Understanding RV Electrical!

The RV electrical setup can be a complicated thing. I hope this is a good starting point for those interested in RV Electrical. There are so many ways to customize it to fit your needs but this is a good starting point to begin with a few recommendations that might really help those starting off in RVing.
30 amp EMS Surge Protector We use amzn.to/2IpU6VH
50 amp version. amzn.to/2VSTvUh
30 amp Portable Surge Protector. amzn.to/2xk9L6B
50 amp Portable Surge Protector amzn.to/2IvnCJG
Our RV Battery Monitor. amzn.to/2TP8hsm
Budget Battery Monitor. amzn.to/2xf5tND
Power Adapters
30-50 amzn.to/2ItPY70
15-50 amzn.to/38tDbw1
50-30 amzn.to/2IpXnUW
15-30 amzn.to/2TvGluI
Multi-Stage Converter amzn.to/33083mx
Our Inverter Charger amzn.to/2Isk2jx
Here is our Amazon page for our favorite gear. We will be adding more products as we find more products we use and love. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases.
www.amazon.com/shop/jaredgillis
[e-mail]
Passport America WE USE THIS ALL THE TIME. passportamerica.com?rfsn=2638351
Harvest Host Link harvesthosts.refr.cc/jaredgillis
Membership link
/ @allaboutrvs

[@journeyswithcraig]

I know nothing about electrical and am just starting to learn before we get into RV living. Your style of explaining made the basics soooo much easier to begin to understand. Thank you!

[@johnmartin3735]

RV life is the ultimate life true freedom beautiful scenery n waking up with sasquatch banging on ur window ( just happened to us a few days ago in upstate NY) but it was awesome I seen him in my camera that's how I Kno unless a 8ft guy is running around the mountains in 23 deg n doing it 37 miles from civilization but hey it's earth were not as smart as we thought lol

[@Teresa-mf2nx]

Me too!!

[@MrBrandon235]

Thank you every much to all of your video just finished my first trip to Holiday Park at west point lake and thank to all the video you have made by setup was fast and easy. I cant wait to do more upgrade and trips.

[@Les988]

Thank you for a fantastic video. You provided a lot of information that should help me get started into the process of changing from lead acid 6v golf cart batteries to lithium. I will probably watch this several times.

[@lorih379]

Thank you for your videos. They are helpful. As new rv’ers we’ve learned so much.

[@ghostpepperrides4805]

Getting into the RV world and being a retired Electrical/Mechanical contractor I think you did a excellent job explaining the system. I enjoy the refreshing and learning anything new. Sub

[@goldenyearstraveling8248]

Thank you Jared for another RV Instructional Video. Your videos are very easy to follow and understand and are especially important to new RVers such as me. Thank you for taking your personal time to help others.

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thanks

[@susansigler510]

You do a great job explaining things! Thank you!

[@MMKarrh]

Great video of the overview of RV electrical systems for those of us that are new at this! Thanks!

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thank you

[@susanmetz4577]

Thank you for putting this in terms a layperson can understand. Well done.

[@christines1924]

This was excellent....and I studied electronics!! I'm a little bit overwhelmed but I'll sketch it out, figure it out and find where are the holes in my understanding.

[@DavidHBurkart]

Appreciate how easy you make this to understand

[@scottadamson890]

Thank you, your videos have helped in numerous projects we have taken on.

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thanks glad they help!

[@kimberlyr6]

Holy cow, thank you so much for this!! So easy to understand and very thoughtfully delivered.

[@edpeck645]

Thanks for the update, it makes sense now. Thanks again.

[@fellixx11]

Excellent work as always Jared. Most of what I know about these RV electrical systems I attribute to you. I even refer to your videos when talking with new RV owners I run into. Many thanks for what you do. It's a big help.

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thank you that's very kind.

