Application of Flintlastic SA 2 ply and 3 ply Self-Adhered Roof Systems

[@Gretclips]

This is the best Work Ive Seen in over 15 years

[@deshyvin]

Lol there's always one.

[@davidblue435]

Sir, I have watched over a hundred video's on this installation process and you have won the Award for best all around instruction of how to install this product. I hope the Company you are proudly displaying behind you appreciates just how valuable you are to their product. Older employees seemed to be devalued these days but in this industry to me an older gent appears to have no problem losing their profession when they have the knowledge you have. Thank you very much for your very specific teaching style. I will be sure to use your product line to do my three sun rooms in Florida next month. May you live long and prosperous!

[@lazaroarocha7370]

I have watched a lot of videos but your are the best you are truly best roofer I seen. thank for your expertys

[@aj507977]

excellent video. the instructors were thorough and experienced. this video showed exactly what needs to be done with flat roof material to any person with experience or not. great instructions!

[@xosuperfreakox20]

I’ve always made my crew watch these videos , all the way down to even the laborers. Out of 12 ppl I had 5 ask me why he cut his starter row back 6 inches. Lol...I didn’t think nothin about it as it seemed obvious to me , but when making instructional videos the “reason” why something is done often helps the info stick to memory much better. Not sure about u guys , but I often forget what it was like to not know anything at all about roofing. We think things should sometimes be easily understood , when in reality “easily understood” is normally a perk of experience.

[@allison447]

holy moly these guys are good. Perfect metal bend and cuts and that dude can hammer faster and more accurate than a machine. Great video explanation

[@jesusactivo5624]

Very helpful and professional video thanks for sharing this video to people who are starting to do this kind of roofing.👍🏼

[@Nosweat99]

This is why I love the algorithm. I would’ve likely never found this on my own. Wish they would’ve had some penetrations to work around or a chimney for demo. Excellent none the less

[@SimplifiedTruth]

Great work! but shouldn't a t-seam cut be done on the end over the metal flashing 12:40-12:41 so there is not two layers stacked on the edge but a solid one layer all the way down the flashing?

[@marthinuscilliers3726]

I like these instructions. I’d get nails lower in the starter strip though. I’d rather omit the starter strip than nail it that high.

[@marcfavell]

is it possible to install this on a house that already has gutters up? without using the metal around the edge ?

[@michaelledford4751]

Before I retired my crew installed over 2,000 sq of self adhering cap sheet made by Garland and we found out it's not the right system for production ,all tear off must be 100% cleaned up before any installation or dust collects and interferes with bonding ,we ended up changing the system to the base sheet and 1st ply to be sprayed down with cold process where we phase roofed the entire building ,then the self adhering modified install was 100% easier.

[@MrFlatroofer]

The metal trim does not go into the guttering. You have not left room for the gutter brackets. We always nail a 2x1 batten on the facia.

[@brandonbrady2821]

This is a demonstration, not an actual roof

[@brandonbrady2821]

And if it was a deck it might not have gutters 🤣

[@SnickasBah]

Super helpful. Good presentation.

[@Meekmanvideo]

Just primer is needed to tie cap sheet into the drip edge? No mastic? I'm working on 140sq ft shed roof.

[@CertainTeedRoofing]

The metal must be primed and, once cured, you can self-adhere to it. A bead of FlintBond Caulk Grade can be applied along the edge of where the cap sheet and metal meet.

[@marthinuscilliers3726]

With the metal set in mastic, water can’t leak around the metal edge and behind the fascia. Also, the nails that holds down the metal also goes through mastic. The primer on the metal is obviously sufficient if you follow the base, mid, and metal installation instructions.

[@Brandon-no3vc]

@@CertainTeedRoofing you like using a mastic as primer and not quick cure spray on in a can? What about both?

[@Brandon-no3vc]

How long does mastic take to dry? Tacky just as good as dry?

[@oclaothug69]

Do you need this system on a 2/12 slope ?

