Electric Stove Heat Switch - Testing & Replacement | Repair & Replace

[@AmreSupply]

Did this video help you fix your stove? Did you run into any problems? Let us know in the comments!

[@williamrhea3535]

Thank you, you just helped save me over 800 dollars for an entire stove when I only need to replace the heat control switch.

[@AmreSupply]

@@williamrhea3535 You're welcome! We're always happy to hear when we've helped people repair an appliance rather than taking it to a dump and buying a new one!

[@AmreSupply]

@@redfishcrawfish3647 We're just glad to help!

[@bharatlalchohan5367]

Parts for 4 plate electric switch wiring Kenmore Where are you locklowed ​@@AmreSupply

[@bharatlalchohan5367]

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[@samj1012]

Amre supply is best videos on troubleshooting. Their parts sales store also offers best service, experienced staff who understand what parts needed and price matching. Thumbs up.

[@AmreSupply]

Thank you for your kind words! We're just happy to help both here on KZbin and in store as well! Cheers

[@lorettahornby4745]

Hi Vance, My son & I have enjoyed watching your videos while trying to diagnose a problem with our Kenmore range. The two large burners were intermittently getting stuck in a high heat setting even after turning the dial to a lower setting. We ran through all your suggested switch, wiring and element testing and confirmed everything tested fine. When there was no sign of shorting (soot) on the burner receptacle connection, we were left with trying a new switch to see if that resolved the problem. As soon as we removed the old large-burner switches, noticed soot on the top of and inside the switch; there was no soot on the switches for the small burners which were working fine. There must have been some kind of shorting happening in there but we missed seeing that when testing the switch. The new switch resolved the problem. You might want to add this check for shorting, if that's what was happening, to your video on switch testing. Had we noticed it at that stage we would probably not had to check for a wiring or burner problem. Regardless, you saved us from a bigger repair bill and allowed us some much appreciated mother/son bonding time.

[@AmreSupply]

HI Loretta, thank you for sharing your experience! We're just glad that the video helped you and your son repair your stove. We didn't want to add to much length to this video so we made a specific video to troubleshoot a burner that is stuck on high: kzbin.info/www/bejne/omScp4Kkndahnsk As well we made a more general troubleshooting video on the burner not heating which covers testing the switch, wires, and element: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZK6aKh3fdCDh6s We're never quite sure what terms people are going to search by we have tried to at least have some troubleshooting specific videos and other videos like this which shows the direct testing and replacement of a single part. Between that we've got a few videos covering most issues.

[@ruru9400]

I am so glad I came across this video! I have a burner that only works when it is in the high position. It is an electric range. I'm going to check this out and I have a feeling that it is a faulty switch after watching this video. What I really love is how everything was explained slowly and clearly with visuals. Thanks so much and I hope to have a good report once I diagnose this on the stove!

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome, we're glad that the format of this tutorial helped you understand the information! Keep us posted on how the fix is going.

[@azwb]

Your Part worked perfectly. Thanks for the excellent video. L1 to L1, H1 to H1. I was replacing the original switch which looked different.

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome! That's exactly why we explain the why/how as some models and some replacement parts might look different.

[@utubeuser85]

You just saved me from almost ripping out the wires of my old switch. Thank You!

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome, we're just happy to help!

[@maryellenwhite6241]

thanks for a good video. I am 67 yr old female and could have done this by myself but my son did help to be sure we replaced one for another. It was easy. We did encounter one problem.. The metal part that the knob attaches to was turned around and made everything upside down.. my son easily figured that out and we were done!

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome Maryellen, we're just glad that the video helped you out!

[@roninwaveman]

Great video, thanks for the clear and concise info.

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome, we're just happy to share some good information!

[@jirotaro1792]

I have a Whirl Pool Range with one dual element in which the "outer" portion works and the "inner" portion does not. When testing the Infinite switch for continuity are you to test the switch on "high" for the two settings "single" use of element and "full use of element. Thank You!

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. You are right that you'd set the switch to high for the dual setting so that you can test all of the terminals.

[@jirotaro1792]

@@AmreSupply Thanks for confirming!

[@AmreSupply]

@@jirotaro1792 You're welcome!

