Apple Scab and Fungal Disease Prevention

In this video, Matt shares examples of different fungal diseases that are commonly seen on trees like Crabapples, Serviceberries and more. Matt also shares how to prevent fungal diseases like apple scab, cedar quince rust, cedar apple rust, powdery mildew, and more.
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[@alyssa123789]

I battle leaf spot on birch leaf spirea. I had tried infuse but that was before I knew you needed to spray before the problem appeared and multiple treatments. Thank you for doing this video as I always try to ensure the sources are credible (and you are). I used Revitalize Biofungicide once the leafs were open, but before the disease was present (probably too late). I have seen a big difference in the progress of the leaf spot. I am cleaning up debris and garden tools. I am careful with watering also. Once I saw the first sign I switched to a Chlorothanonil product and spray 7-10 days. I wouldn’t be so concerned with this but last year it devastated the foliage.

[@Jesse-ws7me]

My 2 yr old McIntosh apple tree suddenly started getting brown curly leaves and all the immature apples have become spongy. What should I do?

[@Carl-iw9sy]

My crabapple tree was great the first couple of years that I planted it. Now I am debating (since it's still fairly small) whether or not I want to deal with this every year. Mine is the 'Indian Summer' crabapple in zone 6b northeast US.

[@WascoNursery]

Have you already seen signs of apple scab / premature leaf drop? Typically young trees, especially newer cultivars, are going to be more resilient to fungal diseases like apple scab. If you are already noticing signs of disease, it is possible the cultivar is not as resistant as others.

[@Carl-iw9sy]

@@WascoNursery I believe that's what it was. The leaves had black spots to then turned yellow, eventually they started falling off. Even the fruits got some type of fungi growing on them. I sprayed them with Immunox and seemed to stop any further damage. It all started approximately around June.

[@WascoNursery]

@@Carl-iw9sy Yes, that is all consistent with fungal diseases like apple scab and rust. I recommend following the advice in this video to treat it or just expect the tree to decline.

[@EinsteinRutherford]

The foliar size of my apple trees every year remains short .how to cure it

[@WascoNursery]

Treating for Apple Scab in the spring, after bud break, and fertilizing with a micro-nutrient fertilizer like BioPak can help increase the leaf size and limit the scab and stress that the trees are showing. www.wasconursery.com/product/biopak-plus-stress-relief-fertilizer/ www.wasconursery.com/apple-scab-treatment/ That being said, many older crabapple varieties are harder to treat and do not respond as well to treatments. I recommend contacting a local arborist or bringing in a photo of the tree for us to take a look at if you are local, to figure out whether or not it is worth it to treat the tree.

[@UserAvailableName]

Man, just bought a house in October here in Canada with a apple tree in front of it, right now the lawn is full of yellow leaves and the tree too. Didnt realise I'd have to spray chemical on it every years... That's a real bummer. Thinking about cutting down right now and planting a maple tree or something less prone to those disease. Would've like to know in advance this was needed from the seller, but hey what can you do.

[@WascoNursery]

That is unfortunate - many of the new varieties of crabapples are disease resistant. If you like the look of them, you could try to find a local grower of Crabapples like 'Royal Raindrops', 'Golden Raindrops' or any of the other new disease-resistant crabapples.

[@michaelperry4398]

I believe my newly planted sweet gum slender shilouwetts have antracanose, it's June 27, I planted them about a month ago , what should I do now? Will it die? They have spots on the leaves

[@WascoNursery]

Anthracnose normally will not kill the tree. I would make sure to water it appropriately. In our part of the midwest, we have very heavy soils, so we recommend watering once per week with a slow trickling hose for 30 minutes to an hour.

[@michaelperry4398]

@@WascoNursery should I do preventative fungicide next spring? It's a sweet gum slender shuollotte

[@rehmsmeyer]

My tree is huge how do I spray it?

[@WascoNursery]

Great question - If the tree is very large, we recommend contacting a local arborist to treat it. Please make sure that they are a reputable company, and that they are spraying every 2 weeks starting at bud break (usually April) with a systemic fungicide (4 total applications).

[@rehmsmeyer]

@@WascoNursery Sounds very expensive, no?

[@donnakoch9134]

I looked the infuse up on Amazon and it said it is for ornamental plants.

[@WascoNursery]

Yes infuse can be used on trees, shrubs and perennials. It is also effective at treating lawn rust and other lawn fungal diseases

[@donnakoch9134]

@@WascoNursery I'm concerned that it is not appropriate to use on apple trees as they have edible fruit.

[@WascoNursery]

@@donnakoch9134 great question. Infuse does not contain anything inherently harmful to humans. It is a fungicide, and is primarily harmful to fungi. That being said, for fruiting plants that you will eat, we recommend the organic alternative of Neem Max (cold-pressed neem oil) or Copper Fungicide by Bonide.

[@donnakoch9134]

@@WascoNursery Thank you for the information! It is an issue that arose for me this year. My pink lady apple didn't drop it's leaves til the following spring, so makes it difficult to clean up for the next spring the previous fall, so some type of fungicide treatment will likely be necessary next year. I sprayed with sulpher and captan, but apparently that wasn't effective enough.

[@WascoNursery]

@@donnakoch9134 Copper Fungicide when the leaves open next spring will be more effective for sure.

[@diyguy2383]

I just lost 4 of my 6 apples to cankers. They were 2 yo. Im buying a cross pollinator for the 2 i have left and i will NEVER EVER EVER plant another apple tree. I have planted apple, pear, plum, fig and peach. Apples are the only ones having these problems.

[@WascoNursery]

Hey @diyguy2383, sorry to hear about that. Do you know where the Apples came from? It is unlikely that 4 Apples would die from canker only 2 years after being purchased. Most reputable nurseries inspect their crops to make sure they don't sell diseased plants. If you do see canker or black knot in the future, make sure to cut it out and sterilize your pruners between cuts. Here is a great video with some pruning tips: kzbin.info/www/bejne/r4KQYZWMbplpqrs

[@diyguy2383]

@@WascoNursery i work a lot of overtime and cant check on these trees all the time to notice these things early. By the time i noticed the trunks were over half way ate through with cankers. I bought trees from several different places but the apple all came from a local nursery. They did fine for almost 2 years then i come out here and notice one had a massive black spot and after further inspection 4 of them were ate up on the trunk to the point i couldnt save them. Like i said though none of the other fruit types have this problem. Idk how people grow these trees without constant chemical sprays and pesticides

[@ravenbishop5232]

I am having problems with apple cedar rust. I don't plan on planting any more apple trees

[@WascoNursery]

@@diyguy2383 Unfortunately, consistent spraying is the only thing that prevents insect and disease issues on fruit trees. We recommend organic products, since you do not want to get chemicals inside your body. Some trees, in some locations, for whatever reason, may be more resistant than others to insect and disease issue. However, as they age, all of them will start to show signs of insect and disease, unless they are consistently sprayed.

[@WascoNursery]

@@ravenbishop5232 Cedar Apple Rust is a very common issue and is fairly easy to treat on your existing apples. Make sure to spray early in the spring when the leaves are just starting to open. Repeat 3 times every 7-10 days. And this will protect almost all of the foliage from disease. Without spraying, the apple will just continue to get the disease, since it lives in the overwintering leaves in your soil.