The LIES and confusion of Tung Oil wood finish

[@StumpyNubs]

Pure tung oil: amzn.to/3ay0KXA​ Formby's tung oil blend: amzn.to/3oMQ2Bl​ When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► MyWoodCutters: mywoodcutters.com (We may get a small commission if you use one of the above affiliate links.)

[@verisperrulaias2999]

hi, i know this probably isnt the best place to ask, but ive been working on some hickory walkin/self-defense canes. its been recommended to me that i use tung oil for several reasons. my biggest concern is preventing scratches from makin it to the wood. i guess im askin if a total newbie will have issues with tung oil and if theres a better option for protecting the wood as well as lookin gud*not lookin to use acrylic

[@john-lenin]

Oh, it's "tung." I've been licking them.

[@alishajose1815]

Thanks for the info! Is sanding sufficient before applying tung oil? Or do you need to use a wood cleaner before sending and applying? Thanks again!

[@bruinflight]

Hey Stumpy, noob question here: if it takes a long time for 100% to soak in, why would you wipe off the excess? Why not just let it sit?

[@rosaleeklassen3277]

@@bruinflight do

[@Saneyboo]

KZbin is so weird, i don't have a shop, i don't work with wood or anything like that, i still got recommended this video and fully watched it from start to finish, i will never use this information for anything whatsoever, but he was so good at explaining that i kept listening.

[@Tom_H327]

You'll be amazed at yourself a few years from now when the subject of oils on wood pops up inexplicably. You'll rattle off what you heard here and your friends will be amazed you know such things. Trust me; It will happen.

[@tinymetaltrees]

Me too.

[@Bob-of-Zoid]

Proof that AI at this time is all A and no I!

[@Jin-Ro]

Haha same. Now I just have to wait for someone to raise the subject of Tung oil, and I can chip in "Actually..."

[@asailijhijr]

You might ever buy furniture finished with tung oil, you might otherwise maintain someone else's furniture with tung oil. I'm just trying to be contrarian.

[@tetraire3844]

"Made from the nuts of the Tung tree, which doesn't hurt at all". You, sir, are a very underrated humorist. Thanks for the links and thanks for posting.

[@backpacker3421]

You beat me to it... sure sounds like it hurts, though.

[@johnmanning4577]

Don't be too hasty. We haven't heard from the Tungs on this....

[@dougguest6454]

ha ha ha ha ha

[@ScottPankhurst]

and not even a break in the presentation either.

[@dryananderson]

I had to rewind to be sure that’s what he said. Perfect low key delivery.

[@ericlaudenslager9230]

The distinction between “adding to a first coat” and “adding a second coat” was very helpful

[@squigglyline2813]

That hit hard.

[@DSWoodworkUSA]

such a simple concept, but very useful to hear it worded hat way

[@gregoryhall2680]

I too worked in a family hardware store in my 20's. All I ever knew about tung oil was what was on the can. I feel like I know 1000% more after this video. I really appreciate how you spell things out without talking down to the audience. We need more people with skills like this in the world.

[@caramiasmullen9892]

I absolutely agree 100%

[@richardclark4580]

After seeing this video, I would go with a blended Tung Oil product to ensure quicker drying and, in most applications, a harder finish w/ more resins to provide a harder, more durable finish...I've seen those old, antique kinda crinkled up finishes that I thought looked like a mistake. Now I know why...

[@silvermediastudio]

This is spot on, and agrees with the extensive research I had to do about 15 years ago when applying finish to a new M1 Garand rifle stock, which was made of nice dark, dense walnut. I used pure Tung Oil, applied it moderately thick and let it soak for an hour, wiping it every 20 minutes or so to saturate evenly. Wiped off excess and let it sit for ten days. Repeated that cycle for seven coats, I used 600 grit between, not sure how much that matters in the end. It took a ton of oil and the final result was impressive. When all the coats were done I gave it a buffing, a very light application of natural carnauba wax, and buffed it out again. Water beads and slips off like a car hood, but it isn't slippery in the hands. Maintaining the wax finish every time out in the field keeps it in great condition. Yeah it took almost three months, but time well invested.

[@Krunch2020]

Results you could get in an hour with a catalyzed hard wax. But that’s not why we’re here. I’m making tung oil wax blends using beeswax and carnauba.

[@skillsonian]

Dude, you should be the one to make all instructional videos for all subjects on KZbin. Your perspective, preparation and speaking techniques are first-class all the way! Congratulations and thank you!

[@timstahlmann8785]

I second that. I would welcome any instruction from him. He has the best delivery from anyone I have ever seen on KZbin. Bravo!

[@allanshpeley4284]

"Jack of all trades; master of none". Is that really what you want from this channel?

[@lightworker4512]

@@allanshpeley4284 as a DIY homeowner, YES. I still listen to other videos for a different perspective.

[@allanshpeley4284]

​@@lightworker4512 Hey, me too. But to be clear I was just saying that one person can't possibly cover *all* subjects. I've just stumbled onto this channel recently and have benefited from some great woodworking advice. But I don't think I'd take accounting or mountain biking advice from an expert woodworker.

[@SJmystic]

I concur with the compliments about how well done this video was -- great explanations and important illustration with materials, great choice of information to include (loved the historical references), clearly spoken, and even a little humor! Just one suggestion: you look a little short on tools, so perhaps get some more for the background before your next video. 😉😂 Thanks for taking the time to do this to inform the rest of us!

[@jcyork1767]

Wow. After watching your video. I realized I have nothing but time for a beautiful natural tung oil finish for the old barn wood shelves that I am about to put together......nothing but time. Thank you.

[@DKWalser]

Lot's of great information! I just want to add: Pure tung oil, like all natural products, varies somewhat from one batch to the next. This is one of the reasons it's so hard to say with any definity how long it will take to cure. Not only do you need to take into account temperature, humidity, and air movement, the type of wood, the oil in two different bottles of the same brand of pure tung oil may have different cure times. That's okay. We're dealing with a natural process and cannot rush it.

[@kellyvcraig]

Look into the pre-polimerized stuff. Just as boiled linseed oil hardens quicker and harder, so does tung oil version.

