to pull hard the heat sink to the board. buy filling the center(die) you creating extra pressure on component, this case BGA chips. #6. why would affect the fans!, it affects the fan for the same reason when the heat goes up on the chip activates the fan RPM, but because of the poor pressure, the heat does not transfer over fast and the boards activates more voltage to the fan and the fan has to spin faster for the heat that is not in the heat sink. so when you have a good pressure on the heat sink, the heat will transfer to heat sink fast and on the low rpm the heat sink cools down and so will the chip. #7. regards to the other compounds that come in effect because of rise!, if you are not going to do any over clocking you should not i would say again NOT worry at all for those extra components, as the little contact or no contact they will be fine and last for ever. if you are going to over clock is because you will be passing extra voltage from them and you will need to put an extra pads on them. but i would say trust me don't waist money for extra pads for them...as they doing just fine with low pressure contact from pads. its all physics, I have done it on many many many electronics and test, and if you don't believe, and i don't expect you to, you can do your own test and will see the temp drop difference. and fans will be acting way less noisy on normal use. i do side robotics build and physics projects. i hope you some how understand and dont let ppl tell you otherwise. those extra components dont need pading if you are not over clocking!!! even e.g in some PC graphic cards some gtx 950 only have heat sink on gpu not even on vrams! ps. i like the way you think, you think outside the box,i hope this gets you on track my friend.

[@uFixTek]

sorry about my English i been and am in mexico and i speak spanish all day long :(

[@MyJapaneseLife]

Hi uFixTek, I am really appreciate your fast and nice response. I am not native English too so I don't care as long as I can understand you :D I am convinced and will do as you wrote. Thanks again for your good instructions.

[@Itsmevinu369]

Sir, my display is not turning on after reassembling my 17 R4. Last time I managed to make it work great after repasting, following your video.(Thnx for that). But this time I had to replace my problematic CPU fan and I had to dismantle the motherboard for doing the same. I had gone about 6 times reassembling it and I've no idea about the cause of the problem. I even replaced the CMOS after 2 attempts. No change Please help! I'm really messed up.

[@uFixTek]

remove both rams, remove the battery and bios battery and charger , then press and hold the power Button for 60sec, then only place one ram and then connect the charger only then power on and wait 5-15sec to get screen then power off then place the 2nd ram and power on and wait 5-15sec.

[@chapametal08]

Hola, una consulta, conseguí una AW17 R4 y levanta mucha temperatura cuando juego (80°), quería cambiarle la pasta térmica pero no tengo Thermal Grizzly, tengo una pasta Deepcool Z5 que no es de metal líquido. A lo que voy es, es obligatorio ponerle cinta adhesiva a los costados del GPU y CPU como en 37:40 ? Gracias de antemano

[@uFixTek]

hola no si estas usando pasta no para nada, no pongas cinta. saludos

[@jinchang9292]

What does it mean by ‘place copper shim?’

[@ch1bob]

What is that other chip that is not the gpu or cpu? The heatsynk doesnt cover that chip

[@uFixTek]

Thank you for the feedback and your support to the channel by SUB :P regarding your question: That chip its called PCH chip or north bridge chip and in some model they have two south bridge and north bridge , but now its two in one and its a PCH

[@itsnvnv]

Hi, I repasted my Alienware 17 R4's CPU and GPU thermal paste and after I have checked everything (Handled with care) I boot it up and it is showing "Checking media presence" then proceeds to "No boot device found" I check the BIOS and my stock Nvme SSD is not showing up/detected. Can anyone please help me? I am desperate. I have tried setting it to AHCI (RAID was default) and still not able to detect. I have also tried disabling "Secure boot" if it can detect SSD. But still not showing. I can see my HDD drive though. I've also tried reseating the SSD on the 2nd slot (it was on the 3rd slot). Checked all ribbons, pins and everything (everything in good condition and not show of chipping or broken pins). SSD has no broken pins-- also the slot shows no broken pins. Could it be the BIOS? I'm on BIOS 1.2.3? I have the Skylake version 6820HK PLEASE HELP!! Or Do you think the SSD is dead/has failed?

[@uFixTek]

Lightsout91 hi my friend, if you want i can help you out.

