Milling machine tutorial - cutter selection, speeds and feeds, coolant, high speed machining

[@christianlewis7055]

Your videos are just wonderful, they're always so easy to follow. You talk in a consistent but not boring way, you're not too flamboyant and distracting. Just clear, helpful information.

[@ggattsr]

Amazing. The extent of your knowledge seems limitless. But whats even better is your ability explain things in concise, easy to understand terms. Thanks for sharing.

[@EddieVanHalen1977]

This video tells me, a complete newbie to machining, exactly the main things I would need to know if I were to try to do some milling. This is the best video I have seen on that for getting started. It is long but never gets boring, and there are just a lot of things to know about this, and if you don't really no much at all about it, this video cuts to the heart of what you would need to know to get started. It talks about the feel, speed, and vibration of cutting, tool flex. Awesome! 5 stars

[@tonythomas951]

Very nice. You were able to help an old electrician learn about machining in an easy to understand way.

[@xesior]

To communicate is one thing, but to exchange experience and knowledge through words is greatest feature of human-kind. I really appreciate these kind of video's. People really underestimate and under-appreciate the value of this kind of knowledge. If only people realize how much time, effort and money this knowledge must have cost Ben Krasnow. They would know... How valuable it really it.

[@pf0xx]

A CNC Lathe and CM programmer here. Great video. Very informative and technically correct.

[@michaelskoblin2315]

I use both HSS and carbide cutters in my CNC converted PM-30MV. I use the carbide for its rigidity more than anything else, and secondarily, they may not be as sharp as a new HSS tool, but use the HSS tool in wood, G-10, carbon fiber once, and it is no longer sharp. It will cut, but will not cut like new. The carbide tools stay sharp for a much longer period of time, as long as you don't chip them. I love your informative videos, keep em coming!

[@EddieVanHalen1977]

The best thing about your videos is that your start with a perspective and context, and purpose, and reason. In most videos from other people, the guy just starts talking about some minute detail he was working on and gives you no context or perspective at all. It is like they are so down in it, they can't rise above it so you can see a perspective of what we are talking about, and why, and what you need to know, and the gotchas and tricks involved. Maybe a make a video on how to make a video?

[@JShel14]

So much pure and logically flowing information. Thank you so much for sharing this knowledge.

[@helicrashproprocrasher2367]

ZrN coatings on endmills are specifically for aluminum and not for ware resistance or strength but is for friction (low coefficient of friction). Aluminum tends to "weld" itself to cutters and causes lots of problems and the ZrN coating stops the aluminum from bonding to the cutter. Aluminum cutting endmills coated with ZrN are great. The geometry of aluminum specific cutters is different as well but another topic. If you cut a lot of aluminum, try an aluminum specific cutter coated with ZrN and you will love it. I'm a big fan of Lakeshore Carbide aluminum ZrN coated cutters.

[@mrracer98]

Best Speeds and feeds video I have found to date. Thank you!

[@ChrisGammell]

Ben was instrumental in my learning about machining, simply from his helpful KZbin comments. Glad he's doing this as a video. Thanks Ben!

[@johnk756]

In the video you mentioned not being able to get a right angle on a slot cut!due to the infinitely small radius issue. Me and a friend actually figured out a way to do this, and although definitely not SOP, it does work with most non exotic metals. We just used a drill mill bit held at an angle and raised the table slowly so our cut angle would come to a point and match with the radius of our end mill bit. It was quite tedious and required precise matching of the bit angle to our end mill radius but we managed. If you would like to know more feel free to comment or message back for details. Fantastic videos and I love your channel! Please keep these entertaining and highly informative videos coming!!!!!

[@jameshyatt9529]

Yes. Rigidity is everything!!! If the part moves or cutter howls, don't run it. I have used a peck routines (G83 G73) with end mills, center cutting only of course, many times, .005 from the finish bottom, then did the pocket, or an X/Z -Y/Z ramp into the part. Consider trying 3 fluter's for aluminum. Yes there a pain to mic but they are way more rigid and still clear the chip well. And how about 10000 RPM, 160 ipm, 1.750 x .500 Carbide, 3 flute ball end mill on T-6061. No joke. And we were doing that 30 years ago. And find a good T&C grinder. Totally worth it. Thanks again Ben.