[@gnarthdarkanen7464]

If I'm doing hobby stuff for hobby reasons (or contracted specifically for product reasons) I often stick to natural finishes and enjoy that I have time to take... If I'm in a rush, intent on getting something done and out the door, I go with Poly... Just clear-coat it worth whatever I'm building and kick its figurative ass out of the shop to be rid of it. When it is about the contracted product, I'm careful that my client/customer is AWARE of whatever we're getting into before I start. I don't like "rush jobs"... I'm not going to compromise a promised product because some other idiot suddenly wants to get in a huff. I'll finish the thing and keep it first. ;o)

[@JosephMollica]

Man, I really appreciate your style of explanation! Your patient, thorough, and methodical ways tell me you truly understand your subject matter. Keep up the great work!

[@juliemac5640]

Einstein (or some other wise man) said something to the effect that, if you can’t explain it to a 4th grader, then you do not know your subject matter.

[@Rick-the-Swift]

@@juliemac5640 Just curious but was Einstein ever able to explain his Special Relativity theory to a 4th grader?😆

[@musamor75]

It's always a pleasure watching (and listening to) your videos. Al though I'm an "old boy" myself now, I still learn new stuff thanks to your very well documented reports. As to the question of oil finishes, as a cabinet maker myself, I once met an instrument maker and restorer (baroque clarinettes, flutes ,and oboes) in Paris. He used to submerge his wooden "blanks" (unfinished blocks of wood) in different oils for up to two years!! He showed me a future baroque boxwood mouthpiece that he had soaked for two years in sweet almond oil. Honestly, simply rubbing over a piece of wood with some oil will never penetrate like actually submerging it in the oil. Today everyone wants an "instant" or very quick finish. I've done French Polishing (Shellac) here in France for over three decades. The "real Mackoy" takes about six months to do a genuine French Polish job- two to three seasons. At nearly 65 I now prefer oil finishes. I still think soakings the best method. In which case it would be better to slightly dilute the oil solution for better penetration. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Greetings from France.

[@BeauChampion]

I really appreciate you taking the time and energy to help break down such a confusing subject. It's practically a public service! 😉

[@rosaliedefosse4742]

Yes, I agree, he is doing US a favor!! I have breathing issues, I don't want toxic chemicals in my home! 😩

[@waynekitt6770]

Thank you, James. It is very pleasant, in our current environment, to hear someone cut through the B.S. and just tell the plain truth about something. No obfuscation, no diversion to self-interests - just plain talk and honesty. Very refreshing. Thank you.

[@jamesstanlake4064]

I was first exposed to Tung Oil as a finish back in the late 70's while working as a cabinet shop manager. We had a joe building stereo speaker cabinets and the person who had us building the cabinets specified the Tung Oil finish for them. He worked as a engineer for Chrysler in their trim plant and he had taken all readily available wood finishes and made test samples that were placed inside the climate chamber at the plant and were exposed to freezing cold all the way to extremely hot climates and the whole spectrum of humidity. Of all the finishes tested the Tung Oil was the only one not effected by the wide range of climate conditions. It was easy to apply and I always recommend it as a great finish for people just starting out. The trick to Tung Oil is you MUST read the label on the container to assure you are getting pure Tung Oil. Nothing else will do. Tung Oil rules!!

[@nobnobnobnob]

If this is true, I will add this to my Woodworking Bible, the Gospel of James, Chapter: The Parable of the Tung Oil

[@scottdowney4318]

That is correct. How about warming the oil to thin it and make it soak in quicker, perhaps microwave tung oil first.

[@TroyIson]

@@scottdowney4318 Pure Tung oil is flammable, even the rags you use to apply it should be cleaned because of spontaneous combustion that can be caused by tung oil... Be very careful if you decide to heat it. 'Super heating' it polymerizes it, making it dry quicker after application. But, you can buy tung oil that has already been super heated, so you don't have to risk heating it yourself.

[@nobnobnobnob]

@@TroyIson The last time I heard this story, it was Linseed oil, not Tung oil.

[@gnarthdarkanen7464]

@@scottdowney4318 I frequently heat oils and finishes to thin them... My personal favorite thing is a heat resilient bowl on a "Beverage Warmer" (aka "Cup Warmer")... The newer ones with TWO settings usually run at 120 F and 150 F so you have a pretty solid control of temperature without exposing the oil to potential ignition... IF you're in a hurry, the bowl of oil can be floated on water in a pot on your stove. Tongs remove the risk of burning fingers while steadying the bowl, and the water can even simmer or almost boil... A normal spoon or even a popsicle stick can be employed to stir the stuff, and will help you judge when it's sufficiently hot. The pot of water puts some distance between the stove eye (or burner) and the oil... I'd advise you avoid an open flame, but if that's basically impossible, you CAN also get a "buffet burner" which is a single stove-eye on a platform with a cord and temperature control... There's no need to hazard the kitchen and your life cooking on a propane stove... AND with even a little ventilation, the oil's flammable vapors should dissipate before reaching a flammable content... BUT be sure the area is ventilated when you cook oils... there's always a risk... You CAN also employ a thermometer in the water-pot. This lets you get the water as warm or hot as you wish, fiddle with the stove (or buffet burner) controls to stabilize it, and then set the bowl onto the water... This controls how rapidly as well as how hot you heat your oil... Candy-makers use this technique (called "double boiling") to avoid incinerating sugar when they only mean to melt it... The burning point of sugar is treacherously close to its melting point... The big reason I rarely use a microwave is that just like grapes, there are occasionally "nefarious" contaminants in other things... Slice a grape in half and let the two halves touch in the microwave and you can develop plasma plumes! Not going to accuse linseed or tung oil of having horrible sh*t in there that will wreck your microwave... BUT I'm hesitant to use it because I don't know the chemistry and I don't feel like taking the time to bother... while a cup warmer can be utilized just fine and only needs 8 - 10 Watts to do it... ;o)

[@LutaRed]