[@israelruiz954]

Did u solve your problem? D:

[@googleinc6033]

@@israelruiz954 hate those post without the solution

[@enemarian166]

Hello uFixTek, is ok if i use COOLERMASTER MasterGel Maker instead of liquid metal on gpu/cpu/pads ? is the only thing i can find locally and i need to change it quickly, i get 103 celsius cpu temp in vr :|. Also i have an NVME SSD that reached 85 celsius degrees while intense gaming in vr, any ideea if i can do something to it to run lower? can i apply pasta on it?

[@uFixTek]

yes you can, but if you dont bring your temps under 65c under load you are in big trouble! i suggest get it off amazon. you should get max 65c on gpu 68on cpu. and us a copper shim.

[@aguaron]

Can you tell your temperatures before-after the repaste? I may do it to mine too.

[@uFixTek]

i have done a new update to my laptop, on top of the cpu and gpu i have placed a copper plate and it has reduced -20c before: under load> CPU 80 - 102C, GPU 70-89c normal load> 60c-70c , GPU 50c-60c after: under load> CPU 45 - 55C, GPU 45-55c normal load> 35c-40c , GPU 30c-45c

[@kimokimchi]

Can you use thermal grizzly conductonaut on all of the other chips as well? Or only arctic silver?

[@Andy0466]

Do not use conductonaut anywhere else but CPU and GPU

[@joelalvares8351]

Great vid and work..... I have a question, my Alienware 17R4 cores 0/2 are like 8 to 12 deg C higher than cores 1/3, not always but enough to concern had done a repaste using kryonaut, which did help overall with the thermals but cores 0/2 are kind of a bother. So will adding a copper shim and LM combination help with making uniform core temps. I ask this as you know for the cpu they have given only 3 screws on the heatsink which is causing the problems. Another question isn't adding more surfaces to transfer the heat from the cpu to the main hear sink decrease the efficiency of heat transfer. Would love to know your thoughts on this.....

[@uFixTek]

its normal that come cores work in a higher temps, its because not all programs or windows uses all the core or distributes the load, some and most only use two cores and that's the reason, i have 16core cpu and its always unbalanced temps mostly. depending the programs that are in use. adding copper shim will help lower over all temps but it wont have the same temps on all cores as i explained above. the reason for adding the copper shim is to generate more pressure on the heat sink to the BGA and as 1st law of physics we know that in order to transfer cold or hot its by pressure on both materials, for the same reason by adding the copper shim you will defiantly get lower temps. BUT NOTE: if your copper shim has a slightest curve you will get the worst temps , to make sure that your copper shim is perfectly flat place the copper on the mirror surface and check for unbalances corners, (i say mirror because window or glass are mostly are not perfect). and no as long as there is a copper pipe attached to the main block of copper no matter how think (not excessive up to 3cm thinness is fine) the results will be super fine, we have ran many tests and based on tests we have see the results. i appreciate for your feedback and your support to the channel :)

[@joelalvares8351]

@@uFixTek thanks for the detailed and elaborate reply.....that cleared all my doubts....wil try this method if I get the time and will post here the results....thanks again and subbed..... 🙏👍

[@joelalvares8351]

@@uFixTek just one more question, I have the 6700hq which is not overclockable....would you suggest LM or kryonaut or something else for this particular laptop.... And if using LM what are your thoughts on clear nail polish instead of tape or u suggest both for insulating the chip contacts......

[@uFixTek]

THANK YOU FOR THE SUPPORT!, AND please dont use the coating or nail polish as they will crack over time because of the heating and constant cooling of the bgA, I WOULD HIGHLY recommend you to go with kryonaut : amzn.to/3mmh5D0 as it has the same result as LM just 1-3c less effect, but even if you have a over clockable cpu you should not over clock it, there are many chain reasons why not to, 1st of alll the companies spend millions of millions to promote the overclock communities, as its beneficial for the companies because it will decrees the life span of the cpu down to half, and the chain effect goes like this: if you over clock cpu you pushing more voltage to the cpu and the voltage regulators of the motherboard will over heat more, and you will have component issue at the motherboard end after sometimes, also the heat will generate more and it will result in more fan RPM and that will result in more dust getting into heat-sink and that will result in maintenance often. and not mentioning the fan noise. there for the OC for pc or laptop is a bad idea for consumers and excellent thing for us the repair shops as we get more clients :P unless you are made of money and you want to over clock because you can buy one every year or two, and if that is the case!, just go buy a better cpu with higher clock speed. :/ i hope i have explained my self from my perspective end as component repair end.

