Misty Sunrise - Complete Image Workflow from Capture to Editing

[@alexzhang9318]

Breath taking

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much

[@paulasimson4939]

This was an absolute masterclass in shooting and editing. Thanks Andy.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much Paula, glad you found it useful

[@80Demitri]

Fantastic....just fantastic!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much for the comment, glad you enjoyed the video

[@davidsinai3610]

As always, very well done! Thank you Andy

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much David

[@davidsinai3610]

Hi Andy - I just rewatched this video. I noticed that you leave the color profile on Adobe Color. Is that intentional? People love Fuji cameras because of the film simulations, but perhaps that's more for JPGs than it is for processing RAW files. Anyway, my question is do you use different profiles for different type of images or do you always keep it on Adobe Color?

[@lookforbeauty1964]

Gorgeous !!!

[@AndyMumford]

Thank you so much

[@Xo1ot1]

I didn't like the editing until the last minutes, then it all came together really nicely. Thanks for sharing.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment

[@imgj7479]

great tutorial andy can't believe it's free. ❤ the drone shot

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much Arpan, glad you found it useful

[@diegocarsalade6653]

Amazing!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you found it useful

[@martoverone77]

Fantastic video

[@AndyMumford]

Thankyou so much, glad you enjoyed it

[@Dandelion-32]

Thanks Andy. Stay safe. Sending good thoughts to you down there in Portugal.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment, stay safe yourself

[@parkerberryhilll]

Awesome. I’d love to see how you shoot and edit your drone footage.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, my drone footage grading is pretty simply really... I use Lumetri Color as an effect on an adjustment layer in Premiere Pro, and there are just tweaks to contrast (Highlights, Shadows, Blacks and Whites) and then some tweaks to the tone curve. That's about it

[@parkerberryhilll]

@@AndyMumford Wow, that's encouraging to know. Are you using ND's on your drone?

[@anakbaba1]

Thank you - always an education

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you found it useful

[@jerrykita8767]

Thanks Andy. Well explained.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment, glad you found it useful

[@debrab6165]

Thanks Andy, I have a misty image that has been difficult to process. But now with this informative tutorial, I am going to revisit my image and I will get the look I want. Thanks for your expertise.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, really glad you found the video useful. I hope it helps you get the best out of your image

[@Shaymangoh86]

This is amazing, horaaah.... super classic masterclass

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, really glad you found it useful

[@thijskennis8757]

Excelent video, thank you Andy!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much

[@claudeponchant5649]

Thank you Andy for your workflow 👌🏻and video

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment. Hope it was useful

[@petetasker8599]

Really interesting, thanks Andy.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed it

[@Axeman99L]

Perfect Picture and tutorial!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, really glad you found it useful

[@jean-christophenogues8520]

Quel endroit superbe!!!

[@AndyMumford]

Thank you 🙏

[@gematkinson_photos]

Hi Andy, Just wanted to say what a brilliant informative video this was - picked up lots of tips and definitely feeling inspired to give the photo merge feature a try. Thank you for such an excellent video 👍

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, really glad you found it useful and inspiring

[@javiergiral5754]

Many thanks! Excellent contents

[@AndyMumford]

No problem, happy you enjoyed it

[@odileguiller1925]

Thank You, Andy, for sharing your workflow. I enjoy seeing how you work on the light and shadow in the editing process.

[@AndyMumford]

Hi Odile. It's a pleasure, glad you found it useful and I hope you and Philip are well

[@lespaul8787]

Absolutely valuable. Thanks for the tips and walking us through how you do it. Very helpful!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment, glad it was useful

[@fixpoint]

Amazing video. I love the start to finish approach incorporating your thoughts on the capture all the way through to the edit. I appreciate how you frame the edit as the shaping of light and the explanation. This is one of the best videos I’ve seen in a long while.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much Pete, really glad you found the video useful

[@peterhewitson71]

Great video , I have been using the long lens more for landscapes after watching your videos . Thanks for the help