[@donotcallmesusan6856]

ALL of my burners are suddenly staying on even when the knob is off. Flipping the breaker resets the stove & it stays off until you turn on a burner. It seems unlikely that all 4 switches suddenly malfunctioned at the same time. Is there something else I should check? Is this a control board issue? Thanks for the helpful video.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching, we're glad you found the video helpful. If your stove has individual heat switches then it is very unlikely for all of the burners to have the same problem like that. It is more common in models that have a control board connected to all four burners, in this case replacing the control board would be best. If your model has individual heat switches like the ones in this video, then you could test for a short circuit. kzbin.info/www/bejne/omScp4Kkndahnsksi=yMdZr-0HazQbe_n-&t=209

[@jeanjacques9462]

Very clear demo 👍

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching, we're glad you found it helpful!

[@WesternEclectic]

Great video, thanks! I was able to fix it myself and save the cost of a service call.

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome!! We're just glad that the video helped you out!

[@javiertaboracastejon97]

Thanks for your content, I tried on mine, and testing between l1 and p, has continuity being off, the others that you check in the video didn't, I'm having this issue after cooking, a beam of light came out, burning the spiral of the stove and piercing the frying pan.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. Do you mean that you had an electrical arc out of one of the switches?

[@charisserempel23]

I rent and the stove is a very old harvest gold Admiral. The knob just spin around and the heat is stuck on high but the light works. Don’t have the testing equipment and I’m just hoping to replace the switch. Thing is I’ve no idea what the model is. Where/how can I find out what switch to buy?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. Most stove have switches that are similar but just with terminals in slightly different configuration. A single burner is more simple. If you take out the switch you can match abased on another switch that has the same terminals. There are universal switches as well that you'll have an adjustable stem length: www.amresupply.com/catalog/Switches-Infinite-Surface-Element-675690-AD1D

[@frederickwolf8413]

I did install the new switch, then I took the old switch apart to try to understand why it failed. Then I saw the calibration screw. This dual burner set switch lasts for about 10 years. Over the last 20 years I have had to replace the switch twice. The first time the burners would not work at all the second (this time) the burners stayed full on no matter the switch position. I suspect that the wear on the axel of the switch or the 2 cams may have created my full on issue. As an enginerd, I am going to record the on and off times for various settings for the new switch, and then make a setup to run the same wattage through the old switch and adjust the calibration screw to match the new switch so that in 10 more years I won't have to cough up even more money. Yes I see that I'll have to use an insulated allen key as the screw will be hot.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for sharing your experience and observations on this!

[@mikesepe2784]

Hi i just tested my burner and infinite switch. They tested ok as per your video but my burner still does not work. Is there anything else that I could test to isolate the problem? Thx

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. First make sure all the wire connections are secure. That can be an issue in many cases. If the element and infinite switch both are good based on isolated tests, then it could be an issue with the wires. You can test the element and wires through the back. You should get the same resistance as during your isolated element test: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZK6aKh3fdCDh6s If there is no resistance in the combined test then you might need to replace a segment of the wire (if there are any burn marks or a pinched or broken segment). If the wires between the heat switch and burner are good, then you can test the wires that feed the heat switch: In this case you'll test between the terminal block and the heat switch wires. This is somewhat shown here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYvaqZito5eqapY

[@TheLeckerlink]

I have a GE Triple Radiant Element 12" (part WG02F02055). The outside and inside rings heat but the middle ring does not. I replaced the burner but the same problem occurred. Does this mean that the only other cause of the problem would be a defective infinite switch?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. Sorry for the delayed response, sometimes the notifications don't show when new comments are added. If you've replaced the element then you can test the element and wires together through the back as shown in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZK6aKh3fdCDh6s If there is continuity when testing the wires, then it's likely a faulty infinite switch. If you triple burner also has a separate toggle switch (for the 3rd ring) then this can also be tested for continuity as it will either be on or off.

[@angrylefty7953]

I have a Kenmore with a simmer select and power element on the front left side The simmer select board burnt out so I replaced but now neither the simmer select or the power element works checked it all out and still nothing

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. If your model uses a board to control the simmer function, and that was replaced, It might be helpful to check the surface element for continuity. If there was a power surge that damaged the element, this can often damage the board as well. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZK6aKh3fdCDh6s

[@angrylefty7953]

@@AmreSupply I did and I’m going to replace the burner infinity switch because it was a little dark but I did check that to for continuity and it said that was ok and I also checked the element and got a good reading

[@AmreSupply]

@@angrylefty7953 Best to check all the connections to make sure that they have good contact. As well you can test the element and wires together through the back to doublecheck that the wires are good: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fZK6aKh3fdCDh6s

[@angrylefty7953]

@@AmreSupply I’m going to see if the control fixes it and I did check them before I removed controller thank you for all your help

[@AmreSupply]

@@angrylefty7953 You're welcome! Best of luck to you.

