APRIL WRAP UP

[@KDbooks]

Is this Kiran? My favourite booktuber?

[@kiranreader]

you betcha!!! lol

[@BrixHouseBooks]

I just read a few other books on North Korea so I’m so intrigued by The Sister! Yeonmi Park’s books are great reads on the topic.

[@kiranreader]

ohh! amazing ty i'll check out park's books :)

[@thelefthandedreader6632]

The Humble Pocket. I love it!! I HAVE to have a dress with pockets. And yeah, pockets were a masculine aspect. This is SO interesting! The first kind of formal dress I ever had , from Anthropologie, that had pockets made me feel so much different than without pockets, you know?

[@kiranreader]

pockets are invaluable!! we need more pockets!

[@TomBrzezicki]

Your comments on the book, “Pockets: An Intimate History of How We Keep Things Close”, caught my attention, specifically with regard to the origins of the three-piece suit for men, which the author, Hannah Carlson, attributes to the fashions of the Turks and Persians. Not that I’m any sort of expert on the history of fashion, but it’s always been my understanding that the present-day three-piece suit can be traced back to European costume of the 1650s to 1660s. By that time, you had the basic men’s ensemble of the shirt, the breeches with stockings, the waistcoat, and the knee-length coat with wide cuffs. From the latter 17th though the 18th century, men’s shirts remained about the same, but knee-breeches became more form-fitting, and the waistcoat likewise fit more snugly. The coat became less full-fitting with narrower sleeves and turnback cuffs that grew smaller and eventually disappeared. There’s a KZbin video that demonstrates how the typical 18th gentleman of fashion would get up and get dressed in the morning. There’s no mention of any Turkish or Persian influence in men’s apparel of the time, though the narrator of the video did say that the loose-fitting ankle length nightshirt that gentlemen wore to bed was called a banyan and modelled after an Indian design, while the voluminous garment called a wrapper that was put on over the banyan upon getting out of bed was adapted from the Japanese kimono. As far as pockets are concerned, both the breeches and the waistcoat had pockets on either side, though they appear rather small and shallow. Looking through one of my elder daughter’s books on the history of fashion (“Fashion: The Definitive History of Costume and Style”, published by the Smithsonian Institute), I find a brief account of Beau Brummell and his role in dictating men’s fashion in England during the early 19th century. It was Brummell who swept aside the frills and fussiness of 18th century men’s clothing “in favor of somber-colored, elegant restraint.” Thus, we arrived at the standard men’s uniform of white shirt; fitted, pale-coloured waistcoat; black or dark blue short-fronted, double-breasted, swallow-tailed woolen coat; light-coloured pantaloon pants or stirrup trousers in place of knee-breeches; topped off with a flowing white cravat. “This type of outfit had become standard by the 1820s and 30s, and what Brummell popularized with his pants-jacket-flamboyant neckwear combination was none other than the original modern suit and tie.” I sometimes wonder what ever possessed men to abandon the high collar and neckcloth fashionably tied around the throat from the Regency era. The cravat covered up a host of blemishes such as lines, wrinkles, age-spots, wens, wattles, and supernumerary chins. If you ever watch any of John Wayne’s later westerns, you’ll notice that he always wears a bandana tied around his neck and tucked close under his chin for exactly this purpose. But getting back to men’s fashions and an Eastern connection to their design, I remember from reading the diary of Samuel Pepys last year that, in October of 1666, King Charles II of England “declared his resolution of setting a fashion for clothes, which he will never alter. It will be a vest … to teach the nobility thrift”. The King’s intent seems to have been to discourage the upper classes from squandering money on following the latest fashions from France by establishing a type of unchanging, standard uniform for wear at court and other occasions. Pepys later wrote on October 15th, “This day the King begins to put on his vest … being a long cassocke close to the body, of black cloth, and pinked with white silke under it, and a coat over it, and the legs ruffled with black riband like a pigeon’s leg; and upon the whole, I wish the King may keep it, for it is a very fine and handsome garment.” Other observers noted that the vest or cassock was long enough to reach “the calf of the leg.” I seem to recall reading elsewhere that the King hoped to stimulate England’s textile manufactures by promoting a fashionable garment with so much extra material in it. Pepys doesn’t mention any foreign influence on the design of the King’s vest, but one of his contemporaries, John Evelyn, was at court on October 18, 1666, and described the scene in his journal as follows: “It being the first time his Majesty put himself solemnly into the Eastern fashion of vest, changing doublet, stiff collar, bands and cloak, into a comely dress, after the Persian mode … resolving never to alter it, and to leave the French mode, which had hitherto obtained to our great expense and reproach”. Evelyn goes on to say that he had previously given the King a copy of a pamphlet he had written, entitled, “Tyrannus, or The Mode”, in which he had condemned the slavish practice of trying to keep up with the everchanging fashions from France, and instead had advocated for “the comeliness and usefulness of the Persian clothing”. By “usefulness”, perhaps Evelyn was referring to pockets. I found a reproduction copy of this pamphlet online, but parts of it were so smudged as to be illegible. In the pages I could read, I found no mention of Persian clothing, though that doesn’t mean the information isn’t there. Apparently, the King’s new fashion was soon out of style at court. Louis XIV scoffed at Charles’ attempt to set himself up as an arbiter of fashion, and ordered that only his servants were to wear the King of England’s new-style vests. Evelyn later recorded of the King’s new fashion: “It was a comely and manly habit, too good to hold, it being impossible for us in good earnest to leave the Monsieurs’ vanities long.” If I want to know more about Eastern influences on 17th century men’s clothing, I’ll just have to keep a lookout for Ms. Carlson’s book at my local bookstores.

