Aligning Motorcycle Fork Legs Properly After Mounting The Front Wheel

[@PERTHSCOOTER07]

It’s the little things like this that people miss. 27 years as a car mechanic and I’m still learning stuff like this. Love your work Dave

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you for watching!

[@PeteyPipes32]

Dammit i been doing this all wrong for so long. This makes alot more sense. I was locking in the calipers and not leaving them loose and I never tightened them down while holding the brake. I learn something new every video I watch.

[@whocanmakeyourwholeweek7272]

i used to do this years(20)ago regulary with my dirtbikes when changing tyres. i havent had dirtbikes for 2 decades and lost this important knowledge. thanks very much for reminding me of this. youre instructions are clear and precise. thanks again.👍

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you for being nudged and sharing what you will start doing again based on the importance it had for you with your dirt bikes!

[@djalkyd]

Thanks for the tips and the tuning Dave. You set up my suspension a few months ago at Streets of Willow on my 2023 V4. It made a big difference at the track and so much better on the street. Hope to see you at the track again in November.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you. Next SoCal date is Chuckwalla Nov 6th with Moto Forza.

[@shedred1967]

Besides your owners manual and shop manual specific to your vehicle, this gentleman is a goto for how to work on and properly set up your motorcycle for maximum enjoyment.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Wow, thanks!

[@233kosta]

I LOVE the simplicity of setting stuff like this up correctly. Also thanks for highlighting the potential issue with the step I skipped when mounting my calipers

[@ouimetco]

Damn Dave Moss your deep into bikes man. Been riding for 44 years and am a mechanic by trade. Your videos are excellent and carefully thought out. Thanks for your contribution to motorcycling man. Cheers

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks for your honest comments, thank you! I appreciate you watching and enjoying the content.

[@EricBanner571]

Dave, you are a good man for sharing your extensive knowledge with the motorcycle community.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

I appreciate that!

[@Ukmongoose3]

Thanks for this video Dave. I’m about to take both my wheels out to change the tyres and this content is a great help. Keep it up!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you!

[@mikeburton5482]

Thanks Dave I have found your channel useful so many times and I love to learn more and more. Too bad my thirst for knowledge began at a later time in life.

[@harwoods11]

I just did this to a bike I had rebuilt the forks on... Suberb. Now rides like it should. Thank you so much... Everyday is day to learn something new. 👍

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you for sharing your experience!

[@Sam-gu6im]

Hi Dave thanks so much for making and posting this video. A so called bike mechanic ripped me off royally and made a right mess of my bike a year ago. Still trying to put everything right. Could have been killed riding home it was so bad. This video has given me something else to check. Certain he wouldn't have done any of this. I get a violent wobble on my steering at any speed no matter how slow.

[@chrishendry1480]

Dave did a video on this a long time back, I’ve been doing this ever since and it certainly makes your bike run true! 👍

[@JamesBrown-ux9ds]

Finally - we waited for that to come now for serveral years, thank you for your service!

[@damiene9563]

I wonder how many bikes leave dealers without any of this being done properly, never mind those of us messing around at home or at the track? Yet another really useful video.....keep them coming Fella!

[@tombryan1]

14.2 million

[@Xsheaffer]

Most of them.

[@jbroadbelt6]

Been researching this for 2 years. Can tell you with 99% accuracy that the number is 11.3 million. You were close though!

[@Ukmongoose3]

If not all of them! I’m doing this myself in a few minutes, what a great help this video has been.

[@RickyJr46]

Dave, about twenty years ago (!) I was a customer at the GMD Computrack shop in El Segundo, just outside LAX. They did work for the American Honda roadrace team in AMA, and I'd seen their CBR600 Supersport bikes in back of the shop. Morris told me that the team was chasing setup problems at the track with one of those CBRs, and it was traced back to front end misalignments which occurred when cinching down the straps inside the truck! One crew was doing it correctly (Miguel Duhamel's, if I recall) and the other crew was twisting things up. A simple matter to fix, once the problem was understood and the knowledge was shared. Even the professionals will mess things up sometimes!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Great information and thank you for sharing!