This was a great presentation! I've been using pure tung oil on most of my turning projects over the last 8 years and I love it. But, I did have to learn that tung oil takes time to properly harden. I wish I had seen this video when I started turning. I have one lidded box that I turned out of cherry burl that by the time I was "done" with it had more than 60 coats on it and it absolutely glowed! I didn't want to give it up after that, but I had turned it for a friend's daughter's 16th birthday (it would have been nice if my buddy told me more than the day before her party!). Anyway, I quickly got the box and lid turned and fitted, gave it to her and then took it back! I told her I needed to finish it and she looked at me kind of weird, but gave it back. I brought it home and over the next year I applied and reapplied and reapplied etc etc every few days or until the previous coat was hard. I had a couple of wood worker friends tell me there was no way that was pure tung oil... but I know it was and I know how much time I put into it. When I gave it back to her, she loved it, so I guess I am ok with having given it up. That was the most coats I've ever put on a project. Maybe I'll try for a 100 coat project at some point, but that will take a couple of years the way I do it! I should ask the gift recipient for a picture of the box since I totally forgot to take one before handing it over! Rick in NH

[@45auto82]

I’ve been finishing wood for 60 years and didn’t know this. Mostly used Deft (Lacquer), waterspar varnish, shellac, polyurethane. For gun stocks I like the harder, more durable finish of poly blends and multiple coats, sanded in between. But sometimes I still use a Linseed Oil blend (True Oil) that dries quickly, if the customer wants a “hand rubbed oil” finish, usually 6-10 coats, polished to a high gloss with 4-ought steel wool. Thanks very much!

[@p9a9r21]

Thank you!!! I and many other semi pros and novice natural wood finish aficionados appreciate the informative factual discussion and online seminar on Tung Oil finishes. Your video was a flash back to my "apprenticeship" with a senior from eastern Europe who married into a family of furniture makers from France and Spain. I remember coming to his shop behind his home and finding butcher blocks, tables and chairs brought to him by businesses owners and families who wanted genuine craftsmanship in maintaining, restoring and repairing these heirlooms. One of my first projects in his shop was restoring the tung oil finish on two cutting boards belonging to two sisters in our neighborhood. The cutting boards were wedding gifts to these two sisters from their maternal Grandfather. It took almost TWO MONTHS to complete the restoration.

[@gordroberts53]

Thanks James! My goto finish for most of my turned wood and shop cabinetry, benches etc., is Minwax Tung Oil finish. For stuff on the lathe I generally apply three coats, using the third coat as a lubricant to wet sand with 400 or 600 grt. I like how it responds to friction after wet sanding and will generally add a coat of minwax finishing paste wax to add more depth and lustre. Now I understand why I like what it does for me. Many thanks and stay safe. Cheers from BC!

[@travismolnoskey2745]

For my butcher block countertops I used a 50/50 blend of pure tung oil and d-limonene orange oil solvent that I bought separately and mixed together. Did 4 coats with ~12 hours between each, and I've been very happy with it, completely food safe and has been very water and stain resistant.

[@horsepanther]

Thanks for sharing that info; I was thinking of using that blend but wondering about exactly what you included-dry time, number of coats, and water resistance!

[@als4817]

Thanks for posting !

[@tommybarrow5849]

I’ve heard you can re-coat this 50/50 mix in a short time. I waited a day for the second coat and after a month it won’t dry. Still waiting to sand and recoat.

[@als4817]

@@tommybarrow5849 Perhaps what it under, ie the 1st coat or before is preventing the 2nd from drying. Sand all the coats off, steel wool or plastic pad. Scrapers work well for this operation.

[@travismolnoskey2745]

@@tommybarrow5849 it might have to do with how you applied it, what I did was apply a generous layer with a shop towel until the whole surface was well saturated and wet looking, then went back a minute later with dry shop towels and dried off as much as possible until I couldn't see the wet sheen anymore. Then repeated every 12 hours 3 more times. The final coat did take probably a week until it stopped leeching oil onto things I set on the countertop and the strong smell went away.

[@itsthatguyphil]

The ONLY Tung oil I use is made by Real Milk Paint Co. They pride themselves on making only pure, "old-time" natural finishes. No high glosses or anything. The only additive option that the offer is the Tung products that contain either orange or pine oil, to make for easier absorption. But this video is correct, there is so much misinformation about Tung oil, and I find that most woodworkers really have no clue how the real oil actually works, how to use it, and the true benefits of it (food safe, animal / child safe, etc).

[@Eric-AC]

There's plenty of other pure tung oils that aren't that expensive, good product but yeah.

[@rondavis9625]

I use Real Milk Paint products myself. Never disappointed.

[@polymerasiecondens6857]

This KZbin video provides a superior explanation of tung oil compared to all other videos on the subject. The clarity of the narration and the adept handling of the confusions found in other videos make this one exceptionally valuable.

[@ArsonBourne]

Amazing clarity in your explanation. No beating around the bush and blah blah, which 95% of KZbin videos are. As mentioned by another person, I wish you make videos on every subject. Thank you.

[@Hawthorn-nz]

Hi, I showed your vid about helical cutter blocks to a student yesterday - I overheard him saying to another teacher that he'd 'learned heaps'. Great presentation/delivery. I will recommend your channel to the class. Regards from New Zealand

[@vardieyal]

I have an oak entrance door directly in the harsh sun, and rain. It was finished with varnish and had to be sanded and coated every year, till i tried pure tung oil. Now, it is to my surprise looks new every day and withstand all weather much better than varnish. I will continue to oil every year just by light sanding and Tung oil again. It is much more beautiful and resistant.

[@David_K_pi]

Wow! An added tip at no extra charge. Thanks! 👍

[@alkaholic4848]

Can't thank you enough for this video 😀 I have a Greenland Paddle (kayaking) made of mostly red cedar and the original advice I got is to use Tung Oil to protect it. But there's so much confusing and conflicting information out there that I've never been confident about maintenance and applying it until now. Feel so much better after watching this, really clears things up, and opens up new possibilities about the different variations so I can choose which works best for differing circumstances. This mere 15 minutes of information is an absolute game changer for me. Thanks again.