[@joelalvares8351]

@@uFixTekyes completely understand, thanks again for the detailed explanation....really appreciate it.... 🙏🙏👍

[@BillyBufter]

I'm going to repaste with liquid metal, but I wanted to know is the higher w /mk the better for themal pads? its suggested you need: For the 17R4 Kaby Lake 7820HK 1080: 3x - 1.0mm (100x15) 3x - 0.5mm (100x15) ????

[@uFixTek]

Yes my friend. i would recommend to put a copper shim on top of GPU and CPU , i did that and i got way better temp.

[@BillyBufter]

Damon M.G thanks boss

[@TheAceReviews]

Did this lower fan noise? Is gaming out loud possible without the fans being a nuisance?

[@uFixTek]

Stephan Niznik the fan noise now its balanced, that means before the fan would turn up to mas under regula use and would go up and down. But now it only goes up if the cpu start heating up. And if you want you can ser the max RPM to 60% , that way it wont go make toomuch noise, but it will affect your temps abit 10degre higher.

[@israelruiz954]

Hi sir! I am planing doing this, i have questions D: if i put cooper shims on gpu and cpu, can i use liquid metal like you did in the video and then put the shim on top of that? And, i really need to take off the whole motherboard to put new paate or LM? Also what about estatica on the motherboard? Thanks for the video man and sorry for bad english xD

[@uFixTek]

DON'T WORRY ABOUT YOUR ENG :), I HAVE MADE A NEW VIDEO ABOUT LM ON ALIENWARE WITH COPPER SHIM ON BOTH CHECK THE VIDEO AROUND 23MIN, AND YES THE BEST IS TO REMOVE YOUR BOARD, ITS SAFER. AND REGARDING YOUR STATIC CHARGE, JUST BEFORE WORKING TOUCH A METAL TABLE AND THATS ALL, NO NEED TO WORRY , JUST DONT GO AROUND RUBBING YOUR HANDS ON UR HAIR OR CLOTHS. IF YOU NEED ANY DIRECT HELP SEND ME A WHATSAPP, IM LOCATED IN MEXICO, IF YOU SPEAK SPANISH IM OK WITH IT. kzbin.info/www/bejne/i5vJl5VonK6miZI

[@israelruiz954]

uFixTek thaaaaanks sir! No sabia que hablabas español hehe acabo de ver tu otro video, y ya vi como colocar todo. Sé que ya tienes años de experiencia haciendo esto, pero me da miedo poner tanto metal liquido D: realmente es ncesario pintar las 2 superficies que se van a tocar o basta con una? Y no importa que la pieza de cobre sea mucho más grande que el cpu y gpu? Es solo para aclararlo y sentirme tranquilo seguir tu video al pie de la letra :( lo mandaría contigo, pero yo vivo en Perú y el envío y todo me saldría muy caro creo :/ Otra cosa que me da miedo son esos cables planos que tienden a doblarse muy fácilmente, una vez desarmé mi mouse para limpiarlo y por curiosidad y tenía uno de esos cables y lo doblé de la presión que tuve que poner para conectarlo de donde lo había sacado :/ me dejarías tranquilo si esos cables no requieren presión u.u

[@uFixTek]

mira, tu calmate, y si afuerza tienes que pintar ambos lados de cobre shim, igual notengas miedo con cables felexores, los puedes dobrar 180grados hasta 8vecez y nada pasara, ten fe y hazlo con calma y cualquiere cosa me puedes mandar whatsapp , contesto rapido y para que te sientas seguro me puedes mandar fotos de como estas haciendo y te ayudo, igual ntp mientras que el copper shim no sea mas de 1mm y no mas grande que cpu o gpu, pero asegurate que tus copper shims estan bien parejos (flat). ponlas sobre algun cristal y si esta parejo usalo. usa unpoco menos LM pero si trata de pintar abos lados es muy importante. ahora hay otro solucion que es igual que LM y misma resultados, en lugar de coppershim o LM solo coloca la sinta electrica 33+ y ponte eso y te va dar igual que LM resultados. yo lo voy a hacer en unos dos meses mas. amzn.to/2NMNiSG eso es igual muy conductive asi que vas a tener que usar la cinta electrica33+ y eso es como un pad thermica y dura porvida es nuevo y excelente. lo ha probado con mi pc que tenia LM y me dio lo mismo resultado. ya con eso no tienes que pintar nada o comprar coppershim . solo cinta y coloca eso. compra dos y cortas.

