Applying Different Waterlox Sealers

Part 1 of a 4 part series. A quick demonstration of both Waterlox interior SEALERS for comparison and How-To. The use of Universal Tung Oil Sealer (UTOS) and Original Sealer/Finish.

[@johnsmith-cj7zy]

So what is the advantage of using the UTOS sealer before applying the original Waterlox finish? I was hoping the UTOS would result in a darker finish on white pine flooring (as stated on your website). On my test board, the color appears the same. Can you apply 2 coats of the UTOS before applying the Original Waterlox finish?

[@Waterlox]

Thank you for considering Waterlox products for your project. There is a helpful guide at Waterlox.com called "Advantages of UTOS" (www.waterlox.com/project-help/guide?id=6310c900-4b20-4713-900d-63b8eb8f0834&q=) that has some detailed information. As for color, the UTOS and the Original Sealer/Finish have the same oil/resin composition so the color will be the same. You can apply multiple coats of the UTOS if desired, but you will not change the color much. The UTOS is designed to saturate the wood surface to allow you to start building your waterproof film faster and more evenly. Once you start adding the finish coats on top of the wood, you'll start to see it darken. At the end of the process, there is no difference between using the UTOS and using the Original Sealer/Finish.

[@tommyvvirs1731]

We accidentally used the Waterlox first, and did not apply the tung oil sealer, we still have the small bottle of sealer should we just continue with the Waterlox coats? We have put two coats on bowling alley flooring countertops

[@Waterlox]

Thank you for considering Waterlox products for your project. Can you please help me help you by telling me which Waterlox product you mean when you say you used "Waterlox first"? Regardless of answer, if everything is drying properly, then I would just continue on with what you're using. Usually the biggest issues of not using the UTOS first is when the H2OLox is used as the top coats. The water on raw wood will cause grain raise and may not dry properly on high tannin woods (oak, walnut, etc.). For old bowling alley (maple), that shouldn't be a problem.

[@tommyvvirs1731]

@@Waterlox Hello we Used the H2OLox first, so we will just keep applying with the H20 then?

[@Waterlox]

​@@tommyvvirs1731 Yes indeed as long as everything is drying properly. Again, shouldn't be an issue on maple.

[@StockTankPool]

So unfortunately I went by your vague directions on your bottle before looking at your videos on how to apply. First, I applied the tung oil with a brush. And I used WAY too much product. I never wiped excess off as I did not see that instruction anywhere on the bottle. Now, my tung oil is dry and is super shiny. I came here because I put the H2o waterlox on and it didn't seem to be soaking in. So I came to find a video on what it should look like. Then I realized we put the tung oil on all wrong but it's completely dry now. Also, the bottle says leave the tung oil to dry overnight. To me overnight is 8 hours. To you overnight is 24 hours. You're other products say 24 hours, so I was like well they would've said 24 hours and not overnight if you meant 24 hrs. So that's fun.

[@Waterlox]

Thank you for considering Waterlox products for your project. When you say “Tung oil” are you referring specifically to the Universal Tung Oil Sealer(UTOS)? If so, that will definitely dry in less than 8 hours. You are correct that almost all of our other products recommend 24 hours between coats. Almost all of our products contain Tung oil as the primary ingredient so it helps to clarify exactly which one you’re talking about. Typically, leaving too much UTOS to dry will result in a very dull, very wrinkled finish. If you had a nice smooth surface then moving on to the H2OLox would be fine. You’re building up a thin coat so it should not be soaking in. If you have any other additional questions or need further advice please contact us at [e-mail] or call during normal business hours.

[@fuzzyjem3]

How often do you reseal? And with what if you have the satin finish?