[@tannersword1]

Very informational video, thanks for posting! Seeing this video and your other videos, it makes me glad you're posting all of your work. I'm starting a small machine shop in order to have the capability to do all of the miscellaneous experiments and prototyping that I want to. It's cool to see others doing the same or similar thing.

[@PAINTuRED]

"the moon might be in the wrong phase"...I love that quip!!!!

[@aerocam2]

Very well delivered. Thank you so much for taking the time to shoot/edit & post for us to benefit from. Thank you!

[@electricananda]

Great video! This was more informative, useful and understandable than two courses worth of Mechanical Engineering studies on milling that I've had.

[@hienaz723]

thank you to share your video. i learn a lot from you than my instructor at school. when he taught me manual mill machine last semester. i am taking cnc mill now but your video is really helpful. thank you again

[@UberAlphaSirus]

Ben, this has to be the most concise explanation I have ever come across in any format, be it the internet or machinists I know. All in 30 minutes! Just 2 things I personally think would make this gold plated and 100%. Is if you could explain "pecking" for chip clearing etc. and explain that conventional milling means the cutting edge is head on collision with the material rather than overtaking maneuver, best metaphor I can think of. Kind regards and best of luck.

[@suckmybat]

So much great information crammed into a half hour, and presented so lucidly. Thanks very much for your time and expertise.

[@BM-jy6cb]

Ace. As alwaysl. One of the best KZbin channels out there.

[@WinstonMakes]

This is better than 6 hours of classes at my school. Also, it makes me second guess pre-ordering the Shapeoko 2. Rigidity is not that device's middle name...

[@tnekkc]

I have owned mills and milled ~ once a week for 15 years. And I learned some things from this video.

[@ericreynolds74]

Loved this, its as important to know WHY youre doing a specific process as to How youre doing it.

[@Lance14352]

Thank you very much. I have done quite a bit of machining for school (ME student) but I was never actually explained some of these things. I have just been told what to put my settings at and then learned the rest from experience.

[@ZomB1986]

7 years ago and I almost don't notice a difference in your way of narration. Unlike some others where you can really see the progress they've made in 7 years, you've been top quality for at least this long. Keep it up.

[@scottrichardson7195]

I'm just learning how to run a mill and this video has so much great information! Thank you!

[@koopsbullitt3874]

thanks, I buying my first CNC and this gave me lots of information and direction on research I need to get operating in a safe manner. I appreciate your time

[@mlentsch]

Yea, no - this is really good. It's the kind of "finesse", experience-based info that's the hardest to come by and is easily missed since, well, you don't know what you don't know! This fills in some gaps - I'm sincerely appreciative.

[@howardsway782]

Great presentation with loads of useful tips, thank you so much... 1/2 hour seemed like 5 minutes.

[@charlesthomas7970]

Great info and advice, especially the moon phase variable! I'll have to remember that one for work when something goes wrong

[@johnpaulcarter6770]

Fantastic video - perfect speed at just the right depth.

[@SeerSnively]

This was amazingly informative. I'd like to see more videos like this, instructions for using tools.

[@mlr1941]

Thanks Ben, I found this instructional vid very useful. Keep the good information coming, I have a project working at this time that encompasses an 80% lower receiver for a AR-10 rifle. Answered many questions about the set up fir the mill tools that will be used. Mike

[@bomataralshamsi]

Thank you so much bro your explanation was very very useful and grateful thank you bro 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@seanmcmunn88]

This was a great tutorial and I cannot wait to share this with my greenhorn engineer colleagues

[@reinhardtusa]

Excellent :-) Lots of useful info for a rookie machinist. Saved for reference

[@glenrodgers5532]

Thank you I have been looking for the information you just gave me since I bought my mill lathe combo a year ago. I'm going to save your video to watch over again. Glen Rodgers

[@MorRobots]

Ben this video sums up hours of machining knowledge so well!