[@israelruiz954]

uFixTek muchas gracias! Este fin de semana pondré manos a la obra y espero que todo salga bien. Si coloco el LM tal como tu lo hiciste en el otro video no hay peligro de que se mueva y dañe mi laptop verdad? Ya que me muevo mucho y siempre estoy llevando mi laptop a diferentes lugares Dx

[@depaultm]

The big question here is: are you willing to watch 43 ads to change your thermal paste?

[@uFixTek]

thank you for the feedback, and regarding the adds youtube should not ever show you 43add in a video, there is an algorithm and it will not show all 43 adds. there is a limit of add showing for every user. in order for us, the creators to earn something in return for the information i think its fair deal for the time and effort that we put into this type of contents, and answer all the questions and help you out for no extra charge directly to you. but you can always use an add-block and have no worries about the adds. thank you for the support

[@GaMeOvErRules]

it's just sad.. such an expensive laptop.. you shouldn't have to rip it apart to do their job.. I just got a refurbished one and my games keep crashing.. I am thinking its thermal issues.. I am strongly leaning towards just returning it..

[@uFixTek]

GaMeOvErRules man i would say return that bs, because you never know how it was repaired and who repaired it and what type of paste they used, and who knows howmuch they stressed the cpu. Do me a fav check ur temps when mid gaming.

[@RomanTimm]

Why do you need the tape? Is it a must?

[@uFixTek]

no its not a must but its a safety step and its better to have it. but if you dont want to no need for it.

[@dinardeauxs8310]

Many thanks

[@uFixTek]

You are welcome, thank you for your support :)

[@Mario-eb2oo]

so to clean the fan for dust you have to do all that ?

[@uFixTek]

Mario193 nop, you just need to do half the stuff even less. You do not need to take out mobo, nor the ssd’s

[@rascal1923]

Hi just wondering I have seen other videos where they have not stripped down the pc to that state and still applied the compound is that still safe to do aswell I have a Alienware 17 r4

[@uFixTek]

you could but still kinda risky because you have to remove the fan jacks from the back end, or you have to peal off the tape that keeps the air flow to the heat sink, the way i show you in the video is the correct way of doing it, and also a safe way. i been doing repaste services for over 15years. thank you for your comment

[@rascal1923]

ok thanks ill be doing it this way im just worried about stripping it right down thats all

[@alicherifahmed5200]

i ahve only 1 question how heatsinks are doing now ??

[@uFixTek]

Ali Cherif Ahmed the heatsink and temps are doing awesome, just like first day of repaste, temps haven’t gone up, and my other clients with LM are happy. I been doing this for a very long time.

[@karlrobles9385]

possible solution for auto restarting AW 17 R4?

[@jinchang9292]

Hi, im a little confused with the usage and where to put grizzly thermal and Artic silver. Do i use them both but on different locations? In the video, i see you use only thermal grizzly

[@uFixTek]

grizzly thermal only on the CPU and GPU and the rest is artic silver 5

[@jinchang9292]

Thank you so much for your reply. Sorry to bug you but could you elaborate and list the parts for where to apply artic silver please?

[@uFixTek]

apply artic to all parts that covered or touch with thermal pads.

[@jinchang9292]

Aha got it i think i can be confident now thank you

[@bozhidarkunev6535]

Can you answer to 3 question? 1. Will not melt this electrical tape from the high temperature? 2. Why you don't remove it ? 3. Can I remove it or is risky with Liquid Metal? Thanks

[@uFixTek]

hi, its not a must have, the electrical tape, and its not a regular electrical tape, also the temp that will be generating with cpu or gpu wont be too hot. i do recommend that you do place the tape *scotch super 33+) because the liquid metal is highly conductive. also if you want to lower your temps more and fan RPM, place a copper shim and liquid metal on both ends.

