Teardown Tuesday Episode 15: Infinite Switch Heat Control

Jack Kell of the SmartCare technical training group tears down an infinite switch, a type of heat control commonly found in commercial kitchen equipment.
This video is part of a larger series of technical training videos we make available to our technicians at SmartCare. If you found this interesting and would like to see more, please subscribe. New component teardown videos will be released every Tuesday in 2022.
If you’re a Smartcare technician who has a part you’d like to see me tear down, please reach out to me internally for further instructions.
If you’re not a smartcare technician but you or someone you know would like to learn more about a career as a service technician specializing in commercial restaurant equipment, please check out our open positions at www.SmartCareSolutions.com/careers.

[@joebishman6163]

This is a very good video. Thank you for your time. Please make more more content as you will find an audience.

[@danfield8102]

Exactly what I needed; you saved me from buying a 240v switch for a 120v application. I assumed like many switches, a higher voltage rating is fine. After watching I understand I would be seeing much more "on" time than anticipated. Awesome video, thanks for sharing!!

[@FriendlyFare]

Thanks so much for putting out this valuable information. I run a not-for-profit commercial rental kitchen facility and it is so important that we keep our rates low to help our clients build capital so they can move on to their own establishments. Part of the way we do this is to buy (or receive donation of) a lot of used equipment which often needs repair. I am no electrician, but I am a certified machinist as well as pastry chef and culinary consultant. If I can find a way to safely fabricate a repair, I will do it, otherwise it gets called into a proper service technician if it involves plumbing or wiring. This particular video has saved me $200 as it has shown me that the stem in the switch can be replaced with one I fabricate to match the existing stems rather than having to replace the entire switch, which is not faulty; the stem is just snapped off. I'm writing this just to make sure that, in the event I am wrong I am giving myself a buffer of time to check back here to see if anyone disagrees before I go ahead with my plan. Just as an FYI, I will be checking the material and rockwell hardness of the stem to ensure I use the correct metal to match the same heat dispersion as the existing stems, in case anyone was going to jump on that first. Other than that, I can't think of any reason why this won't work -and why they just don't sell replacement stems???

[@teevee186]

Because you can purchase the part for $5-$10

[@FriendlyFare]

@@teevee186 Woulda been great if that were the case. But where I live, no such luck. Can't buy the stem individually and the replacement switch for the model of stove I had was anywhere between $85-$165CDN plus shipping. But I was lucky enough to cannibalize the stem from another switch my appliance technician gave me and make it work. So the video was very helpful.

[@bharatlalchohan5367]

8:28 nice tips

[@volpe1970]

Great video. I was just browsing to find some info on infinite switches and I really appreciate your clear explanation. Thank you.

[@markmarkofkane8167]

I just replaced my second switch. It was making an arcing sound sometimes. First time the switch went bad, the heat would be too hot no matter what the control was set to. Replacement started arcing a year or 2 ago. (Saw a little soot behind the knob). It worked, it just made an arcing sound when the contacts touched or broke. Great video! I wondered how it worked exactly. Never had to replace infinite switches on 3 of the elements, and range is 17 years old. Just one element. And they all get about the same use.

[@davejohnsonnola1536]

Thanks for sharing these videos!

[@juliobaez5705]

Thank you for the video

[@glenmartin2437]

Thank you.

[@darrylsiemer5666]

Excellent!!

[@mpirokajosephmgcokoca2355]

Very informative 👋

[@lawrencelarrylewis2632]

Very...Very good.

[@techvideos1262]

Thanks! Glad you like them

[@lorenz681]

When these switches fail can the cause the temp to fluctuate from low to max heat over and over when the dial is set on medium? If not is it a bad or wrong element that would cause that? I'm also trying to find out why some elements are made for GE and Hotpoint and some for all other brands.

[@NathanThomson]

Super helpful video! Helped me fix my pottery kiln! Thanks

[@scottgoodhart2935]

I've been looking for a video like this forever!! I have been trying to find a replacement infinite switch for a "1314471 - QE214352 - 8.9-11.0A 250 VAC - 840321 Type B" that I've been told is NLA (no longer available). It has a long stem, and any replacements I've found all have stem/poles that are too short. Are poles interchangable? could I take the stem from the malfunctioning switch and put it in a generic replacement? Or are there any recomendations on a replacement switch for the model I've listed. (for a really old Whirlpool oven). Is there any way to "repair" faulty infinite switches? Thanks for your attention in advance.

[@esferados68]

Good afternoon.. I have that switch And I got a replacement should the same diagram....? Thank you in advance.

[@johnb5519]

I have a Jenn-Aire flat top with a dual burner control that has sockets for the wires to connect to it. It looks to me like there is a capacitor inside. Are you familiar with these. I suspect the control is defective, because the elements have continuity. I am not getting continuity to both L1 and L2. Just continuity to one of them, when I turn the switch on.

[@99kevin99]

There seems to be a "set screw". Can this be used to give "more life" if turned-in ?

[@techvideos1262]

No, the adjustment screw is set at the factory and locked. Infinite switches have a limited life and will eventually wear out, if one isn't working correctly it will need to be replaced.

[@99kevin99]

@@techvideos1262 Thank you. That is good to know for my future repairs.

[@ThePhilbox]

I have a switch where the burner just stays on regardless of the setting. Can this be repaired? ps. thanks for the info!

[@user-dg6gl1se9g]

Do the pilot switch need to be connected. I noticed it only has a plastic arm running to it with a metal connector to hold it in place. Unfortunately, a piece of the plastic arm is burnt so the metal connector is not really holding on. Do I need the pilot switch to be connected?

[@carlmercado2673]

I have one that is for a quartz heater presto the part number is INF-120-887B 15 amps but i can't find it anywhere is there another part number

[@ralphwaters8905]

Great video. One question I still have is in regard to the switch contacts on L1. Are there separate contacts for L1/H1 and L1/P? It seems that the L1/P contacts would have to be separate for the Pilot indicator to work correctly (for multiple burners). It also seems like a good idea for the L1/H1 contact to open when the control is OFF in case the L2/H2 contacts weld, so the burner can be turned off.

[@bobpaulino4714]

The 'P' terminal is not for passing current/ heating. The 'P' terminal is merely a pilot terminal, one on each switch, that sends power to an indicator lamp to let folks know that a surface burner switch is on.

[@GeorgeKirko]

what is a resistance of that wire, please

[@apriliatuono1003]

How can I ask question about this exact part

[@carlmercado2673]

What part number is that switch

[@esferados68]

It's a old kenmore

[@jefftrainer7128]

You should tear apart broiler valve stems

[@techvideos1262]

I think I have one in the parts pile, I'll take a look and see what I can do.

[@squirtinb]

Thanks!