[@brettgoodall5171]

Thank you very much for your reply. It is much appreciated.👍👍

[@rbdeuce01]

Great job explaining the electrical system in an RV! I learned a lot

[@kelleysexton4117]

Thank you for your easy to understand explanation of the electrical system. I learned so much of the basics that I had no clue about.

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thank you

[@johndias6614]

Very well done video. I'm on a Facebook RV repair group. I cringe at the questions asked about RV electrical systems and issues. I'm sharing this to the group in hopes it clears up some things.

[@HunterWinchester666]

G'day mate! Just wanted to give you a shout out all the way from Australia 🇳🇿 & say thanks for all the fantastic tutorials! Safe travels to you & the family✌️

[@shoerock1]

Thank you for your knowledge and experience. Ruth and I pick up our Tiffin 37AP on April 21 and electric is an area that we want the dealer to spend a lot of time with us. Thanks again!!

[@AllAboutRVs]

How exciting!

[@patriciagaroutte978]

That was a ton of information but you explained it extremely well and it all makes sense. Thanks

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thank you.

[@ronkirby1362]

Thank you for all your videos, they are really helpful.Rv electrical can be very confusing.We just purchased a coachmen 27qb class c motor home and got a surge protector after watching your video.

[@AllAboutRVs]

That's great!

[@janreneashman1915]

Another great video to help explain the complexity of RV electrical systems

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thanks

[@markjohnson5618]

Another informative video Jerad. Really enjoy what you put out keep up the good work!.

[@danp4898]

Great video - informative as always! Thanks - keep 'em coming!

[@pierreblanchard3340]

You are an excellent teacher. Glad I found your site.

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thanks

[@garylovio1180]

Excellent information. Thank you!

[@jjgionet1735]

Awesome video, very well presented. Great job

[@markaustin4370]

Always great videos!! Very helpful

[@wegonerving2931]

Great video and very comprehensive explanation. This was very helpful to this newbie.

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thanks.

[@rarsa69]

This was superbly explained. I just got a van ready for "Camper conversion" it has all the electrical components. They were originally installed professionally but some of them are now disconnected. I am trying to figure out how things work as I want to relocate the cables and components. Unfortunately the seller had no idea how it works. With this videos (and searching the manuals for each of the components) I will try to make sense of it all. At least now I know the names and functions of the components :) and I can start making the diagram of the "how it should be" and match it with how it is. In case I get lost, anyone knows what kind of electrician/Mechanic can help me make sense of the system? Having a diagram will help me lots.

[@JBMotorrad]

Excellent presentation!

[@timbaxley383]

great content, always look forward to learning something new on your channel. 🙂

[@donitaarender7839]

Very helpful. Thanks for sharing

[@bptraveler6608]

Another good device like the Huges Autoformer that insures your not getting low voltage from the power pedestal.

[@AllAboutRVs]

We dive in to the Autoformer and our thoughts on them in our EMS Surge protector video just because some RV Parks won't allow them. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sF6khYKoZ5qirtU

[@WeekendRVing]

A lot of great info thank you for this info it will help us

[@Fullboomersrver]

Great video! Keep them coming.

[@usalogicalthinker]

Jerad, I think of my Class A motor home as having 4 electrical systems: 1) Chassis 12 VDC, 2) House 12 VDC, 3) Inverter 120 VAC, and 4) Shore/Generator 120 VAC. There are appliances that only operate on one of these 4 different systems. (I have a 2008 Tiffin Phaeton.) Examples: The Chassis 12 VDC (#1) powers the cockpit radio, the dash fans, and the passenger seat's electric recliner. The House 12 VDC (#2) powers the lights, water pump, propane heater fans, slides, vent fans, etc. The Inverter (#3) powers the compressor fridge, microwave, 120 VAC outlets, and a myriad of other plug-in appliances. The Shore/Generator (#4) power source is required to power the A/C units, washer/dryer, and electric water heater element. I would assume that most motor homes have similar systems to mine.

[@williamfry6087]

Nice inset diagrams, thanks.