[@bozhidarkunev6535]

Damon M.G Can you tell me please what type of electrical tape is this? Thank you!

[@uFixTek]

i mentioned it above "scotch super 33+"

[@uFixTek]

i mentioned it above "scotch super 33+"

[@d4rk50ul1]

@@uFixTek so it would be LM, then copper shim, then another LM layer ?

[@eggshell1501]

Can you just leave the tape there???

[@uFixTek]

Egg Shell yes nothing will ever happen. Don’t worry

[@devonhc7770]

im opening mi alien lapPC for second time maybe this will be the vidia to help me w/changing thermal stuff to arctic 5 stuff

[@uFixTek]

yes but i would highly recommend you to add the copper shim on the cpu and gpu it will drop ur temps a lot!

[@devonhc7770]

BD soporte i will look for juan on amazon thanks for the heads up i wouldve went to open it again for any type of cooling but you saved me from having to do so i will use both a copper shilling and a arctic 5 pee drip.

[@Dolphinsz]

Are thermal pads good new laptops have thermal past on the Vrams and mosfets

[@uFixTek]

I don't recommend you to change your thermal pads on your laptop , because they are just fine, unless if you going to over clock your cpu or gpu or vram then YES change your thermal pads to : amzn.to/2R5faGN you can stack the thermal pads that i send you the link to get the right height. but the 2mm thinness is just fine.

[@Dolphinsz]

uFixTek mt ASUS has thermal paste on the vrams and if head that I’f you move the laptop around liquid metal will spill out

[@uFixTek]

the LM is not going to spill anywhere, you not going to put too much of LM, you just need to paint it with LM not just leave the drop there, and once painted on the chip and on the copper heat sink, its not going anywhere. i do 3-4 LM services daily and i have done this for many years. not a single case /client came back with LM spilled around. make sure the key is PAINT with LM not adding LM.

[@rob9019]

Hi, Great video by the way. I have an alienware 13 r3 and will be repasting with Grizzly Kryonaut. I had a question. Do we have to use tape around CPU and GPU, is it ok not to use tape? and Why do we use tape? Thanks a lot

[@uFixTek]

Ro B yes i would recommend you to use it, because liquid metal is very conducive. If you dont use and it may run down on the capacitors and shorten the board. If you like subscribe it helps me😋

[@rob9019]

Thanks for the quick reply. Ok how about if I use Noctua NH1 or IC diamond. Do you think they are good pastes for alienware 13r3? Thanks for the advice. I have subscribed.

[@uFixTek]

Ro B yes they are very good paste i would recommend you to use the copper shim if you can get your hands on it. But if not those two are good go with grizzly. Good luck

[@alisureyyatorun]

Grizzly Kryonaut is not conductive so you dont need to tape around your ICs.

[@uFixTek]

but the Conductonaut its very conductive and its way better than Kryonaut. because Kryonaut is a paste, but Conductonaut its a liquid metal. Kryonaut (12.5 w/MK) being the best normal paste , Conductonaut (73 w/MK) being the best liquid metal,

[@DhalonTech]

I repasted with Grizzly conductonaut but the good results are only on gpu. In cpu side i see 95°C... I wasted it? If so, how to remove it? and place it again

[@uFixTek]

Dario A. You can remove it with alcohol that i put in the link, but you messed up the paste on ur cpu chip or is not sitting flat. Reopen and check ur cpu side . 95 its the worst of worst.

[@mebearq5843]

What thermal pads do you recommend meC

[@uFixTek]

the best thermal pad is: amzn.to/3cBYbCA

[@sanjaydamodaran3219]

Can you help me repaste my laptop. I live in mexico too

[@uFixTek]

Sanjay Damodaran sure msg me

[@MrTakasuRyuuji]

which size did you use of copper shim in this video ?