[@baneoffsight4871]

Thanks Mr Moss brilliant advice👌 Most of us just don't know these intricacies and encounter problems when we least expect it

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank for the comment - tips and tricks can really make a difference!

[@MrDEANOSCOOLVIDS]

This is a great video , after watching loads of different people and doing my own bikes I learnt the proper way here . I tightened the caliper first

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks for your thoughts! Glad the video helped you.

[@jmannUSMC]

I'm doing my first track day this weekend and just put on fresh tires for it. Glad I saw this video beforehand as I learned something new and it makes perfect sense to me why you did the things, in did in that order. I will redo my front end first thing tomorrow, thanks Dave!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Have a great time and welcome to the track! Don't forget to find your pressures and gain cold to hot should be 3-4psi ideally.

[@stephenscharf6293]

Dave is _the man!_ This is superb information. I just put new tires on my VFR and wasn't aware of this protocol, but now that I've seen it, it makes perfect sense. Thank you, Dave. I had Dave set up the suspension on my CBR600F4i at a track day at Miller years ago, and it _transformed_ the handling of the bike; the bike's handling was *on rails* after Dave set me up. 👍

[@ericsmith1737]

I learn something new every video I watch, thank you for your time.

[@Shaded]

2:14 "Don't you die on me!"

[@stickyfingers9016]

Ha.

[@SteffanoDucati]

Dave glad to see you're doing well and looking forward to seeing you again up here in Canada or at the Ridge when this mess is over :)

[@catalystreactionsbw]

I, like everyone else am anxious to get back to traveling to help riders worldwide. A little more patience......

[@b4bluey]

Glad I saw this, It`s good to see a Professional show how it should be done !! >>> Thank You Dave !!

[@micheljauvin3536]

after all those years i just learned quite a bit in this video thanks Dave

[@EarthSurferUSA]

I know that bike has less suspension travel than my dirt bike, but I have learned not to be a fan of any method of getting the fork legs parallel if you are not measuring it somehow. Using this method on my dirt bike is also standard YT procedure, but after I actually made a gauge, (1" dia. round stock aluminum that fits through my brake disk, faced off on a lathe on both ends to 5.661" long, the distance between my plated fork legs, calculated from a triple clamp.), I found the pump and brake method to be off about .030". After I got the legs parallel within + or - .001", I found that I had to go to the next stiffer fork springs because I eliminated the binding. Lots of riders are wearing out their bushings prematurely, and not getting the best action from their forks. It does not matter if the axle is threaded on one end, or clamped on both ends. The forks should be parallel, and not many are. :)

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Agreed, very few are. Thanks for sharing your ingenious solution to remove binding.

[@johnny_123b]

Would be great if my service place knew this

[@GearUp3d]

Thank you for this video. I am learning every day something new about my bike and your videos are pretty much the best.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you for the kind words and enjoy your learning from our videos!

[@mario_on_e-odin2.0]

Wow, thanks a lot, I bought new bike and hear and fell some repeating friction from front wheel increasing accordingly with speed, so have to align wheel and brakes properly. Thanks for sharing !!!

[@XNeo27564]

Dave, you helped me tune my suspension with your video's. But there was a glitch I couldnt tune out of there. Ocassionally I would feel some unbalance in the front. Not all the time, but enough to notice in certain pieces of road. Sometimes the bike wanted me to lean at slow speeds, and 2 seconds later not Etc. Continuous small adjustments... . A motorcycle mechanic fixed a leaking fork seal couple months ago. I figured the oil must be old on one side or different viscosity... They claimed to me the other one was recently replaced already... Today I did what you showed here. And jezus, the floating axle side exluded about 1mm now, before it was flush. 1 hand springing the front imediatly felt a change in smoothness and balance/preload etc. between left and right. Not like the seals where binding... Drove today, and it cuts the cornerline way more stable. Bro, your my hero. Again you indirectly saved my life, and improved my driving experience.!!!! A question, I didnt release the calipers, should I calibrate those again to the new wheel position?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks for watching and using the content to assist you and your motorcycle.. Yes and go through the full reset to 100% ensure the calipers are correct.