[@dnomyarnostaw]

"If the sandpaper gums up, it's not dry ..." great tip. Missing information - "Can you over coat Pure Tung Oil with harder finishes, like Estapol ?"

[@masonroberts296]

Thank you very much for making this very informative video, and for laying out the truth about this subject. I am a Gunsmith and I used to use Formaby's Tung Oil for years on gun stocks for refinishing. I Didn't Realize that it wasn't Pure Tung Oil. In recent years I have used a blend of half Formaby's and half Boiled Linseed Oil. An older Gunsmith I know told me thats what he uses, and his stock work is superb, so I switched to that mixture instead. You have gained a subscriber and a fan!

[@creativerecycling]

Several years ago, I inherited a small round antique lamp table. The top was veneer, split 4 ways, with an inlaid edge… beautiful. Except that the old finish had failed. I carefully stripped off the old finish and applied a 100% T’ung oil finish, which I had never before used. Was surprised how long it took to dry. Put on subsequent coats at 5-day intervals, polished it with 0000 steelwool and applied several coats of paste wax. It is absolutely gorgeous! Very durable and seems water-resistant.

[@dowtingtomas.695]

Hey man, can I use this finish on old mahogany burl veneer cabinets ? They had been shellac with a tint , but someone applied thick coats of poly and fucked it up. I have sanded and tried to shellac and polish but I just can’t get a nice finish .

[@Redsnapper5037]

Loved your Tung Oil video to clear up it’s use. I have used it for years and never been disappointed in its results. Amazingly I learned additional info techniques from your video. I use the PURE Tung oil on my river bottom cypress with beautiful results. Keep the the good work.

[@Banzai431]

This is the second time I've come back to this video, once when I was finishing my meranti speaker stands, and now again for a refresher to finish 2 knife handles, one redwood and one walnut. This video is invaluable. It's helped me so much. The finish on the speaker stands is durable and long lasting, I'm thinking it will be similar on the knife handles. Got a melunak butcher board planned, so I'll probably be back here for a third time when I finally get around to that. Thanks so much for this video.

[@robwagner2789]

James, I know it might take a while, but it would be nice to see what that pure tung oil finish looks like after each successive coat for 3 or 4 coats. I've used what I *thought* was tung oil before and didn't see the big deal. Be nice to see it done properly.

[@dherman0001]

It's my finish of choice for indoor items as it holds up poorly to weather. The big deal is that it looks obviously natural, and is natural. It compliments wood. It's super easy to apply and refinish. Putting anything synthetic on high quality wood, unless it's an epoxy top, seems like a sin. I just can't do it. Never had complaints.

[@mcbaine3793]

@@dherman0001 I really dislike shiny finishes and have been thinking of using tung oil on some projects, including a speaker build with pine and my father is replacing a gunstock with cherry for me, I want to use tung oil on that as well. What do you think of these applications and how far does 16oz go? Thanks in advance if you are able to answer. I don't know anyone that actually has even heard of pure tung oil, so any input from an outside source would be great.

[@dherman0001]

@@mcbaine3793 I use satin

[@upsidedown1972]

For those who want to use the pure orange oil, d-limonene is what you are after. I do 75% d-limonene and 25% tung oil. I use the same as stumpy does here. Then each coat I change the ratio until the last is pure tung.

[@Brandon-zo9ly]

This is close to what I do, but I do 75% first, then 50/50, then 25%. I get the tung oil from real milk paint, but the solvent in bulk so its cheaper.

[@davidcleveland4575]

I really appreciate you sharing your process and ratio, just curious how waterproof is this finish, will water rings appear from glass cups if I follow your ratio?

[@lannyhsu708]

Where do you get your d-limonene from? (and what brand)

[@upsidedown1972]

@@lannyhsu708 I order it on Amazon. I forget the brand. It's some kind of food grade stuff. They actually sell it as a dietary supplement. Although, I'm not sure I would eat it.

[@eedom69]

How long do you wait between coats of 75/25? I've got the dlimonene and was thinking 50/50.

[@saraembry1816]

This was so helpful. Only regret is I didn't see it BEFORE I started my project. Now I know for future projects!

[@J_to_the_F]

absolut gem of a chanel. I made a jointer´s apprenticeship in Germany wich takes 3 years and you spend 10% of the time in a special school for jointers. I think a week in your workshop could give more information than my time in school. you know what you´re doing and for educaton even more important: you know how to transfer the knowledge. This way of deciding free of any ideas or images about super ultimate products and just focusing on what is, what you need and deciding from there has allways been my way of learning.

[@unicornlap]

I have a cutting board I need to restore and I have been trying to research tung oil for over 2 hours and it literally took me that long to find your video. THANK YOU!!!! The wood whisperer turned me on to tung oil being the best finish for my purposes so down the rabbit hole I went and the amount of misinformation, or I guess you're right "variety" of information...lol, is absolutely INSANE!!!! I'm so so so glad I found your video!! Thanks again!!

[@seattlesix]

Pure tung oil should be used for food grade projects like cutting boards, while blends combine durability with overall less maintenance to keep the same appearance on items that aren’t normally in contact with food. The implication that your getting something less only adds to the confusion.

[@Tootsie55]

I use mineral oil for cutting boards.

[@CMDPromptify]

I'm deep in a late-night relaxing woodworker KZbin binge and this is some primo ish.

[@mudpad]

Thanks for clearing up some of my confusion about penetrating oil finishes. I have use Old Masters Tung oil and Varnish on several walnut projects and have been very pleased with the results achieved with multiple coats in a short period of time (days instead of weeks) I have been looking around to see if I can find how much actual tung oil is in this product, but seems to be a secret! I just found your channel a few weedskago and have been impressed with the quality of the videos and your knowledge of the subjects. Keep em comin!

[@joshuabray37]

Thanks for this! This helps a lot. I’ve tried several brands (Old Masters, Minwax, Rockler). Each one has been very different. Some are thick, runny, clear, amber. Some dry in a few hours, some take days… Now I know why.

[@davidpowell5437]

I've watched this 2 years after first showing. I've seen several of your videos over the last few years and found them good, but this is the one that gets you my subscription. I can't imagine a clearer way through the fog of advertising - Debunking Rules!