[@uFixTek]

i always use a 20mm x 20mm and .3mm

[@MrTakasuRyuuji]

@@uFixTek damn :[ I dont have it use 0.5 mm and 100 C all the time After that I repaste and dont use the temp of laptop still 100 C :'( dont know how to fix now even liquid metal conductonaut still no effect

[@uFixTek]

something is not right!! send me pictures of the heatsink and where the screws go, and the copper shim too.. also lay down the copper shim on a mirror* not glass make sure its mirror to make sure that the shims are super flat. even a slightest of curve can mean its bad shim. use this and send pics: imgur.com/upload

[@ToneysReviews]

Why thermal pad the copper shim instead of just using electric tape to hold it in place?

[@uFixTek]

hi, i used thermal pad because if i had used electric tape, when the heat goes up to 60c the tape wont hold and will stretch, by using the thermal pad on top it acts as a pressure holding against the plastic cover. BUT if you ca buy thermal adhesive then you will not need any tape nor pads. just apply the thermal adhesive on the chip and place the copper. i ordered my artic silver 5 thermal adhesive and have replaced it last week. if you like please like and subscribe as it helps :)

[@ToneysReviews]

What thickness is the copper(dimensions)/pads? I just liked and I will sub.

[@uFixTek]

Toney's Reviews the copper shim thickness .5mm (you can do it with up to 1mm ) w15mm x H15mm(but you can go for 2cmx2cm) .👌 thermal pads .7mm .... For the 17R4 with the 1070 you'll need: 2x - 1.0mm (100x15) 1x - 0.5mm (100x15) --- For the 17R4 (Sky Lake 6820HK) with the 1080 you'll need: 3x - 1.0mm (100x15) 2x - 0.5mm (100x15)

[@ToneysReviews]

I just received my two days ago 17 r4 1080 and all it does is lock up and freeze. After you did the repaste to your have you seen any issues?

[@uFixTek]

mine would freezeup after playing for few min, and fans would go crazy. after i did the repast and added the copper shims, everything has been normal and no freeze all day playing and rendering at night, max temp reaches 65 on GPU. and fan noise is low. i think they messed up your thermal paste. i highly recommend you to change the thermal paste and add the coppers. you will see a huge change!!

[@jeffryrice2258]

anyone know the thickness of the thermal pads? no forum can provide answer and i wanna service my alienware... :')

[@uFixTek]

Thank you for the feedback! if you wish to support the channel you can LIKE or SUB or both :P regarding your question: we use and service then with : 1.5mm Thermal pads amzn.to/3vTrNbt

[@Relch7]

Hello I did the repaste but I have a problem. When I plug the ac adaptor led light goes off and I smell fire.... What should I do? Did I broke the main board ? :(

[@uFixTek]

STOP plugin the charger and disconnect the battery and you have misplaced a cable or something in connected wrongly. remove everything and pay attention when putting back everything. make sure you have not placed a wrong screw in a wrong place and you have not hit the motherboard.

[@Relch7]

@@uFixTek many thanks for you quick response. I checked every cable is properly done but still same problem. By the way laptop works well but adaptor is not.

[@uFixTek]

oki let me check and i get back at you

[@Relch7]

hello again.. There was a small piece of old repaste on motherboard i cleaned it.. I disconnect cmos battery and battery.. I clicked the power button couple of times. Its solved everything works properly!! :D many thanks again..

[@uFixTek]

you see im glad you got it fixed this is awesome :) now you have more confidence on doing your service :) thank you for the support and feedback :)

[@Yusko777]

Hi. Thanks for video. Can you explain how need to put Cooper shim and LM? Cpu >LM>Cooper shim>again LM?

[@uFixTek]

Yusko777 i will make a quick demonstration video today, and i explain how you can place a copper shim with LM step by step. Subscribe so that you get notified when i upload it today😋

[@uFixTek]

Yusko777 and yes you are right : #1: LM on cpu #2: copper shim #3: LM on top of the copper shim Donde. I will explain in short video today.

[@allenvanevery4671]

Did you already upload this video of the copper shim with LM?

[@uFixTek]

No i didn't, i forgot to start recording. but its really simple just apply the LM on CPU crystal then place the copper on top of it then apply ML on top of the copper then you done put the heat sink on top. :)

[@allenvanevery4671]

Thanks for the quick response! So the link to the shim in your description links to a 30 pack of the shims, But we don't need 30 of them right? Also how often do we need to reapply LM and repeat the process?