[@XNeo27564]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks Dave.Sorry I forgot to mention I do have older type calipers which are mounted sideways onto the fork. I had a buddy's fork in mind which has same as the video.

[@ScrambleNorth]

Ooopsie, I’ve learned something today

[@stefan2meter]

Same for me! Will be redoing mine soon... the right way. Would be nice to learn -why- this needs to be done.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@stefan2meter If you do not do it the fork leg can be misaligned and bind giving 1. Stiction 2. Uneven brake pad contact 3. Angled braking forces 4. Wheel doesn't spin 4 or 5 times, maybe half a turns

[@jamieadams9578]

Thank you so much! I replaced my rotors and pads, but for the life of me couldn't work out why I was getting uneven contact patches on my rotors... Subbed.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@jamieadams9578 Thanks for subscribing! Next step is a toothbrush and soapy water for the caliper to make sure the pistons move evenly (yes, there's a video for cleaning brake calipers). Enjoy!

[@jamieadams9578]

Thanks, will do. Got the seal kit ready to go

[@rcafmaintainer3723]

Love the sounds of the track!! Another great video.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you, glad you enjoyed it.

[@steveman1982]

My workshop manual says to use feeler guages to check clearance between the calipers and the rotor. (Brembo calipers without guide bushings). I've just carefully eyeballed it every time with success so far.

[@jacobhendrickson8935]

Wow I thought the other end was the captive end. And I’ve been having chatter. I’ve obviously been doing this so wrong. Wow thank you so much. I actually had put my front wheel on and left my tools on my seat so I could make sure I was doing things right and glad I did. I have also never used the front brakes method holding them while tightening the calipers. The reason I question my methods was during removal of my front wheel when I was loosening my pinch bolts I heard a click which seemed like one of the forks settled into a new position on the axle making me realize something wasn’t in line. I was definitely having chatter under hard braking and now I know why.

[@ioandragulescu6063]

great vid, helped me a lot for my 1st front wheel removal. My addition ? a zip tie to hold the break leaver :)

[@bc-mr1si]

excellent video dave.j had problems with the front wheel not spinning freely. went to a lot of trouble. stripping down the calipers and changing all seals and a 4 hour brake bleed🙄got there eventually. had I seated the axle correctly like u have done in the first place everything would have been fine 😬 every days a school day.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

A tip of my hat to you for the commitment to make it right and thank you for watching this video so you have a permanent method from this point on as the first step.

[@stephenboyce4409]

I had major issues with calipers binding on my BMW S1000R following the replacement of fork seals. This will be the solution - thanks very much Dave!

[@TeamSimpsonRacing]

Did it fix it? I have a problem with my discs not being central to my calipers and causing massive brake judder

[@stephenboyce4409]

@@TeamSimpsonRacing Hi Toby, yes it did. If your discs are causing pulsing of the hand lever or judder then you should check them for warping. If the floating bobbins are dry and not allowing the disc to self correct or the disc has been overheated, then it could be warped. There are plenty of videos on youtube around how to service the bobbins and free them up.

[@TheKilladp]

Perfect timing on this video, have to do this today! Thank you.

[@georgevprochazka5316]

Dave, how did you know I was going to need this vid ? Thanx !!!!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Errr.... hmmmmm...... tea leaves? :)

[@georgevprochazka5316]

@@catalystreactionsbw I like people like you who know their stuff !

[@tuomaz]

Thank you for this! I have R6 and always tightened everything at once!😅 well the bike has been working still great nothing is bended, but next time I will do it this way☺

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Glad it helped!

[@SuperBoomer95]

The exception to this is the forks on an 06/07 zx10r that has a "normal" bolt and nut as an axle (neither side floats). The guy I bought my zx6r race bike from put on 06 zx10 forks and I get a bit of excess stiction in the front with no way to correct it. I might send one fork leg to a machine shop to bore the axle hole out and get a spacer made to float the fork. But that will be a winter project

[@ivanplevneliev4612]

You are one of the GOAT per my knowledge and understanding based on what I have seen in my experience with various people and motorcycles! I have always wondered why sometimes I have so much drag in my front wheel after tyre/brake pad change! Do we need to loosen up front wheel axle and then brake adjust after replacing pads as well? Keep up the good work.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

With a pad change, rotors need sanding. With the tyre change, you just follow the process. In either case, getting the axle torqued correctly is the first step. Leaving the pinch bolts loose on the leg the fork goes through for installation is the correct starting point. Thanks for watcxhing.