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, really glad you enjoyed the video

[@francofelipetorresseguel7956]

I’m you’re fan, this is really useful

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, I'm glad you enjoyed it

[@patrickjosephson]

Great video, I learned a lot. Appreciate you taking the time to share your process.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, really glad you found it useful

[@gandhirohit]

This was fascinating to watch Andy, thank you!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks much, glad you found it useful

[@daymonpearcey8468]

Fantastic image and great to see the workflow from start to finish, some amazing tips to take home for me here. Thank you for sharing.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you found it useful

[@AhmetElhann]

Learnt a different approach to editing. I have never dropped the dehaze slider that much before, but seeing that it adds great effect I will definitely try it out. Thank you so much.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you found it useful. The dehaze slider is great for brightening in a way that feels like natural light. Particularly in misty conditions like this

[@panaitescustefan]

Superb work Andy! Being a Fuji shooter too, and loving landscape phoography, this kind of videos are amazing! Looking forward to seeing many ,many more clips from you!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much for the comment Stefan, really glad you found the video useful

[@michaeldesselle7589]

I’m going to have to really brush up on Photoshop; that was amazing how you sculpted the light on the tree in the foreground.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you found it useful. Light shaping with the gradient tools is a really powerful way of creating mood in images

[@rws531]

Isn’t this Lightroom?

[@pauloviegasphotography]

Just with the first 5 secs you got me hooked :) well done. Edit: Still here after 20:28min. Amazing job!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed it and found it useful

[@j.srecio]

Awesome!!!!!!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed it

[@michaelgoulding4425]

Brilliant stuff and gorgeous final image. I have family in Moena up there in the Dolomites and hoping to get over in late summer / early autumn. If I can grab an image even half as nice as this it'll be a trip well spent. Cheers

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment, glad you found it useful. You'll enjoy it over there, it's beautiful.

[@paulalex1362]

Great video Andy... I find workflow videos to be incredibly useful - whether with the camera or editing. I like the use of the radial tool in PS, I might have to give that a go! Another brilliant video from one of my favourite locations.

[@AndyMumford]

Hi Paul, how's it going? Glad you got something interesting out of the video. My editing is generally pretty simple, and the radial tool trick works really well for enhancing light. Hope you're well

[@johnburrow4124]

Nicely done! I do a similar process with my Fuji! However, I learned something new about adding more atmosphere!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment, glad you found it useful. I try to keep my editing relatively simple, and using the radial filters and Dehaze for atmosphere will work on any image where there's direct light coming in.

[@johnburrow4124]

@@AndyMumford you are welcome! I try to keep my edits fairly low-key meaning if it isn’t there, I don’t add it in. Just enhance what it is there. You are doing that too, but you are doing it tastefully which I appreciate. But I need to work with the dehaze a bit more. Afraid of always overdoing it.

[@beinportugal9748]

Conteúdo excelente como sempre. Completamente fascinante do início ao fim.

[@AndyMumford]

Muito obrigado 🙏

[@orlantus7887]

It was a very helpful thing to see your workflow, especially editing. I would suggest uploading these editing videos in 4k in the future because I don't think we are getting all of the details you are talking about in HD. At times it is hard to see the differences when going from one edit to the next. Or maybe it is just me.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment, really glad you found the video useful. Generally I upload in 4K, but when i shot the clips in the field where I was talking to the camera, I'd left the camera in 1080 (they were done with my iPhone) and when I was editing the video together they really didn't look good upscaled to 4K, so I scaled the drone footage down and did the editing part in 1080 too. Next time it'll be 4K thought...promise.

[@duringthemeanwhilst]

fantastic insight into your processes Andy - thanks. as an aside, it's great to see images from the X-T3 and 55-200. I use this combo (though nowhere near enough sadly) and have just had a lovely 48"x30" print of a peak in the Brecon Beacons made up. I now mainly use my X-T3 for video and the GFX50R for stills, but I'm always amazed at the X-T3's IQ when I do use it for photography.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, really glad you enjoyed the video. Interesting to read that even after using the GFX 50R, you still find the IQ of the X-T3 impressive. That's my feeling too, not that the GFX 50R isn't amazing...I loved using that camera, but that the X-T3 still feels like a great camera even after using the 50mp medium format.