[@piffdaddy420]

DO NOT USE ELECTRIC SCREW DRIVER for putting screws back in a laptop!!! Cross thread, or round off the screws and u will be in big trouble next time you need to take the computer apart!!! It is fine to remove the screws like this, but DO NOT do this to put screws back in! Do it by hand so you can feel if it is going in correctly (not crooked or cross threaded). and precision screws are extremely delicate and can round off and strip super easy!

[@uFixTek]

just let you know this is not a regular screw driver its calibrated for this purpose and its the same screw drive used to assemble laptops in the factory , its a torques and speed adjusted and its only purpose is this, i been doing this for over 14years and this is the correct way of screwing not just by hand force. but if you feel like you want to go manual go a head there is nothing wrong with it.and also with this specific screw drive over 14years never had a screw not going in crooked or cross threaded any screws 0%. but i appreciated your concern and i hope my reply answered your panic.

[@uFixTek]

if you still not convinced you can take a look of many videos from inside the laptop factory and see they use automated calibrated automatic screw driver to assemble one of many e.g at @4:34 kzbin.info/www/bejne/i6rZpnqEqJZ3jbM

[@adrewfis925]

Hangrybear where did you find the 2.5cm x 2.5cm x .8mm pure copper shim? I'm in the US and can't find them anywhere? I have 2.0 x 2.0 x .8mm shims that should be here Monday and wonder if these will work instead.

[@uFixTek]

Drew Norris i have lots of them, i send them to cut in canada, i buy then in 30cmx30cm and send them to cut for my size. Im living in mexico if you want i can send it to you guyz just pay the post and shit, no profit.

[@adrewfis925]

Damon, what's shipping to 46220, US cost? I would just need 3 right? I planned on .8mm thick. Are the ones you have 2.5cm x 2.5 x .8mm? I have PayPal

[@MyJapaneseLife]

FYI: I currently can'f find it anywhere in amazon too, but found a Copper plate - TOOGOO(R) 2 X Copper plate Metal plate 100X100X0.5mm From what I think with the purity level of this copper and the .5mm thickness we can just use a good pair of scissors to cut it then use a sand paper to finish the edges....

[@MyJapaneseLife]

I don't know how much will it cost but if you are in the US why don't you use i-unlock repaste service? He seems to be a pro in this field. He also applies much more than a repaste/pad. My setup costs me $150 just to buy things like paste, pad, adhesive, shim,.... and lots of them will be left unused after that. What a waste!

[@uFixTek]

HangryBear i do this for living i been repasting and repairing laptops , electronics for over 15years. I use copper shim alot and liquid metal for oc ing laptops

[@josearcos2287]

Hola, cuales eran las temperaturas antes del repaste, y cuáles son después del repaste? Espero tu respuesta amigo

[@uFixTek]

amigo no tome fotos de antes pero las temps se bajaron 23c y aparte se bajo el rpm de ventilador bastante. y si quieres mejor resultados, levanta la parte de atras del laptop unos 3centimetros y veras un cambio de 6c mas

[@josearcos2287]

uFixTek agradezco tu comentario y ayuda, haré el repaste estos días. Excelente trabajo y muy detallado. Se agradece.

[@josearcos2287]

Hola nuevamente Damon, compre la pasta y la aplicare mañana, pero antes tengo algunas preguntas antes de desarmar. 1. En el heatsink montaste unas placas de cobre (cooper) en el heatsink? Con qué objetivo, de no dañar el cobre original del heatsink? 2. Las almohadillas termales azules (blue pads) para que sirven exactamente? Para disipar el calor o para que el heatsink se ajuste correctamente? 3. Cuando apretados los tornillos del heatsink, es mejor dejarlos muy apretados para hacer un buen contacto entre CPU y heatsink o es mejor dejarlos un poco "desapretados" 4. El metal líquido siempre está "fresco y líquido" o también se seca? 5. Hay algún riesgo de transportar el equipo en una mochila o bolso, asumiendo que el metal líquido es altamente conductivo y puede hacer cortocircuito (aunque tenga cinta aislante súper +33? Esas son todas las preguntas, agradecería tu respuesta, pues eres la única persona de habla hispana que me puede ayudar. Por cierto gran video, tienes un nuevo subscriptor + Like