[@ben_bash]

Hello, AMRE. I have a stove with a bad WPW10169580 switch. The heat is staying on high only. The replacement is crazy expensive. I was wondering if a dual burner would work for this but disable the 3rd burner? Do you know of a good option to replace this for under $80?

[@AmreSupply]

Hi Ben, thank you for watching. The part you are looking for has an extra heat terminal, an H3 for the 3rd burner. If your burner is a dual burner, then check what wires are going to your existing switch on each terminal. By not connecting anything to the 3rd burner you should be able to use a switch like this: www.amresupply.com/part/15419594 The terminals might be in a slightly different position so if you have a hard plastic connector, you might need to break the plastic to separate the connectors so that they can go in a new position.

[@AJ-xe2ih]

Excellent video. I called store to buy a switch for GE even though they are all almost the same one or two manufacturers they quoted me for dual element control switch $248 cdn, typically highway robbery I took a switch apart and the contact get tired sometimes if you use it too much which we are. So basically I bend them back in their previous shape 4 and 4a and the switch works as before. If nothing is broken this could be your fix. Hope it helps.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching, we're glad that it was helpful! The prices on some parts depends on the availability, so there is some variation. In any case there are some generic parts that can still work with any model if it has the same terminals. The metal inside the switch does fatigue over time, so your fix is one way to help if the rest of the switch and terminals still has continuity..

[@wardad5628]

I made the mistake of not taking a picture of the wires hooked to the old switch. How do I determine which wire goes to H1 and which to H2, they are the same color?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. The colors will differ between models so there's not a single standard. Your stove should have similar switches that are fed by the same wires. If you're able to identify which wire is line 1 and which wire is line 2 for the other switches then just apply that to the new switch. As well the P terminal or the indicator light will likely be a different color and you should be able to see one wire branch between all switches and the indicator light. Technically speaking if you reference the diagram shown in this video, the switch should still work even if L1 and L2 are swapped or H1 and H2 are swapped. As long as the P connection is correct.

[@mikehoncho5884]

So multiple videos on this subject say a faulty switch can cause the element to stay on high with no adjustment but none of the multi meter testing refers to this situation. I would think that you would have continuity between L2 & H2 if it only worked on high with no change in Ohms as you rotate the control knob if it worked as designed you would see the Ohms reading go up or down as you rotate the knob. Am I correct in my though process on this? A demonstration of a functional control knob reading Ohms between L2 & H2 would help as well. Thanks for the video.

[@AmreSupply]

Hi Mike thank you for watching. That is a good question! The infinite heat switch is difficult to test. It has several pieces of metal inside. When current passes through the switch, the metal heats up and the metal bends slightly to disconnect power to the circuit. So if you're testing a switch that is disconnected from power, you can't determine how it will function when current passes through it. Setting it to the low setting will show continuity at rest, (it just means it will take less bending to disconnect the circuit, which means the burner will stay on for a shorter period of time). Setting the switch to a high setting will still show continuity. The resistance value will not change. Also keep in mind that over the lifespan of the stove, the metal inside the heat switch can warp or get fatigued, or the contacts can stick together. If this is occurring the switch may still have continuity. The switch however can be tested to see if the contacts are not closing, but that is not useful in this scenario when the burner stays on as we know it has continuity. Keep in mind that a shorted element can also cause the burner to stay on high, this is covered in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/omScp4Kkndahnsk

[@AmreSupply]

Also one more point. The infinite heat switch is *not* a variable resistor, rheostat or a potentiometer. The ohms will stay between 0 and 1 on any setting.

[@raineydaygirl5970]

What if some have high numbers flashing? Confusing. Not sure where to set meter; I have it on the 200 on ohm side. What you call 4A gives high numbers & mine is labelled PILOT. My GE PROFILE Range is turning the back small element on by itself (warm with light)-who knows how long since 2007? I never use this element. Test: Dial on max- P2/4 flashing over 1…into double digits. Same with P2/PILOT (in your 4 location)…I see some decimals but it’s all over the place. Do I believe it’s Ok & test the other knob switch which controls 2 parts of the 3-part burner?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. If sounds like your multimeter is not auto-ranging. You set it to the 200 ohms which will detect readings up to 200 ohms. A heat switch simply creates a path for electricity to flow through. The resistance should be between 0 and 1 ohm (0 meaning an unrestricted path). If the resistance is outside of the range then the switch is likely faulty and should be replaced. A buildup of carbon on the electrical contacts can also affect the resistance. Keep in mind that if the terminals are dirty or if you do not make good contact with the multimeter probes, this can affect the reading and can throw the numbers off. You can clean the terminals with steel wool if needed. As for the back element, that heat switch is likely faulty if it's turning it on when it is not supposed to be. Best to replace that heat switch.