[@chadkline4268]

Tons of great content on this channel!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you for watching!

[@brno221973]

Never ever done it that way but I will from now on. Excellent tutorial.👍

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you! You will be really pleased with the benefits as every time you do this the front wheel will spin free or show you the brake calipers need a cleaning via inconsistent rotation speed.

[@Heyalth]

i wish you were closer to the east coast man

[@steve23464]

I'm so glad my bike can't watch Dave's videos. I feel it'd be pretty upset with me if it could.

[@renegarcia1807]

Sir that's been very very helpful thank you very much for your time and dedication very good

[@AJYZF1R2010]

Thank you I’m going to be removing my wheels and tires for new rubber and I had no idea you had to do this

[@eddiesheeran5791]

Thanks Dave! I didn't know any of this. I'm about to use your tips to align the front end of a 2003 CRF150F dirt bike. They have a similar fork design as the sports bikes you were working on (a threaded left fork for the axle and pinch bolts on the right fork).

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Excellent - and the end result will be a front wheel that spins far more easily.

[@iglesiasminondo]

Muchas gracias! One million likes. Very instructive. Saludos desde Guatemala!

[@crazy4honda]

Great video! Should’t the fork pinch bolts be loosened through this procedure to truly get everything “square?”

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you. The pinch bolts on the leg the axle goes through should be loose as part of this procedure.

[@handendaer]

u can use the bending on the free leg to square it.. with same procedures but instead, bend it (free leg) far in then out, measure it if u want to, and half the distance should be the middle.. for some its quicker and no bounce needed. whatever u comfort with:)

[@Wabbit1961]

Very understandable and logical with the sequence that these steps are done. If the rotors are not tightened last, is that why you can warp your rotors?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

If you simply tighten the calipers without holding the brake on they can align off center. That can contribute to the rotor being stressed and potentially warped in time.

[@roosthrower]

Thanks awesome. A velcro strap be good to hold lever

[@moonshinepz]

amazing the uses in the garage for an old bicycle inner tube.👍

[@KR4Z3D666]

Or my old favourite, a zippy tie!

[@raptorrider007]

Good instruction - for safety sake - double Check all screws before riding: leaving those calipers loose and tightening them later is a risk because you may forget them. My advice: never interrupt work when your assembling the wheels and brakes. Paint marks can help to be 100% sure.

[@chriskahlson]

Excellent and thorough video thank you Dave

[@bradjean4486]

Definitely was taught the proper way thanks Dave

[@ashmyrmidonsminions9271]

Awesome as always Dave, thanks for sharing the knowledge, Nice mask 👏

[@PTVplayer]

Wow....been doing it all wrong then for years. If you haven’t already, please make a video on setting up the rear wheel properly. Every day is a school day!

[@dare92]

Thanks for this video! Even though it's been some time since upload and I keep coming back to this video to review the procedure to balance the free fork. I have one question: why would you first tighten the brake calipers which are mounted directly onto the forks before bouncing the front end and not first bounce it and then center and tighten the brake calipers? Only after bouncing, tightening the pinch bolts, lifting it back up to spin the wheel to get the brake calipers centered would give you the best braking performance no?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

I set the caliper nut 1/4 turn from tight, bounce the front end and torque the pinch bolts. Then spin the wheel and hold the brake lever firmly on and torque the brake bolts. It has been a while, I am fighting cancer and need to take time for myself to win this fight.

[@marcoliocops]

Thank you Dave that's an essential video

[@Bantyrooster026]

Dave Moss, I hope you have many children, they all tune suspension, and they would be craftsmen and prosperous.