[@tomheim9516]

@both of you: I'm using the same combination, GFX 50R and X-T3 and often find myself using the X-T3. Sometimes a scene calls for 3:2 instead of 4:3 (I know, I could use one of the crop modes but why pay for all those pixels and then not use them all? :-)). Or perhaps I don't want to work as hard (I may have to focus stack with the GFX and not with APS-C). At any rate, setting aside resolution, X-T3 image quality is every bit as good as the GFX 50R. I'm never disappointed with these sensors. My 2 cents.

[@Spiros_Pandis]

This was such a great masterclass, thank you! I love your work!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment, really glad you found the video useful

[@Ashelley2007]

Incredible shots as always Andy... and stunning location I'm planning a trip to the Dolomites end of May, Is it possible to drive to this area Alpe di Siusi for a 5:30 sunrise.. Cheers

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you liked the image. For the Alpe di Suisi, technically you're not allowed to drive anywhere on it, there's a car park at Compatsch where you should leave your car. The park rangers are quite active in giving out fines and know the spots where photographers go, and local hotel owners won't hesitate to report anyone they see parked there, so I've seen a lot of people fined here. It's understandable really, it's a beautiful area and having cars parked everywhere would very quickly ruin it. To access it at sunrise you can either walk from Compatsch (it's probably about an hour walking) or arrange for a local taxi service to take you, then come back and pick you up later, which is what we do for workshops. There are various taxi operators who are licensed to drive up there, check with your local hotel and they'll give you a number

[@Ashelley2007]

@@AndyMumford Thanks so much Andy for all the info, It might have to be a Sunset capture this trip so... A great excuse to come back, Thanks again

[@edupujol9568]

You´re a great teacher, thanks!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed the video

[@MadLemmings]

Epic lesson as always Andy, appreciate all you do. It is far more time consuming to make videos than many realise :>

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, I'm really glad you found it useful

[@timemasterhms]

Interesting to watch and relieving. I thought your photos were unedited and was getting a complex about not being able to photograph that well straight out of the camera.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much. Every photographer edits there images. I don’t know any photographer who posts or sells work straight from the camera, even photographers who prefer to their work to be as “natural” as possible edit their RAW files

[@rodneytopor1846]

Thanks for that. Made me very nostalgic. I’d be interested in your comments on choosing a profile at the start of the editing process. Also in setting white balance, as the Fuji is not very reliable in my experience.

[@AndyMumford]

Hi Rodney, I hope you're well. By profile, what do you mean. I have all my software set to ProPhoto RGB. I don't use any of the Fuji colour profiles. As for white balance, in camera it's permanently set to Cloudy because I like to keep it fixed (Auto WB is a problematic when shooting vide as the white balance changes when a cloud passes infront of the sun and it's impossible to get it consistent). Then in Lightroom I just adjust it to the mood I want

[@rodneytopor1846]

@@AndyMumford Fine thanks. Hope you are too. By profile, I meant the setting at the start of the Basic tab in the Develop module, where you have a choice of Adobe Standard/Landscape/Colour/... or Camera Classic Chrome/Provia/Velvia/... Even if you're using the Lightroom ProPhoto RGB default, I think the choice of profile changes the look of the image. I'm interested in your choice of Cloudy white balance, because I think Fujifilm colour is too cool by default and choosing Cloudy white balance often gives a better starting point.