[@GuyFawkes911]

This is really an awesome tutoral I would love to see more of mill tutorials

[@MacoveiVlad]

Great video! After watching other milling videos I found this surprisingly well structured and straight forward. I feel that if i had the machine and tool data sheet i could make some chips. :)

[@jayfulf]

Great explanation. Covers pretty much everything I learned however, I did learn to use conventional for a rough pass and climb for the finishing pass.

[@AppliedScience]

Some cutters can plunge and others cannot. This feature is called "center-cutting" since the cutter has edges that extend all the way to the center. My CAM software is very old and using plunges is the easiest way, but this will cause more wear on the tool. Using helical or ramp entry is better since the cutting area is spread over more of the tool.

[@FretsNirvana]

Very very well done. Thank you. I have a manual RF-30 mill and this is still very helpful to me.

[@massey760man]

Very helpful video for a complete newbie to machining. Thanks!

[@RimstarOrg]

Thanks! That cleared up some things for me and highlighted some things I should do differently. Very helpful.

[@otakucode]

Wow, great informative video. When you bust out the sheet with SFM ranges and all, the only thing I can think is: Why aren't milling machines smarter? Put RFID tags on the bits, include a little menu where you can choose the material type, and you're good to go. Little microcontroller could set the parameters optimally. Wanna get fancy? Track use history of each bit, adjust settings accordingly as it loses hone.

[@joegreen7766]

What a great video! Thanks so much for taking the time to share this!

[@KowboyUSA]

The most useful information you've shared here to date.

[@Inductable]

I can just imagine Ben's calm voice describing the details behind a mass decapitation machine.

[@vladone428]

This was great! I'd love more videos on cnc milling.

[@Steve_Just_Steve]

Your absolutely right about not running too small of a chip load, however as a rule manufacturers recommendations are an OPTIMAL load and a figured using optimal work holding and optimal rigidness and thats certainly not always the case, so going below manufacturers recommendations is not a bad thing at all as long as you dont go too low normally around a .001 load

[@ARVash]

this is fantastic thanks so much for the brief break from your normal awesome. very helpful

[@jonnyhifi]

Superb ! thank you so much for this video : so helpful for me as I'm gearing up to learn how to use my newly purchased small hobby CNC mill.

[@Enoch8283]

Wonderful video. Ben could be a good teacher. Thanks

[@josephswift7622]

This was the video I was looking for thank you

[@echobravo5488]

You're brilliant bro! Keep up the good work!

[@TignMeg]

One of your best Ben Well done!

[@dillonmccarthy2694]

Brilliant, bro. I waste so much time reading and watching bullshit that it's nice to finally come across a reference that is well presented and educational. Thanks for the share.

[@sagaertj]

I always use alcohol as coolant to dril and chamfer aluminium it avoids sticking and gives a clean cut. It also gives you a non greasy finished part. For taping thread in polycarbonate i use soap on the screaw tap,it avoids the threading tool to heatup and melt into the plexi.

[@TheKing669]

This was really good and interesting. Perhaps do a follow where you show the process and the making of something - so everything from drawing to finished product ?

[@clusterfork]

I don't have a mill, nor am I in the market for one. But somehow I am sitting here after work, sipping wine and watching this.

[@JerryBiehler]

A reason to use carbide in the home shop, stiffness. Less chatter and better finishes. Also dealing with materials like stainless makes life easier. Also the idea that HSS is sharper is unfounded. Lake Shore Carbide 3 flute aluminum cutters are great. The coatings do make a difference. The typical TiN not so much but coatings such as ZrN for aluminum help prevent metal buildup. There are also coatings for dry milling steel and stainless. The hotter they run the better the coating works.

[@ChrisB257]

Nice refresher material Ben, thanks.

[@beautifulsmall]

just changed my monster bridgeport clone for an Excel mini-jig borer and couldn't be happier. Its about 1/4 the size but is built for precision not mass workload. Its 360Kg of cast iron so no baby. If anyone is buying a mill , I can recommend horses for courses, big looks good but are you skimming engine blocks or making precision clocks.