[@whelan2746]

Last year I finished two new walnut Garand rifle stocks, one in pure tung, the other in raw flaxseed oil (food grade linseed oil). These were not my first finishes in these oils so I had the benefit of prior experience. Both were built up to a very high gloss, but it took many coats. For the tung it was 14, for the flax it was more than one hundred. I like the flax better but it is certainly a lot more work. For the tung I recommend thinning the first several applications with mineral oil; the flax does not need thinning. The flax finish is a very forgiving process, but it's possible to ruin tung by not allowing complete drying between coats which can cause it to turn white. When that happens the only solution is to strip everything off and start again. Since both of these oils are natural nut oils you simply rub them in by hand - no gloves or brushes needed, and clean up is simple.

[@kencoleman7762]

You explained it well enough that I don't think I need to use tung oil. There are so many excellent finishes which result in great beauty that seem to me much simpler to apply.

[@n8sot]

Hey Ken......can you give me some examples?????? For gun stocks..... Ive always used tung oil......but found it can get tacky after holding on to it for a while. Kinda a newb here.... but been around for a while!!! Any info you have would be greatly appreciated!!!! Thanks!!!

[@kencoleman7762]

@@n8sot Brian, I am hardly an expert in finishing but I often use polyurethane, Danish Oil or boiled linseed oil. I haven't finished a stock. It is very satisfying to hand rub a smooth hardwood finish.. Good luck.

[@n8sot]

@@kencoleman7762 Thanks Ken!! Ive learned....the more you hand rub....the warmer it gets... and the better the penetration. Thanks for verifying!!!

[@markmaddison5312]

@@n8sot sounds to me you're confusing carpentry with sex

[@AlbertNoffsinger]

I always enjoy the finish videos, clears up so much confusion for me and helps me pick the right finish for the job/project I need to get done. Thank you for this video.

[@khartoumist1031]

This is an *incredibly* helpful video. I always wondered why I had SO much trouble finding clear, consistent instructions on tung oil application. And this explains it perfectly.

[@monicaeberz3356]

Thank you so much for this video. I am about to finish walnut butcher block countertops and it's my first time ever trying to put a finish on anything ever. Very intimidating. All the contradictory information *is* so confusing! (wait 15 minutes to reapply or wait days; use 150 grit sandpaper, use 400, use steel wool, use citrus solvent to thin , use mineral oil, use pure tung oil only; always use 50/50, use 70/30 to start with, then go 50/50, then finish up with a pure tung oil coat. Yikes! Understanding the why and the pros and cons in a non-judgemental way rather than, this is the "best" or "right" way to do it is SO helpful. Thank you so much!

[@McThumpenstein]

Why would somebody downvote this? Seriously,, this is valuable content. I learned a ton just from this one video. I don't understand people sometimes.

[@joeltower5964]

Maybe they weren't really listening or didn't quite hear what they needed? Good question tho. I really got alot from it too.

[@johnbesharian9965]

I suppose the same rule applies to those who post their likes or dislikes on internet videos as it does to "The first rule of Retail Sales: 'All customers bring pleasure - some by coming, some by going'.".

[@CheveeDodd]

I was taught that air movement helped natural finishes cure faster and so I always leave a fan running in my finishing area. Any thoughts on that?

[@jimk4267]

Right on...an oxygen molecule needs to interact with the oil or solvent. The more that touch the faster it will go off

[@walterw2]

maybe it's more of a lacquer thing (and i really dunno either way) but it's been suggested that blowing air across can cause an outer "skin" to form before the stuff underneath cures, maybe blocking the stuff underneath from curing

[@jimk4267]

@@walterw2 I am suggesting air movement. ie...a fan or open window circulating the air around the piece. With oil that's why you must wipe the surface. And remove the excess. If applied too heavy the deeper layers will oxidize eventually, however the surface may wrinkle. That's the skin you are referring to. The same will happen with an enamel. With lacquer you can blow all the air you want directly at the piece to flash it (get it out of dust). Then let the remaining solvent leave the film. A catalyzed lacquer will cure, somewhat. A non-catalyzed lacquer never cures. It will always be reversible. With any finish always remember..."thin to win". A thin controlled coat, will always out perform a thick heavy coat.

[@CheveeDodd]

@@walterw2 interesting. Thanks for the info!

[@markb8954]

Problem with running a fan in your “finishing” room is that the fan is now circulating/blowing about all kinds of fine dust particles right back onto your just finished piece. As the piece drys all of these invisible particles can easily create a rough surface. I would suggest to apply finishes in a nice warm location. Minimize dust.

[@countrywoodproducts]

I am experimenting with a whole mess of various finishes for different projects over the past months. Your videos are on top of the search results most of the time. They are very helpful.

[@caramiasmullen9892]

This is an excellent, informative instructional video ever!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you so much! I have some frames I need to finish and I would like to use the natural Tung Oil. My husband used it on an antique desk that came through my family...More of a library table type.... It is a beautiful job and still looks gorgeous to this day 30 years later. His attention to detail and his patients with finishing this desk absolutely paid off. My children will have it for years to come. I love it and I love the finish. I want to do my frames, I just hope I can do it and not mess it up. I do not need to be in a hurry. So I will be watching this information to get it down and hope and pray I can bring the frames to as gorgeous finish as Stumpy Nubs is training and I hope I can make it look like the desk my husband finished. AGAIN... THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! You are the first that I have ever found(and I am old) that can give information explained in such a way that I can trust and have faith in. Wish me luck if you will?!?!?!

[@ThomCat316]

Several years ago I needed a shift knob for my Dakota. I turned one up from glued-up walnut and cherry. It was finished in seven or eight coats of pure tung oil, with the first couple coats getting thinned 50%, then 25% with citrus oil. The finish has never been updated or maintained, other than occasional cleaning. It's still doing fine, with daily use and wear.

[@donventura3844]

The constant handling also acts like a burnishing process that will polish the soaked in polymerized oil. I usually put wax over tung oil after a 30 day cure

[@wolflahti412]

I remember a can labeled "tung oil finish" that had zero tung oil in it. Very much like Sara Lee's "lite" desserts, which actually had *more* calories than the regular version; the corporate rep said that "lite" referred to the texture of the product.