[@uFixTek]

Jose Arcos mira es tarde son las 2am mañana cuando llegue a oficina te contesto todo. Saludos

[@uFixTek]

#1. el motivo de poner el cobre es para rellenar y para cuando se aprieta los tornillos , tenga mas fuerza asi a gpu o cpu, ya que con solo aprietar los tornillos al maximo no es suficiente presion asi a gpu y cpu, por lo mismo cuando pongas el copper shims se rellena y se aprieta mas duro el heatsink a gpu /cpu, y eso confirma la ley de fisica y transferencia de calor. para mejor transferencia de calor es muy importante el presion de ambos objetos uno asi a otro. sobre aplicar el LM es en los ambos lados de cobre, se aplica a heatsink se aplica al ambos lados del copper shim y se aplica a cristal de cpu/gpu. y el LM no se seca y no caduca, unavez puesto ya no se quita o levanta, al levantar hay que volver a aplicar. el unico motivo de LM or pasta thermicas es rellenar los imperfecciones de copper , para que rellene las micro rayas, qu no se ve con ojo, y ayuda a transferir el calor un 30% mejor, pero lo otros % depende del calidad de heatsink que grado de copper esta usando, y la otra % mayor es el presion que se hace el heatsink a gpu/cpu.

[@dandan6683]

can I use any kind of paste even liquid metal. will it void the warranty? and do I also need to replace the thermal pads?

[@uFixTek]

yes you can use any paste and it wont void your warranty.

[@dandan6683]

thanks. Is replacing thermal pads will be good for temperature too?

[@uFixTek]

Dan Dan yes my friend, changing the thermal paste is important for the long lasting of your pc/laptop

[@rascal1923]

should i change the pad size aswell as i have seen other videos saying it should be done in some parts due to not being thick anough

[@uFixTek]

if you want to go ahead change the pads to a bit thicker but don't over do the thickness, and to remind you don't even need the pads if you are not going to overclock your laptop as i don't recommend anyone to over clock. the reason that i say dont over clock is that when you overclock pre-much you pumping more voltage tot eh components "where the pads are" and even that you coll them down , but you bringing the life spam of the laptop to half. so i wont worry about the pads, and don't OC the laptop. e.g since i did this video i been using it daily 12h and working and gaming at max and its solid. if you got any question let me know. thanks for the comment

[@thelifestyle2412]

Can you remove the heatsink and repaste without taking out motherboard?

[@uFixTek]

Thai Hoang yes you can but then you have to detach the fans from the heatsink because the fan cables are on the other side, and i wanted to show people how to take apart the motherboard too, for the people that want to know how to replace it.

[@thelifestyle2412]

I recently saw a post on this repaste. Someone in my Facebook group tried this and some how broke the LCD cable that's attached to the motherboard. How do you unplug ribbon cable from board ? Which way and what to remove first?

[@uFixTek]

Thai Hoang again when you follow the steps you can do it your way as you go on ,take your time and dont rush. I been doing electronic repair for far too long.

[@qwerty6789x]

whats your Full Load Temp now? i follow this guide at High performance my unit reaches 95 degres unlike 98-100+ prior liquid metal

[@uFixTek]

my max load temps are 87c , lift the back end of the laptop about 1-3cm off table and it will drop 5c o more , or your copper shim may have a very tiny bit of curve and or not enough pressure.

[@qwerty6789x]

@@uFixTek actually i did not use any copper shim. I remove the old thermal paste then put liquid metal directly without added copper shim i think thats whats missing and thank you for this guide

[@uFixTek]

your welcome and keep us posted, and good luck :)

[@qwerty6789x]

@@uFixTek i let you know once i got the copper shim its really hard to find from where i am. Here in Singapore

[@uFixTek]

oki good luck , hopefully you find it.

[@neromax5891]

Hi is this still work good lqeid matil

[@uFixTek]

Thank you for the feedback! if you wish to support the channel you can LIKE or SUB or both :P regarding your question: still the top of the line and the best my friend :)

[@neromax5891]

@@uFixTek How much temperature now??

[@uFixTek]

it depends a lot on the location and room temperature and many other factors. but you will see 20-30c drop