[@lucawebs2806]

pretty good vid,i did never saw nothing like it.we do much easier,so less save.

[@dsahouston5198]

Does the selvage area at the rakes not need to be cut away at an angle, similar to t-seams?

[@CertainTeedRoofing]

Thanks for your patience Dan. This is Justin with CertainTeed Roofing writing, and I received the following answer to your question from a colleague in our technical department: 'No cut away should be made at the rake. That is just utilized in the end lap details.' Please let me know if you require further information.

[@dsahouston5198]

CertainTeed Roofing Thanks! I had seen both approaches from different sources. I went with "no cutaway" approach so I'm glad I did it right!

[@dldunagan3503]

It appears that your starter shingle is install was incorrect! Shouldn’t nails be 2-3” from edge, just above sealant line? Preventing wind uplift of first course! (First 6” of shingles)

[@xosuperfreakox20]

In this specific type of installation where his shingles hung 2” past the edge of his starter , the first row of shingle fasteners will secure that same area. So I’m sure this would be fine. Plus the wind uplift is far less then normal of hanging over an eve. However , right is right. YES always fasten your starter exactly where you mentioned. Even tho his first row does fasten this exact area on the starter below it, it would obviously be much stronger had the starter been fastened there to begin with.... personally, I do use a starter here, but I set the starter in mastic , then the first row has mastic applied to bottom 3”. And I never but my gable starter to the top of the eve starter. I bring the sealant lines together. If it’s a thin starter I’ll just over lap, if it’s thick then I’ll trim both pieces so that the sealant lines make almost a perfect corner. The smallest extra effort in detail can mean the difference from someone becoming reputable or not.

[@michaelwood5519]

Short house, must be built for ants. Nice job

[@thresher2656]

The only thing that I don't like is the price. 3 ply roof is like 3 per square foot on materials.

[@brandonbrady2821]

First ply is a 2 square roll

[@josephjohnson1013]

Heavy breather doing the shingles

[@chrislesperance8342]

how does one become certified with your company?

[@CertainTeedRoofing]

Chris - you would need to contact your local territory manager - if you do not know him/her, phone your local distributor and they'll help you out!

[@Brandon-no3vc]

Why use a base sheet why not just a ply and a cap? why use 9 inch strip why not just use mastic or a full layer of ply?

[@brandonbrady2821]

They have a 2 and 3 ply system

[@Brandon-no3vc]

@@brandonbrady2821 y use a 9 inch target sheet tho

[@brandonbrady2821]

@@Brandon-no3vc to stagger he seams

[@Brandon-no3vc]

@@brandonbrady2821 watch it again he doesn't use it to stagger seams

[@brandonbrady2821]

@@Brandon-no3vc oh it is to go under the flashing because the flashing has to sit on membrane

[@Believeincode]

Don’t nail your starters high like that fellas.. thank me later.

[@SungoingNova]

I've never heard of starter strips on the sides.Is it necessary and if so, what is the function?

[@xosuperfreakox20]

Wind and hail is obviously hard on shingles. But it’s even harder on gable shingle overhangs. An additional row of starter extended up gables does several things. It acts as an added support that helps hold those shingles taught for extended periods of time. It also allows for another point of adhesion giving more total weight to fight the elements. Wind will often curl the corners of gable shingles, I’m sure you’ve seen this. With starter ran up the gables the wind can no longer cut thru from the bottom and lift those corners no where near as easy as it’s able to without starter. When thinking of a roof in terms of longevity , I would consider this necessary. Now shingles have been used for many years, and the previous method with starter applied to bottom row only has worked in a lot of cases. So it can be argued as a way to save money stating a roof can work without adding stater to the gables. Personally, I would rather spend a few extra bucks on fortifying the integrity of my roof, rather than argue past practice and not make the change just to find out at any point that I SHOULD have made the change. Because if that regret is in us, it was put there by damages were seeing in our roof that could have been prevented....🤙