[@10zico10]

Will the switch light be on even the infinite switch is bad? I have a burnt receptacle, got it replaced, but the ring still doesn't heat up. My next guess would be the infinite switch, but the switch light is on when turned. Thanks.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. Yes as seen at 1:49 in this video, if one set of contacts doesn't close properly then the element won't heat. It is possible for the contacts to have continuity between L1 and P (which powers the indicator light), as well as L1 and H1 while having no continuity between L2 and H2. Test the switch first to see if you have continuity when the dial is turned on. If the switch is good, then it would be best to test the wires, receptacle and the heating element all together through the back of the oven. This can be seen at this point in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f2jMY2iMhcxgqK8 Hope this helps!

[@10zico10]

@@AmreSupply Thank you so much.

[@AmreSupply]

@@10zico10 You're welcome, we're just happy to help!

[@10zico10]

@@AmreSupply I went to buy the switch according to the diagram from the AMRE's web site, I am afraid there is a mistake on that diagram as the switch I needed was for the 8" coil, but the item# shown on the diagram was the 6" one. No wonder my mom said the heat on that 8" coil has not been fully heat up. I should have gone by the part name, and not by the number shown on that diagram. I hope there is no danger to use before I replace with the right switch. Here is the link - www.amresupply.com/lookup/225294/1529353#diagram I needed the 8" coil switch on the left, but the diagram shows "F54", which should actually be "F54A". Thanks again.

[@AmreSupply]

@@10zico10 Thank you for letting us know! Without feedback its hard to fix these sorts of glitches. This happens when old models part numbers get substituted for newer parts. As those switches are rated for different wattage and amperage, its still best to install the switch designed for the 8 inch elements. If it was only used briefly it likely didn't damage it but it can be hard to tell.

[@superdobette]

I think I might have the same problem but after I heard it pop it worked again after. I switch from the bigger burner to the small one to quickly and heard a loud pop, I figured it might have been a breaker or something but quickly realise with the videos that it's probably the heat switch. But for the life in me why the heck is it still working fine????? I must have blown something up by switching the knob from one side to the other. Did it arc back there I didn't see any flash just the loud pop. My stove is a Samsung model NE595R0ABSR ceramic top

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. These heat switches use small pieces of metal. As current travels through the metal, it heats up slightly and bends away from the contacts. This metal can warp over time. As well you might be hearing an arc between the contacts. In this case it might be best to install a new heat switch. If you are curious, you can see the inside of the switch here: kzbin.infoURFjJPQycsk

[@felipacadavis6982]

How to move around the faucet

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. We have a playlist on faucet repairs: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q2rRZ3yQl9d0i8U&pp=gAQBiAQB

[@muhammadtahirsiddiqui8347]

Nice demo.👍

[@AmreSupply]

Thank you Muhammad!

[@thezeta]

Only video I found so far testing the Ego switch. P1 P2 2 4 6:30

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching! We did notice that other videos skipped over some details so we tried to cover each of the variations between the switches and the terminal labels.

[@raineydaygirl5970]

Did you get high numbers testing P2/4 & P2/PILOT? Double digits but decimals & 1 during the test? My back burner is turning ON by itself (warm with light on stovetop). Terrifying; I never use that burner since 2007! Not sure if the first knob needs testing; it controls 2/3 of that burner set -just fine. Puzzling. (Wish I could just “cap/tape up” the bad wires & use the burners I actually need). Don’t know what to do. I can turn light off only by rotating knob fully clockwise back to OFF; Seconds later; burner warm & light glowing. So mine is when NOT in use; could’ve burned down my house had it been high heat!

[@weirdonerdfreak]

What if the resistance is more than 1 Ohm?

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. 0 to 1 ohm means there's an unrestricted path. Dirty terminals might increase this a bit, but the resistance shouldn't be very high. For example a heating element has resistance of 20 or more ohms depending on the wattage.