[@daviddura1172]

same thing goes for THIN MINTS, ate a pack and didn't get s bit thinner.....

[@falxonPSN]

Wow. Lite foods with more calories. Shaking my head at that one.

[@xs10tl1]

my first attempt was with similar garbage, looked awful and I stripped it all off and started over. if not for YT I probably never would have learned the difference. Now I'm a believer, and every 3 months it's easy to hit all the pieces with a pad. nothing else.

[@hoilst]

"Lite" = "We replaced a bunch of the fat with a bunch of sugar".

[@joeltower5964]

HORSE PUCKY!! HOW 'BOUT SOME SNAKE OIL!!

[@stevenslater2669]

Thanks for the clarification. I used the “tung oil” that came with a Formby’s refinishing kit on 1/4 round toe molding I installed when I re-did a living room, dining room, new family room and entrance foyer. (A lot of toe molding!) The amber color was a perfect highlight to the tile & carpet we (she) selected. I applied 4 or 5 coats, assembly line style, to the new trim before cutting and fitting it. After install, it was easy to touch up any raw edges. The finish dried hard & took very little maintenance. And scuffs & scrapes were easy to touch up & blend. Now I know that if I had used pure tung oil, I would have had a mess on my hands!

[@The-Real-Ando]

Hey Steven is toe moulding what I would call skirting board, it goes round the inside of your walls at floor level? One more question do you need to keep applying it after installation? Thanks.

[@malcolmj7670]

Hi Stumpy, I bought a tin of tung oil a few years ago when I was wood-turning porridge spurtles. I’m and inexperienced 74-year old amateur but someone told me it was “food safe”. THANK YOU for explaining… I will now have to dig out the tin to find out if it was pure or if I may have poisoned some wedding guests (given the spurtles as gifts! Nobody seems to have died yet but I am now very annoyed that, like many others, I may have been misled. Your calm manner and clear explanations make you an excellent teacher. THANK YOU. Malcolm, Scotland.

[@jefffuhr2393]

Hello from Texas, USA Mr. Malcolm. Hope you are creating and receiving joy from your woodworking experiences! Keep sharing! God bless.

[@Karl-LLehmann]

I’m in the process of giving a refinished Les Paul a Tung Oil finish. I used Tung Oil on quite a few necks already. It’s the first time I’m using it on a whole body. Your video helped me a lot, in regards to being patient with adding new coats. Really appreciate your explanations! Best wishes from Germany :)

[@criswilson1140]

I love pure tung oil, but I have had to wait over a week for it to dry before. It was worth the wait.

[@franknecaise2047]

Timely for me. I just finished using Tung Oil for a small maple and walnut wood project of mine. Only went with 2 coats of min max tung oil, will try more next time. Thanks for a very informative discussion.

[@dannyo3317]

Frank Necause: Evidently, you didn't watch the video, or you watched the video and didn't understand. Minwax sells "Tung Oil Finish". It isn't Tung Oil. Now go back and watch the video.

[@LulzWuts]

I've done a 100% pure tung oil finish on my rifle stock and my spade shovel handle... Trust me, it'll take a bit but since I live in the South the heat helps and dries about 5~7ish days. 5 coats seems to be quite perfect for durability and some water proofing qualities. Looks lovely too. Would recommend a 50/50 mixture of pure tung oil and Citrus solvent or turpentine depending what you have for quicker drying.

[@richtyler1353]

Great information. I was a bricklayer and stone mason for 30 years. We use wood levels. I always used A blended ting oil to keep my levels protected. Most mason’s use boil linseed oil. I always preferred ting nut oil just because it actually comes from a tree nut a weed

[@samcole2381]

I been using tung oil all my life.I use two coats pure tung oil and then a coat of Johnson’s paste wax then buff.Beautiful finish!

[@williamlyles3802]

Thanks James, as always, well presented and informative. I used the same Wood River Tung oil a couple of weeks ago for the first time, it took only three days to dry, at least I considered it dry since my sand paper didn't clog up. I really like it now. Thanks again for some useful insight into another confusing finish. Hope you are doing well.

[@sergiumacavei]

Great video man! Felt the need to congratulate you on how articulate you were with the explanations. Glad to see people like you, who like spending more time to get things done properly, get their appreciation. Like you said, the latter are more than the former, but still, people who have the patience to go all the way through a process are still around. We just have to look. Plus, the ones who are in a rush are probably secretly jealous on the patient ones...haha. thanks and cheers!

[@ecannon649]

Great job explaining this. I am considering using Tung oil blend on my old wooden truck bed, this looks like a good choice for a wood bed that needs protection that will be used from time to time.

[@dherman0001]

Tung oil does poorly outdoors compared to other oils, stains and finishes. I've got lots of experience with it. Unless you're keeping your truck garaged and rarely drive it, you'll be refinishing every year or every 6 months.

[@dherman0001]

It does look great and natural but I've long since stopped using it for outdoor applications. Personally I'd use a stain of your choice and some decent polyurethane. Avoid pigmented poly as it hides the natural wood grain.

[@tomnotebaart9086]

I love your videos! You are the best on KZbin, presenting the information in a very concise and precise manner. I just finished a cedar stacked herbal planter with 100% pure tung oil (at least that what the bottle says - now I'm not so sure). It looks great, my wife didn't want to put dirt in it as it was too beautiful. But she did it anyways. Love your sense of humor!

[@bahtiarzulham]

i usually wait my mixed 50:50 tung oil & thinner at least 3 days before i apply more coats. i use mixed 50:50 for the first, second and third coats, using mixed tung oil with thinner can penetrate deeper into the pores. the 4th and 5th coat i apply natural without any solvent, light sanding in between. and after the last coat perfectly cured, i love to apply beeswax for more surface protection

[@doingityourself1336]

Perfect timing for an upcoming project. I'd like to see more videos from you about other natural finishes, cheers!

[@Carp4125]

Another great video. It seems like every video you make is better than the last and all of them filled with great information. Keep em rolling Stumpy.