[@drs3055]

YOU NEVER HAVE HAD THIS QUESTION BEFORE! We are long time subscribers. I have watched this KZbin many times. I just bought the Champion 2500 duel fuel generator you highlighted in another video. Do I need to hook up a surge or EMS between my generator and RV? Thank you. Stay young and keep sharing and teaching!

[@rolandmousaa3110]

Thanks again for the Ed.. on RV's..

[@jsteele42378]

Great video I really enjoyed it and learn so much. I do have some questions like , If a battery does not need to drop 50 if its total power, or you can damage the batteries. I had a friend that had 12 volt batteries he told me that he used them until the voltage came down to 6vdc . He then had the dc charger to start charging the batteries back to 13.6 Vdc. His batteries only lasted a could of months then they they were bad. I informed him that 50% of a battery is around 12.2 vdc. The reason is the current of the batteries drops so low that if you kept using battery power you will shorten the life of most batteries. Why do they not connect batteries that the battery bank voltage would be 48vdc ? Each time the inverter has to step the up the voltage their is power loss. Example 12vdc to 24vdc, and 24vdc to 48vde. Here you have a lost of power three times. Just a couple of things that popped up in my head. I'm trying to understand. Is it true that Lifepo4 can be discharged to 0vdc and will not hurt the batteries. Most of these type batteries have a 11 year warranty. It has been stated that these type of batteries can last 4 times longer than other type batteries ? I believe if you could run everything of this DCV. You would not need an inverter what so ever. The battery pack could be arranged that the need for AC power you would not need ? Just something to think about ? Call me crazy ! !

[@quincymcguire287]

How could anybody dislike this vid! He nailed it on this topic!

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thank you

[@guitarweirdo1]

Great video, thank you

[@scottsheets2325]

love this site, very handy

[@lauravictorious4670]

I'll still need to watch this again to understand and probably have someone walk me through it in my rig.

[@garryhammond3117]

Great Vid!! - Thanks!

[@brianreilly6545]

Learn a ton. Much thanks!

[@rogercaouette6248]

GREAT HELP. THANKS

[@Mudford63]

Great info!

[@SunflowerGirlRV]

I needed this .. Im new at this

[@xamitz58]

This is truly the only channel where I’m blown away from how great the explanations are. Also one of the few guys that I’m like - hey I could hang out with that guy!

[@upnorthFPVandEUC]

Thank you for this.

[@iscaballero2471]

Enjoyed your video...Thank You...

[@kristinsterkenburg911]

Great video! Thank you!!

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thanks.

[@BreakingWavesNews]

This has been so very helpful.

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thank you

[@sanddollar-ray9125]

thank you great video

[@slappadabass3290]

Just started watching your videos since I just purchased my first camper. Appreciate the tips! One minor correction to your video is 240v is still considered single phase. It is 2 phases but is still not called 2 phase or split phase. It’s just single phase

[@MrSummitville]

The 50 Amp 240 V AC outlet is Single Phase and it is Split-Phase, not 2-Phase ..

[@Sleeperdude]

Great video

[@es2709]

Good stuff!

[@FifthWheelinFoodandFixin]

Thanks for this...In over 15 years of owning RV’s we have never had bad shore power, and tbh I never gave it any thought until watching a few of your videos. Suffice to say it seems we have been very lucky. I’m having a lot of problems researching them (50 A) because every one seems to have a totally mixed bag of reviews and horror stories (Including your Hughes) so I’m really at an impasse as to which one to buy).

[@22howards]

Fifth Wheelin' Food and Fixin', we have a progressive industry unit and had nothing but good luck. This was after the 2 Cheapo units sold at the big box camping centers. We looked at space craft and New horizons and they come standard with progressive industry EMS units. A little more expensive but you get what you pay for. Jared uses a unit to check power at the pedestal. I turn off main power to the coach then look to see if there is a problem due to mine being a hard wire unit. Just an opinion.