[@piecrustyumyum]

Dave, can you do an indepth video on a post crash check? Like resettling the frame, forks, engine, checking to make sure the frame isn't bent etc.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

something like this but in more detail? kzbin.info/www/bejne/rHjOgYKhZ8uVj8U

[@paullazarus790]

VERY, Very, very helpful! THANK YOU!!!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Much appreciated and glad you enjoyed the video.

[@RickyJr46]

Learning is occurring. Thank you Dave!

[@kustombike6254]

Great video without any needless chit chat. Thank you. Great work. Got a question also: When aligning a 4 pinch bolt fork, would it make a difference, if tightening the calipers after pushing the forks down and before tightening the second pair of pinch bolts? Instead of tightening the calipers right after tightening the first pair?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks for the compliment. Given your description it will not matter if the pinch bolts on the nut/fasten leg are tight, so just make sure the side that the axle goes through is loose. Then you can tighten pinch bolts and calipers as you choose.

[@kustombike6254]

Thank you for taking the time to respond and helping me out to understand the matter better. I appreciate.@@catalystreactionsbw

[@hornet224]

Instead of holding the brake lever and twisting the body to reach the bolts, use several thick rubber bands so your hands are free. Irwin grip clamps work even better.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Great suggestion to help others and thank you for the post.

[@drewdemien481]

Good tipper. It's what I do. I have to keep everything taut but wrenchable. 58mm marzocchi that apparently I'm the only person alive who has one on his Harley. They were huge money new. I got mine off a custom chrome buyout in 2007 for 100.00 trees also 100.00. Wanna hear something fun about brain injuries? I just realized this year why it vibrates so hard. I had a bad day and never oiled them. Yeah...get em in boys. I never said I was 100%.

[@93Ariez]

Thank you dave moss. Learned something really useful.

[@jalex19100]

Surprisingly, my 1985 BMW bike owners manual describes it the same as shown (single pinch bolt)

[@avedgy]

Oh wow that was useful. I'll definitely do this next time i get me tires replaced.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

When you do, please post the differences in distance for the front and rear so others can see a real/live experience in action.

[@nicolasbiette5573]

Thank's from Nice,Azur Coast, good job ,nobody do this,I've learned something too Nicolas

[@Thomas-xx7fr]

Hey @dave moss tuning, can you do a video about how to vertically align the forks in the triple clamps (so the wheel sits perfectly level left to right)? great video by the way!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

I take it this is based on having different length fork springs or different rate fork springs in either leg?

[@emilmuhrman]

I pretty much do it this way, but instead of just bouncing it up and down I also take it for a short spin and brake a few times.

[@A6Legit]

For one set of pinch bolts on the axle, if im trying to straighten my forks and have the lower tree clamps loose as well, would i still torque the axle first before pumping the forks? This video has helped a lot since i believe having the axle threaded into one side has made all my attempts at aligning my wheels go all wrong.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Yes, you would torque the axle first.

[@bowlerball4246]

I’ve ended up here after watching you replacing fork seals on the R6, making it look a simple job! Not sure if should be attacking the job or not, or if should just pay to have the job done properly. If I was to carry this job out, what fork oil would you recommend.? I’m a bit of a fatty weighing in at 14st, 200lbs! Great advice on the front wheel alignment tho Dave, I to will be following the great advice given in this video as I’m a sucker for being meticulous 👍🏻

[@catalystreactionsbw]

If you us the pause button regularly and take your time, it is a simple job to do with very few tools. Give it a go! :)

[@jimsnow9183]

I've had a couple of easy dirt track tipovers with my V-Strom 650, loaded with camping gear, and now my attention is constantly on a longer reach to the left grip, compared to the right. I've noticed this subtly present on all my bikes and figured it was due to arm length differences, but this time it's more pronounced. Tomorrow, I'll loosen up the front wheel and reset everything as you describe to see if anything changes.

[@mabsbry1318]

Same issue on my bike. Did you follow this video, and has it sorted it out now?

[@jimsnow9183]

No I didn't, Mabs, I got busy riding and procrastinating. I have to do it shortly, I have an almost worn out tire and the road temps are dropping here in Canada. Trying to squeeze the last thirty-tooth out of the rubber. I expect to do the swap in the next 2-3 wks and I'll let you know if there is any change. If not, it'll be time to hire Dave, change the fork oil, and make it right.