[@umvhu]

The oldest document mentioning Tung oil is dated around 2600 BC from China and talks of it used in ship building sealing the hull, they say 2 to 6 weeks to cure depending on the weather.

[@Dr.Pepperdave]

Facts!

[@Christa-tl8jb]

Interesting

[@DesertDog8989]

I've watched three of your vids already today; you are a clear and concise communicator, which I admire and appreciate.

[@rachelmarie8275]

You were wonderful articulate and went right into everything I was wondering about. You explained things clearly and your demonstration helped me understand what I need to do. Thank you!

[@fc872e1]

Great video, thank you. Simple rule of thumb to know if the tung oil is ready for the next coat: run your fingertips perpendicular to the grain. If you encounter any resistance, you need to wait. If your fingertips easily glide across the grain, you can apply another coat. As you mentioned, tung oil doesn’t actually “dry” like many other finishes. Rather, it reacts with oxygen to cure, as part of a chemical reaction. I found it takes 1-3 days before another coat of tung oil can be applied. That’s right, it’s difficult if not impossible for a professional to afford that as they need to turn work over much more rapidly. Tung oil is a beautiful finish in that it does not hide the grain and allows the wood to show through. It offers excellent service in that unlike finishes like polyurethane or acrylic, it can be spot repaired as opposed to needing to be completely sanded before refinishing

[@bluewanderer9903]

"Raise the grain with damp cloth first" didnt know this, thank you 🙏👍

[@kristenstack3912]

Finishing my oak tabletop and this is exactly what I needed to see! Thank you for such a helpful video.

[@XanthusBarnabas]

Thank you sir for the video, and thanks for clarifying the "myths"; hopefuly my two cents reenforce your info. I lived in Damascus, Syria and learned an interesting process of using pure tung oil mixed with turpentine (50/50). I had the honour to befriend a family of woodworkers whose specialty is the famous inlaid walnut; very fine work. They had one young lad whose sole job was finishing. He applied the recipe using a "french polish" type process and waited at least 3-4 days before applying successive coats (sometimes seven days), with at least six/seven coats. So it can take almost two months for the finishing, but the results are phenomenal. I use this process for my own personal furniture, but seldom for clients; as you've said, most are not so patient. I do apologise for my late commenting; but I've just recently found your channel.

[@johnbadal7319]

Excellent points. I own all of these products and have told folks the same thing. I like to use caranuba wax after the month it takes to get a build as wax is quicker to maintain. Every few years or depending on wear I'll strip the wax with mineral spirits and coat with more ting then thin wax coat again. Less is more and you're right that only some oils don't get rancid or eventually form a film. Have you ever colored your wax for use on open and semi open species? Folks love the look of these thin finishes because the porosity of the finished surface lends a natural satin quality. I still use this process on vintage Scandi-modern peices and artisan made heirlooms

[@kandrisa]

I’ve must’ve watched this video 10 times. I have a small coffee table and want to use tung oil. I am going to go for it!

[@jaycook5028]

Restored oak library table with tung oil 45 years ago still in great shape.

[@craign6019]

Tell us jay

[@riffdex]

Did it work well on your table?

[@kandrisa]

@@riffdex I did end up using it. The grain looks better and have a golden/orange hue but I can’t comment on protection level since I don’t use the table heavily! The wood that I used is mulberry slab if that helps.

[@zwigoma2]

I'm just gonna say it, your beautiful.

[@jakeallama22]

I am thinking of making my own tung oil blend for finishing a mahogany guitar body. The recipe I found is 1/3 pure tung oil, 1/3 mineral spirits and 1/3 wipe on poly. would love to hear your thoughts. I'm going for a raw feel that will "relic" well.

[@Rick-the-Swift]

How'd it turn out? I love experimenting with different products, am amazed and humbled quite often👍

[@jakeallama22]

Unfortunately the guitar kit I bought was a total mess and I had to return it so I never got a chance to try it out.

[@Zigg317]

Thanks for this great video, Stumpy. I really appreciate your approach to this video, as I have been experimenting with Pure Tung Oil myself (with Milk Paint Co.'s Pure Tung Oil) on Alaskan Cedar and Pine. I'm sure it depends on the wood, but with pure Tung oil, I've been seeing penetrations of 3/16 to 5/16", which is much more than I would have expected. I don't see myself going much further with it, as you were probably born with more wood knowledge than I have, but I really wanted to thank you for such a good approach to a video and a good video itself.

[@greendrake8864]

Thank you!!!! Refinishing an old Lufkin machinist tool chest. This is just what I needed to determine what direction to go for the finish

[@rollypollyguy3976]

I really liked your approach! We're all using the same key words but different formulas. The confusion posted on the internet is so real. When looking this stuff up I came to the conclusion that every piece of advice will be contradicted by proxy. Solution: be open to discovery and there's nothing to it but to do it. Thanks dude

[@CelestialPopCollectiveOfficial]

You’re such a great teacher. I know I say that on so many videos but it’s just so true and I have to express my appreciation by telling everyone! Your calm demeanor and articulate speech, thorough explanations and demonstrations, your knowledge and understanding of the things you know and the things we need to know. I really hope you win awards for your channel. I really am so very impressed by you. Thank you for every second you spend creating your videos for us. 🫶🏻🇨🇦

[@alden1132]

Have you had any experience in using tung oil, whether pure or blended, in a pressure pot? How about using heat? can you accelerate or augment the reaction or shorten the finish time with dry or steam heat?

[@williamellis8993]

More great info, James. Thanks. It would be interesting to run that piece through a drum sander or light passes on the planer to see exactly how deep the finish goes. Take care. Bill

[@scotttoner9231]

A question, coming in from a different direction, never having been great at wood finishing. In building wooden sea kayaks (cedar and other soft woods), when glassing it is rightfully advised to increase the temp of the room and wood. This is not just for the drying, but opening wood pores for resin penetration and to avoid bubbles. Might this aid in you finishing - not dry time but depth?