[@w8fg]

what an awesome shop you have! Amazing!

[@dorindraghici348]

Thank you very much, it was very instructive!

[@deadlyrabbitz]

Your videos are awesome. Good job.

[@radarmusen]

Interresting, I have a little proxxon mf70 with stepmoters. Have not luck with acrylic material, it allways ending up melting to the bit but aluminium goes well.

[@MrOmnos]

+Mads Thorup submerge your materiel in thin layer of water and then try

[@stensonlindal7929]

great video! very helpful and very well spoken! thanks

[@JerryBiehler]

4 flute cutters when slotting will cut oversized. Like you mention, there is more than one tooth in cut, this causes the cutter to flex and cut wide. It also messes up your finish. I use three flutes for everything.

[@ChevyGbody1987]

nice mill to have in a garage

[@02mick75]

i made quite a few notes, thanks, much appriciated !

[@tomrum42]

Me too. Great video an one of the best I have seen on the subject. I'm a newbie to milling.

[@calgo1711]

This video is perfect. I haven't found any other videos that go this in depth with mill bits and cutting. Do you think you could do a video explaining how you would choose bits for different projects? As a beginner I'm finding it difficult to choose which bits to invest in first. Thank you!

[@jacobberry7665]

Excellent tutorial. Thanks!

[@656u]

Great info. Great delivery! Thanks.

[@yashmanwani6232]

Awesome. Thanks for the tutorial.

[@magidavid]

Fantastic, thank you. I'm just starting to get into milling and this was very informative.

[@talhanaeemrao4305]

Sir, your video is just awesome. It is so nice and easy to learn from you. My moon is in the right phase ;)

[@etothejtheta]

This was excellent. Thanks for sharing.

[@drew79s]

Carbide tools do offer a couple of other benefits, first that they can be used to cut much harder materials than HSS, like heat treated materials up to 60Rc. Carbide is also a lot stiffer so its not as sensitive to heat as HSS, so you get better surface finish and can run harder without coolant. Coatings offer some other big benefits, like reducing cut friction, so, for instance, TiAlN coated carbide cutters are really good as a general hard work cutter.

[@raidenshang4216]

great video. It is really helpful to me. thanks!

[@marte3no]

Love your tutorials! Thank you :-)

[@MrUni22]

Could you do a video on planing and building the part in CAD, and maybe something about G-code. Thanks and love the videos

[@jbrownson]

Great intro, thanks!

[@Killerpie4578]

Excellent knowledge

[@elboa8]

Thanks for your time. Interesting.

[@tom_something]

If your linear movement is too slow, you're also increasing the number of cuts the tool has to perform in order to finish the work.

[@eaglesdood16]

awesome video! thanks for sharing i learned a ton

[@jcjimenez5327]

Such a great video thank you..

[@panchovilla1486]

Thank you for that video I hope you make some more

[@SadamFlu]

Lol was that useful? Hell yeah it was!! Thank you for such a great insight into the world of milling! Lots to think about and take into consideration.

[@mrajsma01]

Hi! great video! Could you recommend any books on this subject? Thanks

[@funnyman8593]

VERY GOOD INFORMATION. THANK YOU

[@ExMachinaEngineering]

Very, very useful!!! Thank you!

[@jamescullins2709]

Good job, love to see more

[@Codewalkers]

Nice tutorial

[@thisnicklldo]

Thanks, really interesting. Maybe I missed it, but there must be some relationship between chip loading and depth of cut (I mean 'depth', say, when removing exterior material, not depth of plunge i.e. like 'depth' for a lathe cut). At the limit, if the depth of cut equals the tool diameter, each tooth is cutting for half a revolution (I think) whereas for a shallower cut, the tool maybe cutting for only 1/10 of a revolution - surely this must help cooling at the edge?

[@mdesm2005]

Could you instrument the mill to determine in real time if the feed rate and/or spindle speed was to fast or slow? For instance, could you measure the force applied by the tool on the part by measuring the current draw of the motors driving the axes? Could you aim a temperature sensor (eg IR camera) at the point of contact between the tool and the part?