[@kiranreader]

Thank you for sharing this Tom!! Very thorough! I’m going to have to see if my library has a copy of Fashion: The Definitive History of Costume and Style. You bring up a good point, the cravat needs a revival! It’s so interesting you have a quote from John Evelyn from Oct 18, 1666. In my notes from the book I wrote: “Oct 15, 1666 - the suit has arrived.” Lol I also had another notation where someone described King Charles’ new attire as “stately, reserved, and manlike.” It’s very interesting to see how the King tried to rule through fashion. I received a suggestion to check out: “Dress Codes: How the Laws of Fashion Made History.” And think that might be a helpful book to consider the ways the fashion can be used to influence politics.

[@TomBrzezicki]

@@kiranreader Thanks, Kiran, for your kind words! Yes, during the late Middle Ages and the Renaissance period, many European countries tried to enforce Sumptuary Laws to prevent lower class people with money from dressing richly and passing themselves off as aristocracy. The laws were always difficult to enforce, however, and I seem to recall reading once that, in England at least, one of the factors that undermined them was the Elizabethan theatre. The noble men and women around Queen Elizabeth’s court loved a good play, and so would donate their surplus and no-longer-quite-fashionable gowns, doublets, robes, and other finery to the London theatre companies. Seeing the son of an illiterate glovemaker from Stratford-upon-Avon, William Shakespeare, strutting about the stage wearing the duke of so-and-so’s cast-offs only brought home the message that clothes made the man. Which reminds me of an incident from Samuel Pepys’ diary. He records having an appointment with King Charles’ brother James, the Duke of York, to discuss naval matters one day. Pepys arrived at court and was ushered into the Duke’s chambers, only to find that he was still getting dressed. Pepys observed that, standing there in his nightshirt, James was “just another man.” If you’re interested in men’s fashion from the Regency period, I would recommend the big, fat-500+ pages-biography of Beau Brummell by Ian Kelly titled, “Beau Brummell: The Ultimate Dandy” published in 2005. Kelly describes how the cravat was eventually replaced by the necktie, which grew in length over the years, “in a manner usually understood as phallic.” Which may partially explain why Trump wears those long red ties; I’ve read that he also thinks long ties have a slimming effect.

[@Lokster71]

I want to read Shogun. I find that period of Japanese history fascinating. That blue looks really good on you btw.

[@kiranreader]

thank you! yes i agree! this time in japan in FASCINATING!!

[@NerdyNurseReads]

first, love the shirt. second, a whole book about pockets???? You've intrigued me... third, I do love a sword

[@kiranreader]

ty ty!! right!!!!! who doesn't love a sword!

[@BookTimeWithRyan]

The geisha concept is hit on in the book. (Separating the art of sex and performance.) It made me want to look into samurai of other cultures (including India). Pilots are basically expert navigators. They’re still used today but more for difficult areas or ports. The whole honor thing is really interesting… because you get to see how many layers there are and how deep (or not deep) honor goes. The whole 3 hearts… Interesting point in Clavell’s life… he was a POW in Japan.

[@kiranreader]

i def think shogun has inspired my desire to read more about ancient japan!! its just such a fascinating time and the commitment to honor is admirable

[@MallardMakes]

Re: literature about North Korea, I haven’t read it yet but it’s been on my TBR for a while now: “Without You, There is No Us: My Time with the Sons of North Korea’s Elite” by Suki Kim From what I remember it’s this woman’s experience working at a North Korean boys school for the sons of North Korean elite. I listened to the author discuss it on a book podcast and it sounded incredibly intriguing! I can’t make it an official rec since I haven’t had the chance to read it yet, but it could be worth checking out for you.

[@kiranreader]

thank you for sharing this!! this sounds like a very interesting read!!

[@catagoryfive1631]

Recommendations: Escape from Camp 14: One Man’s Remarkable Odyssey from North Korea to Freedom in the West by Blaine Harden Nothing to Envy: Ordinary Lives in North Korea by Barbara Demick Never knew just how brutal life in NK was/is until I read these books.

[@kiranreader]

thank you for sharing both of these!! i've added them both to my list

[@ReadingIDEAS.-uz9xk]

Read Shogun three times. Great book. Some of James Clavell's other books are good too, Noble House, Tai-Pan and King Rat. Best wishes.

[@kiranreader]

oh wow!! ok maybe i def need to read pt 2 before i make a final judgement on the book!

[@PoppyMorreale]

shogun is huge and i want to read it

[@kiranreader]

it IS big!! but you can do it! would love to hear your thoughts if you read it!!

[@brynperry3740]

The shirt is deeply cool

[@kiranreader]

thank you!! 💖

[@Shelf_Improvement]

Who knew we give N Korea money?! Insane.

[@kiranreader]

right!!!

[@PoppyMorreale]

also i have said how stupid it is how not all pants have pockets

[@kiranreader]

right!!! like! we have THINGS to carry!!!

[@FrankOdonnell-ej3hd]

didn't know there were so many issues around pockets or that there was a time when there were none also it wouldn't make any difference if the people in NK knew all three secrets the government would still have all the guns⚛😀

[@kiranreader]

very true!! ty for watching!

[@BookTimeWithRyan]

Hiyooooooo I got mentioned!

[@kiranreader]

😊😊

[@ReadBecca]

Keying off the pocket book, you should definitely check out Dress Codes: How the laws of fashion made history. Loads of similar really interesting info about the history of clothes, and how much dress has been used to endorse class, race, and gender power dynamics!

[@kiranreader]

i have not heard of this book before!!! but this sounds exactly up my alley, ty!!