[@matthysharmse4200]

Brilliant. going to share this with so many home mechanics. thanks for the awesome information...

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Please do!

[@wilddoktor]

I found this video because lately when I put the fork brace back on my '04 V-Strom 1000 after changing a tire, I get massive stiction. When I remove the brace, all is well and I can set sag as normal. I thought maybe I was putting the tire back on incorrectly. So of course I looked up Dave first, and - very timely - found this new video! I followed these instructions exactly tonight, and...when I put the fork brace on, I still get massive stiction. (Remove it, and all is well.) Any idea what causes the forks to stick when you put a fork brace on?

[@RideWithTheWolf]

I tried to put my 06 axle back in and it wouldn't go through the other fork! Pounding it in ruined the whole axle and the fork! I had to sand down a lip on the fork and the axle and then ended up buying a new axle! I don't know how this happened! I think maybe my stand is not level, it's 100 degrees out? Do I have to put the axle in the freezer lol?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Was this a first time event for the axle installation? If so, what was different this time? Were the forks recently worked on? Is this a new stand? Something created an alignment issue and hopefully the new axle will go in with no issues once qwe find the cause.

[@DavidGizzarelli]

@@catalystreactionsbw yes just got bike and never removed the wheels before. I do on my dirtbike all the time. I think it's the new stands I got. It was hot out so the parts may have just been expanded and tight.

[@Shango99]

Hey Dave great video, but i think there is step missing from this if the legs are considered to move left right about a pivot then the lower triple clamp should be loosened but still tight to hold so the pivot is moved to the upper triple and the fork let has more room to move straight, be interested in your/the communities thoughts on this, thanks for all your vids

[@catalystreactionsbw]

One leg is captive in that is is screwed/bolted to the spacer. The side the axle goes through is the free/open side and that is the leg that can move on the axle shaft, so we need to make sure it is straight. The leg base is part of the moving tube as the triple clamps hold the outer tubes in place. If you want to be 100% sure, loosen the steering stem nut, all triple clamp bolts and set the forks even. Tighten the steering stem nut, then triple clamp bolts. Bounce the front, then follow the process.

[@Shango99]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks Dave, that makes total sense. Cheers.

[@JC-er7je]

You're awesome. Thanks Dave!

[@brodriguez7934]

Thanks Dave, CBR F4 looks similar to he R6

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thank you!

[@somestuffithoughtyoumightl6985]

4:00 I recently removed and cleaned my three piston front calipers and was surprised how much static drag they seem to have. They spin, but the dragging makes a sound much like this one, so I guess it’s normal?

[@AntaresSQ01]

Yes that's normal as long as they are not actually stopping the wheel completely it's not a real issue, this happens when the pistons pull back but the pads stay against the rotor ever so slightly, since there is no pressure on it, heating and wear is not a real issue, quick fix to this is using break pad glue against the pistons so they pull the pad back with them, on the road it's recommended to always use this, only reason not to use it would be on track and just so you keep things clean and easy to swap. Cleaning those little channels that the little flaps on the pad go into + the pins it slides on can go a long was too.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Glad you made the time to clean the calipers with a toothbrush and soapy water. As long as the pistons move evenly, job done! The dragging sound is normal and should be a continuous sound.

[@luddite6239]

Very clear and very helpful, thank you. A quick question - why do we centre the calipers before bouncing the forks? If the 'free' fork leg does move, since the caliper is fixed to it, won't that mean that the caliper has moved slightly too and will need to be re-centred?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Yes, that can happen if the free leg 'adjusts' post bounce, then the caliper on it would be out of alignment and would ned to be reset. Centering calipers would be the last task logically.

[@luddite6239]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks for taking the time to reply. Much appreciated.

[@palerider6611]

@@catalystreactionsbw Came to post the exact question. Thanks for the explanation and the tips to center everything. Your video with the narrative explanation goes worlds beyond what the service manual says.