[@timothygraves1531]

The only difference on the finishing up part is to test the stove before placing it back into place.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. Yes that is a good point, the cord does have some reach to it so it can be tested before sliding it back into place.

[@brianperkins6121]

There is important layer when instaling infinite stove burrner switches , that can catch people off guard and cause a direct short circut , its not an issue if you are using a OEM exact model replacement switch. and transfer the wires to the exactly same termnals on the new switch , Electric stove switches on each side of the stove Share a "unit on" indicater pilot light , so that lamp uses a shared connection that is wired to the pilot termnal on "both" switches ,, The pilot lamp (The cook top indicater in your example) Termnal (The purple wire in your example) is connected to the "L1 phase" of the supply power coming into the switch , (this L1 phase relationship for both switches is very important !) and is energized anytime the infinite switch is switched on . if the exact orignal switch is no longer available many parts suppliers will be told to substute a compatible universal infinite switch , its termnals may not be in the exact same locations as the orignals , Its important that you do not get the L1 and L2 connections crossed betwean the two switches , its important to look at the power input termnals of the new switch and ensure you connect the same power phase to the physical L1 input termnials on "both switches" so that "both switches are wired in the same same phase relationship". If the L2 phase gets wired to L1 on your new switch , you will end up (In the united states anyway) with a direct 240 volt short betwean the two pilot lamp termnals if both burners are switched on at the same time. Because the pilot lamp circut would then be connecting phase "L1 and Phase L2" directly together. Trust me you dont want to do that.

[@AmreSupply]

Those are some excellent points and is exactly why we try to show the importance of matching based on the terminal numbers rather than just color of wire or position.

[@roninwaveman]

Brother thanks for this info. I had to order a new switch for a frigidaire and I was sent a universal switch substitute. The way the substitute switch was marked wasn't the same and because of this I wired it up wrong and it was causing the breaker to kick out. After I read this I figured out the problem. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.

[@johnrobi34119]

Appreciate the info,,,BIG help!

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome, John! We're glad that you found the video useful!

[@frederickwolf8413]

Replace the switch? My burner was always on high, no matter the knob position. I just did replace the old switch and then took the it switch apart and found that there is an adjustment screw for the bimetallic element in the switch which will adjust the switch to make it work properly. The new switch with shipping was $95.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. The bimetallic strip can fatigue and warp over time. Adjusting the screw can help but sometimes it will change how the switch will heat at each setting. If you are unable to return the original, having a new switch to install in that burner or another burner could still be helpful as these can wear down over time.

[@fucklivinganymore6618]

So I swapped switches and elements and it still stays on

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. What stays on? Does the burner stay on? The cooktop power light? Or the hot surface light?

[@saral161]

Thanks

[@AmreSupply]

You're welcome!

[@brianclaxtondrums]

My switch seems to be working fine...except it is reversed. High feeds a low setting, low feeds the high setting. I checked multiple times and the switch is lined up properly, and I even tried switching the lines to the burner, cant find any info why the burner switch would operate reversed.

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching. That doesn't seem like a common problem. Is that the original switch in your stove? Do all of your switches work in reverse or only one?

[@brianclaxtondrums]

@@AmreSupply It's just the one, it seems like the original from what I can tell. That burner was in-operable when we moved into the house and I just replaced the receptacle today and now it works but reversed, again only the one. I checked to see that all the switches matched up the same, and they are. It just seems like the one switch is flipped!

[@AmreSupply]

@@brianclaxtondrums Seems like the switch is faulty then. It is unusual for the high and low settings to be reversed. Inside of the switch there is a piece of metal that bends. Turning the switch will shift how far the metal needs to bend to disconeect the circuit. You can see the inside of the switch here: kzbin.infoURFjJPQycsk Might be best to install a new switch.

[@brianclaxtondrums]

@@AmreSupply Will do, thank you so much for the help!

[@AmreSupply]

@@brianclaxtondrums You're welcome, we're just happy to help!

[@jaykayaye5260]

So, uh... I guess it wasn’t INFINITE, now, was it?

[@AmreSupply]

The heat is finite now that it has failed haha The infinite actually refers to the fact that the switch has an infinite amount of settings. Since it uses two bi metallic strips, turning the dial just changes how far the strips have to bend before disconnecting the circuit: if you're curious you can see the inside of the switch here: kzbin.infoURFjJPQycsk

[@ВасилийБичуков-р1и]

!!!!!

[@AmreSupply]

Thanks for watching.