[@briansmith6824]

Tung oil cures, it doesn't dry. Exposure to oxygen polymerizes the oil i.e. it turns into a plastic through molecular linkages. The surface you end up with, if it the oil has soaked in well, is a hard, waterproof matrix of plasticized wood that is foodsafe. I mix 1 part oil to 1 part citrus solvent as the first coat on the exterior my bee hives. The second coat, 15 minutes later, is 3 parts oil to 1 part solvent. 4 or 5 days later it is cured enough to put bees in. The SYP looks natural but doesn't rot or mold and stands up to lots of scraping. Much better than any paint. I don't understand the several day wait between coats. It is like soaking a sponge in water, freezing it, and then trying to put more water on. Maybe it will smooth the surface a bit but not much penetrates after the first coat.

[@RolandsDad]

Very well put and demonstrated. I appreciate the simplicity in describing it. The breakdown of methods versus confusion was genius. I think that will simplify things for me far easier than typical "rule of thumb". The sandpaper test is also a bog standard for me.

[@ricardofernandes4567]

Wow this is the first time I really watched the whole vedio because you explained the whole process so well that even a beginner or even a layman can understand. Thanks.. for me the confusion of what finish to use to get a natural look is sorted out. I must you really have a fantastic work place. Thanks a ton

[@GunninWizard]

This was a one stop for absolutely everything I needed to know about tung oil

[@jimk4267]

Spot on...the sandpaper full of uncured finish is the point people should really take away from this. No matter what finish they are using. Over reduce first coat of any oil finish to achieve good penetration. Warm place with plenty of air flow will help. But as my wife knows. Once the finishing starts, we are still weeks away

[@mushin111]

"But as my wife knows. Once the finishing starts, we are still weeks away" I know what you meant, but this sounded amusingly like a boost about your legendary tantric stamina.

[@charpackage]

YOU are a genius. If people applied your sort of rational thinking to everything, there would be more harmony in the world.

[@harrysachs2274]

And far less communists/socialists.

[@BasBleu02]

Thank you for this exceptionally informative lesson. I have a couple of unfinished end-grain cutting boards and dough bowls I'll be giving as gifts and want to apply a water-resistant and food-safe finish. You've headed me in the right direction and I now feel confident in my choice of tung oil (mixed with citrus solvent) and the technique you've demonstrated. Thank you for dispelling all the misinformation and providing useful instruction and demonstration. I'm grateful.

[@billkirchner4495]

My wife applied tung oil to a cheap old table and chairs that we bought over 40+ years ago. About a month later, she applied the second coat - and - about a year later she added the third and final coat. We still have that table and chair set, but - it sits in the basement now. I just looked at it with a more critical eye after seeing this video. The finish is still in GREAT condition. There are two small gouges in the finish (kids) - but other than that, the tung oil held up amazingly well over all that time.

[@Rwenzowil]

I, mostly never, write a comment on a video but now I do. This couldn't be said better by anyone, ever. Respect for your guidance to anyone who's interested in woodworking. You sir, are a walking encyclopedia and a must see for all out there who are in need of debunking the many theories

[@MichaelCoolidge]

Loved it. I like these deep dives into subjects that require it.

[@andresejensen]

I have a huge log cabin and I've used various finishes on the inside - Tung oil was by far the nicest to do and still looks the best. Tung for the win. Great video!

[@Jeff-mv4yy]

I have been messing with tung oil finish on desert ironwood for years trying to get a decent finish. The wood is oily in the first place and by chance, I finally went with 2/3 minerl spirits and 1/3 tung oil (minwax) I let it dry under a heat lamp for 3 minutes, buffed with wet dry sandpaper with more oil mix , wiped off and let dry. Waited 1 to 2 days betwen applications and finally got the look I wanted after 6 coats. Thaanks for the video. I was going crazy with this. None of the instructions from alledged experts worked for me... or they left out a proprietary step anlong the way like sanding in between. In the case of desert ironwood, very fine wet sandpaper was used and then buffed dry after each initial coat went under the headlamp.

[@tommybarrow5849]

Very informative, thanks. I applied 50/50 pure tung and D-limonene to some walnut tables. Recoated the next day and it won’t dry. After a month it still clouds when scratched. Turns out my redcoat was just adding to the first coat.

[@RatedRWoodturning]

I'd love to send you a same of my homemade finish "Tung Wax" I sell it on my etsy, mostly for turning but I use it on my flat work when a food safe finish is needed. I use only pure tung oil, beeswax, and carnauba wax. 👍

[@MykelObvious]

Post a linky... I'd love to try it out!!

[@RatedRWoodturning]

@@MykelObvious lol its bad enough this is borderline self promotion on someone elses video, I wouldn't feel right goin quite that far. But if you want to swing by my channel, you can see some videos on it and always a link in the description 👍

[@randomlyselecteduser]

This was very interesting. A certain guitar company offers a tung oil finish on the back of their necks to provide less drag when moving up and down the neck (as apposed to a poly or nitro finish). I wonder what they're actually using now. I'll assume, since the setting time is so long, and the need to re-apply so often, that they're using a "watered down" variety. I might have to shoot them an email. Thank you for the info! 😊

[@hazembata]

I now use Osmo as my default finish. The oil-wax combo looks and feels really nice. I imagine Tung oil with a coat of wax over it would give similar results, but who knows.

[@sammeandro3996]

I use polymerized tung oil sealer initially then one or two coats of high lustre tung oil. I use the Beall Buffing system afterwards, sometimes skipping the Tripoli and straight to the white diamond wheel and/or carnauba wax. Leaves a nice finish. I like OSMO as well on my boards..much better and more reliable than mineral oil...it is not a drying oil. Have to try it on a bowl ...

[@j.pendergrass9805]

Gotta say its nice seeing the educated opinion of someone behind the counter, and decades of unbiased experience is like gold in the hands. Thanks. 👍

[@jeffreysokal7264]

I used Minx Tung Oil on my horribly weathered 35 year old wooden window frames and it seems to work quite well. I clean the surfaces, apply a coat, apply more as it soaks into spots and then wait a day to apply a second coat. The finish lasts several years and then requires only a quick rag applied coat which maintains gloss for a couple more years.