[@SpykersB]

This is how i looked at it, when we had our small Travel trailers, we didn’t have an external or hardwired surge protector, we were a bit in the dark, and like you we were lucky, never had an issue. Then when we paid 5x more for a big rig on 50amp, all i knew is gotta get on this! i needed one now before picking up that new rig, so being i couldn’t decide on what hardwire one to get, I decided on any external one that had all the basic safety features all the other external 50amp brand ones had, found a camco brand 2/3 the cost of the others. It will do, at least i have one, and it has actually been pretty darn good so far. Does the same things as the others. Also i kept in mind that if your surge saves your rig from some issue, your surge is toast. So how much to spend, how fast i could get it were factors for me when i was looking for one. Now many months have gone by, i think about do i even want to deal with the hassle of a hardwire one, installing, then what if it gets fried? how easy is it gonna be to remove? replace? Things yet to think about. Cheers 🍻

[@AllAboutRVs]

I haven't had any problems with ours, like Chip Saunders we have the hardwired Progressive Industries and have loved it. I called with a couple of questions a few months ago of me adding a bypass switch and they were very helpful. I would recommend them.

[@stevemacedo771]

Great video as usual. Always helpful and informative. Could you expand upon how you charge your battery from the alternator as your driving in a future video if you have not already covered it. Thanks !

[@AllAboutRVs]

I'll add that to my list of videos.

[@UtwoBed]

Thank you!

[@kenwiltshire7834]

Thanks very much.

[@jamesbentrod6124]

Thank you! I’m new to motorized RV . I read about my isolator but had no idea what it did. Now I know. You explain complex things in an easy to understand manner. How about a video on keeping the chassis battery on a motorized RV charged and the options available.

[@GoTogetherGoFar]

Very helpful video! I'll need this for a few projects this spring. I'll post a video when I do them.

[@AllAboutRVs]

Glad it's helping.

[@mdbixenman]

Can you explain when plugged into shore power, does running furnace or 12v equipment totally bypass the batteries and run off the converter? Or do they run off the battery and the converter is just provider a constant charge?

[@patheticprepper4496]

Ensure emc device.. looking into. Thank u

[@gerrymurphy9524]

Benn watching your vids and love them. I want to install an AiLi battery monitor on my Rockwood Afram,e and trying to figure out how to mount the shunt with dual 100 AH AGMs on the outside of the camper in battery boxes. This is only our 2nd year with our first camper.

[@miltonsharpe1339]

I replayed hoping you showed and pointed out in a picture what the battery monitor looked like and where it is mounted in the RV.

[@tjshine7444]

The new Ford SD trucks are isolated as well. When the truck is running it charges the trailer batteries but when the truck is off it does not scavenge off the truck batteries.

[@garyag45]

Nice video very helpful 😎👍🇺🇸🦅

[@timf6916]

Nice information

[@choimdachoim9491]

Just this week I replaced a 30 pound converter in my 30 year old class A with a converter that weighs maybe 4 pounds and does much more for my house-batteries and D.C. system than convert A.C. The old one hummed 24 hours a day, the new one is silent. I think that old converter ruined my 2 new lead-acid house-batteries in less than 2 years. I also discovered that my AGM starter battery had been hooked to a non-AGM trickle charger and maybe that's why that Optima battery only lasted 2 years. I started on this voyage of discovery when I was cleaning terminals and found that there were 8 "short stop" switches, heat-sensitive switches fed by the converter and the one coming from the converter was defective. That was why my radio, tank-monitors, battery-readers, lpg alarm, water pump, captain's chair controls and under-cabinet lights weren't functioning. And, that's probably how I was able to purchase this motor home at such an unbelievable price. By replacing a $3.50 switch, everything functions correctly. Pure luck.

[@AllAboutRVs]

That's great!

[@thill822]

Referencing the battery disconnect during storage to save the battery from draining. If you engage the disconnect, does the battery still have the ability of being charged if you are plugged into shore power or does the disconnect totally isolate the battery completely? Thank you very much, awesome video.