[@andreaceresara7204]

Thank you for the video Andy! I found very interesting the technique you used this time...I think I will try it! Anyway, is “Sassopiatto” and not “Sassopiato”!😜

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you found it useful. And thanks for the tip on the spelling :-)

[@zacharypump5910]

Your editing is mind blowing! My (often bad) habit in lightroom is to do the opposite of you, remove haze, pump contrast/clarity in a few spots, lift shadows and make sure the sky has detail. I end up giving every single image of mine a subtle HDR look. It nearly triggered my OCD when you effectively blew out the sky and mountain peaks :) That said, I'm getting so sick of my editing look, and I should be careful to take better advantage of shots I've taken when there's haze providing depth... my processing ends up conflicting with the haze so I sacrifice "haze depth" for conrast I guess

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment, glad you found the video useful

[@bchaszar]

So valuable to work through this edit with you, and hear your thought processes! Thank you for sharing. Would love to know some details about how you capture the panorama if you are ever interested in sharing. More specifically, with a composition so large, how do you go about making sure you catch everything with enough but not too much overlap? And does it matter that your camera is perfectly level or not?

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you found it useful. I’ll be doing a video on panoramas pretty soon. The camera being level matters for horizontal panoramas, but with verticals like this it’s not so important.

[@iqueque]

Excellent, many thanks Andy. When the craziness passes, I hope to attend a workshop of yours. In the meantime, is there a way to minimise the hard dark line on the right hand peak edge? It’s something I often encounter, normally at the intersection of high contrast tones, and haven’t managed to fix ..

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment, and of course I'd love to see you on a workshop when we can all travel again, I'm not sure what you mean by the hard dark line on the right hand peak. I've looked again at the image and I'm not seeing anything there.

[@svenweiss3142]

Since I always appreciate your opinion and iam thinking about to upgrade my 55-200 to the new 70-300: Can you make a comparison video with the two lenses?

[@AndyMumford]

Thank for the comment. I might do a comparison at some point, although it's tricky at the moment because the lockdown is really limiting my capacity to take photos.

[@svenweiss3142]

Thank you for your answer andy. Yes, in the current situation it is difficult as a landscape photographer. If the circumstances allow it at some point again I would be happy about such a video. All the best and stay healthy ;)

[@DrDryce]

Could you specify the exact location or google maps coordinates where this was shot? Looks stunning and planning to explore the north area of Italy this spring. Great video

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks, glad you like the video. The image was shot in Alpe di Siusi in the Italian Dolomites, somewhere between the Malga Sanon and Sport Hotel Sonne

[@johnwilleyjr6814]

Stunning images Andy. It's a treasure to watch you work through your editing process. I was wondering, how do you decide between editing with Lr versus C1? Is it image specific or just a greater familiarity with Lr/Ps? I have the same Fuji setup you're using, but need to hone my editing process.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you enjoyed it. I do most of my images in LR to be honest, it’s just more familiar and faster, te are often little tweaks in PS that I do, and that works better with LR. If there’s something challenging about the colour then I’ll probably have a go in C1

[@oliparish7225]

I know I’m a bit late to the party but what a great vid. I recently subscribed to your channel & the content on here really is fantastic. I have a question though, as you shoot Fuji & edit in Lightroom have you come across the ‘worming’ issue? I’m looking to get into the Fuji line but wanted to understand if this is a ‘real’ problem or just something for the pixel peepers? Ive heard that Capture 1 is a better option for Fuji shooters but I edit on an iPad Pro & can’t afford a new camera AND a laptop so Capture 1 isn’t an option for me sadly. Thanks in advance and looking forward to the next vid!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much for the comment, glad you enjoy the content. The worm issue really does depend on how much of a pixel peeper you are…it’s not something I ever notice but I’m aware that its there on some images if I zoom into 100%. It’s not something that bothers me at all though. Capture One does a great job with Fuji files, but its hard to say its a better option. Its easier to use, and images look better right out of the camera, but with some time in LR then you can get the same results. I’ve heard though that the next Capture One version will be available on iPad.

[@oliparish7225]

@@AndyMumford Amazing, thank you so much for the reply! I love the ergonomics of Fuji's so I really didn't want post processing to be a reason NOT to buy one. Let's hope C1 for iPad comes out soon then! On another note, the images from your latest/current trip look fantastic on Instagram. I look forward to seeing your next video! Thanks again.

