How to Install Sill Plate on Concrete or CMU foundation. D.I.Y.

[@_re42]

Great video! Keep up the good work and please continue to post more content. These very knowledgeable and step by step videos are so essential. Thank you.

[@runinguy]

3:57 love the satisfied look on his face when it all fits 😀

[@iciaquin3580]

Very informative! Helped me in my studying. Also, i am planning on building my own shed in a few months ☺️ thank you! Keep it up

[@Chrissers2010]

Suggestion, flip your sill plate over so the growth rings point down (center of tree towards the concrete). This way as the sill plate cups, it is not cupping up, but instead the cupping is being restrained by the bolts and concrete.

[@JustMe-ug2cz]

that's a good one!

[@charles_of_all_trades]

brilliant!

[@fifthdimension326]

Great information! Creating a moisture barrier for the wood is a great idea! Thanks !

[@mst5632]

Sill seal (foam or caulk) is code. Mainly to stop termite/bug entry between the plate and non-smooth concrete surfaces. But, it acts as a moisture barrier as well.

[@da324]

@@mst5632 How does foam on top of a block wall under a piece of wood keep a termite from getting to the wood? I'm not trying to be a smartass, I just don't see how it would stop them if they were to get to that location. Thanks!

[@mst5632]

@@da324That is a very good question. A termite will not eat through the foam. However, they will crawl through that open space if it’s not fully sealed. Termites don’t know that if they DO eat through the foam they will be able to crawl between the sill plate and foundation to get to unprotected woods (floor joists.) They only eat wood. Not everything in their way to get to wood. With the sill plate sealed to the foundation then air, wood roaches, spiders, beetles, ants, termites, etc. cannot pass through that space. No bugs. No air leaks. A termite will crawl up your sealed foundation wall, find only PT sill plate wood which they won’t eat, no openings to pass through, then crawl off your foundation and go find wood elsewhere to eat/live in.

[@da324]

@@mst5632 That makes sense. I appreciate your response.

[@GGallion7]

Thank you for your presentation, very informative.

[@conanthedestroyer7123]

1:20 Thanks for the video. QUESTION: My 1.5 year old house has a Sill Plate all around the 3 car garage and there is no Seal Gasket as I can see daylight under the Sill Plate treated wood. Would "Great Stuff" help fill in the gaps or you recommend something else?

[@ghettohey2388]

Best method to find anchor bolt holes is to lay the treated sill board flat on the foundation and but up against the anchor bolts. Then make sure treated sill boards are flush with outside edge of foundation wall. Then take a square and slide it against each side of bolt and draw a line. Then find the center dimension of the bolt from the outside of the foundation wall and mark on the sill board. Then drill holes. Also best to use a large washer on the bolt to so it doesnt pull thru.

[@Mar-sz2ug]

That's like work. Lol. Good way of doing it, though. But, another way, put it on top, use your speed square line it up on the edges, then a hammer hit above each bolt. Done. Exactly where each one goes. At least, that is the way those old professional house framers taught me long ago.

[@LenovoLenovo-g2f]

Nice job.❤

[@androcci]

what kind of blocks are those? they look pretty smooth. What did you use to fill up the hollow blocks?

[@gustavomarcal70]

Great job

[@vamique]

Well explained !👍

[@ivanhps5498]

so easy to follow thank you

[@thehillbillyhoarder4996]

Thanks for the video. Just subscribed

[@pdan3676]

I noticed that the anchor bolt is not near the end of your 2x8 sill plate. Here in California, sill plate ends requires anchor bolts, no further than 12 inches. Perhaps your county does not required.

[@PaulyDownUnder]

You should also consider using Acoustical Sealant (does not skin over or dry) along with the sill sealer. This will provide a really good air seal and because it stays soft allows for small movements in the house. You can see more about it here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/q4HFh6VrbsZsbJY (fast forward to the 4 minute mark.

[@eldenboy11]

how much concrete did you use to fill the block cells? the wall is tall did you fill the cells all the way to the footing? or just the top of the CMU wall? if just the top how did you keep it from dripping and slumping down to the deeper cells?

[@da324]

They use cavity cups. They sit perfectly in a block cutout (cavity) and prevent any concrete from flowing down into the walls. Whether it's a short or tall wall, the last one or two courses get poured. That's called a lintel. If it's a singled lintel, one course gets poured. if it's a double lintel, the top two courses are poured. All corners are poured solid. All lintels and corners get rebar.

[@skeltonantonio]

How did you get the sill plate under the existing house foundation

[@D.I.Y._All-in-One]

had to jack up the house slightly then lowered it on the sill plate

[@stevenlee4867]

Awesome !!

[@brady0630]

good stuff

[@PatrickPierceBateman]

I've never understood why nail guns are so large and cumbersome. I mean, if they can make a firearm that can fit in your pocket, why can't they make a nail gun that will do the same?

[@sshumkaer]

Cant you just use TAR like they did in the old days?

[@robertwalker8716]

Remove the gasket and use it as a template

[@qstrian]

Measure twice. Cut once.

[@ToxicSocietyTroll]

Always hard to get much done with yoga pants on the job site.

[@gurigill4975]

Make sure anchor bolts should be not more than 12 inch where is the joints and corners of the plate I fail inspection because of this I hope you guy’s not

[@michaelcarr5633]

Bella linda