[@tedhicks5431]

Helped alot bout what runs on ac and what runs on DC i was hit by lightning now have no air conditioning and converter has burning smell i have some work to do.

[@victorsmith4623]

I plan on using a 21 Jayco Bungalow (50amp electrical plug in) as a permanent residence for about 5 years at a house. I will have a 50amp plug in installed with a 30 Amp and 20 Amp at the house. That being said, do I have to have batteries to run the Bungalow if it will be permanently plugged in? Or do the converters need batteries to send the power to DC related systems? Thank you and stay safe, Your channel is amazing.

[@tonyrodgers6730]

Hey Jared! Enjoy your helpful episodes. Our new travel trailer has only 2 USB ports supported by our 12V system. NO electrical outlets are supported by the 12V system. Can I dedicate one or two plugs to be 12V (or both 12V and generator/shore power)?

[@samhummelstein4851]

Thanks for your very easy to follow videos. My question has to do with a class A when the house battery disconnect switch is in the off position during storage. Will connecting the RV to shore power keep the house and chassis batteries charged? Specifically on a 30 amp system will a standard 120v 15 or 20 amp circuit provide adequate power for the converter to keep batteries charged?

[@b4aftermatch257]

thanks for the infor,

[@AllAboutRVs]

Glad it helped

[@thoughraw]

The RV from where you're talking is so huge, no stealth camping in that one!

[@amyjarman528]

Wow so much info😊 do u do this for a living or for fun❤️

[@jmbisaccia]

Jared, I’m late to the party but thanks for this great info! I have a AC/propane fridge in my rig. I like to travel with the propane off. Is there a way to have the fridge stay powered/cooling on the alternator while on the road? Do I need to replace the unit with a 12v DC model? Thanks again John

[@HaroldMalaby]

Excellent with good communication and visuals

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thank you

[@chrisgranger256]

Hey Jared, what kind of frig to you guys have? This really should be on you solar video. We're looking at ordering a new RV and can't decide between the residential fridge or the 2-way RV fridge. We plan to do a lot of boondocking.

[@playinatlife5778]

Thanks for answering the alternator question. I was wondering about that when you have solar and lithium batteries installed. I'm assuming that means you are also able to use the switch (sorry I don't know the name of it) that bridges the house and engine batteries to start the engine should your engine battery lose it's charge.

[@TreeLBollingTreeMan]

As a general rule you don't want to use Deep Cycle LiFePo4 to start engines. LiFePO4 batteries themselves come in two distinct types as determined by cell type: Deep Cycle LiFePO4: essentially the distinction boils down to the amount of lithium present in each cell and the intended application which in this case is to power electronics for long periods of time. This type is designed with capacity in mind and at its heart stores lots of power in a very small package and as such has more lithium per cell. A deep cycle battery of this chemistry will not be able to crank your engine. High Rate LiFePO4: these are for starting motors only, the difference being that this type has dramatically lower lithium content per cell. However, the lower lithium quantity is not an issue because by design this type is only intended to output large bursts of energy for a short amount of time. As such, this type does not need that much lithium. While this type can be mistakenly used for a deep cycle application, doing so incurs significant risk as the high current rating has a high likelihood of damaging your load. These batteries are easy to identify because they have two distinct characteristics: A) a Lead Acid Equivalent Figure and B) have a CCA (Cold Cranking Amp) Rating. These two types are not to be confused or interchanged. While a High Rate will be able to power electronics, it will only do so momentarily as they by design do not have the storage capacity needed for extended use. Moreover, the high current ceiling will not mitigate current spikes the occurrence of which will damage your equipment. If you are powering equipment, you require Deep Cycle Batteries. If you are starting motors or powering your flash on your camera, the High Rate is the one for you. Remember the following rule of thumb: Deep cycle/deep discharge and high rate/starter are two different batteries even if they are from the same chemistry. This holds true for all battery types, even Lead Acid/SLA/GEL/AGM. A battery is either for deep cycle or for starting, never both despite any claims which may be made so make sure to double check your application and confirm your requirements before purchase. www.bioennopower.com/pages/faq-lifepo4-batteries .