[@Waterlox]

Jeremy - Thank you for your interest in our products. We have a helpful guide about the lifespan and recoating frequency of our products on our website (www.waterlox.com/project-help/guide?id=0a4398de-7a05-4868-9984-dfef9f5bcc88&q=). To summarize, the finishes are "permanent" so they don't need to be regularly reapplied like butcher block conditioners, waxes, mineral oil, etc. I put "permanent" in quotes, because if the surface is rarely used, then it should never need to be refinished, however, for a heavily used surface like a kitchen countertop, occasional maintenance is needed. For heavy traffic areas, refinishing is still on the scale of 7-10 years. For refreshing, we have a detailed guide on our website (www.waterlox.com/project-help/guide?id=98bf39c6-7eec-4433-b735-8ddd5c7dcbb5&q=), but you can use just the top coat (Satin Finish) to refresh the final surface. You should not have to use any of the sealer products again, but they can be used in more heavily worn spots if needed. If you have any other questions feel free to reach out to us at [e-mail] or [phone].

[@jay-in-az]

Do you have a product for gloss coating epoxy and wood bowls?

[@Waterlox]

Thank you for your interest in Waterlox products for your project. The most common product of ours for smaller woodworking projects would be our Original Sealer/Finish (TB 5284). Ernie Conover finishes a wood bowl in one of our other videos: www.waterlox.com/project-help/video?id=9a9e6346a53c4de0a9e88b4d24203ee3 The Original Sealer/Finish will create a food safe, non-toxic finish, but I would not recommend it for regularly used bowls.

[@jay-in-az]

@@Waterlox And epoxy? My bowls are combined, wood & epoxy. I watched a video by Sprague Woodworking that used a Waterlox product for a gloss finish on wood / epoxy combination but his finish, albeit video, didn't look smooth. Thanks!

[@Waterlox]

@@jay-in-az Yes, the Original products adhere well to epoxy. We have an epoxy and Waterlox guide (www.waterlox.com/project-help/guide?id=87f90549-989a-49e8-a1ef-19b54fa3fbc8&q=) that has a little more information. I cannot speak to the quality of their finish, but a smooth finish can be achieved. Most people just wipe on thin coats of the Original Sealer/Finish until they get the desired sheen/finish they like. You can even wetsand using the Original Sealer/Finish to act as a pore filler to further smooth out the final finish.

[@wandabutler2521]

How can I find the sanding video?

[@Waterlox]

Wanda, you can find that video and all of our videos under the Videos heading of our website (www.waterlox.com/videos). The specific sanding one is under Countertops and is labeled "Removing Old Waterlox Finish"

[@JohnSmith-xx9se]

I know you have to wait 24 hours between coats, but can I flip my countertop to apply a coat to the other side while the first side dries? I have it on saw horses. I assume after 12 hours or something it will be dry to the touch and ok to flip.

[@Waterlox]

John - it depends on which products you’re using and your specific project. This guide may help: www.waterlox.com/project-help/guide?id=0fc25320-d9fd-4562-8317-fcfb2b70e4b4&q= For really heavy projects (thick slabs of hard woods) you may want to wait even longer than 24 hours.

[@JohnSmith-xx9se]

@@Waterlox I am using the original sealer/finisher on butcher block countertops.

[@Waterlox]

I would recommend a full 24 hours when flipping on to the top surface. At least 12 hours when flipping on to the underside. Longer is always better. You will have a higher risk of scratching or denting the finish if you do it too quickly. Butcher block is not a species of wood so that doesn’t tell me much about size/construction/weight. If it’s large and solid strips (not veneer) then it may be better to distribute the weight more to minimize impact on the finish. Be advised that any covered area is not exposed to oxygen so it stops the curing process when covered.

[@JohnSmith-xx9se]

@@Waterlox It is solid hevea (rubber wood). Thanks for your replies.

[@remodelwithashleys]

What product do you recommend for mdf feeder tables and work stations?

[@Waterlox]

Our Original Sealer/Finish is popular for workbenches as it is easy to apply and touch up, and provides great protection even when worn. Ernie Conover uses that in his workbench video (www.waterlox.com/project-help/video?id=469e6831b68d431db75d2d4d355a93d1). The Original Sealer/Finish does have more surface grip than many other finishes, so it may not be ideal for feed tables. A top coat with Original Satin Finish will provide more surface slip. Also, our products penetrate into the wood. The MDF will soak up Original Sealer/Finish like a sponge so it may take many coats to really get it waterproof.