[@opalyankaBG]

Amazing video. I noticed the panorama was shot at ISO 320 - any reason why you didn't go for base ISO? I suppose you were on a tripod when shooting it.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment Yoan. This was actually shot handheld and I was moving around quickly and changing compositions, so I didn't use the tripod. ISO is 320 just to ensure there was no shake.

[@IslaVision3]

Fotones...👏👏👏🤘😘

[@AndyMumford]

🙏

[@patrickweber9698]

Another lovely video to watch - thank you! One question I have however: how did you capture the individual images technically that you used for the stitched panorama later on? Did you take specific caution to have the lighting in all frames the same or anything else? I guess that also played a big role to lead to the final outcome, right? Thanks for your feedback :) Patrick

[@KetchMan66]

I'm also interested in such advices!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much Patrick, really glad you found it useful. I actually want to make a video about panoramas soon, so I didn't go too much into detail of the shooting here or it would have been too long. Basically you need to shoot manual exposure so the exposure is the same in each image, white balance too. Then I checked that the camera could recored the brightest parts (top left) and darkest parts (in the bottom) with the same exposure settings. If it couldn't I would have bracketed, but I didn't need to here. I actually wanted a really bright and really dark part of the image. It adds to the mood and flattening out the exposure would have diminished that.

[@patrickweber9698]

@@AndyMumford Great advice, thanks a lot for sharing these insights! The results turned out perfect indeed :) I'm really much looking forward to seeing the video about Panorama shooting. Take care and best regards

[@philipculbertson55]

Never seen Orton done like that. I plan to try that approach. Most often, after GB addition, highlights or whites get boosted. Do you always do Orton as you did here and are there advantages over doing it as I mentioned? Thanks. Quite interesting edit.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment...there are so many different ways of doing Orton, but this is the one I use most often. I don't use Orton every images, mostly on images with strong lightsources where I want the highlights to have a little glow. This is a classic example of that as I really wanted to push the glow and strength of the backlit mist. Also, I think it needs to be minimal. This is a huge image (164,5 mp, or 15200 x 10700 pixels) because it's a pano. Guassian blur effects each pixel, so of course on higher resolution images like this it's less noticeable than it would be on a single 25mp image.

[@lemongraz7295]

This was really, really helpful! May I ask you, if you calibrate your monitor or are the mac book screen colors accurate enough for you? Really appreciate the time you put in your videos! Thanks a lot :)

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed the video. I used to calibrate my monitor, but since I've switched to a 2019 MacBook I've not felt the need to bother. The thing about images is having consistency between what we capture, what we see on the screen and the print. If that's consistent and satisfactory then I'm happy.

[@lemongraz7295]

@@AndyMumford That makes a lot of sense - thanks for taking the time to answer!

[@georgesass4266]

Thanks Andy. One question....it looks like you merged 13 images. But if you shot two rows of six (I’m assuming in landscape orientation) that would give you 12 images to merge. What am I missing? Thanks again. As a Fuji shooter, I’ve learned a lot from your videos.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment, glad you enjoyed the video. The panorama wasn't exact, so there were 7 on one side and 6 on the other

[@Anjroow]

Fantastic video as always and very informative! Thank you Andy, one question I have is what do you use to process your raw files? Do you use iridient x and then Lightroom or just straight to Lightroom? Mainly asking for photos with wormy effect. Thanks again for always going in depth with your process!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment. I put my images straight into Lightroom and don't use Iridient. For some images I use Capture One Pro

[@giuliannomoroni7860]

hello, do you use the technique of exposing the histogram to the right, to further lighten the shadow areas?

[@AndyMumford]

No not really. With modern cameras with a live histogram it's enough to ensure that there is detail in the shadows and highlights before capturing the image.