[@BigMoose291]

I plan on pulling my batteries out for the winter and put them on a trickle charger in the garage, as the trailer is in a storage yard with winters that can hit -30C here in Calgary. When visiting the trailer, can I plug my 2000w genset into "shore power " and have the 12v side work?

[@mitchelldebord179]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us. you are able to explain complex systems in laymen terms. If I have a specific question how can I communicate with you ?

[@AllAboutRVs]

Thank you. Here is my email address [e-mail].

[@guenther1]

I'm only at 4:45 so maybe you mention this later but I think I am correct in saying you don't want to go up (i.e., use dog legs) in amperage (e.g., plug a 30A RV into a 50A service)?

[@kc9bpo]

Hey Jared. First I love you videos. I learn so much about everything. Keep up the good work. Now for my questions. Lol. You have a either a 20 or 25 amp busbar on your Amazon page. Why not higher? I'm looking to add busbars to my small travel trailer for both positive and negative sides. Trailer is 30a. Should these work or would you suggest something else?

[@AllAboutRVs]

Great question. The 30 amp RV refers to the AC side and a busbar we have linked is for the DC Side. For our install we made a busbar out of copper bar but I would recommend one like this. amzn.to/2wEur90. We didn't use a busbar between the batteries and the Inverter because that has 4/0 wire and a 400 amp fuse. We did use a buss bar for all other connections on the DC side.

[@MrErViLi]

Do you have a video on wiring that 50 / 30 / 20 RV panel you showed in this video? Thats what I want to install.

[@brisonpalmer6730]

Question if you are connected to shore power can switch off the batteries with a disconnect and still power all the slides and landing gear?

[@lonmar44]

I got a question for you on the victron charger converter charger which one do recommend for my 30 amp travel trailer But I want to run my AC sometimes

[@jimperdue6166]

Where did you mount your battery monitor and how often do you check it? What does it look like? (battery monitor)

[@raul4377]

I just recently got a 1993 Fleetwood Bounder Double Axle, and everything was working fine, three days ago the batteries went dead so I took a closer look at the hood, and noticed the battery connections, the hood has 3 batteries, two deep cycle and one start battery(note theres two solar cells on the roof wired to one of the cabin batteries) but im not sure how its all wired. I know the motor only needs one 12v start battery and the cabin needs 2 or more deep cycle batteries and im aware that the solar cells need a storage battery. If someone that can help would be great! Checking in from south south texas!

[@khankhattak.]

Spit ac vs rooftop ac considering both have same btu, which will you choose and which is more efficient?

[@browneyedgirl5127]

Need a video of how the inverter works and how to know it’s working correctly,

[@edeitelman1109]

I know this vid is 2yrs old but I’m hoping you’ll still see this. I’ve been going through your electrical vids (your vids are great by the way, I learn and use them a lot). Anyway, I have a question. I’m looking to at some point upgrade my 50amp class a Rv electrical to lithium and possibly solar. I think I have most of my questions answered from your vids but I have concerns about the switch over. In particular, my class a has a battery boost to start the engine should the engine batteries fail or lose charge. I’ve been researching and understand that you’re not supposed to use lithium to start an engine because the spike required of the batteries is too much for the lithium batteries. So if I switch my house batteries to lithium would I in affect lose the battery boost option for the engine? Thanks for responding if you see this

[@richardkeith7996]

Great video, quick question. Just for clarity in my mind. About 12 minutes into the video you mention removing everything from the negative side of the battery and putting "everything " on a busbar. Is there any chance you meant to say "you removed everything from the ""positive"" side of the battery" and put it on the busbar?