Anodizing Aluminum - Failed Attempt #1 (Aluminium)

Anodizing Aluminum - Failed Attempt #1 (Aluminium)
Amateur video work and amateur hobby machinist. Videos of me working on various projects in the workshop and around the home. Work using my Vevor MX400 Mini Lathe and Precision Matthews PM-25MV Benchtop Milling Machine.
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[@fasturn-fc2of]

Hey Dee, your almost there. I used to do anodizing at Northrop. Larger parts need more current. There are formulas for that ( square area) , but i just spitball it and use larger wire . Aluminium wire is much better than steel. When you see that washed out color, it was not a complete anodizing. Or black goes purple. As you anodize the resistance in the part goes up, so the high current is important. Break free water cleaning is everything in plating. Dave blew me away on a comment, but just trying to help thats all. Love the channel. Know the best of platers get bad results too !!

[@deezworkshop]

Thanks for your words of encouragement. You have me motivated to get back on this sooner than later. My plan is to get a benchtop power supply to control current better than using the battery charger. I googled "Break free water cleaning" and now know what thats all about. I wonder if my splotchy spots were from a bad surface cleaning. I will give all those pointers a try. I think this is a really cool way to finish aluminum parts and I am confident I will get it right in time. Thanks for the comments and I appreciate you watching. Cheers.

[@fasturn-fc2of]

Platers say if you can clean a part, you can plate it ! Very important to be water break free. Most are using sodium hydroxide at 140f to clean / light etching before anodize. We used about 18 volts. After anodizeing hot water dip for 3- 5 minutes will seal the part. Makes it dry faster too. I use other baked coating instead, because of all the chemicals you have to maintain. Just fun watching you do it at home. Most think it's like paint.....easy !! Not at all. Good luck, just don't use those skinny wires. Ohms law, you need lots of current. 😊

[@deezworkshop]

Loving all your responses. Taking notes. Thanks much. I will nail this down.

[@trollforge]

Deez, the Baking soda isn't going to neutralize the Lye if you have a spill, You should keep a bottle of cheap Vinegar on hand for that... Back in the 80s we were taught that you had to use a lead cathode, but that's probably not the way it is done anymore...

[@deezworkshop]

Thanks, I will update my notes about having some vinegar on hand. I dont have any lead to use so I used a scrap of aluminum. for my next attempt I will improve the materials I am using. I will try to source some lead in the meantime. I have seen it done with lead and aluminum...who knows I just need to find something that works for me. Appreciate the comments and thanks for watching.

[@Casimir-t3i]

It's been a long time since I researched this. I tend to dissolve the clothes as I'm wearing them whenever I change my car's battery so I'm a little hesitant to try this. Caswell Plating is a company who sells anodizing kits. They have a how to video on their site. The steps they give in the video is degrease, deoxidizer, anodize, dye, sealant. The difference I see from what you did is the lye, I'm not sure if that's to degrease or deoxidize and you neutralized the acid after the anodizing. Not sure if any of that matters as I'm just an interested observer. The video gives a more complete overview if you're interested.

[@deezworkshop]

Thanks. I’m aware of caswell but didn’t go too deep researching their products due to costs. I am hopefully I can accomplish this on the cheap. I appreciate the direction, I will check out their how to video for further guidance. I was a little nervous about all the chemicals as well but trying to be as safe as I can with it all. I will be trying another attempt whe I get a bench top power supply to control my current better. Cheers and thanks for watching.

[@TheMiniMachineShop]

Hey Deez, still confused why everyone is boiling parts to seal them. It took a strong acid over an hour to create microscopic cells for the die to fill. How are some excited water molecules going to close those cells. I tried it and it did nothing. Just my thoughts.

[@deezworkshop]

I do think it washes some of the dye off and reduces the intensity of the color but my understanding is its about the dye itself. I think it needs to be "set" by boiling it in water. Maybe the boiling water melts the dye or some how changes it state so that it is more stable. I am no expert but it appears the boiling water step helps seal and fill any remaining porous material. Here is a link to WAY too much information about it all. lol but a snipit from it is this... Historically, sealing had been predominantly carried out in deionized/distilled water at high temperatures (close to 100 °C); a practice that is still popular today. The efficacy of hot-water sealing treatment is based on its ability to promote hydration of the porous aluminum oxide and barrier layers, producing a crystalline hydrate phase (boehmite) which fills the pores. finishingandcoating.com/index.php/anodizing/1220-the-sealing-step-in-aluminum-anodizing

[@fasturn-fc2of]

One of the most widely accepted methods of sealing anodic coatings is by hydration of the anhydrous coating. This can be done with a simple immersion of the component in hot deionized (DI) water, which, at the proper temperature, pH, and immersion time, will hydrate the coating.

[@TheMiniMachineShop]

@@fasturn-fc2of This is great input thank you!

[@marcellinden7305]

Think a lot of your failure was due to the battery charger which probably gave you rectified AC voltage instead of the steady DC current you need... Plan your constant current DC power supply to give you 0.02A per square inch surface area to be anodized for a thin coating, or 0.03A for a thicker oxide coating. Your items in this video I'd guess would be about 15sq inch in total surface area inside and out so 15 x 0.03 = 0.45A, which translates to a start voltage probably near 15V that will rise over time to near 20V to maintain that current... A 30V/3A constant current lab bench supply set to current limit at 0.5A and max voltage of say 20V would work just fine... The rest would be you dialing in your chemicals.

[@deezworkshop]

I’m really glad I put this out there. The advice I’m getting is priceless to me and it has renewed my interest in tackling this anodizing sooner than later. Appreciate it and you watching.