[@TimGeersProductions]

Have you tried capture one? it sure takes some getting used to but I find it processes the fuji Xtrans file way better then LR

[@AndyMumford]

I use Capture One a lot...I actually have a video about it on my channel. It's great in pulling detail from X Trans files, but the lack of ability to stitch panoramas or merge brackets makes me less likely to use it on an image like this

[@TimGeersProductions]

@@AndyMumford Ahh I see, that makes a lot of sense

[@zemekiel]

Stunning image! I have a question about editing, because so far I have only been using the JPEG's from my XT3, but I am about to do some print testing and therefore having a go at the RAW files. Almost every Fujifilm KZbinr claims you need to use Capture One or Luminar instead of Lightroom to avoid artifacts. What is your take on this, considering I will edit my pictures for printing A4 and A3 sizes?

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks so much, glad you like the image. While Capture One certainly gives sharped images out of the camera, my feeling is that you can still get print quality images out of the Fuji in Lightroom. Artefacts tend to appear in images with foilage or dense high detail, and they are brought out by sharpening. To avoid this I never sharpen my RAW files, I export them as JPEG or TIFF after editing and then resize them to the appropriate size in Photoshop, adding the sharpening at the same time as resizing. I also feel that they are only visible when zoomed in to 100% Printing at A4 or A3 is well below native resolution on an X-T3 (which is about 60cm along the longest edge) so you don't have the same feeling as looking at an image at 100% in LR

[@zemekiel]

@@AndyMumford Thanks!

[@MiguelMorenoGP]

So the painterly quality on your images comes from the Orton Effect and crushing the blacks (and light of course)? I thought you would be taking clarity and texture way down, but here I am still bemused

[@AndyMumford]

There are different ways to doing the Orton effect. Reducing Clarity and Texture is one, but I prefer to do it in PS at it gives you more control

[@sunnyta619]

Ive got a question. Im about to buy my first x series interchangeable camera. Is it advantageous to have both c1 and lightroom? Use c1 first to do initial editing then bring into lr for presets should i choose? I dont want to make more work for myself but i know that the initial edit appears to be best when done in c1. Cant find out much info on c1 presets. Trying to establish what my workflow will be before i even get my camera and lenses. Thank you!!!

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment. To be honest, I rarely use C1 for editing. There's no doubt that the files look great out of the camera, but really it doesn't take much to get them looking the same in Lightroom, and Lightroom for me is so much more intuitive to use...particularly after the latest updates

[@sunnyta619]

@@AndyMumford i was wondering if lr had done any updates to help with that problem

[@arunmuthupalaniappan7277]

Hi Andy, as a Fujifilm user who just started editing in lightroom, is there anything that can be done to change the way lightroom processes .raf files? I have seen there is some sort of success with the lightroom enhance details feature, but sometimes, I do get worms / softer images that what I see in capture one express. What do you personally do to prevent this?

[@AndyMumford]

This is a tricky question because it really depends on preference. I don't do anything about the "worms" as they've never really been something that bothers me. I'm not much of a pixel peeper, and never noticed them show up on a print, so they're not something that I really bother about...although I know there are some people that do

[@csjoe]

Really nice work although I prefer more the original photo because of the colours. But that's just my taste.

[@AndyMumford]

Thanks for the comment

[@uk7195]

Hi i have xt3.camera automatically reset when I take out battery .asking me to set everything again .could you tell me how to resolve this problem thanks

[@AndyMumford]

I've never had that problem...sorry, not sure how to help.

[@georgesmith3022]

most people say that lr has problem editing fuji raw files and creates worm effects. what is your opinion?

[@AndyMumford]

I've never really had a problem with it

[@ericbell7529]

This has been bothering for months now. I’m nowhere near your level of photography. But my Fuji files look nothing like your by any means. At ISO 160 with xf16-55, f8, on a tripod using 2 second timer my files look gritty and at best cartoon looking if I’m lucky.

[@AndyMumford]

I'm sorry to hear that. I'm not really sure what the solution might be as I just import my RAW files into Lightroom