[@stpaul69]

Dave, I just put a new front tyre on my Husky 701 Enduro and reinstalled it. The first ride noticed the front brake is very stiff and doesn't modulate. Assuming the legs being misaligned with the brake caliper is the cause? Will try this trick tonight.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

If all you did was change the tyre, the only variable is the mounting procedure. So, try this trick tonight. If the wheel is still binding, you might take a closer look at the brake pad wear and take a tooth brush to the brake caliper pistons.

[@NebtmsHe]

Great Video. I am a newbie and have never disassembled the front axle. I am wondering whether the front wheel is free to move along the front axle without the calipers. If not, what is holding it? Thanks a lot!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

The front wheel is free to move laterally if the spacer set up allows it and if so, the spacer(s) are worn and need to be replaced. Normally there is no lateral play.

[@NebtmsHe]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks Dave! That's helpful.

[@stevenfortier6436]

I would be surprised if most mechanics take the time to do it right. Seems like a lot of them are just trying to get it done asap. I wish I had a Dave Moss out here in Utah.

[@tuomaz]

Yea, probably most mechanics wont do this. I have seen few and didn't do it..

[@justhavnfunhere590]

I would love to come work for you. Being able to pick your brain and work on bikes would be awesome.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

To Joao Santos. Your comment is not accessible. Yes, do it by tightening the pinch bolts on the bolt/nut side first and then tighten the free leg second.

[@Bikeadelic]

Thank you Dave very useful info! I came off my honda 2000 cbr600FY a low speed low side. New mirror and repair the fairings and it was fine except the steering has to be slightly to the right to have the wheel forward? Forks have been dropped off at a specialist (mct) and he said the forks looked straight so I’m hoping it was just the forks turning in the yokes???

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Remove the yokes and see if they are truly flat on a piece of glass. If they are on the bike, loosen the steering stem nut to finger tight and install one fork. Bring the other fork in and if it is off center the yokes need to be looked at.

[@Bikeadelic]

Dave Moss Tuning when you say “bring the other fork in and see if it’s off centre” you mean install it but no need to torque everything and just see if both forks are parallel by measuring top and bottom? Thanks Dave, when I get my suspension back and the fairings i will be in touch regarding a set up. I ow you some £££ anyway tbh because I’ve leaned so much already.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@Bikeadelic Locate one leg and bolt it in place. Bring the other leg through the lower yoke and see if it is on center with the upper yoke. If not, then the yokes need checking.

[@Bikeadelic]

Dave Moss Tuning ohhhhh ok yes that makes sense! Thank you Dave 🙏

[@johndglynn]

Spot on Dave 👍🏻

[@benjii_r1]

thanks Dave! I need this for my Yamaha R1 2004 :D

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Excellent - thanks for going the extra yards and getting it done.

[@benjii_r1]

@@catalystreactionsbw Yes I have achieved it! I have left my front wheel and brakes perfect thanks to you, now my wheel spins and spins! hahaha :D greetings from Galicia, Spain. a big hug!

[@smithmark2773]

Great info in your videos love it! thank you Dave!!

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Thanks for watching!

[@keiranmarley4052]

Hey god... I mean Dave! I would love your insight on two questions. I work as a bicycle mechanic and when aligning the brake caliper, at least on bicycles, we are able to completely alleviate the brake pads from touching on the rotor. I see in many videos that this doesn't seem to be the case with motorbikes. Why is this and was this the intention in the first place? Question 2 - I have an MT-07 (2019) and I am about to do your recommended suspension modifications to improve the ride quality. The forks are currently stock and I weigh around 110kg (more muscle, less fat, promise haha) and I do stunt riding. If I increase the weight of the fork oil, will this be a bad idea in terms of wheelieing as sometimes I would be coming down harder. I wasn't sure if having a fork that returns slower would do more harm in my case. Merry christmas! Kind regards, Keiran.

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Hi Keiran. Q1; most riders do not clean calipers or pistons with any regularity at all so they get stuck and often there is enough vacuum pressure internally to sustain the current piston protrusion to create perpetual drag (rubber seal sucked down in the reservoir). That means less distance for the piston to push the pads into full contact therefore brake faster and harder (weight and speed being the two dominant factors). Q2: from your description, this will make wheelies and endo's much easier to do with far more control with a very consistent rebound rate. The issue from wheelies is oil volume and internal pressure. Too much oil and it will blow out the seal so start with 20w to an oil height of 130mm (forks compressed, no spring inside). Spacer 8mm shorter. Start with the forks at the joint of the fork cap and tube, then test 4mm and 8mm lower.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

I worked for a Mt. Bike manufacturing company in the mid 90's, as disk brakes were just starting to be used for down hill racing. Everybody I worked with was a avid cyclist, but I came from the Motocross industry to be their machinist, (Nuke Proof industries, when it was in Michigan). All the guys said disk brakes won't work for cross country racing, because a tiny bit of drag makes a big difference when your legs are only pumping out about .25hp. But of course, eliminating drag was figured out for bicycles. My 45hp dirt bike does not care. :)

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Thicker oil will make the dampening more harsh for bumps, but probably feel better for landings. I think you would like a stiffer fork spring better, (will not get harsh on smaller bumps, with very little spring preload). I like to use as little compression dampening as I can for the bumps, and use heavier spring to handle bottoming out. You usually need more rebound dampening to control the heavier spring rate, that hopefully you can adjust with the rebound clicker, (not run out of the adjustment range.).

[@andrewrogers3240]

Hi Dave. I followed theRSV4 front wheel removal and fitting guide on my ‘19 Tuono RR and finfpd that the axle sits 1mm to 2mm proud outside the left fork leg. Where might I have gone wrong? Cheers for the helpful videos. Andrew

[@andrewrogers3240]

‘Find’

[@catalystreactionsbw]

If the front axle torqued correctly and the front wheel spins easily with no brake drag, nothing is wrong.

[@andrewdouglas4211]

I have an R6, same as shown in the video. Question: Doesn't it make more sense to torque the axle nut BEFORE the pinch bolts? Note that I do have a great big hex driver socket to hold the axle still so I'm able to torque without tightening the pinch bolts. Yeah, you are seating the axle from the right leg side and lightly tightening the axle bolt so in theory that left leg is where it's supposed to wind up, but doesn't the final torque move things just a bit more? Tightening the pinch bolts first prevents that (assuming it's true).

[@catalystreactionsbw]

If you want to torque the nut at the beginning you need to trap the axle via the pinch bolts and then release the pinch bolts again to continue through the process,

[@andrewdouglas4211]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thanks. I have a big hex socket that I use to keep the axle from turning while tightening, so no need to do up/undo the pinch bolts. Is immobilizing the axle the only reason why you do up the left-side pinch bolts before torquing the axle bolt?

[@catalystreactionsbw]

@@andrewdouglas4211 Yes, correct. That would be efficient.

[@andrewdouglas4211]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thank you sir!

[@andrewpotter-cobbold9946]

Hi Dave. Thanks for the awesome video my 04 zx10 had a spindle the goes in from the right but the left hand bolt acts as the centering spacer for the spindle. So neither side locks up against the wheel spacer unless the wheel is tight both sides. How do I make sure the calipers are seated correctly on this case

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Set your axle first. Get that task done, bounce the front end and get the forks aligned. Lastly, do the calipers.

[@richardwoodhouse8397]

When you nip up the callipers with the brake on it ads weight to the wheel and moves the caliper back a little the opposite way of the breaking force, whay i do is spin the wheel forward motion pull the brake fasten the lever on, with velcro strap, just before tightening caliper bolts i hold the wheel with a forward retention ?

[@VondaInWonderland]

Oh man, this seems complicated. I don't have a stand. I got a scooter and my daughter wrecked it a week later 😭 I'm going to try my best, step by step. I'll let you know how it went ♥

[@catalystreactionsbw]

Take your time, use the pause button as much as needed,. It will be worth the effort!

[@VondaInWonderland]

@@catalystreactionsbw Thank you! That's what I was thinking. I looked at my scooter, and it doesn't have all the parts that yours has, I just have a little one ♥